I like how there's no need for washers with the screws, no waterproofing band required or thinset for the banding (Looking at you Schluter). I used GoBoard on my first shower DIY renovation. There are large head backboard screws, essentially the same, that are much cheaper than their screws and PL300 foamboard sealant caulking works perfectly for a lot less. I like to put a dab of sealant over the screw heads as well.
GOBOARD TIP. Do a little ring around the shower valve hole to prevent water rolling inward. The bead will make any water roll around the circle to the pan.
After 25 years of using Hardie, I switched to go board today. Must say it's very easy to work with. It is a bit irritating to the skin, but ill take the tradeoff of ease of cutting and its feather light in the 4x8 sheets
My only qualms with goboard is they need a 1 piece shower pan option for offset and centered drains. Im not a fan of the cut wedges style right now. For tub surrounds..I use this every time and its a dream to work with. I take a router with rabbeting bit and rabbet out the backside of the board so it can over lap the shower flange and cover the screws. Put a nice bead on that and leave 1/4inch between the board and the shower pan ( where it changes planes) and then the screws are covered and the board gives the tile a little more area to grab. Love the product.
On Monday I finally start with my first GoBoard project. All my experience aside, thanks to you I am very confident in outcome of my project. Wish I had ability/channel to share it with you. What do you think Steve about applying mesh tape and filling with thin-set along where board meets the tub vs stuffing with endless sealant?
This is really excellent content. Very interested in this project for myself and I love to learn as many new skills and techniques as I can. Definitely considering your course. Very fair price for the content. If it saves me one headache it's worth it.
I have been doing this for the past nine months . But never did a shower base .I did the compressed foam floor and then tile . Now I have to finish 2 baths in my house but will use shower bases .
According to the John Mansville website a vapor barrier is not needed when using GoBoard "unless" it is specifically required by the state code in your area.
Thank you so much. Installing in a brand new bathroom - shower pan and go board. I've tiled before but have never done wavy tile (this is subway), any recommendations to have square corners with this tile? Great content.
It usually just gets some thinset as you tile. No need to waterproof that joint because the drywall is obviously not waterproof. You do want to make sure to add a screw to each stud in the old drywall, because there is no telling how far away the existing screws were from your cut line
I'm working on a 54" shower (mobile home), looking for Right Drained 54x32 pan which I'm trying to locate. I have demo'd to the studs and thinking of buying your 3 day course. I want to do a tile job...my first and want to do it right. Your shower course may be what I need. Will I be able to keep it, download it or otherwise have access to it for eternity? I'm not sure when I will get to certain things. Tks Greg Augusta, GA
Might be a rookie question.. but: Can you use this board with a prefloat + pan liner and mud float system? How high/low can the board go, or should it be measured in after the pan liner?
Yes you can. Watch the videos of Wedi or Kerdi Board being used with an old fashioned mud pan. Same process. You could bury the board in the mud, but I like to always do mine after the whole pan is mudded in place. It has less kick-out from the lower liner folds of the pan liner.
Do I have to tear it all out and redo it if I set a majority of the screws deeper than the face of the board? Or can I just seal the holes effectively?
They're fine. If you haven't tiled, you can just add a new (flush) screw next to the old countersunk one and seal them both. If you've already tiled, still probably fine, just watch for grout cracks or loose whole-wall-panels of tile. The sealant is so flexible that the boards usually stay waterproof even if it moves so much as to crack the grout.
I’ve done it and it works. 3years now and no issues. It’s a first floor bathroom with an open ceiling in the basement so I’ve been able to keep an eye on it . I tied the go board to the shluter shower pan with the go board sealant and then used the kerdi band with shluter all set to bond the kerdi band to the go board and the Shluter foam pan. I figured it’s just like using Kerdi board only way cheaper . Getting ready to do another shower this week. The only thing I’m gonna change is instead of using Shluter all set to bond the Kerdi band, I’m gonna use Laticrete multi max light. And I may also coat the go board vertical seems with mesh tape and multimax light just because I’m anal. Haa.
I use Roxul R15 on outside walls in a bathroom, and know not to put plastic over it as it has to breath and wick. I had a building inspector tell me to install plastic over it during a rough inspection but I did not... manufacturer doesn't recommend it. Inspectors need to get up to speed on newer applications and best practices for walls.
