Viewers: we want more free content and we want it now!!! Also viewers: you have too many sponsors helping you make the free content we want!!! 🙄 Folks, if you don't want to see "too many ads", get a few million of your friends to subscribe and start watching, commenting, and liking all the videos. I guarantee that will solve the problem. Until then, money doesn't grow on trees and car restorations always cost at least 200% of the original planned budget, so unless you're donating to the channel yourself, this 100% FREE content will likely include some sponsors. 🙃
Thanks, Daedalus! I couldn't have put it better myself. This transitioanal period from amature workshop to pro workshop, is going to take some thanking and shoutouts before I can just crack on. I literally couldn't have done it without the help from each of these companies. And you're absolutely right, it costs a lot of money to produce these episodes. I have to cover my costs and make enough to cover the bills. Preaching to the chior here, but it's nice to know some people can see how this is all happening. Cheers!
In fairness, there are sponsors then there are just a bunch of people that watch and reach out to demo stuff. Even if I won the Lotto I am not so sure if I would have a need for a 150k laser. Then again maybe I would. Maybe its good at cleaning dishes. Also I think for the sponsors if you can give an indication where they sit in term of competitors like Threadlock is the clear comp, so are they better, cheaper, inbetween!
I know this must have been a headache both in time and finance and I'm sure more than a little humbling but I'm overjoyed you made this video. I'm not knowledgeable enough to have spotted this mistake but the fact you shared it, warts and all with us puts you above the usual content creator and takes us along with you on the journey and the pitfalls of restoring a car.
Thank you! Ever since I realised what I had done, I knew I had to make this episode one day. And it feels great to havev it all finished. I'm glad you're enjoying the journey, warts and all!
I just have to mention that it's almost unreal how much your camerawork, editing and especially your narration have been improved in the last few months! Amazing content mate!
Fair play to you for being honest regarding the original finishes - would have been good enough for most of us but I've learned tonnes from this vid, thanks, well done and keep em coming.
If there is someone i admire for all the work you have done it's you. Moving from place to place and setting up your workshop over and over again is extreme. working so hard with the amazing content you make and at the same time learning yourself is quite a journey to bewitness. I've have followed your journey for many years now and im extremly impressed with how long you have come. As always amazing work!
Since this video is about mistakes, I'd like to note a few things from the engine rebuild: On the engine be careful of hydrogen absorbing into high tensile fasteners during zinc plating. Stuff like bolts for the sprockets etc. They can snap unpredictably I noticed you put the seals in the timing cover in flush - they should be 1-2mm deeper than flush since they are installed flush from factory and there will be grooves caused by the old seals Way too much RTV used on various seals especially the oil pan seal. This will probably cause leaks. Elring Curil is preferable on paper gaskets (light smere) and personally cork gaskets ought to be installed dry. Looks like a PTFE rear main seal. It is important to install these dry to allow the seal to bed in. Looks like it was oiled/had grease on during install It would have been preferable to remove the rocker cover baffle and reinstall as lots of junk collects there. I noticed you wanted to redo these parts with cerakote which is much better than the exterior car paint you used before however the H series does require blasting so baffle will need to come out for that. Headgasket was fitted without alignment dowels that are supposed to be in the block. It's possible the headgasket isn't on straight and may be partially covering bits it isn't supposed to. Looks like camshaft seal on the head was not installed Rubber strip missing on inside of "bowl reinforcement"
I bet it takes Hal over here 3 days to change a lightbulb.The channel should be called restoring a e30 with severe add. This car if it ever gets finished will be the most perfect and meticulously restored e30 to ever exist.I can't wait to see it!
When Restore It pops up on my notifications, and it’s a 25min long video 😍😍😍 I just got to say that i love your channel and all the content that you have posted! Everything takes time and costs alot of money! I wish i had same opportunity. Keep it up!
Both "high volume" and "low pressure" refer to the air traveling through the spray gun. High volume does not refer to the liquid being sprayed, but the volume of air required to transfer the liquid to the object being painted. The idea is that a larger volume of air at a lower pressure means more paint is applied to the panel, and less paint goes airborne to become pollutants in the environment, thus doing less damage to as you say, "our beloved planet".
I cant adequately say how thrilled I am to see a laser rust remover in your shop and knowing that the provider is a new partner for the channel. I've wanted to see one in your shop for a couple of years now, but thought it wasn't likely given the cost. Ditto cerakote. I actually mentioned them in one of your older videos. They are incredible. Congrats on all the new support and skill building. You've come a long way over the years and are an inspiration for DIYers like me
Do you remember how many likes and excitements and how much admire you got with those videos when you were doing that stuff which you're now fixing? Much of your audience is easily excited, let alone entertained.
Brother your OCD is from another planet, I have never seen anyone anywhere work so tremendously hard to restore a car. This is beyond anything you ever see in any other car video out there. This is the ocd level of a mad man, mad man like me, wish I will ever get the chance to own a workshop. Best content this is actually crazy good
Great job on the restoration! It's rewarding to see our laser tool contributing effectively to your process. The precision and care you applied really showcased what the technology can do. Looking forward to your next project! 🚗💨
Not sure why you'd remove the EPD/KTL coating though. It's tough as nails. Even without additional coatings provides well over 1000h of salt spray resistance. You can paint over it just fine with any primer or top coat. I had an entire car chassis EPD dip-coated, then sprayed with Novol products.
