ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มิ.ย. 2023
- Matthew gives you a crash course on the difference between FDM and Resin 3D Printing, along with his recommendations for both.
Matthew's 3d printer recommendations: www.miniwargaming.com/3d
Buy some awesome 3d printable hex map tiles:
www.miniwargaming.com/hexton
with my brand new 3d printer, i decided to print a 3d printer. I returned the printer i bought, and now i got a free printer.
Instructions unclear. Purchased two printers. Please advise.
Great video. I like how you provided unbiased reviews based on your experiences and you kept things in basic terms without getting overly technical - ease of startup, reliability, quality.
Nice shirt too.
Really cool to see printing get more and more attention. It's come quite a ways and I'm all for it.
It really has! In just the past year the tech has improved a lot.
@@MWGForgeyou took the words out of my mouth. I've had so many crapoy i3 clones but have a corexy now. I have a ton of Vallejo and game paints along with a paint booth but have yet to use it haha. I'm building rcs, gifts and custom lighting for friends. Creality are still the leading brand because they sell so much but I had a neptune 4 for my last printer and put 1000 hours on it in 5 months. I only paid 300caf for it, the prusa mk3 is almost 2k foe the kit in Canada. I'd love to have the xl tool changer. Funny, the mk3 costs more in Canada than the bambux1. Only about 100 but still.
Matt, this is FANTASTIC! LOVE IT! I have been interested in getting into the 3D printing scene for a while now, but have been hesitant due to many factors. One being that I didn't know anyone with experience on this and that I also trusted, to get their first-hand thoughts and advice on the topic. I'm in and looking forward to the next video!
Thanks! Feel free to ask questions in the comments! I’ll need lots of questions to make all of the videos I want to make.
I do it this way: scenery and terrain on FDM, mini's on resin. If you only buy one, these are advantages or disadvantages.
FDM:
lower price ompared to resin printers (the most expensive FDM's are obviously more expensive than the cheapest resin printers, but you have to take relative quality into account)
lower cost for materials (PLA is cheaper than resin)
less hassle, less clean up, not dealing with potentially hazardous and flammable products
BUT: if you want small detail, you can get that on modern FDM printers, but not nearly as sharp as resin for similar quality and price ranges
Resin:
higher detail, especially for very small scale details
when printing multiple models of similar size, the resin printer is waaaaaaaaay faster than FDM (FDM prints each layer on a single model at a time, while a resin printer prints the same layer on all mini's at the same time)
BUT: more expensive to buy, more expensive to operate (both the price of resin, but also the washing and curing stations, and the IPA you need), and you have more work cleaning and setting up the printer. I also do not keep my resin indoors, but in the (well ventilated) shed. If you have no room to safely have your resin printer work, I'd not go for a resin printer to be honest, but that is just me. Overly cautious perhaps, but "better safe than sorry" has always been my motto.
Hello, I was interested in buying a 3D printer should I get a FDM for first time people like me?
I precieve it more of "neet I have a cool gadget" rather than something of a useful tool. The only thing I could think of using is maybe replacing missing parts on my items.
@@oldbonniegamer938 Really depends on what you want to do.
I'd say FDM printers are easier to use, but honestly both modern FDM and resin printers have been build in such a way that they are easy to set up, without too much hassle. It is just that resin printers do require some more work when using them and when cleaning them. You need more accessories as it were: cleaning station, curing station, gloves, isopropyl alcohol.
If you are not looking for a printer that can print the superduperest, crispiest details, I'd say a modern midrange FDM printer will fulfill your hobby needs. If you really get into the hobby and feel you want that GW model kind of detail (or lets be honest, even beyond that), you can always buy a resin printer later on. But that is just my opinion.
@@allasar I guess I'd like to dip my toes first before invest or commiting to the 3D printing. What's a good price range for entry or midrange 3D printers?
