I'm an experienced woodworking, framer and carpenter who is trying to learn the skills and get the experience in plumbing, electric, roofing, concrete, and landscaping, so i can be a complete contractor/builder i work on my home when repairs or new installations need to be done,learning as i go. This video helped me very much on how to do this the correct way and what materials to use. thank you. thumbs up
I've watched more of these shower videos than I can remember but have to say you explain how to do this type of work better than all the others , even better than the company videos. You are an amazing teacher. It's rare to see someone with that gift.
Thank You for taking the time to teach all your viewers the basics, building a prototype in your shop can’t be cheap. This clearly demonstrates your commitment to educate those of us who love to Home Renovated and get that personal self gratification we get on a job properly done. Cheers Gary
First off, I've watched (in horror) dozens of tile videos over the years. Yours are the first ones that are actually correct and worth watching. Well done. For mortar pans, try this method: Before you even add your dry pack. Properly calculate the desired height of your perimeter mud screeds (whole other trick for that) Place your level against the wall so that the BOTTOM of the level is at the desired height of said screeds. Of course, level the level accurately. Scribe a level line (I use Sharpie pens) along the TOP of the level. Chase that line around the walls and curb (if possible or applicable). Throw in your dry pack. Put the level back against the wall and pound it down to reveal your line. I slide it back and forth to "steel trowel" the mud screed. Repeat for all walls. This method eliminates the need to constantly check your bubble or use one screed height to start another. You already have a level reference line! It makes it simple to insure that your screeds are perfect. It is incredibly fast and highly accurate (provided your line is good!). It is easier to pack the screeds down tight. Should you pack the screed down too far. It is super easy to correct. If you dig into a screed. It's super easy to correct. Idiot proof even. Hope this was worth the read.
Thanks man, your videos are very helpful, me being truck driver and now thanks to you videos I am a tile guy lol, I did all 3 showers in my house and working my moms house now. Thank you, much appreciated.
Thank you broth . As a tile installer, I have to say that one of the most important key for this job , is the mortar mud texture. He mixed it perfectly.
Your a god send to the Home Improvement world. No horsecrap, but i admire your attention to detail and always complete jobs the Right way. Thank You for dropping knowledge
Pre slope and pebbles every time! Love your videos man, certain "pros" out there giving it all they got to argue against the proper steps, some even mentioned how your tests were "flawed" because of whatever reason they made up lol. You are truly a master at your craft, the pros posting videos only to argue against yours, those are the ones clients need to stay away from.
very nice.. I'm an old retired builder and I've done a lot of frame-ins for showers before hot mop and I've been long gone when the deck mud went in. I'm going to do a new walk-in shower in my new place the old traditional way especially after seeing the possible negatives with other systems. Great video.. thanks for sharing.
It feels so good when I start to understand how to do it correctly. Thank you so much for your videos and for explaining in such detail. I am going to tile my family's shared shower since we have the big white plastic one (if you know which ones im talking about) and the bottom is cracked, leaking and causing the rest of bathroom floor to swell, the panels are peeling off the walls and water gets in them, mold everywhere, the sealant in between the cracks are horrible from all the sealed attempts etc etc can't hire a contractor at the moment for financial reasons, so I took it upon myself to make a better, safer, and cleaner shower for me and the fam. And I want to make sure I do it right the first time. So thank you ❤
You are one of the better installers I’ve seen on TH-cam one thing I like to do is use 1.5x1.5 wood around the outside to level it off then pull them fill and finish it
this method works fantastic. However, to save little time, i get the slope hight marked on shower pan with a sharpie before i mix mud and this gets me real close. hope this helps and doesnt come off as "mr know it all" =)
👍 laser level to get a line on the pan all around from the drain and mark it with a permanent marker. Cover the drain with tape, you won't scratch the finish and no sand gets in. Don't want to get blamed for a clogged drain.
If I may add a little piece of advice that helps me getting the perimeter level, when leveling the next wall 45 📐 from wall to wall to help keep the same height around the edge. Great job explaining, it’s a little harder than it looks if you haven’t done 100 of them. Thanks. I’ve been doing flooring over 20 years and still watch videos to learn something new.
