Thank you for being here! If it feels right to you, help me spread the word about this channel… 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder (60 sec): th-cam.com/video/ZQHtrVFUHdk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Robert, we share the same name, thanks for being here. It's always good to see someone in the know. I'm 61 and just started building about 3 yrs back. I hate paying a shop. So I've been able to morph into the automobile world. I'm a 40+ yr. Heavy equipment technician. I learn every day. Thanks.
Thankyou for posting such a clear, informative vid. It's hard to troubleshoot a fault if you don't know just how the part works.You've simplified and demystified the pump assembly and function/operation for me. Thankyou.
You have the Best Instructional video on the 4l60e pump I have watch. Hardly anyone list name of part as they go, explain how each part works , etc... Vey very good video. This my 1st time rebuilding a Transmission ! Decades of Engine rebuilding and most other auto works on a car/ truck, I was always fearful of rebuild of a Transmission ! But now due to funding I am doing it myself. Step by Step Videos are a must ! Thanks for your Time is making the video.
Absolutely fantastic video. I'm so glad I found your channel. Your knowledge is incredible and I think we're all grateful you're willing to share with us. 👍🤙🙏
I just discovered your channel. This is the best training when it comes to valve body operation and how oil flows through one. THANKS. My students are benefitting from your instruction.
This is an excellent, detailed tutorial for beginners on transmission pump. Torque converter has 3 couplings to the transmission side, one is to the transmission input shaft through spline meshing ; 2nd is the torque converter stator hub female splines meshed with the male splines on the stator tube shaft, which is fixed on the back cover of the pump; 3nd one is the torque convertor impeller pump drive tube, it's end has 2 driving notches, that match the tongues on the vane pump rotor.
Right on! The feedback is appreciated. Recently put together a Torque Converter video...you might appreciate. TH400 Torque Converter Install (Made EASY): th-cam.com/video/VVdPTmr-3pM/w-d-xo.html
Wow this was great!! From an ignorant amateur regarding automatic transmission internals, I got a lot out of this! Thanks! --I think I will go change my automatic transmission fluid now!
EXPERT !!! To clear and easy fot to know how to work an oil pump. Mine, of my 2014 Korando C was dammaged, and here in HN is very rare a well repair or solution. Reggards...
I just recently started viewing your videos and so far I love everyone specifically now that I encounter a problem with late 4l60e 06 and up with 2-3 fair
For any gear to occur (1st/2nd/3rd/4th/Reverse/etc), there are two members of the planetary gear set that need to be manipulated, at the same time. The clutches, the band, and the one-way clutches are used to manipulate the planetary gear set of the 4L60E. In most cases, one clutch will supply rotation (engine power) to the gear set, while another clutch (clutch/band/one-way) will prevent rotation, of a different part of the gear set. Learn More: 4L60E planetary gear set operation. (20:24 min) th-cam.com/video/QjT0CUG73YM/w-d-xo.html 2nd Gear: 1). Forward Clutch. 2). 2-4 Band. 3rd Gear: 1). Forward Clutch. 2). 3-4 Clutch. 3-4 clutch failure is very common on the 4L60E. It's possible that they may be starting to fail on your 4L60E. I'm glad that you're enjoying the videos. Thanks for dropping me a line!
You are doing a great job, you can tell how familiar a speaker is by the ease and clarity that they can explain something. Thanks, I subscribed and I'm looking forward to your upcoming videos.
I have watched this video at least 10 times. Excellent content. I rebuilt a 4l60e and it lasted about 3,000 miles then started to flare in 3 and 4 and upon disassembly of course the clutches were fried. I connected the pressure gauge to the tranny and it idled at 55 psi but when i blipped the throttle with foot on the brake, the line pressure barely changed, same in reverse. Pump looks fine. air checked the drum, all good. check ball in case didnt not leak. The weird thing was that I was able to attain 275 psi while in reverse and giving it throttle and braking but it took a few seconds and it wasnt immediate. Would an aftermarket cooler affect line pressure? The only thing i didnt change was the boost valve so i have ordered a new one. I pray this solves my low line pressure.
I started my freshly built 5.3 engine with transmission hooked up. I had done nothing to the transmission and realized pan was just about empty. I know I had fluid in the converter but my question is, do you think I damaged the pump? I started like 4 times for less than 20 seconds each time and never took it out of park.
