Rover SD1 V8 3.5 Vanden Plas EFI Engine Rebuild Part 1 - Crankshaft and Pistons
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มี.ค. 2021
- Part 1 of the rebuild of a Rover V8 engine. This engine is for a 1985 Rover SD1 Vanden Plas EFI. It is a 3.5 litre unit with 9.75:1 compression ratio.
In this video i installed the crank and pistons, with all new bearings and piston rings. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I have a handful of these early 215ci. Buick's & Oldsmobile's sitting here. They were given to me by my Boss who had them in one of His many Scrapyards since the mid-to-late 60's when they were only a few years old. All have 4-Speed Borg-Warner's behind them None were ever rebuilt or stuffed into any Chassis since I've had them. I DO have one mounted mid-ship in a '65 Chevy Corvair and a few in stock Buick Specials and Oldsmobile F-85's. Neat engines but they were soon superseded by more modern designs,not counting the very popular Small Block Chevy...
Yeah... When Rover came across the design they were like what? You're not using this? We'll 'ave it! Apart from being too small for American tastes of the time and forseen future, the basic design was bang on and lived on in Rover products for decades growing to 4.6 and even 5.0 with TVR and you know how competitive engine development is in Europe. The 'more modern designs' were more of the same, just bigger. Buick did Rover a great favour, but it would never have supported the muscle car era displacements so you can see why they sold the design off
Yes i think the idea of teh alloy block was spawned after or during a fuel crisis. The thought being an alloy block to house steel liners, with the reduced weight and improved fuel efficiency. But expensive to make, and ultimately not much point in the us market. However, over here, gave impressive power to weight figures compared to the iron straight sixes of the time and became quite a decent package. I have a book that shows all teh evolution and the different block castings through the years. Loads of little changes to evolve it that i never knew about.
Really enjoying watching you do this rebuild.
Glad you enjoying it. Ive now uploaded part 2 or the rebuild.
The ring end gap is normally measured 1 inch down the bore on American V-8 engines but the thing is if your just re ringing a used engine the bore will be worn tapered with more ring end gap clearance at the top of the bore than the bottom of the bore so checking the gap at the bottom of the pistons travel is good advice for just re-ringing an engine that has just been de glazed with a ball hone for instance if the engine has been bored and honed by a machine shop then just checking the gap at the top is fine since the bore won't have much taper cylinders wear more near the top due to higher combustion pressures
Old pint glass full of tea ha love it. Great video engine starting to look a beut 👌🏽
Cheers Sat billa. I had a bit of a tea related fail. I was tidying up my work bench and spilt a whole pint of tea across it that then drained down onto my shelves underneath :(
That's looking absolutely beautiful. Nice quality work and very cool making sure you didn't use seals with a question mark over them!
Thanks Hydorah
thats going to be a beast of a engine when its built..👌 don't forget the free flowing exhaust manifolds. from what ive been watching off other youtube sites they seem to get rid of gasses more efficiently. will go nicely with that cam..... fuel&air in and exhaust gasses out! 👌👍
great stuff James...very satisfying. ..that's going to be a sweet engine I reckon.
Should be. Shame its gonna be coupled to and auto box :(
Enjoyed watching that Nice one
Cheers Alan.
Very very nice indeed. (Personally I’ve always preferred the efi motor for general road use). Should be a really sweet ride 👍
I had a vitesse as a daily driver in my early 20's. That efi never gave any trouble. Worked perfect.
Skillz dude 👍🏻
Cheers
Wonderful videos. May need to do my Griffith engine soon; got a link to that workshop manual please?
YES
Part 2 is uploading now
Just when we've had a drought of videos, you upload several at once! Not complaining James, excellent viewing. How many projects have you actually got on the go? I don't know how you don't end up getting confused with what to do next and which bit is which engine or car! Credit to you excellent knowledge and skill.
I was on holiday this week, so i had some time to edit the old video and then a few days to play in the garage without feeling guilty!
Hello, what is the workshop manual you’ve got please?
The one I’ve got is crap, I’ve looked on eBay but they relate to a whole car, not just the engine
Great video and content. Just building my fourth rover v8 and I always grind away the casting bits at the bottom of the valley where the bottom of the follower bores are. Think this helps with oil drainage back into sump but also main advantage is small bits can break off over time and hinder bearing life. What are your thoughts please.
Hi Gregory, thanks. Yes sounds like a good idea. I’ve heard of people doing that before and it makes sense. I’ve also heard some people drill a hole at the front of the valley so oil can drain into the nose of the camshaft and the top sprocket so the chain is better lubricated. Not tried it myself. Have fun! James
Hello!! I'm about to build a LR v8 3.9 engine!! And I have a question!! The brand of the pistons on the left side point forward and those on the right side point backward? (LR V8 3.9) thanks
Didn’t you remove the plastic bits on the oil rings prior to installing the pistons. Only saying this as I have a set here and some of these plastic bit have already fallen off in the packaging.. surely these would just melt in situ..
Where did you get that book?
think i got it off ebay. Aout £40 i think?
Who did you get to do your engineering work?
I got a place local to me. But its pretty normal stuff any decent engine machinists can sort. Just make sure you ask them to get the thrust bearings the appropriate size and also that the valves are cut into the heads so that the stems all sit exactly the same height in the cylinder head. Some machine shops dont understand that the rocker gear and valve clearances cant be individually adjusted, and that the whole rocker shaft can be raised or lowered but not each rocker in isolation. (unless you spunk out loads of money and buy adjustable rocker push rods)
@@nitrosilvia You are very lucky to have someone close to hand. Where i am, in Herne Bay, Kent, I haven't found anyone.... i'm looking to do a rebuild of a Maxi engine...
Good luck with your build!
i dont know anyone your end of Kent, but Thurston engineering are just over in essex and have a good reputation Ive never used them myself
www.thurstonengineering.co.uk/vintage-classic-engine-rebuilds.php
@@Adrianmazda6 dont know anyone your end of Kent, but Thurston engineering are just over in essex and have a good reputation Ive never used them myself
www.thurstonengineering.co.uk/vintage-classic-engine-rebuilds.php
Time for new pants ????
Wasnt that scary was it??... oh wait you mean my deliberately provocative undergarment. Yes they are seriously well past it. Bin time methinks.
He can't afford new pants! There's Rover parts to buy!!
Oh God no .... not commando 😳