I'm a backyard Mechanic with heavy experience with Vintage Mustangs and Vintage Corvettes. My Son delivers Pizza for Domino's at night while attending the local University. He's basically driven the Honda into the ground! After he damaged my Crew Cab delivering Pizza, I decided that a new Honda was out of the question for him, and fixing the old Honda made more sense! I watched this video (1&2) about 50 times. Took me two days to remove and install the rebuilt rack because of the two power steering line fittings. my right arm is torn up from the elbow all the way down to my hands. Horrible job! On our 96 Honda Accord, the pressure fitting is 14mm and the return line fitting is 17mm. I have 3 different open end/box end wrenches in different shapes for each size(14mm & 17mm) and ended up using all of them to undo these fittings! I had to remove the bracket that holds the gas petal cable and a smog tube bracket from the firewall to clear the path to these fittings! I ended up using a small diameter long pipe and a 3 lb. sledge to break the fittings loose!! I could not get a flare wrench on the return line fitting. The Honda's lower sheet metal is right up against the fitting, and flare wrenches are extra thick! I was lucky and actually brock this loose with a 17mm open end wrench! (Extremely lucky!!) I made a couple of major mistakes in my installation efforts!! I'm not going to knock the author of this video, It has to be hard to film, explain, and do all the work to make this! He made one major error that caused me to make the same error! When he removes the red plugs from the new Rack and pinion and installs them on the rack & pinion he's returning. Do you see the O-Ring on the red Plug?!! Two of these come with the rebuilt rack and pinion and are supposed to slip over the pressure line fitting and the return line fitting before spending hours trying to screw them into the new rack!! Needless to say, I have a really bad power steering fluid leak from these fittings!, and this problem was presented to me by the alignment shop! First thing they asked was if I installed the O-Rings that came with the new Rack!! The Next mistake I made was with the steering coupler! On an old Corvette or Mustang, the steering wheel alignment can be adjusted anywhere within the 360 degree range. On this 96 Accord, it only goes on one way! Needless to say I had the upper misaligned and cross threaded it and snapped the bold head right off! According to the alignment shop, they couldn't do an alignment without this coupler fitted in the exact position! I found another coupler for $35.00 on EBAY. The 96 Honda Accord does not have the little yellow alignment method that is shown in this video. Despite the problems I had, I rate this video really high. If not for the two fittings, this would be an hour and a half job!! Why Honda didn't mount these fitting locations in a position on the rack that is actually where you can get to it, is beyond me! Everything this guy did, I did, lowering the exhaust, etc.... Really a great video!
If the lines refuse to break loose I usually just cut them off flush with the flare nuts and replace them. The two lines going to the rack (pressure and return) are flare fittings and shouldn't require any type of o-ring to seal IF they're in good shape. Just to be sure I double checked the Honda factory parts diagrams and they don't list an o-ring for the return or pressure lines on the flare fitting side. That being said if the mating surfaces are less than perfect and it's leaking I suppose you could use an o-ring of the right diameter inside the bell of the double flare but it's not good practice. I'd rather just replace the offending hose since they're pretty cheap. Flare fittings (just like the ones used on brake lines) are a metal to metal seal. I always inspect them before reinstalling them both the lines and the other mating surface inside the rack (can't remember if I mentioned that) if the flare mating surface is pitted or scored the lines go in the trash. If the rack surface is pitted or scored it gets returned. Don't be surprised if you get a rebuilt part and it leaks that's just how it goes sometimes. I find either the rebuilt part works fine or you find there's something wrong with it. Here's a fine example I ordered a set of rebuilt rear disc calipers for a buddies Honda (his old one had seized pistons which prevented me from turning them back in to replace the pads) these calipers are complicated beats with the parking brake integrated into them to push the piston out. I install them bleed the lines everything goes smooth and no leaks. A week later he calls me and says that his brake light is on I check it out and the fluid is low in the master cylinder. I check the rear wheels and one of them is wet with brake fluid. So I try to find the source of the leak expecting a leaking piston but it's bone dry there. So I scratch my head checking the metal lines (thinking one had rusted through) also all dry and fine. So I look closer and finally find it. It had a VERY small leak around the shaft that goes into the caliper to engage the parking brake. You could only find it by applying the brake (I used a large screwdriver wedged on the seat) and pulling back the dust boot around the shaft you could see it weeping fluid ever so slightly. It was concealed for a week because there is a metal cover around the brake cable mechanism that acted as a reservoir keeping the fluid off the wheel and ground until it overflowed and splashed out. So I returned the part under warranty and the replacement worked fine.
Just picked up a 95 accord from my brother and it has a bad steering rack (among other problems lol already replaced a fuel pressure regulator and put a short ram intake filter on it now I need to do the steering rack, replace every fuse in the car and possibly a intake manifold gasket but she's a 600$ and factory 5 speed car so I'm happy)
One tip, don't make my mistake. After the steering wheel is detached, don't give it a spin for fun. Broke off the horn wires, duh. Didn't even realize it until the horn no longer worked.
Can i see a video of honda prelude? I had took it put nd i took off both inner tie rod ends. How do i install it without taking off inner tie rod ends?
@@Bushougoma just wanted to say thank you very much for posting this video for im not mechanically inclined i was able to replace my rack and pinion on my 99 accord and let me tell you it was a efn nightmare but thanks to you sir I was able to get it done, took 2 days lol but got it done again really appreciate people like yourself that take time to show people like me how to get it done the right way!!
Well done! Thanks for the video. the most important and difficult part is just not showed specifically enough: the part of getting two lines off. I found drive flare nut plus a handle ratchet are extremly helpful to remove them, since flare nut gives you the angle and long rachet gives you the power.
I agree, got everything off except for those two oil lines 14mm and 16mm on 98 Odyssey. Thinking about purchasing a set of crowfoot socket to see if that helps.
Eric how you doing let me ask you a question I got it Honda Odyssey 1995 and I need to change the rack and pinion but I would like to know if the Honda Accord rack and pinion work for it
Wow! Such a detailed video under highly catastrophic conditions! Great job! I plan on doing same thing and more to my 1996 honda accord and 2007 Lexus GX 470. Could you suggest reliable after market parts provider(s)? Many thanks!
If the knuckle and hammer trick does not work on the TieRod ends - use a removal tool - they work just great. Also on the tie rod - just loosen the arm side and let the nut stay put. Then you can use a caliber to measure the distance of how far down from end of shaft the nut is. On new Tie Rod End you can then position nut same distance from end. Being as parts are new and different manufacture - you might be off a tad, then again you might be spot on . You turned the steering wheel all the way to the left AFTER you removed the steering knuckle from the rack 20:10 - 20:40 - your rack must be wireless in order for the inner tie rod to move 22:40 :-)
My car is a Frank-in-car! I had to change out the rack and pinion, and the tie rods today..Sore as hell tomorrow, and work, oh joy..Not! LOL... Thanks for the video, it helped!
