Just found your channel looking for this information Thanks. I put 3 empty casings in the cylinder for support when removing and installing the extractor rod.
I think overall that’s a good habit to be in. Due to the D shape of the extractor rod and the slot it rides in on these newer Pythons, it doesn’t seem that the star really takes any torque to speak of- certainly doesn’t hurt anything to be cautious, though, and I still tend to do that on my old S&W revolvers. Especially as loose as it was- it didn’t take much force at all to remove it. Unscrewed easily.
THANK YOU! 😂 I was wracking my brain on how it came apart. I didn't see the hex shape of the hole on the end of the rod. I thought it was just a round hole, since it is so small. I came to the conclusion that it was press fitted in or something, and nearly gave up. That's what brought me to search on TH-cam, hoping someone had a method to take it down to it's components. Much appreciated!
Thanks for the video. Just took mine apart, but I had to use pliers over a leather strap on the end of the extractor. It was just too tight for the allen wrench. When I put it back together, the allen wrench worked great. I also put spent casings in the cylinder for extra support while I cranked on the pliers. Thanks again for the great video!
I think they did a good job with it. Not overly complicated but effective. It’s tough to take a legacy design and adapt it to modern manufacturing techniques, but I think Colt did it right by modifying the design to work with the manufacturing technology instead of forcing new techniques into a design not intended for it.
Very nice video. The Colt cylinder and crane design is quite elegant in its simplicity. One thing that I have found whether Colt or S&W is that holding the cylinder in place while extracting the crane / yoke will take any potential for torque out the equation.
Exactly right, a lot of people just start pushing forward on the cylinder and it’s a quick way to cause damage. Gently supporting the cylinder while smoothly guiding the crane/yoke out the front not only avoids the damage, but it makes it easy. When the parts aren’t binding up they move freely.
I’m glad to hear that it has a lasting benefit. Even now a couple years later, this video is consistently one of my most viewed on a daily basis. Thanks for your kind words and viewership.
FWIW, for the new Colt Kodiak, you must remove the extractor rod, extractor and right side frame screw IOT remove the cylinder/crane as the cylinder hits the lower portion of the frame.
It doesn’t just require spinning the cylinder to line up a flute with the frame for clearance? I haven’t handled one so am not familiar, but I’m having trouble picturing why taking out the extractor and extractor rod would make a difference.
@@joshuamaynard134I think I understand. You have to pull the crane off the front with the cylinder just swung out, so that the crane is gone and the cylinder is free without needing to slide forward. Is that right?
@ColterBrog Sort of. It's not the same process as this video. You have to first remove the screw, then remove the extractor rod, then the extractor. Once you do this, the cylinder separates slightly from the crane, allowing you to slide the crane out the front, then the cylinder is free.
@@joshuamaynard134Yeah, that makes sense. A little trickier but doable. Seems it would only be particularly inconvenient if the extractor and rod became seized up. Were the threads noticeably dressed with any kind of treatment like an anti-seize grease or thread locker?
I really like the 2mm socket on the front. Much easier and less risk of damage compared to trying to tape up the extractor rod and clamp it in a vise. Very convenient design.
Vid very helpful, thank you. I watched another video before I seen this one. (mistake!!!) That person did not show or even refer to the washer at all. Thinking I knew what I was doing, I took mine apart for cleaning and it did not go back together right after that. THEN I knew I missed something. Turns out that I lost the pesky washer and can't find it despite extensive searching with magnet even. What is the diameter and thickness of the washer? I'm going to contact Colt, but I doubt they will help me.
The washer is flat and has no special distinguishing features. It is stainless steel. The thickness measured with dial calipers is 0.020”. The outside diameter is 0.249” and the inside diameter is 0.120”. It appears 0.250” outside diameter wouldn’t be a problem. Any smaller than 0.120” would be an issue. I don’t know if this is a widely available off-the-shelf washer or not. I will do some research.
It looks like an SAE #2 washer is the correct outside diameter and thickness, but the hole in it is a little bit too small by a few hundredths. It appears a #31 drill bit could be used to increase that hole size, but it’s going to be tricky on such a small part. I’d be inclined to use a pin vise and just do it by hand.
@@ColterBrog Thank you! I ended up using a #4 stainless washer. The I.D. hole is correct for the rod, but the O.D. was oversize at .310". I had to file it down to fit in the .250" bore inside the cylinder. Made my own and it works!
