this is a great video - not a lot of extra narrative - got the point on each installation. i'm going to use this to tile my floor in my bathroom, rather than cement board. excited to use this product!
This is a great video. Please link a follow up video showing the 2nd layer of protection using your sheet membrane, corners and sealant! 🙂I'm a BH holder and always promoting our products when I find them superior to the alternatives. One point to note is that ideally you want a center drain in a square pan so the wall pan height is close to the same all the way around for a clean level tile install. If you ever replace this video, consider more of a square demo with center drain.
Would it be preferable to install the pan wedges first, then the walls? That way if any water migrated through the grout joints, it would run down the wall panel and hit the top of the pitched shower pan. Otherwise you are completely relying on the sealant at the pan/wall seam. How flexible is this sealant once cured? I worry about building settling. That said, I am planning on trying this system in my house soon. It looks great.
Chris, you can install the pan first then walls - if you feel more comfortable. GoBoard Pro Sealant has an allowable joint movement of 25%. I've highlighted GoBoard Pro Sealant's allowable joint movement percentage on this data sheet: bit.ly/GoBoard-Pro-Sealant-Joint-Movement
Chris I’m a total newbie looking to do a linear drain but doing the pan first would mean I would have to worry about trying to slope the bottom of the walls but doing the walls first means not worrying about that
@@Elviretubea drain kit that is a long thin drain found in some systems where the drain is sometimes placed to the side. Vs the classic big round drain in the center of the shower.
I am totally floored (pun intended!). I am SO excited, you have no clue. I am a 73 yo widow rejuvenating my entire home, e v e r y t h i n g, except installation of countertop and laminate flooring (could not bend as easily as I wanted and got hip replacement, LOL! good to go again) and now last part, converting bathtub to shower - yeah prepping for the future! Can't wait to get started, will you sponsor me, pay for the product, make a video and use me as advertising that anybody can do this, not only guys in their 40's??? Only thing I will not do is the relocation of the faucet, don't want to do the soddering. Let me know. Any tips or suggestions are welcome! Oh, I forgot - what I like MOST about this system is that I can determine where I want the drain. If there is anything I do not like is taking shower and standing on the drain. My rainforrest shower is 2ft out the wall, and thus I want the drain where is was for the bathtub, less than 1ft from the wall. And I can do this now with this system and do not have to comply with all those handymen who think they know it better than me. YEHAAAA!
This looks like you will have the drain pan terminate against the wall at different levels all the way around. The longest section is going to end higher on the wall than the other sections. So you have to cut each tile to match the slope in order to have an even top line to the first row of tiles? This is a daunting task.
Question, when you do the floor pan, do you have to slope it manually or does it automatically have enough slope towards the drain when you do the angle cuts?
I cannot believe that best practice would have the Go Board on the walls before the floor. It is counterintuitive. Also, there is no reinforcement at the 90 degree right angles. Waterproofing there is completely dependent on the sealant between the walls and the floors. Surely the the manufacturer would want a face membrane.
It has been tested to rigorous standards, but you can use GoBoard Banding or GoBoard Seam Fabric in the changes of plane. Details here: GoBoard Seam Fabric: www.jm.com/en/goboard/goboard-seam-fabric/
I heard about this product for the first time today. The shower pan installation looks ingenious and well thought out. But I'm only an amateur, that happens to have built quite a few showers so the value of my opinion is suspect. One issue is how level the floor is that this system goes over needs to be. My guess is that the sub floor is not going to be level enough in a lot of older buildings. Maybe self leveling compound would be a solution for that? Or maybe cut out the old sub floor and sister the joists to achieve dead level would be the way to go? I think I'd probably do the latter. At my skill level, installing self leveling compound would not be precise enough for something like this. My little secret: I switched to 3/8 inch per foot slope because I didn't want to take a chance on divots that wouldn't drain.
Per our instructions, a level floor is required - so yes - we recommend using self leveling underlayment (SLU). This might be a part of the project you could always hire a contractor to perform.
Yes, visit www.JM.com/GoBoard for this install guide: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/goboard-technical-guides/GB-510-GoBoard-Point-Drain-Installation-For-Cement-Slab.pdf
Been installing wedi for 8 years now. The tile shop started carrying go board and I was encouraged to try it. Haven’t used it yet but I can’t see us using this. The base is cut and a lot more complicated to install. Can’t imagine the cost is worth it. Also why wouldn’t you just install the base first then the walls, to overlap the seams?
The shingling effect doesn't apply in this case. Also, this kit enables on-site customization including off-set drain placements. Cutting the wedges to fit means won't need to move the plumbing in some situations you may come into.
Go board is a good board for a economical price You should always use a mask as that dust leaves a nasty cough. That drain grate should be in not on. On makes it so you break the grout or caulk seal when removing the grate. Was that perimeter of floor level after installing.
The perimeter levelness has no impact on drainage, as long as you have the 1/4" per foot slope in the pan you're good. Speak with the designer on the tile design and how you would need to adjust the pattern, if necessary.
I remodeled my guest bath last year and did the tub walls in GoBoard. I fell in love with the product. Now I am doing the master bath and decided to go with the GoBoard Wedges and point drain. My only complaint is that I am not in love with the aesthetics of drain. I would like to use the Signature Hardware Cohen 4" Square Tile-In Shower Drain - Less Flange Model:406494 or maybe even the 6". Would these be compatible?
For linears drains, yes you would use the wedges in that way. However, for point drains you cut four wedges at 45° from the corners of the clamping collar on the drain base, then install wedges so that all the low ends of the wedges towards the drain. Think of it as an envelope cut style. Page 2 of our brochure shows you some possible configurations: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/insulation-systems/products/goboard/showerpankit/goboardshowerkit/gb-502-jm-goboard-shower-pan-en09152021.pdf
As a contractor I view the showers the same as exterior of a house. You don't side the house then put the roof on because each thing should lap from bottom up. Now that said I have forever poured rubber pans and used wedi and goboard on the walls. With that I have always had rubber up the wall 6 inches. I do want to try the tapered panels and ordered the kit. I do plan to have the pan down first then the walls. Is there actually a life or use life of the caulk? Curious if anyone has made a shower then tore it out like some years later to see what was happening. In this install I am not liking the half inch subfloor should be minimum 3/4" becuase of flex over years of use most often tile that has failed is over improper subfloor support.... Lastly if the floor tile is set at a 45 pattern I would think the pieces cut might have to be altered which I have never had to deal with on poured bases. This should be interesting or is tape best used on the angled joints I would think to bridge any grout line stacking on the pan seam. I might try this shower pan system but I always use liner drains so not sure I can get the depth I need in order to set a liner drain... will find out on this next shower.
Hi Marshal! Thank you for your comments. Pan first requires angle wall board cuts for offset and rectangular pans. Cutting ½” rabbet in wedges would be recommended for wedges first. Rabbet on thicker side, that is. Better to do walls first. Shingling effect doesn’t apply when using 1/8” gaps and sealant. Have you ever seen the fish tank our team built using GoBoard? Check out Tile Backer Board playlist on our TH-cam channel. You could optionally use GoBoard Seam Fabric for reinforcement - or an equivalent.