Have to get this and my main oil pan gasket repaired on a 96 accord. Figure I should get them both done at the same time since the exhaust is in the way for both of them. After watching this video, I'm afraid I'm going to get ripped off. I live in Cali. Any idea how much this plus the gasket/filter/oil change should cost - including labor?
I love my 96 Accord EX, but I got every leak possible except windshield fluid and brakes. I may have to do this job when I get tired of buy power steering fluid every month.
I have a '94 Accord and mine is leaking fluid badly. I filled it with fluid and drove it for 10 minutes and after that it was all gone, I proceeded to put my car on ramps to investigate and saw a solid stream of steering fluid leaking out of the boot on the power steering rack. Thanks for the video while the replacement looks fairly simple it looks tedious I think I'll just take it to a mechanic.
You should get a "T" handle hook, to remove the exhaust insulators, makes it easier ... If I had a lift I could do this, not getting on a creeper and do that with my back. I asked at a garage how much they charge to change out the rack, the guy quoted me of $700 and told me it's all labor. This looks like any tech worth his weight can do this in an hour or two ... I think that quote was crazy
+Philip Daniels I have one and a special pair of pliers that pushes the hangers off too but I never use them probably because I'm too lazy to get them out of my toolbox. I find spraying silicone on them works just as well and makes them easier to reinstall later. The two major hangups in this job are the exhaust bolts and the pressure and return lines if they are rusted tight the job will take considerably longer.
Got the same quote. "male neighbors" said just pay the money. You won't be able to do it. Well this WOMAN is doing this and showing them that "girls" can fix their cars.
I have a 1994 honda civic ex coupe but it has a b18b1 engine. So does it need a regular stock rack n pinion for 94 honda ex? Or is it different since its a different engine? Thanks
If you remove the upper half of the plenum (air intake) this will give your arm way more room and give you alot more leverage to break the flare fittings loose.
To make it easier to access those fittings on top of the rack, do you think it would be possible to disconnect them last? Basically, if the rack's intermediate shaft is disconnected and the rack's mounting fasteners are removed, do you think those lines are flexible enough so that the rack could be dropped down to get to those fitting nuts? I just bought a 97 Accord LX, and it's losing a lot of PS fluid.
The hole in the cross member that the lines pass through is too small to drop the rack any significant degree the engineers really crammed this thing in there. You could drop the cross member to get better access.
Awewsome video as always. Just out of curiosity, how would you know when the rack needs to be replaced? Would the steering completely seize up? Also how often do these fail on these Accords?
Hi again bro.. I just wanna ask what do you call that thing behind the distributor.. ? it's like a triangle .. That thing has oil so i don't know which is leaking .. I followed your steps here.. and it did work good :) thank you for that.. But I see some leak behind the distributor and engine .. and it's infront of the intake manifold
I believe you're referring to the VTEC solenoid. It does have two gaskets that tend to harden and leak oil. I've already posted a video on replacing them. It's not as easy to remove as it looks. Since one of the fasteners holding the valve to the cylinder head is buried which requires removal of the thermostat housing.
My 94 accord is leaking from a rusted line that is on the R & P...not the return or pressure lines..Is there away to repair it without taking the rack out?? How much more room is gained by dropping the rack crossmember...Is dropping the crossmember difficult?? Your videos and skill are awesome...👍
You mean one of the lines from the hydraulic control valve to the cylinder? The pressure and return lines are difficult enough to get off from the top I wouldn't even attempt to get those other two off the valve with the rack still on the vehicle. From memory one line enters the cylinder on the side while the other enters on the top and is blocked by the cross member. Hopefully the one leaking is on the side. The only repair I would attempt is to cut out the rusted section of the line, reflare it, and splice in a new piece of line using a female flare coupling. But in those tight quarters that may not be possible. How is the racks condition otherwise? If the bellows are torn the end seals are not long for this world and you'll soon have another leak. In that case a rebuilt rack would be a better long term solution.
Bushougoma ...yes..pretty sure it's the longest line coming from the gear box...my boots look great..no tears or leaks...it was my mother's car...i inherited after she passed..car only has 80 thousand miles...it's sat most of it's life..lot's of surface rust on everything underneath... I was hoping not to have too take the rack out but I'm going to have too... I don't think the pressure and return lines will loosen easy...lots of surface rust on them...really don't have the money for new pressure line.. question...Do you really have to take out the exhaust mid-pipe?? Would taking off the Inner Tie Rods help in any way with removal or install of the rack?? thanks again for sharing your knowledge,I've never really have worked on a foreign car...
A set of flare nut crowfoot wrenches makes removing the pressure and return lines easier. The mid pipe has to come off or the steering input shaft won't drop down far enough to clear the body. The inner tie rods won't come off without cutting the boot band clamp and chances are high the boots will tear if you attempt to remove them. Either way you'll need an alignment afterwards so just spin the outer tie rods off. The spec for the toe is 0 degrees to 0.16 degrees it doesn't take much for it to be out of spec no matter what you remove. You may also need a ball joint separator to pop the tapers on the tie rods. Sometimes a hammer doesn't work. Just be sure to put a nut on the tie rod stud to prevent thread damage before using the tool.
Thanks for the helpful video. My power steering fluid was low recently and I was told by my mechanic that I need to replace the steering rack boots on my Honda. My question is what is the point of only replacing the boots? If there's a leak, I presume that the whole steering rack must be replaced. At the same time, I understand that replacing the boots is a common repair.
+Gregory Wilcox Correct if the steering rack end seals are leaking a boot replacement won't solve anything and quite often when the boots are torn you'll find fluid inside them because the seals are leaking.
Hey man . I used a line wrench 14mm but the pressure line bolt is rounding off. I also used PB blaster and soaked for 24 hrs. Do you know how to replace the pressure line ? Thanks
It's not too bad to replace I have a replacement video but I haven't got to editing it yet. I'm working hard to clear up the backlog of videos I have. Remove the two bolts that hold one end of the hose to the top of the power steering pump. There's another clamp secured by one bolt at the right rear of the engine. Then there's a clamp that's not easily visible on top of the rear cross member but you can feel for it. Disconnect the 2 wire connector from the pressure switch. After that you can just maneuver the line out. Swap the old pressure switch onto the new line and reinstall. The pressure switch is threaded onto a fitting on the pressure line and is sealed by an o-ring you can only get from the dealer. If you choose to reuse the old one check the joint for leaks after refilling and bleeding the system. Most aftermarket lines will have the o-ring between the line and the pump.
