Man really is building a motor behind his desk...inside...clean and comfy.....me currently crying about 40f and rain laying on old covered gravel and oil satuated cardboard pieces
My old man was a master at building sbc’s for dirt racing when i was a kid. His most impressive build was a 400 that he stroked to a 413, 0 decked the block, ported and polished a high dollar set of heads, a real mean cam and the thing dynoed around 700 horse. All with a 4 barrel naturally aspirated
@@gastonneal3761 have you ever heard of the super late model racing class? Those cars are pushing over 900 hp out of N/A sbc’s and sbf’s. NASCAR’s engines also made 950 horse up until the early 2000’s when they governed them down to about 700. Those are also naturally aspirated small block Chevys
What a absolute gift to get to watch him in action. A true genius. He wasn't even breaking a sweat on this little small block build. To have just half of his knowledge, HALF!
The 400 is a beast at heart, 200cc ports, decent compression, not even that big a cam, a big carb and bam the thing knocks out 550 horse ! even sounds like a big block ! what's not to love !
i had the same short block with a .700 crane roller afr 210 heads and 2 Holley 750 on a Holley tunnel ram in my 55 chevy pro street car. it was a blast to drive.
My 2000 SS Camero has a built LS6 with 550 hp.Speed engineering stainless headers with 3 inch Borla exhaust,big Comp cam,Trick flow heads with Brian Tooley pushrods and 102 Fast intake and 102 Fast throttle body.She sounds so damn good!!!
"Best of all, it uses no exotic parts and can be easily duplicated thanks to smart part selection." Everything is easily duplicated if you have enough money.
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 13 degree heads, custom headers, custom carb, crank trigger, timing belt drive, jesel shaft rockers, and vacuum pump. That's stuff is exotic, the stuff they used is just expensive.
some will argue the way he puts the piston rings on can bend or otherwise cause issues, and they should be spread apart and slid over. I'd suggest it's easier to drop the camshaft in before the crankshaft, with the block sitting on its bellhousing and letting gravity help out. You can reach in and grease up the camshaft while you're there, so everything stays inside the block. but, great video and good point about using the grease on the crank mains to show how the bearings are doing before buttoning it all up.
Darrell Coy yah thats what i thought this is absurd and unreasonable as well as kind of shaming towards ACTUAL budget/ easy builds lol... i turned it off at dart block 😂
What's really bad is for a few hundred bucks I can feed my 8.4:1 slant six a 300 shot (i have very little ring left) and outrun that chebby for 1/10 the money you guys have into it. Maybe only once but I'd actually be going fast for cheap
You can build a 535hp/535tq 400 cid with a factory block, flat top pistons, 6.0” rods, Good head 195-200cc runner 62-64cc heads and a Factory oem GM #140 1st off road mechanical cam w/ 1.60 rockers. 91-93 octane pump gas. Way more affordable.
That was a nice build actually. After seeing the results I'm so impressed with it I wonder what this motor might make with an old school solid lifter flat tappet camshaft. Love the roller hydraulic but if using hydraulic roller perhaps I'd have used an OEM style aftermarket performance lifter to save the weight of the tie bar and about $500 lol. To me one of the advantages of those Dart blocks is the ability to use OEM style rollers.
Nice little look. Little expensive for a tight budget. I have found that first place in a rebuilding sleeper motor is breathing. Starting with a good set of big valve closed chamber heads. Ported by hand. Polished. Make sure they fit the gasket on both intake and exhaust. A good manifold. I like the torker. Carb sitting a little off square. I also recommend a double pump. Dual feed. 850 cfm holly. 556/ split duration cam shaft. Anti pump up lifters. Chrome rings. A-large set of tuned headers. And I stand by this. Use the biggest exhaust pipe you can. I prefer 3” O.D If you have an automatic. You are going to have to install a stall speed torque converter. And a little aviation fuel never hurts. Just don’t forget to add the marvel mystery oil to the AV Gas. Top end lube a must.
@@HowardJrFordJust saw this .. i know its 4 years ago but what is the best built engine? What ever engine you pic someone else will suggest a differs one..! The small block Chevy is the all around best engine to build and HOT ROD EVER , no matter what excuses you come up with …! It has won more races , been installed in more purpose built race cars , street rods , race boats , off road performance race craft than any other period !!! Get over it …🏁🏁
I did this similiar build in a mopar but with steelies as back in the day mopar aluminum heads were nuts., with a cam motion 567 lift roller set up with a stroker kit. Its a great street motor. Still fighting traction problems
"smart part selection" sums up any build perfectly - figure out what one wants to achieve, and on what fuel, and build for the torque and rpm balance required. What I REALLY like is you guys, and your customer, sticking to the 'old school' SB rather than taking the generic LS/LT crate option that is SO boring!
Well... they may be boring but the engineering of the LS platform is far superior for stress and heat dissipation. In this (excellent) build they just used extremely strong parts to overcome both of those.
With only 195 cc intake runners for 400 cubic inches and .558 lift, I was really surprised to see a pickup of 15 lbft and 26 ponies. Stout engine and well worth the investment.
Next you should do a 496 with 781 heads with 2.190 intake valve. 700 horsepower al day on pump gas with all stock parts plus stroker rotating assembly.
@@JayLupe I have one 454 that needs a sleeve and a 366 top kick block, going to build a couple of coffee tables and sell them, jokes on them cause they are junk, but they will still look awesome
I love Keith and his crew. They are real and do awesome builds. They right up the road from me. They are the only ones I'd go to, and believe me Plenty other builders in Concord NC !
The lesson from this video- AFR makes a damn fine cylinder head. I'm running AFR 195s on my 383 stroker, with a similar hydraulic roller cam and 10:25:1 compression. 1000cfm EFI setup. Runs like a bat out of hell on the street. #AFRFTW
You boys crack me up. Dart block forged stroker crank h beam rods roller cam AFR heads on and on. Literally a engine built totally from aftermarket parts. Easy? Sure, with a unlimited budget and lots of background in engine building + a convenient machine shop oh and a dyno. Easy???? LOL!!!! Come on...
Yes, but it sounds good, and calling those parts everyday and not exotic is stretching it, still a sound build. What about header sizes and collector length and diameter?, not a low cost build.
Built my first engine, almost the same as this one, in my garage at home. Did everything but bore the cylinders myself. Its a SBC, there's more than enough info on internet alone. I cant think of an easier platform to start on.
For everyone complaining about parts price on this motor, build a ground up engine better and cheaper or shut up and let these rich boys enjoy their fun
I'm running nearly this same engine in my 65 Chevelle right now. These engines work better with a performer rpm manifold. You don't need forged parts for 6K rpm people but the roller cam and heads sure help. Not cheap to build but endless torque, perfect drivability with plenty of top end.
I agree with everything you just said. As far as Street performance the Edelbrock RPM air gap will blow their intake away in low end without giving much on top. I was surprised these engine Masters didn't go for it. I suppose they wanted horsepower on top in as bragging rights but sacrificing low in torque for the street is unacceptable since this is a street build.
@@flyhigh6591 that setup changed my TPI L98 from an anemic 80s v8 into a low budget race motor and took away very little low range torque. It can make for a tall setup though, needed a 3" cowl to clear it.