The preferred method is to secure the door to the wall. Another installation method includes cutting channels for setting wooden dowels into and through the foam, for more secure fastening of door hardware. Then use GoBoard Pro Sealant to well waterproof the dowels and foam penetrations. Door track can also be adhered to the curb using GoBoard Pro Sealant.
Does the GoBoard wall sheets go all the way down to the floor? If using a traditional pre-slope, liner, and sloped pan, should the GoBoard go all the way to a concrete floor also? This seems needlessly dependant upon the aquadefense or redgard. I am building my GoBoard shower this weekend. I started the concrete curb tonight and planned to build the pan pre-slope tomorrow and final pan the next day -- but perhaps with GoBoard I can put the walls up first? But again, this seems needlessly risky.
thorough video, interested to try this out. One question...when you applied the thinset to the decking, is it recommended to dampen the decking first with sponge/water, so that your modified thinset doesn't cure too quickly? I've seen it on many vids, just wasn't sure if that is required here with the wedge system.
So if i have a concrete pan that has the type of flange installed with a adjustable neck for a mortar pan ill have to bust the slab arpund it and re do it all. No adapter?
You shouldn't need an adapter. Here's our drain installation for cement slab instructions: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/insulation-systems/products/goboard/goboardaccessories/goboardpointdrain/gb-510-jm-goboard-point-drain-installation-cement-slab.pdf
If I’m using Go Board for the shower walls with a preformed shower pan should I install the go board and butt the pan up to it or install the shower pan first butted tot he studs then install go board leaving 1/8th in gap and sealing with Go Board sealer?
Redguard should NEVER be used in a shower! With redguard, you have to use a modified thinset which is modified with latex additive which is organic and is a food source for mold! People who use redguard in their showers WILL HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MOLD GROWTH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! UNMODIFIED THINSET ONLY IN A SHOWER!!!!!
@@michaelhorn9114 As a professional bathroom remodeling contractor, I use redguard on every shower. I've been using it for over 15 years. There is no mold growth issue. Once modified thinset dries, it doesn't 'uncure' and become a food source. You really don't know what you're talking about, sorry.
First thing that hit me was having to buy 2 curbs to do a standard 60” shower. Why can’t the company just make a 60” or little longer curb? It means less seams and less chance fir water seepage.
Can this be installed on a concrete slab (basement). Originally our plumber was going to rough in for a prefab shower base, but I’d rather do all tile if I can. If it is doable, how would he rough in the drain? Still 1 5/8 below concrete surface? Thanks in advance for your guidance.
You can install this on a concrete slab, in a basement. Assuming there is no existing drain in your basement currently, you would be best to discuss your options with your plumber.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard I would like to use this system in my bathroom ( already used GoBoard around tub in the main bathroom and I love the product ) but I also have concrete floor and I am pretty sure that the drain is not PVC or ABS, but metal ( now I have an old style fiberglass prefabricated pan ). Would this drain be adaptable to it? How would you affix it to the subfloor ( obviously cannot use the 4 screws like in the demonstration video )? Also, how many panels come in the kit? Enough to build a 2.5'x5" shower pan?
So if I'm using 1/2" Goboard on the outside of a bathtub for the floor, do I still have to mortar it to the plywood then screw? Or can I just screw it down dry? Then I have to leave an 1/8th inch gap all around for the walls & in front of the tub and the one seam I have and then fill all those gaps with the sealant? Then I can tile?
Just fasten the the 1/2" GoBoard on the outside of the tub. Fill the gaps with sealant. Wait for the sealant to skin over - and then you're ready to tile.
Here's a guide: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/insulation-systems/products/goboard/goboardaccessories/goboardpointdrain/gb-510-jm-goboard-point-drain-installation-cement-slab.pdf
I read that the shower drain line needs to be at LEAST 1 5/8 inches below the top of the subfloor. What do you do if it is 2 1/2 inches below the top of the subfloor. Nowhere on the spec sheet does it state the length of the drain body or what to do if your pipe is shorter than the 1 5/8 inches.
Not sure we're understanding your question. Could you cite the information you read regarding the 1 5/8"? Are you referring to the plumbing waste pipe? Or the length of the drain body? Here's the cut sheet for the GoBoard Point Drain: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/goboard-accessories/GB-503-GoBoard-Point-Drain-Cut-Sheet.pdf
Hello, the TCNA recommends using caulking in the corners and changes of plane, but matching grout color could be an issue. Here is an article on the topic offered by JLC: www.jlconline.com/how-to/interiors/caulk-or-grout-in-shower-corners_o
Thanks. I think if the wall is completely 100% covered with a membrane like Kerdi and wrapped through each corner, then there would be no need for caulking. The membrane ‘gives’ so much that there is no tension buildup in the tile, even in the corners. However, I am sure kerdi or similar membrane requires more labor and cost. @@johnsmanvillegoboard
hello, is this approved in South florida by FBC 2017? here we use concrete slabs instead of wood sub-floors, sounds like a great option but i am worry about applications in condominium apartments, future leaks if the sealant fails, etc.
Hello! Here is a link to our instruction guide for cement slab: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/insulation-systems/products/goboard/goboardaccessories/goboardpointdrain/gb-510-jm-goboard-point-drain-installation-cement-slab.pdf
I feel like this could fail for sure since it’s just caulk joints so why couldn’t you just add the go board (membrane) on top of this to make sure that no issues will happen at all.
A 2nd level of protection is recommended but "not necessary" as their YT agent states. They make and offer the additional fabric & liquid membranes and corners. Def use them to provide extra strength & waterproofing. Don't rely on just letting liquid sealant hold up to constant moisture wicking below grout.
We recommend tiling the shower walls first, to help hide the angle cuts sometimes required near the shower pan in rectangular, and offset drain location situations.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard I believe a level perimeter could be achieved if you keep all the perimeter the same thickness and have your cut go from wall corner to drain corner instead of someone within the middle of the wall. I've used your system before, just never with an offset drain.
We recommend tiling the shower walls first, to help hide the angle cuts sometimes required near the shower pan in rectangular, and offset drain location situations.
I think I would go with the Kerdi pre-pitched shower floor system myself. I'd also use Mapei Aqua Defense over Red Guard because it doesn't have an odor like the Red Guard has. The only draw back is that Kerdi has a lifetime warranty using only if you use the Schlueter All Set mortar, and only 25 years if you use a modified LFT mortar. The All Set mortar is a bit costly and it turns people away from using it. Do you have linear drain systems for shower floors also that work with Go Board?
The benefit of using GoBoard Wedges is that you can accommodate more shower sizes and there's no need to wait for a specially sized pan. Also, you don't need to move the plumbing. Simply customize on-site. With the GoBoard system, you don't need to use a liquid membrane. Red Guard or an equivalent is unnecessary. The board is already waterproof, and you only need to seal the joints using GoBoard Pro Sealant or a manufacturer's approved alternative.
