Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ Here is a link for the Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z Here is the link to the Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Here is the link to the 2 pairs of alligator clips- amzn.to/2CtIL5z Here is the Link for the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in the video - amzn.to/2naJr9o Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper- amzn.to/2dGTj2V Here is a link to the Stanley 6 in 1 screwdriver- amzn.to/2x7NuaZ Other tool links can be found in the video description section. ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive more HVACR content, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech
I’m an electrician and this video was very helpful in troubleshooting my gas pack! It was my inducer motor that went bad! Thank you so much for this detailed and informative video!
Just want to say thank you so much for your videos you put out for us the HVAC community. I learned so much from your videos and I hope The Lord keeps blessing you and your family!
Thanks for this posting. It led me to find stink bugs migrated to the exhaust fan and jambed the impeller. Fewer than 10 found their way over the summer and fall. I did have to take the fan out to get there. Thanks for the comments that it isn't always the pressure switch.
At 10:03 you talk about blowing out the tubes backwards, that's what worked for me. The hoses themselves were fine, but the tubes they were connected to mustve been plugged. Thank you!
Fired up the heat for the first time this year, not heat. Stuck combustion motor bearing. Pair of needle nose to the shaft, and I'm enjoying heat! Thank you sir!!
Great video; my inducer fan was not kicking on and i had power going into and coming out of the board; never thought the problem could be the thermostat (since the thermostat looked like it was operating) thank you!!!
Thank you so much. You’re’s videos is one of the best I’ve ever seen. Thank you for showing kinds of inducer motors, and explanation difference between them. I also like grayfurnaceman’s videos. Thank you for your help!!!
Thank you so much for this! I have a brand new variable speed Goodman Furnace in my attic for my second story. When I turn the heat on, heat will come through the registers for ten minutes. Then the inducer motor will shift into a high gear and make a very Loud noise for 90 seconds. It's so loud it sounds like an airplane is taking off. After 90 seconds the inducer motor will either shut down, or shift to a quieter speed. When this happens, all heat will stop coming through the registers. The heat shuts down before reaching the temp the thermostat is set to. My HVAC contractor tried to trouble shoot by taking off the NEST thermostat and hot-wiring the thermostat. Nothing changed. Heat flowed for 10 minutes. Then the inducer motor sped up and sounded like an airplane for 90 seconds. Then the inducer quieted down and the heat shut off completely. Now, my HVAC contractor has no idea what the problem is. Any idea what we should be checking? (Also, my HVAC contractors said there's nothing I can do about the loudness of the inducer motor. It's not due to vibration so suspending it won't help. Plus my attic ceiling is too high to suspend it. I'm in California. He said this type of inducer motor is only required in California. Is there anything I can do about the LOUDNESS??) Thank you again!
What is that little Amber plastic part on the center of the backside of the induction fan at 0:24 in your video. mine is busted and was in the blower housing. Can I run my furnace with this piece missing?
very educative. Thank you. what is the normal current draw of inducer motor. should the amp clamp be away from the motor as much as possible to reduce effect of induced current due to the motor when it runs . Thank you regards .
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I had a long night. My inducer motor was not spinning and it seems like the impeller was jamming inside the housing. When I took it off I found the gasket material deteriorated and I suspect it may have jammed up the impeller. Unfortunately I can't open the impeller housing, even with all the screws removed. After freeing up the impeller and reinstalling the motor it worked fine. Now it's working as if nothing happened. The motor is spinning freely. Do I need to worry? We're going away from the house for a while and I need the furnace to work.
Great video. Thank you. Question: I'm replacing my inducer motor ONLY. I see there's clear silicone around the assembly. My question is, is there any temperarture rating for the silicone? I do not mean the seal betweek the assemlbly and the furnace, which does get hot. TIA
Hi, my york YP9C inducer motor has only two wires. How does it able to ramp up and down with only two wires connected. One wire is HOT and the other is NEUTRAL. Thanks.
Always check the t stat and filter first and the the overtemp switches but, Its usually the bearings in the inducer that go bad. Just spinning the motor like you showed can usually show a problem. This can often cause the relay on the board to fail. I just usually power up the inducer motor with jumper leads if it looks ok to test it.
Can you explain the equation at the end? It says start to run = 152ohms but when you got 152 ohms, you were checking with the common wire to one of the capacitor wires. Just a little confused on what start and run are in this scenario.
It is interesting in this scenario that white wire is actually the run while the black is the c. It is just how that motor was wound. I did a double take on it too because the high resistance value is found between the start and run. Thanks, good eyes
Had a loud buzz when the inducer motor kicked on. Tech diagnosed bad inducer so I replaced entire assembly (motor and blower). High efficiency black plastic Fasco. Still have the same loud buzz. Any thoughts? Thanks
This is a very useful video, but unfortunately, I'm still having an issue. My inducer motor kicks on as it should and doesn't make a bunch of weird noises or anything. I haven't found any clogs. I checked everywhere but the flue, although, I have had the unit serviced regularly for the past few years. I know that doesn't necessarily mean it's clear, but basically, my pressure switch isn't activating. I tried taking the tube off of that and feeling for a vacuum, but I couldn't detect any with my fingers... Should I be able to? All signs are pointing to the pressure switch, but the undetectable vacuum made me second guess that. Any suggestions would be really appreciated!
@@learnjcbskidsterchickensga7594 I made a manometer with some colored water in a loop of vinyl tubing and confirmed that it had an adequate amount of vacuum. So, it ended up being the pressure switch, and I found one locally for less than $10!
Is there a way to lubricate a motor similar to the very last one you've shown in your video? I have a Bryant 340AAV furnace and the capacitor for the inducer is weak (3.0+-5% is at 2.6). But i also notice unusually amount of stiffness from the motor itself,as well as some minor play in the shaft. Is there someway i can lubricate the unit? I cannot find any ports. Great video btw, I didn't even know to check the tiny rectangle capacitor at 4:55.
Thanks and no that play cannot be corrected. It sounds like if there is stiffness and play that the motor is on its way out, especially if there are no oil ports. Even if there was, oil wouldn't correct the underlying problem of it being worn down. Oiled motors need to have oil added every six months or so, thanks and yes replace that capacitor.
if you have 24v between w and c at the furnace control board but not 120v out to supply the inducer motor and there are no 24v limits open then the problem is the board, thanks!
Hello how are you, My inducer motor start spinning for a split second and stops, it kind of gets stuck. And when I manually spin the wheel it goes fine. Is this a matter of just oiling it up? Behind the wheel
our furnace is making noise, was told it was the draft control. Furnace was not ran for a couple years, can you oil them? It didnt spin at first as if it was locked up and he turned it and it did finally start spinning
Hi, I am Very thankful your posting and i wanna to ask that My furnace is working but the combustion air inducer seem like very very hot when the prowler is on. I am afraid that is abnormal or is fine? Do I need to change it?