@@oldbonniegamer938 Ooh, I am no expert in brands by any means, so I do not know if I am the right person to ask. I did buy a anycubic kobra 2 and I am very happy with that buy. If you are interested in buying an FDM printer, there are lots of detailed reviews on youtube. Give them a watch, I'd say. People reviewing the printers have more experience with different brands and models than I do.
great video, my 10 year old just started with his toybox 3d printer and he already is fascinated and glued onto the hobby side, as i am myself. thank you
BOOYAH! Glad to see this channel starting up, and I look forward to seeing what all 3d shenanigans Matt gets up to... even if it does look like he's stuck in a commercial kitchen with that range hood in the background. 😂
Thanks. Great video. Short and concise with tons of info still
Man, thank you! Direct to the point, with advices based on experience.
Thank you for an awesome and informative video! I've been wanting to get into this for a long time, but most of the people I know who 3d print do it for reasons other than wargaming. It's nice to hear a wargamer's perspective.
On another note, I do miss watching the sit and talks! I'm looking to start my own music studio with a focus on wargaming/board gaming. It was awesome to hear your perspective on the business/behind-the-scenes side of things as I've never thought about starting my own business until now. Please start those up again! I have lots o' questions!
Maybe I should do a Sit and Talk for 3D printing? Would that be interesting?
@@MWGForge Oh yea! I would love that!
Glad I decided to procrastinate instead of work on Art commissions rn because I found this video, I gotta say after researching getting into 3d printing for a few weeks I can respect what you are saying here, the printers I've bookmarked for buying are all recommended by you so its good to see a vetran validating several assumptions. Also nice channel & content, Subbed.
Thanks so much! I'm going to keep posting videos as I get more experience with these printers to see how they work long term.
I have no interest in 3d printing atm but I still watched this for some reason.
Same ☺️
That’s a kind compliment. Thanks!
That’s how it starts….
Your missing out.
Way more options for models.
Most are far higher quality than GWs garbage models.
Not to mention it's much much cheaper than their trash.
I haven't bought anything GW since the beginning of 2019 when I got a resin printer.
Mountains of terrain with the pla printer.
It's awesome.
I'll also add that you can get the Bambulabs P1P printer for half the cost of the Prusa Mk4 printer. It has all the important features of the X1C printer. Same speed etc. It's by far the best printer on the market. If you have a use case for an enclosure you can get the P1S which is a P1P with enclosure
Well, you obviously have an interest in 3D printing 👀
Or you like looking at the guy in the video 😬
Matthew! Get out of my head!
Knowing nothing about printing this was my 1st question.
Love the new 3D Forge content, and thank you for the consistent quality from your other productions.
Awesome! Thank you!
This is perfect - I've been printing in Resin, it takes a much more involved setup, and printing anything large is difficult (cut ups and whatnot) and supports eat up a ton of resin. My biggest question was whether I could save by printing tools, structural stuff and terrain on FDM.
What I love with resin printing is that if I divide the model to few parts, connecting them is much easier and higher quality than with FDM. If you have cheap FDM and need to connect 2 prints you will quickly find out that surface imperfections force you to a lot of sanding, which is very bad. With Resin there usually is no sanding - or maybe minimal due to shrinkage.
I don't think that you can print with any of these 2 technologies any tools that have some structural strength - you would need metal. Generally 3D printed tools are either some kind of supports/shapers etc. or just for show.
The qidi x-plus 3 is better than the bambu imo, bigger build volume, heated chamber and 400 dollars cheaper.
Hi, I don't know anything about 3d printing but I find it amazing. I'd like to print some juwellery so, I guess, I need to go resin. Thank you and looking forward for your next videos.
This video cuts tot he chase quicker than any other video I've seen which is great. Also appreciate your recommendations, I already have a Sonic Mighty 8k and enjoying it and have been eying a Bambulabs P1S for the filament side.
Thanks! Yeah I don’t like when videos take a long time to say something that doesn’t need a long explanation. :)
Great video! Wow, I've never seen a PLA print as smooth as the X1 Carbon outputs. I've just been getting into 3d printing..my first 3d printer was the Ender 3..darn, that thing was noisy ..lol. I bought the Longer LK5 Pro as an upgrade...it's dead silent and much bigger build capacity and at least has a bed leveling routine built in to the software (not Auto, but still pretty easy process) ..I would recommend it too if someone doesn't have the money to buy one of the higher end printers.
you seem to be the right guy for me to ask this question, I build HO scale dioramas for now until I can build my train layout. I know there are alot of kits out there of buildings to put together, but I'm always scared to try them for fear of F'ing them up. So, I figure maybe 3D printing my buildings would be better, but I'm not sure which one I should really be looking into.
