Rusty Rear Axle Restoration and Rebuild | Suzuki Jimny 1.3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ย. 2023
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In this episode of Restore It, I restore a friend's 1999 Suzuki Jimny rear axle. This has to be one of the rustiest things I've had in my workshop. I believe it was found in a pond in the UK. Not to worry! With the new workshop, I have this thing brought back to life in no time.
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Workshop Tools Used In This Episode:
Nukeson Spray Booth - Indoor Outdoors
www.indooroutdoors.co.uk
CPM 15 Compressor - Northern Compressed Air
www.ncair.co.uk
Welder - R-Tech Welding
www.r-techwelding.co.uk
Welding Table - Mac industries
macindustries.co.uk
Shot Blaster - Riley Surface World
www.rileysurfaceworld.co.uk
Blasting Media & Parts
www.blastsparesdirect.com
Ducting & Ventilation Supplies
www.amsductingsupplies.co.uk/
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![Villiers MK15 Engine - Barn Find [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rph4Sf-GQ78/mqdefault.jpg)
A quick one to help you save those lenses. Cut a sheet of thick acrylic into squares and notch the edges so you can hook elastic bands through the sheet and over the body of the camera. You can use blu-tac on the lens edge to hold the acrylic in place. It'll stop that grinding dust from hitting the lens and is so close to the front element that the camera will just ignore it until it is REALLY dirty.
Great idea! thank you.
Nice vid! Rust eats every car in the UK. Just so you know, the "sway bar" is actually called panhard rod, and it designed to control the side to side movement of solid axles.👍
Oh thanks, Jorge! I'm so used to BMW's...
I was just trying to find a polite way to say the same thing so thank you for doing it first. 😊
Sooooooo.......a sway bar. Got it.
@@SalandFindles No. A Panhard rod is NOT a "sway bar". Completely different. Panhard rod controls/reduces the side to side movement of the rear axle, thus keeping it in the same place laterally. Whereas an anti-roll bar (mistankenly often called a sway bar) controls and reduces body roll during hard cornering.
At last a comment constructively dismissing the Americanism ‘sway bar’! It’s not a ship so it is an anti roll bar!
Thank you for the all work and minimal narration video.
Great job with the restoration, I really liked the ASMR vibe of the video!
On a separate note, you may want to reconsider partnering with Temu in the future, at least until they resolve all the lawsuits they're facing at the moment.
Thanks, Georgi. Yes, I'm looking into this now.
FANTASTIC RESTORATION !!!!!!!!!!
Insane amount of work for one video
Can’t wait to see this in use!
That was an amazing transformation! If you don't own one already, a needle scaler is an amazing tool to cut through heavy rust scales quickly (it just hammers off everything remotely loose) so your blaster doesn't have to do the heavy lifting. It would have been perfect for the third member as well as it will remove what a wire brush won't cut. They're just noisy as hell so I'm sure my neighbors love mine :D
I've pretty much the same 250A MIG welding machine minus the little display and spool gun connector and it's been faithful for the last 7 years, I definitely don't regret buying it.
But those repair sections you put in the trailing arm brackets are structural and have enough thickness that they don't need a stack of tacks, you should really do continuous sections of welds here.
Just like the good old days, perfect
Cheers, Ris! I'm going to be doing a lot more of these!
Solid work sir, awesome stuff. 💪❤👍
When I first saw the condition of the rear end, I said NO WAY..!
Brother did you show me a thing or two.
I'm speechless, I can say it can't get any better than that. Great job... BRAVO..!
I was working in Guam and the company gave me a Suzuki Jeep to drive, it was a fun 4 wheeler. Believe it or not it was the color of the reddish orange primer you used. No doors, no windshield, no top, no tailgate, only two seats. 100° so when it rained it felt good.
They were illegal in California, 1989 time. I never saw one in California.
Impressive you surprised me.
Finally someone letting the mechanic check before putting it to use! Fantastic work man
Excellent work.
Un trabajo increíble como siempre!
