AD: Order the Heygears UltraCraft Reflex used in this video: store.heygears.com/referral/reflex069 Join the HeyGears new module live stream: th-cam.com/users/liveiB-JFxW4ysM?feature=share
Hey Emil, Nick from Stockholm here! How did you get your printer shipped to Sweden? Any other resin printers you recommend for high detailed miniatures? Tack!
@@SquidmarMiniatures Thanks for the reply! I am Wondering if I should get HeyGears or Uniformation GKTwo? There are just sooo many printers out there, really difficult to choose from. Have you tried the Uniformation printer?
Tip: Use grow tents with accompanying air extraction and filtration systems. They are designed to be easy to control temperature and to filter the air they pull out. As an added bonus, if your neighbors get confused and think you're using them as actual grow tents and you get raided, you can use it as an actual grow tent after, as the cops won't come back after finding your 3d printing setup the first time they come to check ;)
Spot on in every topic ! I've been Resin 3D printing for about 4 years now and you've presented everything quite nicely. What started as a hobby miniature based printing has evolved into a model railroad focused small business. Keep up the great vids (as usual)
I have a serious question as you seem like a guy with experience. I was expecting that resine 3D printing will drop the price of minis but when I go to Etsi it's like they look at GW prices and drop it by 10%. So my question is, is it so expensive to 3D print that GW prices minus 10% is the minimum you can sell for or small 3D printer businesses rather sell less but with more margin. Because right now it seems that free market and competition don't apply to 3D printing?
@@jeannot7784 I am not being political at all. But if you have noticed that used cars rising and staying in price, NY and Cali real estate soaring in prices even though there is a max exodus, fast food companies raising their prices and so on.... the traditional free market is ceasing to exist. Business do not drop prices but rather adjust price to marginally different rates. I am a business analyst and this trend is not going away. What you and i were taught in school about economics is so different than what is happening lol
I was expecting to be yelling at my monitor, but you did a great job at a beginners overview of 3D printing, especially for the miniature hobbyists. I love that you even cover print failures, not that those ever happen. ;) One recommendation I'd add for exposure calibration is the Cones of Calibration test. It really does take the guess work, and gives clear indicator of best setting.
I have never bought a miniature, but I started the hobby first with FDM - it was good for bigger terrain pieces, then bought a resin printer for fine detailed smaller miniatures. I love painting and the vast selection of cool models.
Man this is an AWESOME intro guide! As someone very frustrated a couple years ago trying to find a definitive guide, this would have been the perfect video. On a side note, Sunlu resin is incredible and smells far far less than the anycubic and elegoo offerings
Glad to see the safety warnings here! I developed a resin sensitivity because I underestimated the risks of having a resin printer in a nearby room without proper ventilation.
What a great video! Hands down one of the most in depth explainations on this I've seen in a while. Great info for even experienced people in the feild. Thank you for making yet another great video I know for a fact I will be coming back to.
I've had a 3D printer for several years now but had I had this video when I started.. just wow.. I would have saved so much frustration learning all this shit the hard way lol.. nothing like the school of hard knocks. Even still, I did learn a little bit from this video so I really appreciate you sharing this with us!
These are great reminders, I also found that depending on the print if you pull the vat right out and apply finger pressure underneath it breaks the seal on the failed print making taking it off a breeze
Thank you for this guide. I've been on the fence about whether or not to invest in a 3D printer, and this clinched it for me. Not going there. There've been a few other guides that I've found useful, but this one answered those last few questions I had and helped me make my decision. So again, thank you. No more waffling back and forth, trying to figure out where I'd put it, wondering whether it's worth the health risks. For me, it's clearly not.
i mean it's not a TON of effort to protect yourself. wear like a N95 mask while working with the Resin itself, and use gloves. If that is far more effort than you're willing to put in, then yeah 3d printing won't be the hobby for you. At least not Resin printing, you may enjoy FDM printing a lot more, it's also more versatile; there are so many different filiments and such for a thousand different use-cases. Resin printing is very useful for when you need to print something smaller with a great level of detail.
That was extremely useful and educational, and as you say it’s a different hobby in an of itself. You have convinced me that it is way beyond my interests and capabilities. Thank you
Hey Emil! Love the How TOS! So important to continue to support the community and bringing all the education and resources! keeping our community growing!
I do resinprinting in the garage during winter. I built a box to heat up the printer and to store resin. I use a simple greenhouse heater with a thermostat set to 25 celsius. Its so much easier to do this in the garage. Just bladt music, put on the filter mask, and IPA that print!