Failed inspections are the norm here in our cold climates with no Vapour barrier unless you’ve done spray foam… They even have a air infiltration inspections for the VB before drywall can be done.
Heads up. If I follow the link to the 3 day shower course at the very bottom instead of showing the price like other courses is shows "true". I am a programmer, glad it is not "false". lol programming jokes.
Had to stop the video to bust your chops. You bought an expensive caulk gun to speed up installation but you don’t feel the need to get a hole saw kit to cut out the valve area!? Other then that I’m resuming the video 👍👍
$27.50 per sheet of Goboard? $137.50 to wall that shower! That is ridiculous. Are they using gold plating for the waterproofing? Price gouging at its best.
exactly...i posted a comment above your customer is paying 5x more minimum just on material. these companies are putting their hands in installers pocket if anything. no room to bid when everything is wayyyy over priced lol
@@JT-rc7vx Well considering ive done this for 12 years installing, sellling jobs and getting materials for jobs it is dramatically cheaper buying aquadefense, ($150 for a 3.5 gal floor n decor) and a $12 role of seam tape that will last probably a good 8 showers this size. Add in cement board so $60 and then durok screws $32... if u did 8 of those showers with that fibre board you spend $2k with their fasteners and seem tape and board. Now lets compare durok, aqua defense, fasteners and seem tape for a total of 8 showers your just buying durok and probably one more case of screws at that point so $450 in durok lets say.. all in all its 1/4th the cost. There is your quick rough youtube maths off the top of my head buddy. For this one shower you can buy a 1 gal for $70, a small case of screws and durok for $75 so its a little cheaper. Odds are these guys are not in business to do one shower lol.
If you can get your customer to spend 5x the amount of regular cementboard then sure, its great for an installer. not practical on the pocket book though.
By the time you seem tape your joints and use two coats of topical waterproof over your cement board, your labor and material cost make it comparable and extend your install time. I think most customers would be happy to spend a little more on the product and have the job move along faster.
I'm a pro and I've done the math on every system out there. This is the very cheapest fully waterproofed system, including all labor & material charges. You just aren't adding up the labor & material costs properly for multiple coats of surface waterproofing. Your customer will spend less if you price fairly
I wonder if there is a battery powered chink gun...now that would be very nice! All of us who have pumped hundreds of tubes of caulk dream of the auto caulk gun...🎉
I like how there's no need for washers with the screws, no waterproofing band required or thinset for the banding (Looking at you Schluter). I used GoBoard on my first shower DIY renovation. There are large head backboard screws, essentially the same, that are much cheaper than their screws and PL300 foamboard sealant caulking works perfectly for a lot less. I like to put a dab of sealant over the screw heads as well.
GOBOARD TIP. Do a little ring around the shower valve hole to prevent water rolling inward. The bead will make any water roll around the circle to the pan.
What ive done was score the bottom in the middle of the foam and that out what needs to be taken out to put the foam board flush to the tub
After 25 years of using Hardie, I switched to go board today. Must say it's very easy to work with. It is a bit irritating to the skin, but ill take the tradeoff of ease of cutting and its feather light in the 4x8 sheets
My only qualms with goboard is they need a 1 piece shower pan option for offset and centered drains. Im not a fan of the cut wedges style right now. For tub surrounds..I use this every time and its a dream to work with. I take a router with rabbeting bit and rabbet out the backside of the board so it can over lap the shower flange and cover the screws. Put a nice bead on that and leave 1/4inch between the board and the shower pan ( where it changes planes) and then the screws are covered and the board gives the tile a little more area to grab. Love the product.
On Monday I finally start with my first GoBoard project. All my experience aside, thanks to you I am very confident in outcome of my project. Wish I had ability/channel to share it with you. What do you think Steve about applying mesh tape and filling with thin-set along where board meets the tub vs stuffing with endless sealant?
On all seams and corners use the pink or red tape with standard tile mud .this will waterproof all the seams.
It’s a bit overkill to add mesh. But obviously add strength. I think it would be more trouble than it’s worth personally. Good luck 👍 with project
Nope, different system
Could you notch the bottom the the GOBOARD to go over the flange of the pan?