Excellent job on that rear axel assembly
A friend in need is a friend indeed
I enjoyed every second of this video
You should look into zinc primer, we use it on boat trailers that go in sea water, it acts as a sacrificial anode and postpones future rust for years, we find it works great! We use CRC zinc it.
It's honestly impressive the chrome on the shocks looked basically pristine. Metal is wild!
Good solid refurb a pleasure to watch.
Very good job !
Impressive work!
Wonderful, work, always love to see you progress!
Thank you!
When you finished the epoxy primer I said to myself, "Don't tell me he's going to wet sand..." and then you did, lol. Perfect finish, why not!
Terrific job, mate!!
Very nicely done!😊
so much work for someone that clearly doesent value his car ^^ amazingly done.
Jeebus - that blaster is amazing!
It's mega... Althought this axle was pushing it to its limits.
A good way to start a Monday. Nice job as always!
Thanks Josiptadic! Glad you enjoyed it.
Fine work as always
Thanks, Leggedog!
great work as always really go the extra mile
Cheers, Dyson!
That you were able to take a massive pile of shyte and turn it into something that looks like a rear axle assembly is a testament to your skills. Hopefully it works as well as it looks. Nicely done, mate.
Thanks, Silver! The mechanic fitting it is pretty much going to rebuild it again, I just did it for the sake of the episode. Cheers!
How many hours labour approx?
A great video for when you’re sick!! Another excellent video Steven!! 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you! and get well soon!
nice work
Very well done!
Thanks!
So relaxing to watch, well done!
Thanks!
very excellent job so that proof your are very professional 👍
He must be a REALLY good friend! LOL
Good job
That is the most rusted thing i ever seen, well done on the resturantion work.
Nice work!!
Thanks, Buffalo!
Your a good friend,all I can if that’s the good one,I could imagine what the broken one must have looked like.great video as always.I’m sure your friend will be very happy with the results great job.just keep doing what your doing and carry on.👍👍👍😎😎😎
Am extremely happy with how it’s turned out can’t wait to pick it up and get it fitted
Hey, Tom. Thanks mate!
Good job!
holy great job man wow,,
good job !
I find this video oddly satisfying 👍
Nice video sir, there’s a lot of work in that and a very satisfying result!
Thanks, Kung!
Great job.
Thank you!
Tip for helicoils, always install them with red loctite. I just bought my first flux core mig welder recently, and I definitely understand now why its not as easy as just pulling the trigger and welding a straight line in one go. Hope to both progress my skills quickly. Cheers mate!
Great point! Thank you. And yeah the new welder is definitelyy taking some getting use to. I'm with you on that. Cheers mate!
Perfect.👍👍👍
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching and commenting! I really appreciate it
Good job bro..
All your videos are always amazing! Keep up the great videos!
Thanks, dude!
@@RestoreIt no problem!! I’ve watched each of your videos multiple times!!! Can’t believe you don’t have millions of subs yet!
Quick tip, if you ever need to get a steel sleeve or bearing race out quick, usually running a dead of weld will get it hot enough without causing any damage to the shaft
ooo good tip. Thanks Paul!
nice job
Nice! I bought myself a 3/4 inch breaker bar for such things 💪
It's when they start to bend that I wish I didn't buy one!
Great job 👍🙂
Thanks!
The good news is, at 65 horse power they were never going to wear out a rear end. This one had remarkably good looking gear oil. Quite a transformation.
The splines were as good as new, so I'm with you on that one. And yes I thought so too. I think someone had given it a service not long before it was left to rot.
@@RestoreIt Here in the USA Samurai's are fetching $15,000. None have a rear end as nice as that Jimny you restored.
Крутая работа, интересно смотреть 😊😊
Huge amount of work sir! Turned out well! I suspect those bushings will need to be re-torqued once installed while vehicle is loaded. Looking forward to the follow-up.
Thanks. Michael! And yes, the mechanic is pretty much going to rebuild it before or once its installed onto the car.
Great job.
