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It’s not a bad idea, but I don’t prefer them for a few reasons. Introducing a magazine which behaves as a loaded one by having snap caps in it is a bad thing to get used to doing for dry-fire practice. It introduces the possibility of putting a magazine in a pistol that is loaded, and then when a round chambers no “alarm bells” go off in your head because you’re conditioned to feeding snap caps. I do not like magazine disconnect safeties for a similar reason. Introducing a magazine to a firearm for dry firing is not a good plan. Snap caps are relatively expensive and specialized. The o-ring is available at any hardware store for cheap. Snap caps experience wear and tear over time from the feed lips, extractor, ejector, and occasionally feed ramps. They eventually can get kind of chewed up. I’m not going to say someone is inherently wrong for using them, but they do introduce safety concerns that need to be paid attention to. They aren’t my preference.

It’s just odorless mineral spirits from the hardware store. No specific brand. I can only recall ever emptying the shop parts washer once in four years. One time when it was low we emptied it to clean the gunk out of the bottom of the basin. Normally, we’d just add some to it periodically as it was lost via slow evaporation and whatever got blown off the parts. It doesn’t seem to evaporate very quickly at all, especially with the lid closed. So, leaving it overnight? We left it in there for literally years.

Thanks for the tip and video.

The gentleman who sold it to me was not much of a gun guy. He claimed buying it new with one box of ammunition. He shot the whole box except six round for practice, loaded it with those last six, and kept it in his night stand for a few decades. He wanted to sell it because he had bought a CZ P07 thinking it was time he upgrade to semi-auto… and couldn’t imagine why he would ever need two handguns. Of course, without provenance, it’s wise to always buy the gun, not the story. In this instance, though, I believe him. The revolver is in incredible condition for its age and shows only the faintest little hints of wear probably from sliding around in his nightstand drawer forever. I have never shot it and honestly don’t intend to. It’s a beautiful piece of American craftsmanship that I’m happy to showcase in this video and preserve for future generations.

Thank you. Obviously there is a ton of information on TH-cam, so I try to focus in on my niche areas of knowledge. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to do a shooting review with this one, but I think getting to “look under the hood” and see the internals is also important and something not everyone else does. That’s actually my favorite part, though, so I fit my piece in where it fits.

Yup. I think it’s a misunderstanding of what the revolver was intended for and what ammunition was commonplace during that time. Additionally, the ones particularly prone to failure probably already did fail decades ago and aren’t around anymore. In general, I agree. Pretty rare but also easy to avoid with a bit of understanding of the common loadings the revolvers were mainly intended to be used with at that time.

@@ColterBrog From speaking to so many LEO, including my uncle who carried a Model 19 as a cop for 30 years, cops preferred 158 grain because they were easier to make followup shots. They rarely ever shot 125 grains or loaded them for duty. The ones who did were easily outed as rookie cops. These revolvers went through hell and S&W designed them so screws could be interchangeable as well as parts such as the extractor rod be easily bent back into shape. I prefer them over the new classic ones but may have to get a newer one because the newer ones are just built like tanks. Also, damn accurate.

Thanks!

Bahco if you want a wide opening one. Wright if you want something “normal”. Irega makes both of these and also sells under their own brand. They’re made in Spain and Irega has more than a century making wrenches. The SnapOn ones currently offered are seemingly just Bahco by Irega with a different color handle and a little chrome job. Good wrenches.

That’s how I do it, except with the new model Python. It’s MIM, mass produced… and overbuilt to handle the full house magnums. I tend to keep the wear and tear of that off the classics.

I’d be excited to see it. I love technical drawing.

@@ColterBrog its a cartoonish drawing of the gun, I just needed a reference for the hammer and trigger sorry if thats disappointing

@@BorealisFantasyNot at all disappointing. I’m interested to see what you did.

Sounds like an excellent revolver. I’d probably be inclined to get something more modern to carry and do general shooting with, something that has parts currently manufactured and isn’t a pristine family heirloom and excellent example of the golden age of revolvers, and also something in stainless for ease of maintenance, but mechanically the revolver should work fine.

@ColterBrog a heirloom it is,I do have a few semi auto handguns, I'll be sure to keep this one pristine, from what I've researched no to many in new condition left. Thanks for the feedback and the great video.

I’m not sure I understand the point you’re making. I’ll probably agree either way.

Yes, I think it’s the 90° angle there. It encourages fracture.

They need to radius that 90° bend. Same design shortcoming as the old style locking blocks.

Couldn’t say. I haven’t handled Tisas or gotten a chance to disassemble one.

After about nine months, I guess it has been now, I can say that after nearly daily use it still is working great. Seems to be every bit as robust as the old Klein one. I love the bit interchangeability.