Use either Modified or non-modified. Water test depending on the building inspector - always good to test anyway. Not sure what you mean on your last question? Precaution? GoBoard is inherently waterproof. Just use GoBoard Pro Sealant in the 1/8" gaps between boards.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard That is spotlighting how improbable that drill is and sounds. It sounded like something that was bought from Ronco or Harbor Freight.
@@thyslop1737 Not really certain what the drill has to do with anything? *confused* We'll run it past the marketing department to see if we can start using the tagline: "GoBoard Fasteners are designed so well that you can even use a Tupperware party door prize drill to install them."
Josh in the Detroit area the 48 in wedge panels are also most impossible to locate with buying the whole kit and the one shop that had them wants $80 a pop for each panel
n0rcal, thank you for your question. The kit is available now. You can find distributors here in our partner locator. Just search by location: www.jm.com/en/contact/partner-locator/
strong??? curbs serve to keep water in not to use as a step. wood frame or Durarock curb will do. Also if planned correctly, you can go seamless for a updated cleaner design...just saying
Would be nice if you supply some links to videos of "professionals" who have used this product in their projects. The leak factor makes this type of install high risk for the DIYer, so more examples the better.
It's not uncommon for a DIYer to consider hiring a tile contractor. GoBoard Shower Pan Kit is very simple to install. It's easier than the tiling part! Like and subscribe to keep watching our TH-cam channel, or you can follow us on our Instagram channel. We share IG Stories of professional contractors that tag us in their work.
Do you have an idea on how long a proper install will last using just the sealant as water proofing as shown in the video? Also, can red guard be added over seams that were sealed with the polymer sealant as a redundant added water proofing protection for piece of mind? Thanks.
So, as a DIY guy that’s looking to redo the shower in my master bathroom it would be nice to know what you put under the floor on top of the plywood. I assume it’s thin set, but you know what happens when you assume! I is a college gradumate (spelling intentional) and a licensed surveyor and former helicopter pilot, so I like to think I’m as smart as the average bear, yet I’m still not sure what you used. Is this available in Phoenix? Thanks
My friend who is a general contractor and uses this system all the time and loves it says to use mapei brand Keraflex plus and then set your pieces and walk around to set it in place. Also he goes the extra mile to use aqua defense and a water membrane tape on all joints and seams to make sure it’s absolutely water tight! We are installing this system now! Good luck!
You would use a modified thinset for pourous subfloors (unsealed wood, etc.) and a non-modified thinset if there is a non-porous subfloor (or a subfloor with a waterproof coating on it). Many modified thinsets require the moisture to exit for the thinset to cure, so if the thinset is sandwiched between two non-porous materials it cannot cure. Non-modifed thinsets are identified by having ANSI A118.1 written on the bag. Modified thinsets include ANSI A118.4, ANSI A118.11, and ANSI A118.15.
GoBoard Pro Sealant is permanently elastic. You can download the warranty certificate here: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/goboard-warranty/10-Yr-Limited-Warranty-for-GoBoard.pdf
Rumor has it the sealant needs to get inside the edges to seal and bond from what I've gathered. I've used nothing but kerdi, but I'm using this on my next job because it's cheaper (for the customer) so i hope i learn a lot today.
Read up a little bit on ASTM C719. 1/8" gaps allow the sealant to get inside - between the boards - for optimal performance in consideration of expansion and contraction.
GoBoard installers also utilize the "waste" as support material under their tile when cutting it, and because GoBoard is structural - they also fabricate custom benches, niches, and shelves.
where's the waterproof liner membrane? or secondary waterproofing. in total this huge amount of moving parts put together from general /substandard materials, leave too many opportunities for leakage over a short amount of time. A well thought-out leakproof system ensures worry-free functionality for decades to come
GoBoard Shower pan kit, as listed in our PMG-1439 product certifications, is compliant with all applicable standards for this product type; ANSI, ICC-ES, IAPMO, and ASME. We highlighted the compliance statement in the report for you: jm.showpad.com/share/U8SOHjow5nFQ5d5arVojg
@@johnsmanvillegoboard Sound quality, better framing of the shots, particularly the close ups.. Having said that, it looks like a great product. I wonder about its shear strength to resist inevitable framing movement. Watch some 'This Old House" for an excellent production style. ( I'm a Professional Cameraman, I'm picky, sorry.) I'm also a DIYer. with 7 rental units. I will say, I don't' like most of the super slick big company videos. too slick. I'm considering a small bathroom on my 3rd floor. Ive done a lot of stuff, including install 2 steam boilers by myself. Tile, for some reason scares the heck out of me.
Tile might scare the heck out of you, but I think our camera and sound people were probably scared too! We'll endeavor to do better and find the balance between too slick and not slick enough. We sort of tested some changes in planes using GoBoard as wallboard in an RV and the seams held up. No cracking. Are any of your rentals road-worthy? ;-)
The tcna handbook says no fasteners lower than 3” below the finished height of the curb. How do you fasten the bottom of the goboard? Can you glue it to the bottom of the studs and to the sill plate?
@@johnsmanvillegoboard But the kit comes with how many wedges in case the drain is offset like the one you demonstrated in the video? How many wedges did you need for that particular shower?
If you ever get a chance, build a small box container out of scrap GoBoard using GoBoard pro sealant and conduct a flood test experiment by filling it with water.
If you think it will, it surely will, Law of Attraction, you get what you focus your attention on. Look at all videos and read all materials. GoBoard has been long enough on the market, if it leaked, they would be gone years ago already.
I am sorry to say this, but as a remodeling contractor I simply don't trust this system. All sealants break down over time. In this video, there are so many areas joined together and just one little pinhole will result in so much damage. I'll stick to doing a traditional mud pan instead. I'd much rather put money in my pocket for the building of a properly built mud shower pan than into buying an overpriced system. Just my opinion.
Yeah that's why I would use a liquid membrane over everything. You do 3 coats should be about the thickness of a credit card. Then it's definitely not leaking.
Today’s silene based sealants are not like the old sealants. They are moisture curing and very resilient. If done properly, this install will equal any traditional method. Why paint over a waterproof board? You could paint over the seems for extra peace of mind I suppose. These water proof board systems are taking over for good reason. Also, using thin set alone to seal drains is not a good long term strategy. If you do that, just be sure to seal all seams with a silene based sealant of some sort. Many companies make them including Schluter, Laticrete, and RSS. I do like the mud bed system and still slope my own. I paint over that and then cover with a waterproof membrane. Go Board should consider making their 3x5 wall boards interlocking for better water proofing. But all in all a good system. And yes, I have used go board wall material and sealant but never their flooring material.
"As a remodeling contractor " means literally nothing. You have to come with better receipts to comment to make it worth talking. It's an amazing system
@@BryanScott-x7qI’m a ICC building inspector and retired contractor. You have to go with the installation instructions for the product being installed UL listed.
Music was super annoying, I would never use a shower pan that was cut in 4 sections...no way that isn't going to fail! Poorly made video from the company selling the product.
