A quick one to help you save those lenses. Cut a sheet of thick acrylic into squares and notch the edges so you can hook elastic bands through the sheet and over the body of the camera. You can use blu-tac on the lens edge to hold the acrylic in place. It'll stop that grinding dust from hitting the lens and is so close to the front element that the camera will just ignore it until it is REALLY dirty.
When I first saw the condition of the rear end, I said NO WAY..! Brother did you show me a thing or two. I'm speechless, I can say it can't get any better than that. Great job... BRAVO..! I was working in Guam and the company gave me a Suzuki Jeep to drive, it was a fun 4 wheeler. Believe it or not it was the color of the reddish orange primer you used. No doors, no windshield, no top, no tailgate, only two seats. 100° so when it rained it felt good. They were illegal in California, 1989 time. I never saw one in California. Impressive you surprised me.
That was an amazing transformation! If you don't own one already, a needle scaler is an amazing tool to cut through heavy rust scales quickly (it just hammers off everything remotely loose) so your blaster doesn't have to do the heavy lifting. It would have been perfect for the third member as well as it will remove what a wire brush won't cut. They're just noisy as hell so I'm sure my neighbors love mine :D I've pretty much the same 250A MIG welding machine minus the little display and spool gun connector and it's been faithful for the last 7 years, I definitely don't regret buying it. But those repair sections you put in the trailing arm brackets are structural and have enough thickness that they don't need a stack of tacks, you should really do continuous sections of welds here.
You should look into zinc primer, we use it on boat trailers that go in sea water, it acts as a sacrificial anode and postpones future rust for years, we find it works great! We use CRC zinc it.
Quick tip, if you ever need to get a steel sleeve or bearing race out quick, usually running a dead of weld will get it hot enough without causing any damage to the shaft
Nice vid! Rust eats every car in the UK. Just so you know, the "sway bar" is actually called panhard rod, and it designed to control the side to side movement of solid axles.👍
@@SalandFindles No. A Panhard rod is NOT a "sway bar". Completely different. Panhard rod controls/reduces the side to side movement of the rear axle, thus keeping it in the same place laterally. Whereas an anti-roll bar (mistankenly often called a sway bar) controls and reduces body roll during hard cornering.
@@RestoreIt you work for free? now days people get paid for work and working on your own time after you worked a job is considered over time. do not mislead us on your $ BS. you took a POS and basically painted it. its pitted so bad i would not trust it on the road at 5mph.
Tip for helicoils, always install them with red loctite. I just bought my first flux core mig welder recently, and I definitely understand now why its not as easy as just pulling the trigger and welding a straight line in one go. Hope to both progress my skills quickly. Cheers mate!
Great job. Only two criticisms (besides the mechanical issues already discussed); 1) I probably would have taken the opportunity to tap a 1/8" BSP thread into the breather. Your friend may want to install a breather extension in future. This could be something the Mechanic can do while his 2) The centre spacer of the Caster Correction bushes would need to be correctly positioned by the mechanic when the 2" lift is installed.
Your a good friend,all I can if that’s the good one,I could imagine what the broken one must have looked like.great video as always.I’m sure your friend will be very happy with the results great job.just keep doing what your doing and carry on.👍👍👍😎😎😎
Great job with the restoration, I really liked the ASMR vibe of the video! On a separate note, you may want to reconsider partnering with Temu in the future, at least until they resolve all the lawsuits they're facing at the moment.
Have you thought about getting a needle scaler for the rust instead of a wire wheel? It would get all the flakey rust off so you can preserve your media longer. The needle scaler would also be faster and have fewer small particles floating around your shop to breath in.
You can get Wurth Gray Stoneguard and tint it with Mixol tints. 80 drops of oxide yellow into 1L of Stoneguard gets you pretty close to the factory color. You’d probably get even closer with some oxide brown added in.
Procrastination: sitting in my kitchen watching you restore a rearend when I should be out in my shop restoring a 9” Ford for my hotrod. Great work! You, not me. Still procrastinating by typing.
