I’m surprised you’re having such struggles with the trigger. That’s unfortunate. Just be very mindful of sear engagement angles. It is best that it remains a bit positive. Neutral or negative introduce unnecessary risk. Good profiling and final polish is critical. I use a dab of Lucas grease on my engagement surfaces.
That has been said, but I am skeptical of that for a few reasons. 1) I think it may have been a way to save face as opposed to simply saying “our QC was lacking and we failed to adequately tighten the screws on a huge number of revolvers”. 2) I have not had any issues with mine coming loose ever since I tightened them. I did have screws that were found loose on first disassembly of the revolver at a very low round count. Since I tightened them firmly (nothing crazy or excessive, just snugged tightly) mine have not come loose. 3) My S&W revolvers have never had Loctite, and have never come loose. I can’t think of any reason why S&W side plate screws wouldn’t need Loctite, but Colt side plate screws would- they’re similar fasteners doing the same job. I personally don’t want the mess of using Loctite and haven’t found it to be necessary.
The crane retaining screw I absolutely would *NOT* use any thread locker. The plunger and spring under that screw need to move freely. Any leak over of thread locker would risk causing an impediment. I wouldn’t bother with it on the grip screw, either. I guess you could, but the grips on these are such a snug fit the screw is more or less redundant. By my estimate, you would notice it getting loose long before it actually caused a problem. I’d just snug it gently since it’s steel in brass- I’ve had no issues. Some people like to use thread locker on the side plate screws. I don’t think that’s unreasonable if it’s a low temperate thread locker and used sparingly, but I personally don’t do it as I find it unnecessary.
@@killshot2534 These are remarkably simple compared to the old Python. The only tricky parts are getting the grips off without marring them, and getting them lined back up again to snap into place, and using the 90° snap ring pliers to control the V-spring. Beyond that, it’s all pretty straightforward. Mainly just ensuring everything is clean so the various bearing surfaces can mate up correctly without binding, and being careful to not cross-thread anything since the threads are quite fine.
In all likelihood you probably won’t. Since this was a new release and nobody else had shown the internals, I was curious to see what design and manufacturing choices had been made. As far as I can tell these are a robust design of good quality and would likely go decades without needing the internals serviced as long as there isn’t any contamination from dirt or the like.
Good video. Easy to follow. The only thing was that cheap looking craftsman screw driver. It just looks like it is gonna pop out, booger up the screw and gouge the hell out of that nice Python. Yikes!
It is fitted to the screw. I’ve used the same screwdriver on S&W screws for years. (It just so happens to also fit Colt screws.) I have a four part video series on how I fit screwdrivers. Been doing it for many years, and it works great. Perfect fit with what’s essentially a parallel grind.
When looking at the transfer bar. Is there a slight crack of some sort on yours? I'm only asking because mine has a slight slit in it. It is not jagged but rather a clean line. Don't know if I need to send it in for repair or if this was by design for some reason.
I haven’t had it apart in a month or two… but if I remember correctly that appears to be a metal injection molded part which is a manufacturing practice which leaves a seam line from the mold. Are you sure what you’re seeing isn’t just a mark remaining from manufacturing?
thanks for the video. Just a question: if you look at the cylinder latch from the top, can you see the side of the cylinder latch zigzag spring or it is perfectly flat in the side plate? i can see the zigzag spring of my python (just before the plastic pin) and i don't know if it's normal. It seems to function properly though ...
If I remember right I can see the plastic pin and just the slightest bit of the zigzag spring. I thought it was a little odd, too, but I think that’s how they’re supposed to be.
I’ll have to do some research. I think these are 5-44 screws but will need to verify that. Making some assumptions on grade of stainless, and referencing a screw chart from Fastenal it appears 8.0 in-lbs is recommended maximum for a lubricated 5-44 screw in 18-8 stainless steel. Because of the presence of solvents and oil I would consider gun screws to be lubricated unless intentionally degreased. I can do some testing this weekend and get back to you with a more well supported answer.
This is helpful. Some authors have tried to reverse engineer the spec by applying bracketed up torque as they try to unfasten the screw…usually 8-10 in lbs . There is supposedly some anti vibration thread coating …or maybe some locktite depending on the serial number. The warranty is supposedly invalidated if you take the plate off. So the correct snug would seem to head several of the real, or perceived issues.
@@wendellkeesling6285 I have heard reports of newer revolvers having some type of thread locking compound. Mine showed no evidence of any treatment of the threads at all. I bought it brand new in October 2021. My rear side plate screw was very loose, as in not tight at all, after relatively limited use with .38 Special. (I did not check it when brand new.) The grips held the side plate down so I experienced no functional issues at all. I have never used a torque driver on revolver side plate screws. I just snug them down decently but not getting too crazy with it. (I know that’s completely subjective.) It’s the same way I’ve done all revolvers for 15+ years and it hasn’t failed me yet. Maybe I’ll snug the screws until it feels “right” to me, and then lower the value on the torque driver until it comes free. At least it will give some idea of what I’m doing that has been working.