Based on what others have said, the Python and Anaconda are extremely similar. I haven’t been into one, but people have told me they used this video to take the Anaconda apart.
@@ColterBrog ahh nice. I seen anaconda videos. But none with the actual cylinder removal. Just the side plate and internals. So thank u!!! I know they say oh don't take ur Colt apart because only a "gunsmith" should do it. But it's like changing oil on ur car. Ya u can take it in... but u really should know how to do it yourself lol
Is it normal for a brand new python to have a slight wobble in the extractor rod? Just picked one up and haven’t even shot it. I noticed while cleaning it when I spin the cylinder that the extractor rod wobbles slightly left to right
Hard to say without seeing it. I’d make sure it isn’t loose. It doesn’t need to be especially tight, but I’d just check that it didn’t somehow work loose during shipping. It’s possible the rod could be bent, but that’s probably unlikely. If it is, I believe Midway USA had a good video on diagnosing and correcting that issue- or address it with Colt as a warranty issue. Does it bind up during the ejection stroke? If not, I’d be inclined to write it off as being acceptable clearance of the parts, and not a concern.
@@ColterBrog I’m gonna check today and see if it just needs tightened. It doesn’t seem to be getting bound up and it’s easy to push in and comes right back just has that little wobble when spinning the cylinder. I’m gonna take it to the range this weekend and make sure there Is nothing else wrong with it before I call colt.
@@ColterBrog I just uploaded 2 videos if you get a minute do you mind looking at them and telling me if that seems normal or should I try and reach out to colt.
Not sure how similar they are. Also, sometimes the rods can be straightened although there’s a lot of finesse involved. Hopefully you’re successful either way.
I may be stupid but how does the new 2020 python go for fixing end shake eventually. Is it like the old ones where you had to stretch the collar on the cylinder from colt and it could only be done once or replace the cylinder or do the ball bearings help that ?
I wish I had an answer for you on that, but I’m really not sure. This revolver is still quite tight, although I mostly shoot .38 Special. I would think the thicker top strap and improved metallurgy would help to prevent it from becoming a problem by minimizing stretching of the frame.
@@ColterBrog thanks mate it’s just I love colt revolvers but the smith and Wesson is so easy to correct this issue and the colt seems to be a new cylinder I just think it’s a real downfall of the new python they fixed the rest of it and could not make a sping loaded thing like they did on Dan Wesson revolvers or make it like the smith
The kit is an iFixit kit I got at Ace Hardware. Pretty clever kit that is very versatile not only for firearms but other things as well. I don’t use it all the time, but when I do need it it is super handy. The screwdriver in this video is one I hand-fitted from an old Craftsman. I have a series of videos on screwdriver fitting. There is also a Chapman bit that fits, but I forget which one. I think I test it on my review of the Chapman screwdriver set and tell specific part numbers that fit the Colt and what kit they’re included in.
Not too challenging. They definitely didn’t do any favors with the very thin slot size in the crane screw, and the small metric Allen is a little outside what I normally deal with. With the proper tools, though, it’s easy enough.
@@ColterBrog lol in India Smith n Wesson model 19 goes for 10 grand or more that even bought before 1984 because import in India of weapons r banned 🚫 from 1984 ...this gun in such condition in India will definitely people will rush with 20'000 dollars
@@sheetalsaxena9869 That’s like machine guns in the US. The 1986 ban has an M16 up around 30,000 or more. This Python is Colt’s new one. 2021 manufactured. The classic Pythons here are still quite expensive. A few thousand or more.
The Pythons cylinder assemblys are quite overly complex and bering washer inside the yoke is a part that should of been engineered deleted. The Smith's are far more simple, robust and smooth with less parts and end shake easily correctable. Nice video.
I will give them praise for having the 2mm hex key socket in the end of the extractor rod. It’s much nicer than trying to clamp the guide rod with something padded. Clever feature.
@@ColterBrog I disagree, unnecessary. Also it just makes no sense that they designed the ejector 1/4 short of full case ejection. The designer of the whole cylinder assembly and the ones that gave it a thumbs up, should separated from the company. The Python was considered the Cadillac of revolvers. Now, as nice as they are, they have short comings and riding on the name that can only justify the MSRP. I have the 2020 Python and the 2021 Anaconda and they are beautiful, but the triggers are not nice. My Smith 629 is so much better. A real shame.