For keeping it clean i bought some cheap plastic for construction/painting and clamp it to the board. Resin is messy, once Ive cleaned most of it. I blast the surface with uv (keeping the printer and other resin i dont want wrongly cured out of the way) When the plastic sheet is to messy i just switch it to a new one. Another tip is running tools used for resin in the wash and cure station to remove unhardened resin. The sprue tip was a great idea. I will try that instead of trying to get a corner with the silicon scraper.
With regards to support removal: as well as using clippers for some of the heavier ones, I'd also recommend it for any particularly thin parts (perhaps bows or swords for example) to avoid the risk of snapping them when pulling the supports.
I found that FDM printer now a days actually do an amazing job with minor details, heck I'd say they rival Resin Printers, though RPs will always be the Goat when it comes to smaller details on much smaller models
A useful tip is to make a plexiglas scraper/prybar for removing prints from the plate. The plates on cheaper printers are often aluminium or other softer material. Using a Plexiglas scraper won't scratch the surface as opposed to a metal spatula. A very scratched baseplate will over time make it harder to remove the supports, cause they embed themselves into the grooves.
@@PhilosophyofElivagar he bought a heated belt used for keeping fermentation vats/barrels warm and wrapped it around the resin vat. This way you can warm up the resin in the vat in low temperatures. The warm resin is more... fluid (English is not my native language, sorry) so it works better during printing than cold, thick resin that may not form properly during the process. I believe the exposure times can be a bit shorter also, as the cold resin requires more energy to cure, but it's just my guess
A lot of great information! But the 2 I really liked that I never thought of was the support handles and the boiling water!!! Both are very useful for I will have to try them the next time I do a print!!!
I got an elegoo mars 2 a year or two ago for about €70. A good chunk of money, but it's not like you'd get a huge amount of GW stuff for the same amount.
Amazing guide! If I had the room for it I would probably get into 3d printing but as of now I do not. It was so refreshing with a well balanced guide that was unlike alot of "print broes" who says things along the lines of 'haha if you buy GW minis you are stupid, 3d printer goes BRR, just but a printer lol' etc.
6:54- So I understand that I am not the “typical consumer”! So I wouldn’t say anyone would “have to” go to the length that I went to get my 1st and 2nd printers……. But I also get very annoyed when I spend a good deal of money on anything and it doesn’t do what it promised!!! So I spent a whole year researching all kinds of 3D printers and I picked anyone and everyone’s brains for their likes and dislikes of each printer on all the SM pages before I finally bought my 1st printer! And then that again for 6 months for my 2nd printer!!! But it was worth it “to me” because to this day I still love both of them and they still make some awesome prints!!!
This video brings light to many of my doubts ty! I'm about to get into the 3D printing world bc I want to make some plastic accesories for my 1987 Mitsubishi Montero. It seems a filament printer is the way to go. Thanks alot!
For FDM using the fuzzy skin setting with very small values can help mask layer lines & make it look more like a random subtle texture all over the surfaces. Not always appropriate but for a lot of terrain it works great.
Completely irrelevant IK, but the video started autoplaying before stopping immediately for me, so you just SLAMMED the table, yell 'ASS' at me and stopped. I'm honestly not sure I can watch the video now, that was pretty much perfect
I use my resin 3d printer in my shed as I had heard the fumes can get a bit overwhelming, though I don't find them to be so, it's better to be safe than sorry. The first few prints (aside from the test print) kept failing and failing and failing, I was getting frustrated, but I did figure out why that was... I was printing in the winter. It was simply too cold in my shed for the printer, so, I got myself a cheap portable heater which is strong enough on low to heat my entire shed and since then failures are fewer and further between. I also lashed out the extra $$$ and got a wash and cure station and my god are fun to use as well as practical. But you can get away with using an alcohol bath and manually scrubbing so long as you are careful and using the sun to cure so long as you are prepared to wait for quite a while to make sure it is cured all the way through. I do wish I could afford one of the newer printers on the market though (I got mine in 2020) as they are getting more reliable and better quality prints from what I saw. My FDM printer I use in my house and I've never had a problem with heat or fumes or anything like that. I use PLA as well. I used to have a profile that was actually perfect for printing minis, though not as good as resin they are definitely capable of making ok minis. Unfortunately I have since lost that profile for my slicer but I think I should be able to find it again. But what I mainly would use FDM for is terrain and "dungeon" tiles where fine detail really isn't a major concern besides you can still get good results. ATM I cant use my printers as my resin one has a busted control panel (my fault I'm afraid), and the FDM one has a clogged hotend and the plastic is at a point where it is impossible to get it out. Luckily I do have a replacement hotend but the control panel has been a little harder to get. Oh well hopefully soon I will have both up and running again and my 3D printing adventures can continue. One last thing is Cults3d is also a great website to get STLs they have a ton of free high quality models (as well as some low quality ones) as well as paid ones.