Excellent video. I just replaced my stripped sunshell and saw lots of goo in my pan. I want to make sure my transmission cooler lines are not clogged. I tried blowing into the hot line at the trany and put a mini balloon on my cold line at the tranny. I have to blow kind of moderate to get the ballon to get any air. Is this expected or do I have a clog? Is there a correct test for my cooler lines?
Have you had much experience or problems with the 1-2 accumulator valve in the VALVE BODY? The sleeve is supposed to work as the seal against the VB casting, but vacuum testing this shows to be a very loose fit/big hydraulic leak at best. Today I had one blowing air out of that valve bore on the pin retainer side. I was air checking the actuation of the valve using a flat plate, and could feel the air coming out of the VB bore on the pin side, blowing back towards me. I then did a vacuum test-12 in. lb. was the best it would hold. I wrapped a red shop towel in plastic and stuffed it in the end of the bore and voila-22 in. lbs.... I then did a wet test by filling one cavity with oil, then added air pressure to the same cavity with my checker plate, and oil was moving between the sleeve, and bore going back in towards the valve body, and also coming out between the sleeve and VB on the pin retainer side. I solved this dilemma by cutting an O-ring groove into the outside body of the sleeve so that it would intersect with the casting bore. Then on the outboard side, I made a "plug" or "cork" that had 2 Orings-one on either end that would seal against the ID of the bore when inserted. I pushed that plug into place, and tested again 24 in. lbs. now... This shows me that the inner valve has very little wear on the inside of the sleeve, but that the sleeve to bore sealing is practically non-existent. I'd like to talk with you more about this if/when you have time. I sent you a PM with my phone number. I'm not sure that this is even important because of how little time the unit usually spends in 2nd gear.. however... it could mean a pressure drop on a 1-2 shift, and potentially under full throttle on the 1-2 it could result in band slippage and eventually burn up. I LOVE your videos by the way. I'm learning things with every one I watch.
Howdy, have a question. I'm replacing the pump on a 4L60E from an 2007 H3 hummer, and I've been presented with 2 options, one with an ISS hole, and one without. Can't find a reference as to what this is or which one I need. Do you know? Thanks.
You're very welcome. I'm glad you found it useful/entertaining. Thanks for taking the time to drop me a line. PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's some easy ways to share... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) th-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/w-d-xo.html How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview) th-cam.com/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/w-d-xo.html
Engines have started using variable displacement vane pumps too, the 5th gen GM LS based and the Chrysler Pentastar are a couple of examples. Both have an on/off solenoid that (I think) change the slide pressure to change the output pressure. Technophobes as per usual are complaining about this design despite its advantages and long history in the 700R4/4L60/4L60e as you show. So far the weaknesses appear to be solenoid failure/sticking on both, and slide breakage on the GM side. Per the scan tool on the Chrysler side the oil pressure at hot highway cruise is roughly 40 PSIG and when the solenoid is actuated for WOT acceleration it peaks at 100 PSIG. The higher pressure would of course tend to better protect the bearings but I would imagine it is also to increase the slew rate of the cam phasers and improve their response time for each shift. The Chrysler one is also a standalone unit driven by a short timing chain so for demonstration purposes you may be able to modify it for manual slide movement and spin it with a drill in a tub of fluid to show how the pumped volume changes as the slide is moved. Also when comparing fixed VS variable and wasted power you could have used the formula: HP = PSI * GPM / 1714 IE say the engine or transmission needs 2 GPM of flow. A fixed pump is flowing say 10 GPM at 100 PSI so it is outputting .583 HP, 80% of which in this example is wasted as heat, while the variable would just turn down to the needed 2 GPM and only put out .117 HP instead.
hey,thanks for the help with my no first gear, its still is working great,but the front seal and most likely the bushing are leaking, can i replace these just my removing the pump, and not take the trans apart
Glad it worked out (04 Trailblazer, no 1st gear...sometimes). Yes, that's a common practice. At any point in time we are working on a number of video projects. We've actually got one in the works on the 700-R4 (which is very similar to the 4L60E). It's leaking out the front...just like your 4L60E. This video may not go live for a couple more months. These videos take a lot of hours to produce. Not sure what your time-line is on your repair, but thought I'd throw that out there.
Do you have a link to the two springs on the torque converter valve? Mine are bent sideways for some reason and every time I look up one of these new valves it only has a single spring.