Ring gaps are a little close, by about .001” for pump gas , but for a lighter weight car, that shouldn’t be an issue as long as the top ring height at TDC is beneath the thickness of the deck material in the area of the cylinder that has a cooling jacket, or oil squirters for cooling the pistons.
I had my 400 block specially created out of moon dust that was forged and machined into my motors basic foundation. It was then cryogenically frozen for 16 weeks (in Antartica) at 158.7 degrees below absolute zero before being heat cycled 17+ times....at NASA....and then final machined by an A.I. robot guided laser. My crankshaft was a one off piece that is 15X stronger than stock while weighing in at a mere 12 lbs. The pistons were only $2500 (each) and the ring package are plasma moly unobtanium units....of course. My heads and valve train need to be kept a secret (for now) but with a little creativity and determination, anyone can duplicate my results here.
Nice vid. It's easier to stab in a camshaft when you do it before putting in the rotating assembly (put the block on its bellhousing area and you can slide the camshaft in vertically to avoid nicking the bearings, too). It is interesting that for some of us, "exotic" means aftermarket. Some folks could use all OEM parts with Morraine bearings, others are used to "Trick" race stuff that requires dyno tuning to get it to work with multiple cam grinds that change the ignition timing and intakes with spacers and extended walls for the inside cylinders.
for those who know what they are doing, or watch enough TH-cam videos, its easy enough to put together an engine like that with mostly OEM parts (now that folks are selling them cheap to step up to an LS) and the thing about not hurting the pockets, is that some "cheap" 1,000 hp dyno queen needs a brake system to match, cooling system, suspension, U joints, etc....so it ends up not being so cheap. find a later 1970's car or 1980's car to put this engine into, and you get a power-to-weight ratio that is just right for public roads. Meanwhile Mr. "my Ls makes 1,000 hp" is still in the garage getting it all together on his budget.
The LS platform can run a thousand hp with stock internals, seen it more than once, with a single turbo and two factory fuel pumps and double lines one to each fuel rail with a factory reprogrammed ECM, power can be cheap to make if you don't mind getting picked on for being cheap
The LS is a great design, and it has that Y block since it was originally designed in aluminum. its heads flow well, not just due to port size, but the angle of the valve. Ironically, a Pontiac 350 has a similar valve angle and its large crankcase gives it the same benefit as the Y block--atmosphere inside the crankcase doesn't get compressed as much by the pistons (the new shelby block just puts holes in the main webs). It does have its weaknesses, like any block design--such as four bolts rather than the old five bolts per cylinder, often blamed in the Ford pushrod 5.0 for letting head gaskets blow under too much boost. There are folks who can take a junkyard LS with unknown history, and get it to last at 1,000 hp. and there's a lot who haven't had it last more than a few passes on the bumper. there are folks who can get it to make 1,000 hp in a dyno, but they are running 60 degree inlet temps, a 3 inch exhaust that won't fit under an F body and bends that won't fit under a hood, etc. once that engine is installed in a car, the numbers change. The good thing about the design is its two decades old, so people have figured out what OEM oil pan etc works. but if i had a car with a 305 installed, what's cheaper to get 400 hp out of, a Vortec 350 that bolts in and reuses the 305's linkage and oil pan and serpentine belt and AC setup...or an LS that needs a few more parts to fit, and a throttle by wire gas pedal to work the factory EFI, and.... but again, those who grew up knowing only the LS, have a leg up on getting that swap to work in a car. and as always there are the builders who claim big numbers, yet can't come up with any time slips....:)
A great meat and potatoes build.....watching Keith build is very satisfying as he reinforces all of the tricks and attention to detail I have hined in myself over the years. A well written and narrated video that spares the bullshit and shows how a Gen 1 small block is still a viable option. My only beef is that this is an $9000 engine.......albeit bulletproof. My own 406 uses a stock block and is very similar.....I built it for around $5000......but as the video states, probably no where near as strong.
By the time you source a good LS block, machine it with similar quality pistons and rods. Then buy all the electronics to make it run you have spent 50% more. And still have a fragile LS
That's a nice strong and reliable build, but it's exotic in my view as far as the parts go. Nobody's talking about the cost of the roller cam and lifters and full roller rocker arms. GM used 5.65" con rods, so going to 6" rods adds to the weight and means exotic coated pistons too. It's gotta be nice when you can go to a dance and the chicks don't see the black embedded in your pores and under your nails that you missed. For my Henry J I've started with a dirty two bolt main 400 block which is 155 pounds versus the 175 for a very dirty 4 bolt block, and it's supposed to be stronger. I've got a pair or nice anonymous heads from a California shop' and a new cast crank which combines with a 0.060 bore (checked the cylinders) to give a bit over 412 cubic inches. I hesitated to bore a good block sixty over, but I'm over sixty and with today's synthetic oil (after it's broken in and the rings are well seated) and a rev limiter set at 6500, it should be good for 100,000 miles if not beaten on all the time. I'm debating on filling the block a bit because it is bored so much, though stock trucks always have more than a hundred thousand on them when you find one. Years ago I got to see around Comp Cams so you know I'm going to have them give me a flat tappet hydraulic cam (short track type I think) and use 1.6 Long slot rockers with reinforcing bars to steady things up and setscrews to keep the adjustment from changing. An Edelbrock or Holley dual plane manifold, with a Carter AFB or Edelbrock carb. I'll try to get a new approved balancer for it and I have a steel blow shield/belhousing and a steel and an aluminum flywheel already and a Saginaw 4 speed and a Saginaw 3 speed-overdrive. The dyno will be 1/4 mile long and some of Roger Huntington's formulas should get me the horsepower. A set of aluminum heads, manifold and flywheel is exotic as I can go for now.
I’ve got half the money in my 350 with a higher compression and still no issues. I push 538 to the wheel... stock gm block, stock gm crank, gm forged flat tops, edelbrock performer heads (210 cc before porting), edelbrock air gap intake, .560/.560 comp cam (110 love separation and 274 duration at .50), supporting valve springs, lunati 1.6 rockers. Why spend more money than you need to?
Gotta defend these guys here against all the hate, if you want this kinda power NA, you are NOT going to do it going to your local parts store. Period. So if you think its hard going on Google and buying the parts you need then this is not for you. Also, if you think its supposed to cost 500 dollors for everything, you are dumb. Im building a 383 at the moment, saving every penny i can on ebay and other sources and still ill be lucky if i get it done for less than 4 grand.. Guess what it cost money to do this, dont want to spend the money? Go collect stamps or some shit, this is easy for people with enough will power and want to do it. Personally i found this video very accurate and informational, if you disagree go build a cheap ass Honda!
my honda build isn't cheap lol but ok...neither was the 95 ss impala. or my guys 16 wrx sti. money and time. plain and simple with any build deemed proper. if I jump out there I'll put my ss on you. if that don't work my awd j series 94 2dr accord will clean up any and all challenges. it did as an h series fwd... just saying... got knowledgeable people around me. btw my first build was a sr20 for a 91 se-r. 440 at the wheel 😎🤙
The Horsepower Monster thanks for the heads up. I’ve been in touch with Skip White Performance in Kingsport Tennessee, I think I’ll give with a call to see what he has on offer. Appreciate your help Cheers
My buddy owns Rank Performance and driveline, He built me a 383 small block that made 558.9 hp@ 5700 and 505 tq@ 5000. We dynoed it on an overcast muddy day so it could of made roughly 20 more hp. I am adding a vacuum pump amd its set up for a 400 Big shot. Now i have no time to play with it so going to sell it off.