SeverdSeouL They're mostly replaced due to fluid leaks a common leak point is the rack end seals which causes fluid to damage and escape from the inner tie rod boots. A leaking end seal was the reason for replacing this rack. There's also mechanical damage but that's usually the result of driver error hitting a curb at speed, a pothole, etc. I'll be releasing a short video on locating power steering system leaks in a bit.
Can't wait to see it, thanks for the information. Just wondering, but do you personally own this vehicle? If so, how do you view the reliability and build quality of it compared to other models of Accords or similar? Thanks.
The 90s Accords are decent vehicles and are pretty easy to work on with basic tools. You can reach 250 - 300 k on the engines easily with routine maintenance. I don't really have anything against the newer models. But I'd steer clear of early 2000s Honda's with a V6 engine. The transmissions have a very high failure rate.
SeverdSeouL Sorry TH-cam was glitching out and not allowing me to reply to your other comment. It sounds like the vehicle is running off base idle alone. There are 3 ways for air to bypass the throttle plate when it's closed on these vehicles. 1. The Idle Air Adjusting Screw Passage (Sets The Base Idle) 2. The Idle Air Valve Passage (Controlled By PCM) 3. The Fast Idle Valve Passage(Only Open When Engines Cold) The fast idle valve is completely mechanical and has no electrical components. When the engine is cold extra air is bypassed around the throttle plate by the fast idle valve to keep the RPM high. As engine coolant and the engine warms up a wax pellet inside it expands closing off this valve and the extra air. At which point air can only bypass the throttle via the idle air adjusting screw and the idle air control valve. The idle air adjusting screw passage is fixed (by the position of the screw) while the IAC passage is controlled electronically by the PCM. Assuming no one messed with the idle speed adjustment screw. That only leaves an issue with the IAC. 550 RPM +- 50 RPM is the factory setting for the idle air screw. This is set with the idle air valve closed. So if you're getting this RPM odds are the IAC is stuck closed or defective. Its located on the back of the intake manifold near the top. It's has a round cylinder on it and a 2 pin electrical connector and 2 small coolant hoses connecting to it. The reason RPM is ok when cold is because the fast idle valve is supplying bypassing additional air until the engine warms up. Try cleaning the valve first.
Thanks for the detailed response, much appreciated. I initially thought it was the IAC, so I have already taken it off and cleaned it with TB cleaner, it was dirty, but when I re installed and bled the system, it didn't make any difference. I also tried another one from the salvage yard with no luck. I also followed the service manual for resetting the base idle, adjusted the fast idle valve, checked for misfires, replaced the fuel filter (thanks to your video) again with no improvement. It seems to get worse when the cooling fans kick in, the whole car literally shutters when they activate, and the idle dips to 400RPM. Do you happen to have any other ideas as to what it could be?
When was the last time the plugs, cap, rotor, and wires were changed? They're maintenance items so if they're old I recommend replacing them. It sounds like the idle drops when an electrical load is put on the engine. Try turning these on the defroster, A/C, headlights and high beams. Do any of these cause the engine RPM to drop? Perform this test with the engine hot and cold. Does the engine handle it fine when cold and not when warm? When you pull the connector from the IAC is there an idle drop when the engine is warmed up? There should be. If not the PCM may not be controlling the valve at all. At rest with no control it's fully closed. One wire should have battery voltage on it and the ground should be duty cycle controlled by the PCM.
I didn't know you had to remove the entire rack from the car, I was under the impression it could be rebuilt in the car, lot's of work! ... I noticed you should use more light, might make it a little bit easier. Tough job, anything you can do to make it easier, right? ...
+Bushougoma There's some all you need is a tube wrench. It looks like a big candle snuffer, where the socket is on the end, reach in and undo the tie rod ends, undo the bolts up top or down the bottom, disconnect the hoses up top, pull it out. But cars have become a little more complex since then. I wish they'd stop building stuff that you can't work on, they could make them easy to work on, they don't want us to fix them ourselves any more, like everything else they want us to toss 'em and buy a new one when they break ... I'm not sure if I'm throwing good money after bad now that I can get a few parts, it needs a bunch ...
phildan9 As vehicles become increasingly more fuel efficient the natural outcome is more compact designs and lighter smaller parts (especially in the engine compartment). The unfortunate side effect is a cramped space to work in. I guess it's all about what you were brought up with if you were brought up working on carbureted vehicles with roomy engine compartments I can see how it could be difficult to get used to. You can still rebuild some parts (if parts are available) but nowadays it's just more cost effective in many cases to buy a new or remanufactured part with a warranty. The trend is definitely toward making everything more modular if a part breaks replace it instead of repairing it.
So I did everything but I believe the return lines of in and out is leaking and I thought I have put the seals when I tighten them up and steering fluid is leaking from there, do i need to replace the seals or is it a bad remanufactured rack and pinion? And I hope its jus the seals because it steers great left and right and no leaks on the pump but just the lines that connect to the rack and pinion so so do you think I may have put the seals wrong on the return in and out lines and if so how much does a pro mechanic can replace them because it is a pain to get your hand there and unscrew them please I desperately need help
The pressure and return lines that go into the rack are flare fittings they are metal to metal seals if you put o-rings on them that will cause them to leak.
@@Bushougoma ok I'll give it a shot when I can and give update and why does it come with a seal o ring with the pressure hose when I purchase it, is it for something else or just an ring for in case ? Because it came with it when I'd purchase it and that was odd for me so thAt's why I put it but again I'll take them off and let you know fingers crossed that it doesn't leak because I bought like 4 bottles so far lol haha
Most steering racks come with screw in plastic plugs with o-rings on them to keep fluid from leaking out inside the box. There is only one o-ring on the pressure hose and that's where it bolts to the top of the power steering pump.
By the way left and right is always from the operators position. Drivers side is Left because where the driver is sitting Left side will always be the drivers left. Works for boats, port aka Left side, planes, trains etc..
Bousho, I'm rockin' a 97 accord (F22B2). Where do you recommend I order the rack from? A guy in town from NAPA said he'd hook me up with for $189, no core charge (honor system). I need to buy lots of diapers, so every $ counts. I see these all over the internet, but I'd love to hear your recommendation.
That sounds like a fair price. Ordering online isn't really practical considering most companies would expect you to pay shipping to send the core back. Add to that the original shipping charge to get the rack to you and it ends up costing more than buying locally in most cases.