Another thing to add, instead using the plastic spatula that comes with the sla/resin printer, use a silicon spatula so that it wont ruin the fep sheet surface.
Watch out to mix ipa,paper and heat 😅 You might get ☄️ A timer socket is also cheap and you can rest assured your appliances are shut of even when your away 🎉
Water washable resin does not mean you rinse off the print in your sink, or that you can pour your used rinse water down the sink. All liquid resin is toxic. You have to take the contaminated water/ipa to a disposal site that accepts liquid toxic materials, or pour the used resin contaminated liquid into a disposable tray and set outside to evaporate the liquid while the sun cures the resin into a disposable solid. As the liquid is toxic make sure your evaporation tray is away from children and pets as anything that drinks/touches the liquid will die/get very sick.
Try curing your washing containers after stirring them up. It'll turn the suspended polymer molecules into sediment heavier than the medium they're in. It's not 100 % effective, but getting most of the suspended resin out of your cleaning medium really does help. Putting cleaning medium into the sun until it evaporates for safe disposal is a waste of material. I've got a plastic water bottle with ultra concentrated resin sludge that's entirely made up of the dregs I have removed from my cleaning medium using a plastic syringe. I'll let that cure one day and reduce my cleaning medium waste by something like 80 - 90 %.
I have a question. Do you have a tutorial on how to print using an envisiontech industrial ultra 3sp printer? Its really old and i cant find anyone who actually shares how to use it. My school has one and i dont know if im doing it wrong or if its fucked.
I don't know whether squidmar is going only off the instruction but I have resin 3d printed during winter in non room temperature rooms many times without fail (knock on wood). The temperature always varied between 13- 18 celcius. So beginners don't stress too much on room temperature unless it's an igloo or a sauna.
@@SquidmarMiniatures True and from my experience a consistent temperature makes quite a bit a difference - tune the settings to the temperature and you’re good to go.
@@Alexpowkn Cults3D is nice. I found every single Old World dwarf, Tomb King, and Warriors of Chaos models. You have to keep your eye out, and snag them before they get taken down. Sometimes they’ll be up for a few days though. Reddit has a good page for sourcing too.
I don’t got that problem I’ve got a teacher who 3d prints a couple of models for me every now and then and her son is into the hobby too. She just 3D printed me a bulgryn with a krieg outfit
Question: I'm a newbie and would like to know in what position should the build plate be in when not in use? Thank you for the information and tips in this video it is greatly appreciated.
I own 3 fdm printers, work for an SLA farm and just picked up the elegoo saturn 3 ultra. Had it two weeks, just got my first successful print lastnight 😅😅the struggles.
hej! när man ska göra rent en resin print, hur viktigt är det att man använder Isopropanol ? går det att använda andra rengörings medel ? om man nu ska använda annat medel vad ska man kolla på (vad letar man efter) ? skulle annan alcohol passerat rengöringsmedel fungera ? Exempel: Biltemas egna Ytdesinfektion Artnr. 36-0112 ?
I just watched Total Recall...the best one (1990)...could you do a battle terrain build for 40k based on Total Recall (maybe on Mars)...also, ur awesome and i wish i could build/paint like u
I was planning to get one,but this video is telling me it's a lot of work. Plus the health side of 3d printing concerns me. I was thinking of getting via Amazon the Phrozen sonic 8k mini printer, the idea was to print forgeworld quality titans and marine bits with it. Is is a good choice?
Could a art toy printed with fdm printer with enough quality? I tried a resin printed and i had to return it because i felt bad because the resin is not good for me i dont kmow why... Thanks!!!
Hi I am Kapil Meena from India, I have recently bought Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra 12K printer. I have a very big doubt about the colors to paint my models. I am planning to use Acrylic Colors but it should be water-based or Alcohol-based? I need to use them for spray paint and brush and I am also planning to buy liquid lacquer and primer.
What timing of this video, spent the last 2 days researching which Resin Printer (Currently run 2 FDM pringters) to buy for printing some custom miniatures.
Biggest problem I had with resin printers is the high bar of entry it has. The printers are not cheap, the resin is rather expensive (and is used up quiet fast), you need a lot of additional gear like protective gear, cleaning materials and some way of curing the prints, but all that additional cost will eventually be worth it once you printed its price in models. HOWEVER too many people who are fans of 3D printing really love to ignore all the effort that goes into printing your own minis. They love to advice people to start printing their own warhammer models using stls that are too close to being copy right infringements for some peoples likings. 3D printing Models will save you money, but only once you printed enough minis to counter all the expenses you have when getting started. Also all the money you save with 3d printing your own models is countered with all the time and work you have to put in to print them.