It will get warm depending on the % eff of the furnace and how hot the exhaust is. If you are concerned then it could be changed. If the bearings are going bad then they present a safety concern, thanks
Brother in law calls and says his furnace is not running 60 in house. Used an Ohm meter and found 120V at the inducer blower leads but inducer not running. Watched this video. Then went back to the brother in laws house next door. Was just about to think the inducer blower was bad and tinkered with the leads to the unit at the connection on the blower, and by jarring one, the blower began running. Used a TWISTIE TIE to keep tension on the one wire closer to the other so the blower works and now the furnace runs fine. I fixed his furnace with a TWISTIE TIE--only thing handy at that moment!!! Tomorrow I will review the work and maybe use a zip tie instead. I doubt there is any cure for a bad factory made connector that I can repair and I sure am not going to buy a whole blower.
Got one that im stuck on: Changed induced draft motor, board, pressure switch, and still getting a pressure switch stuck open on a amana 80 percent(3 flashes). Any ideas?
I dropped a wooden shim into the heat exchanger, I'm wanting to take off the black inducer housing to try and obtain it. I'm assuming its a fire hazard.
I am getting 2.4v for the inducer motor. Means card is not giving out 120v. During winter we niticed that blower motor was running but we were not getting heat. Eventullay blower motor stopped working. I am trying to get this running. I did buy a new bord, inducer motor did not turned on. Input will be apporeciated.
My inducer motor starts and runs ok but when the thermestat is done calling for heat the inducer motor starts to cycle on and off. Do you have any idea what it could be
So I can hear my inducer motor working, but it won't close my replacement pressure switch. I read to disconnect the hose between the motor to the pressure switch, blow/suck air and I would hear the click on the pressure switch, which i do. But when I replaced the hose back onto the motor after blowing/sucking through, the furnace won't run on its on. Is it a failing inducer motor?
I have a problem where I hear the humming current going through my inducer motor but it's not spinning. I turn off the furnace and start up again and the inducer motor does the same thing. I thought it's the capacitor so I bought a new replacement but it's doing the same thing. I tried spinning the motor by hand and it would go slowly with resistance. But once I turn the furnace off I am able to spin the inducer motor freely. So I don't think the bearings are seized. Any idea to what might be wrong?
Hello i like your videos they are very helpful, thank you i have a problem with my furnace it takes too much time to turn on, i replaced the thermostat but still doing that i don't know if I need to clean the flame rod sensor, could you please tell me what to do. Thank you. Have a great day.
Hey Jose , you would need to know if the problem is in the low voltage or sequence of operation. Here is the troubleshooting furnaces playlist for you to see where it stops at. -- th-cam.com/video/k5vEkndMXLI/w-d-xo.html
Hi, I have a carrier infiniti furnace the ecm inducer comes on right away when power is supplied to it without a call for heat. Took off all the thermostat wires thinking it might be the thermostat but still the same, replaced the board already. Could it be the inducer ? Thanks
If the motor does say”sealed bearings” and only has a hole in the front toward the blower wheel, can you oil it? My motor was stiff. I removed and let it run on the ground. It started a little slow, but started running. I heard something loose in the housing when I removed it. Found a piece of gravel. Not sure if it was in it already, or if I somehow got it in it when I laid it on the ground. I don’t think I did actually but have no good idea how a piece of gravel from the drive could have gotten in it. Rodent? Also, the motor only has two wires going to it. They honed at 49 ohms I think it was. It is a 220 volt motor.
The problem is you dont want that to be running with stiff bearings and catch on fire. That is a real thing that seems to happen to inducer motors more than any other component. You may want to consider replacing that, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC I meant to say the motor is notstamped “sealed” I did get the motor spinning a little more freely, but only ran for a little bit. Getting back on it today as was dark and cold when I last checked it. I suspect the bearings got hot and caused the motor to overheat. Not sure I am getting power to the motor now as it did seem to get warm like it first did when I noticed it. I will check for 220-230 at the board that supplies power to the two wires going to the motor again. I do think It is best to replace the motor since the windings, bearings and or thermal protector may be damaged. I had thought of replacing the bearings, but this thing is about 19 or 20 years old. The only service it has ever had was when I cleaned the coils a time or two and replaced capacitor. Does 44 ohms sound right for the motor? It only has two wires going to it, red and yellow from the board. Found the immediate problem. When I bundled the wires up again with the zip tie, I pulled a blue wire off the relay. The motor was still very slow to start, but it did eventually get up to what I think is the correct speed and the heater fired up. Going to let it run a little and check the motor for getting warm. Update: I let it run for a little bit. I suspected the motor was still stiff because it would move very slowly when trying to run. I boosted a little a few times with a screw driver against the fins inside the motor until it got moving faster and it finally got up to speed. but, it got too hot to lay my hand on for very long. Motor time. :(
I got a no heat call. I set the stat to heat the inducer runs but the pressure switch is stuck open so no flame, I touched it and it was hot but not scorching hot I think I'm going to swap it out
Hi. I appreciate your channel. I have a Lennox system. The first time I attempted to use the Heat Cycle this season, it did not start the shaded pole inducer motor. No sysytem error messages. I assumed bad motor and replaced. Still does not start motor. I verified thermostat continuity. What should I check next?
After you turn your thermostat to heat, inside the furnace, do you have 24v read with a multimeter from w to c? If not, you are not getting a signal to the control board to start the heat sequence, thanks!
during normal operations the inducer runs constantly. without stopping. if I short cycle(my own term in which I turn stat up requesting heat and once squirrel cage engages I physically turn stat down 10 degrees below ambient; blower stops & internals retained heat raises enough for a second blower run to cool- maybe a minute or two. After this "short cycle" when blower stops the inducer also stops. I find this as the only way to stop inducer motor. What am I experiencing?
Good evening I have a Heil furnace and the blower keeps going on even the thermostat off. Did change the control board. I’m getting 120 volts into the control board but not getting 120 volts to the inducer. Any suggestions what I can do so see what’s causing the problem. Sorry forgot to mention I did check the thermostat and like I said the control board got swap and still doing the same thing even with the new board
If your changing inducer motor and it starts raining on you and your control board gets wet that is exposed. Will you wait a day for it to dry before you turn it on? Water damages these electrical components no ?
We usually try to build a temporary shelter if possible to keep the rain off. I know there is only so many things we can fit in the truck and for a service tech, it is hard to tell what the day holds or what if any special precautions you would need to take ahead of time. You could use one of your towels from the truck to gently wipe off the components and then for something like a control board use a heat gun far enough away to dry the water off the board without getting the board really hot. You seem to understand what is needed and am sure you will take precautions when needed. We just do what we can but we don't work on live electric in the rain or stand in water puddles while diagnosing live equipment. Just stay safe and try to communicate your concerns to your boss and try to think of every precaution you can take to get the job done. In a scenario like that, it is easier when you are the boss because it is easy for you to make the call. Other than that being a boss isn't easy ha ha.