Very glad to see your developing partnerships, as they can be so helpful on huge projects like this. What an enormous amount of work going back over pieces already completed. I have a great deal of respect for you doing that since most people would've never bothered. Anyway, this is really good to see this project move along now that you have the right tools. Looking forward to the next video!
17:13 good luck getting those screws out (which you will need to) because the throttle body butterfly plate is incorrectly put in. Note at 17:30 the flap actuator is not going anywhere near the stop. Likely the butterfly plate is getting hung up on the soft aluminium and likely damaged it because it wasn't in properly. In fact every time you open and closed it I cringed massively because it was creating a burr of increasing size in the polished bore (not so much after it was sandlbasted...) It should be installed loose and with the actuator arm mounted and then wiggled while closing the actuator until the plate is 90 degrees or as close as possible to the bore. Then the screws can be installed, tightened and peened. Then you need to set the throttle body stop, which you didn't do, using a feeler gauge between the bore and butterfly. Also it would be worth changing the bearings in the throttle body which I don't think you did. Mainly to stop vac leaks. The TPS was not tested or adjusted properly. There is no gasket between the throttle body heater port and throttle body. The throttle body shaft was installed into the bore incorrectly. Tape should be wrapped around the centre cut in the shaft that accepts the butterfly plate, the edges on it are extremely sharp and you jammed it in with no rotation, likely scored the seals inside those needle bearings. 18:14 The shaft seal for the power steering pump has been cerakoted... I.e has been left in during a baking process. It'll be ruined. Absolutely no lubrication was used during the installation of the vanes and seals... The circlip for the power steering pump drive looks stretched and damaged, needs to be replaced.
My friend was using cerakote in 2019 to paint guns for other people. He talked about how amazing it was and the benefits of it over paint. Used it since guns would get so hot.
Great work!! with each passing new episode things are getting more and more professional in the work shop and the rigorous training that your achieving it will pay off in dividends. Much respect for you.. Oh and it's a "Fricken Laser"
Just researched novol, great products! Its amazing what they offer for classic cars. Especially the sprayable filler with aluminium inside sounds interesting. Finally no cracking and sinking filler anymore. Thanks for showing their products.
I’ve spent the last few weekends rust treating, priming and painting the rear of my Discovery chassis,and numerous fittings ... thought i was doing ok till i saw your progress .... ho hum ...... Looking forward to your next video, where no doubt i’ll feel even more deflated lol.
So happy I have more of your content to consume. I was looking forward seeing how the new shop and the upgrades have been working out for you. One could say I'm blinded by the light of your...progress... and laser 😅 Cheers and all the best in future projects!
OMG. I was NOT READY for how goddamned EPIC this episode was going to be!!! 13:00 THERES OUR BOY!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥 WOWW….watching you sandblast with the new powerful equipment is SOOOO SATISFYING!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Hi Steve, good to see you again. I know what some commenters mean about the massive amount of advertisement content, it is a bit wearing. Having said that, I assume once you get most of the gear you need, you can just crack on with the job. I am 71 now and still dabbling in the resto game (currently working on a BMW E31). I have made tons of mistakes . On a subject of coatings, a pro paint sprayer friend of mine swears by the Novol epoxy primer, uses it on everything. Beware of poor adhesion after wire brushing. All wire brushes, particularly new ones, contain oil and force it into the metal. They also leave a polished finish rather than a "tooth". If you can, degrease thoroughly with a water based degreaser (all the Bilt Hamber products are excellent, by the way) after wire brushing, then sand as much as you can to 80 grit, then epoxy prime. I'm sure the Novol black stuff will be good, but Rustbuster make a product called Epoxy Mastic which is a fantastic coating for suspension and under-body parts. Take a look at the Bilt Hamber Atom Mac to protect bare steel from flash rusting. I've just ordered some, but the reviews and tests are amazing, it looks a bit like witchcraft at first!
Hey, good to see you! Exactly that, Bob. I want to make sure these companies get the exposure they deserve, regardless of what anyone else thinks. I know it looks like I've gone advertising mad, but that's the new workshop took ages and was completed only with a lot of support from companies. This new workshop and all of the new tools (all of which I wouldn't have been able to afford without their support) are going to allow me to make weekly content again, whilst working towards two videos a week. Some episodes will have no talking at all, like the old style to make this possible. I've now introduced Cerakote (whom I approached) and LaserTec who will both regularly be seen on the channel in the coming episodes, not as a sponsor, but as part of the episode itself. And thank you for the advice there. Very useful indeed. I will change how I prep for the epoxy primer and will also look into Bilt Hamber's stuff. Thank you!