Only two criticisms (besides the mechanical issues already discussed);
1) I probably would have taken the opportunity to tap a 1/8" BSP thread into the breather. Your friend may want to install a breather extension in future. This could be something the Mechanic can do while his
2) The centre spacer of the Caster Correction bushes would need to be correctly positioned by the mechanic when the 2" lift is installed.
I feel like he need to learn how to use properly torque wrench. I saw laki he's torqueing a bit over click... almost every nut/screw.
Looks good mate! :)
Great job
Thanks, John!
Excellent restoration it look really good 👍
Thanks, Taylor!
Man that sand blaster is impressive, my harbor freight special doesn’t do near that good even with all sorts of upgrades
How wonderful!! Love your video..Very beautiful. It looks really nice after the renovation. . Hope it works as well as it looks. You guys are amazing at what you do. Be even more proud of your talent! Another masterpiece!!!! Great job!!!🇧🇷👍?
Good! 👍
Tipp for your camera: Get some nd-filters for your camera-lenses. They are cheap and good for protecting your camera-lenses in the front.
Thanks for the tip, Fox!
@@RestoreIt Good ND filters are *not* cheap. I'd recommend a circular polarizing filter; while also not that cheap, certainly less expensive than good nd filters.
Edit: come to thing about it, I'd probably shoot through (plexi)glass as spark protection and use a good CPF to get rid of any introduced glare. plexiglass is probably the cheapest option, but you'll have to replace it regularly.
I think UV filters are the cheapest. I have them on all my lenses just for protection.
@@delirium3181 I made mistake. I don't use a nd-filter, I have a uv filter. Sorry (I don't know why I wrote ND and not UV. Brain afk?). I have a hama nmc 16 on my main-lens.
@@RestoreIt as @dagobertkrikelin1587 said below, get a UV filter, not an ND filter. On the front of your camera's lens you will find some numbers and letters. There will be a symbol like this ø with a number next to it (ie. ø 72). That is the size of the filter you require. You can get a UV filter for just a few quid, even from a quality brand like Tiffen.
Mate, absolutely outstanding work as always! If you were my mate and doing a job like this, in addition to paying you, I'd be getting you whatever your booze of choice is and giving you a massive hug to thank you lol. Keep up the great work!
Haha, thanks mate! I offered to do it for him to be fair, It's a win, win.... win... as you guys get to watch it as well!
I can't believe that all of your work and parts were cheaper than a replacement! Your work is awesome as always!
As always for sure!
because he makes videos making $$$ on this crap... time is a commodity
It's more like $, rather than $$$ when you take into account the cost of the workshop bills, parts, consumables, my time, etc.
@@RestoreIt 👍
@@RestoreIt you work for free? now days people get paid for work and working on your own time after you worked a job is considered over time. do not mislead us on your $ BS. you took a POS and basically painted it. its pitted so bad i would not trust it on the road at 5mph.
Bro this episode is really challenging the amount of rust can only be defeated by your skills. I can't believe you did not break a bolt or used hit.
Good to see you dude! I couldn't have done it without the new tools thats for sure! Hyper rusty...
beauty! 😊
Cheers!
From the bottom of the ocean.. That was a titanic restoration. All the experience welding that awful Benz, made this a breeze I bet. Not to mention that super blasting system. Congrats on a well done restoration 👍
You hit the nail on the head! Thank you, mate.
Love how some of the videography gives me Wes Anderson vibes 😂
Keep it up💪
Great work as usual!
I am all in it to fix it forward but that axle...if that's the state of that, rest of the car is toast, I hope it was just a donor part someone got for free
you got to love a rust axle we blast 15 a week for local axle specialist and amazing how much rust some of them have JT.....
EXCELENTE TRABAJO
Perfect. I would replace the bolts too. They might looking good, but probably not holding as new ones.
That's what I thought too.
And since replacing nuts and washers might as well replace the bolts.
It all came down to budget, or lack there of. I did suggest it, but the owner decided against it.
@@RestoreIt
Are bolts like these expensive in your region or what?
Procrastination: sitting in my kitchen watching you restore a rearend when I should be out in my shop restoring a 9” Ford for my hotrod. Great work! You, not me. Still procrastinating by typing.