@@RestoreIt Good ND filters are *not* cheap. I'd recommend a circular polarizing filter; while also not that cheap, certainly less expensive than good nd filters. Edit: come to thing about it, I'd probably shoot through (plexi)glass as spark protection and use a good CPF to get rid of any introduced glare. plexiglass is probably the cheapest option, but you'll have to replace it regularly.
@@delirium3181 I made mistake. I don't use a nd-filter, I have a uv filter. Sorry (I don't know why I wrote ND and not UV. Brain afk?). I have a hama nmc 16 on my main-lens.
@@RestoreIt as @dagobertkrikelin1587 said below, get a UV filter, not an ND filter. On the front of your camera's lens you will find some numbers and letters. There will be a symbol like this ø with a number next to it (ie. ø 72). That is the size of the filter you require. You can get a UV filter for just a few quid, even from a quality brand like Tiffen.
Mate, absolutely outstanding work as always! If you were my mate and doing a job like this, in addition to paying you, I'd be getting you whatever your booze of choice is and giving you a massive hug to thank you lol. Keep up the great work!
Some serious effort there mate and flawless finish. You mentioned about the mechanic being the one responsible if the brakes fail. The same can be said of the welded suspension mounts. I’m not an expert (I weld, not amazing but I get by) and I’m not trying to be a bell end but those welds look super cold and no real penetration. I wonder (I’m sure an expert will correct me soon) if things like this should be MIG welded at all. And then grinding away the majority of the weld just made me nervous. Hopefully I’m well wrong and it’ll last forever. And like I said before beautiful flawless finish though mate 👍👍👍
Great Job. One thing i would've done differently is prime and paint the new dust shield with the same paint you used on everything else. The black ccoating it has is just an EPD coating which will will not prevent rust as good as the paint you put on.
How wonderful!! Love your video..Very beautiful. It looks really nice after the renovation. . Hope it works as well as it looks. You guys are amazing at what you do. Be even more proud of your talent! Another masterpiece!!!! Great job!!!🇧🇷👍?
Broken axel is still on the vehicle restore it will do another video on his 2nd channel once it’s on the car will bring the broken one so you can all see
From the bottom of the ocean.. That was a titanic restoration. All the experience welding that awful Benz, made this a breeze I bet. Not to mention that super blasting system. Congrats on a well done restoration 👍
Huge amount of work sir! Turned out well! I suspect those bushings will need to be re-torqued once installed while vehicle is loaded. Looking forward to the follow-up.
Thanks and very good point. I had the page up on the laptop and was just doing everything. Kind of for show as this is going to be finalised by a pro mechanic before installation. Cheers.
That you were able to take a massive pile of shyte and turn it into something that looks like a rear axle assembly is a testament to your skills. Hopefully it works as well as it looks. Nicely done, mate.
Have you not heard of a wire brush ? Helps a lot on threads , followed by WD 90 type releasing agent plus a little time to let it soak in works wonders..........
Just wanted to point out a little technical mistake. What you keep referring to as the sway bar is actually a panhard rod. It doest prevent sway or body roll, but rather makes sure the axle stays centered from side to side while articulating.
Awesome restoration. Love what you did. One suggestion, don't take apart the rear gear like you did. The rear bearings needed to be measured to be put back in the exact spot that they were in before with the proper backlash. Now that differential will have a whirling noise from it. Even if the mechanic can adjust the backlash, it will not be in the exact same place it was before since it wasn't measured.
Mesmerising...But was it worth the cost for replacing with a used one in a better condition?The video as always was great,and the work is amazing.Thank you
Why bother restoring anything then, just go and buy it new or a better second hand version. Restoration is about saving something from the scrap and making it new again for the satisfaction.
Thanks and correct! I had the page up on the laptop and was just doing everything. All for show as this is going to be rebuild/setup correctly by a pro mechanic before its installed.
The good news is, at 65 horse power they were never going to wear out a rear end. This one had remarkably good looking gear oil. Quite a transformation.
The splines were as good as new, so I'm with you on that one. And yes I thought so too. I think someone had given it a service not long before it was left to rot.
