Rover SD1 V8 3.5 Vanden Plas EFI Engine Rebuild Part 2 - Cylinder heads, hydraulic lifter pre load
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- Part 2 of the rebuild of a Rover V8 engine. This engine is for a 1985 Rover SD1 Vanden Plas EFI. It is a 3.5 litre unit with 9.75:1 compression ratio.
In this video i installed the cylinder heads, the rocker gear and then adjusted the hydraulic followers / lifter / tappets pre load using a shim kit. Its a bit of a faff, but if you have had your heads skimmed its a good idea.
NOTE: I didnt put any sealer on the threads of the cylinder head bolts. I just used clean engine oil to act as a lube to aid torqueing. The old rover manual says to put 3M EC 776 on the threads, the newer range rover manual says to use Loctite 572. I think this is to stop corrosion of the threads, but not 100% sure. The newest range rover manual for cars with the non re-useable stretch bolts says just use clean engine oil.
I thought some stuff had to be applied to the threads of the headbolts to prevent corrosion between the aluminium and the bolts?
Yes thats correct. The old rover book says use 3m ec776 lubricant sealant and the newer range rover book says to use Loctite 572 which is a low strength thread lock. However i just used clean oil. It should be ok. Ive only seen head bolts hard to remove on a P6 engine, where they were pretty much welded in.
Im going to make this a sticky comment and add something to the video description, thanks.
Just been reading again... the later range rover manual for engines using the stretch bolts says just use oil, no sealer! Who knows!
@@nitrosilvia Interesting idea....Grafting the new MG Marvel R Electric all-wheel-drive system three electric motors: one on the front axle and two on the rear axle into an SD1 providing about 288 hp(even more hp with tunning).... keeping the MG/Rover ties alive ?? thedriven.io/2021/03/17/mg-unveils-electric-tri-motor-marvel-r-and-mg5-wagon/
@@kylereese4822 I like your thinking very much. I always thought the SD1 looked quite futuristic. Electric motors would be great.
Once again am surprised your subs are so low. Your knowledge and calm way of describing your work is fantastic, to say that you are just a hobbyist, is to do yourself down. You're. Far better than some other TH-cam videos where they clearly don't know what they're doing. 👍👍👍
Thanks very much!
I've watched a lot of Rover V8 build videos over the last 12 months (I lightly "refreshed" my own that I bought without any history over lockdown) and this is without doubt the best series. Thank you.
Cool thanks very much
3 great videos back to back, cheers James 👌
Cheers Shaun. I uploaded them because i recorded the footage and just wanted it edited and uploaded and out of my way! I wont start work on the actual car for a while. Also i think the lifter preload stuff with help some folk.
@@nitrosilviaI find these kind of videos very interesting even though I wouldn't dream of attempting an engine rebuild myself.
Fantastic stuff, really helpful as I embark on rebuilding the 4.6 in my P38 - wish me luck!
Good luck! Note some of the torques and methods might not be identical to the 4.6 so deffo try and download the electronic workshop manual if you can. James
@@nitrosilvia thanks! I've been slightly blessed with a printed version of the bazillion page P38 workshop manual and engine overhaul guide 😃
I thought exactly the same about the cheap timing pulleys and chain..
Will check my preload when I get that far but not skimming heads or using different Gaskets so hopefully should be fine.
Thought you explained the preloaded fine.
You need to tidy that workshop pronto.
Hi matey. Really interesting seeing someone work on the internals of a classic British engine 🤣
When they run great, its a quality piece of British Engineering. When they go wrong its useless American Buick crap ;)
Nice seeing you doing something different instead of welding. Look forward to seeing the car.
Yes certainly makes a change. I have another car (quite a few) that needs welding, but ive been putting it off. This is much more fun.
@@nitrosilvia when are you getting back on to diesel sd1?
Once dotty is done, im going to have a shuffle around and bring teh diesel back to my place. I need that done and painted, its dragged on for so long.
@@nitrosilvia cool I would love to have a sd1 to go with the rover 216 vdp sd3 that I got last summer. Dotty looks great
Keep the explanations coming! I doubt I’ll ever rebuild my engine myself but the vids are quite enjoyable to see how it all goes together.
difference in those chains is remarkable
It is nuts really. If the links are the same length then it shouldnt make a difference to the timing, but the chain is the only thing holding the cam shaft in front to rear!!!!
Another great episode of what promises to be a lovely engine when completed. (Just a quick note, during this episode it was easily heard a radio broadcast quietly in the background (eg 30-31mins) not a problem at all, just saying) 👍😊👌
Hahaha yes i either have talksport and football or absolute 80's. I usually turn it down for video but probably not enough that time.
