94-97 Honda Accord Muffler Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I show you how to replace a damaged muffler on 1994-1997 Accords.
Honda exhaust self locking flange nuts part number 90212-671-005.
Some models will have spring bolts and donut gaskets instead of the crush gaskets and flange nuts this California emission model Accord had. But the replacement process is the same.
You can reuse the donut gaskets in most cases and the spring bolts can also be reused. The flanges WON'T come together when the spring bolts are fully tightened. Just tighten the spring bolts until the shoulder on them is flush with the flange. The springs handle the compression of the gasket.
Inside the old muffler:
• Inside A Rusted Out Mu...
"Welcome To The Show" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
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Due to factors beyond the control of Bushougoma, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Bushougoma assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Bushougoma recommends safe practices when working with the tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Bushougoma.
You sir, articulated the tasks at hand incredibly well on this video. Very easy to understand - clear and concise video. Thanks, very helpful!
I appreciate your time. Gave me the confidence I needed to tackle the job.
Great vid! The best investment I made in my exhaust was stainless steel nuts & bolts. Eventually you have to do it again, and they unscrew like butter.
I used to work on turbine engines and the exhaust system were always lock-wired to prevent from become lose. To bad the auto industry doesn’t use this method on their exhaust system.
Good video. I've noticed you haven't posted new videos in a while, I'd really like to see more from you. Like you, I have a '94 Accord that I work on and your videos have been great. The one about bleeding the ABS pump was excellent and worked to a 'T'. thanks for your videos.
Excellent video. Thank you. Very helpful. I will now change out the muffler on my 95 Honda following your directions.
Your accord looks like it's in pristine shape underneath.
Excellent video brother... Very well thought out and executed... Nice video pre-planning and editing skills.. Very informative without being needlessly drawn out
Hey thanks for posting this. It is really helpful!
Just the video I need to see with good tips too! Thanks
def a great video, thanks so much.
Realy good vid! Good tips to make it easier in the future!
Did this job a year or so back on my 94EX. It is a bit challenging to work under the car. I tend to get a bid nauseated after working on my back. Odd that your underbody shows so little rust and exhaust fittings so much. I tried to protect the welds w/ black exhaust paint which as seemed to help a bit. I live in TX and we don't have salt on roads.
Man... Great tips and Video man cheers
Great job, keep em' comin!
Man... Great tips and Video man cheers
Hey I'm going to replace my muffler and was wondering where you bough it?
Why the high idle??at beginning
Great video 👍 Unfortunately for me, the resonator has a hole and will need to be replaced. Question, can I use a good quality high temp epoxy to fill in the hole on the B pipe resonator?
Can you send the link to where you got the muffler
I know I'm super late but what's the name and zize of that gasket between the flange
Hey man, nicely done! i actually need to get that done. where in the NE are you. Perhaps you can do this on my 1999 accord coupe?
That is a large difference between the aftermarket and oem part,!
Hendrik Derudder tbh that's not really aftermarket, what he showed was an oe replacement from a different company. An aftermarket exhaust is tended for performance and doesn't look anything like the oe one and they are mostly stainless steel
@@ashwinsivaainkaran202 There are plenty of aftermarket exhausts styled after OEM all over Amazon and eBay. They just take shortcuts like what was shown in the video, which leads to a shorter lifespan. Watch out for the performance exhausts, as they're almost all loud and raspy. Very hard to get a pleasing sound out of these cars along with extra performance.
How much does this job normally cost?
I hope you're still around. Where did you get your exhaust? Advance and AutoZone are trying to tell me 500 for the kit. I have a 95 accord sohc 4 liter
What you looking for? Email me goethe200@gmail.com
Rockauto.com
Great vid as usual
I need to ask what type of crush gasket did you use and where I can get it ?
I prefer the crush gasket you used compared to to the other ones which I find much thicker
If you can at least give me the part number for it
Thanks
Great video! Do you think MAPP torch could have done this job? By the way, at least at one time, if you bought Honda exhaust part once, they were covered for the life of the car. I was shocked when you said that the new pat from Honda was only $30 more than the aftermarket part.
I doubt it there's a lot of thermal capacity in the two flanges and connected pipes (they suck up a lot of heat). To heat them up in any reasonable amount of time you would need some type of oxygenated flame oxy/acetylene or oxy/propane.
What's the gasket part number you used between the pipe and the muffler?
I always use the middle of the cross member and just jack up the whole back at once. I've got a 95.
Where did you get the oe part?
It's been my subjective impression that when catalytic converters became mainstream, muffler replacement wasn't required nearly as often. As a guess I'll say that acidic exhaust accelerated rust (but what do I know, ha ha).