Robert, I stumbled upon your videos and they are the best on TH-cam. I have an unusual problem with my transmission that I would love to discuss with you. How can I reach you?
hi bro. I'm very curious what is the reason for breaking the oil pump of the 4l60 gearbox. I couldn't get a logical answer from the websites I researched
The pump can break for a number of reasons. Incorrect torque converter spacing, hydraulic pressure spike, etc. I'll see about doing a video on this topic...when time permits.
Thanks for dropping me a line, Ted! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) th-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/w-d-xo.html
I got a used 5.3. The shop pulled the pan to show me how clean the pan was and forgot to put the filter back on. I did a LS swap and ran the motor to warm it up and check for engine temperature and leaks. At one point it ran for 20 minutes or so to get the temp up. I then found out that I had no gears in the 4l65e. After pulling the pan I seen there was no filter to pick up fluid from the pan. I ordered a new filter, but wondering if anyone thinks that it screwed up something else? I took it down to the pump and the rotor doesn’t look bad? Will it be ok? Thanks
There is a core 4L60 trans available locally. The seller states transmission only operates in reverse and low. Could there be $175 dollars worth of parts left in this unit? Best videos yet on GM transmissions. Thank you!
Right on! Sounds like a problem with the Input Sprag (it's a one-way clutch). If that's the case, you may wind up with a pretty decent 4L60E core. The sprag normally gets replaced during a rebuild. If you watch these two (2) videos, in this order, you'll get a better understanding of what effect the one-way clutch has during normal transmission operation. 4L60E Power Flow (OD Mode): th-cam.com/video/IfOqbTqKubE/w-d-xo.html 4L60E Power Flow (Manual Modes): th-cam.com/video/6kfAuXJFYFE/w-d-xo.html I hope all goes well with your purchase. Thanks for dropping me a line!
I have a 4l60e transmission that will not shift to 3rd or 4th due to something blocking the fluid. Where could that blockage be? The mechanic is saying I need to have it rebuilt. But to me I feel like he ought to be able to find the blockage an clear it. Where dose fluid flow to make it shift to 3rd an 4th?
I'd like to try and get on the same page as you, by asking some questions. When you say that it won't shift to 3rd, does that mean it tries to upshift to 3rd, but the transmission slips (feels like it goes into neutral)(The vehicle stops pulling)??? Or do you mean that it's stuck in 2nd gear? In other words, it'll go from 1st gear, to 2nd gear, but never even try to upshift to 3rd gear...just stays in 2nd gear? If you would, please help me (to help you) by answering those questions. Additionally, please provide some history on the trans. Thank you.
Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) th-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/w-d-xo.html
Hey bud just found you love your videos I have a problem in my 700r4 what would cause the pressure regulator valve to keep coming out nothing breaks but when it starts leaking and I drop the pan it's just laying in my pan all the parts, could the pump housing be wore out or could it be a stuck pressure relief valve really could use your help this makes three times I've had the transmission out I'm frustrated thank you
It sounds like the snap ring is not getting seated into the snap ring groove, all the way. Very easy to overlook... You mentioned leaking... Are you seeing an external leak? When you put the trans into Drive (or Reverse), do you initially feel a bump (into gear), and then nobody is home? Engine just revs but the vehicle doesn't go anywhere, like it's in Neutral?
@@SouthpawAutoworks it runs fine shifts out good a little firm but it's better than soft I can only drive it about 50 miles then it starts pouring like you turned on a faucet and when I drop the pan there's the parts not broke just laying there so could it be the pressure relief valve not relieving pressure
I am building a 4l60e but not using lockup the high stall has been ordered with out lock up my question is blocking the TCC valve by removing 2 springs in pump and replace with suitable in this case .385’ piece of alloy to prevent valve from stroking is this okay? Thanks 🙏 Colin
Right on! Great question, by the way. Unfortunately, I don't have any hands-on experience with this type of modification. However, I do understand how this circuit functions. That being said...I do believe that it will not hurt anything to prevent the TCC Valve (located in pump) from stroking. But, again...I have no experience with this sort of modification. I imagine that you could accomplish the same thing by leaving the TCC Valve-train alone (OEM stack up), and instead modify the TCC Solenoid. The snout could be removed from the solenoid. This way, when the TCC Solenoid is bolted to the pump, there's no way to build oil pressure at the reaction end of the TCC Valve...and the valve will not be able to stroke...ultimately preventing TCC lock-up. Note: Must leave springs installed in TCC valve-train, in order to keep the valve located in the proper position (TCC Off). Six of this, half a dozen of that... Once again, I don't have hands-on experience with this mod....but, those are my thoughts...whatever they're worth.