@@wendellkeesling6285 Based on my hand and my old, not-recently-calibrated torque driver, it seems that 10 in-lbs feels like the right amount of tightening. My driver’s spring may be getting weak with age, so that could conceivably be 8 in-lbs in reality. I think a range of 8-10 in-lbs is probably a safe practice.
@@ColterBrog I’m just saying you may know what your doing but a vast majority don’t and you should’ve mentioned removing the side plate voids colts warranty.
@@ColterBrog What’s your honest opinion on this remake python, I have a guy that wants to trade me heads up for my 686 No dash 6” for the 4.25” version. I’m just not sure I see the quality in the Colt compared to Smiths of yesteryear. A lot of people are bashing the Colt and saying it’s a Taurus with lipstick..
@@alphasmurf6563 I feel like that’s common knowledge- unauthorized disassembly of pretty much anything, firearm or otherwise, voids warranty. Colt’s warranty is only a year anyway. If they really didn’t want these revolvers worked on, they should offer a better warranty repair period. Beyond that, if they didn’t want people to work on them they should have actually assembled it correctly.
@@alphasmurf6563 I don’t think the Colt is a Taurus with lipstick… and I’m not really sure what people might be referencing with that. It had some minor assembly issues where I had to tighten some screws they forgot to, but the overall quality seems fine to me. It’s well-fitted and a slick action. I have a review video that gives some more detail, and also a side-by-side with the S&W 66 where you can see some of the functions compared. (Mainly focused on safety aspects.) I don’t think I’d let go of an old S&W… they’re scarce items and highly sought after. The Colt is current production and used ones will be coming around in future years. I think the answer is keep the S&W and get a Colt, also. That’s what I did.
This helped a ton. Have been in 2x now for a desperately needed trigger job. Once more will get it there. Thx for taking the time -
I’m surprised you’re having such struggles with the trigger. That’s unfortunate. Just be very mindful of sear engagement angles. It is best that it remains a bit positive. Neutral or negative introduce unnecessary risk. Good profiling and final polish is critical.
I use a dab of Lucas grease on my engagement surfaces.
Fantastic! I just got mine back together thanks to this video. Well done.
It’s really not bad at all. Easier than S&W in my opinion.
@@ColterBrog copy that
OUTSTANDING again.
You’re too kind.
Top shelf presentation. Thank you.
Thanks. It took a few practice sessions and several tries filming to get it mostly right.
Do you need to loctite the side plate screws? Wasn't that one of the issues they had at the beginning of production?
That has been said, but I am skeptical of that for a few reasons.
1) I think it may have been a way to save face as opposed to simply saying “our QC was lacking and we failed to adequately tighten the screws on a huge number of revolvers”.
2) I have not had any issues with mine coming loose ever since I tightened them. I did have screws that were found loose on first disassembly of the revolver at a very low round count. Since I tightened them firmly (nothing crazy or excessive, just snugged tightly) mine have not come loose.
3) My S&W revolvers have never had Loctite, and have never come loose. I can’t think of any reason why S&W side plate screws wouldn’t need Loctite, but Colt side plate screws would- they’re similar fasteners doing the same job.
I personally don’t want the mess of using Loctite and haven’t found it to be necessary.
The last screw that was for the crane of the cylinder do you have to put locktite and same for the grips?
The crane retaining screw I absolutely would *NOT* use any thread locker. The plunger and spring under that screw need to move freely. Any leak over of thread locker would risk causing an impediment.
I wouldn’t bother with it on the grip screw, either. I guess you could, but the grips on these are such a snug fit the screw is more or less redundant. By my estimate, you would notice it getting loose long before it actually caused a problem. I’d just snug it gently since it’s steel in brass- I’ve had no issues.
Some people like to use thread locker on the side plate screws. I don’t think that’s unreasonable if it’s a low temperate thread locker and used sparingly, but I personally don’t do it as I find it unnecessary.
Thank you 🙏 so much for your reply this makes me feel better knowing I reassemble the gun correctly.
@@killshot2534 These are remarkably simple compared to the old Python. The only tricky parts are getting the grips off without marring them, and getting them lined back up again to snap into place, and using the 90° snap ring pliers to control the V-spring.
Beyond that, it’s all pretty straightforward. Mainly just ensuring everything is clean so the various bearing surfaces can mate up correctly without binding, and being careful to not cross-thread anything since the threads are quite fine.
Excellent work. Thank you. Hope I never have to do that. 😁
In all likelihood you probably won’t. Since this was a new release and nobody else had shown the internals, I was curious to see what design and manufacturing choices had been made.