This is really excellent content. Very interested in this project for myself and I love to learn as many new skills and techniques as I can. Definitely considering your course. Very fair price for the content. If it saves me one headache it's worth it.
I have been doing this for the past nine months .
But never did a shower base .I did the compressed foam floor and then tile .
Now I have to finish 2 baths in my house but will use shower bases .
Looks great!
Question: do you need a vapor barrier under to go-board if the large shower wall is an exterior wall?
According to the John Mansville website a vapor barrier is not needed when using GoBoard "unless" it is specifically required by the state code in your area.
Got to waterproof the screws too
Thank you so much. Installing in a brand new bathroom - shower pan and go board. I've tiled before but have never done wavy tile (this is subway), any recommendations to have square corners with this tile? Great content.
Just what i was looking for. A training course!!!!!! I used to work for a tile company many years ago and i regret leaving that industry. 😢😢
Go board is great. I use it all the time.
Awesome video! Is there any time you would suggest not using GoBoard?
How do you seal seam to the drywall above? Do you use just sealant? Or do you use tape?
It usually just gets some thinset as you tile. No need to waterproof that joint because the drywall is obviously not waterproof. You do want to make sure to add a screw to each stud in the old drywall, because there is no telling how far away the existing screws were from your cut line
Go Board is great to work with and priced very competitively. Only problem is makes my skin itch from the fiberglass.
So priced the same as Wedi, Hydra, Kerdi and Prova. I was curious.
Gloves and long sleeves
Makes my skin break out in a rash.. but the product is really good.. just wear gloves, sleeves and a mask !’
@@BZ1340 No, priced A LOT less than those. 2/3 to 1/3 the price of the ones you mentioned. You pay the difference in itchy skin
I thought that was just me 😂
Can you glue alcove sheet panels to the go board
What type of caulk/sealant are you using on the joints?
Any thoughts/experience using densshield backer boards
You sir are amazing. Thanks for this very detailed tutorial.
What sealant do you like using?
Can I use RAM board? It is water proof. What about the board used on linoleum? Both are cheap.
Do you use modified thinset when setting the tiles?
No need for a waterproofing membrane like Red-Guard on this?
Nope, it’s foam and the sealant application waterproofs everything
That makes it a winner. Thanks - will use it on my next bathroom remodel
Wat tinset is good to used in this material goboard ? Thanks
I'm working on a 54" shower (mobile home), looking for Right Drained 54x32 pan which I'm trying to locate. I have demo'd to the studs and thinking of buying your 3 day course. I want to do a tile job...my first and want to do it right. Your shower course may be what I need. Will I be able to keep it, download it or otherwise have access to it for eternity? I'm not sure when I will get to certain things. Tks Greg Augusta, GA
Do you have problems installing the marble on top of the GoBoard?
Might be a rookie question.. but:
Can you use this board with a prefloat + pan liner and mud float system?
How high/low can the board go, or should it be measured in after the pan liner?
Yes you can. Watch the videos of Wedi or Kerdi Board being used with an old fashioned mud pan. Same process. You could bury the board in the mud, but I like to always do mine after the whole pan is mudded in place. It has less kick-out from the lower liner folds of the pan liner.
id rather work with that sealant than kerdi membrane and messy thinset
I cant find goboard anywhere in my region. The nearest home depot or lowes is 3.5 hours drive.
Do I have to tear it all out and redo it if I set a majority of the screws deeper than the face of the board? Or can I just seal the holes effectively?
They're fine. If you haven't tiled, you can just add a new (flush) screw next to the old countersunk one and seal them both. If you've already tiled, still probably fine, just watch for grout cracks or loose whole-wall-panels of tile. The sealant is so flexible that the boards usually stay waterproof even if it moves so much as to crack the grout.
Thank you ❤❤
What if my go board sits flush with my left and back but not right of the stud?? How do I get around that?!
Why do a lot of installers use a plastic barrier behind the wall board? And why not?
Can you combine systems. Kerdi shower pan with go board walls?