Cant get over the look of the oil you drained, like new, would expect black worn oil going by the outer condition of the differential, suppose its from a BMW 🤤
Great to watch. Serious question - Why two coats of two part epoxy primer? The body work primer is the first point of contact with the steel. Also what sort of design is that putting the bearings on the shaft? Especially on a 4x4 vehicle. You would have to go through all that to replace the back plate if it got banged up.
It is a very common setup to have the bearings on the axle shaft, it is simple and cheap, most of the 4x4 vehicles use this setup one way or another in their solid axles
I did two coats to ensure good coverage, as they were tricky to paint. I may have the bodywork primer, but that is a thin layer. The epoxy primer is the one doing the real protection, it's incredibly tough. Cheers.
A bit of a correction, the thing you call sway bar is not a sway bar, it's a panhard bar. Sway bars limit movement of the wheels on each side relative to each other (or in case of an axle like this, the twist of the axle), the panhard bar meanwhile is what keeps the axle from moving laterally in an uncontrolled fashion (by the nature of the panhard bar, the axle always move side to side as it goes up and down, because the bar travels in an arc, but the small amount of controlled motion is fine)
Nice work, but i wonder how the half-axle and the hub is secured from moving to the outside when there is no clip or something else - looks like its only hold in place because of those "rings" (sry, dont know the right word) you pressed in with the bearing. Could anyone explain this to me ?
A freshly blasted surface no longer needs treatment, it's great as is to get a grip on the primer. If you want the finish to be bulletproof, painting it with a 2 pack epoxy paint is the way to go
Thanks! Because I wasn't removing the pinion shaft and bearing and so I didn't want to get blasting media in there. I would have removed the shaft and bearings if it were my diff, but this was for someone on a budget/done for free.
Man this was so insanely satisfying. I hope we get a sneak peak at your buddy’s car this is going in! Hope he can send more projects from his car your way! edit: ahh it’ll be at RestorIt2! haha subbed!
![Villiers MK15 Engine - Barn Find [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rph4Sf-GQ78/mqdefault.jpg)
A quick one to help you save those lenses. Cut a sheet of thick acrylic into squares and notch the edges so you can hook elastic bands through the sheet and over the body of the camera. You can use blu-tac on the lens edge to hold the acrylic in place. It'll stop that grinding dust from hitting the lens and is so close to the front element that the camera will just ignore it until it is REALLY dirty.
Great idea! thank you.
When I first saw the condition of the rear end, I said NO WAY..!
Brother did you show me a thing or two.
I'm speechless, I can say it can't get any better than that. Great job... BRAVO..!
I was working in Guam and the company gave me a Suzuki Jeep to drive, it was a fun 4 wheeler. Believe it or not it was the color of the reddish orange primer you used. No doors, no windshield, no top, no tailgate, only two seats. 100° so when it rained it felt good.
They were illegal in California, 1989 time. I never saw one in California.
Impressive you surprised me.
Brake shoes are disposable , why try to do anything with em ????
That was an amazing transformation! If you don't own one already, a needle scaler is an amazing tool to cut through heavy rust scales quickly (it just hammers off everything remotely loose) so your blaster doesn't have to do the heavy lifting. It would have been perfect for the third member as well as it will remove what a wire brush won't cut. They're just noisy as hell so I'm sure my neighbors love mine :D
I've pretty much the same 250A MIG welding machine minus the little display and spool gun connector and it's been faithful for the last 7 years, I definitely don't regret buying it.
But those repair sections you put in the trailing arm brackets are structural and have enough thickness that they don't need a stack of tacks, you should really do continuous sections of welds here.
You should look into zinc primer, we use it on boat trailers that go in sea water, it acts as a sacrificial anode and postpones future rust for years, we find it works great! We use CRC zinc it.
Quick tip, if you ever need to get a steel sleeve or bearing race out quick, usually running a dead of weld will get it hot enough without causing any damage to the shaft
ooo good tip. Thanks Paul!