@@Tell-me-more-75225 I use a small level and 2x4’s and build a small form all the way around the edge level pour it first and let it set up. With the drain set lover by a half bubble then the inside curb, being the doorway is about twice as high as the inside, then I pour the inside sloped to the drain. Leave enough room for the tile to just barely be above the drain when complete.
Nice work! Wood floats are invaluable. Lasers work awesome for pans as well. I was trained on forms in a pan but now I float to a laser line and shape the edges then put in drain at desired height, then float down. Another trick I like is mortise out corners of studs so you dont get bumped out 😉
I use a gauge block. I made them in 1/4” increments! I place the correct thickness block on the drain and set the level on it and the mud pack at the wall. I center the bubble and I have the correct slop. This is much easier than using a tape measure!
Good method and techniques. Even easier to finish pan after screed points are hardened, in two stages. At any rate, count on needing to fine tune it for flatness and smoothness in a separate stage to get a really nice result. Unless you’re a rock star like our friend here.
Great video! Totally helpful! I do a lot of DIY stuff but I was really hesitant to try to do the sloping mud bed. I was going to get the Goof Proof product that they sell to assist with this but I would have had to order it online as neither the local HomeDepot or Lowes carried the product and I didn't have time (or patience) to wait. Instead, I watched your video and decided to man-up and go for it. It took you 20 minutes; it took me 3 hours! Regardless, I did it and it came out perfect. This is NOT a project for beginners but you certainly made it as understandable as one could and understandable enough for me to figure it out and do it. Thanks for being cool and explaining the process and breaking down each step.
You do a great job. Especially talking about requiring a pre slope. The only thing I do different is I raise the drain after I’m done to the tile height. Then just re pack around drain.
me too.. its a little harder with square drains but still alot easier. with round drains i think its weird to see vids of people packing below the drain when it screws ...
I was gonna pay to have three bathrooms done. But now that I watch this video I’m gonna do it myself I will call you if I need help I live in Redding Ca. Just subscribe!!
Hello Isaac. Excellent video . I enjoy how smoothly you operate from being a skilled tradesman to a great coach . You have two great abilities that is why you are happy and successful person. You truly find a great satisfaction in doing this and it shows. Thank You.
Excellent video Isaac, this is the best way to do the slope, but I would not let a steel trowel near my pan liner period. Instead of using a wood float I would use a clean magnesium float, it doubles as a trowel and will not puncture the pan liner on accident (accidents do happen)
@@genebyrum4075 Thanks for asking but unfortunately I’ve put off repairs due to the recent very high cost of building materials. Will get back to that once things ease a bit.
Thank you bruh! This video basically explains how elevation needed for shower drainer and pad. Hired this guy to do the mud mix and damn both width ends are very noticeably high, his explanation was that the pad needs to be elevated on both sides so water can slid down. He needs to see this vid.
Finally!! It's nice to see someone properly screeding a shower pan. Your deck mud looked really lean in this video. Almost like a 5 to 1 or even leaner? Just going by the sound and color of it.
Two things you need to be a tile man. A good eye and patience. My wife told me I needed to write a book. I did a demo and install in a small shower (30x36) once and the homeowner at 9am was already on his second 32oz of JD. He kept coming to the bathroom door to "check" on me. I was just about through with my bed, next thing I knew the old fella had fallen on top of me and well let's just say things got ...I think you know. Good presentation enjoyed it,
@@TileCoach how bout this, lady went to work, told me if car wasn't in garage then go on in. Last trip, no car, went in back door yelling hello, no answer. Got set up started grouting. Heard noise at hall door looked up..she had been in shower, loaned car to son, she was in birthday suit, wow!!! Only problem...she was in her 60s. She screamed, I giggled, shook my head and went back grouting. Lol
Tile coach can you please do a tutorial on installing durarock, seam taping ,curb build out methods, mud pan with a linear drain with out membrane attached, and liquid membrane for water proofing over a hot mop shower pan. This is not on the internet and it seems ridiculous. Hot mop is a california thing and I know your in Cali too. Its so crazy you cant find a videos nregarding finishing showers over a hotmop.