CheriW, I can sense that you feel very strongly about a list of things. Let’s start with the installation method of our pan. Here’s a link to our ICC-ES product certification. Highlighted are some key points to consider when deciding on our pan system. This document lists all of the evidence we submit in the form of industry standards testing results. You can trust the sealant. jm.showpad.com/share/k250zEQwlnCg42ls9PIMr
CheriW, regarding the super annoying music; it’s probably a track cut by one of the creative director’s kids who is in a garage band. Even though we had the Foo lined up for this gig, we couldn’t break a kid’s heart.
Mud is great! A couple of advantages of foam that are often overlooked is the reduction of weight on the subfloor, and moisture control. GoBoard is fungal and mold resistant. And with our wedge, the slope is consistent.
Been floating since 1991 at 11 year's old... I will never play with that after using this product. Adapt and overcome.... Gotta keep up with the times before you get outdated as some of my stubborn mentors.
Only if the shower pan area is perfectly square and the drain is exactly in the middle of area. For rectangular shower pan areas and / or offset drain locations, the wedge height against the walls and curb can vary depending on the situation. It's recommended to tile the walls first so the shower pan tiles hide the wall tiles that need to be cut to match the wedge slope.
k0harmer I suppose it ultimately depends on the skill and creativity of the tile setter. I’ve seen it done perfectly well on a diamond shaped pan. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@shawnareneecolorado If the different wedges are at different levels then it wouldn't work for me. I love and use GoBoard but I'll pass on the wedges.
this is a great video - not a lot of extra narrative - got the point on each installation. i'm going to use this to tile my floor in my bathroom, rather than cement board. excited to use this product!
Glad it was helpful!
This is a great video. Please link a follow up video showing the 2nd layer of protection using your sheet membrane, corners and sealant! 🙂I'm a BH holder and always promoting our products when I find them superior to the alternatives.
One point to note is that ideally you want a center drain in a square pan so the wall pan height is close to the same all the way around for a clean level tile install. If you ever replace this video, consider more of a square demo with center drain.
Thanks!
Would it be preferable to install the pan wedges first, then the walls? That way if any water migrated through the grout joints, it would run down the wall panel and hit the top of the pitched shower pan. Otherwise you are completely relying on the sealant at the pan/wall seam. How flexible is this sealant once cured? I worry about building settling. That said, I am planning on trying this system in my house soon. It looks great.
Chris, you can install the pan first then walls - if you feel more comfortable. GoBoard Pro Sealant has an allowable joint movement of 25%. I've highlighted GoBoard Pro Sealant's allowable joint movement percentage on this data sheet: bit.ly/GoBoard-Pro-Sealant-Joint-Movement
I wouldn’t chance it, def put pan before walls.
Chris I’m a total newbie looking to do a linear drain but doing the pan first would mean I would have to worry about trying to slope the bottom of the walls but doing the walls first means not worrying about that
I had the same question... as I am building a traditional pre-slope, liner, and pan. I think this should go down first.
Nice sub floor cut in. I am always open for new methods. I would just hope that the material has extra long longevity.
Polyiso foam has longevity, and GoBoard has a higher compression strength compared to other foam boards available.
I can’t be the only one thinking it would be great for JM to offer a linear drain kit
Explain what you mean, thanks 🤓
@@Elviretubea drain kit that is a long thin drain found in some systems where the drain is sometimes placed to the side. Vs the classic big round drain in the center of the shower.
It's in development!
@@johnsmanvillegoboard that’s good to hear, any ETA? Again a linear drain kit with goboard would be great
@@akilfahd No ETA yet, but we're getting really close!
This looks exactly like how the Wedi system installs and functions, but at half the price. What am I missing?
Where do I find the wendi system?
I am totally floored (pun intended!). I am SO excited, you have no clue. I am a 73 yo widow rejuvenating my entire home, e v e r y t h i n g, except installation of countertop and laminate flooring (could not bend as easily as I wanted and got hip replacement, LOL! good to go again) and now last part, converting bathtub to shower - yeah prepping for the future! Can't wait to get started, will you sponsor me, pay for the product, make a video and use me as advertising that anybody can do this, not only guys in their 40's??? Only thing I will not do is the relocation of the faucet, don't want to do the soddering. Let me know. Any tips or suggestions are welcome!
Oh, I forgot - what I like MOST about this system is that I can determine where I want the drain. If there is anything I do not like is taking shower and standing on the drain. My rainforrest shower is 2ft out the wall, and thus I want the drain where is was for the bathtub, less than 1ft from the wall. And I can do this now with this system and do not have to comply with all those handymen who think they know it better than me. YEHAAAA!
Please do a video for a 60x60 shower tray. Did one and it was tough getting the thick part against the wall. Did the best I could.
Thanks for your feedback! We're working on more videos!
This looks like you will have the drain pan terminate against the wall at different levels all the way around. The longest section is going to end higher on the wall than the other sections. So you have to cut each tile to match the slope in order to have an even top line to the first row of tiles? This is a daunting task.
You are correct, and considering the tile size it might take a little bit of math. Perhaps laser levels could help.
Question, when you do the floor pan, do you have to slope it manually or does it automatically have enough slope towards the drain when you do the angle cuts?
A couple questions:
1) Are the curbs pitched?
2) Are the shower head seals available separately (for multiple shower heads/body jets)?
The curbs are not pitched (or sloped). Yes, the shower seals are available separately. Thank you for the questions!
I cannot believe that best practice would have the Go Board on the walls before the floor. It is counterintuitive. Also, there is no reinforcement at the 90 degree right angles. Waterproofing there is completely dependent on the sealant between the walls and the floors. Surely the the manufacturer would want a face membrane.
It has been tested to rigorous standards, but you can use GoBoard Banding or GoBoard Seam Fabric in the changes of plane. Details here: GoBoard Seam Fabric: www.jm.com/en/goboard/goboard-seam-fabric/
I heard about this product for the first time today. The shower pan installation looks ingenious and well thought out. But I'm only an amateur, that happens to have built quite a few showers so the value of my opinion is suspect. One issue is how level the floor is that this system goes over needs to be. My guess is that the sub floor is not going to be level enough in a lot of older buildings. Maybe self leveling compound would be a solution for that? Or maybe cut out the old sub floor and sister the joists to achieve dead level would be the way to go? I think I'd probably do the latter. At my skill level, installing self leveling compound would not be precise enough for something like this. My little secret: I switched to 3/8 inch per foot slope because I didn't want to take a chance on divots that wouldn't drain.
Per our instructions, a level floor is required - so yes - we recommend using self leveling underlayment (SLU). This might be a part of the project you could always hire a contractor to perform.
Definitely a newb here but is it the drain piece that adds the necessary slope on the level floor?
Can this be applied on a concrete slab? How do you anchor the drain to the concrete?