If an inducer motor is some how shorted to where it runs non stop would it create a false command for heat, to where the "w" terminal on the control board is disconnected and the inducer motor, blower motor and gas all run non stop except to cycle off for overheating?
I am assuming that you are talking a variable or ecm motor, in that case, it shouldn't feed any 24v to w or make the furnace think it should be in heat mode, thanks
Darn, well i have all thermostat wires disconnected from the circuit board, furnace is blowing hot all the time except for overheat protection, i do have 27volts at the w terminal and .8 ohms between w and r terminals. I replaced the circuit board and same problem. Am i missing something else or is my problem just shorting out the new circuit board
The inducer on my Heil 80% single stage repeatedly cycles on and off when the furnace is not calling for heat. After the furnace fan cycles off, the inducer runs on and off for about 20 minutes. Pressure switch checks out for proper voltage, tubing had a few drops of water in it. No vent obstructions either. I turn the furnace down to 58 degrees at night and this is when it occurs.
Is it just the inducer and not the blower motor? What type of ignition system does it have? HSI or spark direct ignition or pilot ignition? Does it have a board or other controls?
Just the inducer runs. It has an HSI igniter and no mother board. It's 23 yrs. old and just started doing this a few months ago. The gas valve was replaced 10 yrs. ago, and the igniter 2 yrs. ago.
Exactly what is the switch then that is turning the power on to the inducer? Is it a certain type of relay? Follow the wires from the inducer to the switch and let me know, thanks
Inducer: One wire grounded, the other goes to a terminal block, Heil # HQ1009836HW. The only update to the HVAC was done 6 months ago; a Broan HVR was added (I live in the Northeast U.S.). The Broan ties into the cold air return duct and heat supply. I am going to disconnect the Broan, the ducts and cover the cut-outs, just to rule that out.
That Heil number is a control board. If you are not getting 24v from w to c on the low voltage control board when this is happening and if a safety switch is not tripping temporarily when this is happening then the problem would be the control board, thanks
Usually that is due to a restriction in the exhaust such as water filling up a section of the exhaust pipe to the exhaust condensing while traveling through the pipe but the problem is that the piping is not pitched at 1/4" of pitch or higher upwards as it travels away from the furnace. That would be my guess, and make sure to also clean out the furnace condensate line, thanks
I have been having an issue for a few years now, where my inducer will occasionally attempt to start a few times, before it stays on. It does not do it all the time, sometimes it starts normally. But other times it may start/stop a few times before finally staying on for a complete heat cycle. I put a clamp meter on the power wire, and can see the amps going from 1.5 to 0.0 - when it acts up like that. I thought that indicated a bad control board, so I got another board last year, which did not resolve the issue. Last year I disconnected the vacuum from the mounting screws and checked that it was clicking when I sucked on the vacuum hose. It was. And the vacuum port to the inducer was clear also. Funny thing, I just left it hanging and the start/stop issue seemed to stop. Does that make any sense? I eventually remounted the vacuum switch, and did not notice the problem again until this year. This year the inducer is doing the start/stop occasionally again. Not always, but occasionally. What could be the problem? I have a video here that shows the issue. th-cam.com/video/IdkmydTMoNc/w-d-xo.html&lc=z23yundwnwfjul3lhacdp432vlmrbhpa1i5tzt0cnh1w03c010c.1576782577825593&feature=em-comments
I have the same exact issue with my furnace. I checked everything. When it happens, there is no power to the inducer motor from the control board, so I replaced the control board. Same issue. I replaced the inducer motor. Same issue. I replaced the pressure switch . Same issue. Thermostat is new and performing as it should. Wiring is good. This is driving me nuts. There is nothing left to check. What is causing this?
@@dennisnagel1037 Replacing the vacuum switch is the one thing I didn't try, and the one thing I thought could be the cause of the problem. Thanks for letting me know it did not resolve your problem. I wish I knew the answer. It seems nobody knows!
Hi Dennis, I ended up buying a new vacuum switch, and that solved my problem. I read about a voltage test that can be done on the vacuum switch. When the vacuum switch is closed it should read 0 volts. When it is open it should read Around 27 volts. When I tested my old switch, in the closed position , it very often was reading any where from 0.1 to 0.3 volts. It got me thinking that perhaps the old switch was not closing all the way and that's why there was a slight voltage reading . I don't know for sure that's only a guess on my part . Anyways, That made me buy a new vacuum switch and now my furnace starts up without any hesitations all the time. For a few weeks. Actually it's been working great. Maybe that's your problem also? I ordered the switch online for a place called supplyhouse.com I think it was. It looks slightly different but the functionality is the same. Oh, and the way I tested for voltage, once I slipped the to contacts about halfway off the Tang's on the vacuum switch. That way I could attached the alligator clips from my multimeter, and see the voltage ratings as the furnace would start up and stop. Very simple test to do actually. The only thing is my first was tripping off and on so quickly do I sometimes hard to read the multimeter measurements as they were changing very quickly to. Let me know if this helps you at all.
AC Service Tech LLC Yes never seen it before I thought maybe the polarity was backwards but that wasn’t it even unhooked vent to verify no obstruction. Also new install bryant 80%
Great video, but couldn’t get far as my problem happened early... I don’t have any voltage on control board from r to c or (w to c) I also tried jumping the thermostat and nothing. Furnace originally reading a “Pressure switch open fault” I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong...
I live in an apartment complex of 110 units, and we have had several inducer draft motors with bearing failures that often don't get replaced right away, but make noise that I can often hear months before the tenant or landlord hears! Anyway, I was curious why these motors run ALL THE TIME, even when just the AC is on! Does the inducer draft blower serve any function when the AC is running, and if not, why have it running for hundreds of hours during the cooling season if it's not needed? One other issue: in twenty years, my unit needed service when a hornets' nest was built in June 2005, my first year here. I've learned since to run the heat (furnace) five minutes a week during the time from about April until the end of June, to discourage pests! - j q t -
Can someone help me? I'm having a problem with the inducer.... It keeps running and won't stop ....even it's on auto .. It should stop when the room is within temp right ? Plz help me
Thank you for this video, I can hear my inducer motor turn on and off a few times in a five minute period in the wee hours of the morning. The thermostat is off (no call for heat) When I do call for heat everything works fine and efficient. Do you know what could cause this? thank you in advance.
I found my induction motor would not always start up and it seems to be due to "play" in the way it is attached to the housing (perhaps just from time, since it is over 20 years old). I could not find a way to tighten things down to the housing / mount, so I attached a strap to help secure the motor. It had to be in the right place, so I've needed to tweak it. However, not sure the strap will stay put long term, but it seems to help stablize the motor. It seems the only real fix is to replace the motor, they come with the mounts... I was hoping for a less expensive fix. Ideas welcome.