May I ask, which is better? Small blocks because they are cheaper but can make good power after some mods. Or a big block that has power out the box already?
that said, i don't recommend bolting on a set of aftermarket cylinder heads without pressure checking them first. when you bolt them on and there is a valve guide or hole in the casting leaking coolant, those heads belong to you. plus many replacement heads have horrible valve fitment issues. never assume.
If I heard correctly, this was set up as a 400 block. If that's the case it's worth it to go with the aftermarket block.... I've had friends pick up older 400 blocks and went through quite a few to get a decent one. Once the machining work is done and the mains are splayed you're still using a stock 400 block that may or may not hold at that level. The price difference between this and the dart plus you can use OEM roller parts on the dart block make the decision pretty clear to me. That's just me though. Now if you were going after say a vortec 880 block from the 90s... that's different. Thats a solid dime a dozen block to build from. I've got my build sheet set up for a 400 that'll make 500 or so for about 4k in parts and 2k in misc other pieces and work. I'll be building it myself so that saves some coin. The block is where you want to put your money imo. That's just me....
This man has forgotten more about engines than most will ever know and like Dale Wexler from WTT, he has passed his knowledge and passion down to his kid. I'd love to have this engine with FI in an M80 with a 5spd. (You Southern Boys of a certain age will know what an M80 is.) Or for a total Sleeper, a Wagon of the same platform.
750 cfm to 830 cfm double pumper should not have made that much difference. The 750 needed more jet, or more air jet. The 830 must have had the needed air OR fuel. The 750 cfm carb was not making much restriction at 6000 rpm.
Once the throttle blades are fully open, and the air fuel ratio going into the engine has stabilized, a double pumper carb has no advantage over a single pumper carb. I'm assuming that everything else about the carbs is identical, and that is probably not the case in this test. The increased flow that the 830 cfm carb has over the 750 should not make a huge difference. That is my point. If the 750 has strait boosters, and the 830 has downleg booster, that will add power.
I built the first 383 factory 010 block with 3.75 stroke with 6"rods small basecircle cam block in 1996. Before all these special clearanced h beam rods where available...... its still running 26 years later with 85000 miles..... dynoded 575 hp and 18- 22 mpg with 3 spd th350 and 3.42 gears...... I scraped 2 blocks trying to clearance for the stroke.
557 hp and your getting 18/22 mpg. You must be choking the heck out of that engine to get that good of mpg with that much hp that engine got to be starving for fuel....lol
"No exotic parts" haha this thing is like 10k might as well buy a crate motor for 4k from gm Edit: with warranty* Or a ls3 with 490 hp for 8k from gm for all you people trying to show off their numbers
@@KingJT80 Here's the motor I'm referring to directly from GM :) 490hp 470tq www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19370411.html Edit: Comes with 24 month warranty or 50k miles
Friend of mine is running a 1971 400 sbc, forged internals, vortec heads, a mild cam, victor jr, 800 thunderseries edelbrock, and he pulled 10.37 at the track in a 76 camaro. Not sure how much power its making, but those vortec heads made a huge difference.
This is a fairly expensive SBC build, but it's done right. Just look at what it costs to get this much normally aspirated horsepower, AND that fat torque curve, from some complicated OHC engine. You could, for example, try doing a 6.3L AMG DOHC V8 build. Stock, it makes 469HP and 479 lb/ft. People are asking over $18,000 for USED ones on eBay, just for reference. And, for the same power, you'd have to do some serious mods, like maybe four (count 'em, FOUR) new German aftermarket cams, for example. Possibly rebuild it, too. That costs $57,000 at a dealership, BTW. Let's say the parts and machine work would cost maybe $30,000 for a DIY rebuild. The SBC lives on for very good reasons.
The specs on this motor are less aggressive than the one I just built and mines not 550 horse lol so those AFR heads must be some magic in a box. I’ve heard great things about them.
I have known this gentlemen for most of my career. I knew his brother Randy as well. We were racing against both of them until Randy's death in a plane crash. Just for a little information Randy was chief engine builder for Hendrick Motorsports (Think Jeff Gordon and Jimmie Johnson) while Keith is President of Automotive specialists in Concord. He builds mainly for short track racing competition but make no mistake he and Randy are legendary engine builders. I worked for Dale Earnhardt Inc from 2004 thru the merger with Chip Ganassi to become EGR till 2009 and that's how I know them.
To build this exactly ..on a small block 400..i wonder the cost involved..parts and assembly ..a finished product engine after build is complete .? Sure it isn't inexpensive
With that compression ratio I'd have tossed an F1A on that thing. Otherwise I'd have gone with more compression, a solid roller and bigger heads. This is a really nice build, regardless
Maybe not recut the heads, but you are right. You should at least vacuum check all the valves and seats. That was done here and everything was fine. That's why I mentioned that the heads are like they were right out of the box. Vacuum checked and verified, but nothing has been machined or changed. Thanks for watching.
My dart pro series, the seats were way out of spec. You could tell where he started on the cnc and as you got to the back they were out of concentric .008 or so. I will never buy assembled heads again.
Yeah, and carbs should have the float levels set out of the box. Check the float levels on your carbs before you install them, because they're wrong more often than they're right.
Nice motor. A bit on the conservative side of that block's capability imo. Nothing exotic about it though. Everything is off the shelf. Before you go whining about the price remember that stock 400 blocks are A) rare and B) weak. A regular production 400 block will barely tolerate 400 horsepower before breaking. Totally agree with those saying built an LS instead, but old guys do love their nostalgia.
Very impressive engine and builder. IMO though.. way overkill in parts quality for the power levels of a street driven 32 that might see the drag strip occasionally. Although I'd like to see this same engine w/a bigger cam and EFI.
They did mention several times that this can be built much cheaper. I don’t find the parts list to be that extravagant for their power level honestly except for that block. It is plenty stout for what they need and the only part they could’ve saved a lot of money on and still been okay reliability wise getting something cheaper. Maybe the owner installed a power adder later on or something.
@@ABetterLifeInc The parts list in the longblock are very high quality parts and capable of a 100% power increase. Even the 0.022 ring gaps are big enough to withstand a fair amount of boost. Notice that the power graph displayed starts at 3500? Well how often is that 32 going to be driven at 3,500+ rpms and full throttle? Probably not much. What is far more useful is idle to 5000rpms at part throttle. More power to the guy with the 32... its an absolute gem. It's a very nice engine! Just IMO for a NA 32 something like a gen 4 w/ported heads and new valve train would make the same peak power levels, highly likely more power from idle to 3500, and would last just as long as this build. I guess I'm just cheap. LOL...