Great job , you're a good teacher . You're the 1st one who explain things perfectly and talk about the numbers we have to use when we are doing the job
I think it is important to consider the selected tile. If you are using a 4 inch mosaic you sometimes have a good reason to not level the outside. If you have a rectangle shower the fall will be much steeper from the close sides than the far sides. That can cause the larger mosaics to not flatten out as well. For those type showers I float a constant 1/3 of the bubble over the line in every direction. A complete bowl shape. I guess after 30 years I have little tricks.
Really great post. everything you did and said was so clear and simple. All anyone needs is a little confidence and a have ago attitude ah 👍Thumbs up from me..
Nice video again. The drain u use has more possiabiltys by flipping the clamping ring over for more strainer height, you were proabably maxed out on threads. Thats drain is one of two drains on the market that has those capabilties that I am aware of. With more height adjustment you can use the top of the drain as your float guide and not notch your float stick. Then screw the drain up for the tile thickness after floating the mud . They make and I am sure you may now about it a plastic weep hole protector rings , much easier than the gravel. Why no reinforcement in the mud bed? TCNA use to call for it but I learned this past week it is no longer required for showers less than 65 sq ft. I still put in. Flipping the clamping ring to get extented strainer height is nessary if you are reinforcing the bed.
@@mdislam6381 I have always used in my shower floors . TCNA says anything less than 65 sq feet it is not required . I believe the older hand books did say it was recommend or required no matter what size the shower is but I do not have the older handbooks.
I think I would use a narrow board around the pan perimeter to ensure a solid height reference for the outside edge of the mud, then remove that board and backfill once the rest of the mud has been properly sloped to the drain.
Excellent video, the only thing I do different is I use the top of drain as a screed instead of packing below it. I pack to the top of drain, then unscrew the drain up the thickness of the tile. The only time I pack below it , is if theres not enough threads and need the drain up all the way, but that rarely happens.
You actually shouldn’t do shower pans with wet mud. The dry pack actually allows the water to filter down through in to the weep holes. If you put it in very wet it dries much more compacted and will not dry out as well. Plus it’s way easier with the dry pack, so you can cut it and not get any memory where it moves like a liquid.
Does i dry like concrete? How long until you can put tile down? Some gray areas there, other than that I like the video, gives me confidence and motivation to attempt this. I do a lot of diy and home improvements on my own and friends. I have done tile and such and looking to improve and learn new things. Thx 🙏
Your videos are great. I got allot of tips from you. There is one I haven’t seen. Would you consider making a video for a mud base on a concrete basement floor. Thanks.
Thank you for all these great videos, gonna make it happen today! One thing I had a hard time finding a solid answer on is whether to put the curb mortar first or after the pan. Also what kind of mud mix to use?
Easier if you put your screed strips in sand cement, then screeded off them with a straight edge. When you are done pull your strips out and infill the void created by them.
It never ceases to amaze me how many so called professional tiles setters tend to believe that water will flow through the sand mix in an entire pan but then hit the weep holes and stop because nobody put rocks in them.
@@TileCoach fair enough, but I don't see how it logically makes a difference. It's something I have questioned for near 30 years now. People act like it is some special trick.. But hey Bud, I admire your work. It's as solid as it can get. Not what I do to make money, but definitely on the high end of the spectrum
AMAZING EXPLANATION Thank you very much!
$3mwmses3 we d$$m???ndmddmd?ddm mmd?,?d$mmmd?m
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I'm an experienced woodworking, framer and carpenter who is trying to learn the skills and get the experience in plumbing, electric, roofing, concrete, and landscaping, so i can be a complete contractor/builder i work on my home when repairs or new installations need to be done,learning as i go. This video helped me very much on how to do this the correct way and what materials to use. thank you. thumbs up
I've watched more of these shower videos than I can remember but have to say you explain how to do this type of work better than all the others , even better than the company videos. You are an amazing teacher. It's rare to see someone with that gift.