@@prebaned The trigger, especially in single action, was disappointing to me. I have about 850 rounds through mine (I’ve loaded all of a case of bullets, and have about three boxes left unfired from that lot. So fairly accurate count.) I have dry fired it quite a bit- definitely several hundred cycles at least. The trigger has gotten a lot better just from wear, and putting some grease on the engagement surfaces helped a little bit more. It shouldn’t require that, but the good news is there is light at the end of the tunnel. I consider mine to be acceptable now, and am not going to pursue a trigger job. When new I didn’t find it to be acceptable. The extractor rod hasn’t really bothered me, although I agree making it 1/4” longer would have been good. There is enough room for it with the full lug design of the barrel. I hold the revolver vertically, actuate the rod swiftly, and let it snap back. I also mainly shoot .38 Special in it which likely contributes to my lack of complaint. It could be better, but hasn’t caused me any issues personally.
Just found your channel looking for this information Thanks. I put 3 empty casings in the cylinder for support when removing and installing the extractor rod.
I think overall that’s a good habit to be in. Due to the D shape of the extractor rod and the slot it rides in on these newer Pythons, it doesn’t seem that the star really takes any torque to speak of- certainly doesn’t hurt anything to be cautious, though, and I still tend to do that on my old S&W revolvers.
Especially as loose as it was- it didn’t take much force at all to remove it. Unscrewed easily.
THANK YOU! 😂
I was wracking my brain on how it came apart. I didn't see the hex shape of the hole on the end of the rod. I thought it was just a round hole, since it is so small. I came to the conclusion that it was press fitted in or something, and nearly gave up. That's what brought me to search on TH-cam, hoping someone had a method to take it down to it's components. Much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the video. Just took mine apart, but I had to use pliers over a leather strap on the end of the extractor. It was just too tight for the allen wrench. When I put it back together, the allen wrench worked great. I also put spent casings in the cylinder for extra support while I cranked on the pliers. Thanks again for the great video!
It doesn’t surprise me that might be necessary on some revolvers. Mine was quite tight from the factory.
You do a good video, the new Colt Python is simpler than the old Python 👍
I think they did a good job with it. Not overly complicated but effective. It’s tough to take a legacy design and adapt it to modern manufacturing techniques, but I think Colt did it right by modifying the design to work with the manufacturing technology instead of forcing new techniques into a design not intended for it.
Very nice video. The Colt cylinder and crane design is quite elegant in its simplicity.
One thing that I have found whether Colt or S&W is that holding the cylinder in place while extracting the crane / yoke will take any potential for torque out the equation.
Exactly right, a lot of people just start pushing forward on the cylinder and it’s a quick way to cause damage.
Gently supporting the cylinder while smoothly guiding the crane/yoke out the front not only avoids the damage, but it makes it easy. When the parts aren’t binding up they move freely.
I always check this video before cleaning my python. Thanks
I’m glad to hear that it has a lasting benefit. Even now a couple years later, this video is consistently one of my most viewed on a daily basis. Thanks for your kind words and viewership.
FWIW, for the new Colt Kodiak, you must remove the extractor rod, extractor and right side frame screw IOT remove the cylinder/crane as the cylinder hits the lower portion of the frame.
It doesn’t just require spinning the cylinder to line up a flute with the frame for clearance?
I haven’t handled one so am not familiar, but I’m having trouble picturing why taking out the extractor and extractor rod would make a difference.
@@ColterBrog No. The Kodiak doesn't have flutes on the cylinder. It won't remove like the Anaconda's cylinder does.
@@joshuamaynard134I think I understand. You have to pull the crane off the front with the cylinder just swung out, so that the crane is gone and the cylinder is free without needing to slide forward. Is that right?
@ColterBrog Sort of. It's not the same process as this video. You have to first remove the screw, then remove the extractor rod, then the extractor. Once you do this, the cylinder separates slightly from the crane, allowing you to slide the crane out the front, then the cylinder is free.
@@joshuamaynard134Yeah, that makes sense. A little trickier but doable. Seems it would only be particularly inconvenient if the extractor and rod became seized up. Were the threads noticeably dressed with any kind of treatment like an anti-seize grease or thread locker?
Excellent work and information brother 👏 i found this for detail cleaning my 2022 Anaconda
Thank you. Yes, the Anaconda is extremely similar to the Python.