I'm building this exact same engine, but with a few budget-friendly changes - - - Gotta use an all-iron 350 that I have, which will save me THOUSANDS. Porting the heads myself the best I can, I have an old Edelbrock dual-plane manifold from back in the day ( doesn't everybody??) Never had a Chevy rod break, as they're all good to seven grand, Got some flat-tops that might still work, I know how to blueprint the oil pump myself, so the big money is going to be the cam, a rebuild kit for one of my 5 Holleys, and gaskets. I'm expecting 400 Horsepower.
That is a FAT TORQUE CURVE... wow... that would be a lot of fun... I had a 302 small block in my 69 Z28 with solid roller and it made 350ft lb at 3000 and it was fun and wasy to drive.
What he suggest for a 87' Chevy Silverado, I've already had the trans built and the rear end swapped to a 396 possi track, haven't swapped the shafts... I want it to be radical and at the same time be able to drive it wherever, on the radical side!!
Great video - always like the mouse , they really run..REALLY wish there was a price for this build. Lots have asked, lots have had a idea. Would be nice to know the cost, know it isn't cheap, but you get what you pay for. Horsepower for bucks. Love the revs. He did smile at the final run.
Man really is building a motor behind his desk...inside...clean and comfy.....me currently crying about 40f and rain laying on old covered gravel and oil satuated cardboard pieces
at least it ain’t 95f and humid asf
@@aceactiv3531 yea. Never have to fix anything when it's 70 and sunny. Either too cold or too hot lol
Nah dude imagine 100f and dry and laying on black top because your dad throw away your cardboard thinking it was trash
That's the only way I know how to do it. I'm so grateful when I do get to work in a shop or use a lift
PONDERIN' RC Don't forget it's always the absolute worse time in the world for it to lay down on you.
My old man was a master at building sbc’s for dirt racing when i was a kid. His most impressive build was a 400 that he stroked to a 413, 0 decked the block, ported and polished a high dollar set of heads, a real mean cam and the thing dynoed around 700 horse. All with a 4 barrel naturally aspirated
You lyin 🤣😂😂, naw I believe thou, until I learn different.
@@gastonneal3761 have you ever heard of the super late model racing class? Those cars are pushing over 900 hp out of N/A sbc’s and sbf’s. NASCAR’s engines also made 950 horse up until the early 2000’s when they governed them down to about 700. Those are also naturally aspirated small block Chevys
@@rustyshackleford1656 those aren't 23 degree engines
@@rustyshackleford1656 yep. With a stroker under them and removing the restrictions they can get over 1000HP N/A
I know you from somewhere 🤔 you had a channel didn't you? Or maybe even kicked it on comment somewhere else.
What a absolute gift to get to watch him in action. A true genius.
He wasn't even breaking a sweat on this little small block build.
To have just half of his knowledge, HALF!
The 400 is a beast at heart, 200cc ports, decent compression, not even that big a cam, a big carb and bam the thing knocks out 550 horse ! even sounds like a big block ! what's not to love !
Lol. The cost of a bare block...
Perfect video to watch on my lunch break.
i had the same short block with a .700 crane roller afr 210 heads and 2 Holley 750 on a Holley tunnel ram in my 55 chevy pro street car. it was a blast to drive.
The 500 plus pounds of torque is the real deal here. This is going to be a crazy fun street motor!
right
Hello John.
Absolutely
That gasket sealer bead tho..damn! Dude is the man
Carburetor definitely made the lines climb, one sweet engine, truly enjoyed the video.......
Watching that guy assemble an engine is like art. I’d love to have that guy in the garage to tell me everything I’m doing wrong.
AFR cylinder heads make it soooo easy to build a streetable high output engine!
I need this engine for my wife's 81 Camaro Z-28.... maybe that would earn it some respect after the 175hp stock 350... lol...
I popped on my subframe connectors np. Made it very firm! No roof cracks at all! Keeps that front end flat on the ground!
Subframe connectors a must! My 89 fbody handles 540 ft lbs
Don't it come with 305
@@arnoldibarra4592 The 350 was available with a 4 speed auto if i remember correctly
My 2000 SS Camero has a built LS6 with 550 hp.Speed engineering stainless headers with 3 inch Borla exhaust,big Comp cam,Trick flow heads with Brian Tooley pushrods and 102 Fast intake and 102 Fast throttle body.She sounds so damn good!!!
"Best of all, it uses no exotic parts and can be easily duplicated thanks to smart part selection." Everything is easily duplicated if you have enough money.
their parts were donated as advertising. hp pumped up.
500 - Dart SHP Block
900 - Molnar crank
600 - Molnar rods
750 - Mahle forged pistons
1600 - AFR 195 cc heads
400 - Crane billet roller cam
320 - Victor Jr intake
300 - MSD distributor
450 - Holley Brawler carb
Machine shop ?
Misc bolts, gaskets, lube, rings, roller lifters, roller rockers, pushrods, billet timing cover, ATI superdamper, valve covers, waterpump, pulleys???????
Easy... With no "exotic" parts.
Easy build... hand $7500 to your engine builder...
You can use eagle or scat parts
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 13 degree heads, custom headers, custom carb, crank trigger, timing belt drive, jesel shaft rockers, and vacuum pump. That's stuff is exotic, the stuff they used is just expensive.
some will argue the way he puts the piston rings on can bend or otherwise cause issues, and they should be spread apart and slid over. I'd suggest it's easier to drop the camshaft in before the crankshaft, with the block sitting on its bellhousing and letting gravity help out. You can reach in and grease up the camshaft while you're there, so everything stays inside the block. but, great video and good point about using the grease on the crank mains to show how the bearings are doing before buttoning it all up.
1500 - Dart SHP Block
900 - Molnar crank
600 - Molnar rods
750 - Mahle forged pistons
1600 - AFR 195 cc heads
400 - Crane billet roller cam
320 - Victor Jr intake
300 - MSD distributor
450 - Holley Brawler carb
Machine shop ?
Misc bolts, gaskets, lube, rings, roller lifters, roller rockers, pushrods, billet timing cover, ATI superdamper, valve covers, waterpump, pulleys???????
Easy... With no "exotic" parts.
I'm going with clickbait..
Darrell Coy yah thats what i thought this is absurd and unreasonable as well as kind of shaming towards ACTUAL budget/ easy builds lol... i turned it off at dart block 😂
You mean you don't have an extra $10k laying around? Peasant!
What's really bad is for a few hundred bucks I can feed my 8.4:1 slant six a 300 shot (i have very little ring left) and outrun that chebby for 1/10 the money you guys have into it. Maybe only once but I'd actually be going fast for cheap
CORZER0 LMAO
might as well buy a crate LS3 or LS7 and save a lot of weight too
You can build a 535hp/535tq 400 cid with a factory block, flat top pistons, 6.0” rods, Good head 195-200cc runner 62-64cc heads and a Factory oem GM #140 1st off road mechanical cam w/ 1.60 rockers. 91-93 octane pump gas.
Way more affordable.
That was a nice build actually. After seeing the results I'm so impressed with it I wonder what this motor might make with an old school solid lifter flat tappet camshaft. Love the roller hydraulic but if using hydraulic roller perhaps I'd have used an OEM style aftermarket performance lifter to save the weight of the tie bar and about $500 lol. To me one of the advantages of those Dart blocks is the ability to use OEM style rollers.