Yes, visit www.JM.com/GoBoard for this install guide: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/goboard-technical-guides/GB-510-GoBoard-Point-Drain-Installation-For-Cement-Slab.pdf
Been installing wedi for 8 years now. The tile shop started carrying go board and I was encouraged to try it. Haven’t used it yet but I can’t see us using this. The base is cut and a lot more complicated to install. Can’t imagine the cost is worth it. Also why wouldn’t you just install the base first then the walls, to overlap the seams?
The shingling effect doesn't apply in this case. Also, this kit enables on-site customization including off-set drain placements. Cutting the wedges to fit means won't need to move the plumbing in some situations you may come into.
Go board is a good board for a economical price
You should always use a mask as that dust leaves a nasty cough.
That drain grate should be in not on. On makes it so you break the grout or caulk seal when removing the grate.
Was that perimeter of floor level after installing.
The perimeter can't be level all the way around unless the drain is exactly on the center.
As long as your slope is consistent with the 1/4 inch per foot guidelines it’s fine.
The perimeter levelness has no impact on drainage, as long as you have the 1/4" per foot slope in the pan you're good. Speak with the designer on the tile design and how you would need to adjust the pattern, if necessary.
I remodeled my guest bath last year and did the tub walls in GoBoard. I fell in love with the product. Now I am doing the master bath and decided to go with the GoBoard Wedges and point drain. My only complaint is that I am not in love with the aesthetics of drain. I would like to use the Signature Hardware Cohen 4" Square Tile-In Shower Drain - Less Flange Model:406494 or maybe even the 6". Would these be compatible?
The radial fins in our drain body (flange) are designed to accommodate most 2” drain hole cover assemblies - even threaded
If it has only one pitch how’s it going to drain without a linear drain on the low side? Your drain is nearly in the middle, what am I missing?
For linears drains, yes you would use the wedges in that way. However, for point drains you cut four wedges at 45° from the corners of the clamping collar on the drain base, then install wedges so that all the low ends of the wedges towards the drain. Think of it as an envelope cut style. Page 2 of our brochure shows you some possible configurations: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/insulation-systems/products/goboard/showerpankit/goboardshowerkit/gb-502-jm-goboard-shower-pan-en09152021.pdf
As a contractor I view the showers the same as exterior of a house. You don't side the house then put the roof on because each thing should lap from bottom up. Now that said I have forever poured rubber pans and used wedi and goboard on the walls. With that I have always had rubber up the wall 6 inches. I do want to try the tapered panels and ordered the kit. I do plan to have the pan down first then the walls. Is there actually a life or use life of the caulk? Curious if anyone has made a shower then tore it out like some years later to see what was happening. In this install I am not liking the half inch subfloor should be minimum 3/4" becuase of flex over years of use most often tile that has failed is over improper subfloor support....
Lastly if the floor tile is set at a 45 pattern I would think the pieces cut might have to be altered which I have never had to deal with on poured bases. This should be interesting or is tape best used on the angled joints I would think to bridge any grout line stacking on the pan seam. I might try this shower pan system but I always use liner drains so not sure I can get the depth I need in order to set a liner drain... will find out on this next shower.
Hi Marshal! Thank you for your comments. Pan first requires angle wall board cuts for offset and rectangular pans. Cutting ½” rabbet in wedges would be recommended for wedges first. Rabbet on thicker side, that is. Better to do walls first. Shingling effect doesn’t apply when using 1/8” gaps and sealant. Have you ever seen the fish tank our team built using GoBoard? Check out Tile Backer Board playlist on our TH-cam channel. You could optionally use GoBoard Seam Fabric for reinforcement - or an equivalent.
Marshall how did it go with the linear drain? And how did your source the wedge panels without purchasing the whole drain kit???
How would Heavy Glass shower doors be secured to the Curb? Seems screws would not hold very well in Foam.
The preferred method is to secure the door to the wall. Another installation method includes cutting channels for setting wooden dowels into and through the foam, for more secure fastening of door hardware. Then use GoBoard Pro Sealant to well waterproof the dowels and foam penetrations. Door track can also be adhered to the curb using GoBoard Pro Sealant.
Does the GoBoard wall sheets go all the way down to the floor? If using a traditional pre-slope, liner, and sloped pan, should the GoBoard go all the way to a concrete floor also? This seems needlessly dependant upon the aquadefense or redgard. I am building my GoBoard shower this weekend. I started the concrete curb tonight and planned to build the pan pre-slope tomorrow and final pan the next day -- but perhaps with GoBoard I can put the walls up first? But again, this seems needlessly risky.
GoBoard is installed on walls first, all the way to the floor.
thorough video, interested to try this out. One question...when you applied the thinset to the decking, is it recommended to dampen the decking first with sponge/water, so that your modified thinset doesn't cure too quickly? I've seen it on many vids, just wasn't sure if that is required here with the wedge system.
There's no requirement to do that, for GoBoard Wedge.
Planning on ditching my plastic shower pan, will I need to have a wooden sub floor added before building up or is there another method?
Either a wood subfloor (5.8" thick plywood or 3/4" OSB), or a flat cement slab.
So if i have a concrete pan that has the type of flange installed with a adjustable neck for a mortar pan ill have to bust the slab arpund it and re do it all. No adapter?
You shouldn't need an adapter. Here's our drain installation for cement slab instructions: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/insulation-systems/products/goboard/goboardaccessories/goboardpointdrain/gb-510-jm-goboard-point-drain-installation-cement-slab.pdf
If I’m using Go Board for the shower walls with a preformed shower pan should I install the go board and butt the pan up to it or install the shower pan first butted tot he studs then install go board leaving 1/8th in gap and sealing with Go Board sealer?
Install the pan first. It would be a similar installation method to a tub surround.
Im wondering why the bigger youtube tilers have never covered this system. Then again they don’t do Wedi either.
Which bigger youtube tilers are you referring to?
Will this wedge shower board support wheel chair weight for elderly shower accces. 300 lbs plus, any tests done for this loading and fail point
For tile larger than 6-inch x 6-inch tile dimensions, we're rated for light commercial applications.
Did I miss something, where is the slope of the shower base coming from? I heard him say at the beginning that the floor was perfectly level.
The Wedges are pre-sloped.
Can I coat the whole surface of GoBoard with RED GUARD to help seal even further?
It's not necessary.
Redguard should NEVER be used in a shower! With redguard, you have to use a modified thinset which is modified with latex additive which is organic and is a food source for mold! People who use redguard in their showers WILL HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MOLD GROWTH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! UNMODIFIED THINSET ONLY IN A SHOWER!!!!!
@@michaelhorn9114 you are SO wrong....Check ANSI (facepalm)
I agree with Joseph....Michael is soooo wrong 😑
@@michaelhorn9114 As a professional bathroom remodeling contractor, I use redguard on every shower. I've been using it for over 15 years. There is no mold growth issue. Once modified thinset dries, it doesn't 'uncure' and become a food source. You really don't know what you're talking about, sorry.
If you're using a traditional mortar bed, should go board be placed within or above the mortar bed?
Hi Tom, thank you for your question. Unlike many other tile backer boards, GoBoard will not deteriorate when placed within the mortar bed.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard THIS was the question and answer I was looking for!!! Great news!