What would cause all my gears to lose movement after about 1 minute of running ??? It'll run n hit gears before that minute or 3 cuts all movement n go full neutral.
Makes me think of a plugged filter. With the engine running, the pump is drawing fluid from the oil pan, and through the oil filter. If there's a bunch of clutch material in the oil pan (another problem entirely), it'll plug the filter, causing a nuetral-like condition. The pump needs a steady flow of oil in order to supply the clutch packs with enough oil pressure, in order to keep them applied (and not slipping). Once the vehicle is parked, the clutch material (that was previously plugging the filter) will start to fall off the filter, and settle back on the bottom of the pan.
You forgot about talking about the bleed orifice… it was missing in the pump I had and low line pressure was affected big time! Had no kick down and no 4th gear… go and look at the fluid diagram. This bleed orifice missing caused me a lot of sleepless nights
I have not watched this video, in a very long time... But, I imagine I omitted the bleed orifices (like you said), the Pressure Relief Valve, wear at the Pressure Regulator Valve bore, a sticking pump slide, etc. Yes, all of those things can lead to low line pressure...and yes that is a big problem. As you know, there are so many little things that can be easily overlooked during a rebuild. Gotta love stressing about work, from home. haha. I'm trying to keep these videos short, and to-the-point. This one covered basic operation. However, I'd love to circle back and address things like low line pressure. It's a great topic. I'll definitely do this, when time permits... I really appreciate your comment. Thank you for taking the time to drop me a line.
If you have a patreon account please list, as I really enjoyed the content of this video. A picture is worth a thousand words and a video is worth a thousand pictures. I have a pump that allows the line pressure to reach 350 psi in 1 and 2, I'm thinking of reducing the length of the pressure relief spring so I can drop the max pressure. If you get the chance, can you list the length of the pressure relief spring used in the video? Thanks again!
Thank you for that! Your words are appreciated. I'm working on the Patreon page, right now...it has been a work in progress for a long time. Just for clarification, this pump has a Pressure Relief Valve (steel ball, spring, and retaining pin) and a Pressure Regulator Valve (Valve, inner/outer springs, boost valve/sleeve, and retaining snap ring). Here’s the exact part of the video (17:23) that may be helpful: th-cam.com/video/gJ5CdPJoJyg/w-d-xo.html Pressure Relief Spring Length: (Rough measurements with springs relaxed) 2.231" Pressure Regulator Valve Spring Lengths: (Rough measurements with springs relaxed) Outer Spring: 1.730" Inner Spring: 1.055" There are a number of reasons that the line pressure could be higher than normal....but, I'll wait to hear back from you. Thanks for dropping me a line!
Thank you for being here!
If it feels right to you, help me spread the word about this channel…
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder (60 sec): th-cam.com/video/ZQHtrVFUHdk/w-d-xo.html
this is one of the best explanation ive ever watched..
keep it up champ.
That was an incredibly clear and thorough explanation about a topic that is difficult to find in the first place.
Thank you for checking out the video.
Your feedback is appreciated.
Thanks Robert, we share the same name, thanks for being here. It's always good to see someone in the know. I'm 61 and just started building about 3 yrs back. I hate paying a shop. So I've been able to morph into the automobile world. I'm a 40+ yr. Heavy equipment technician. I learn every day. Thanks.
Thankyou for posting such a clear, informative vid. It's hard to troubleshoot a fault if you don't know just how the part works.You've simplified and demystified the pump assembly and function/operation for me. Thankyou.
You nailed it on the head! Knowledge/understanding is power. More videos on this pump are in the works.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Best explanation on the web! And, no AI voice.
Subscribing.
Right on!
Thank you.
Literally better than any other transmission information video I've seen. Didn't get it until now
You have the Best Instructional video on the 4l60e pump I have watch. Hardly anyone list name of part as they go, explain how each part works , etc... Vey very good video. This my 1st time rebuilding a Transmission ! Decades of Engine rebuilding and most other auto works on a car/ truck, I was always fearful of rebuild of a Transmission ! But now due to funding I am doing it myself. Step by Step Videos are a must ! Thanks for your Time is making the video.