Nothing like the clackity-clack of a solid flat tappet cam 👍
@@GOSH454 yep and the 6000rpm limit you get with hydraulic lifters is easily raised and they're a bit lighter.
Nice little look. Little expensive for a tight budget.
I have found that first place in a rebuilding sleeper motor is breathing. Starting with a good set of big valve closed chamber heads. Ported by hand. Polished. Make sure they fit the gasket on both intake and exhaust. A good manifold. I like the torker. Carb sitting a little off square. I also recommend a double pump. Dual feed. 850 cfm holly. 556/ split duration cam shaft. Anti pump up lifters. Chrome rings.
A-large set of tuned headers. And I stand by this. Use the biggest exhaust pipe you can. I prefer 3” O.D
If you have an automatic. You are going to have to install a stall speed torque converter.
And a little aviation fuel never hurts. Just don’t forget to add the marvel mystery oil to the AV Gas. Top end lube a must.
418 Dislikes??? Most likely 418 jealous Tesla Drivers :-)))
Hahahahah
Small block chevy. Best engine ever built. The most popular engine ever built.
The reason they were popular is because they were cheap, and parts for them are cheap. They are far from being the BEST engine ever built .
@@HowardJrFordJust saw this .. i know its 4 years ago but what is the best built engine? What ever engine you pic someone else will suggest a differs one..! The small block Chevy is the all around best engine to build and HOT ROD EVER , no matter what excuses you come up with …! It has won more races , been installed in more purpose built race cars , street rods , race boats , off road performance race craft than any other period !!! Get over it …🏁🏁
I love how you guys take engine builds seriously! Thumbs up for ya!
I did this similiar build in a mopar but with steelies as back in the day mopar aluminum heads were nuts., with a cam motion 567 lift roller set up with a stroker kit. Its a great street motor. Still fighting traction problems
"smart part selection" sums up any build perfectly - figure out what one wants to achieve, and on what fuel, and build for the torque and rpm balance required.
What I REALLY like is you guys, and your customer, sticking to the 'old school' SB rather than taking the generic LS/LT crate option that is SO boring!
Well... they may be boring but the engineering of the LS platform is far superior for stress and heat dissipation.
In this (excellent) build they just used extremely strong parts to overcome both of those.
Great Video, I built nearly the same combo a couple of years back, made 552HP 515ftlbs. 405ci, Std Vic Jnr manifold, AFR195 heads, 11:1 CR
marsv7777 great heads
are you able to still use pump gas with your setup?
@@Coches we have 11.4 CR so cylinder pressure around 200. We run on pump gas . 98 octane
With only 195 cc intake runners for 400 cubic inches and .558 lift, I was really surprised to see a pickup of 15 lbft and 26 ponies. Stout engine and well worth the investment.
Next you should do a 496 with 781 heads with 2.190 intake valve. 700 horsepower al day on pump gas with all stock parts plus stroker rotating assembly.
Could probably get a 502 from a boat or motorhome fairly cheap.
I got two old school 2 bolt 454 bbc's completely bare blocks for sale. No crank, main caps, BARE.
@@JayLupe I have one 454 that needs a sleeve and a 366 top kick block, going to build a couple of coffee tables and sell them, jokes on them cause they are junk, but they will still look awesome
I clicked on this when it had 666 views. I figured it must be a beast. LOL I give it a thumbs up !!
A beast for $10K+... can do similar Gen. 1 for $1K...
Nice.. we’re fixing to start our engine build on the 86 c10 Stepside
I love Keith and his crew. They are real and do awesome builds. They right up the road from me. They are the only ones I'd go to, and believe me Plenty other builders in Concord NC !
The lesson from this video- AFR makes a damn fine cylinder head. I'm running AFR 195s on my 383 stroker, with a similar hydraulic roller cam and 10:25:1 compression. 1000cfm EFI setup. Runs like a bat out of hell on the street. #AFRFTW
Make a video I’d look at it ..i am thinking about ordering a new 383 stroker
You boys crack me up. Dart block forged stroker crank h beam rods roller cam AFR heads on and on. Literally a engine built totally from aftermarket parts. Easy? Sure, with a unlimited budget and lots of background in engine building + a convenient machine shop oh and a dyno. Easy???? LOL!!!! Come on...
Gerald Kesselring I agree
Yes, but it sounds good, and calling those parts everyday and not exotic is stretching it, still a sound build. What about header sizes and collector length and diameter?, not a low cost build.
Mike S. Nice Article Thanks For The Link 😀😊😀
Built my first engine, almost the same as this one, in my garage at home. Did everything but bore the cylinders myself. Its a SBC, there's more than enough info on internet alone. I cant think of an easier platform to start on.
Yeah, $10,000.00+ plus isn't so "easy" on the wallet... I can do similar for about $1,000... or less...
For everyone complaining about parts price on this motor, build a ground up engine better and cheaper or shut up and let these rich boys enjoy their fun
I really like the vintage Corvette valve covers. That shop is clean as an aircraft hangar
@Clay Potter
to quote R. Lee Ermey: 'well, no shit'
ITS GOING TO BE A HANDFUL IN THAT LIGHT CAR.
I'm running nearly this same engine in my 65 Chevelle right now. These engines work better with a performer rpm manifold. You don't need forged parts for 6K rpm people but the roller cam and heads sure help. Not cheap to build but endless torque, perfect drivability with plenty of top end.
I agree with everything you just said. As far as Street performance the Edelbrock RPM air gap will blow their intake away in low end without giving much on top. I was surprised these engine Masters didn't go for it. I suppose they wanted horsepower on top in as bragging rights but sacrificing low in torque for the street is unacceptable since this is a street build.
@@flyhigh6591 that setup changed my TPI L98 from an anemic 80s v8 into a low budget race motor and took away very little low range torque. It can make for a tall setup though, needed a 3" cowl to clear it.
Ring gaps are a little close, by about .001” for pump gas , but for a lighter weight car, that shouldn’t be an issue as long as the top ring height at TDC is beneath the thickness of the deck material in the area of the cylinder that has a cooling jacket, or oil squirters for cooling the pistons.
I had my 400 block specially created out of moon dust that was forged and machined into my motors basic foundation. It was then cryogenically frozen for 16 weeks (in Antartica) at 158.7 degrees below absolute zero before being heat cycled 17+ times....at NASA....and then final machined by an A.I. robot guided laser. My crankshaft was a one off piece that is 15X stronger than stock while weighing in at a mere 12 lbs. The pistons were only $2500 (each) and the ring package are plasma moly unobtanium units....of course. My heads and valve train need to be kept a secret (for now) but with a little creativity and determination, anyone can duplicate my results here.
Thou art a man of class and style... in the great tradition of cynics.
Nice vid. It's easier to stab in a camshaft when you do it before putting in the rotating assembly (put the block on its bellhousing area and you can slide the camshaft in vertically to avoid nicking the bearings, too). It is interesting that for some of us, "exotic" means aftermarket. Some folks could use all OEM parts with Morraine bearings, others are used to "Trick" race stuff that requires dyno tuning to get it to work with multiple cam grinds that change the ignition timing and intakes with spacers and extended walls for the inside cylinders.