Ruben, here is a video on thermal cutout on a blower motor. It could be broken down resin on the motor windings or locked rotor- th-cam.com/video/IBg0EZg0ohY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, it never came on and the tempeture was rising from 70 slow to a 170. 3 intermittent lights on the board but I didn't find the troubleshooting guide on the board.
Was it a psc motor and did it have a metal or small black plastic capacitor. If it didn't come on, it could have been a capacitor. Did you try free spinning it to see if the bearings were stuck? Thanks
I had a tech come over and get the inducer motor going again by using the screwdriver tip you gave. He then said I need a new inducer motor without testing it or anything. It’s been working fine since yesterday afternoon and I can’t help but wonder if I really do need a new one yet especially if he didn’t test anything. Please help. :-(
If it was an inducer that has oil ports and they were not oiled over a long period and the motor seized, the bearings would be low on oil and would have degraded. In that case you would need a new inducer. The only issue is you don't want the bearings to break and the motor to continue to run which could burn up the bearings. I have seen them light on fire before. I just wanted to share that to stay on the side of caution if that is what happened, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC I went home after work and it wasn’t working again. It was trying to work and overheating, so I turned off the gas emergency switch. Looks like we definitely need a new one. I had a feeling those could potentially cause a fire. Yikes! Thank you for your help.
I'm getting water in the vacuum line from the inducer to the pressure switch. As far as I can tell, all my drain lines are clear. What could be causing this issue?
My inducer motor turns on then off, on then off when there is no call for heat and even when the heater is in the off position. This happens in the wee hours of the morning. Any idea why? thank you! I should add that I do not hear a flame and the blower never turns on, just the inducer fan cycles on and off many times.
When you don't need heat any more for the season you should disconnect the tstat wires at the control board and see if it still happens at night. Unfortunately intermittent problems sometimes take a little more digging in order to find the problem. I would try that temporarily first, thanks Gary!
Armstong furnace gas, induced draft blower won't start, spins freely, I don't get flame, what would cause the problem. Thermostat calls for heat main fan runs blowing cold air, hear the heat pump starting. I am lost. Help.
Bad Inducer motor capacitor? Did you measure voltage at the inducer motor? Did you read resistance values across windings with the power off and wires disconnected?
Hey brother, I didn't look, but, do u have a video in how to properly use a dual manometer? I'm going to get one soon, and, while I know how to use it, be nice to watch a refreshing video lol tia!
Hey Summit M18 HVAC, here are three videos on the subject and to links to the manometers I use - th-cam.com/video/v9QWIr9TIVU/w-d-xo.html -- th-cam.com/video/QAEBLigVD5g/w-d-xo.html -- th-cam.com/video/9DAEZvkyO9A/w-d-xo.html -- and here are the links to the two I use- Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka -- UEI Digital Dual Manometer- amzn.to/2CWC6BD
When the thermostat calls for heat the inducer motor turns on then off immediately. Three lights flashing. After a few minutes it trys to start again. It may do this once, twice, 3, 4 times before it stays on. This doesn`t happen all the time. For a week it may start every time. Its an erratic issue. When this happens: thermostat is sending 24 volts to the board. there is no power to the inducer motor from the control board, I can hear the blower relay click on then off, so I replaced the control board. Same issue. I replaced the inducer motor. Same issue. I replaced the pressure switch . Same issue. Thermostat is new and performing as it should, it is sending 24 volts to board. Wiring is good. This is driving me nuts. There is nothing left to check. What is causing this?
Hey Dennis did you ever figure it out? I have the same problem,loses voltage at the board after the inducer fan runs for about 1 second.If i turn the furnace off and try again it will eventually start and run normally.I think it s the board but not 100% sure. Thanks man have a good day.
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Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ
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Here is the link to the Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka
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Here is the link to the 2 pairs of alligator clips- amzn.to/2CtIL5z
Here is the Link for the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in the video - amzn.to/2naJr9o
Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph
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this is on a gas package unit
I’m an electrician and this video was very helpful in troubleshooting my gas pack! It was my inducer motor that went bad! Thank you so much for this detailed and informative video!
Glad it helped
Very helpful, and with steady camera and clear audio - much appreciated.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just want to say thank you so much for your videos you put out for us the HVAC community. I learned so much from your videos and I hope The Lord keeps blessing you and your family!
Thank you padillac949, I pray that the Lord may Bless You!
This is one of my favorite hvac/r channels. You do a great job of instructing us new techs.
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for this posting. It led me to find stink bugs migrated to the exhaust fan and jambed the impeller. Fewer than 10 found their way over the summer and fall. I did have to take the fan out to get there. Thanks for the comments that it isn't always the pressure switch.
I have found birds in there from improper coverings on the exhaust.
At 10:03 you talk about blowing out the tubes backwards, that's what worked for me. The hoses themselves were fine, but the tubes they were connected to mustve been plugged. Thank you!
Fired up the heat for the first time this year, not heat. Stuck combustion motor bearing. Pair of needle nose to the shaft, and I'm enjoying heat! Thank you sir!!
Thanks for the help. Saved a bunch of bucks by not calling someone in.
Great video; my inducer fan was not kicking on and i had power going into and coming out of the board; never thought the problem could be the thermostat (since the thermostat looked like it was operating) thank you!!!
Glad to help!
This was very educational and helpful, I am new in the trade and your videos help me a lot. Thank you!
You are a smart teacher. Thanks buddy!
I appreciate that!
Thank you so much. You’re’s videos is one of the best I’ve ever seen. Thank you for showing kinds of inducer motors, and explanation difference between them. I also like grayfurnaceman’s videos. Thank you for your help!!!
Thank you very much Tapch MC!
Where is the link so I can donate. I definitely learned a lot and wanted to show my appreciation and encouragement you give to us all.
For ongoing support of new videos- www.Patreon.com/acservicetech with access to articles
For one time support- paypal.me/acservicetech
Thanks Rich!
Thank you so much for this! I have a brand new variable speed Goodman Furnace in my attic for my second story. When I turn the heat on, heat will come through the registers for ten minutes. Then the inducer motor will shift into a high gear and make a very Loud noise for 90 seconds. It's so loud it sounds like an airplane is taking off. After 90 seconds the inducer motor will either shut down, or shift to a quieter speed. When this happens, all heat will stop coming through the registers. The heat shuts down before reaching the temp the thermostat is set to. My HVAC contractor tried to trouble shoot by taking off the NEST thermostat and hot-wiring the thermostat. Nothing changed. Heat flowed for 10 minutes. Then the inducer motor sped up and sounded like an airplane for 90 seconds. Then the inducer quieted down and the heat shut off completely. Now, my HVAC contractor has no idea what the problem is. Any idea what we should be checking? (Also, my HVAC contractors said there's nothing I can do about the loudness of the inducer motor. It's not due to vibration so suspending it won't help. Plus my attic ceiling is too high to suspend it. I'm in California. He said this type of inducer motor is only required in California. Is there anything I can do about the LOUDNESS??) Thank you again!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
What is that little Amber plastic part on the center of the backside of the induction fan at 0:24 in your video. mine is busted and was in the blower housing. Can I run my furnace with this piece missing?