Absolutely fantastic video. I'm so glad I found your channel. Your knowledge is incredible and I think we're all grateful you're willing to share with us. 👍🤙🙏
There's two (2) primary joys in life;
Growing.
Giving.
I'm glad you found the channel.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
I just discovered your channel. This is the best training when it comes to valve body operation and how oil flows through one. THANKS. My students are benefitting from your instruction.
Right on! Glad to hear that!
Thank you for dropping me a line. Much appreciated.
I'm sifting through past comments, and came across yours. Thank you again. This one means a lot.
This is an excellent, detailed tutorial for beginners on transmission pump. Torque converter has 3 couplings to the transmission side, one is to the transmission input shaft through spline meshing ; 2nd is the torque converter stator hub female splines meshed with the male splines on the stator tube shaft, which is fixed on the back cover of the pump; 3nd one is the torque convertor impeller pump drive tube, it's end has 2 driving notches, that match the tongues on the vane pump rotor.
Right on! The feedback is appreciated.
Recently put together a Torque Converter video...you might appreciate.
TH400 Torque Converter Install (Made EASY):
th-cam.com/video/VVdPTmr-3pM/w-d-xo.html
Another fascinating vid - now I understand the pump spring action better. I'm increasing my respect for the transmission. haha.
Right on!
I appreciate you dropping me a line.
Wow this was great!! From an ignorant amateur regarding automatic transmission internals, I got a lot out of this! Thanks! --I think I will go change my automatic transmission fluid now!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Righteous Presentation. Thank You For Your Exceptionally Detailed Explanation!! What A Dissertation!!!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Perfectly explained with great visual.
EXPERT !!!
To clear and easy fot to know how to work an oil pump.
Mine, of my 2014 Korando C was dammaged, and here in HN is very rare a well repair or solution.
Reggards...
I just recently started viewing your videos and so far I love everyone specifically now that I encounter a problem with late 4l60e 06 and up with 2-3 fair
For any gear to occur (1st/2nd/3rd/4th/Reverse/etc), there are two members of the planetary gear set that need to be manipulated, at the same time. The clutches, the band, and the one-way clutches are used to manipulate the planetary gear set of the 4L60E.
In most cases, one clutch will supply rotation (engine power) to the gear set, while another clutch (clutch/band/one-way) will prevent rotation, of a different part of the gear set.
Learn More: 4L60E planetary gear set operation. (20:24 min)
th-cam.com/video/QjT0CUG73YM/w-d-xo.html
2nd Gear:
1). Forward Clutch.
2). 2-4 Band.
3rd Gear:
1). Forward Clutch.
2). 3-4 Clutch.
3-4 clutch failure is very common on the 4L60E. It's possible that they may be starting to fail on your 4L60E.
I'm glad that you're enjoying the videos.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
You are doing a great job
You are doing a great job, you can tell how familiar a speaker is by the ease and clarity that they can explain something. Thanks, I subscribed and I'm looking forward to your upcoming videos.
The positive feedback is appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line!
Great detail on pump flow.
Right on.
I have watched this video at least 10 times. Excellent content. I rebuilt a 4l60e and it lasted about 3,000 miles then started to flare in 3 and 4 and upon disassembly of course the clutches were fried. I connected the pressure gauge to the tranny and it idled at 55 psi but when i blipped the throttle with foot on the brake, the line pressure barely changed, same in reverse. Pump looks fine. air checked the drum, all good. check ball in case didnt not leak. The weird thing was that I was able to attain 275 psi while in reverse and giving it throttle and braking but it took a few seconds and it wasnt immediate. Would an aftermarket cooler affect line pressure? The only thing i didnt change was the boost valve so i have ordered a new one. I pray this solves my low line pressure.
I started my freshly built 5.3 engine with transmission hooked up. I had done nothing to the transmission and realized pan was just about empty. I know I had fluid in the converter but my question is, do you think I damaged the pump? I started like 4 times for less than 20 seconds each time and never took it out of park.
Excellent video. I just replaced my stripped sunshell and saw lots of goo in my pan. I want to make sure my transmission cooler lines are not clogged. I tried blowing into the hot line at the trany and put a mini balloon on my cold line at the tranny. I have to blow kind of moderate to get the ballon to get any air. Is this expected or do I have a clog? Is there a correct test for my cooler lines?