It’s a good question, and the only answer I can really give you is that I’ve always done it this way and always seen it done this way, and if you’re competent in doing it… I’ve never actually seen someone ruin a gun. If you’re careful, even inexperienced people tend to do fine. You could do that if you want to, but my worry would be that this hole needs to be very precise. It’s not a matter of just fitting a pin in- that’s relatively simple. You want the sight to be snugged forward when it is pinned. The pin just keeps the sight from falling off, but the slot itself being butted with the sight takes the brunt of the recoil as the barrel moves back under recoil and the sight wants to not move. “An object at rest remains at rest unless acted upon by an unbalanced force”. You want that sight set forward and butted so the pin holding it in doesn’t take that stress because it will cause premature failure. Butting the sight the wrong direction, for example, can definitely cause the pin to shear eventually because it’s taking too much recoil load. In short, what you’re suggesting can work in theory, but it would have to be done with such precision that… it’s probably not practical. Great question. Made me think about it.

Heh. I usually get called out for having Owen Wilson’s voice, but I’ll happily take Bob Ross. 😂

This gas key from POF has a circular cutout on the side that allows clearance for the roller cam pin to be installed and removed.

@@ColterBrog Nice. Thank you. I have 3 Toolcraft chrome bolts I'd like to install the roller cam in to. Should I get the POF gas key or reuse the existing?

@@Ashley-wm7ixI would definitely get the POF gas keys, that way you can actually disassemble the bolt carrier group without having to remove the gas key again.

@@ColterBrog Thank you very much!

They might not be. I never shot this one, although the owner didn’t mention any problems. I don’t think he has shot it much, though.

The carrier key seen in the video is paired with the POF roller cam pin. The finish appears to be hard chrome, but it could be something else. The purpose of it is that it has a cutout to allow the roller cam pin to fit. The finish difference isn’t the reason for changing it.

@@ColterBrog Ok 👌🏻.But, would it make any sense to change the phosphated Carrier Key for a Nickel boron key? What do you think? I have my key broken by a blow and I like the Carrie Key Nickel boron along with my phosphated carrier… But I have some doubts to ask… thanks

@@Custompro36610I don’t think it matters one way or the other. Carrier keys, even phosphated, normally have a chromed interior. Installing one that is nickel boron is fine if you like the look or perceive it to be better, but I can’t think of any practical benefit. In short, do what makes you happy because it’s not going to make a difference for better or worse.

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks!

I can’t absolutely guarantee it, probably a question for Kimber customer support, but to my eye the dovetails look identical and should be interchangeable.

I should, but unfortunately other priorities tend to take priority as this is just something I do on the side. All my videos are filmed on my rapidly aging iPhone 12.

I might get the exact details incorrect, but I believe Sweden was actually supplying Germany with their highly prized iron ore of exceptional quality, which Germany was using to produce steel. Sweden, however, lacked access to other metals for making high strength steel alloys. If I haven’t forgotten, I think Sweden arranged the sale of the iron ore on the condition they were able to purchase rifle scopes from Germany for their m/41 sniper system as the German optics were more highly regarded.

This pistol was loaned to me by my former roommate for the purposes of making this video and inspecting the internals for him. He doesn’t shoot all that much, so I can’t say much about the longevity of it. He has not complained about any issues with it, is about all I can say.

Possibly, as I do have family in Idaho/Wyoming/Utah area. It is a fairly uncommon last name outside of Switzerland so being in the United States it’s likely he is my distant relative, although I don’t believe I’ve ever met him. I looked for an obituary but didn’t find one. Do you happen to know his father’s name?

@@ColterBrog No , but his father and mother came from Switzerland.. he died about 10-15 yrs ago. I haven’t kept I. Touch with my family so I don’t know a lot. He was a timber faller.. worked in the woods till he was 80! Tough old bird

@@guaporeturns9472This is quite the interesting rabbit hole you’ve put before me. Walter Brog’s father was Caspar Brog, who was about 20 years older than my great-grandfather, and also immigrated about 20 years earlier. Both Walt’s father and my great-grandfather were born in Meiringen, Bern, Switzerland. Oddly enough, his other son besides Walt is Alvin Brog. My grandfather’s middle name was Alvin. I do not think I share an ancestor with Walt during the time period our families have been in the United States. Based on the last name, though, and ancestors from the same relatively small town in Switzerland, it seems likely we do have a familial link in the time period before our ancestors left Switzerland. I’m still trying to figure out who that common ancestor might be.