You can get printers that print at 30 microns for like $300 now, all the other stuff can be bough for cheap if you are willing to do a bit of DIY, a single print can save you hundreds if you make it 300mm tall and from assembled parts so it scales beyond minitures and into larger models that would normally cost hundreds for unpainted versions.
some build plates can have scratch marks after long use, but it don't affect the prints as the only thing stuck to the base is the support tree base. Some times this can even help with adhesion :)
Any advice about how to set up/make files supported and ready on filament printers I am always having trouble with them and end up spending hours looking at videos and forums and dont feel like I am getting anywhere. Every time I print its a different problem. To clarify I have been using resin printers for years without issue after doing the same research and trial but I am just getting failure after failure with filament and dont feel any closer to understanding how and what to do better..
now all its left is to release some of your models as digital :D i'm sure there would be a lot of people interested in those and printing them at home, i know i am!
hey there i print small minis on my bambu x1 with a 0.2mm nozzle, 0.08mm layer height and they come out great on my setup there are no layer lines, just some support scars i can post my full settings and stuff if there's anyone interested
The better the calibration, temperature, resin, quality of light you have the less problems like this you will have. It can be any one of them. Easiest "quick fix" is having thicker supports. But it can also be curing time, so doing a calibration test can be worth a shot. But it might not be the real solution to the problem. There's a lot of trial and error to 3d printing.
@@SquidmarMiniatures ok thanks alot for the advice I appreciate it I'll try thickening the supports and changing the curing time and then see what happens
AD: Order the Heygears UltraCraft Reflex used in this video: store.heygears.com/referral/reflex069
Join the HeyGears new module live stream: th-cam.com/users/liveiB-JFxW4ysM?feature=share
23:05 "Always wear gloves when you're cleaning this" while showing Lucas's thumb sticking through the glove had me going flat laughinh. Awsome video!
Hey Emil, Nick from Stockholm here! How did you get your printer shipped to Sweden? Any other resin printers you recommend for high detailed miniatures? Tack!
@@nicknigals Hey, we had it shipped from the company directly to us.
We also recommend Phrozen printers!
@@SquidmarMiniatures Thanks for the reply! I am Wondering if I should get HeyGears or Uniformation GKTwo? There are just sooo many printers out there, really difficult to choose from. Have you tried the Uniformation printer?
Tip: Use grow tents with accompanying air extraction and filtration systems. They are designed to be easy to control temperature and to filter the air they pull out. As an added bonus, if your neighbors get confused and think you're using them as actual grow tents and you get raided, you can use it as an actual grow tent after, as the cops won't come back after finding your 3d printing setup the first time they come to check ;)
🤣
Spot on in every topic !
I've been Resin 3D printing for about 4 years now and you've presented everything quite nicely. What started as a hobby miniature based printing has evolved into a model railroad focused small business.
Keep up the great vids (as usual)
I have a serious question as you seem like a guy with experience. I was expecting that resine 3D printing will drop the price of minis but when I go to Etsi it's like they look at GW prices and drop it by 10%. So my question is, is it so expensive to 3D print that GW prices minus 10% is the minimum you can sell for or small 3D printer businesses rather sell less but with more margin. Because right now it seems that free market and competition don't apply to 3D printing?
Models are miles cheaper than GW on Etsy. 10 boar boys for £18 rather than probably 60+
Congrats man, It's always nice to hear that somebody's turned his hobby into business. Must be a great feeling!
@@jeannot7784 I am not being political at all. But if you have noticed that used cars rising and staying in price, NY and Cali real estate soaring in prices even though there is a max exodus, fast food companies raising their prices and so on.... the traditional free market is ceasing to exist. Business do not drop prices but rather adjust price to marginally different rates. I am a business analyst and this trend is not going away. What you and i were taught in school about economics is so different than what is happening lol
I was expecting to be yelling at my monitor, but you did a great job at a beginners overview of 3D printing, especially for the miniature hobbyists.
I love that you even cover print failures, not that those ever happen. ;)
One recommendation I'd add for exposure calibration is the Cones of Calibration test. It really does take the guess work, and gives clear indicator of best setting.
I have never bought a miniature, but I started the hobby first with FDM - it was good for bigger terrain pieces, then bought a resin printer for fine detailed smaller miniatures. I love painting and the vast selection of cool models.
Man this is an AWESOME intro guide! As someone very frustrated a couple years ago trying to find a definitive guide, this would have been the perfect video. On a side note, Sunlu resin is incredible and smells far far less than the anycubic and elegoo offerings
Glad to see the safety warnings here! I developed a resin sensitivity because I underestimated the risks of having a resin printer in a nearby room without proper ventilation.