Haha, thanks, Kane!
Awesome restoration. Love what you did. One suggestion, don't take apart the rear gear like you did. The rear bearings needed to be measured to be put back in the exact spot that they were in before with the proper backlash. Now that differential will have a whirling noise from it. Even if the mechanic can adjust the backlash, it will not be in the exact same place it was before since it wasn't measured.
Thanks mate, and don't worry the rebuild was pretty much just for show. A mechanic is going to rebuild this before its install into the car.
Great Job.
One thing i would've done differently is prime and paint the new dust shield with the same paint you used on everything else.
The black ccoating it has is just an EPD coating which will will not prevent rust as good as the paint you put on.
It's funny becuase I was going to, but it arrived so late in the project, I didnt get time.
Some serious effort there mate and flawless finish.
You mentioned about the mechanic being the one responsible if the brakes fail. The same can be said of the welded suspension mounts.
I’m not an expert (I weld, not amazing but I get by) and I’m not trying to be a bell end but those welds look super cold and no real penetration. I wonder (I’m sure an expert will correct me soon) if things like this should be MIG welded at all. And then grinding away the majority of the weld just made me nervous.
Hopefully I’m well wrong and it’ll last forever.
And like I said before beautiful flawless finish though mate 👍👍👍
It's nice to see Novol For Classic Cars products in use :) NFCC line is best for restoring rusted parts
Great stuff Novol...
Wanna say hi! Been watching for a long time now and really like your BMW work!
Thanks, mate. The BMW is making a return soon.
Wow dude. I bet you could derust and restore the Titanic if you wanted to :-) Excellent job!
Haha, thanks!
Insanely amazing restoration! I'm guessing nothing was salvageable from the broken axle? That would have been cool to see.
Broken axel is still on the vehicle restore it will do another video on his 2nd channel once it’s on the car will bring the broken one so you can all see
Thanks, dan! And WIll has answered your question already :)
I would have done the same thing. I love making chicken soup out of chicken poop. Great job. John
Cant get over the look of the oil you drained, like new, would expect black worn oil going by the outer condition of the differential, suppose its from a BMW 🤤
In my country we use axles from Vitara to run Jimny or 410/413. And engine swap to 1.6 - easiest option probably.
You ever heard of PB Blaster? Stuff works great for getting rusty stuff apart.
Have you thought about getting a needle scaler for the rust instead of a wire wheel? It would get all the flakey rust off so you can preserve your media longer. The needle scaler would also be faster and have fewer small particles floating around your shop to breath in.
عاشت الايادي 💪
Сначала красит, потом варит.гениально.
Пескоструть колодки, это уникальная технология
On the brake backing plate i would have just used jb weld to fill in the gaps it will be easier and quicker. Jb weld will hold with no issues
Literally can't take someone seriously when they are advertising for temu 😂.
Have you not heard of a wire brush ? Helps a lot on threads , followed by WD 90 type releasing agent plus a little time to let it soak in works wonders..........
A bit of a correction, the thing you call sway bar is not a sway bar, it's a panhard bar. Sway bars limit movement of the wheels on each side relative to each other (or in case of an axle like this, the twist of the axle), the panhard bar meanwhile is what keeps the axle from moving laterally in an uncontrolled fashion (by the nature of the panhard bar, the axle always move side to side as it goes up and down, because the bar travels in an arc, but the small amount of controlled motion is fine)
A freshly blasted surface no longer needs treatment, it's great as is to get a grip on the primer. If you want the finish to be bulletproof, painting it with a 2 pack epoxy paint is the way to go
One advice is always good to rotate nut first less friction etc... When you rotate bolt you can snap it.
Dont aske how i know 😂
This is a good shout. I think the sheer amount of rust got to me
For the remaining bushing outer shells you could just weld a bead around. with the heat these would come out almost on their own.
I have seen this tip a few comments ago, its a good one. Cheers!
A rather fancy restoration for under carriage. It'll be the dirtiest parts of the car when it serves the purpose. Anyway, great job, and thanks for sharing the video.