First thing that hit me was having to buy 2 curbs to do a standard 60” shower. Why can’t the company just make a 60” or little longer curb? It means less seams and less chance fir water seepage.
There shouldn't be any seepage when waterproofing using our sealant. 60" is a size that's under consideration by our product development team.
Can this be installed on a concrete slab (basement). Originally our plumber was going to rough in for a prefab shower base, but I’d rather do all tile if I can. If it is doable, how would he rough in the drain? Still 1 5/8 below concrete surface? Thanks in advance for your guidance.
You can install this on a concrete slab, in a basement. Assuming there is no existing drain in your basement currently, you would be best to discuss your options with your plumber.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard I would like to use this system in my bathroom ( already used GoBoard around tub in the main bathroom and I love the product ) but I also have concrete floor and I am pretty sure that the drain is not PVC or ABS, but metal ( now I have an old style fiberglass prefabricated pan ). Would this drain be adaptable to it? How would you affix it to the subfloor ( obviously cannot use the 4 screws like in the demonstration video )? Also, how many panels come in the kit? Enough to build a 2.5'x5" shower pan?
Do you have Distributor in Manitoba? I would like to try your showerbase. And do you have tileable grates?
No tileable grates yet, but we're working on some things including distribution in Manitoba.
So if I'm using 1/2" Goboard on the outside of a bathtub for the floor, do I still have to mortar it to the plywood then screw? Or can I just screw it down dry? Then I have to leave an 1/8th inch gap all around for the walls & in front of the tub and the one seam I have and then fill all those gaps with the sealant? Then I can tile?
Just fasten the the 1/2" GoBoard on the outside of the tub. Fill the gaps with sealant. Wait for the sealant to skin over - and then you're ready to tile.
What about the slope? Did I miss something?
Pieces pre sloped
Installation the same on a concrete sub floor?
Here's a guide: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/insulation-systems/products/goboard/goboardaccessories/goboardpointdrain/gb-510-jm-goboard-point-drain-installation-cement-slab.pdf
is there a 60 inch wedge if my drain is all the way near the wall ?
Currently we produce only 48" x 48" Wedges
Why did you cut the board from the bottom? Don’t you need the height for better runoff?
1/4" per foot slope to the drain is standard and is achieved no matter which side of the GoBoard Wedge is cut off.
cant find a shower seal anywhere, will pob have to use a competitors mixing valve seal and hope they are compatible.
The mixing valve seal comes with drain kit.
The mixing valve seal is now also available separately.
I read that the shower drain line needs to be at LEAST 1 5/8 inches below the top of the subfloor. What do you do if it is 2 1/2 inches below the top of the subfloor. Nowhere on the spec sheet does it state the length of the drain body or what to do if your pipe is shorter than the 1 5/8 inches.
Not sure we're understanding your question. Could you cite the information you read regarding the 1 5/8"? Are you referring to the plumbing waste pipe? Or the length of the drain body? Here's the cut sheet for the GoBoard Point Drain: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/goboard-accessories/GB-503-GoBoard-Point-Drain-Cut-Sheet.pdf
Next is 24 hours leak test. This passes that w/o any other liner?
Yes, it will pass a 24 hour flood test.
What about the slope. Did you do that with the thin set?
Use a self leveler (SLU). You want the subfloor to be level before installing the wedges using thinset.
Do you have to put silicone caulking in the corners after tiling?
Hello, the TCNA recommends using caulking in the corners and changes of plane, but matching grout color could be an issue. Here is an article on the topic offered by JLC: www.jlconline.com/how-to/interiors/caulk-or-grout-in-shower-corners_o
Thanks.
I think if the wall is completely 100% covered with a membrane like Kerdi and wrapped through each corner, then there would be no need for caulking.
The membrane ‘gives’ so much that there is no tension buildup in the tile, even in the corners. However, I am sure kerdi or similar membrane requires more labor and cost. @@johnsmanvillegoboard
@@jamespaddler JM has their own membrane and liquid flash & corners - there is a part 2 of this video extension.
hello, is this approved in South florida by FBC 2017? here we use concrete slabs instead of wood sub-floors, sounds like a great option but i am worry about applications in condominium apartments, future leaks if the sealant fails, etc.
Frank, you can use GoBoard on concrete slabs. Here is a concrete slab basement shower we did: bit.ly/GoBoard-Diamond-Shower-Pan
I am in Central Florida and have combination of raised and concrete slab. Curious to know too.
How does the drain attach to a concrete subfloor?
Hello! Here is a link to our instruction guide for cement slab: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/insulation-systems/products/goboard/goboardaccessories/goboardpointdrain/gb-510-jm-goboard-point-drain-installation-cement-slab.pdf
I feel like this could fail for sure since it’s just caulk joints so why couldn’t you just add the go board (membrane) on top of this to make sure that no issues will happen at all.
As long as you follow manufacturer installation instructions, you shouldn't have any issues.
Do you not have to put a membrane over the seald areas?
Not necessary.
A 2nd level of protection is recommended but "not necessary" as their YT agent states. They make and offer the additional fabric & liquid membranes and corners. Def use them to provide extra strength & waterproofing. Don't rely on just letting liquid sealant hold up to constant moisture wicking below grout.
CAN I USE A SCHLUTER SHOWER PAN WITH GO BOARD ON THE WALLS ? IF SO, DO I JUST USE KERDI BAND TO ADJOIN ? OR WHAT ?
Our recommended installation methods are GoBoard pan using GoBoard Wedges, or a mud pan.
I think so, Kerdi band in all the corners for the win.
does goboard provide lifetime warranty on the kit?
10 year
Many KZN municipalities are disfunctional and most of them are under IFP. So we will see.
Thanks for your comment!
With the way the wedge pan was cut, does that create a level perimeter?
We recommend tiling the shower walls first, to help hide the angle cuts sometimes required near the shower pan in rectangular, and offset drain location situations.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard I believe a level perimeter could be achieved if you keep all the perimeter the same thickness and have your cut go from wall corner to drain corner instead of someone within the middle of the wall. I've used your system before, just never with an offset drain.
with that pan layout the perimeter wont be all level?
We recommend tiling the shower walls first, to help hide the angle cuts sometimes required near the shower pan in rectangular, and offset drain location situations.
Do the wedges have a minimum tile size requirement?
Anything under 2" is not recommended.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard interesting,
Why would it be a problem let’s say if I go with 1 inch
Im in Atlanta cant find anyplace to buy
Here's a link to our partner locator. You can search for a source of supply using your zip code: www.jm.com/en/insulation-locator/
I think I would go with the Kerdi pre-pitched shower floor system myself. I'd also use Mapei Aqua Defense over Red Guard because it doesn't have an odor like the Red Guard has. The only draw back is that Kerdi has a lifetime warranty using only if you use the Schlueter All Set mortar, and only 25 years if you use a modified LFT mortar. The All Set mortar is a bit costly and it turns people away from using it. Do you have linear drain systems for shower floors also that work with Go Board?