Great video. You covered a lot of stuff efficiently.
Thanks Steve!
Man love your videos. Keep up the good work. I'm learning a lot from you. Very thorough.
Thanks!
Nobody on TH-cam has still not showed how a 230 volt 2 speed inducer motor is checked it unbelievable but true
Top 2 reasons my expensive to replace ID motor has failed:
1. It's a Goodman
2. It's a Carrier
Good content as always sir!
Ha ha nice!
Thanks for great information.
very educative. Thank you. what is the normal current draw of inducer motor. should the amp clamp be away from the motor as much as possible to reduce effect of induced current due to the motor when it runs . Thank you regards .
Great video. What if the inducer motor won’t turn off. Replaced both pressure switches, all drains free and clear
it may be a thermal sensor that is tripped, thanks!
If you want to support new videos on the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive more HVACR content, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech
All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
Thank you for This Video it helped me Fix my own Furnace :)
Thank you again.
Thanks Tom!
That was very very good and detailed
Thanks pitbullkj E!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge it’s very helpful
Thanks Dan!
first time here, i'll be back !
I had a long night. My inducer motor was not spinning and it seems like the impeller was jamming inside the housing. When I took it off I found the gasket material deteriorated and I suspect it may have jammed up the impeller. Unfortunately I can't open the impeller housing, even with all the screws removed. After freeing up the impeller and reinstalling the motor it worked fine. Now it's working as if nothing happened. The motor is spinning freely. Do I need to worry? We're going away from the house for a while and I need the furnace to work.
Great video. Thank you. Question:
I'm replacing my inducer motor ONLY. I see there's clear silicone around the assembly. My question is, is there any temperarture rating for the silicone? I do not mean the seal betweek the assemlbly and the furnace, which does get hot. TIA
High temp silicone
So if it’s been shutting off and on the whole nite would that be the inducer motor or thermostat?
Thank you so much for this video ❤️
But I have a question
What value of uf is needed for the capacitor to work properly in an induced motor?
Hi, my york YP9C inducer motor has only two wires. How does it able to ramp up and down with only two wires connected. One wire is HOT and the other is NEUTRAL. Thanks.
Always check the t stat and filter first and the the overtemp switches but, Its usually the bearings in the inducer that go bad. Just spinning the motor like you showed can usually show a problem. This can often cause the relay on the board to fail. I just usually power up the inducer motor with jumper leads if it looks ok to test it.
Can you explain the equation at the end? It says start to run = 152ohms but when you got 152 ohms, you were checking with the common wire to one of the capacitor wires. Just a little confused on what start and run are in this scenario.
It is interesting in this scenario that white wire is actually the run while the black is the c. It is just how that motor was wound. I did a double take on it too because the high resistance value is found between the start and run. Thanks, good eyes
Thanks for the information. Great video.
Thanks Daniel!
This is great information! Thanks for posting
Glad it was helpful!
What if resistance on the inducer motor (high stage: black and white wires) is at 7.5 Ohm? Is the motor bad?
Had a loud buzz when the inducer motor kicked on. Tech diagnosed bad inducer so I replaced entire assembly (motor and blower). High efficiency black plastic Fasco. Still have the same loud buzz. Any thoughts? Thanks
If it is the inducer motor, will it give red light blinking codes or will the red light on the board stay solid on?
It really depends on the board and unit. You would need to read the instruction panel of that unit, thanks!
This is a very useful video, but unfortunately, I'm still having an issue. My inducer motor kicks on as it should and doesn't make a bunch of weird noises or anything. I haven't found any clogs. I checked everywhere but the flue, although, I have had the unit serviced regularly for the past few years. I know that doesn't necessarily mean it's clear, but basically, my pressure switch isn't activating. I tried taking the tube off of that and feeling for a vacuum, but I couldn't detect any with my fingers... Should I be able to? All signs are pointing to the pressure switch, but the undetectable vacuum made me second guess that. Any suggestions would be really appreciated!
Did you see this video yet- th-cam.com/video/v9QWIr9TIVU/w-d-xo.html
Results?
@@learnjcbskidsterchickensga7594 I made a manometer with some colored water in a loop of vinyl tubing and confirmed that it had an adequate amount of vacuum. So, it ended up being the pressure switch, and I found one locally for less than $10!
Would a badly rusted heat exchanger cause the motor to not be able to close the pressure switch?
Is there a way to lubricate a motor similar to the very last one you've shown in your video? I have a Bryant 340AAV furnace and the capacitor for the inducer is weak (3.0+-5% is at 2.6). But i also notice unusually amount of stiffness from the motor itself,as well as some minor play in the shaft. Is there someway i can lubricate the unit? I cannot find any ports. Great video btw, I didn't even know to check the tiny rectangle capacitor at 4:55.
Thanks and no that play cannot be corrected. It sounds like if there is stiffness and play that the motor is on its way out, especially if there are no oil ports. Even if there was, oil wouldn't correct the underlying problem of it being worn down. Oiled motors need to have oil added every six months or so, thanks and yes replace that capacitor.
@@acservicetechchannel Thanks, Ive decided to purchases another inducer Assembly unit.
Ok thanks for letting me know powereater!
or could that also be a capacitor on the control board like u were talking about? trying to figure out what the potential issues are
if you have 24v between w and c at the furnace control board but not 120v out to supply the inducer motor and there are no 24v limits open then the problem is the board, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thanks i really appreciate it
Very nice!
Great video! Where can I get a magnet for washer n drier troubleshooting?
I usually get the earth magnets out of bad microwaves and you can get a neodymium magnet out of an old hard drive, thanks
acservicetech thanks! Good to know.
Can a loose d.i.m. make my blower run way to much??
Hello how are you,
My inducer motor start spinning for a split second and stops, it kind of gets stuck.
And when I manually spin the wheel it goes fine.
Is this a matter of just oiling it up? Behind the wheel
Thanks ! That is a good Videos
Thanks Quang!
Good job
Thanks Donnie!
so is it the control board if youre getting 24 volts at r-w but not at w-c while bypassing the thermostat?
You get 24v when measuring between r and c and bypass the tstat between w and c.
our furnace is making noise, was told it was the draft control. Furnace was not ran for a couple years, can you oil them? It didnt spin at first as if it was locked up and he turned it and it did finally start spinning
The type we have is what is in problem 3, it is made just like that one?\
Hi, I am Very thankful your posting and i wanna to ask that My furnace is working but the combustion air inducer seem like very very hot when the prowler is on. I am afraid that is abnormal or is fine? Do I need to change it?