Nice vid! Rust eats every car in the UK. Just so you know, the "sway bar" is actually called panhard rod, and it designed to control the side to side movement of solid axles.👍
Oh thanks, Jorge! I'm so used to BMW's...
I was just trying to find a polite way to say the same thing so thank you for doing it first. 😊
Sooooooo.......a sway bar. Got it.
@@SalandFindles No. A Panhard rod is NOT a "sway bar". Completely different. Panhard rod controls/reduces the side to side movement of the rear axle, thus keeping it in the same place laterally. Whereas an anti-roll bar (mistankenly often called a sway bar) controls and reduces body roll during hard cornering.
At last a comment constructively dismissing the Americanism ‘sway bar’! It’s not a ship so it is an anti roll bar!
Just like the good old days, perfect
Cheers, Ris! I'm going to be doing a lot more of these!
I can't believe that all of your work and parts were cheaper than a replacement! Your work is awesome as always!
As always for sure!
because he makes videos making $$$ on this crap... time is a commodity
It's more like $, rather than $$$ when you take into account the cost of the workshop bills, parts, consumables, my time, etc.
@@RestoreIt 👍
@@RestoreIt you work for free? now days people get paid for work and working on your own time after you worked a job is considered over time. do not mislead us on your $ BS. you took a POS and basically painted it. its pitted so bad i would not trust it on the road at 5mph.
Tip for helicoils, always install them with red loctite. I just bought my first flux core mig welder recently, and I definitely understand now why its not as easy as just pulling the trigger and welding a straight line in one go. Hope to both progress my skills quickly. Cheers mate!
Great point! Thank you. And yeah the new welder is definitelyy taking some getting use to. I'm with you on that. Cheers mate!
When you finished the epoxy primer I said to myself, "Don't tell me he's going to wet sand..." and then you did, lol. Perfect finish, why not!
Great job.
Only two criticisms (besides the mechanical issues already discussed);
1) I probably would have taken the opportunity to tap a 1/8" BSP thread into the breather. Your friend may want to install a breather extension in future. This could be something the Mechanic can do while his
2) The centre spacer of the Caster Correction bushes would need to be correctly positioned by the mechanic when the 2" lift is installed.
I feel like he need to learn how to use properly torque wrench. I saw laki he's torqueing a bit over click... almost every nut/screw.
Thank you for the all work and minimal narration video.
so much work for someone that clearly doesent value his car ^^ amazingly done.
A great video for when you’re sick!! Another excellent video Steven!! 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you! and get well soon!
Your a good friend,all I can if that’s the good one,I could imagine what the broken one must have looked like.great video as always.I’m sure your friend will be very happy with the results great job.just keep doing what your doing and carry on.👍👍👍😎😎😎
Am extremely happy with how it’s turned out can’t wait to pick it up and get it fitted
Hey, Tom. Thanks mate!
Great job with the restoration, I really liked the ASMR vibe of the video!
On a separate note, you may want to reconsider partnering with Temu in the future, at least until they resolve all the lawsuits they're facing at the moment.
Thanks, Georgi. Yes, I'm looking into this now.
Finally someone letting the mechanic check before putting it to use! Fantastic work man
Nice video sir, there’s a lot of work in that and a very satisfying result!
Thanks, Kung!
It's honestly impressive the chrome on the shocks looked basically pristine. Metal is wild!
Have you thought about getting a needle scaler for the rust instead of a wire wheel? It would get all the flakey rust off so you can preserve your media longer. The needle scaler would also be faster and have fewer small particles floating around your shop to breath in.
A good way to start a Monday. Nice job as always!
Thanks Josiptadic! Glad you enjoyed it.
Love the video and really good to watch, very jealous. But the Gen 3 ran from 1998 -> 2018, surely easier to find a newer replacement!
Excellent job on that rear axel assembly
You can get Wurth Gray Stoneguard and tint it with Mixol tints. 80 drops of oxide yellow into 1L of Stoneguard gets you pretty close to the factory color. You’d probably get even closer with some oxide brown added in.
Procrastination: sitting in my kitchen watching you restore a rearend when I should be out in my shop restoring a 9” Ford for my hotrod. Great work! You, not me. Still procrastinating by typing.