The benefit of using GoBoard Wedges is that you can accommodate more shower sizes and there's no need to wait for a specially sized pan. Also, you don't need to move the plumbing. Simply customize on-site. With the GoBoard system, you don't need to use a liquid membrane. Red Guard or an equivalent is unnecessary. The board is already waterproof, and you only need to seal the joints using GoBoard Pro Sealant or a manufacturer's approved alternative.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard also ideal for envelope tile floor installs
Also GoBoard Wedges are denser then Kerdi board foam pans. Meaning less chance of dents while working on it
I stay away from their products. NTCA doesnt approve of their method.
Modified or non modified thinset? Water test needed? Can you use 8 + 9 as a precation?
Use either Modified or non-modified. Water test depending on the building inspector - always good to test anyway. Not sure what you mean on your last question? Precaution? GoBoard is inherently waterproof. Just use GoBoard Pro Sealant in the 1/8" gaps between boards.
Thanks for your question. =)
That drill looks like something you won as a door prize at a Tupperware party.
Neat! Never knew they give out drills at Tupperware parties!
@@johnsmanvillegoboard That is spotlighting how improbable that drill is and sounds. It sounded like something that was bought from Ronco or Harbor Freight.
@@thyslop1737 Not really certain what the drill has to do with anything? *confused* We'll run it past the marketing department to see if we can start using the tagline: "GoBoard Fasteners are designed so well that you can even use a Tupperware party door prize drill to install them."
@@johnsmanvillegoboard LOL
@@johnsmanvillegoboard LOL
Where can I find a retail price list on the whole GoBoard product line?
Patrick, you would need to check with your local retailer for pricing.
Who carry’s it? Home Depot? Lowes?
Does the point drain work with ABS? THANKS
Yes, use a transition cement/glue.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard Thanks! Already bought the kit!
Trowel size for setting the pan?
Quarter inch
Can I join Go Board to cement board ?
As in the transition from the shower area to the wall of the room? Yes.
Where can you purchase these Shower systems? I looked for a retailer and the only thing that came up close was Lowes and all they have is the board?
Hi Nathan, thanks for your comment. Lowes currently only carries our 1/2" 3x5 boards. Where are you located? Maybe we can find another supplier.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard
Sacramento CA
@@nathanoltmanns6160 Cortopassi Tile & Stone carries our entire line except for our thick boards. You can call them direct at (916) 361-8191
Awesome thank you!
@@johnsmanvillegoboard Is there a place in Elk Grove, Lodi or Stockton CA that carries your products?
How soon can you flood test.
As soon as the sealant skins over.
In most cases in 1 hour
Where can I buy just the wedge and curb?
Ask your current supplier to bring it in, or if you can special order. Both are available as sold separately.
Josh in the Detroit area the 48 in wedge panels are also most impossible to locate with buying the whole kit and the one shop that had them wants $80 a pop for each panel
Where can i buy this in Toronto Ontario, Canada?
Thank you for your question! Try Home Hardware
When will this kit be available?
n0rcal, thank you for your question. The kit is available now. You can find distributors here in our partner locator. Just search by location: www.jm.com/en/contact/partner-locator/
This kit is available now.
Is go board strong enough for a curb?
Yes, it's strong enough for a curb.
strong??? curbs serve to keep water in not to use as a step. wood frame or Durarock curb will do. Also if planned correctly, you can go seamless for a updated cleaner design...just saying
@@robgarcia1631 I mean you still gonna step on a curb regardless
@@ubacow7109 Why, just change your habit of going in and out of the shower. I never did and never will.
Would be nice if you supply some links to videos of "professionals" who have used this product in their projects. The leak factor makes this type of install high risk for the DIYer, so more examples the better.
It's not uncommon for a DIYer to consider hiring a tile contractor. GoBoard Shower Pan Kit is very simple to install. It's easier than the tiling part! Like and subscribe to keep watching our TH-cam channel, or you can follow us on our Instagram channel. We share IG Stories of professional contractors that tag us in their work.
Do you have an idea on how long a proper install will last using just the sealant as water proofing as shown in the video? Also, can red guard be added over seams that were sealed with the polymer sealant as a redundant added water proofing protection for piece of mind? Thanks.
Also, where can I buy this kit near Indianapolis Indiana? I’ll try one this week. Thanks.
@@davidbaker1405 Sorry, I don't know. My project got put on hold. Right now I'm leaning toward Laticrete products.
If you think beforehand that it's going to leak, it will, trust me, Law of Attraction!
So, as a DIY guy that’s looking to redo the shower in my master bathroom it would be nice to know what you put under the floor on top of the plywood. I assume it’s thin set, but you know what happens when you assume! I is a college gradumate (spelling intentional) and a licensed surveyor and former helicopter pilot, so I like to think I’m as smart as the average bear, yet I’m still not sure what you used.
Is this available in Phoenix?
Thanks
My friend who is a general contractor and uses this system all the time and loves it says to use mapei brand Keraflex plus and then set your pieces and walk around to set it in place. Also he goes the extra mile to use aqua defense and a water membrane tape on all joints and seams to make sure it’s absolutely water tight! We are installing this system now! Good luck!
Hi Glen, try Dearborn Supply or Monterrey Tile.
You would use a modified thinset for pourous subfloors (unsealed wood, etc.) and a non-modified thinset if there is a non-porous subfloor (or a subfloor with a waterproof coating on it). Many modified thinsets require the moisture to exit for the thinset to cure, so if the thinset is sandwiched between two non-porous materials it cannot cure. Non-modifed thinsets are identified by having ANSI A118.1 written on the bag. Modified thinsets include ANSI A118.4, ANSI A118.11, and ANSI A118.15.
To instill confidence, this company should find a homeowner who’s bathroom renovation years ago used this product, and demo it to prove it worked.
Thanks for the idea!
Terrible quality control. My pan had huge voids In it…. Not sure if I’ll buy again. Probably going back to WEDI or Schluter
How long does the goboard adhesive keep its waterproof property? Manufacture warranty? Thanks
GoBoard Pro Sealant is permanently elastic. You can download the warranty certificate here: www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/goboard-warranty/10-Yr-Limited-Warranty-for-GoBoard.pdf
Why leave 1/8 gaps? Seems too big
Rumor has it the sealant needs to get inside the edges to seal and bond from what I've gathered. I've used nothing but kerdi, but I'm using this on my next job because it's cheaper (for the customer) so i hope i learn a lot today.
Read up a little bit on ASTM C719. 1/8" gaps allow the sealant to get inside - between the boards - for optimal performance in consideration of expansion and contraction.
me personally I do goboards on walls and schluter pans ans drains
holy crap, that stuff better be cheap. that was a lot of wasted material making a shower pan
GoBoard installers also utilize the "waste" as support material under their tile when cutting it, and because GoBoard is structural - they also fabricate custom benches, niches, and shelves.
where's the waterproof liner membrane? or secondary waterproofing. in total this huge amount of moving parts put together from general /substandard materials, leave too many opportunities for leakage over a short amount of time. A well thought-out leakproof system ensures worry-free functionality for decades to come
GoBoard Shower pan kit, as listed in our PMG-1439 product certifications, is compliant with all applicable standards for this product type; ANSI, ICC-ES, IAPMO, and ASME. We highlighted the compliance statement in the report for you: jm.showpad.com/share/U8SOHjow5nFQ5d5arVojg
If you think beforehand that it is too complex and is going to leak, it will, trust me, Law of Attraction!