You're a pretty handy guy... I'm just curious why not just replace the inner seals in the rack & pinion instead of replacing the rack with a new/remanufactured one?
There's more to rebuilding a rack than just replacing a few seals to do it right the entire rack must be disassembled, cleaned, and inspected. Then ALL of the seals in the cylinders and the control valve must be replaced. Pitting in the cylinders if present will tear up the new seals and cause a repeat failure which is why remanufacturers usually bore out the cylinders and insert sleeves to restore the original inner diameter and finish. Something you can't do without specialized equipment. Not to mention the time and labor to remove the rack, reseal it, and reinstall it and repeat the process if something leaks once you've bolted it back up. The remanufacturer also offers a warranty on the rack so if there is an issue you're covered. Bottom line too much risk and not much reward in my opinion.
I guess it isnt possible to loosen the hose off pump and pull the high pressure hose out along with rack from bottom? if not, what about using a flared crow's foot?
I suppose with the right length extension you may be able to get a crow foot on there from the top. But if you're having that much trouble getting the pressure line off I'd just drop the cross member the rack is bolted to. That will give you better access.
Wish the text would scroll 1 line, it blocks the good camera footage. just need a little more light. Mechanic was very good! I wish he could do mine. 94 Honda Accord 4 door model LX.
Place a metal bar on the flare nut wrench from underneath at the location shown in the video and hit it with a mini sledge. Just replaced one about a month ago and worked like a charm for getting the pressure line cracked loose. If it rounds off even with a flare nut wrench you'll have to drop the entire cross member and cut the lines off.
While these Hondas very closely the same in design, the instructions on this video may not be for a 94. Four months later after my first attempt, I found this video and so I gave it another shot at removing my rack and pinion from my 94 and I just can't access the pressure and return lines from either the top or the bottom (too many darn wires just blocking everything from the top). I can't just put in my hand from the top just like you do in this video to reach the pressure and return lines. There is no space at all to turn the wrench from either the top or bottom. :( :( :(
Other than some minor body and trim modifications throughout the years the 94-97 Accords are identical. Now if you really have a 93 then that's different they use a rack with a longer input shaft. If access to the lines is too difficult drop the cross member it's mounted on for some extra clearance.
Quick question, went to get my oil changed and they said that the rack and pinion is busted. Do you recommend me replacing the whole steering rack or just the bellows. Also if I do replace bellows do I have to still remove the rack completely? (don't have a jack to lift my car yet, will get one end of the month) Never had steering issues turns like new so I hope I dont need a whole new rack.
If steering fluid is leaking out of the bellows then yes the rack is bad and a rebuilt unit is the only cost effective option expect to pay around $150 after the refundable core charge (you return the old part to the store). Plus an alignment afterwards. If there is no sign of fluid in the bellows you could just replace them often though the reason they fail is because fluid has accumulated inside them. They are just to keep dust, dirt, and road grit off of the machined piston and out of the rack end seals they aren't designed to hold back fluid. You don't need to remove the rack to replace the bellows but you do need to remove the outer tie rods from the knuckle and spin them off. If you mark where the outer tie rod is on the threaded rack shaft you MAY be able to avoid an alignment but I wouldn't bet a set of tires on it.
Very helpful. Thank you! I am looking to do this. My car is 2001 Honda Accord. There is another video (with a red 2001 Honda Acord 2.3 engine size, like this video) that shows a great job on how to do this as well. Here is that video for those with a 2001 Honda Accord 4-cylinder 2.3 engine size. th-cam.com/video/uOS6GPqmzjg/w-d-xo.html Also, I really like this video that he didn't use power tool, all in his smartness of manual tools to get really tight bolts out.
Not interested being saved, buddy. Now, can you all move on? Trouble isn't my soul, its crazy people like you who doesn't know the difference between my life and it's none of your fucking business. By the way, its one of the best videos I seen on replacing rack and pinion. Good job on replacing input dust shaft seal. Most people don't replacing any seal or rack bushings for that matter. Put some thought behind it.
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I'm a backyard Mechanic with heavy experience with Vintage Mustangs and Vintage Corvettes. My Son delivers Pizza for Domino's at night while attending the local University. He's basically driven the Honda into the ground! After he damaged my Crew Cab delivering Pizza, I decided that a new Honda was out of the question for him, and fixing the old Honda made more sense! I watched this video (1&2) about 50 times. Took me two days to remove and install the rebuilt rack because of the two power steering line fittings. my right arm is torn up from the elbow all the way down to my hands. Horrible job! On our 96 Honda Accord, the pressure fitting is 14mm and the return line fitting is 17mm. I have 3 different open end/box end wrenches in different shapes for each size(14mm & 17mm) and ended up using all of them to undo these fittings! I had to remove the bracket that holds the gas petal cable and a smog tube bracket from the firewall to clear the path to these fittings! I ended up using a small diameter long pipe and a 3 lb. sledge to break the fittings loose!! I could not get a flare wrench on the return line fitting. The Honda's lower sheet metal is right up against the fitting, and flare wrenches are extra thick! I was lucky and actually brock this loose with a 17mm open end wrench! (Extremely lucky!!)
I made a couple of major mistakes in my installation efforts!! I'm not going to knock the author of this video, It has to be hard to film, explain, and do all the work to make this! He made one major error that caused me to make the same error! When he removes the red plugs from the new Rack and pinion and installs them on the rack & pinion he's returning. Do you see the O-Ring on the red Plug?!! Two of these come with the rebuilt rack and pinion and are supposed to slip over the pressure line fitting and the return line fitting before spending hours trying to screw them into the new rack!! Needless to say, I have a really bad power steering fluid leak from these fittings!, and this problem was presented to me by the alignment shop! First thing they asked was if I installed the O-Rings that came with the new Rack!!
The Next mistake I made was with the steering coupler! On an old Corvette or Mustang, the steering wheel alignment can be adjusted anywhere within the 360 degree range. On this 96 Accord, it only goes on one way! Needless to say I had the upper misaligned and cross threaded it and snapped the bold head right off! According to the alignment shop, they couldn't do an alignment without this coupler fitted in the exact position! I found another coupler for $35.00 on EBAY. The 96 Honda Accord does not have the little yellow alignment method that is shown in this video.
Despite the problems I had, I rate this video really high. If not for the two fittings, this would be an hour and a half job!! Why Honda didn't mount these fitting locations in a position on the rack that is actually where you can get to it, is beyond me! Everything this guy did, I did, lowering the exhaust, etc.... Really a great video!