Schluter will say no, Johns Manville will say yes 😂
I’ve done it and it works. 3years now and no issues. It’s a first floor bathroom with an open ceiling in the basement so I’ve been able to keep an eye on it . I tied the go board to the shluter shower pan with the go board sealant and then used the kerdi band with shluter all set to bond the kerdi band to the go board and the Shluter foam pan. I figured it’s just like using Kerdi board only way cheaper . Getting ready to do another shower this week. The only thing I’m gonna change is instead of using Shluter all set to bond the Kerdi band, I’m gonna use Laticrete multi max light. And I may also coat the go board vertical seems with mesh tape and multimax light just because I’m anal. Haa.
What is your recommenation to transition from the GoBoard to drywall?
Unfortunately I can't find any go board in my area, does anyone ship it?
Lowe's. At least here in Michigan.
Lowes in Colorado
where does one purchase goboard?
Amazon, tile shop, other tile distributors
Lowe’s has it usually. Around here anyways, north east
Great
I hope your leaving that 1/8 gap in those corners. That sealant needs to get in there for waterproofing and flexibility. Those corners look to tight.
Outside walls no Vapour Barrier. Interesting
Exactly, most homes are water tight outside, nothing like trapping moisture with a plastic vapor barrier
I use Roxul R15 on outside walls in a bathroom, and know not to put plastic over it as it has to breath and wick. I had a building inspector tell me to install plastic over it during a rough inspection but I did not... manufacturer doesn't recommend it. Inspectors need to get up to speed on newer applications and best practices for walls.
Failed inspections are the norm here in our cold climates with no Vapour barrier unless you’ve done spray foam… They even have a air infiltration inspections for the VB before drywall can be done.
Heads up. If I follow the link to the 3 day shower course at the very bottom instead of showing the price like other courses is shows "true". I am a programmer, glad it is not "false". lol programming jokes.
Had to stop the video to bust your chops. You bought an expensive caulk gun to speed up installation but you don’t feel the need to get a hole saw kit to cut out the valve area!? Other then that I’m resuming the video 👍👍
😆
All these videos on youtube and you are selling courses. Come on man!
Gen x 😂
❤
ITS SO ITCHY 🤪🤣
I don't see this necessary as the price is $26 instead of $9.
$27.50 per sheet of Goboard? $137.50 to wall that shower! That is ridiculous. Are they using gold plating for the waterproofing? Price gouging at its best.
exactly...i posted a comment above your customer is paying 5x more minimum just on material. these companies are putting their hands in installers pocket if anything. no room to bid when everything is wayyyy over priced lol
@@RawTakes....yeah, cuz Redguard/Aquadefense and fiberglas tape are all so cheap. Do all the maths.
@@JT-rc7vx Well considering ive done this for 12 years installing, sellling jobs and getting materials for jobs it is dramatically cheaper buying aquadefense, ($150 for a 3.5 gal floor n decor) and a $12 role of seam tape that will last probably a good 8 showers this size. Add in cement board so $60 and then durok screws $32... if u did 8 of those showers with that fibre board you spend $2k with their fasteners and seem tape and board. Now lets compare durok, aqua defense, fasteners and seem tape for a total of 8 showers your just buying durok and probably one more case of screws at that point so $450 in durok lets say.. all in all its 1/4th the cost. There is your quick rough youtube maths off the top of my head buddy. For this one shower you can buy a 1 gal for $70, a small case of screws and durok for $75 so its a little cheaper. Odds are these guys are not in business to do one shower lol.
Cheaper than the labor involved in dated waterproofing systems 🤷
137.50 and waterproof
GO GO GADGET!!!
If you can get your customer to spend 5x the amount of regular cementboard then sure, its great for an installer. not practical on the pocket book though.
By the time you seem tape your joints and use two coats of topical waterproof over your cement board, your labor and material cost make it comparable and extend your install time. I think most customers would be happy to spend a little more on the product and have the job move along faster.
I'm a pro and I've done the math on every system out there. This is the very cheapest fully waterproofed system, including all labor & material charges. You just aren't adding up the labor & material costs properly for multiple coats of surface waterproofing. Your customer will spend less if you price fairly
I wonder if there is a battery powered chink gun...now that would be very nice! All of us who have pumped hundreds of tubes of caulk dream of the auto caulk gun...🎉
Most big cordless tool companies make them. Milwaukee, ryobi, dewalt. Kobalt and I’m sure there’s more. Love mine