I love a 350-400 hp small block, just enough power to have fun are not hurt the pockets
for those who know what they are doing, or watch enough TH-cam videos, its easy enough to put together an engine like that with mostly OEM parts (now that folks are selling them cheap to step up to an LS) and the thing about not hurting the pockets, is that some "cheap" 1,000 hp dyno queen needs a brake system to match, cooling system, suspension, U joints, etc....so it ends up not being so cheap. find a later 1970's car or 1980's car to put this engine into, and you get a power-to-weight ratio that is just right for public roads. Meanwhile Mr. "my Ls makes 1,000 hp" is still in the garage getting it all together on his budget.
The LS platform can run a thousand hp with stock internals, seen it more than once, with a single turbo and two factory fuel pumps and double lines one to each fuel rail with a factory reprogrammed ECM, power can be cheap to make if you don't mind getting picked on for being cheap
The LS is a great design, and it has that Y block since it was originally designed in aluminum. its heads flow well, not just due to port size, but the angle of the valve. Ironically, a Pontiac 350 has a similar valve angle and its large crankcase gives it the same benefit as the Y block--atmosphere inside the crankcase doesn't get compressed as much by the pistons (the new shelby block just puts holes in the main webs). It does have its weaknesses, like any block design--such as four bolts rather than the old five bolts per cylinder, often blamed in the Ford pushrod 5.0 for letting head gaskets blow under too much boost.
There are folks who can take a junkyard LS with unknown history, and get it to last at 1,000 hp. and there's a lot who haven't had it last more than a few passes on the bumper. there are folks who can get it to make 1,000 hp in a dyno, but they are running 60 degree inlet temps, a 3 inch exhaust that won't fit under an F body and bends that won't fit under a hood, etc. once that engine is installed in a car, the numbers change. The good thing about the design is its two decades old, so people have figured out what OEM oil pan etc works. but if i had a car with a 305 installed, what's cheaper to get 400 hp out of, a Vortec 350 that bolts in and reuses the 305's linkage and oil pan and serpentine belt and AC setup...or an LS that needs a few more parts to fit, and a throttle by wire gas pedal to work the factory EFI, and....
but again, those who grew up knowing only the LS, have a leg up on getting that swap to work in a car. and as always there are the builders who claim big numbers, yet can't come up with any time slips....:)
I make my living as an AERA certified machinist and having eight years building engines , this guy is a excellent builder.
i like the way he sends it at 4:44, 7:09, and 2:58
How long does it take to assemble a motor , given all matching done etc?
A great meat and potatoes build.....watching Keith build is very satisfying as he reinforces all of the tricks and attention to detail I have hined in myself over the years.
A well written and narrated video that spares the bullshit and shows how a Gen 1 small block is still a viable option.
My only beef is that this is an $9000 engine.......albeit bulletproof.
My own 406 uses a stock block and is very similar.....I built it for around $5000......but as the video states, probably no where near as strong.
By the time you source a good LS block, machine it with similar quality pistons and rods. Then buy all the electronics to make it run you have spent 50% more. And still have a fragile LS
Ive messed around with Mopars Pontiacs..but still love the sound of a high winding Small Block Chevy..music to my ears
You should love it also because of how much more $$ it takes to build a mopar, that won't be as reliable.
I build my own,I like the way the guy places the rings on with the rod just standing up on newspaper . learn something new everyday
This gentleman is like a chef doing the most Delicious Happy birthday Cake!!! Is called love for what you're doing. Cheers and i suscribe.
That's a nice strong and reliable build, but it's exotic in my view as far as the parts go. Nobody's talking about the cost of the roller cam and lifters and full roller rocker arms. GM used 5.65" con rods, so going to 6" rods adds to the weight and means exotic coated pistons too. It's gotta be nice when you can go to a dance and the chicks don't see the black embedded in your pores and under your nails that you missed. For my Henry J I've started with a dirty two bolt main 400 block which is 155 pounds versus the 175 for a very dirty 4 bolt block, and it's supposed to be stronger. I've got a pair or nice anonymous heads from a California shop' and a new cast crank which combines with a 0.060 bore (checked the cylinders) to give a bit over 412 cubic inches. I hesitated to bore a good block sixty over, but I'm over sixty and with today's synthetic oil (after it's broken in and the rings are well seated) and a rev limiter set at 6500, it should be good for 100,000 miles if not beaten on all the time. I'm debating on filling the block a bit because it is bored so much, though stock trucks always have more than a hundred thousand on them when you find one. Years ago I got to see around Comp Cams so you know I'm going to have them give me a flat tappet hydraulic cam (short track type I think) and use 1.6 Long slot rockers with reinforcing bars to steady things up and setscrews to keep the adjustment from changing. An Edelbrock or Holley dual plane manifold, with a Carter AFB or Edelbrock carb. I'll try to get a new approved balancer for it and I have a steel blow shield/belhousing and a steel and an aluminum flywheel already and a Saginaw 4 speed and a Saginaw 3 speed-overdrive. The dyno will be 1/4 mile long and some of Roger Huntington's formulas should get me the horsepower. A set of aluminum heads, manifold and flywheel is exotic as I can go for now.
Really great horsepower for the street. Great video. 👍🏽👍🏽
@camaroguy 66. 👍🏽👍🏽
I’ve got half the money in my 350 with a higher compression and still no issues. I push 538 to the wheel... stock gm block, stock gm crank, gm forged flat tops, edelbrock performer heads (210 cc before porting), edelbrock air gap intake, .560/.560 comp cam (110 love separation and 274 duration at .50), supporting valve springs, lunati 1.6 rockers. Why spend more money than you need to?
I built this engine almost exactly except it was a 327 and I had 13K in it In 1999.
Fn screamer huh?!
Smokey Yunick did it back in the day, I think he was the first to get 500 plus hp out of a SBC
Number 2 off road cam and 12.5 comp and av gas.
you should try to get an approximate price for the builds! Great video!
I was just wondering this too.
20k
I love these types of builds.... keep up the great work guys
Thanks! And thanks for watching
Gotta defend these guys here against all the hate, if you want this kinda power NA, you are NOT going to do it going to your local parts store. Period. So if you think its hard going on Google and buying the parts you need then this is not for you. Also, if you think its supposed to cost 500 dollors for everything, you are dumb. Im building a 383 at the moment, saving every penny i can on ebay and other sources and still ill be lucky if i get it done for less than 4 grand.. Guess what it cost money to do this, dont want to spend the money? Go collect stamps or some shit, this is easy for people with enough will power and want to do it. Personally i found this video very accurate and informational, if you disagree go build a cheap ass Honda!
But, but, TH-cam engine experts....I mean, you know all these guys are pros with their own machine shop and dynos.....right?
my honda build isn't cheap lol but ok...neither was the 95 ss impala. or my guys 16 wrx sti. money and time. plain and simple with any build deemed proper. if I jump out there I'll put my ss on you. if that don't work my awd j series 94 2dr accord will clean up any and all challenges. it did as an h series fwd... just saying... got knowledgeable people around me. btw my first build was a sr20 for a 91 se-r. 440 at the wheel 😎🤙
Excellent build high end high buck parts too!!