It will get warm depending on the % eff of the furnace and how hot the exhaust is. If you are concerned then it could be changed. If the bearings are going bad then they present a safety concern, thanks
Brother in law calls and says his furnace is not running 60 in house. Used an Ohm meter and found 120V at the inducer blower leads but inducer not running. Watched this video. Then went back to the brother in laws house next door. Was just about to think the inducer blower was bad and tinkered with the leads to the unit at the connection on the blower, and by jarring one, the blower began running. Used a TWISTIE TIE to keep tension on the one wire closer to the other so the blower works and now the furnace runs fine. I fixed his furnace with a TWISTIE TIE--only thing handy at that moment!!! Tomorrow I will review the work and maybe use a zip tie instead. I doubt there is any cure for a bad factory made connector that I can repair and I sure am not going to buy a whole blower.
Got one that im stuck on: Changed induced draft motor, board, pressure switch, and still getting a pressure switch stuck open on a amana 80 percent(3 flashes). Any ideas?
so if you got voltage to inducer and its not coming on and its not the capacitor,then its a bad inducer motor right?
I dropped a wooden shim into the heat exchanger, I'm wanting to take off the black inducer housing to try and obtain it. I'm assuming its a fire hazard.
I am getting 2.4v for the inducer motor. Means card is not giving out 120v. During winter we niticed that blower motor was running but we were not getting heat. Eventullay blower motor stopped working. I am trying to get this running. I did buy a new bord, inducer motor did not turned on. Input will be apporeciated.
My inducer motor starts and runs ok but when the thermestat is done calling for heat the inducer motor starts to cycle on and off. Do you have any idea what it could be
So I can hear my inducer motor working, but it won't close my replacement pressure switch. I read to disconnect the hose between the motor to the pressure switch, blow/suck air and I would hear the click on the pressure switch, which i do. But when I replaced the hose back onto the motor after blowing/sucking through, the furnace won't run on its on. Is it a failing inducer motor?
What if the inducer motor is turning on and off multiple times before ignition? Once there is ignition, it runs normal.
I have a problem where I hear the humming current going through my inducer motor but it's not spinning. I turn off the furnace and start up again and the inducer motor does the same thing. I thought it's the capacitor so I bought a new replacement but it's doing the same thing. I tried spinning the motor by hand and it would go slowly with resistance. But once I turn the furnace off I am able to spin the inducer motor freely. So I don't think the bearings are seized. Any idea to what might be wrong?
Hello i like your videos they are very helpful, thank you i have a problem with my furnace it takes too much time to turn on, i replaced the thermostat but still doing that i don't know if I need to clean the flame rod sensor, could you please tell me what to do.
Thank you.
Have a great day.
Hey Jose , you would need to know if the problem is in the low voltage or sequence of operation. Here is the troubleshooting furnaces playlist for you to see where it stops at. -- th-cam.com/video/k5vEkndMXLI/w-d-xo.html
Hi, I have a carrier infiniti furnace the ecm inducer comes on right away when power is supplied to it without a call for heat. Took off all the thermostat wires thinking it might be the thermostat but still the same, replaced the board already. Could it be the inducer ? Thanks
N sahar, i have the same problem where you able to find the problem?
If the motor does say”sealed bearings” and only has a hole in the front toward the blower wheel, can you oil it?
My motor was stiff. I removed and let it run on the ground. It started a little slow, but started running. I heard something loose in the housing when I removed it. Found a piece of gravel. Not sure if it was in it already, or if I somehow got it in it when I laid it on the ground. I don’t think I did actually but have no good idea how a piece of gravel from the drive could have gotten in it. Rodent?
Also, the motor only has two wires going to it. They honed at 49 ohms I think it was. It is a 220 volt motor.
The problem is you dont want that to be running with stiff bearings and catch on fire. That is a real thing that seems to happen to inducer motors more than any other component. You may want to consider replacing that, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC I meant to say the motor is notstamped “sealed”
I did get the motor spinning a little more freely, but only ran for a little bit. Getting back on it today as was dark and cold when I last checked it. I suspect the bearings got hot and caused the motor to overheat.
Not sure I am getting power to the motor now as it did seem to get warm like it first did when I noticed it.
I will check for 220-230 at the board that supplies power to the two wires going to the motor again.
I do think It is best to replace the motor since the windings, bearings and or thermal protector may be damaged. I had thought of replacing the bearings, but this thing is about 19 or 20 years old.
The only service it has ever had was when I cleaned the coils a time or two and replaced capacitor.
Does 44 ohms sound right for the motor? It only has two wires going to it, red and yellow from the board.
Found the immediate problem. When I bundled the wires up again with the zip tie, I pulled a blue wire off the relay. The motor was still very slow to start, but it did eventually get up to what I think is the correct speed and the heater fired up.
Going to let it run a little and check the motor for getting warm.
Update: I let it run for a little bit. I suspected the motor was still stiff because it would move very slowly when trying to run. I boosted a little a few times with a screw driver against the fins inside the motor until it got moving faster and it finally got up to speed. but, it got too hot to lay my hand on for very long.
Motor time. :(
I got a no heat call. I set the stat to heat the inducer runs but the pressure switch is stuck open so no flame, I touched it and it was hot but not scorching hot I think I'm going to swap it out
Help! My turns on but goes off within seconds and codes read 115v reverse. Any idea
Were can I get the blower motor oil,could I use some hoppes 9
Zoom Spout Oiler- amzn.to/2taeO4l -and if you are looking for anything else I have most things linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech thanks
Yeah or you can just go to your local hardware store and get your Zoom spout Oiler
Thanx for the video!
Thanks Summit!
Awesome! So helpful!
Thanks SD!
So if I get 0 reading at w and ground with r and w jumped at the thermostat, then the wiring from thermostat to furnace is bad?
Yes if you do have 24v at the board actually going to the R at the tstat
Hi. I appreciate your channel. I have a Lennox system. The first time I attempted to use the Heat Cycle this season, it did not start the shaded pole inducer motor. No sysytem error messages. I assumed bad motor and replaced. Still does not start motor. I verified thermostat continuity. What should I check next?
After you turn your thermostat to heat, inside the furnace, do you have 24v read with a multimeter from w to c? If not, you are not getting a signal to the control board to start the heat sequence, thanks!
during normal operations the inducer runs constantly. without stopping. if I short cycle(my own term in which I turn stat up requesting heat and once squirrel cage engages I physically turn stat down 10 degrees below ambient; blower stops & internals retained heat raises enough for a second blower run to cool- maybe a minute or two. After this "short cycle" when blower stops the inducer also stops. I find this as the only way to stop inducer motor. What am I experiencing?