Thanks, looks easy enough it's very similar to the Ruger SP100 which I have done before
I really like the 2mm socket on the front. Much easier and less risk of damage compared to trying to tape up the extractor rod and clamp it in a vise. Very convenient design.
Vid very helpful, thank you. I watched another video before I seen this one. (mistake!!!) That person did not show or even refer to the washer at all. Thinking I knew what I was doing, I took mine apart for cleaning and it did not go back together right after that. THEN I knew I missed something. Turns out that I lost the pesky washer and can't find it despite extensive searching with magnet even. What is the diameter and thickness of the washer? I'm going to contact Colt, but I doubt they will help me.
The washer is flat and has no special distinguishing features. It is stainless steel.
The thickness measured with dial calipers is 0.020”. The outside diameter is 0.249” and the inside diameter is 0.120”. It appears 0.250” outside diameter wouldn’t be a problem. Any smaller than 0.120” would be an issue.
I don’t know if this is a widely available off-the-shelf washer or not. I will do some research.
It looks like an SAE #2 washer is the correct outside diameter and thickness, but the hole in it is a little bit too small by a few hundredths.
It appears a #31 drill bit could be used to increase that hole size, but it’s going to be tricky on such a small part. I’d be inclined to use a pin vise and just do it by hand.
@@ColterBrog Thank you! I ended up using a #4 stainless washer. The I.D. hole is correct for the rod, but the O.D. was oversize at .310". I had to file it down to fit in the .250" bore inside the cylinder. Made my own and it works!
rod on mines gets stuck. wonder if its bent and if colt would even want to fix it.
Could be bent, they can sometimes be straightened if you know the right black magic are also are lucky.
They can definitely fix it, though.
Is this the same disassembly for a 2021 Colt Anaconda???
Based on what others have said, the Python and Anaconda are extremely similar. I haven’t been into one, but people have told me they used this video to take the Anaconda apart.
@@ColterBrog ahh nice. I seen anaconda videos. But none with the actual cylinder removal. Just the side plate and internals. So thank u!!!
I know they say oh don't take ur Colt apart because only a "gunsmith" should do it. But it's like changing oil on ur car. Ya u can take it in... but u really should know how to do it yourself lol
Is it normal for a brand new python to have a slight wobble in the extractor rod? Just picked one up and haven’t even shot it. I noticed while cleaning it when I spin the cylinder that the extractor rod wobbles slightly left to right
Hard to say without seeing it. I’d make sure it isn’t loose. It doesn’t need to be especially tight, but I’d just check that it didn’t somehow work loose during shipping.
It’s possible the rod could be bent, but that’s probably unlikely. If it is, I believe Midway USA had a good video on diagnosing and correcting that issue- or address it with Colt as a warranty issue.
Does it bind up during the ejection stroke? If not, I’d be inclined to write it off as being acceptable clearance of the parts, and not a concern.
@@ColterBrog I’m gonna check today and see if it just needs tightened. It doesn’t seem to be getting bound up and it’s easy to push in and comes right back just has that little wobble when spinning the cylinder. I’m gonna take it to the range this weekend and make sure there Is nothing else wrong with it before I call colt.
@@ColterBrog I just uploaded 2 videos if you get a minute do you mind looking at them and telling me if that seems normal or should I try and reach out to colt.
@@yowtf5792 Do you notice any change in the trigger pull when going through all cylinder positions? (Double action)
@@ColterBrog no it smooth and seems like it’s the same on all cylinders.
Hey man do you know by any chance where I can get a washer? I was stupid and it fell off the table somewhere in my carpet can’t find it yet :/
I’ll have to pull it apart and get measurements. It might be proprietary, but I’m not sure.
@@ColterBrog I appreciate it but I found it! Haha just digged through all the carpet lol
Awesome tip - thanks v much for sharing.
Thanks!
Thanks trying this on my 1991 KING COBRA have a bent extractor rod going to try and replace.
Not sure how similar they are. Also, sometimes the rods can be straightened although there’s a lot of finesse involved. Hopefully you’re successful either way.
Thanks for the tutorial
Thanks for the comment! I’m glad it was helpful.
I may be stupid but how does the new 2020 python go for fixing end shake eventually. Is it like the old ones where you had to stretch the collar on the cylinder from colt and it could only be done once or replace the cylinder or do the ball bearings help that ?