@@RestoreIt Forgot to mention, I originally put my faith in POR15, and it is absolutely useless. Also, I am on a tight budget and have to save money where I can, so I have to consider aftermarket parts. However, I try to choose my makes, and do not fear using Lemforder, Febi/Bilstein, Mahle, Elring, Victor Reinz, Sachs, Nissens, Vaico and LUK/Schaffler for mechanical parts and gaskets, I am using Pierburg, Bosch, Hella and Magneti Marelli for electrical items and sensors. E.g. there are 4 knock sensors on the 840Ci, all mine have crumbled away to nothing, they are still available from BMW at £120 each. They are a Bosch sensor, which is available from many sources at around £33. Obviously, if you can afford it, go for genuine BMW every time.
Great video,to bad you had to redo the parts,but having them volunteer the use of the laser,impressive job.great.glad to see you working on the bmw.keep on doing what your doing 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Wow. saw all your restoration videos and always thought how clean and nice your coating is. so pity that you have to do all again on that parts. and wow. this laser is insane. whats the output power of it? full respect for the dedication to do it all again. i think i would never do this again
Besides the great content you been bringing years now, since I started watching the channel in the beginning. I never though how patient you must be Bro, until now. I know you have a lot of mad skills, and attention to detail, but the patience you have is out of this world. Can only wish you the most success ever. And by the way that laser blew my mind. Question, how much power the laser machine consumes?
Hey dude! Good to see you. Thanks a lot, man! I always appreciate your comments. The pulse laser is only 300W. I'm not sure exactly how much it pulls, but you can find them here - www.p-laser.com/ (not that anyone can afford one!)
Great stuff! Nothing beats epoxy primer thats for sure As for cerakote, it seems like its similar to powdercoating? One suggestion i have is to make some tests. You did say it offers excellent protection, but there were no tests in the video.
One bond and Cerakote 🤩 wow so many awesome recommendations in this episode. Freaking amazing work 🥰😍😁 absolutely love the channel. Love seeing the work being done right. We have come a long way from a garage in Spain (I know I keep saying that but it’s true LOL. 😂)
Hey, Jeff! Yes, lots of thought has gone into it, I do want one and I will eventually get one. But for now dry shot blasting is good for what I'm doing.
@@RestoreIt Steve, one additional question - how does Cerakote compare to powder coating for durability? I'm sure Cerakote is thinner, but I'm guessing the heat curing is similar so maybe durability is equal?
Man, if I had one of these I'd actually be willing to do more on my e34 Thankfully I think its made of steel, not whatever terrifying alloy "bear metal" is
I'm sorry if this comes across as a mean or negative, but this video felt like a big advertisement rather than a restoration video. This seems to happen to a lot of youtubers as their channels grow, especially in the maker communities. I hope that this is not a trend going forward and will have just been a one time thing to welcome new sponsors or something like that.
Thanks for your comment Trainwreck. let me just say that this wont be the norm for the channel. With all of this new equiptment I now have I will be producting at least one video a week. Some with no talking at all, like the originial style of the channel. I have a lot of people to thank for where I am today, as well as the regular sponsors that make this channel possible. Stay tuned and you'll see what this new workshop is going to do for the channel. Cheers!
I have to agree. Don't get me wrong I love what you're doing and appreciate you sharing the content with all of us. Since you started working on the current workshop however there has been an overwhelming amount of sponsors and associated advertising in your videos. Would there be a way for us viewers to help you out so that you are less dependent on the advertising?
Have to be honest and say I don't much fancy the laser on anything but lightly rusted parts. Retro Power also wasn't that keen when it featured on Ed China's chanel with him trying it out on a Range Rover chassis. Shot blasting still seems the way to go.
Shot blasting is more definetly more efficient, I'm with you there. But, what i like about the laser is that is can remove paint and rust without needing to dismantle everything or put it into a blasting machine that will cover everything in media. It's used more on old oak beams, fireplaces, factory machines and all kinds of niche stuff. This was just an introduction to LaserTec, we're going to work mainly on antiques in the future.
Re you sure that tps is adjusted correctly, you just screw it down, but if it is not clicking when throtle body is in parked position, then your idle control valve will not get signal to turn on, and your car will not idle and will shut down...
I've never liked etch primer when painted over it mostly never bond with the paint so I use anti corrosion epoxy, then base, then 2k clear coat and it never chip for underboady pard. I did my rear subframe and replaced all the control arm that I cleared over the original finish. They didn't rust, it's been 4 years and I live in canada. The shop that sold me the paint told me "epoxy then let cure for 16 to 24h max(otherwise reprime), sand reprime if needed(again need to wait 16 to 24h) or base coat x amount of layer, wait an hour after the last coat and clear. CC cure time was never the same I had to wait weeks to be sandable otherwise it would be too soft and make big scratch. I did once in october, had to wait until may to sand, he gave me a all round hardner so when very hot was a little to fast but below 15C its weeks but I drive it a week after spray since the surface was hard enought. I did a trailer that way for a friend taht laod gravel and stuff, so it scratched a lot since then and the primer is still holding even with the paint gone is some places, scraping with a shovel in gravel is tought on paint
23:41 unfortunately the 042 will not help you in the apllication you used it right here. The threads are not what's sealing, the olives (metal cones on ends of the pipe) do the sealing part. Just make sure to tighten the nuts sufficiently and you're good.