What a great video! Hands down one of the most in depth explainations on this I've seen in a while. Great info for even experienced people in the feild. Thank you for making yet another great video I know for a fact I will be coming back to.
I've had a 3D printer for several years now but had I had this video when I started.. just wow.. I would have saved so much frustration learning all this shit the hard way lol.. nothing like the school of hard knocks. Even still, I did learn a little bit from this video so I really appreciate you sharing this with us!
These are great reminders, I also found that depending on the print if you pull the vat right out and apply finger pressure underneath it breaks the seal on the failed print making taking it off a breeze
Thank you for this guide. I've been on the fence about whether or not to invest in a 3D printer, and this clinched it for me. Not going there. There've been a few other guides that I've found useful, but this one answered those last few questions I had and helped me make my decision. So again, thank you. No more waffling back and forth, trying to figure out where I'd put it, wondering whether it's worth the health risks. For me, it's clearly not.
i mean it's not a TON of effort to protect yourself. wear like a N95 mask while working with the Resin itself, and use gloves. If that is far more effort than you're willing to put in, then yeah 3d printing won't be the hobby for you. At least not Resin printing, you may enjoy FDM printing a lot more, it's also more versatile; there are so many different filiments and such for a thousand different use-cases. Resin printing is very useful for when you need to print something smaller with a great level of detail.
That was extremely useful and educational, and as you say it’s a different hobby in an of itself. You have convinced me that it is way beyond my interests and capabilities. Thank you
this video is near perfect, thanks! filters and ventilators and then it's 100/100, but best I've seen so far on the topic!
Hey Emil! Love the How TOS! So important to continue to support the community and bringing all the education and resources! keeping our community growing!
I do resinprinting in the garage during winter. I built a box to heat up the printer and to store resin. I use a simple greenhouse heater with a thermostat set to 25 celsius.
Its so much easier to do this in the garage. Just bladt music, put on the filter mask, and IPA that print!
Oh, and remembers. Filters that may be delivered with the printers are good at removing smells, but they DO NOT remove VOC.
I literally just bought a Saturn 3 ultra this morning at work on Amazon. 3 hours before this came out... the universe must be on my side
For keeping it clean i bought some cheap plastic for construction/painting and clamp it to the board.
Resin is messy, once Ive cleaned most of it. I blast the surface with uv (keeping the printer and other resin i dont want wrongly cured out of the way)
When the plastic sheet is to messy i just switch it to a new one.
Another tip is running tools used for resin in the wash and cure station to remove unhardened resin.
The sprue tip was a great idea. I will try that instead of trying to get a corner with the silicon scraper.
With regards to support removal: as well as using clippers for some of the heavier ones, I'd also recommend it for any particularly thin parts (perhaps bows or swords for example) to avoid the risk of snapping them when pulling the supports.
ah, he did it, solid prints hope you are happy u finally got ur giants done :) looks solid!
I found that FDM printer now a days actually do an amazing job with minor details, heck I'd say they rival Resin Printers, though RPs will always be the Goat when it comes to smaller details on much smaller models
Thank you for this video. I was considering a 3d printer until I saw this video. Paying GW prices are not so bad after seeing all this.
A useful tip is to make a plexiglas scraper/prybar for removing prints from the plate. The plates on cheaper printers are often aluminium or other softer material. Using a Plexiglas scraper won't scratch the surface as opposed to a metal spatula. A very scratched baseplate will over time make it harder to remove the supports, cause they embed themselves into the grooves.
Fermentation belt round my vat was a game changer for with the printer being in a uk shed
I’m looking to get into 3D printing and I’m also in the UK, could you elaborate a little on what it is you did? 🙏🏻
@@PhilosophyofElivagar he bought a heated belt used for keeping fermentation vats/barrels warm and wrapped it around the resin vat. This way you can warm up the resin in the vat in low temperatures. The warm resin is more... fluid (English is not my native language, sorry) so it works better during printing than cold, thick resin that may not form properly during the process. I believe the exposure times can be a bit shorter also, as the cold resin requires more energy to cure, but it's just my guess
@@maciejs.5094 Amazing, thank you so much!
Enjoing every second in labcoat, gloves and respirator around resin printer 😆 such a unique bizare vibe.
Dude this 3d printer is some kind of next level. I just checked their website and it looks amazing.
You're so fortunate to posess one of those! :)
That is knowledgeable 28 mins, I thinking about buying 3d print but don’t know how to start, thanks for sharing
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you
A lot of great information! But the 2 I really liked that I never thought of was the support handles and the boiling water!!! Both are very useful for I will have to try them the next time I do a print!!!
Stop making me want to buy expensive things! I won't survive :c
I got an elegoo mars 2 a year or two ago for about €70. A good chunk of money, but it's not like you'd get a huge amount of GW stuff for the same amount.