Like I said I'm a beginner to everything diorama builds and to 3D printing, what I'm mainly wanting is something that could print out for example an HO scale farmhouse, where after it's all set and cleaned up I can go right into painting it... what are your thoughts and which 3D printer do you feel I should start looking at?
Do Reisn printers need software updates?
I have found my Ender 5 plus a nightmare ever since I installed the v2.2 silentboard. I can't get a print now do to bed either not going up high enough or crashing into nozzle.
I hope resin printers don't have firmware issues.
I want a large resin printer for life size models.
I don't care about speed, only detail. So thinking either the Phrozen 8k mega I tbink its called. Its the largest one and its all metal or the anycubic M5.
I'll xheck out the Bambu printer though. Figure out if detail will be a big difference.
This has been great! I’m looking into doing both, but definitely leaning towards terrain. I don’t really have a good ventilated room for resin. Do weather conditions effect the quality of resin prints (if I wanted to do it in my garage)?
awesome question, i was woundering the same.
Temperature changes over night can and will effect resin print, unless you have a resin heater in your 3D printer (more expensive)
for resin printing you really want it to be in a temperature controlled environment (most resins will print better above 20C with around 25C-30C being the sweet spot) if the temperature is lower than that then the resin is way less viscous . the runnier it is the better because then it can flow more easily between the build plate and vat (the standard layer height for resin tends to be 50 microns (0.05mm) most recent resin printers can go below that (some as low as 19 microns layer height) so the resin has to be fluid enough to get into that tiny gap.
a garage is probably a bit too cold.
the temperature of the resin will have an effect on the exposure time you need so keeping it constant will produce better quality more accurate prints.
if your garage is lets say 15C you will need a longer exposure time per layer than the same model printed on the same printer in a room that is 20C.
if the temperature of the room changed during the duration of the print (say it gets colder) then the exposure time would also need to change and that is not feasible to do mid print. for a perfect exposure time you need the temperature of the resin to be constant
Awesome video. You were extremely clear on what you were saying especially since not many people are talking from a miniature/terrain point of view. Thanks! 1 question: If I am getting the Filament printer due to ventilation and costs, are there any that you would recommend to get quality details in printing miniatures? (I know you said it doesn't get as good quality)
The Bambu P1P is my favourite FDM printer right now. It’s your best bet for quality. www.MiniWarGaming.com/r/p1p
I had been looking for a quick comparison between 3D printer technologies but every video I found was a shout-fest, meme-obsessed, ADHD-produced, "reaction"-style mess. That is, until I watched yours. Thank you for a hypeless, grown up explanation that was actually very informative.
Great job! Thank you🎉
Didn't realize MWG had started a "forge" channel! Excited to see more videos on the topic.
Thanks for checking it out! I’m quite excited to make more content about 3D printing and other manufacturing processes.
Our first 3D printer was the Ender 3D Neo and I’m not so much in agreement that IT actually breaks down so much as we are beginners and don’t know much of what we’re doing that first 6 months. I do agree that all the fussing we do with it either keeps us printing with more knowledge, or knocks us out. Well, we still print with the Ender 3 and added the Bambu X1C to the mix…love them both!
thank you . i'm new entry and your guide help me alot
Glad to hear it!
Would you recommend starting with a resin or FDM printer? I want to print minis but I don't really have a space with good ventilation and I'm inexperienced so I'm leaning towards FDM but I still wonder what you'd recommend, thank you!
Resin is easier to learn. there's far less of a learning curve with resin compared to FDM. the downside is the toxicity of the resin and the post print cleanup process.
it could take days (and a lot of failed prints) to dial in an FDM printer but a resin printer can be set up and printing within 5 minutes by pretty much anybody
a resin printer really only has 1 moving part whereas an FDM printer has many moving parts. resin printers are just far simpler machines mechanically
although with the more modern FDM printers they are getting easier to set up for beginners
Hello, i wanna just 3d priniting hobby - minifig, statues, etc, would u recommend going for ender 3 v2 neo or just something like elegoo saturn 3, they cost mostly same
7:57 what specs should I look out for in the nozzle if I want it to print smooth surfaces?