If the lines refuse to break loose I usually just cut them off flush with the flare nuts and replace them. The two lines going to the rack (pressure and return) are flare fittings and shouldn't require any type of o-ring to seal IF they're in good shape. Just to be sure I double checked the Honda factory parts diagrams and they don't list an o-ring for the return or pressure lines on the flare fitting side.
That being said if the mating surfaces are less than perfect and it's leaking I suppose you could use an o-ring of the right diameter inside the bell of the double flare but it's not good practice. I'd rather just replace the offending hose since they're pretty cheap.
Flare fittings (just like the ones used on brake lines) are a metal to metal seal. I always inspect them before reinstalling them both the lines and the other mating surface inside the rack (can't remember if I mentioned that) if the flare mating surface is pitted or scored the lines go in the trash. If the rack surface is pitted or scored it gets returned. Don't be surprised if you get a rebuilt part and it leaks that's just how it goes sometimes. I find either the rebuilt part works fine or you find there's something wrong with it.
Here's a fine example I ordered a set of rebuilt rear disc calipers for a buddies Honda (his old one had seized pistons which prevented me from turning them back in to replace the pads) these calipers are complicated beats with the parking brake integrated into them to push the piston out. I install them bleed the lines everything goes smooth and no leaks. A week later he calls me and says that his brake light is on I check it out and the fluid is low in the master cylinder. I check the rear wheels and one of them is wet with brake fluid. So I try to find the source of the leak expecting a leaking piston but it's bone dry there. So I scratch my head checking the metal lines (thinking one had rusted through) also all dry and fine.
So I look closer and finally find it. It had a VERY small leak around the shaft that goes into the caliper to engage the parking brake. You could only find it by applying the brake (I used a large screwdriver wedged on the seat) and pulling back the dust boot around the shaft you could see it weeping fluid ever so slightly. It was concealed for a week because there is a metal cover around the brake cable mechanism that acted as a reservoir keeping the fluid off the wheel and ground until it overflowed and splashed out. So I returned the part under warranty and the replacement worked fine.
Just picked up a 95 accord from my brother and it has a bad steering rack (among other problems lol already replaced a fuel pressure regulator and put a short ram intake filter on it now I need to do the steering rack, replace every fuse in the car and possibly a intake manifold gasket but she's a 600$ and factory 5 speed car so I'm happy)
Appreciate your videos. You are very helpful. Just finished the steering rack and you made it all possible. Great job!
Excellent DIY video. Among the best I've watched for auto repair.
One tip, don't make my mistake. After the steering wheel is detached, don't give it a spin for fun. Broke off the horn wires, duh. Didn't even realize it until the horn no longer worked.
I won't say I wasn't tempted myself.
Your mistake is more valuable for others to learn than 100 videos made by professionals with a lot of blah-blah-blah!
And you messed up the clock spring
Can i see a video of honda prelude? I had took it put nd i took off both inner tie rod ends. How do i install it without taking off inner tie rod ends?
@@Bushougoma just wanted to say thank you very much for posting this video for im not mechanically inclined i was able to replace my rack and pinion on my 99 accord and let me tell you it was a efn nightmare but thanks to you sir I was able to get it done, took 2 days lol but got it done again really appreciate people like yourself that take time to show people like me how to get it done the right way!!
Well done! Thanks for the video. the most important and difficult part is just not showed specifically enough: the part of getting two lines off. I found drive flare nut plus a handle ratchet are extremly helpful to remove them, since flare nut gives you the angle and long rachet gives you the power.
Those lines to the rack can be a real nightmare to remove. Excellent video! Part 2! :D
I agree, got everything off except for those two oil lines 14mm and 16mm on 98 Odyssey. Thinking about purchasing a set of crowfoot socket to see if that helps.
Eric how you doing let me ask you a question I got it Honda Odyssey 1995 and I need to change the rack and pinion but I would like to know if the Honda Accord rack and pinion work for it
Great Video, hopefully one day you can show us how to replace those captured rotors, thanks.
really good video man, your helping lots of people with this including me. keep up the good work
Wow! Such a detailed video under highly catastrophic conditions! Great job! I plan on doing same thing and more to my 1996 honda accord and 2007 Lexus GX 470. Could you suggest reliable after market parts provider(s)? Many thanks!
If the knuckle and hammer trick does not work on the TieRod ends - use a removal tool - they work just great. Also on the tie rod - just loosen the arm side and let the nut stay put. Then you can use a caliber to measure the distance of how far down from end of shaft the nut is. On new Tie Rod End you can then position nut same distance from end. Being as parts are new and different manufacture - you might be off a tad, then again you might be spot on .
You turned the steering wheel all the way to the left AFTER you removed the steering knuckle from the rack 20:10 - 20:40 - your rack must be wireless in order for the inner tie rod to move 22:40 :-)
This is an excellent detail how you do something, perfect 👍
You my friend are one hell of a guy! Thanks for the info. Your videos are perfect
Good job. Greetings from Sinaloa Mexico
it is a very difficult work but you did it great.
How the fuck are videos almost 10 years ago better then today's video
Great Vid dude. Clear picture very informative, two thumbs up here!
My car is a Frank-in-car! I had to change out the rack and pinion, and the tie rods today..Sore as hell tomorrow, and work, oh joy..Not! LOL... Thanks for the video, it helped!
Have to get this and my main oil pan gasket repaired on a 96 accord. Figure I should get them both done at the same time since the exhaust is in the way for both of them. After watching this video, I'm afraid I'm going to get ripped off. I live in Cali. Any idea how much this plus the gasket/filter/oil change should cost - including labor?
I love my 96 Accord EX, but I got every leak possible except windshield fluid and brakes. I may have to do this job when I get tired of buy power steering fluid every month.
I have a '94 Accord and mine is leaking fluid badly. I filled it with fluid and drove it for 10 minutes and after that it was all gone, I proceeded to put my car on ramps to investigate and saw a solid stream of steering fluid leaking out of the boot on the power steering rack. Thanks for the video while the replacement looks fairly simple it looks tedious I think I'll just take it to a mechanic.
Thank you. this was huge helpful
Houston on Feb/14/2020
Thank you for video is useful and helps me more knowledge.
You had done something good for everyone.
👍👍👍👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
You should get a "T" handle hook, to remove the exhaust insulators, makes it easier ... If I had a lift I could do this, not getting on a creeper and do that with my back. I asked at a garage how much they charge to change out the rack, the guy quoted me of $700 and told me it's all labor. This looks like any tech worth his weight can do this in an hour or two ... I think that quote was crazy
+Philip Daniels I have one and a special pair of pliers that pushes the hangers off too but I never use them probably because I'm too lazy to get them out of my toolbox. I find spraying silicone on them works just as well and makes them easier to reinstall later.