Before you can tile, you need to fill the pan up with water for 24 hours
Thanks for your comment!
Surprising how bad this video is considering it's the product of a huge company.
Hi J Mahoney, how could we help and make this video better for our viewers?
@@johnsmanvillegoboard Sound quality, better framing of the shots, particularly the close ups.. Having said that, it looks like a great product. I wonder about its shear strength to resist inevitable framing movement. Watch some 'This Old House" for an excellent production style. ( I'm a Professional Cameraman, I'm picky, sorry.) I'm also a DIYer. with 7 rental units. I will say, I don't' like most of the super slick big company videos. too slick. I'm considering a small bathroom on my 3rd floor. Ive done a lot of stuff, including install 2 steam boilers by myself. Tile, for some reason scares the heck out of me.
Tile might scare the heck out of you, but I think our camera and sound people were probably scared too! We'll endeavor to do better and find the balance between too slick and not slick enough. We sort of tested some changes in planes using GoBoard as wallboard in an RV and the seams held up. No cracking. Are any of your rentals road-worthy? ;-)
Bet you didn't bet on actually getting a response lol
The tcna handbook says no fasteners lower than 3” below the finished height of the curb. How do you fasten the bottom of the goboard? Can you glue it to the bottom of the studs and to the sill plate?
That's with an old school "water in, water out" system. You fasten it to bottom of wall then waterproof screw heads.
k0harmer thank you!
Glad your question was answered. =)
Is it OK if the drain is not in the center of the shower?
The Wedges accommodate any drain location. No need to move the plumbing.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard But the kit comes with how many wedges in case the drain is offset like the one you demonstrated in the video? How many wedges did you need for that particular shower?
WOW.. CANT SEE THAT LASTING MORE THAN A FEW YEARS AT MOST...
It's rigid high density foam! It will probably outlast this comment on TH-cam, champ! 💙
Doesn't look worth $450, though.
Thanks for the feedback!
Doesn’t look secure and reliable. I would lose sleep worrying.
If you ever get a chance, build a small box container out of scrap GoBoard using GoBoard pro sealant and conduct a flood test experiment by filling it with water.
Don't like it. Rather use a vinyl liner
Hi John, thanks for your feedback. What is it about a vinyl liner that makes you prefer it?
@@johnsmanvillegoboard the plumber installs it. Lol
@@johnsmanvillegoboard in all seriousness it looks like a good system
No way in hell would I trust a pan with all these joints. That caulk will crack and this will leak.
If you think it will, it surely will, Law of Attraction, you get what you focus your attention on. Look at all videos and read all materials. GoBoard has been long enough on the market, if it leaked, they would be gone years ago already.
It's hybrid polymer adhesive/sealant. It's permanently elastic. Test it out, by gluing together a couple of board scraps.
lots of places to leak into subfloor...
I am sorry to say this, but as a remodeling contractor I simply don't trust this system. All sealants break down over time. In this video, there are so many areas joined together and just one little pinhole will result in so much damage. I'll stick to doing a traditional mud pan instead. I'd much rather put money in my pocket for the building of a properly built mud shower pan than into buying an overpriced system. Just my opinion.
Thanks for your feedback, Leslie.
Yeah that's why I would use a liquid membrane over everything. You do 3 coats should be about the thickness of a credit card. Then it's definitely not leaking.
Today’s silene based sealants are not like the old sealants. They are moisture curing and very resilient. If done properly, this install will equal any traditional method. Why paint over a waterproof board? You could paint over the seems for extra peace of mind I suppose. These water proof board systems are taking over for good reason. Also, using thin set alone to seal drains is not a good long term strategy. If you do that, just be sure to seal all seams with a silene based sealant of some sort. Many companies make them including Schluter, Laticrete, and RSS. I do like the mud bed system and still slope my own. I paint over that and then cover with a waterproof membrane. Go Board should consider making their 3x5 wall boards interlocking for better water proofing. But all in all a good system. And yes, I have used go board wall material and sealant but never their flooring material.
"As a remodeling contractor " means literally nothing. You have to come with better receipts to comment to make it worth talking. It's an amazing system
@@BryanScott-x7qI’m a ICC building inspector and retired contractor. You have to go with the installation instructions for the product being installed UL listed.
Music was super annoying, I would never use a shower pan that was cut in 4 sections...no way that isn't going to fail! Poorly made video from the company selling the product.
CheriW, I can sense that you feel very strongly about a list of things. Let’s start with the installation method of our pan. Here’s a link to our ICC-ES product certification. Highlighted are some key points to consider when deciding on our pan system. This document lists all of the evidence we submit in the form of industry standards testing results. You can trust the sealant. jm.showpad.com/share/k250zEQwlnCg42ls9PIMr
CheriW, regarding the super annoying music; it’s probably a track cut by one of the creative director’s kids who is in a garage band. Even though we had the Foo lined up for this gig, we couldn’t break a kid’s heart.
Try it out before open your mouth.
@@eshoo8000 Good grief, I could not AGREE MORE!!! 😎
@@johnsmanvillegoboard An admirable reply, hats off to you! 🤩
Just another joke for the tile industry. Use a liner and mud like a true tile setter.
Mud is great! A couple of advantages of foam that are often overlooked is the reduction of weight on the subfloor, and moisture control. GoBoard is fungal and mold resistant. And with our wedge, the slope is consistent.
@@johnsmanvillegoboard doesn’t compare to a mud pan. It’s a substitute for craftsmanship.
Been floating since 1991 at 11 year's old... I will never play with that after using this product. Adapt and overcome.... Gotta keep up with the times before you get outdated as some of my stubborn mentors.
If that were true we'd still be getting to our jobs on a horse. 😁
This product looks like complete cheap shit.
Based on what?
When you cut the wedges to different widths and lenghts, is it the same height abutting the walls and curb?
Only if the shower pan area is perfectly square and the drain is exactly in the middle of area. For rectangular shower pan areas and / or offset drain locations, the wedge height against the walls and curb can vary depending on the situation. It's recommended to tile the walls first so the shower pan tiles hide the wall tiles that need to be cut to match the wedge slope.
@@shawnareneecolorado I thought so. Looks like a fail.
k0harmer I suppose it ultimately depends on the skill and creativity of the tile setter. I’ve seen it done perfectly well on a diamond shaped pan. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@shawnareneecolorado If the different wedges are at different levels then it wouldn't work for me. I love and use GoBoard but I'll pass on the wedges.
k0harmer Its all good! Glad you love GoBoard! Great question too!