DO NOT BURN OFF THE UNDERSEAL It is PVC Based and releases HCL The seam sealer is of same formulation between panels The heat will cause HCL trapped between panels and your car will rot
I don't want to be a dick especially as you are redoing things but I'm a bit worried about the adhesion with novol epoxy on parts you wire wheeled/laser cleaned. Ideally needs to be blasted to provide the key. Wire wheels polish the surface and the epoxy can come off in sheets.
@@SamCalvercorrect about the epoxy, that could be an issue. Also the fact that he has used the polycoat protect straight over the top of the epoxy without keying the surface first. Novol FCC epoxy can’t be used as a wet on wet application, unless it’s their hybrid epoxy which isn’t what was used in this video
If you want to be very picky about rust, my suggestion is to never touch bare metal bare handed. I myself have specially agressive sweat, I've learned my lesson already, as I turn everything I touch to rust, like some cursed Midas.
21:13 I'm confused. How can epoxy primer mechanically bond to metal (mentioned in 11:21) surface when anti-corrosion red is in the way? Red paint is not even chemically proof. You didn't show in the video but did you spray white epoxy primer on top of red body panels you you went straight to black top coat?
Hey Ed. It's not red paint. It's an anti corrosion weld-through bodywork primer specifically designed to go under that epoxy primer. It's all on Novols' website under the 'for classic car' range if you're looking for more info. The top coat is 'polycoat protect', which is designed to go over the epoxy primer. Cheers
I wouldn’t recommend powder coating for cars. It’s not nearly as durable as cerakote. If you miss one microscopic water drop on the bare metal and powder coat over it, the entire thing will spider and bubble; so much so that I’m far more stressed prepping for powder coating than any other method. It’s great for toys and stuff for indoors. Outdoors where durability is required? Don’t use powder coating. The colors fade quicker than others too due to UV exposure.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
Viewers: we want more free content and we want it now!!!
Also viewers: you have too many sponsors helping you make the free content we want!!! 🙄
Folks, if you don't want to see "too many ads", get a few million of your friends to subscribe and start watching, commenting, and liking all the videos. I guarantee that will solve the problem. Until then, money doesn't grow on trees and car restorations always cost at least 200% of the original planned budget, so unless you're donating to the channel yourself, this 100% FREE content will likely include some sponsors. 🙃
Thanks, Daedalus! I couldn't have put it better myself. This transitioanal period from amature workshop to pro workshop, is going to take some thanking and shoutouts before I can just crack on. I literally couldn't have done it without the help from each of these companies. And you're absolutely right, it costs a lot of money to produce these episodes. I have to cover my costs and make enough to cover the bills. Preaching to the chior here, but it's nice to know some people can see how this is all happening. Cheers!
In fairness, there are sponsors then there are just a bunch of people that watch and reach out to demo stuff. Even if I won the Lotto I am not so sure if I would have a need for a 150k laser. Then again maybe I would. Maybe its good at cleaning dishes. Also I think for the sponsors if you can give an indication where they sit in term of competitors like Threadlock is the clear comp, so are they better, cheaper, inbetween!
This is your way of showing off how much you like spamming!
Facts. Over 7000 languages and you chose to speak facts.
I know this must have been a headache both in time and finance and I'm sure more than a little humbling but I'm overjoyed you made this video. I'm not knowledgeable enough to have spotted this mistake but the fact you shared it, warts and all with us puts you above the usual content creator and takes us along with you on the journey and the pitfalls of restoring a car.
Thank you! Ever since I realised what I had done, I knew I had to make this episode one day. And it feels great to havev it all finished. I'm glad you're enjoying the journey, warts and all!
I agree.
I just have to mention that it's almost unreal how much your camerawork, editing and especially your narration have been improved in the last few months! Amazing content mate!
Thank you, mate! Much appreciated.
Fair play to you for being honest regarding the original finishes - would have been good enough for most of us but I've learned tonnes from this vid, thanks, well done and keep em coming.
Thank you, Simon! The difference is night and day.
Wow, one bond, laser and Cerakote all in one amazing informative episode, your best ever
Cheers!
If there is someone i admire for all the work you have done it's you. Moving from place to place and setting up your workshop over and over again is extreme. working so hard with the amazing content you make and at the same time learning yourself is quite a journey to bewitness. I've have followed your journey for many years now and im extremly impressed with how long you have come. As always amazing work!
We truly live in the future! What a time to be alive. Astonishing.
Isn't it amazing!
Since this video is about mistakes, I'd like to note a few things from the engine rebuild:
On the engine be careful of hydrogen absorbing into high tensile fasteners during zinc plating. Stuff like bolts for the sprockets etc. They can snap unpredictably
I noticed you put the seals in the timing cover in flush - they should be 1-2mm deeper than flush since they are installed flush from factory and there will be grooves caused by the old seals
Way too much RTV used on various seals especially the oil pan seal. This will probably cause leaks. Elring Curil is preferable on paper gaskets (light smere) and personally cork gaskets ought to be installed dry.