I have a question if I may ask: if somebody would ask you to print a component or part which is highly detailed, but that requires to be used in high temperature environment such as above 100°C (212F) which printer you would recommend? FDM or Resin? If Resin what resin could be used for such use cases?
Siraya Tech Sculpt High-Temp 3d print resin can handle up to 180C and be accurate, these resins usually require a hot environment to also cure which may be more difficult for 3d resin printers to active unless you have a heater installed on the vat or case.
Very informative
Glad it was helpful!
I have been considering getting into 3D printing for a while. I am into model railways and wanted to be able to print out scenery, buildings and wagons. I am new to it all, and wanted to start with FDM as it is much safer that resin, although I know that resin gives better results. I have read numerous good reviews on the Bambulab printers but can't stretch to the X1C. 😢 However the P1S does appear to be almost as good, and is a lot cheaper! Have you had a chance to see the P1S yet, and what do you think of it? Thanks!
I haven't used the P1S, mainly because I don't care about its features, which are mainly important to people printing in other materials. I'd highly recommend the P1P as it is cheaper and will do everything you need. www.miniwargaming.com/p1p
Having said that, if you're printing really small scale stuff for model railroading, you'll probably want to figure out resin 3D printing as there will be certain things that you just won't be able to do with FDM (at least right now).
Buildings and landscaping definitely work well with FDM, but if you're doing details like sign posts and people then resin will be your best friend for that.
You can see all my 3D printer recommendations at www.miniwargaming.com/3d
I was curious about one of the points you had raised. I have not seen anyone else reference layer lines on the Bambu Lab printers being any worse or better than any other high-end FDM printers. To be clear, are you seeing that regardless of materials, or are you using a material that tends to show layer lines less to begin with?
So you recommend the bambu x1c over their p1p? I was sold on the p1p but I definitely don’t want to replicate my ender 3 history want something that works well and low maintenance right out of the box..
I made a video after this changing my recommendation to the P1P.
I need to make models for Spin Casting that will need to go through the Vulcanizing Process which is high-pressure and around 300 -350*F. Traditionally I believe they used FDM with Polycarbonate (PC). Have you used this type of filament with the Bamboo Labs X1 Carbon or know of it? I definitely want to avoid print lines.
The X1 carbon looks great but that resin printer looks perfect to do small details and they look perfectly smooth. Do you know of a resin that is used in the model making that can survive the vulcanizing process? I think Nicem makes some but their info on their own product is lacking greatly on how to use it.
Thanks for the help
I haven't done this, but I would avoid using FDM printers for mold making. Even with the precision of the Bambu Labs printers there are still some lines that would show through.
I have been testing for a few months with a Bambulab P1P and I have gotten amazing results with warhammer miniatures, I made an entire grey knights army with callidus assassin for the people who know.
I barely see anyone talk about fdm miniature printing but if you like we could take a dive into it and make it more popular.
Could be a great video I think
I'm surprised that you can get those results with FDM. I'd be curious to know how well they could do.
I'll have to look into this.
@MWGForge do you want to have a talk over discord someday?
I have changed quite a number of settings, although I know there is still a lot of room for improvements.
I would really like it if there was a place to talk and learn from each other in fdm miniature printing.
How big are your miniatures? I am looking to make some in a 1:48 or 38mm scale.
@kennethkimble2730 i currently have a tyranid and grey knight army.
Grey knights are decently easy to print on fdm, and tyranid is with a decent few changes also hard to distinguish from official models (on the table top)
I have both. Theyre compementary. I make detailed miniatures with the resin printer, and tools, protypes and big prints with fdm.
Sounds like I want to get both types eventually.
With your mighty 8k's what are you finding a good lift speed and height? Do you use TMSC?
Right now I use the defaults that come with the resin. Phrozen is working on new firmware and a new ACF film that should drastically speed things up (they claim 6x faster, but we'll see). I'll make a video about this once they do it.
I’m looking to get my first 3D printer, should I get a resin printer or filament printer?
I have a Creality Ender 3 Pro and it really is signing up for 3D printing as a hobby. It prints great after a number of upgrades and I would say it’s hardly the same printer anymore.