The two major hangups in this job are the exhaust bolts and the pressure and return lines if they are rusted tight the job will take considerably longer.
Got the same quote. "male neighbors" said just pay the money. You won't be able to do it. Well this WOMAN is doing this and showing them that "girls" can fix their cars.
WAs quoted $400 including the rack and pinion. So, $200 labor. THink that is great deal after watching this video.
Excellent video.
Excellent video! Thanks for the help.
I have a 1994 honda civic ex coupe but it has a b18b1 engine. So does it need a regular stock rack n pinion for 94 honda ex? Or is it different since its a different engine? Thanks
Is it necessary to install an in-line filter on the power steering line like Auto zone suggests?
what size is the flare nut wrench your using?
14mm flare nut closest to the engine, 17mm closest to the firewall. Pain in the butt to get out! Arm is scared from trying to get my arm in their.
If you remove the upper half of the plenum (air intake) this will give your arm way more room and give you alot more leverage to break the flare fittings loose.
Hey how long did it take to take it of and reinstall new rack pinion
Good job. I just did one of these on my 95 odyssey
Do you have a video of just replacing the power steering bellows?
To make it easier to access those fittings on top of the rack, do you think it would be possible to disconnect them last? Basically, if the rack's intermediate shaft is disconnected and the rack's mounting fasteners are removed, do you think those lines are flexible enough so that the rack could be dropped down to get to those fitting nuts? I just bought a 97 Accord LX, and it's losing a lot of PS fluid.
The hole in the cross member that the lines pass through is too small to drop the rack any significant degree the engineers really crammed this thing in there. You could drop the cross member to get better access.
Awewsome video as always. Just out of curiosity, how would you know when the rack needs to be replaced? Would the steering completely seize up? Also how often do these fail on these Accords?
Im guessing when it stsrts leaking pretty bad. Mine started too and ive put it off for a few months but its getting worse
If you have the knuckles removed, is there enough room to pull the rack out through the side of the car?
Very nice job, well explained..but still very hard to do it :)
Btw, is it worth to repair it? meaning change the seal? Thanks
If the bores are scored you'd just be wasting your time. So in my opinion a rebuilt rack is the best option.
Owh..thanks for your info.. :)
Just wondering why you had to take everything off both sides? I have a 93 Honda accord will this be about the same for it?
Very hard job ! To replace rack opinio*
What do you have to take apart to drop the cross member the rack is mounted to
Does clocking the racket help a mechanic installed a racket and pinon both out tie rods clocked all the way out.
Im going to replace my rack tomorrow
Hi again bro.. I just wanna ask what do you call that thing behind the distributor.. ? it's like a triangle .. That thing has oil so i don't know which is leaking .. I followed your steps here.. and it did work good :) thank you for that.. But I see some leak behind the distributor and engine .. and it's infront of the intake manifold
I believe you're referring to the VTEC solenoid.
It does have two gaskets that tend to harden and leak oil. I've already posted a video on replacing them.
It's not as easy to remove as it looks. Since one of the fasteners holding the valve to the cylinder head is buried which requires removal of the thermostat housing.
@Bushougoma Can you send hose part that you cut and have to replace (Hose/Line)
what is the name brand of steering rack that you replaced it with?
My 94 accord is leaking from a rusted line that is on the R & P...not the return or pressure lines..Is there away to repair it without taking the rack out??
How much more room is gained by dropping the rack crossmember...Is dropping the crossmember difficult??
Your videos and skill are awesome...👍
You mean one of the lines from the hydraulic control valve to the cylinder?
The pressure and return lines are difficult enough to get off from the top I wouldn't even attempt to get those other two off the valve with the rack still on the vehicle. From memory one line enters the cylinder on the side while the other enters on the top and is blocked by the cross member. Hopefully the one leaking is on the side.
The only repair I would attempt is to cut out the rusted section of the line, reflare it, and splice in a new piece of line using a female flare coupling. But in those tight quarters that may not be possible.
How is the racks condition otherwise? If the bellows are torn the end seals are not long for this world and you'll soon have another leak. In that case a rebuilt rack would be a better long term solution.
Bushougoma ...yes..pretty sure it's the longest line coming from the gear box...my boots look great..no tears or leaks...it was my mother's car...i inherited after she passed..car only has 80 thousand miles...it's sat most of it's life..lot's of surface rust on everything underneath...
I was hoping not to have too take the rack out but I'm going to have too...
I don't think the pressure and return lines will loosen easy...lots of surface rust on them...really don't have the money for new pressure line..
question...Do you really have to take out the exhaust mid-pipe??
Would taking off the Inner Tie Rods help in any way with removal or install of the rack??
thanks again for sharing your knowledge,I've never really have worked on a foreign car...
A set of flare nut crowfoot wrenches makes removing the pressure and return lines easier. The mid pipe has to come off or the steering input shaft won't drop down far enough to clear the body.
The inner tie rods won't come off without cutting the boot band clamp and chances are high the boots will tear if you attempt to remove them.
Either way you'll need an alignment afterwards so just spin the outer tie rods off. The spec for the toe is 0 degrees to 0.16 degrees it doesn't take much for it to be out of spec no matter what you remove. You may also need a ball joint separator to pop the tapers on the tie rods. Sometimes a hammer doesn't work. Just be sure to put a nut on the tie rod stud to prevent thread damage before using the tool.
Thanks for the helpful video. My power steering fluid was low recently and I was told by my mechanic that I need to replace the steering rack boots on my Honda. My question is what is the point of only replacing the boots? If there's a leak, I presume that the whole steering rack must be replaced. At the same time, I understand that replacing the boots is a common repair.
+Gregory Wilcox Correct if the steering rack end seals are leaking a boot replacement won't solve anything and quite often when the boots are torn you'll find fluid inside them because the seals are leaking.
I have a 93 honda are they the same as this year for removal
Hey man . I used a line wrench 14mm but the pressure line bolt is rounding off. I also used PB blaster and soaked for 24 hrs. Do you know how to replace the pressure line ? Thanks
It's not too bad to replace I have a replacement video but I haven't got to editing it yet. I'm working hard to clear up the backlog of videos I have.
Remove the two bolts that hold one end of the hose to the top of the power steering pump.
There's another clamp secured by one bolt at the right rear of the engine. Then there's a clamp that's not easily visible on top of the rear cross member but you can feel for it.
Disconnect the 2 wire connector from the pressure switch.
After that you can just maneuver the line out. Swap the old pressure switch onto the new line and reinstall.
The pressure switch is threaded onto a fitting on the pressure line and is sealed by an o-ring you can only get from the dealer. If you choose to reuse the old one check the joint for leaks after refilling and bleeding the system.