I wish I had an answer for you on that, but I’m really not sure. This revolver is still quite tight, although I mostly shoot .38 Special.
I would think the thicker top strap and improved metallurgy would help to prevent it from becoming a problem by minimizing stretching of the frame.
@@ColterBrog thanks mate it’s just I love colt revolvers but the smith and Wesson is so easy to correct this issue and the colt seems to be a new cylinder I just think it’s a real downfall of the new python they fixed the rest of it and could not make a sping loaded thing like they did on Dan Wesson revolvers or make it like the smith
Can I have a link to this tool kit?
www.ifixit.com/products/mako-driver-kit-64-precision-bits
I think that’s the right one. Looks like it.
Thank you…. 😊😊😊
Thanks for the comment. I love hearing feedback.
Hi I lost most of my tools due to a break in what kit is that you're using?
The kit is an iFixit kit I got at Ace Hardware. Pretty clever kit that is very versatile not only for firearms but other things as well. I don’t use it all the time, but when I do need it it is super handy.
The screwdriver in this video is one I hand-fitted from an old Craftsman. I have a series of videos on screwdriver fitting.
There is also a Chapman bit that fits, but I forget which one. I think I test it on my review of the Chapman screwdriver set and tell specific part numbers that fit the Colt and what kit they’re included in.
Thanks!
Not too challenging. They definitely didn’t do any favors with the very thin slot size in the crane screw, and the small metric Allen is a little outside what I normally deal with. With the proper tools, though, it’s easy enough.
Will the gun still safely fire without that small washer/bushing?
I don’t think it can work that way.
👍
👍
How much did u pay for this beauty
Full MSRP plus tax. At the time considered myself lucky to have found one, and it was considerably less than the MR73 I had been eyeballing.
@@ColterBrog doesn't help😂😂easy way would be if u just let me know price in dollars,🥰
@@sheetalsaxena9869 About 1600
@@ColterBrog lol in India Smith n Wesson model 19 goes for 10 grand or more that even bought before 1984 because import in India of weapons r banned 🚫 from 1984 ...this gun in such condition in India will definitely people will rush with 20'000 dollars
@@sheetalsaxena9869 That’s like machine guns in the US. The 1986 ban has an M16 up around 30,000 or more.
This Python is Colt’s new one. 2021 manufactured. The classic Pythons here are still quite expensive. A few thousand or more.
The Pythons cylinder assemblys are quite overly complex and bering washer inside the yoke is a part that should of been engineered deleted.
The Smith's are far more simple, robust and smooth with less parts and end shake easily correctable.
Nice video.
I will give them praise for having the 2mm hex key socket in the end of the extractor rod. It’s much nicer than trying to clamp the guide rod with something padded. Clever feature.
@@ColterBrog
I disagree, unnecessary. Also it just makes no sense that they designed the ejector 1/4 short of full case ejection. The designer of the whole cylinder assembly and the ones that gave it a thumbs up, should separated from the company. The Python was considered the Cadillac of revolvers. Now, as nice as they are, they have short comings and riding on the name that can only justify the MSRP. I have the 2020 Python and the 2021 Anaconda and they are beautiful, but the triggers are not nice. My Smith 629 is so much better. A real shame.
@@prebaned The trigger, especially in single action, was disappointing to me. I have about 850 rounds through mine (I’ve loaded all of a case of bullets, and have about three boxes left unfired from that lot. So fairly accurate count.) I have dry fired it quite a bit- definitely several hundred cycles at least. The trigger has gotten a lot better just from wear, and putting some grease on the engagement surfaces helped a little bit more. It shouldn’t require that, but the good news is there is light at the end of the tunnel. I consider mine to be acceptable now, and am not going to pursue a trigger job. When new I didn’t find it to be acceptable.
The extractor rod hasn’t really bothered me, although I agree making it 1/4” longer would have been good. There is enough room for it with the full lug design of the barrel. I hold the revolver vertically, actuate the rod swiftly, and let it snap back. I also mainly shoot .38 Special in it which likely contributes to my lack of complaint. It could be better, but hasn’t caused me any issues personally.
lol mine is tighter than HELL
Gave up on it.
What is? The ejector rod?
@@ColterBrog The knurled end with the 2mm hex pocket that screws on the ejector rod.
Yes the rod. I was thinking the knurled part was separate. Literally Just got it off. There is locktite on the threads 😊