Haha, thanks, Kane!
Tipp for your camera: Get some nd-filters for your camera-lenses. They are cheap and good for protecting your camera-lenses in the front.
Thanks for the tip, Fox!
@@RestoreIt Good ND filters are *not* cheap. I'd recommend a circular polarizing filter; while also not that cheap, certainly less expensive than good nd filters.
Edit: come to thing about it, I'd probably shoot through (plexi)glass as spark protection and use a good CPF to get rid of any introduced glare. plexiglass is probably the cheapest option, but you'll have to replace it regularly.
I think UV filters are the cheapest. I have them on all my lenses just for protection.
@@delirium3181 I made mistake. I don't use a nd-filter, I have a uv filter. Sorry (I don't know why I wrote ND and not UV. Brain afk?). I have a hama nmc 16 on my main-lens.
@@RestoreIt as @dagobertkrikelin1587 said below, get a UV filter, not an ND filter. On the front of your camera's lens you will find some numbers and letters. There will be a symbol like this ø with a number next to it (ie. ø 72). That is the size of the filter you require. You can get a UV filter for just a few quid, even from a quality brand like Tiffen.
With all of your precise work, how much did you charge the customer? It must have been a lot. Many hours of your work. John from CapeCod
I did this for free, John. Cheers.
That is the most rusted thing i ever seen, well done on the resturantion work.
Mate, absolutely outstanding work as always! If you were my mate and doing a job like this, in addition to paying you, I'd be getting you whatever your booze of choice is and giving you a massive hug to thank you lol. Keep up the great work!
Haha, thanks mate! I offered to do it for him to be fair, It's a win, win.... win... as you guys get to watch it as well!
Some serious effort there mate and flawless finish.
You mentioned about the mechanic being the one responsible if the brakes fail. The same can be said of the welded suspension mounts.
I’m not an expert (I weld, not amazing but I get by) and I’m not trying to be a bell end but those welds look super cold and no real penetration. I wonder (I’m sure an expert will correct me soon) if things like this should be MIG welded at all. And then grinding away the majority of the weld just made me nervous.
Hopefully I’m well wrong and it’ll last forever.
And like I said before beautiful flawless finish though mate 👍👍👍
A friend in need is a friend indeed
Great Job.
One thing i would've done differently is prime and paint the new dust shield with the same paint you used on everything else.
The black ccoating it has is just an EPD coating which will will not prevent rust as good as the paint you put on.
It's funny becuase I was going to, but it arrived so late in the project, I didnt get time.
So relaxing to watch, well done!
Thanks!
Jeebus - that blaster is amazing!
It's mega... Althought this axle was pushing it to its limits.
Perfect. I would replace the bolts too. They might looking good, but probably not holding as new ones.
That's what I thought too.
And since replacing nuts and washers might as well replace the bolts.
It all came down to budget, or lack there of. I did suggest it, but the owner decided against it.
@@RestoreIt
Are bolts like these expensive in your region or what?
How wonderful!! Love your video..Very beautiful. It looks really nice after the renovation. . Hope it works as well as it looks. You guys are amazing at what you do. Be even more proud of your talent! Another masterpiece!!!! Great job!!!🇧🇷👍?
I enjoyed every second of this video
Where did your mate get this axle from underwater from Blackpool I suppose but great turnaround
Some pond in the UK
It's nice to see Novol For Classic Cars products in use :) NFCC line is best for restoring rusted parts
Great stuff Novol...
Nice! I bought myself a 3/4 inch breaker bar for such things 💪
It's when they start to bend that I wish I didn't buy one!
Solid work sir, awesome stuff. 💪❤👍
Wonderful, work, always love to see you progress!
Thank you!
Insanely amazing restoration! I'm guessing nothing was salvageable from the broken axle? That would have been cool to see.
Broken axel is still on the vehicle restore it will do another video on his 2nd channel once it’s on the car will bring the broken one so you can all see
Thanks, dan! And WIll has answered your question already :)
Looks really good
Cheers!