Have you had much experience or problems with the 1-2 accumulator valve in the VALVE BODY? The sleeve is supposed to work as the seal against the VB casting, but vacuum testing this shows to be a very loose fit/big hydraulic leak at best. Today I had one blowing air out of that valve bore on the pin retainer side. I was air checking the actuation of the valve using a flat plate, and could feel the air coming out of the VB bore on the pin side, blowing back towards me. I then did a vacuum test-12 in. lb. was the best it would hold. I wrapped a red shop towel in plastic and stuffed it in the end of the bore and voila-22 in. lbs.... I then did a wet test by filling one cavity with oil, then added air pressure to the same cavity with my checker plate, and oil was moving between the sleeve, and bore going back in towards the valve body, and also coming out between the sleeve and VB on the pin retainer side. I solved this dilemma by cutting an O-ring groove into the outside body of the sleeve so that it would intersect with the casting bore. Then on the outboard side, I made a "plug" or "cork" that had 2 Orings-one on either end that would seal against the ID of the bore when inserted. I pushed that plug into place, and tested again 24 in. lbs. now... This shows me that the inner valve has very little wear on the inside of the sleeve, but that the sleeve to bore sealing is practically non-existent. I'd like to talk with you more about this if/when you have time. I sent you a PM with my phone number. I'm not sure that this is even important because of how little time the unit usually spends in 2nd gear.. however... it could mean a pressure drop on a 1-2 shift, and potentially under full throttle on the 1-2 it could result in band slippage and eventually burn up. I LOVE your videos by the way. I'm learning things with every one I watch.
What causes 2nd and overdrive to stop workinf on a 2008 tahoe 4L60E
Howdy, have a question. I'm replacing the pump on a 4L60E from an 2007 H3 hummer, and I've been presented with 2 options, one with an ISS hole, and one without. Can't find a reference as to what this is or which one I need. Do you know? Thanks.
This is a wonderful and informative video , thank you for making it
You're very welcome. I'm glad you found it useful/entertaining.
Thanks for taking the time to drop me a line.
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
Here's some easy ways to share...
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
th-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/w-d-xo.html
How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview)
th-cam.com/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/w-d-xo.html
Engines have started using variable displacement vane pumps too, the 5th gen GM LS based and the Chrysler Pentastar are a couple of examples. Both have an on/off solenoid that (I think) change the slide pressure to change the output pressure. Technophobes as per usual are complaining about this design despite its advantages and long history in the 700R4/4L60/4L60e as you show. So far the weaknesses appear to be solenoid failure/sticking on both, and slide breakage on the GM side.
Per the scan tool on the Chrysler side the oil pressure at hot highway cruise is roughly 40 PSIG and when the solenoid is actuated for WOT acceleration it peaks at 100 PSIG.
The higher pressure would of course tend to better protect the bearings but I would imagine it is also to increase the slew rate of the cam phasers and improve their response time for each shift.
The Chrysler one is also a standalone unit driven by a short timing chain so for demonstration purposes you may be able to modify it for manual slide movement and spin it with a drill in a tub of fluid to show how the pumped volume changes as the slide is moved.
Also when comparing fixed VS variable and wasted power you could have used the formula: HP = PSI * GPM / 1714
IE say the engine or transmission needs 2 GPM of flow. A fixed pump is flowing say 10 GPM at 100 PSI so it is outputting .583 HP, 80% of which in this example is wasted as heat, while the variable would just turn down to the needed 2 GPM and only put out .117 HP instead.
Right on! Thanks for your input.
This is a great explanation. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I I have rebuilt transmission since I was in high school. I never understood these new final pumps. They are different from the TH 350 & TH 400 pumps.
Right on.
Yeah, there's a little more to the newer ones.
hey,thanks for the help with my no first gear, its still is working great,but the front seal and most likely the bushing are leaking, can i replace these just my removing the pump, and not take the trans apart
Glad it worked out (04 Trailblazer, no 1st gear...sometimes).
Yes, that's a common practice.
At any point in time we are working on a number of video projects.
We've actually got one in the works on the 700-R4 (which is very similar to the 4L60E). It's leaking out the front...just like your 4L60E.