Love the fact that ol boy assembles pistons on newspaper!! You know that's a well built, stump-pulling motor!
I'm going to assume that's because towels will weave themselves a blanket on the oil pickup
@@jimmypatterson9854 you would be correct. You want no fibers in your oil sysyem.
Looks and runs fantastic but it looks to me like you had no pvc system , how did you get the internal pressures out of the motor . ?
A nice stout engine, I should get these guys to build me one & ship it back to Australia to put in my 57 pickup.
Cheers 😊
I know Keith works with a handful of race teams in Australia, so he definitely can ship to you. www.automotivespecialists.com
The Horsepower Monster thanks for the heads up. I’ve been in touch with Skip White Performance in Kingsport Tennessee, I think I’ll give with a call to see what he has on offer.
Appreciate your help
Cheers
The Horsepower Monster ahh that should have read I’ll give Keith a call to to see what he has on offer. Auto correct taking over again.
Cheers
This is a complete work of Beauty!!! Great work Gentlemen!👍🏼 can't wait to do mine!
Beautiful. I need "two"! One for the living room, and one for my 98 k1500 chevy of which I'll leave the hood off of!! just sayin
My buddy owns Rank Performance and driveline, He built me a 383 small block that made 558.9 hp@ 5700 and 505 tq@ 5000. We dynoed it on an overcast muddy day so it could of made roughly 20 more hp. I am adding a vacuum pump amd its set up for a 400 Big shot. Now i have no time to play with it so going to sell it off.
That stinks! Of course, when you do get time you can always build another one.
As soon as I saw the Tri-Y headers, I hit the subscribe button.
Put 11:1 compression in it and some more cam to drop the dynamic compression down and it’d be a real street killer combo
I can build a 355 sbc with vortec heads a 268 split cam 112 overlap for torque 400 HP 2000$ long live SBC!
Lilibeth Doherty hello
400 ft poynds
Have that cam ground on a 108 split and you gain as much as 30tq in the mid-range......
May I ask, which is better? Small blocks because they are cheaper but can make good power after some mods. Or a big block that has power out the box already?
I can get an LS out of a truck for $500 and put a $100 cam in it to get 400hp. All you gen II chevy people need to give it up already
They could make the same power a lot cheaper, but it would come apart soon. Real soon.
who needs a machine shop when you get all new parts
that said, i don't recommend bolting on a set of aftermarket cylinder heads without pressure checking them first. when you bolt them on and there is a valve guide or hole in the casting leaking coolant, those heads belong to you. plus many replacement heads have horrible valve fitment issues. never assume.
If I heard correctly, this was set up as a 400 block. If that's the case it's worth it to go with the aftermarket block.... I've had friends pick up older 400 blocks and went through quite a few to get a decent one. Once the machining work is done and the mains are splayed you're still using a stock 400 block that may or may not hold at that level. The price difference between this and the dart plus you can use OEM roller parts on the dart block make the decision pretty clear to me. That's just me though. Now if you were going after say a vortec 880 block from the 90s... that's different. Thats a solid dime a dozen block to build from. I've got my build sheet set up for a 400 that'll make 500 or so for about 4k in parts and 2k in misc other pieces and work. I'll be building it myself so that saves some coin. The block is where you want to put your money imo. That's just me....
Coast high performance has the best and cheapest 406 short blocks that I have used and haven't ever had a problem.
@@lilibethdoherty295 That's still a decent chunk of change too. But CHP builds pretty excellent engines so... You get what you pay for.
This man has forgotten more about engines than most will ever know and like Dale Wexler from WTT, he has passed his knowledge and passion down to his kid.
I'd love to have this engine with FI in an M80 with a 5spd. (You Southern Boys of a certain age will know what an M80 is.) Or for a total Sleeper, a Wagon of the same platform.
750 cfm to 830 cfm double pumper should not have made that much difference. The 750 needed more jet, or more air jet. The 830 must have had the needed air OR fuel. The 750 cfm carb was not making much restriction at 6000 rpm.
Buddy you aren't going to tell keith dorton ANYTHING! go back to your tool shed. Also go read something about what air correction jets actually do
Once the throttle blades are fully open, and the air fuel ratio going into the engine has stabilized, a double pumper carb has no advantage over a single pumper carb. I'm assuming that everything else about the carbs is identical, and that is probably not the case in this test. The increased flow that the 830 cfm carb has over the 750 should not make a huge difference. That is my point. If the 750 has strait boosters, and the 830 has downleg booster, that will add power.
@@adam42a At peak HP, this engine uses no more than 700 CFM. The max power should be available with a 750.
Anything is easy with the right amount of money
you'd have to save up for it. ofc its gonna take you more than one youtube episode
really cool motor love looks about everything you did with it
I gave way Victor Jr single plane. Because I had a old dual plane laying around. That might be the bug I don't know.
Grand total cost (even ballpark) woulda been a nice addition
easy $10,000
500 - Dart SHP Block
900 - Molnar crank
600 - Molnar rods
750 - Mahle forged pistons
1600 - AFR 195 cc heads
400 - Crane billet roller cam
320 - Victor Jr intake
300 - MSD distributor
450 - Holley Brawler carb
Machine shop ?
Misc bolts, gaskets, lube, rings, roller lifters, roller rockers, pushrods, billet timing cover, ATI superdamper, valve covers, waterpump, pulleys???????
Easy... With no "exotic" parts.
I built the first 383 factory 010 block with 3.75 stroke with 6"rods small basecircle cam block in 1996. Before all these special clearanced h beam rods where available...... its still running 26 years later with 85000 miles..... dynoded 575 hp and 18- 22 mpg with 3 spd th350 and 3.42 gears...... I scraped 2 blocks trying to clearance for the stroke.
557 hp and your getting 18/22 mpg. You must be choking the heck out of that engine to get that good of mpg with that much hp that engine got to be starving for fuel....lol
"No exotic parts" haha this thing is like 10k might as well buy a crate motor for 4k from gm
Edit: with warranty*
Or a ls3 with 490 hp for 8k from gm for all you people trying to show off their numbers
That's exactly what I was thinking!
And make 350HP? No thanks.
You think a 525hp ASA ls3 crate motor is less than 8k?
@@KingJT80
Here's the motor I'm referring to directly from GM
:)
490hp
470tq
www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19370411.html
Edit:
Comes with 24 month warranty or 50k miles
With what $3500 in labor for a gm dealership to do the install? Otherwise warranty doesnt mean crap if you install it yourself
This is a budget build…so we started out with a Dart block.
I don't think I ever said "budget"
Very nice street engine. Bulletproof bottom end and great breathing heads.
And this is when I say..."whats not to like"? You could flog the hell out of this without worry.
Nice Job 😀😊😀👍🏼
Thanks!
500hp for under 1000$:
1. Buy 400 small block
2. Buy vortec heads.
3. Drill steam holes
4. Buy intake manifold and carb
5. Buy aftermarket cam
6. Done
Friend of mine is running a 1971 400 sbc, forged internals, vortec heads, a mild cam, victor jr, 800 thunderseries edelbrock, and he pulled 10.37 at the track in a 76 camaro. Not sure how much power its making, but those vortec heads made a huge difference.
blerk h I got almost what you said. I got aluminum heads and stroker kit
Ya right. Lol.