Looks like a PTFE rear main seal. It is important to install these dry to allow the seal to bed in. Looks like it was oiled/had grease on during install
It would have been preferable to remove the rocker cover baffle and reinstall as lots of junk collects there. I noticed you wanted to redo these parts with cerakote which is much better than the exterior car paint you used before however the H series does require blasting so baffle will need to come out for that.
Headgasket was fitted without alignment dowels that are supposed to be in the block. It's possible the headgasket isn't on straight and may be partially covering bits it isn't supposed to.
Looks like camshaft seal on the head was not installed
Rubber strip missing on inside of "bowl reinforcement"
You are a great product promoter, I have nearly zero need for any of this myself but you’ve sold me on what I’ll be buying if I ever happen to
Everyone get in here!! Our dude has uploaded a video!!
Haha cheers, Dan!
I bet it takes Hal over here 3 days to change a lightbulb.The channel should be called restoring a e30 with severe add. This car if it ever gets finished will be the most perfect and meticulously restored e30 to ever exist.I can't wait to see it!
Laser cleaning and laser welding are definitely two technologies I can't wait to come down in prices, they are total game changers.
They really are, but yes the prices are eye watering.
That laser cleaner is so awesome!! Cerakote is fantastic. So glad you went with it!
Cheers, KH102695! Glad you enjoyed it!
When Restore It pops up on my notifications, and it’s a 25min long video 😍😍😍 I just got to say that i love your channel and all the content that you have posted! Everything takes time and costs alot of money! I wish i had same opportunity.
Keep it up!
Both "high volume" and "low pressure" refer to the air traveling through the spray gun. High volume does not refer to the liquid being sprayed, but the volume of air required to transfer the liquid to the object being painted. The idea is that a larger volume of air at a lower pressure means more paint is applied to the panel, and less paint goes airborne to become pollutants in the environment, thus doing less damage to as you say, "our beloved planet".
I cant adequately say how thrilled I am to see a laser rust remover in your shop and knowing that the provider is a new partner for the channel. I've wanted to see one in your shop for a couple of years now, but thought it wasn't likely given the cost. Ditto cerakote. I actually mentioned them in one of your older videos. They are incredible. Congrats on all the new support and skill building. You've come a long way over the years and are an inspiration for DIYers like me
Do you remember how many likes and excitements and how much admire you got with those videos when you were doing that stuff which you're now fixing?
Much of your audience is easily excited, let alone entertained.
Brother your OCD is from another planet, I have never seen anyone anywhere work so tremendously hard to restore a car. This is beyond anything you ever see in any other car video out there. This is the ocd level of a mad man, mad man like me, wish I will ever get the chance to own a workshop. Best content this is actually crazy good
Great job on the restoration! It's rewarding to see our laser tool contributing effectively to your process. The precision and care you applied really showcased what the technology can do. Looking forward to your next project! 🚗💨
Not sure why you'd remove the EPD/KTL coating though. It's tough as nails. Even without additional coatings provides well over 1000h of salt spray resistance. You can paint over it just fine with any primer or top coat. I had an entire car chassis EPD dip-coated, then sprayed with Novol products.
Very glad to see your developing partnerships, as they can be so helpful on huge projects like this. What an enormous amount of work going back over pieces already completed. I have a great deal of respect for you doing that since most people would've never bothered. Anyway, this is really good to see this project move along now that you have the right tools. Looking forward to the next video!
17:13 good luck getting those screws out (which you will need to) because the throttle body butterfly plate is incorrectly put in. Note at 17:30 the flap actuator is not going anywhere near the stop. Likely the butterfly plate is getting hung up on the soft aluminium and likely damaged it because it wasn't in properly. In fact every time you open and closed it I cringed massively because it was creating a burr of increasing size in the polished bore (not so much after it was sandlbasted...) It should be installed loose and with the actuator arm mounted and then wiggled while closing the actuator until the plate is 90 degrees or as close as possible to the bore. Then the screws can be installed, tightened and peened. Then you need to set the throttle body stop, which you didn't do, using a feeler gauge between the bore and butterfly. Also it would be worth changing the bearings in the throttle body which I don't think you did. Mainly to stop vac leaks. The TPS was not tested or adjusted properly. There is no gasket between the throttle body heater port and throttle body. The throttle body shaft was installed into the bore incorrectly. Tape should be wrapped around the centre cut in the shaft that accepts the butterfly plate, the edges on it are extremely sharp and you jammed it in with no rotation, likely scored the seals inside those needle bearings.
18:14 The shaft seal for the power steering pump has been cerakoted... I.e has been left in during a baking process. It'll be ruined. Absolutely no lubrication was used during the installation of the vanes and seals... The circlip for the power steering pump drive looks stretched and damaged, needs to be replaced.
My friend was using cerakote in 2019 to paint guns for other people. He talked about how amazing it was and the benefits of it over paint. Used it since guns would get so hot.