@@ColterBrog Pretty cool

I wouldn’t necessarily say that. They’re different beasts. Apples and oranges. The P07 is a much lighter handgun. The 75 Compact is incredibly heavy. Just depends. The P07 is an excellent handgun.

I am not very good at handling it's recoil. Want something heavier

Same. I’m so used to guns where, largely, they can be dated at least to a few years. Often down to the month, and sometimes even the exact day it left the factory. That does make them fascinating to collect, but it is a bit disappointing when other interests don’t have the same degree of record keeping precision.

This is great information. Thank you.

That’s an old trick that only works that way with USGI or similar construction magazines. All you have to do is take a piece of parachute cord about 7” long, pull out all the inner strands so it is “gutted”. You only need the outer sheath. Burn the ends so it doesn’t unravel, and tie a simple knot on each end. Slide the base plate of the magazine partially off, stick the knotted ends inside the magazine on either side of the base plate, and slide it back closed. Done. It isn’t as necessary on PMags because of the flared base that makes them easier to grab out of a pouch, but you could conceivably rig something up with tape if you really wanted to. MagPul’s namesake product might fit on a PMag and give you a rubber loop. MagPul also makes “Ranger Plates” for PMags, as well as for GI-type magazines. Only GI-size magazines fit the Pelican 1200 case. PMags, Lancers, and even metal magazines of the HK profile don’t fit.

@@ColterBrog thanks for the detailed response bro much appreciated

I wouldn’t say mine is mushy, but it has take-up. That’s a necessary part of the trigger function because it’s disengaging the firing pin block.

@@ColterBrog has alot of take up yeah. But when I hit the wall it’s a lot of mush to push past before it finally breaks. Very disappointed with the p210 trigger after hearing everyone else say how good it is meanwhile that mushy break reminds me of a Glock, the trigger is just a much much lighter version

I follow what you’re thinking, but I disagree. For one, most of these issues arose when these revolvers had been recently in production. General attitudes and practices of the time period, as far as I’ve seen, didn’t really emphasize dumping cylinder after cylinder of full house magnum loads. It just wasn’t the way they thought. Obviously, I wasn’t there, but this is based on first hand accounts, observations of the training philosophies those people still hold and practice, and film documentation of training practices of the relevant time period. Second, getting a revolver sufficiently hot to compromise the metal is a difficult task with something that is a repeater loaded manually. Six rounds until a reload is required, and that reloading process opens the barrel through for airflow. Add in the fact I don’t know that I’ve ever seen someone carry more than about four speedloaders, even in later years when they were really trying to remain relevant compared to automatics… I think it’s unlikely anyone would have been able to “rapidly” fire more than about 30 rounds. That’s not that much especially given the circumstances already mentioned. Third, the issue of cracking metal would seem to be alleviated by the steel becoming slightly softer with heat within a reasonable extent. Of course, that’s really just conjecture on my part. But hotter steel is typically softer and more prone to deformation rather than fracturing. Heat could/would exacerbate throat erosion, which might increase the risk of failure over a long period of time, but there are reports of some revolvers failing at the forcing cone in as few as a couple hundred rounds of particularly hot (yet still factory loaded) 125 grain magnums. It is an issue that was observed at the time, and there is a reasonable mechanical explanation for why it is real and not just a fluke. I tend to believe that it is a shortcoming of the design and manufacturing practices, that is exacerbated by “luck of the draw” of a particular revolver and also ammunition related conditions that expose that flaw. That is my opinion based on what information I have seen.

Just depends on the revolver and varies more depending on the timeframe.

I agree completely. I like to be gentle with the classics because they are more interesting as a piece of history and a slice of the American story. American manufacturing, engineering design, and craftsmanship is on full display in the classics and they are beautiful. For just putting high powered magnums down range… newer options are better. They can handle it, and they have excellent feel and handling for the user.

I don’t think I completely agree with this theory, but I cannot disprove it, either. I tend to think of it as the lighter bullet moving more abruptly and imparting more kinetic energy to the cone, not a gas cutting issue. However, it might be that both are in play here. That’s a very interesting perspective, and I hope in the future we all can understand more of exactly what’s going on inside these machines. Thanks for the information, new perspective, and contribution to the discussion.

@@ColterBrog Additionally, I noticed the cylinder on my S&W 586 is slightly longer than on my blued Python. The 586 was manufactured in the 1980s and the blued Python most likely last year. I ordered the Python right after Colt announced it at this hears Shot Show. Does it make a difference in performance or was the shorter cylinder on the Python designed to save money over the production life of the revolver? The difference in cylinder length changes the distance between the bullet and the forcing cone. My explanation above works if the bullet contacts the forcing cone while the base of the bullet is still in the case. However if the cylinder is longer then there would be a gap between the time the bullet contacts the forcing cone and the base clears the case those rapidly expanding hot gases may pay more of role in wear. What are your thoughts?