Right? I'm about to drop $800 at 4am.
Rice and eggs are tasty
Saturn 4 Ultra. Just got it. Unreal. Right out of box.
Thank u . Best advice then most other TH-cam video . I thought of putting it in my room but now u save me …
Amazing guide!
If I had the room for it I would probably get into 3d printing but as of now I do not.
It was so refreshing with a well balanced guide that was unlike alot of "print broes" who says things along the lines of 'haha if you buy GW minis you are stupid, 3d printer goes BRR, just but a printer lol' etc.
Love this. Would have been really useful back when we started out here with resin printing
6:54- So I understand that I am not the “typical consumer”! So I wouldn’t say anyone would “have to” go to the length that I went to get my 1st and 2nd printers……. But I also get very annoyed when I spend a good deal of money on anything and it doesn’t do what it promised!!! So I spent a whole year researching all kinds of 3D printers and I picked anyone and everyone’s brains for their likes and dislikes of each printer on all the SM pages before I finally bought my 1st printer! And then that again for 6 months for my 2nd printer!!! But it was worth it “to me” because to this day I still love both of them and they still make some awesome prints!!!
This video brings light to many of my doubts ty! I'm about to get into the 3D printing world bc I want to make some plastic accesories for my 1987 Mitsubishi Montero. It seems a filament printer is the way to go. Thanks alot!
For FDM using the fuzzy skin setting with very small values can help mask layer lines & make it look more like a random subtle texture all over the surfaces. Not always appropriate but for a lot of terrain it works great.
Completely irrelevant IK, but the video started autoplaying before stopping immediately for me, so you just SLAMMED the table, yell 'ASS' at me and stopped.
I'm honestly not sure I can watch the video now, that was pretty much perfect
I've just got an fdm printer, I have printed a few mins they are ok but nothing like resin printers , I brought it to learn slicing and cad
Damn the 3D print if Emil in the thumbnail is actually pretty good for a noob
This video was right on time cause I was thinking of getting into this.
I use my resin 3d printer in my shed as I had heard the fumes can get a bit overwhelming, though I don't find them to be so, it's better to be safe than sorry. The first few prints (aside from the test print) kept failing and failing and failing, I was getting frustrated, but I did figure out why that was... I was printing in the winter. It was simply too cold in my shed for the printer, so, I got myself a cheap portable heater which is strong enough on low to heat my entire shed and since then failures are fewer and further between. I also lashed out the extra $$$ and got a wash and cure station and my god are fun to use as well as practical. But you can get away with using an alcohol bath and manually scrubbing so long as you are careful and using the sun to cure so long as you are prepared to wait for quite a while to make sure it is cured all the way through.
I do wish I could afford one of the newer printers on the market though (I got mine in 2020) as they are getting more reliable and better quality prints from what I saw.
My FDM printer I use in my house and I've never had a problem with heat or fumes or anything like that. I use PLA as well. I used to have a profile that was actually perfect for printing minis, though not as good as resin they are definitely capable of making ok minis. Unfortunately I have since lost that profile for my slicer but I think I should be able to find it again. But what I mainly would use FDM for is terrain and "dungeon" tiles where fine detail really isn't a major concern besides you can still get good results.
ATM I cant use my printers as my resin one has a busted control panel (my fault I'm afraid), and the FDM one has a clogged hotend and the plastic is at a point where it is impossible to get it out. Luckily I do have a replacement hotend but the control panel has been a little harder to get. Oh well hopefully soon I will have both up and running again and my 3D printing adventures can continue.
One last thing is Cults3d is also a great website to get STLs they have a ton of free high quality models (as well as some low quality ones) as well as paid ones.
Thank you for the tip with the leftover supports as a handle❤will try it out the next time my print fails (so the next time I try to print something😂)
Another thing to add, instead using the plastic spatula that comes with the sla/resin printer, use a silicon spatula so that it wont ruin the fep sheet surface.
Great video for new people getting into printing. 😊❤
Watch out to mix ipa,paper and heat 😅
You might get ☄️
A timer socket is also cheap and you can rest assured your appliances are shut of even when your away 🎉
Water washable resin does not mean you rinse off the print in your sink, or that you can pour your used rinse water down the sink. All liquid resin is toxic. You have to take the contaminated water/ipa to a disposal site that accepts liquid toxic materials, or pour the used resin contaminated liquid into a disposable tray and set outside to evaporate the liquid while the sun cures the resin into a disposable solid. As the liquid is toxic make sure your evaporation tray is away from children and pets as anything that drinks/touches the liquid will die/get very sick.