Good evening
I have a Heil furnace and the blower keeps going on even the thermostat off. Did change the control board. I’m getting 120 volts into the control board but not getting 120 volts to the inducer. Any suggestions what I can do so see what’s causing the problem. Sorry forgot to mention I did check the thermostat and like I said the control board got swap and still doing the same thing even with the new board
If your changing inducer motor and it starts raining on you and your control board gets wet that is exposed. Will you wait a day for it to dry before you turn it on? Water damages these electrical components no ?
We usually try to build a temporary shelter if possible to keep the rain off. I know there is only so many things we can fit in the truck and for a service tech, it is hard to tell what the day holds or what if any special precautions you would need to take ahead of time. You could use one of your towels from the truck to gently wipe off the components and then for something like a control board use a heat gun far enough away to dry the water off the board without getting the board really hot. You seem to understand what is needed and am sure you will take precautions when needed. We just do what we can but we don't work on live electric in the rain or stand in water puddles while diagnosing live equipment. Just stay safe and try to communicate your concerns to your boss and try to think of every precaution you can take to get the job done. In a scenario like that, it is easier when you are the boss because it is easy for you to make the call. Other than that being a boss isn't easy ha ha.
Why does the inducer motor kick on when the wires are removed from the gas valve
I'm so confused, when ohming out the windings why do the run and common flip flop?
If an inducer motor is some how shorted to where it runs non stop would it create a false command for heat, to where the "w" terminal on the control board is disconnected and the inducer motor, blower motor and gas all run non stop except to cycle off for overheating?
I am assuming that you are talking a variable or ecm motor, in that case, it shouldn't feed any 24v to w or make the furnace think it should be in heat mode, thanks
Darn, well i have all thermostat wires disconnected from the circuit board, furnace is blowing hot all the time except for overheat protection, i do have 27volts at the w terminal and .8 ohms between w and r terminals. I replaced the circuit board and same problem. Am i missing something else or is my problem just shorting out the new circuit board
The inducer on my Heil 80% single stage repeatedly cycles on and off when the furnace is not calling for heat. After the furnace fan cycles off, the inducer runs on and off for about 20 minutes. Pressure switch checks out for proper voltage, tubing had a few drops of water in it. No vent obstructions either. I turn the furnace down to 58 degrees at night and this is when it occurs.
Is it just the inducer and not the blower motor? What type of ignition system does it have? HSI or spark direct ignition or pilot ignition? Does it have a board or other controls?
Just the inducer runs. It has an HSI igniter and no mother board. It's 23 yrs. old and just started doing this a few months ago. The gas valve was replaced 10 yrs. ago, and the igniter 2 yrs. ago.
Exactly what is the switch then that is turning the power on to the inducer? Is it a certain type of relay? Follow the wires from the inducer to the switch and let me know, thanks
Inducer: One wire grounded, the other goes to a terminal block, Heil # HQ1009836HW. The only update to the HVAC was done 6 months ago; a Broan HVR was added (I live in the Northeast U.S.). The Broan ties into the cold air return duct and heat supply. I am going to disconnect the Broan, the ducts and cover the cut-outs, just to rule that out.
That Heil number is a control board. If you are not getting 24v from w to c on the low voltage control board when this is happening and if a safety switch is not tripping temporarily when this is happening then the problem would be the control board, thanks
Any idea why an inducer would PULSE? I replaced the limit switch in September and that seemed to fix it, however yesterday the pulsing has returned?/
Usually that is due to a restriction in the exhaust such as water filling up a section of the exhaust pipe to the exhaust condensing while traveling through the pipe but the problem is that the piping is not pitched at 1/4" of pitch or higher upwards as it travels away from the furnace. That would be my guess, and make sure to also clean out the furnace condensate line, thanks
I have been having an issue for a few years now, where my inducer will occasionally attempt to start a few times, before it stays on. It does not do it all the time, sometimes it starts normally. But other times it may start/stop a few times before finally staying on for a complete heat cycle. I put a clamp meter on the power wire, and can see the amps going from 1.5 to 0.0 - when it acts up like that.
I thought that indicated a bad control board, so I got another board last year, which did not resolve the issue. Last year I disconnected the vacuum from the mounting screws and checked that it was clicking when I sucked on the vacuum hose. It was. And the vacuum port to the inducer was clear also. Funny thing, I just left it hanging and the start/stop issue seemed to stop. Does that make any sense? I eventually remounted the vacuum switch, and did not notice the problem again until this year. This year the inducer is doing the start/stop occasionally again. Not always, but occasionally. What could be the problem?
I have a video here that shows the issue.
th-cam.com/video/IdkmydTMoNc/w-d-xo.html&lc=z23yundwnwfjul3lhacdp432vlmrbhpa1i5tzt0cnh1w03c010c.1576782577825593&feature=em-comments
I have the same exact issue with my furnace. I checked everything. When it happens, there is no power to the inducer motor from the control board, so I replaced the control board. Same issue. I replaced the inducer motor. Same issue. I replaced the pressure switch . Same issue. Thermostat is new and performing as it should. Wiring is good. This is driving me nuts. There is nothing left to check. What is causing this?
@@dennisnagel1037 Replacing the vacuum switch is the one thing I didn't try, and the one thing I thought could be the cause of the problem. Thanks for letting me know it did not resolve your problem. I wish I knew the answer. It seems nobody knows!
Hi Dennis, I ended up buying a new vacuum switch, and that solved my problem.
I read about a voltage test that can be done on the vacuum switch. When the vacuum switch is closed it should read 0 volts. When it is open it should read Around 27 volts. When I tested my old switch, in the closed position , it very often was reading any where from 0.1 to 0.3 volts. It got me thinking that perhaps the old switch was not closing all the way and that's why there was a slight voltage reading . I don't know for sure that's only a guess on my part . Anyways, That made me buy a new vacuum switch and now my furnace starts up without any hesitations all the time. For a few weeks. Actually it's been working great. Maybe that's your problem also? I ordered the switch online for a place called supplyhouse.com I think it was. It looks slightly different but the functionality is the same.
Oh, and the way I tested for voltage, once I slipped the to contacts about halfway off the Tang's on the vacuum switch. That way I could attached the alligator clips from my multimeter, and see the voltage ratings as the furnace would start up and stop. Very simple test to do actually. The only thing is my first was tripping off and on so quickly do I sometimes hard to read the multimeter measurements as they were changing very quickly to.
Let me know if this helps you at all.
What would make the inducer reverse after the burners cut on?
After the gas ignites, the inducer just shuts off and then turns back on backwards?
AC Service Tech LLC
Yes never seen it before I thought maybe the polarity was backwards but that wasn’t it even unhooked vent to verify no obstruction. Also new install bryant 80%
On an ac motor you cant switch the direction with polarity like in a dc motor. What were you reading with the multimeter during all of this?