FANTASTIC RESTORATION !!!!!!!!!!
From the bottom of the ocean.. That was a titanic restoration. All the experience welding that awful Benz, made this a breeze I bet. Not to mention that super blasting system. Congrats on a well done restoration 👍
You hit the nail on the head! Thank you, mate.
All your videos are always amazing! Keep up the great videos!
Thanks, dude!
@@RestoreIt no problem!! I’ve watched each of your videos multiple times!!! Can’t believe you don’t have millions of subs yet!
Huge amount of work sir! Turned out well! I suspect those bushings will need to be re-torqued once installed while vehicle is loaded. Looking forward to the follow-up.
Thanks. Michael! And yes, the mechanic is pretty much going to rebuild it before or once its installed onto the car.
Love how some of the videography gives me Wes Anderson vibes 😂
Keep it up💪
Very beautiful result, but why did you torque the trailing arms? Bushings need to be torqued with the car on the ground and on "loaded" suspension.
Thanks and very good point. I had the page up on the laptop and was just doing everything. Kind of for show as this is going to be finalised by a pro mechanic before installation. Cheers.
Bro this episode is really challenging the amount of rust can only be defeated by your skills. I can't believe you did not break a bolt or used hit.
Good to see you dude! I couldn't have done it without the new tools thats for sure! Hyper rusty...
That you were able to take a massive pile of shyte and turn it into something that looks like a rear axle assembly is a testament to your skills. Hopefully it works as well as it looks. Nicely done, mate.
Thanks, Silver! The mechanic fitting it is pretty much going to rebuild it again, I just did it for the sake of the episode. Cheers!
How many hours labour approx?
Have you not heard of a wire brush ? Helps a lot on threads , followed by WD 90 type releasing agent plus a little time to let it soak in works wonders..........
Good solid refurb a pleasure to watch.
very excellent job so that proof your are very professional 👍
great work as always really go the extra mile
Cheers, Dyson!
Man that sand blaster is impressive, my harbor freight special doesn’t do near that good even with all sorts of upgrades
Just wanted to point out a little technical mistake. What you keep referring to as the sway bar is actually a panhard rod. It doest prevent sway or body roll, but rather makes sure the axle stays centered from side to side while articulating.
Insane amount of work for one video
Can’t wait to see this in use!
you got to love a rust axle we blast 15 a week for local axle specialist and amazing how much rust some of them have JT.....
You ever heard of PB Blaster? Stuff works great for getting rusty stuff apart.
Awesome restoration. Love what you did. One suggestion, don't take apart the rear gear like you did. The rear bearings needed to be measured to be put back in the exact spot that they were in before with the proper backlash. Now that differential will have a whirling noise from it. Even if the mechanic can adjust the backlash, it will not be in the exact same place it was before since it wasn't measured.
Thanks mate, and don't worry the rebuild was pretty much just for show. A mechanic is going to rebuild this before its install into the car.
Brilliant job !
Terrific job, mate!!
Wanna say hi! Been watching for a long time now and really like your BMW work!
Thanks, mate. The BMW is making a return soon.
Mesmerising...But was it worth the cost for replacing with a used one in a better condition?The video as always was great,and the work is amazing.Thank you
Why bother restoring anything then, just go and buy it new or a better second hand version. Restoration is about saving something from the scrap and making it new again for the satisfaction.
It was worth it for the video, yes. Thanks, man!
Exactly!
Correct me if I am wrong but surely a dull surface would be better for paint adhesion?
It would be if it were the epoxy primer going straight onto the surface, but as it was the bodywork primer, it prefers a shiny substrate, cheers.
Excellent restoration it look really good 👍
Thanks, Taylor!
Fine work as always
Thanks, Leggedog!
I find this video oddly satisfying 👍
Un trabajo increíble como siempre!
Great work! One question - shouldn't trailing arm bushings be torqued with suspension loaded?
Thanks and correct! I had the page up on the laptop and was just doing everything. All for show as this is going to be rebuild/setup correctly by a pro mechanic before its installed.