This video may not go live for a couple more months. These videos take a lot of hours to produce.
Not sure what your time-line is on your repair, but thought I'd throw that out there.
Do you have a link to the two springs on the torque converter valve? Mine are bent sideways for some reason and every time I look up one of these new valves it only has a single spring.
Unfortunately, I do not.
Robert, I stumbled upon your videos and they are the best on TH-cam. I have an unusual problem with my transmission that I would love to discuss with you. How can I reach you?
The positive feedback is appreciated.
For the time being, this (comments section) is the best way to reach me.
hi bro. I'm very curious what is the reason for breaking the oil pump of the 4l60 gearbox. I couldn't get a logical answer from the websites I researched
The pump can break for a number of reasons. Incorrect torque converter spacing, hydraulic pressure spike, etc.
I'll see about doing a video on this topic...when time permits.
Well done.
Thanks for dropping me a line, Ted!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
th-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/w-d-xo.html
I got a used 5.3.
The shop pulled the pan to show me how clean the pan was and forgot to put the filter back on.
I did a LS swap and ran the motor to warm it up and check for engine temperature and leaks. At one point it ran for 20 minutes or so to get the temp up.
I then found out that I had no gears in the 4l65e.
After pulling the pan I seen there was no filter to pick up fluid from the pan.
I ordered a new filter, but wondering if anyone thinks that it screwed up something else? I took it down to the pump and the rotor doesn’t look bad?
Will it be ok?
Thanks
Very good ! Thankyou.
You bet!
Thanks i learn so mutch
Right on!
There is a core 4L60 trans available locally. The seller states transmission only operates in reverse and low. Could there be $175 dollars worth of parts left in this unit? Best videos yet on GM transmissions. Thank you!
Right on!
Sounds like a problem with the Input Sprag (it's a one-way clutch). If that's the case, you may wind up with a pretty decent 4L60E core. The sprag normally gets replaced during a rebuild.
If you watch these two (2) videos, in this order, you'll get a better understanding of what effect the one-way clutch has during normal transmission operation.
4L60E Power Flow (OD Mode): th-cam.com/video/IfOqbTqKubE/w-d-xo.html
4L60E Power Flow (Manual Modes): th-cam.com/video/6kfAuXJFYFE/w-d-xo.html
I hope all goes well with your purchase.
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I have a 4l60e transmission that will not shift to 3rd or 4th due to something blocking the fluid. Where could that blockage be? The mechanic is saying I need to have it rebuilt. But to me I feel like he ought to be able to find the blockage an clear it. Where dose fluid flow to make it shift to 3rd an 4th?
I'd like to try and get on the same page as you, by asking some questions.
When you say that it won't shift to 3rd, does that mean it tries to upshift to 3rd, but the transmission slips (feels like it goes into neutral)(The vehicle stops pulling)???
Or do you mean that it's stuck in 2nd gear? In other words, it'll go from 1st gear, to 2nd gear, but never even try to upshift to 3rd gear...just stays in 2nd gear?
If you would, please help me (to help you) by answering those questions. Additionally, please provide some history on the trans. Thank you.
Very Informative. Thank you
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PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
th-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/w-d-xo.html
Will transmission work if some forgot to put filter inside of trans
No.
Would have to overfill the trans, in order to make it temporarily work. But, overfilling the trans creates problems.
I've been to Phoenix many times, always to buy and drive back a rust free something or other
Right on.
Great video, but I cannot find part 2?
I think I need to rename this video......there is no part 2. =/
The positive feedback is appreciated.
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Excellent video.
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Hey bud just found you love your videos I have a problem in my 700r4 what would cause the pressure regulator valve to keep coming out nothing breaks but when it starts leaking and I drop the pan it's just laying in my pan all the parts, could the pump housing be wore out or could it be a stuck pressure relief valve really could use your help this makes three times I've had the transmission out I'm frustrated thank you
It sounds like the snap ring is not getting seated into the snap ring groove, all the way. Very easy to overlook...
You mentioned leaking...
Are you seeing an external leak?
When you put the trans into Drive (or Reverse), do you initially feel a bump (into gear), and then nobody is home? Engine just revs but the vehicle doesn't go anywhere, like it's in Neutral?