Thank You for taking the time to teach all your viewers the basics, building a prototype in your shop can’t be cheap. This clearly demonstrates your commitment to educate those of us who love to Home Renovated and get that personal self gratification we get on a job properly done. Cheers Gary
First off, I've watched (in horror) dozens of tile videos over the years. Yours are the first ones that are actually correct and worth watching. Well done.
For mortar pans, try this method:
Before you even add your dry pack.
Properly calculate the desired height of your perimeter mud screeds (whole other trick for that)
Place your level against the wall so that the BOTTOM of the level is at the desired height of said screeds. Of course, level the level accurately.
Scribe a level line (I use Sharpie pens) along the TOP of the level.
Chase that line around the walls and curb (if possible or applicable).
Throw in your dry pack.
Put the level back against the wall and pound it down to reveal your line. I slide it back and forth to "steel trowel" the mud screed.
Repeat for all walls.
This method eliminates the need to constantly check your bubble or use one screed height to start another. You already have a level reference line! It makes it simple to insure that your screeds are perfect. It is incredibly fast and highly accurate (provided your line is good!). It is easier to pack the screeds down tight. Should you pack the screed down too far. It is super easy to correct. If you dig into a screed. It's super easy to correct. Idiot proof even.
Hope this was worth the read.
Thanks man, your videos are very helpful, me being truck driver and now thanks to you videos I am a tile guy lol, I did all 3 showers in my house and working my moms house now. Thank you, much appreciated.
Thank you broth . As a tile installer, I have to say that one of the most important key for this job , is the mortar mud texture. He mixed it perfectly.
I like how you show us using these mockups in the shop. Lot easier to see thing vs in cramped bathroom. Keep up the good work.
Your a god send to the Home Improvement world. No horsecrap, but i admire your attention to detail and always complete jobs the Right way. Thank You for dropping knowledge
Wow finally a person I understand clearly thanks a lot
Pre slope and pebbles every time! Love your videos man, certain "pros" out there giving it all they got to argue against the proper steps, some even mentioned how your tests were "flawed" because of whatever reason they made up lol. You are truly a master at your craft, the pros posting videos only to argue against yours, those are the ones clients need to stay away from.
Nice video. Filmed well. No wasted filler. Too the point. Camera is your friend.
very nice.. I'm an old retired builder and I've done a lot of frame-ins for showers before hot mop and I've been long gone when the deck mud went in. I'm going to do a new walk-in shower in my new place the old traditional way especially after seeing the possible negatives with other systems. Great video.. thanks for sharing.
It feels so good when I start to understand how to do it correctly. Thank you so much for your videos and for explaining in such detail. I am going to tile my family's shared shower since we have the big white plastic one (if you know which ones im talking about) and the bottom is cracked, leaking and causing the rest of bathroom floor to swell, the panels are peeling off the walls and water gets in them, mold everywhere, the sealant in between the cracks are horrible from all the sealed attempts etc etc can't hire a contractor at the moment for financial reasons, so I took it upon myself to make a better, safer, and cleaner shower for me and the fam. And I want to make sure I do it right the first time. So thank you ❤
You are one of the better installers I’ve seen on TH-cam one thing I like to do is use 1.5x1.5 wood around the outside to level it off then pull them fill and finish it
this method works fantastic. However, to save little time, i get the slope hight marked on shower pan with a sharpie before i mix mud and this gets me real close. hope this helps and doesnt come off as "mr know it all" =)
I do the same thing you’ll always be able to see it and never worry. But I did like the little tile trick, it would be cool to incorporate both
Good idea I thought that also lol.. 👍
👍 laser level to get a line on the pan all around from the drain and mark it with a permanent marker. Cover the drain with tape, you won't scratch the finish and no sand gets in. Don't want to get blamed for a clogged drain.
Being from the UK, I notice all of your building materials sound a lot cooler 😎
Yea man!!! this helped out alot of the old heads dont like to show us youngings any tricks. Job security I guess. Thanks just subscribed
Lots of trades are like that bro. Especially in hvac these techs are all assholes. Good luck finding one who will teach.