Great work!! with each passing new episode things are getting more and more professional in the work shop and the rigorous training that your achieving it will pay off in dividends. Much respect for you.. Oh and it's a "Fricken Laser"
Thank you, Dyson! With the new workshop things are getting good now. I can't wait to bring you more fricken lasers!
Just researched novol, great products!
Its amazing what they offer for classic cars. Especially the sprayable filler with aluminium inside sounds interesting. Finally no cracking and sinking filler anymore. Thanks for showing their products.
You've a long way steve. It's incredible. The end result was worth the adverts.
I’ve spent the last few weekends rust treating, priming and painting the rear of my Discovery chassis,and numerous fittings ... thought i was doing ok till i saw your progress .... ho hum ......
Looking forward to your next video, where no doubt i’ll feel even more deflated lol.
Qué alegría volver a verte con un proyecto de coche y con tu nuevo taller profesional!!! Deseando ver un nuevo episodio
So happy I have more of your content to consume. I was looking forward seeing how the new shop and the upgrades have been working out for you. One could say I'm blinded by the light of your...progress... and laser 😅 Cheers and all the best in future projects!
Thank you, Curionimbus! The laser truly is blinding! Goggles at all times. Cheers!
Wow!! That’s awesome work Steve
OMG. I was NOT READY for how goddamned EPIC this episode was going to be!!!
13:00 THERES OUR BOY!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥
WOWW….watching you sandblast with the new powerful equipment is SOOOO SATISFYING!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Been watching the channel for years through your move and all, your work is looking very professional mate keep it up!
What an inspiration. Makes me want to seek out my own local manufacturing technologies.
Hi Steve, good to see you again. I know what some commenters mean about the massive amount of advertisement content, it is a bit wearing. Having said that, I assume once you get most of the gear you need, you can just crack on with the job. I am 71 now and still dabbling in the resto game (currently working on a BMW E31). I have made tons of mistakes . On a subject of coatings, a pro paint sprayer friend of mine swears by the Novol epoxy primer, uses it on everything. Beware of poor adhesion after wire brushing. All wire brushes, particularly new ones, contain oil and force it into the metal. They also leave a polished finish rather than a "tooth". If you can, degrease thoroughly with a water based degreaser (all the Bilt Hamber products are excellent, by the way) after wire brushing, then sand as much as you can to 80 grit, then epoxy prime. I'm sure the Novol black stuff will be good, but Rustbuster make a product called Epoxy Mastic which is a fantastic coating for suspension and under-body parts. Take a look at the Bilt Hamber Atom Mac to protect bare steel from flash rusting. I've just ordered some, but the reviews and tests are amazing, it looks a bit like witchcraft at first!
Hey, good to see you! Exactly that, Bob. I want to make sure these companies get the exposure they deserve, regardless of what anyone else thinks. I know it looks like I've gone advertising mad, but that's the new workshop took ages and was completed only with a lot of support from companies. This new workshop and all of the new tools (all of which I wouldn't have been able to afford without their support) are going to allow me to make weekly content again, whilst working towards two videos a week. Some episodes will have no talking at all, like the old style to make this possible.
I've now introduced Cerakote (whom I approached) and LaserTec who will both regularly be seen on the channel in the coming episodes, not as a sponsor, but as part of the episode itself.
And thank you for the advice there. Very useful indeed. I will change how I prep for the epoxy primer and will also look into Bilt Hamber's stuff. Thank you!
@@RestoreIt Forgot to mention, I originally put my faith in POR15, and it is absolutely useless. Also, I am on a tight budget and have to save money where I can, so I have to consider aftermarket parts. However, I try to choose my makes, and do not fear using Lemforder, Febi/Bilstein, Mahle, Elring, Victor Reinz, Sachs, Nissens, Vaico and LUK/Schaffler for mechanical parts and gaskets, I am using Pierburg, Bosch, Hella and Magneti Marelli for electrical items and sensors. E.g. there are 4 knock sensors on the 840Ci, all mine have crumbled away to nothing, they are still available from BMW at £120 each. They are a Bosch sensor, which is available from many sources at around £33. Obviously, if you can afford it, go for genuine BMW every time.
Great video,to bad you had to redo the parts,but having them volunteer the use of the laser,impressive job.great.glad to see you working on the bmw.keep on doing what your doing 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Thanks, Tom! Yes, LaserTec are cool guys indeed!
The best thing for parts like hubs/cvs ect is plating, i've got plated parts that are still shiny after years of use 👍
Wow. saw all your restoration videos and always thought how clean and nice your coating is. so pity that you have to do all again on that parts. and wow. this laser is insane. whats the output power of it?
full respect for the dedication to do it all again. i think i would never do this again
You should try using liquid nitrogen to freeze the undercoating and then crush it with the hammer. Saw it work on extremely thick audi undercoating
This is a very interesting idea and one I will be looking into, cheers!
Ah the joys of project cars.
Joys/Nightmares its all the same really!