@@SouthpawAutoworks it runs fine shifts out good a little firm but it's better than soft I can only drive it about 50 miles then it starts pouring like you turned on a faucet and when I drop the pan there's the parts not broke just laying there so could it be the pressure relief valve not relieving pressure
I am building a 4l60e but not using lockup the high stall has been ordered with out lock up my question is blocking the TCC valve by removing 2 springs in pump and replace with suitable in this case .385’ piece of alloy to prevent valve from stroking is this okay?
Thanks 🙏
Colin
Right on!
Great question, by the way.
Unfortunately, I don't have any hands-on experience with this type of modification.
However, I do understand how this circuit functions.
That being said...I do believe that it will not hurt anything to prevent the TCC Valve (located in pump) from stroking. But, again...I have no experience with this sort of modification.
I imagine that you could accomplish the same thing by leaving the TCC Valve-train alone (OEM stack up), and instead modify the TCC Solenoid.
The snout could be removed from the solenoid. This way, when the TCC Solenoid is bolted to the pump, there's no way to build oil pressure at the reaction end of the TCC Valve...and the valve will not be able to stroke...ultimately preventing TCC lock-up.
Note: Must leave springs installed in TCC valve-train, in order to keep the valve located in the proper position (TCC Off).
Six of this, half a dozen of that...
Once again, I don't have hands-on experience with this mod....but, those are my thoughts...whatever they're worth.
What would cause all my gears to lose movement after about 1 minute of running ???
It'll run n hit gears before that minute or 3 cuts all movement n go full neutral.
Makes me think of a plugged filter.
With the engine running, the pump is drawing fluid from the oil pan, and through the oil filter.
If there's a bunch of clutch material in the oil pan (another problem entirely), it'll plug the filter, causing a nuetral-like condition. The pump needs a steady flow of oil in order to supply the clutch packs with enough oil pressure, in order to keep them applied (and not slipping).
Once the vehicle is parked, the clutch material (that was previously plugging the filter) will start to fall off the filter, and settle back on the bottom of the pan.
You forgot about talking about the bleed orifice… it was missing in the pump I had and low line pressure was affected big time! Had no kick down and no 4th gear… go and look at the fluid diagram. This bleed orifice missing caused me a lot of sleepless nights
I have not watched this video, in a very long time...
But, I imagine I omitted the bleed orifices (like you said), the Pressure Relief Valve, wear at the Pressure Regulator Valve bore, a sticking pump slide, etc.
Yes, all of those things can lead to low line pressure...and yes that is a big problem.
As you know, there are so many little things that can be easily overlooked during a rebuild. Gotta love stressing about work, from home. haha.
I'm trying to keep these videos short, and to-the-point. This one covered basic operation. However, I'd love to circle back and address things like low line pressure. It's a great topic.
I'll definitely do this, when time permits...
I really appreciate your comment.
Thank you for taking the time to drop me a line.
Outstanding
Good to hear from you, again.
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Could you hook up a tranny fluid temp sensor on that same port you can hook up the pressure gauge?
Great video by the way
Yes...I believe it's a common practice.
Thank you for the positive feedback.
Yesssssir
If you have a patreon account please list, as I really enjoyed the content of this video. A picture is worth a thousand words and a video is worth a thousand pictures. I have a pump that allows the line pressure to reach 350 psi in 1 and 2, I'm thinking of reducing the length of the pressure relief spring so I can drop the max pressure. If you get the chance, can you list the length of the pressure relief spring used in the video? Thanks again!
Thank you for that! Your words are appreciated.
I'm working on the Patreon page, right now...it has been a work in progress for a long time.
Just for clarification, this pump has a Pressure Relief Valve (steel ball, spring, and retaining pin) and a Pressure Regulator Valve (Valve, inner/outer springs, boost valve/sleeve, and retaining snap ring). Here’s the exact part of the video (17:23) that may be helpful: th-cam.com/video/gJ5CdPJoJyg/w-d-xo.html
Pressure Relief Spring Length:
(Rough measurements with springs relaxed)
2.231"
Pressure Regulator Valve Spring Lengths:
(Rough measurements with springs relaxed)
Outer Spring: 1.730"
Inner Spring: 1.055"
There are a number of reasons that the line pressure could be higher than normal....but, I'll wait to hear back from you.
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Per your request, here it is. Thanks for your consideration! Much appreciated! www.patreon.com/southpawautoworks
1st, from 55f upstate NE New York
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I got a 2001 f150 shutters bad 2 3