Most aftermarket lines will have the o-ring between the line and the pump.
I have a 99 Accord i was wondering if this video could help me replace my rack and pinion ?
Carlos Guerrero The process will be similar.
so can this video guide me to replace my rack ? i havent been able to find a video for my car
A perfect video🙃
Do you know if the backseat cushion comes out of the 97 Honda Accord? I'd like to be able to lay my back down flat.
buy an accord station wagon
Will this work on a 97 Acura CL with a 3.0L?
Did you change one side or both?
Awesome!!! Everey step looked awesome noce video really helpfuul
SeverdSeouL They're mostly replaced due to fluid leaks a common leak point is the rack end seals which causes fluid to damage and escape from the inner tie rod boots. A leaking end seal was the reason for replacing this rack.
There's also mechanical damage but that's usually the result of driver error hitting a curb at speed, a pothole, etc.
I'll be releasing a short video on locating power steering system leaks in a bit.
Can't wait to see it, thanks for the information. Just wondering, but do you personally own this vehicle? If so, how do you view the reliability and build quality of it compared to other models of Accords or similar? Thanks.
The 90s Accords are decent vehicles and are pretty easy to work on with basic tools.
You can reach 250 - 300 k on the engines easily with routine maintenance.
I don't really have anything against the newer models. But I'd steer clear of early 2000s Honda's with a V6 engine. The transmissions have a very high failure rate.
SeverdSeouL
Sorry TH-cam was glitching out and not allowing me to reply to your other comment.
It sounds like the vehicle is running off base idle alone.
There are 3 ways for air to bypass the throttle plate when it's closed on these vehicles.
1. The Idle Air Adjusting Screw Passage (Sets The Base Idle)
2. The Idle Air Valve Passage (Controlled By PCM)
3. The Fast Idle Valve Passage(Only Open When Engines Cold)
The fast idle valve is completely mechanical and has no electrical components.
When the engine is cold extra air is bypassed around the throttle plate by the fast idle valve to keep the RPM high. As engine coolant and the engine warms up a wax pellet inside it expands closing off this valve and the extra air.
At which point air can only bypass the throttle via the idle air adjusting screw and the idle air control valve. The idle air adjusting screw passage is fixed (by the position of the screw) while the IAC passage is controlled electronically by the PCM. Assuming no one messed with the idle speed adjustment screw. That only leaves an issue with the IAC.
550 RPM +- 50 RPM is the factory setting for the idle air screw. This is set with the idle air valve closed.
So if you're getting this RPM odds are the IAC is stuck closed or defective. Its located on the back of the intake manifold near the top. It's has a round cylinder on it and a 2 pin electrical connector and 2 small coolant hoses connecting to it.
The reason RPM is ok when cold is because the fast idle valve is supplying bypassing additional air until the engine warms up.
Try cleaning the valve first.
Thanks for the detailed response, much appreciated. I initially thought it was the IAC, so I have already taken it off and cleaned it with TB cleaner, it was dirty, but when I re installed and bled the system, it didn't make any difference. I also tried another one from the salvage yard with no luck.
I also followed the service manual for resetting the base idle, adjusted the fast idle valve, checked for misfires, replaced the fuel filter (thanks to your video) again with no improvement. It seems to get worse when the cooling fans kick in, the whole car literally shutters when they activate, and the idle dips to 400RPM.
Do you happen to have any other ideas as to what it could be?
When was the last time the plugs, cap, rotor, and wires were changed? They're maintenance items so if they're old I recommend replacing them.
It sounds like the idle drops when an electrical load is put on the engine. Try turning these on the defroster, A/C, headlights and high beams. Do any of these cause the engine RPM to drop? Perform this test with the engine hot and cold. Does the engine handle it fine when cold and not when warm?
When you pull the connector from the IAC is there an idle drop when the engine is warmed up? There should be. If not the PCM may not be controlling the valve at all. At rest with no control it's fully closed.
One wire should have battery voltage on it and the ground should be duty cycle controlled by the PCM.
Please help I need to buy a new seal for the new rack (the one that goes on and over the input shaft but I can’t find it anywhere
I didn't know you had to remove the entire rack from the car, I was under the impression it could be rebuilt in the car, lot's of work! ... I noticed you should use more light, might make it a little bit easier. Tough job, anything you can do to make it easier, right? ...
+phildan9 This vehicle is actually pretty easy compared to most rack replacements it could be much worse.
+Bushougoma There's some all you need is a tube wrench. It looks like a big candle snuffer, where the socket is on the end, reach in and undo the tie rod ends, undo the bolts up top or down the bottom, disconnect the hoses up top, pull it out. But cars have become a little more complex since then. I wish they'd stop building stuff that you can't work on, they could make them easy to work on, they don't want us to fix them ourselves any more, like everything else they want us to toss 'em and buy a new one when they break ... I'm not sure if I'm throwing good money after bad now that I can get a few parts, it needs a bunch ...
phildan9
As vehicles become increasingly more fuel efficient the natural outcome is more compact designs and lighter smaller parts (especially in the engine compartment).
The unfortunate side effect is a cramped space to work in.
I guess it's all about what you were brought up with if you were brought up working on carbureted vehicles with roomy engine compartments I can see how it could be difficult to get used to.
You can still rebuild some parts (if parts are available) but nowadays it's just more cost effective in many cases to buy a new or remanufactured part with a warranty.
The trend is definitely toward making everything more modular if a part breaks replace it instead of repairing it.
So I did everything but I believe the return lines of in and out is leaking and I thought I have put the seals when I tighten them up and steering fluid is leaking from there, do i need to replace the seals or is it a bad remanufactured rack and pinion? And I hope its jus the seals because it steers great left and right and no leaks on the pump but just the lines that connect to the rack and pinion so so do you think I may have put the seals wrong on the return in and out lines and if so how much does a pro mechanic can replace them because it is a pain to get your hand there and unscrew them please I desperately need help
The pressure and return lines that go into the rack are flare fittings they are metal to metal seals if you put o-rings on them that will cause them to leak.
@@Bushougoma so take the rings out and then rescrew them or get new rings for both of them?
If you put o-rings on the two lines that screw into the steering rack remove them they don't belong there.
@@Bushougoma ok I'll give it a shot when I can and give update and why does it come with a seal o ring with the pressure hose when I purchase it, is it for something else or just an ring for in case ? Because it came with it when I'd purchase it and that was odd for me so thAt's why I put it but again I'll take them off and let you know fingers crossed that it doesn't leak because I bought like 4 bottles so far lol haha
Most steering racks come with screw in plastic plugs with o-rings on them to keep fluid from leaking out inside the box.