As far as I can tell these are a robust design of good quality and would likely go decades without needing the internals serviced as long as there isn’t any contamination from dirt or the like.
Good video. Easy to follow. The only thing was that cheap looking craftsman screw driver. It just looks like it is gonna pop out, booger up the screw and gouge the hell out of that nice Python. Yikes!
It is fitted to the screw. I’ve used the same screwdriver on S&W screws for years. (It just so happens to also fit Colt screws.)
I have a four part video series on how I fit screwdrivers. Been doing it for many years, and it works great. Perfect fit with what’s essentially a parallel grind.
When looking at the transfer bar. Is there a slight crack of some sort on yours? I'm only asking because mine has a slight slit in it. It is not jagged but rather a clean line. Don't know if I need to send it in for repair or if this was by design for some reason.
I haven’t had it apart in a month or two… but if I remember correctly that appears to be a metal injection molded part which is a manufacturing practice which leaves a seam line from the mold.
Are you sure what you’re seeing isn’t just a mark remaining from manufacturing?
thanks for the video. Just a question: if you look at the cylinder latch from the top, can you see the side of the cylinder latch zigzag spring or it is perfectly flat in the side plate? i can see the zigzag spring of my python (just before the plastic pin) and i don't know if it's normal. It seems to function properly though ...
If I remember right I can see the plastic pin and just the slightest bit of the zigzag spring. I thought it was a little odd, too, but I think that’s how they’re supposed to be.
@@ColterBrog thank you very much!
Given all the hysteria about two screws on the left side holding the side plate on…does anyone know the correct torque for these screws ?
I’ll have to do some research. I think these are 5-44 screws but will need to verify that. Making some assumptions on grade of stainless, and referencing a screw chart from Fastenal it appears 8.0 in-lbs is recommended maximum for a lubricated 5-44 screw in 18-8 stainless steel. Because of the presence of solvents and oil I would consider gun screws to be lubricated unless intentionally degreased.
I can do some testing this weekend and get back to you with a more well supported answer.
This is helpful. Some authors have tried to reverse engineer the spec by applying bracketed up torque as they try to unfasten the screw…usually 8-10 in lbs . There is supposedly some anti vibration thread coating …or maybe some locktite depending on the serial number. The warranty is supposedly invalidated if you take the plate off. So the correct snug would seem to head several of the real, or perceived issues.
@@wendellkeesling6285 I have heard reports of newer revolvers having some type of thread locking compound. Mine showed no evidence of any treatment of the threads at all. I bought it brand new in October 2021. My rear side plate screw was very loose, as in not tight at all, after relatively limited use with .38 Special. (I did not check it when brand new.) The grips held the side plate down so I experienced no functional issues at all.
I have never used a torque driver on revolver side plate screws. I just snug them down decently but not getting too crazy with it. (I know that’s completely subjective.) It’s the same way I’ve done all revolvers for 15+ years and it hasn’t failed me yet.
Maybe I’ll snug the screws until it feels “right” to me, and then lower the value on the torque driver until it comes free. At least it will give some idea of what I’m doing that has been working.
@@wendellkeesling6285 Based on my hand and my old, not-recently-calibrated torque driver, it seems that 10 in-lbs feels like the right amount of tightening.
My driver’s spring may be getting weak with age, so that could conceivably be 8 in-lbs in reality.
I think a range of 8-10 in-lbs is probably a safe practice.
Goodbye warranty
I’m a kind and generous soul, voiding warranties for the benefit of mankind.
@@ColterBrog I’m just saying you may know what your doing but a vast majority don’t and you should’ve mentioned removing the side plate voids colts warranty.
@@ColterBrog What’s your honest opinion on this remake python, I have a guy that wants to trade me heads up for my 686 No dash 6” for the 4.25” version. I’m just not sure I see the quality in the Colt compared to Smiths of yesteryear. A lot of people are bashing the Colt and saying it’s a Taurus with lipstick..
@@alphasmurf6563 I feel like that’s common knowledge- unauthorized disassembly of pretty much anything, firearm or otherwise, voids warranty.
Colt’s warranty is only a year anyway. If they really didn’t want these revolvers worked on, they should offer a better warranty repair period. Beyond that, if they didn’t want people to work on them they should have actually assembled it correctly.
@@alphasmurf6563 I don’t think the Colt is a Taurus with lipstick… and I’m not really sure what people might be referencing with that. It had some minor assembly issues where I had to tighten some screws they forgot to, but the overall quality seems fine to me. It’s well-fitted and a slick action.
I have a review video that gives some more detail, and also a side-by-side with the S&W 66 where you can see some of the functions compared. (Mainly focused on safety aspects.)
I don’t think I’d let go of an old S&W… they’re scarce items and highly sought after. The Colt is current production and used ones will be coming around in future years.
I think the answer is keep the S&W and get a Colt, also. That’s what I did.