Been using the ender 3v2 for a few days and it's amazing. I know I'm behind the curve in terms of innovation in the space, but its a great start for me
nice video i have a FDM printer which i print statues and figures. Was thinking would it be better if i had a resin one.
Resin will look nicer for sure, but there is a lot to think about for safety which can make it harder to do at home.
@@MWGForge I have my very own garage that I’m making into a collection room.
I am looking for a printer that I can do miniatures in a 1:48/38mm scale. I don't have space to deal with the toxic fumes. I don't have a ton of money. What would you recommend?
Resin printers will give you the best quality for something that small, you can get a printer capable of that under $300-$200, you can vent your room or use a activated carbon filter to help absorb most of the toxic fumes.
I'd like to get something for printing G1 transformers parts. Need to do my homework.
Those were some sexy 'Nids! Really informative, thank you! For someone in a not well ventilated basement suite who wants to do minis. Is resin still a good idea?
I think resin is the only real option for printing minis. If you have a window then you can build an enclosure for your printer and then have a fan push the fumes out through the window.
What type of printer would you recommend to make polymer clay cutters? Bearing in mind I’d like to make multiple cutters of the exact same file at one time if this can be done?
I would get a resin printer, the edges that can be made with a 30 micron resolution printer at .03 layer hight can easily cut clay, you can make as many clay cutters as you can fit into the bed of the resin printer faster than with FDM.
I got the qidi x-plus 3 insead of the bamboo. Bigger build area and heated chamber
I appreciate these videos. I'm hoping to get into 3D printing down the line. I really know nothing at the moment.
It can be tough to get started. Hopefully I can make videos that will help with that learning curve.
Does temperature effect resin printing? I live in the Netherlands, so night time in winter is kinda cold outside, and I have a garage/brick shed that I could put a printer in. I don't want to invest in a printer if its not usable, but you've really sold me on printing
Resin is heavily effected by temperature, most resin have to be above 25C for best results, below 20c and it will fail, you can buy a heater that fits inside the case for around $70.
Weird question perhaps, but can you place your 3D printer in like a garage or outhouse that isn't necessarily heated? Or does it need to be inside the house at room temperature?
Not weired, ots actually one of the most critical aspects of resin printing, The printer needs to be at a stable ambient 25-30C for best results with most resins, below 20C and the print is likely to fail, you can buy heaters for the printers but newer printer models are coming with built in heaters.
Very nice video. The top 3D printer you recommend, the filament and resin ones, are kinda expensive, but considering the awesome results you get, they turn to be not as expensive as I thought they would be. IDK, maybe times changed and now 3D printing is not as expensive as it was in the beginning, or maybe these are "affordable" 3D printers.
I just started printing with resin and I’m getting some fantastic quality
Good to hear!
Assume you are using the 0.4 nozzle on the X1, have you tried the 0.2 nozzle yet? Rumour has it that quality is very much comparable to resin printing.
I haven't tried yet. I mainly print terrain, so a huge increase in quality wouldn't be too noticeable. I might have to try this at one point though.
so are they 6x faster now? some time has passed since the video
If you build your own Prusa, you know how to take it apart and put it together, if something does go wrong.
As someone that had an i3 mega for a while without too many issues, I'm curious what issues you had that would make you not recommend them.
We've owned six of them, and five of them have totally stopped working. The hot ends had to be replaced frequently, and one by one they all would just stop printing mid print with no indication as to why. We troubleshooted the heck out of them and couldn't figure it out, but eventually they all succumbed to the same problem. We could only assume it was something on the motherboard, which was beyond our experience to fix at the time.
@@MWGForge When you say that they would stop printing, do you mean that they would just freeze and be stuck like that until you restart the printer?
If so, that might have been an issue with the SD card reader. I ran into that issue and figured out that if I slipped a bit of cardstock into the slot with the sd card to hold it tighter to the terminals, then as long as it's able to read the sd card when the print starts, it won't get shaken loose (or whatever was going on) mid-print.
I'm an engineer and do a lot of prototyping etc. Which makes stronger prints?
FDM printers for sure. You'll need a printer that can print in materials such as ABS if you want to print stronger parts.