Besides the great content you been bringing years now, since I started watching the channel in the beginning. I never though how patient you must be Bro, until now. I know you have a lot of mad skills, and attention to detail, but the patience you have is out of this world. Can only wish you the most success ever. And by the way that laser blew my mind. Question, how much power the laser machine consumes?
Hey dude! Good to see you. Thanks a lot, man! I always appreciate your comments. The pulse laser is only 300W. I'm not sure exactly how much it pulls, but you can find them here - www.p-laser.com/ (not that anyone can afford one!)
Those pieces look so good man, you are becoming such a proffesional. I still remember the video of the rocker cover...
Best video in some time, and it was awesome! Looking forward to more.
Love the content!
Wow, that laser cleaning is amazing.
Great stuff! Nothing beats epoxy primer thats for sure
As for cerakote, it seems like its similar to powdercoating?
One suggestion i have is to make some tests.
You did say it offers excellent protection, but there were no tests in the video.
Laser blaster was love at first sight for me.
It's such a cool machine.
Are we expecting more content on this channel weekly rather than 1 episode a month
Weekly episodes will be returning now that the new workshop is finished, yes.
One bond and Cerakote 🤩 wow so many awesome recommendations in this episode. Freaking amazing work 🥰😍😁 absolutely love the channel. Love seeing the work being done right. We have come a long way from a garage in Spain (I know I keep saying that but it’s true LOL. 😂)
Thanks, tinman! Good to see you. yes... A long, long way! With the new workshop, I feel like this is just the start!
I wouldn’t miss these videos for anything. Their high point of my TH-cam subscription 🥰😎@@RestoreIt
Surely this build will be entered for a "Bebble Beach" of some kind at some point in future...😂❤
A$150k laser sounds like one really expensive eraser for mistakes. Thanks for the video.
Cheers!
Awesome video keep up the good work
Thats a beast, we all want one. How much electric does it consume when in use?
Might be beneficial to add som type of oil or wd40 to any bare metall. To prevent the same rusting to happen while parts are stored....
You should try ice blasting for the underseal
I wanna see the laser vs Cerakote!
This is going to happen. Brilliant idea!
@@RestoreIt And maybe Cerakote vs dry shot blasting? :)
Laser rust removal is so friggin COOL!!!!
Its restoration porn at its finest
It really is a dream machine!
Left a comment suggesting epoxy primer back in 2018. It's the only way to go.
Steve, great work here! Any thoughts of adding a vapor blasting cabinet to your arsenal of tools?
Hey, Jeff! Yes, lots of thought has gone into it, I do want one and I will eventually get one. But for now dry shot blasting is good for what I'm doing.
@@RestoreIt Steve, one additional question - how does Cerakote compare to powder coating for durability? I'm sure Cerakote is thinner, but I'm guessing the heat curing is similar so maybe durability is equal?
@@jeffhammond8969Durability of powder coat is far more inferior in every single metric compared to cerakote. Impact, scratches, UV fading…
Man, if I had one of these I'd actually be willing to do more on my e34
Thankfully I think its made of steel, not whatever terrifying alloy "bear metal" is
I'm sorry if this comes across as a mean or negative, but this video felt like a big advertisement rather than a restoration video. This seems to happen to a lot of youtubers as their channels grow, especially in the maker communities. I hope that this is not a trend going forward and will have just been a one time thing to welcome new sponsors or something like that.
Thanks for your comment Trainwreck. let me just say that this wont be the norm for the channel. With all of this new equiptment I now have I will be producting at least one video a week. Some with no talking at all, like the originial style of the channel. I have a lot of people to thank for where I am today, as well as the regular sponsors that make this channel possible. Stay tuned and you'll see what this new workshop is going to do for the channel. Cheers!
I'm glad to hear, I love your content and the new work shop is great!
Restoreit has to have a meal to bring this free video to you. No need to run and buy a box of thread sealer.
I have to agree. Don't get me wrong I love what you're doing and appreciate you sharing the content with all of us. Since you started working on the current workshop however there has been an overwhelming amount of sponsors and associated advertising in your videos. Would there be a way for us viewers to help you out so that you are less dependent on the advertising?
@@Trainwreck1123just be grateful it's related to fixing cars and not hello food or yfresh or some stupid games.
omg thats alot of work my friend
Have to be honest and say I don't much fancy the laser on anything but lightly rusted parts. Retro Power also wasn't that keen when it featured on Ed China's chanel with him trying it out on a Range Rover chassis. Shot blasting still seems the way to go.
Shot blasting is more definetly more efficient, I'm with you there. But, what i like about the laser is that is can remove paint and rust without needing to dismantle everything or put it into a blasting machine that will cover everything in media. It's used more on old oak beams, fireplaces, factory machines and all kinds of niche stuff. This was just an introduction to LaserTec, we're going to work mainly on antiques in the future.
You know what they say... "filler and paint will make you the welder you ain't"
Wow, it's amazing 😍👏
I neeeeed one!
the pulse lasers are pretty expensive
but try chinese linear lasers for 10.000€+
they transfer more temperature on the metall but they work great 🤘
Re you sure that tps is adjusted correctly, you just screw it down, but if it is not clicking when throtle body is in parked position, then your idle control valve will not get signal to turn on, and your car will not idle and will shut down...