I printed my 4 mandalorian armor entirely with resin printer .the elegoo saturn ! So you can clearly build verry big piece if you slice them !❤
Thank you for the safety disclaimer!
Try curing your washing containers after stirring them up. It'll turn the suspended polymer molecules into sediment heavier than the medium they're in. It's not 100 % effective, but getting most of the suspended resin out of your cleaning medium really does help. Putting cleaning medium into the sun until it evaporates for safe disposal is a waste of material. I've got a plastic water bottle with ultra concentrated resin sludge that's entirely made up of the dregs I have removed from my cleaning medium using a plastic syringe. I'll let that cure one day and reduce my cleaning medium waste by something like 80 - 90 %.
Great video. My number one tip would be to take your time and not hurry, otherwise spill will happen 😅
I just going to put my printer in the bathroom and have the fan running 24/7
I got a mars pro 3 when elegoo did their winter sale i love it so much
We need an up date on Lucas and the cookie situation!🧐💯🤣🤣
I have a question. Do you have a tutorial on how to print using an envisiontech industrial ultra 3sp printer? Its really old and i cant find anyone who actually shares how to use it. My school has one and i dont know if im doing it wrong or if its fucked.
T-Röd from Biltema works like a charm :)
I clean my models with T-Röd and it works great and is alot cheaper the IPA.
Does the brand of FEP really matter when it comes to cleaning the FEP and avoiding cloudiness?
I have three models. I would love to see you paint and fix for me.
I don't know whether squidmar is going only off the instruction but I have resin 3d printed during winter in non room temperature rooms many times without fail (knock on wood). The temperature always varied between 13- 18 celcius. So beginners don't stress too much on room temperature unless it's an igloo or a sauna.
Some resins and printers are more forgiving, but it's not optimal :)
@@SquidmarMiniatures True and from my experience a consistent temperature makes quite a bit a difference - tune the settings to the temperature and you’re good to go.
The difference between 13 Celsius, and 25-30 in an enclosure is night and day. Anything delicate in cold temps is in for a bad time.
0:58 that is AWESOME! Where did you get that stl?
How do you get rid of the dirty ipa once it is time to throw it away?
Use the resin on my FDM prints, you should try it, zero layer lines
The ventilation warning is legit, take care everyone, put in the expense to get proper ventilation early.
Can I pour leftover resin from the Vat back into the original resin bottle to use again in the future?
you should look in to the cones of calibration, best thing since sliced bread
*All I have is a cold auto garage so I cover my printer with a heated electric blanket. Works 101% fine!*
60% of the time, it works every time
@@SquidmarMiniatures , That's not what I said.
If you’re a Warhammer player, and buy alot of models, get a printer. You’ll save thousands of dollars avoiding GWs greed.
Where do you find good STLs for Warhammer? I can't seem to find anything that looks okay
@@Alexpowkn Cults3D is nice. I found every single Old World dwarf, Tomb King, and Warriors of Chaos models.
You have to keep your eye out, and snag them before they get taken down. Sometimes they’ll be up for a few days though.
Reddit has a good page for sourcing too.
@@Alexpowkncheck cults3d, I think it’s located in russia so copyright laws are more flexible
I don’t got that problem I’ve got a teacher who 3d prints a couple of models for me every now and then and her son is into the hobby too. She just 3D printed me a bulgryn with a krieg outfit
I haven't even started warhammer yet, that is 100% why I got a 3d printer. I will never spend 50$ on a single miniature. And UNPAINTED
Question: I'm a newbie and would like to know in what position should the build plate be in when not in use? Thank you for the information and tips in this video it is greatly appreciated.
I own 3 fdm printers, work for an SLA farm and just picked up the elegoo saturn 3 ultra. Had it two weeks, just got my first successful print lastnight 😅😅the struggles.
What was the problem?
@@Valtier_ oh no problems, I was just sharing my struggles even for an experienced addive manufacturing engineer. We all can get stumped.
hej! när man ska göra rent en resin print, hur viktigt är det att man använder Isopropanol ? går det att använda andra rengörings medel ?
om man nu ska använda annat medel vad ska man kolla på (vad letar man efter) ?
skulle annan alcohol passerat rengöringsmedel fungera ?
Exempel: Biltemas egna Ytdesinfektion Artnr. 36-0112 ?
I just watched Total Recall...the best one (1990)...could you do a battle terrain build for 40k based on Total Recall (maybe on Mars)...also, ur awesome and i wish i could build/paint like u
I was planning to get one,but this video is telling me it's a lot of work. Plus the health side of 3d printing concerns me. I was thinking of getting via Amazon the Phrozen sonic 8k mini printer, the idea was to print forgeworld quality titans and marine bits with it. Is is a good choice?
1st March looks like an interesting day in the office 11:54
Yea, I am not sure where they are sending them.