The oxidation catalyst in the catalytic converter converts carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel) to carbon dioxide and water so if anything the addition of catalytic converters accelerated the deterioration of exhaust components.
Short trips without fully warming the exhaust system up to evaporate the water inside will shorten it's life.
Catalytic converters do increase rust, but in the 60's and 70's cars used carbon steel exhaust which was thin and susceptible to rust. They then started using aluminized steel which had better corrosion resistance. Nowdays they're mostly stainless steel and last the lifetime of the vehicle. If you remove the catalytic converter, you can get an aluminized steel exhaust to last the lifetime, provided you wash any road salt off it.
I assume this works on a 93 accord as well??
did you put the rear larger hanger on the right or left side ?
Can you recommend an exhaust will a deep tone. Can’t stand the ones that sound like a pack of weed eaters. Great vid! Keep it up great work
Replace the muffler with pretty much anything straight through. As long as you don't touch the resonator upstream, that's all there is to it. Removing the resonator activates weed eater mode.
Nice video. Would have liked to see the studs removed. Did you heat them, then hammer them out from the tread side?
+rfn944 They weren't studs this was an aftermarket pipe with through bolts.
+Bushougoma How does the pipe flange on the cat come from the factory? Studs or through bolts. Thanks
rfn944
It depends on what emissions model you have the system and component setup varies slightly. Hopefully you have the federal emissions model because the California emissions model can be difficult to locate certain aftermarket parts for.
If you have a small flex pipe after the cat on the B pipe you have a federal emissions model. If you have a large flex pipe in the front before the cat you have a California emissions model.
On federal emissions models there are pressed in studs on the mid pipe side of the cat with spring bolts on the other side. On California emissions models there are studs on both sides of the cat.
It's not uncommon to have to cut them off and drive them out with an air hammer when doing exhaust work. I replace them with through bolts (Honda wants a ridiculous price for the studs) just put some anti seize on the threads to make the job easier next time.
***** Pretty sure this model is federal emissions. Thanks for the info.
And where do you get the bolts?
Great Video! Does Honda offer lifetime warranty if you install it?
It only applies to the replacement OE muffler you purchased (not the one that came with the vehicle) and is non-transferable to future owners.
Bushougoma, I have a suspension question also. I have replaced my lower control arm, strut asseblies and upper control arm. I did this because over the years the suspension got bad, when ever I went over any bumps or pot holes in the road it flet like the car was bottoming out. I still get this issue. I saw an ad on subframe bushings and it claimed these restore a car from a wagon train ride back to original. Do you know what I am talking about, the Acura cl 3.0 is a 1997 and most of the suspension was previously original equiptment. The strut assemblies I put in were in the front of the car were aftermarket from China. But regardless I hear the bottoming out sound both front and rear. From diagrams of the car there are six subframe bushings four in the front cross member and two in the rear of the car. Have you ever replaced them on a honda to improve ride suspension performance to get a more comfortable quiet ride?
I take it you've already checked the sway bar bushings? They can cause a loud metallic knocking over bumps if they've cracked.
To check the sub frame bushings get a pry bar and try to move the component in question. If there is metal to metal contact or excessive movement the bushings are bad.
I changed the end link bushings, the ones if they brake make a clinking noise. I dont believe I have replaced the sway bar bushings. They are those small rubber (2) bushings which holds the sway bar to the underside of the car. There is a smaller ie a thinner one in the rear of the car as well. The sound is loud a banging noise over bumps or small pot holes. I will check them out and if loose will replace them as well. Cant hurt. What do you think about old body bushings, ie subframe bushings. the car feels like a old horse drawn wagon over bumps, not at all like when I first got the car when it was three years old, it use to ride very comfortably Would like to restore that comfort again.
what brand muffler did you purchase? i been looking at bosal for my 94, but i heard they changed their design so its doesnt have supports and welds like this one you got...
Don't get Bosal. I got their midpipe and muffler, and after 1.5 years, they broke in multiple places, including the damaged hanger shown in this video.
what is the size of the hex bolt?
Mine were 8mm and 9/16th I have the coupe but its probably the same
How did you knock out the old studs?
Heat the flange up until it's cherry red and knock the studs out with a punch and large hammer. An air hammer would speed up the process.
Go for the 5HP soup can muffler so you can annoy everyone!
More HP🔥stock!
thanx but mine is not Accord, but a Civic DX
why do people always call them vehicles instead of autos or cars. that bothers me!
"Vehicle" is all-inclusive. "Auto/car" refers to a specific type of vehicle.
lol exacty like my accord.
turro automatico con marchas es mejor el carro!