Ya right like that’s all you have to buy lol dumbest comment on this thread
@@xxLaNcExx07 a 400 bare blocking the cheap is $250. Plus 1000 worth of machine work!
This is a fairly expensive SBC build, but it's done right. Just look at what it costs to get this much normally aspirated horsepower, AND that fat torque curve, from some complicated OHC engine. You could, for example, try doing a 6.3L AMG DOHC V8 build. Stock, it makes 469HP and 479 lb/ft. People are asking over $18,000 for USED ones on eBay, just for reference. And, for the same power, you'd have to do some serious mods, like maybe four (count 'em, FOUR) new German aftermarket cams, for example. Possibly rebuild it, too. That costs $57,000 at a dealership, BTW. Let's say the parts and machine work would cost maybe $30,000 for a DIY rebuild.
The SBC lives on for very good reasons.
This Ford guy approves this build....magnificent....magnificent......magnificent
Might be easy but far from cheap.
These Dart SHP blocks kick some ass. I'm building one starting in a few weeks.
Excellent. Hope it goes great!
The specs on this motor are less aggressive than the one I just built and mines not 550 horse lol so those AFR heads must be some magic in a box. I’ve heard great things about them.
Excellent build!! I love all of your parts selection. I would have you build for me in a second.
I have known this gentlemen for most of my career. I knew his brother Randy as well. We were racing against both of them until Randy's death in a plane crash. Just for a little information Randy was chief engine builder for Hendrick Motorsports (Think Jeff Gordon and Jimmie Johnson) while Keith is President of Automotive specialists in Concord. He builds mainly for short track racing competition but make no mistake he and Randy are legendary engine builders. I worked for Dale Earnhardt Inc from 2004 thru the merger with Chip Ganassi to become EGR till 2009 and that's how I know them.
@@monsterinthebed concord, California? I want my 1994 blazer to push well over 450 HP.
To build this exactly ..on a small block 400..i wonder the cost involved..parts and assembly ..a finished product engine after build is complete .? Sure it isn't inexpensive
Cheaper than building a LS motor small block.
What!! No way you can buy a crate LS cheaper. This guy prob has at least 15K in this engine.
Good job!)
"Speed is just a matter of money. How fast do you want to go?"
Dart isnt exotic, all this stuff can be bought from places like summit or jegs,, exotic chev parts are made in the U,K believe it or not.
I rebuilt my 66 327 0.60 11.1 cost was 964$ totally i use sealpower Teflon coated pistons
So all I need is a dedicated fresh AC vent for my intake!
NaqoyqatZ
Hahaha I love it !! I was thinking the same thing
that helps
With that compression ratio I'd have tossed an F1A on that thing. Otherwise I'd have gone with more compression, a solid roller and bigger heads. This is a really nice build, regardless
From what I have learned the cylinder heads right out of the box should be machined to insure the valves seat properly.
Maybe not recut the heads, but you are right. You should at least vacuum check all the valves and seats. That was done here and everything was fine. That's why I mentioned that the heads are like they were right out of the box. Vacuum checked and verified, but nothing has been machined or changed. Thanks for watching.
My dart pro series, the seats were way out of spec. You could tell where he started on the cnc and as you got to the back they were out of concentric .008 or so. I will never buy assembled heads again.
Yeah, and carbs should have the float levels set out of the box.
Check the float levels on your carbs before you install them, because they're wrong more often than they're right.
Nice motor. A bit on the conservative side of that block's capability imo. Nothing exotic about it though. Everything is off the shelf. Before you go whining about the price remember that stock 400 blocks are A) rare and B) weak. A regular production 400 block will barely tolerate 400 horsepower before breaking. Totally agree with those saying built an LS instead, but old guys do love their nostalgia.
That's total bs bro 😂😂😂 but as long as you believe it i guess
@@billybiker5712 😂😂😂😂😂😂 I've had multiple 400 Chevys, but I respect your opinion.
Very impressive engine and builder. IMO though.. way overkill in parts quality for the power levels of a street driven 32 that might see the drag strip occasionally. Although I'd like to see this same engine w/a bigger cam and EFI.
They did mention several times that this can be built much cheaper. I don’t find the parts list to be that extravagant for their power level honestly except for that block. It is plenty stout for what they need and the only part they could’ve saved a lot of money on and still been okay reliability wise getting something cheaper. Maybe the owner installed a power adder later on or something.
@@ABetterLifeInc The parts list in the longblock are very high quality parts and capable of a 100% power increase. Even the 0.022 ring gaps are big enough to withstand a fair amount of boost.
Notice that the power graph displayed starts at 3500? Well how often is that 32 going to be driven at 3,500+ rpms and full throttle? Probably not much. What is far more useful is idle to 5000rpms at part throttle.
More power to the guy with the 32... its an absolute gem. It's a very nice engine!
Just IMO for a NA 32 something like a gen 4 w/ported heads and new valve train would make the same peak power levels, highly likely more power from idle to 3500, and would last just as long as this build.
I guess I'm just cheap. LOL...
9.7 is a bit low when running alu-heads
wow...naturaly aspirated, do-able compression, more torque than Buick 455...says it all....be a screamer/sleeper in a 2900 pound Nova too.
Hi lovely us this running on efi or carbs
I'm building this exact same engine, but with a few budget-friendly changes - - -
Gotta use an all-iron 350 that I have, which will save me THOUSANDS.
Porting the heads myself the best I can,
I have an old Edelbrock dual-plane manifold from back in the day ( doesn't everybody??)
Never had a Chevy rod break, as they're all good to seven grand,
Got some flat-tops that might still work, I know how to blueprint the oil pump myself,
so the big money is going to be the cam, a rebuild kit for one of my 5 Holleys, and gaskets.
I'm expecting 400 Horsepower.
That is a FAT TORQUE CURVE... wow... that would be a lot of fun... I had a 302 small block in my 69 Z28 with solid roller and it made 350ft lb at 3000 and it was fun and wasy to drive.
302 best engine ever made...
What is the cost of the engine.
What he suggest for a 87' Chevy Silverado, I've already had the trans built and the rear end swapped to a 396 possi track, haven't swapped the shafts... I want it to be radical and at the same time be able to drive it wherever, on the radical side!!
TCI 4x or 6x or 4l80E
Great video - always like the mouse , they really run..REALLY wish there was a price for this build. Lots have asked, lots have had a idea. Would be nice to know the cost, know it isn't cheap, but you get what you pay for. Horsepower for bucks. Love the revs. He did smile at the final run.
500 - Dart SHP Block
900 - Molnar crank
600 - Molnar rods
750 - Mahle forged pistons
1600 - AFR 195 cc heads
400 - Crane billet roller cam
320 - Victor Jr intake
300 - MSD distributor
450 - Holley Brawler carb
Machine shop ?
Misc bolts, gaskets, lube, rings, roller lifters, roller rockers, pushrods, billet timing cover, ATI superdamper, valve covers, waterpump, pulleys???????
Easy... With no "exotic" parts. like fuck................
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411
You are WAY off, even for 3 years ago.
Haha at these people complaining about the cost of domestic speed parts made in the USA.