What did you dislike about the AnyCubic Mega printers? I have 2 Mega S printers one that has been rocking for 4 years and other than nozzles and hot ends I haven't had to replace anything. I did upgrade to silicone tubes instead of leveling springs and Capricorn tubing.
We have six of them, and we had non stop issues with all of them. The sensors often gave false negatives about being out of FDM. 3 of them have had thermal runaway issues that we couldn’t fix. The hot ends needed to be replaced far more often than they should.
They’re also very slow compared to our other printers.
@@MWGForge I 100% agree that they are very slow at 50 mms print speed but I have been happy with the print quality versus all of the Ender 3 prints I see. I am planning on upgrading to a Bamboo Labs before the year is up though.
If you want to have more fun with acronyms many resin printers are also referred to as SLA printers Stereolithography (SLA)
Can this create silicone earplugs like whoop? Thank you.
which printer would you recommended for printing miniature bits?
A resin one for sure. This one in fact: www.miniwargaming.com/mighty
Also rapid prototyping is better in FDM. and the ankermake m5 prints as fast as bambu.
I'm not interested in 3d printing but I like to hear Matt talking without rolling dice.
My first and only 3d printer is the i3 mega the one you said NOT to get lol. And Id have to agree. This thing has never worked right. it randomly stops 20% of the way into large prints and then cools the bed (but still the screen advertises it at print temp) and then your print unsticks and then theres no way to continue the print and you lose the entire thing everytime. I can only print like small parts that take 30 mins with it basically. ive taken the whole thing apart, rebuilt it, switched sd cards, i even put it in a closet for a year to give cura time to update incase it was a software bug, pulled it back out and still the same issue. i would try custom firmware but the usb port on it doesnt seem to work or something, my pc doesn't recognize anything is plugged in.
4:18 Whatever you can afford.
Prusa mk3s is bulletproof for fdm
Phrozen have good units too.
I bought my ender 3 on eBay, they apparently take the ones sent back during the return period and just resell them unrepaired for 80 dollars on eBay. Repair it.. which takes significantly less time than setting one up and it costs significantly less money.
That's great! I'm not particularly interested in the hobby of maintaining 3D printers. I'm more interested in just getting tons of stuff printed, so having to maintain each individual printer as much as the Ender 3s was not for me.
However, for home hobbying they can work great.
Just ordered a Bambu Lab x1
Where do u buy it??
ive been looking at 3d printers since they came out...but never got me one... i would always say resin all the time... if u got a large sla printer u also can print large stuff... the size aspect is not a real factor to choose between fdm and resin imo... sla also is faster it basically just meassured in hight u basically can fil lthe whole build plate and the print time doesnt change... but i think sla printing has also alot of drawbacks... first of u need a ventilation system to print + u need to wash the stuff and clean everything eveytime u use the sla printer + u have to spend time for curing....also the resin isnt that sturdy than fdm... but the last years the variety of resins got alot better there are even flexible materials and also real hard materials... i will def get me either a mars 4 ultra or a mars 3 max in january... im not sure yet about AFC film.... if i can also use normal fep on the mars4 ultra i think i will go for the ultra because wlan, new display and the new mount def is worth the extra costs...
3:50 My face with my setup literally on kitchen. 🙃
Actually I would like to see the level of quality you can get with printing a 28mm to 32mm miniature with fdm. I heard that a .2 nozzle with layering at either .05, .08, or even .1 will yield good results.
I'm specifically looking into getting the elegoo Neptune 4 and elegoo mars 4 DLP. Lastly, do you recommendations for any DnD stl that are realistic scale, i e something similar to loot studios? It's hard to find a bundle with a mix of heroes and monsters. GW cursed city is the only thing that has a perfect mix for dungeon crawling. Thanks in advance.
I haven't ever tried it, but maybe for the sake of this channel I should!
@MWGForge sovol sv06 can easily do a 0.15 level and modles come out quite clean, can also print them in petg
My favorite is the masks and GIANT HOOD SYSTEM for the resin fumes. I could not stop laughing. Almost resturant grade Matt? I should hope so without a window to vent that nasty stuff out with.
Lol yup, we use a lot of resin and IPA, so I have to add a lot of extra safety precautions, especially as an employer.
Why can't I buy/use both!?