With all the ads it’s like watching wheeler dealers on cable tv 😅
Love the videos man! Keep it up!
I've never liked etch primer when painted over it mostly never bond with the paint so I use anti corrosion epoxy, then base, then 2k clear coat and it never chip for underboady pard. I did my rear subframe and replaced all the control arm that I cleared over the original finish. They didn't rust, it's been 4 years and I live in canada. The shop that sold me the paint told me "epoxy then let cure for 16 to 24h max(otherwise reprime), sand reprime if needed(again need to wait 16 to 24h) or base coat x amount of layer, wait an hour after the last coat and clear. CC cure time was never the same I had to wait weeks to be sandable otherwise it would be too soft and make big scratch. I did once in october, had to wait until may to sand, he gave me a all round hardner so when very hot was a little to fast but below 15C its weeks but I drive it a week after spray since the surface was hard enought.
I did a trailer that way for a friend taht laod gravel and stuff, so it scratched a lot since then and the primer is still holding even with the paint gone is some places, scraping with a shovel in gravel is tought on paint
Been down the Cerakote route, didn’t last 6 months on my callipers. Not for me.
That fuel tank link pipe is around £130 new from BMW !
Ha! I paid £170 when I bought it! :'(
amazing restoration 👍
23:41 unfortunately the 042 will not help you in the apllication you used it right here. The threads are not what's sealing, the olives (metal cones on ends of the pipe) do the sealing part. Just make sure to tighten the nuts sufficiently and you're good.
Austin Powers... LASERS!
Can't wait to the the car done but I must say this video felt like just one long ad
You put the alternator together twisted....apart from that...great video
How much commercial do you want ?
Restore it: "YA !"
hi mate, what have you done to stop parts flash rusting straight after stripping?
AWESOME
THANKS!
Can you apply cerakote to a manifold and not have any issues with rust?
Thats just one big ad, otherwise great content. I lost count how many times i heard onebond...
OneBond were the only Sponsor of this epsidoe. Everyone else has supported the channel and I'll be supporting them. Sorry if its not for you!
Dry ice for the underside maybe?
Yes i'm going to expore this, it sounds ideal!
DO NOT BURN OFF THE UNDERSEAL
It is PVC Based and releases HCL
The seam sealer is of same formulation between panels
The heat will cause HCL trapped between panels and your car will rot
I THOUGHT WE ESTABLISH THAT I'M GOING GOING TO IN THE EPISODE?
I don't want to be a dick especially as you are redoing things but I'm a bit worried about the adhesion with novol epoxy on parts you wire wheeled/laser cleaned. Ideally needs to be blasted to provide the key. Wire wheels polish the surface and the epoxy can come off in sheets.
@@SamCalvercorrect about the epoxy, that could be an issue. Also the fact that he has used the polycoat protect straight over the top of the epoxy without keying the surface first. Novol FCC epoxy can’t be used as a wet on wet application, unless it’s their hybrid epoxy which isn’t what was used in this video
Thanks for the info guys!
So we have a advertising video for a oven to look forward to?
yes i remember pipe cost is 170£
I’d guess the E30 has been educational for everyone. Maybe not the pros in the audience lol.
Definetly not the pro's, haha.
@@RestoreItMe neither
What is the name of the color on the coprus of the generator? 4:50
that fuel tank connector pipe in 23:56 it cost like 150-190€, so way too expensive for me...
Powder coated lasts
This is industrial grade protection
Great video, when I grow up I want to be you.
TFS❗️ 25:03
If you want to be very picky about rust, my suggestion is to never touch bare metal bare handed. I myself have specially agressive sweat, I've learned my lesson already, as I turn everything I touch to rust, like some cursed Midas.
21:13 I'm confused. How can epoxy primer mechanically bond to metal (mentioned in 11:21) surface when anti-corrosion red is in the way? Red paint is not even chemically proof. You didn't show in the video but did you spray white epoxy primer on top of red body panels you you went straight to black top coat?
Hey Ed. It's not red paint. It's an anti corrosion weld-through bodywork primer specifically designed to go under that epoxy primer. It's all on Novols' website under the 'for classic car' range if you're looking for more info. The top coat is 'polycoat protect', which is designed to go over the epoxy primer. Cheers
Have you tried powder coating? I think it's one of the best methods.
I will eventually have a powdercoating set up and booth down the line.
I wouldn’t recommend powder coating for cars. It’s not nearly as durable as cerakote.
If you miss one microscopic water drop on the bare metal and powder coat over it, the entire thing will spider and bubble; so much so that I’m far more stressed prepping for powder coating than any other method.
It’s great for toys and stuff for indoors. Outdoors where durability is required? Don’t use powder coating. The colors fade quicker than others too due to UV exposure.
Firing your laser.
I wish it was mine!
@@RestoreIt one day when the prices come down :D
this build is taking to dam long and dam deep 🙃
👍
works better then your Dremel. LOL.
Savrsen rad