@@texassportsman5880I would think it’s largely just an aesthetic choice. As soon as pressure starts rising that case is going to balloon out to the chamber walls and allow gas around the bullet. They’ll both be venting regardless of length. Cylinder length, as far as I visualize what’s happening, wouldn’t seem to matter.

I remember those. Don’t recall seeing them in… a long time. Probably ten years ago.

​@ColterBrog ya, it's been a long time. I still have one that I keep zip locked. I cut pieces off it when I need to clean tuff carbon off.

You mean to use the revolver in single-action? Same thing. Moving the hammer back causes the trigger to also pivot. The cylinder stop functions in the same way.

@@ColterBrog Oh well, thank you very much

I missed the square bit, too. Fortunately they sell double-ended bits in all kinds of varieties in this now standard 1/4” hexagonal size so you can customize it to your liking. I ended up buying a square bit with, I think, a Phillips on the other end on Amazon for… pretty cheap. Erwin brand. Like you, I loved the Klein, but the standardized bit sizes now make this a really versatile tool that’s easy to pick up the exact bits you need to make it perfect.

Correct, that is S&Ws terminology. The Colt has a firing pin. I actually misspoke on several things. With both revolvers side by side, the different terminology the two companies use, and trying to discuss both of them simultaneously… it’s hard for it not to become a bit of a nomenclature jumble. Good catch, though.

Indeed.

I’ve had better luck with wood. It’s less prone to deforming. When the wooden dowel eventually splinters just replace it. They’re cheap, work well, and are non-marring.

That hammer has changed hundreds of sights. I’ve been using it for 15 years and the weight and balance is excellent for precision tasks. I really don’t know how to even respond to a “real drill bit”… I assure you the drill bit is, in fact, real. Held it in my own hand even. It even drilled a real hole. It’s not a video of showing how fast I can change sights. It’s a slow and deliberate tutorial video. Go take a nap.

Yes. If it features the target sight like this one did, it is screw adjustable.

I am usually happy with tools from Taiwan. GearWrench 120XP is one example. Best ratchet made, in my opinion. Now, Chinese tools, from the PRC… I don’t like their “business model”, and the tools have routinely been disappointing. I try to avoid those.

I agree the stuff made in Taiwan isn’t bad stuff but it’s not the same professional grade tool truck quality that SK used to be known for

Fasteners should, generally, not be lubricated unless it is called for. The TM does not call for lubrication. Lubricating fasteners when it isn’t called for increases the effective torque. It causes more stretching of the fastener than what the recommended torque value actually intends. In the effort to be more accurate, you might actually cause strain to the fastener by lubricating it excessively. (Although in this application I doubt it really matters that much, but that’s just my individual opinion and not supported by the documentation.)

Those older ones you’re referring to are definitely good wrenches. I’ve been meaning to make a follow up video to this one, but I’ll give the spoiler. After a year of using these wrenches I really like the 10” Wright branded wrench made by Irega in Spain. It’s been an excellent wrench and is the one I consistently reach for.

The hole is bigger on the left because it is countersunk as a guide. The roll pin is not tapered. Allowing the pin to pass through instead of backing it out the opposite direction of installation is correct in this instance as it limits risk of cosmetic damage from a punch slipping. In regards to the rear sight, I actually mention in the video there was no measurable difference in the dovetail itself (and the presence of a screw for securing it after drifting windage adjustments suggests there wouldn’t be) but that the original rear sight appeared to have a tapered leading edge on the left which is evidence it had been drifted in at the factory from the right. I chose to act based on available evidence rather than an “almost all rule”. I don’t recall any difficulty with the rear, and don’t see any difficulty with the rear rewatching the video. I chose to not do any fitting on the rear sight because I was able to get it started a bit by hand, and wanted the fit to be quite snug so it isn’t bumped when carried. In my opinion, the video is accurate in showing the correct way to work on *this* revolver.

Straight from Kimber…”installed from right to left, removed from left to right.”

@@BryanW0765I’d be curious to see what the supposed difference in dimension is. As I said, I didn’t do it the way I did by accident- and I specifically justify it in the video. Regardless, the way I did it and rationalized it resulted in a successful install which has had no problems with high recoil loads and general carry.

@@ColterBrog well…I really appreciate the video. You will have helped me immensely once I receive my K6S. I really appreciate you taking the time to do it.

@@BryanW0765If that’s what they say I’d be inclined to trust them. It just isn’t what I observed.

Thanks for the comment. I love hearing feedback.