I used to try to repair my house's problems by using 2x4, pvc, anything you can get at Home Depot. I'm really glad I chose the FDM route. Because I never print figures or any toys with my ender 3. I print anything functional.
People say they make functional prints woth FDM but what ever they use it for can be done by resin as well.
@@miguellopez3392 Yes and no. Resin printer is too small/too expensive for the parts I've printed
It's my hope that FDM will get closer and closer to resin quality. Do you think this is likely to happen?
I think that the closer it gets to resin quality, the better resin will get, increasing the gap again. There has to be a physical limit to how well melting plastic and laying it out can work.
But maybe it will be like cameras on phones today vs expensive cameras ten years ago. Yes, expensive cameras today are better than phone cameras, but phone cameras are so good that you just don’t care.
So would fdm work on bigger figures?
Yes, But if figures some in peices you can get a 600mm tall figure assembled from medium size resin printer.
good video :) but some ender models are working at max 600mm speed. so they are good tho
Isn't there water liquid resin that's non-toxic, for the house?
no, thats water washable resin, all liquid resins are toxic.
Actually even with PLA you still have to worry about the fumes. Yes, PLA is least health damaging printing material, but fumes from it are still dangerous. You can check study searching phrase: "Chemical Composition and Toxicity of Particles Emitted from a Consumer-Level 3D Printer Using Various Materials".
Thanks for that! I'll check that out for sure.
Good first 3d printer is sovol
They are easy to build taking less then 30 mins can can easily compete with the prusa, mostly because thats what it was based on
I have an ender3 pro and it's a fuggin headache trying to level it. I've printed maybe 5 things and it's always a godamn issue. I hate it.
I would like to get into 3d printing. I think I'm too old to learn this technology. Seems like fun and maybe a retirement option as well.
Shut this crap up. No one is too old to learn new things
So for knight you thinking fdm will get the job done?
No not really. It’s not so much the size but the level of detail. I would still go with resin.
i held out from buying a 3d printer until SLA came around... best choice of my life.
i have just got a resin printer and yes it prints a lot nicer but its so much more of a pain to use
Most definitely! Resin is tough as it is more toxic and messy, so you need a better setup. But they are a must if you want to 3D print miniatures.
Looking to get into 3D-printing, and the toxicity of the resin printers is a total dealbreaker. Will have to use in a room where cats and other curious creatures might come. But thanks for the advice.
I still don’t know which one 😢
8:57 Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8k
Bambu Labs A1 mini to replace the pursa
Maybe! The print volume is a little small, but I guess it depends on what you're trying to print.
totally agree... it's not for me for sure, but I was thinking you deal with figures and stuff so they are small prints in the first place. I'm rocking the x1c and love it. I just saw your video because I'm trying to understand what I could gain if I added a resin printer to my fleet and if it's even worth it or not.@@MWGForge
Even though he pissed on the Ender 3 here, it is still FAR more customizable. I increased my build bed to 400x400 on my Ender
The frozen is 8K and the anycubic is 4K so I'm not sure you can compare the quality
That’s a very true statement. There are a lot of factors that make them hard to compare. Anything I share that I like is based off what I’ve used. There are lots of other good options out there.
I WANT TO PRINT PRODUCT MOCKUPS AND DESIGNS
I assume you are printing terrain????
Its unfortunate resin needs ventilation and proper ppe.... wife was already saying no before... probably a for sure no go now :/
Unless you have a dedicated space in your home where you can ventilate it, I agree that it's not a good idea.
what about no miniatures? about dolls? like pasha pasha NY doll?
You never told us how resin printers work
Neither is better than the other. Why? Because they are to be used for very different purposes.
Need a large and strong part? Use an FDM printer.
Need a part with exceptional detail that looks like it was injection molded? Use a Resin printer.
8 hours to assemble? Do I need to solder the logicboard components myself? Lol
I have both, use my FDM for tanks and terrain, then use the resin for individual soldiers
That’s great! I agree that both are great for different reasons.
I want to start printing my own 40k models with resin but now I know resin has toxic fumes and I live in a barracks room
My recommendation is to put it on one of those portable pain stations with a built in ventilator that you can connect to a window to vent a room.
I know now thank you 🙏 sorry now I know 😂