119v
Was the inducer a psc or variable speed and were you loosing voltage when it stopped and then before it changed direction?
Great video, but couldn’t get far as my problem happened early... I don’t have any voltage on control board from r to c or (w to c) I also tried jumping the thermostat and nothing. Furnace originally reading a “Pressure switch open fault” I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong...
What is causing the blower wheel to rust
A byproduct of the flame is water vapor and this is what rots it out over time if i is just galvanized tin, thanks
I live in an apartment complex of 110 units, and we have had several inducer draft motors with bearing failures that often don't get replaced right away, but make noise that I can often hear months before the tenant or landlord hears! Anyway, I was curious why these motors run ALL THE TIME, even when just the AC is on! Does the inducer draft blower serve any function when the AC is running, and if not, why have it running for hundreds of hours during the cooling season if it's not needed? One other issue: in twenty years, my unit needed service when a hornets' nest was built in June 2005, my first year here. I've learned since to run the heat (furnace) five minutes a week during the time from about April until the end of June, to discourage pests! - j q t -
Can someone help me?
I'm having a problem with the inducer....
It keeps running and won't stop ....even it's on auto ..
It should stop when the room is within temp right ?
Plz help me
Thank you for this video, I can hear my inducer motor turn on and off a few times in a five minute period in the wee hours of the morning. The thermostat is off (no call for heat) When I do call for heat everything works fine and efficient. Do you know what could cause this? thank you in advance.
Is the inducer a psc or a shaded pole or a variable speed? In this question, psc and shaded pole would fall in the same category.
Not sure. I do know its only one speed. L.P. Carrier. I am just retired glazer and not real knowledgeable with electronics. thank you for responding.
I am worried the inducer fan is turning on because of L.P. leak, although I do not smell L.P.
Is there a low pressure gas switch? Try taking the tstat face off temporarily when you wake up to see if it is tstat that is the problem.
Ill check.. thank you.
I never oil nothing on any furnace when a fire guess who the inc. co. Will blame? I replace ind. Seen it bfore
I found my induction motor would not always start up and it seems to be due to "play" in the way it is attached to the housing (perhaps just from time, since it is over 20 years old). I could not find a way to tighten things down to the housing / mount, so I attached a strap to help secure the motor. It had to be in the right place, so I've needed to tweak it. However, not sure the strap will stay put long term, but it seems to help stablize the motor. It seems the only real fix is to replace the motor, they come with the mounts... I was hoping for a less expensive fix. Ideas welcome.
If the inducer motor is hot 170 degrees that means that is bad, or locked?
Ruben, here is a video on thermal cutout on a blower motor. It could be broken down resin on the motor windings or locked rotor- th-cam.com/video/IBg0EZg0ohY/w-d-xo.html
Did you see it spin when power was applied, maybe a bad capacitor? I was assuming that you saw it spinning at that temp
Thanks, it never came on and the tempeture was rising from 70 slow to a 170. 3 intermittent lights on the board but I didn't find the troubleshooting guide on the board.
Was it a psc motor and did it have a metal or small black plastic capacitor. If it didn't come on, it could have been a capacitor. Did you try free spinning it to see if the bearings were stuck? Thanks
I had a tech come over and get the inducer motor going again by using the screwdriver tip you gave. He then said I need a new inducer motor without testing it or anything. It’s been working fine since yesterday afternoon and I can’t help but wonder if I really do need a new one yet especially if he didn’t test anything. Please help. :-(
If it was an inducer that has oil ports and they were not oiled over a long period and the motor seized, the bearings would be low on oil and would have degraded. In that case you would need a new inducer. The only issue is you don't want the bearings to break and the motor to continue to run which could burn up the bearings. I have seen them light on fire before. I just wanted to share that to stay on the side of caution if that is what happened, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC I went home after work and it wasn’t working again. It was trying to work and overheating, so I turned off the gas emergency switch. Looks like we definitely need a new one. I had a feeling those could potentially cause a fire. Yikes! Thank you for your help.
Glad to help Tree Sa!
Great 👍🏼 educational video !
Thank you for posting and sharing
Thanks Mason!
I'm getting water in the vacuum line from the inducer to the pressure switch. As far as I can tell, all my drain lines are clear. What could be causing this issue?
Sounds like the trap is clogged and the water is backing up into the tube. Check this video out- th-cam.com/video/guf3TESb3V0/w-d-xo.html
My inducer motor turns on then off, on then off when there is no call for heat and even when the heater is in the off position. This happens in the wee hours of the morning. Any idea why? thank you! I should add that I do not hear a flame and the blower never turns on, just the inducer fan cycles on and off many times.
When you don't need heat any more for the season you should disconnect the tstat wires at the control board and see if it still happens at night. Unfortunately intermittent problems sometimes take a little more digging in order to find the problem. I would try that temporarily first, thanks Gary!
Will do,Thank you..
Forgot to mention xv90 unit. The thermal limit was checked also.
Armstong furnace gas, induced draft blower won't start, spins freely, I don't get flame, what would cause the problem. Thermostat calls for heat main fan runs blowing cold air, hear the
heat pump starting. I am lost. Help.
Bad Inducer motor capacitor? Did you measure voltage at the inducer motor? Did you read resistance values across windings with the power off and wires disconnected?
how to test the variable speed inducer motor?
Hey brother, I didn't look, but, do u have a video in how to properly use a dual manometer? I'm going to get one soon, and, while I know how to use it, be nice to watch a refreshing video lol tia!
Hey Summit M18 HVAC, here are three videos on the subject and to links to the manometers I use - th-cam.com/video/v9QWIr9TIVU/w-d-xo.html -- th-cam.com/video/QAEBLigVD5g/w-d-xo.html -- th-cam.com/video/9DAEZvkyO9A/w-d-xo.html -- and here are the links to the two I use- Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka -- UEI Digital Dual Manometer- amzn.to/2CWC6BD
When the thermostat calls for heat the inducer motor turns on then off immediately. Three lights flashing. After a few minutes it trys to start again. It may do this once, twice, 3, 4 times before it stays on. This doesn`t happen all the time. For a week it may start every time. Its an erratic issue. When this happens: thermostat is sending 24 volts to the board. there is no power to the inducer motor from the control board, I can hear the blower relay click on then off, so I replaced the control board. Same issue. I replaced the inducer motor. Same issue. I replaced the pressure switch . Same issue. Thermostat is new and performing as it should, it is sending 24 volts to board. Wiring is good. This is driving me nuts. There is nothing left to check. What is causing this?
Try replacing the Transformer. Unless it is a good 24vac at all times even when it did not come on and stay on.
Hey Dennis did you ever figure it out? I have the same problem,loses voltage at the board after the inducer fan runs for about 1 second.If i turn the furnace off and try again it will
eventually start and run normally.I think it s the board but not 100% sure. Thanks man have a good day.