The HeyGear slicer does not like presuppoerted minis, it wants to add supports itself.
Could a art toy printed with fdm printer with enough quality? I tried a resin printed and i had to return it because i felt bad because the resin is not good for me i dont kmow why... Thanks!!!
Great video! Unfortunately the hey gear printers are a bit out of my budget. Have you already had a look at the Phrozen Revo? What do you guys think?
how many grams weight is considered mid weight or heavy weight ? , based off slicer weight out ?
How to clean the ISO, leave it outside to evaporate, then torch the left microplastics to solidify.
the best guide to 3D printing let someone else do it
Personally, I prefer to use water washable resins. Yeah, they have their downsides, but it saves a lot of the hassle of post-processing
Hi
I am Kapil Meena from India, I have recently bought Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra 12K printer. I have a very big doubt about the colors to paint my models. I am planning to use Acrylic Colors but it should be water-based or Alcohol-based?
I need to use them for spray paint and brush and I am also planning to buy liquid lacquer and primer.
What timing of this video, spent the last 2 days researching which Resin Printer (Currently run 2 FDM pringters) to buy for printing some custom miniatures.
Same with me. Still having trouble deciding. What did you conclude?
Because ISO is quite difficult to get in my country, i use Bioethanol to clean my minis. Seems cheaper and got less smell.
Biggest problem I had with resin printers is the high bar of entry it has. The printers are not cheap, the resin is rather expensive (and is used up quiet fast), you need a lot of additional gear like protective gear, cleaning materials and some way of curing the prints, but all that additional cost will eventually be worth it once you printed its price in models.
HOWEVER too many people who are fans of 3D printing really love to ignore all the effort that goes into printing your own minis. They love to advice people to start printing their own warhammer models using stls that are too close to being copy right infringements for some peoples likings. 3D printing Models will save you money, but only once you printed enough minis to counter all the expenses you have when getting started. Also all the money you save with 3d printing your own models is countered with all the time and work you have to put in to print them.
You can get printers that print at 30 microns for like $300 now, all the other stuff can be bough for cheap if you are willing to do a bit of DIY, a single print can save you hundreds if you make it 300mm tall and from assembled parts so it scales beyond minitures and into larger models that would normally cost hundreds for unpainted versions.
As a person who never 3d printed; I have a question:
Wont you scratch the build plate when you use a metal spatula to remove the print?
some build plates can have scratch marks after long use, but it don't affect the prints as the only thing stuck to the base is the support tree base. Some times this can even help with adhesion :)
Wouldn't you have known about the self heating if you had perhaps....read the instructions? :D Great video as always!
Any advice about how to set up/make files supported and ready on filament printers I am always having trouble with them and end up spending hours looking at videos and forums and dont feel like I am getting anywhere. Every time I print its a different problem. To clarify I have been using resin printers for years without issue after doing the same research and trial but I am just getting failure after failure with filament and dont feel any closer to understanding how and what to do better..
Unique way to talk me out of getting on lol
The skull castle tower looks sick! Where can we find the STL?
I backed a kickstarter long ago from Printable Scenery, they might still have it in their shop!
now all its left is to release some of your models as digital :D i'm sure there would be a lot of people interested in those and printing them at home, i know i am!
Better cleaning solutions over iso are Acetone and Denatured Alcohol.
hey there
i print small minis on my bambu x1 with a 0.2mm nozzle, 0.08mm layer height and they come out great
on my setup there are no layer lines, just some support scars
i can post my full settings and stuff if there's anyone interested
I've gotten "eyeball good" with my voron zero at .04 layer my only issue now is support tuning.
@@calebharris292 i use the orca slicer default tree (auto), build plate only, remove small overhangs and top z distance 0.08 (one layer)
2:09 I see you’re a man of culture
i've printing with fdm printer epic tanks, and i get almost no visible layers :)
How long can you keep the liquid resin in the vat?
I've kept it for up to a year and it still worked, got a bit of a tacky/sticky surface though
ouu yeahh!! Awesome Guide!
Would you know what is happening when the supports somehow print but then dont print the actual miniature in one specific area?
The better the calibration, temperature, resin, quality of light you have the less problems like this you will have. It can be any one of them. Easiest "quick fix" is having thicker supports. But it can also be curing time, so doing a calibration test can be worth a shot. But it might not be the real solution to the problem. There's a lot of trial and error to 3d printing.
@@SquidmarMiniatures ok thanks alot for the advice I appreciate it I'll try thickening the supports and changing the curing time and then see what happens
Wait a minute.... Don't go to amazon... But amazon affiliate links... Think you messed up there bud haha. Great video very informative
Cool as always.
what about water washable resin