There is only one o-ring on the pressure hose and that's where it bolts to the top of the power steering pump.
By the way left and right is always from the operators position. Drivers side is Left because where the driver is sitting Left side will always be the drivers left. Works for boats, port aka Left side, planes, trains etc..
Nice video
Your a bad ass! Wow good job
Bousho, I'm rockin' a 97 accord (F22B2). Where do you recommend I order the rack from? A guy in town from NAPA said he'd hook me up with for $189, no core charge (honor system). I need to buy lots of diapers, so every $ counts. I see these all over the internet, but I'd love to hear your recommendation.
That sounds like a fair price. Ordering online isn't really practical considering most companies would expect you to pay shipping to send the core back.
Add to that the original shipping charge to get the rack to you and it ends up costing more than buying locally in most cases.
Are the same guy that give advices on pool care ?
You're a pretty handy guy... I'm just curious why not just replace the inner seals in the rack & pinion instead of replacing the rack with a new/remanufactured one?
There's more to rebuilding a rack than just replacing a few seals to do it right the entire rack must be disassembled, cleaned, and inspected. Then ALL of the seals in the cylinders and the control valve must be replaced.
Pitting in the cylinders if present will tear up the new seals and cause a repeat failure which is why remanufacturers usually bore out the cylinders and insert sleeves to restore the original inner diameter and finish. Something you can't do without specialized equipment.
Not to mention the time and labor to remove the rack, reseal it, and reinstall it and repeat the process if something leaks once you've bolted it back up.
The remanufacturer also offers a warranty on the rack so if there is an issue you're covered.
Bottom line too much risk and not much reward in my opinion.
ok man. Good to know. I'm a BIG fan of your videos! I learn a lot from you and enjoy your video contributions. :)
What size was the flare line
I guess it isnt possible to loosen the hose off pump and pull the high pressure hose out along with rack from bottom? if not, what about using a flared crow's foot?
I suppose with the right length extension you may be able to get a crow foot on there from the top.
But if you're having that much trouble getting the pressure line off I'd just drop the cross member the rack is bolted to. That will give you better access.
the main high pressure line cant be pulled off with the rack via the bottom? not seeing any hang ups going that way with it
Wish the text would scroll 1 line, it blocks the good camera footage. just need a little more light. Mechanic was very good! I wish he could do mine. 94 Honda Accord 4 door model LX.
I am looking for a Rack and Steering Gear Rack and Pinion Bushings kit for my 97 HONDA ACCORD
Hi. We are doing this for a friend and can’t get the pressure lines loose
Place a metal bar on the flare nut wrench from underneath at the location shown in the video and hit it with a mini sledge. Just replaced one about a month ago and worked like a charm for getting the pressure line cracked loose.
If it rounds off even with a flare nut wrench you'll have to drop the entire cross member and cut the lines off.
yep ill just pay a mechanic.
I just act like mechanics dont exist for i could just go for it
is the car a v4 or v6 model?
good video as always, can u tell my approx. how much a garage would charge u for this particular job, thanks
For me, about 950-1k
While these Hondas very closely the same in design, the instructions on this video may not be for a 94. Four months later after my first attempt, I found this video and so I gave it another shot at removing my rack and pinion from my 94 and I just can't access the pressure and return lines from either the top or the bottom (too many darn wires just blocking everything from the top). I can't just put in my hand from the top just like you do in this video to reach the pressure and return lines. There is no space at all to turn the wrench from either the top or bottom. :( :( :(
Other than some minor body and trim modifications throughout the years the 94-97 Accords are identical. Now if you really have a 93 then that's different they use a rack with a longer input shaft.
If access to the lines is too difficult drop the cross member it's mounted on for some extra clearance.
What size flair nut please?
14mm flare wrench closest to the engine, 17mm closest to the firewall.
Quick question, went to get my oil changed and they said that the rack and pinion is busted. Do you recommend me replacing the whole steering rack or just the bellows. Also if I do replace bellows do I have to still remove the rack completely? (don't have a jack to lift my car yet, will get one end of the month)
Never had steering issues turns like new so I hope I dont need a whole new rack.
If steering fluid is leaking out of the bellows then yes the rack is bad and a rebuilt unit is the only cost effective option expect to pay around $150 after the refundable core charge (you return the old part to the store). Plus an alignment afterwards.
If there is no sign of fluid in the bellows you could just replace them often though the reason they fail is because fluid has accumulated inside them. They are just to keep dust, dirt, and road grit off of the machined piston and out of the rack end seals they aren't designed to hold back fluid.
You don't need to remove the rack to replace the bellows but you do need to remove the outer tie rods from the knuckle and spin them off. If you mark where the outer tie rod is on the threaded rack shaft you MAY be able to avoid an alignment but I wouldn't bet a set of tires on it.
Thanks, will get right to it!
You're an inspiration to Joe Schmo mechanic wanna be like me man!!
Wow buy new stering rack, cool
How much a big job like this would cost at a mechanic shop?
I got quoted $650!
Dillon Herod Mechanic told me in KCMo it's usually 120 bucks but I got him down to 70 dollars.
I was quoted $800 by some crooks in CO
Did the install.
Unfortunately inner tie rods were too long.
Lesson learned.
Stay off ebay.
But D40 spray for remove nuts
are there any sensors on powers steering rack
There's a pressure switch on the pressure line but nothing on the rack.
Man that was excruciating watching you take those exhaust hangers out i wonder if they make a Tool for that? Lol
Lisle makes one and I had it I just didn't want to get it out of my tool box.
Bushougoma Awesome repair video as usual!
Very helpful. Thank you! I am looking to do this. My car is 2001 Honda Accord. There is another video (with a red 2001 Honda Acord 2.3 engine size, like this video) that shows a great job on how to do this as well. Here is that video for those with a 2001 Honda Accord 4-cylinder 2.3 engine size. th-cam.com/video/uOS6GPqmzjg/w-d-xo.html
Also, I really like this video that he didn't use power tool, all in his smartness of manual tools to get really tight bolts out.
Not interested being saved, buddy. Now, can you all move on? Trouble isn't my soul, its crazy people like you who doesn't know the difference between my life and it's none of your fucking business. By the way, its one of the best videos I seen on replacing rack and pinion. Good job on replacing input dust shaft seal. Most people don't replacing any seal or rack bushings for that matter. Put some thought behind it.
HollywoodRoseJack ASE Certified Technician in A4, A5, A1, A8.
Is the is the same process for a 97 manual accord lx? Is the process different for an automatic vs manual?
What size flar wrench is that??