Or keep you on the same money
If I may add a little piece of advice that helps me getting the perimeter level, when leveling the next wall 45 📐 from wall to wall to help keep the same height around the edge. Great job explaining, it’s a little harder than it looks if you haven’t done 100 of them. Thanks. I’ve been doing flooring over 20 years and still watch videos to learn something new.
Would you be willing to explain more what you mean about the way you get the perimeter level?
@@Tell-me-more-75225 I use a small level and 2x4’s and build a small form all the way around the edge level pour it first and let it set up. With the drain set lover by a half bubble then the inside curb, being the doorway is about twice as high as the inside, then I pour the inside sloped to the drain. Leave enough room for the tile to just barely be above the drain when complete.
Nice work! Wood floats are invaluable. Lasers work awesome for pans as well. I was trained on forms in a pan but now I float to a laser line and shape the edges then put in drain at desired height, then float down. Another trick I like is mortise out corners of studs so you dont get bumped out 😉
I use a gauge block. I made them in 1/4” increments! I place the correct thickness block on the drain and set the level on it and the mud pack at the wall. I center the bubble and I have the correct slop. This is much easier than using a tape measure!
Good method and techniques. Even easier to finish pan after screed points are hardened, in two stages. At any rate, count on needing to fine tune it for flatness and smoothness in a separate stage to get a really nice result. Unless you’re a rock star like our friend here.
I have been installing tile for 14yrs and do my mud pans exactly the same great work.
No you don't
Yea, sure. Sure you do. So does my sister.
@@catlady8324 what ever gets you through your day don't give a shit go play with you ugly ass cat
Great video! Totally helpful! I do a lot of DIY stuff but I was really hesitant to try to do the sloping mud bed. I was going to get the Goof Proof product that they sell to assist with this but I would have had to order it online as neither the local HomeDepot or Lowes carried the product and I didn't have time (or patience) to wait. Instead, I watched your video and decided to man-up and go for it. It took you 20 minutes; it took me 3 hours! Regardless, I did it and it came out perfect. This is NOT a project for beginners but you certainly made it as understandable as one could and understandable enough for me to figure it out and do it. Thanks for being cool and explaining the process and breaking down each step.
Made it look easy. Legend. Serious forearms too brother
You do a great job. Especially talking about requiring a pre slope. The only thing I do different is I raise the drain after I’m done to the tile height. Then just re pack around drain.
Yea that sounds easier
me too.. its a little harder with square drains but still alot easier. with round drains i think its weird to see vids of people packing below the drain when it screws ...
You have the best instructional patience we rookies need! Thank you for your posts!
Thanks for the video it really help me get my shower done
I was gonna pay to have three bathrooms done. But now that I watch this video I’m gonna do it myself I will call you if I need help I live in Redding Ca. Just subscribe!!
We need a video for building a shower pan for a linear drain with basic materials not fancy expensive stuff.
Hello Isaac. Excellent video . I enjoy how smoothly you operate from being a skilled tradesman to a great coach . You have two great abilities that is why you are happy and successful person. You truly find a great satisfaction in doing this and it shows. Thank You.
Thanks for the information, very timely as I am about to make my shower pan. Cheers Steve.
Pure talent. Smooth. Expert. Thank you!
Wow, thank you!
Great video!! One of the best I have seen!! Great job explaining it too thank you
That’s very skillful work, I can appreciate that
Excellent video Isaac, this is the best way to do the slope, but I would not let a steel trowel near my pan liner period. Instead of using a wood float I would use a clean magnesium float, it doubles as a trowel and will not puncture the pan liner on accident (accidents do happen)
A beginner teachings beginners. I love it, great entertainment.
I ended up here because I’m about to attempt my first soon. This was pretty awesome and straightforward and to the point.
how did it turn out I am getting ready to do one myself.
@@genebyrum4075 Thanks for asking but unfortunately I’ve put off repairs due to the recent very high cost of building materials. Will get back to that once things ease a bit.
So convenient a floor at standing working height, if only
Thank you bruh! This video basically explains how elevation needed for shower drainer and pad.