In my country we use axles from Vitara to run Jimny or 410/413. And engine swap to 1.6 - easiest option probably.
He must be a REALLY good friend! LOL
Very well done!
Thanks!
Very nicely done!😊
Wow dude. I bet you could derust and restore the Titanic if you wanted to :-) Excellent job!
Haha, thanks!
Excellent work.
The good news is, at 65 horse power they were never going to wear out a rear end. This one had remarkably good looking gear oil. Quite a transformation.
The splines were as good as new, so I'm with you on that one. And yes I thought so too. I think someone had given it a service not long before it was left to rot.
@@RestoreIt Here in the USA Samurai's are fetching $15,000. None have a rear end as nice as that Jimny you restored.
Impressive work!
Cant get over the look of the oil you drained, like new, would expect black worn oil going by the outer condition of the differential, suppose its from a BMW 🤤
Literally can't take someone seriously when they are advertising for temu 😂.
Those shocks are good for at least another 100k miles. Just a little clean, a lick of paint, and you’re good to go!😂
Сначала красит, потом варит.гениально.
Пескоструть колодки, это уникальная технология
Great to watch. Serious question - Why two coats of two part epoxy primer? The body work primer is the first point of contact with the steel. Also what sort of design is that putting the bearings on the shaft? Especially on a 4x4 vehicle. You would have to go through all that to replace the back plate if it got banged up.
It is a very common setup to have the bearings on the axle shaft, it is simple and cheap, most of the 4x4 vehicles use this setup one way or another in their solid axles
I did two coats to ensure good coverage, as they were tricky to paint. I may have the bodywork primer, but that is a thin layer. The epoxy primer is the one doing the real protection, it's incredibly tough. Cheers.
A bit of a correction, the thing you call sway bar is not a sway bar, it's a panhard bar. Sway bars limit movement of the wheels on each side relative to each other (or in case of an axle like this, the twist of the axle), the panhard bar meanwhile is what keeps the axle from moving laterally in an uncontrolled fashion (by the nature of the panhard bar, the axle always move side to side as it goes up and down, because the bar travels in an arc, but the small amount of controlled motion is fine)
On the brake backing plate i would have just used jb weld to fill in the gaps it will be easier and quicker. Jb weld will hold with no issues
Nice work, but i wonder how the half-axle and the hub is secured from moving to the outside when there is no clip or something else - looks like its only hold in place because of those "rings" (sry, dont know the right word) you pressed in with the bearing. Could anyone explain this to me ?
One advice is always good to rotate nut first less friction etc... When you rotate bolt you can snap it.
Dont aske how i know 😂
This is a good shout. I think the sheer amount of rust got to me
Крутая работа, интересно смотреть 😊😊
Thats huge amount of labor. Thank you. I hope you got PAID.
A freshly blasted surface no longer needs treatment, it's great as is to get a grip on the primer. If you want the finish to be bulletproof, painting it with a 2 pack epoxy paint is the way to go
I'm just curious but why didn't you want to blast the diff? love your channel!
Thanks! Because I wasn't removing the pinion shaft and bearing and so I didn't want to get blasting media in there. I would have removed the shaft and bearings if it were my diff, but this was for someone on a budget/done for free.
oh ok that's what i thought, thanks!@@RestoreIt
Great job! But why havent the brake pads been replaced?
A mechanic will rebuild the brakes with new brake shoes.
I can't believe you got the drain plug out
Me either!
For the remaining bushing outer shells you could just weld a bead around. with the heat these would come out almost on their own.
I have seen this tip a few comments ago, its a good one. Cheers!
Try a neutral density filter on your lens to protect it. A lot cheaper than a new lens.
Thanks for the info, I will!
Man this was so insanely satisfying. I hope we get a sneak peak at your buddy’s car this is going in! Hope he can send more projects from his car your way!
edit: ahh it’ll be at RestorIt2! haha subbed!
Haha, cheers Dan! Coming soon!
Out of interest will the work you have done make it last longer than from the factory and what is the difference . This would be really interesting :)
These coatings are superior to factory, yes.
Great job 👍🙂
Thanks!