Brilliant very clear will help me a lot when I rebuild soon
Really loved these first 3 videos. I’m currently tidying up the inlet manifold and rockers on a TVR Chimaera so seeing your rebuild has helped me know what to look out for when I have the valley gasket and rockers off.
Looking forward to your next video and your tips for fitting the valley gasket. I’m interested to know what products you use for the end seals and if you use anything such as Wellseal for the water ports.
I was messing with the inlet manifold today. Im still in the cleaning up bolts process. Hopefully ill have it refitted this week and then a video next weekend. I plan on using hylomar blue around the water passages and loctite black on the end of the valley gasket seals. Ill check out what the books say to use. James
Hi James love the videos, looking forward to the next LDV install. Just wanted to get in touch and say if you ever require a replacement wing mirror glass, interior mirror or gauge glass please get in touch. We are the last produces of automotive wing mirrors in the UK, so can can cut any mirror, in any radius for any vehicle of any age!
Best
Luke
Hi Luke, really appreciate that. Most kind. I will have an update on the van quite soon, still messing about with alternators.
Fantastic videos
Really interesting and very useful detail well done ! Makes me wonder what the 4.6 of my dads range rover would look like at 180k miles
I think if it has had regular oil changes it will show wear but be generally be ok. If they arent serviced regularly the camshafts cam wear out quite quickly and wont get far past 100,000 miles. If he hasnt had his replaced yet, the lobes will likely be very worn. Sometimes a v8 can be really sick but because they have a load of torque low down, the owners dont always notice! Especially in light cars like sd1/tvr/morgan etc.
@@nitrosilvia cheers ! I had it for couple of summers it seemed alright but I maybe time for a refresh when I next visit.
Can't say it's the best nor the worst maintained more but it blew its head gaskets back in 2008 and supposedly the land rover stealership had new heads put on but thats debatable.
Really helpful thankyou
Glad it helped
great videos cant wait for the next one
How much did you skim off the heads to compensate for the composite gaskets?
Thanks for this
I think you should do a Range Rover classic rebuild PLEASEEEE MANNNN
I would absolutely love one. In fact i was looking on ebay and gumtree yesterday for one. They seem to be rocketing in value :(
That would be incredible my dream Range Rover Classic Vogue SE in Ardennes green,
Grey leather interior, darker burr walnut veneer. With the 4.4 TDV8 engine conversion.
@@nitrosilvia matey please try your best this will blow up your channel and make loads of moneyssssss
@@91drunkenmonkey I dont actually make any money from any of this stuff. I never bothered monetising it. Ill leave all that shite to the pro's. But i do love range rover classics. My grandparents had 3, all v8's. all brand spankers. One got nicked and used in a ram raid of a video store in Manchester.
Is it the Glass Collector's day off?
Have you done part 3 of the 1985 Rover SDI Vanden Plas EFI yet?
Not yet. I have sent the lower part of the inlet away to be vapour blasted and I haven’t got it back yet. I have everything thing else so it’s a bit frustrating!
Think your doing a fantastic job on a BEAUTIFUL engine and explaining each stage really well, your becoming a Caveman in a Man cave with underwear that will soon be a loincloth 😂 if they detach from the waistband anymore 😉,😂😂. Love your videos and your style of doing them , keep it up 👍🏻 Oh and the underpants too 😁👌🏻
I was going to edit my torn Calvin's out of the video, but i thought meh, it'll keep the hoards of adoring female fans happy!
@@nitrosilvia Yeah I can imagine the adoring women and quite a few men bidding to buy the the old CKs 😂😂,
Great V8 videos. Reminded me of doing V8 head gaskets and oil pump in a P6 30 years ago. Do you still pack the oil pump drive gears with vaseline to build initial oil pressure?
Yes lots of vaseline. Or the other way is you remove the distributor and fit a tool onto the end of the oil pump drive and spin the pump up very quickly with a high speed drill. Thats what i do with brand new engines just to be on the safe side.
Not seen your Vanden Plas efi model is it in the stunning blue mettalic shade of paint .
It Oporto Red
Dont use a plastic tooth cam wheel, you can get all steel items, much better!
Are you ok? No videos for a couple of weeks is unlike you 😐
James, what do you think about the way the lifters are preloaded in this video: th-cam.com/video/YIitbcf0IWA/w-d-xo.html
Pretty awesome. The benefits of having adjustable pushrod lengths or adjustable rockers. I could buy adjustable ones for this engine, but they are expensive, and this is just a road engine that isnt really being built for a high performance application, so going with standard stuff and then shimming it. Its a bit of a compromise but better than just bolting teh rockers to teh heads.
@@nitrosilvia thanks for the explanation!
First
Nice work but why not name and shame the manufacturers and suppliers of those cheap crappy aftermarket parts ? Did you think you were buying decent stuff ?