Hired this guy to do the mud mix and damn both width ends are very noticeably high, his explanation was that the pad needs to be elevated on both sides so water can slid down.
He needs to see this vid.
Finally!! It's nice to see someone properly screeding a shower pan. Your deck mud looked really lean in this video. Almost like a 5 to 1 or even leaner? Just going by the sound and color of it.
Thanks coach i watch all of these i can, i have tile floor/ threshold thats coming out, i would like to use the method, excited/ nervous, thank you
Thanks couch Isaac, great tutorial cristal clear!!!I’ll be remodeling my shower soon and this is a good start.
Very informative. I am going to give it a shot here pretty quick.
31 years in the trade. Never seen gravel,used. But it makes sense......here in florida it’s code to have a pre slope under the vynl then mud on top
I usually rip down a 2x4 lay them around the perimeter and screed off of the 2x4 and drain.. and pull out and back fill fee awsome work
...excellent technique!...thanks for taking the time share your expertise.
Perfect. Great tutorial Isaac!
Two things you need to be a tile man. A good eye and patience. My wife told me I needed to write a book. I did a demo and install in a small shower (30x36) once and the homeowner at 9am was already on his second 32oz of JD. He kept coming to the bathroom door to "check" on me. I was just about through with my bed, next thing I knew the old fella had fallen on top of me and well let's just say things got ...I think you know. Good presentation enjoyed it,
@@TileCoach how bout this, lady went to work, told me if car wasn't in garage then go on in. Last trip, no car, went in back door yelling hello, no answer. Got set up started grouting. Heard noise at hall door looked up..she had been in shower, loaned car to son, she was in birthday suit, wow!!! Only problem...she was in her 60s. She screamed, I giggled, shook my head and went back grouting. Lol
Tile setters always have the best stories, but then I've only been hearing them for 45 years, so I'm a little biased.
Thanks for the video, very simple and easy to understand presentation. I'm a do it yourselfer and do most household projects myself.
THAT is a work of art.
Following from Pakistan 🇵🇰
Like anyone that is pro at something you make that look easy. Great vid.
You saved us. Thanks man. Nice video
Great video Isaac. Keep them coming. You show us how to do an excellent job.
I wish you were on here when I did my first and only shower in my basement 6 years ago.
Excellent Technique. Thanks for the lesson.
Actually you should be just teaching but all craftsman enjoy a great outcome 👍🇺🇸
Thank you sir! First time doing this thing but with your instructions, i will be much comfortable. Cheers!
Thanks for teaching! Here we go!
Thank you for the great videos, nice to watch someone that is passionate about their work.
Great tutorial! Thanks for doing it in an area visible on all sides! 🙌🏼
I wish you could do all shower pans from a standing position, lol
Very well explained! I feel confident now to tackle my own shower replacement for the first time. Just not sure on the dry pack mix ratios.
4 bags sand to 1 cement
Thanks so much, I really like how you explain and share great tips. Love you positive attitude towards life in general
Great job. Leveling around the entire perimeter allows you to start off level for your wall courses. I do all my floors exactly like this.
Your videos are professional and informative. Liked and subbed. Thank you. Cheers, D.
Great video man! Thank you sir! And how nice to work waist height....
Tile coach can you please do a tutorial on installing durarock, seam taping ,curb build out methods, mud pan with a linear drain with out membrane attached, and liquid membrane for water proofing over a hot mop shower pan. This is not on the internet and it seems ridiculous. Hot mop is a california thing and I know your in Cali too. Its so crazy you cant find a videos nregarding finishing showers over a hotmop.
Great job , you're a good teacher . You're the 1st one who explain things perfectly and talk about the numbers we have to use when we are doing the job
I think it is important to consider the selected tile. If you are using a 4 inch mosaic you sometimes have a good reason to not level the outside. If you have a rectangle shower the fall will be much steeper from the close sides than the far sides. That can cause the larger mosaics to not flatten out as well. For those type showers I float a constant 1/3 of the bubble over the line in every direction. A complete bowl shape. I guess after 30 years I have little tricks.
Nice trick
With the stick ! I’m try that Monday ! Thanks for the great video man !
Really great post. everything you did and said was so clear and simple. All anyone needs is a little confidence and a have ago attitude ah 👍Thumbs up from me..
Beastly.. Excellent work.
Hell yeah brother! Nice job!
Thanks for the AWESOME videos!
Nice video again. The drain u use has more possiabiltys by flipping the clamping ring over for more strainer height, you were proabably maxed out on threads. Thats drain is one of two drains on the market that has those capabilties that I am aware of. With more height adjustment you can use the top of the drain as your float guide and not notch your float stick. Then screw the drain up for the tile thickness after floating the mud . They make and I am sure you may now about it a plastic weep hole protector rings , much easier than the gravel.
Why no reinforcement in the mud bed? TCNA use to call for it but I learned this past week it is no longer required for showers less than 65 sq ft. I still put in. Flipping the clamping ring to get extented strainer height is nessary if you are reinforcing the bed.
Why no reinforcement in the mud bed? - - it is my questions while using flexible inner which could crack the upper surface over the time.
@@mdislam6381 I have always used in my shower floors . TCNA says anything less than 65 sq feet it is not required . I believe the older hand books did say it was recommend or required no matter what size the shower is but I do not have the older handbooks.
I think I would use a narrow board around the pan perimeter to ensure a solid height reference for the outside edge of the mud, then remove that board and backfill once the rest of the mud has been properly sloped to the drain.
Excellent video, the only thing I do different is I use the top of drain as a screed instead of packing below it. I pack to the top of drain, then unscrew the drain up the thickness of the tile. The only time I pack below it , is if theres not enough threads and need the drain up all the way, but that rarely happens.
Good advice.
This was so helpful for me with my wetroom shower, thank you.
Loving this dry method, I will try in my home
You actually shouldn’t do shower pans with wet mud. The dry pack actually allows the water to filter down through in to the weep holes. If you put it in very wet it dries much more compacted and will not dry out as well. Plus it’s way easier with the dry pack, so you can cut it and not get any memory where it moves like a liquid.
Nice I always use round p gravel around drain the sharper gravel will puncture liner
UR MY HEROOO BRO☝🏾💯🤙🏾
Very nice man thanks for let us know it God blessed
Does i dry like concrete? How long until you can put tile down? Some gray areas there, other than that I like the video, gives me confidence and motivation to attempt this. I do a lot of diy and home improvements on my own and friends. I have done tile and such and looking to improve and learn new things. Thx 🙏
Did you preslope before the pan liner? In other words, does the liner itself preslope?
Always like your videos man thank you for sharing.
Is the Liner Pre sloped????? If not that's wrong. DITRA SHOWER is the way to go. Much easier. Good Teacher.
Just picked up a magnesium trowel. Works awesome!!!
superb info and explanation
Wow great video very helpful
Great explanation.
Great video! Lots of information. Thank you!!
Good Job, like your video's...
What do you have underneath that liner...
Your videos are great. I got allot of tips from you.
There is one I haven’t seen. Would you consider making a video for a mud base on a concrete basement floor. Thanks.
Nice work. Great instructions. New Sub'ber!
Have you reviewed the Quick Pitch shower kit? It helps DIY people with the slope.
Thank you for all these great videos, gonna make it happen today! One thing I had a hard time finding a solid answer on is whether to put the curb mortar first or after the pan. Also what kind of mud mix to use?
Easier if you put your screed strips in sand cement, then screeded off them with a straight edge. When you are done pull your strips out and infill the void created by them.
that method is good for beginners
It never ceases to amaze me how many so called professional tiles setters tend to believe that water will flow through the sand mix in an entire pan but then hit the weep holes and stop because nobody put rocks in them.
@@TileCoach fair enough, but I don't see how it logically makes a difference. It's something I have questioned for near 30 years now.
People act like it is some special trick..
But hey Bud, I admire your work. It's as solid as it can get.
Not what I do to make money, but definitely on the high end of the spectrum