Thank you for being here! If it feels right to you, help me spread the word about this channel… 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder (60 sec): th-cam.com/video/ZQHtrVFUHdk/w-d-xo.html
Kewl! I'm currently experiencing an occasional hard slam into reverse from park on a 1993 C1500 5.7l with 235k miles. This video was very helpful in understanding part of the reverse hydraulic circuit. First up on the attempts to fix is a new TPS (throttle position sensor). Obviously, the ECM gets some of its information about engine load from the TPS. If that glitches, it could be commanding harsher pressures for the shift to reverse. Thanks for taking the time, effort, and expenditures in hard cash resources (video and illustrative equipment) to produce these quality presentations. They are detailed and extremely informative!
Hi Im a GM technician and liked this 4l60e series very well made and good information, can you make one on 4l80e and the slight differences from oil/ pressure flow from the 4l60e? I can provide all the GM documents needed for the video if you'd like.
I also have a 1990 4x4 suburban 1500. Original 700 R4, I just drove it back from Florida, 1500miles, towing a heavy load, and it shifts very nice and soft, typical GM. And when it's hot cold, when you put it in drive it clunks extremely harshly. It's not the ujoints, I just changed 1. I didn't put a new accumulator in the aux valve body, as per friend's recommendation, it still does the same thing. Hot or cold, and it's only occasional. If I put it into 3rd drive. Not overdrive, it doesn't do it. Only when you put it into overdrive, and this of course standing still, normal idle speed
Hi Robert , Great videos ,i have been rebuilding 4l60e since the late 90s. Learned a few things regarding the oil flow paths and how they work. I live in Australia and 4l60/ 4l60e is a very common trans Regard Aaron
Since the 90's? Right on!! It's crazy how many vehicles this trans is equipped in... Appreciate you you checking out the video. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) th-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/w-d-xo.html How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview) th-cam.com/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/w-d-xo.html
I had a late 80s, aux valve body, 700R4 rebuilt for my 1984 6.2 diesel 4x4 suburban. The shop is very reputable, I know that it's a good job, I'm friendly with the owner. It shifts rock hard, which I'm fine with, because I use it for heavy towing. The only problem I have is problem but it sits for a day or 2, it takes forever to go into the driver or reverse. What is causing the fluid prime to bleed off?
It sounds like a drain-back issue. The pump is responsible for multiple tasks. One of those tasks is filling up the torque converter with fluid. If the converter is low on fluid, it will not allow engine torque to reach the input shaft of the trans. If the vehicle is parked for days, it's possible for the torque converter to partially drain back into the pan. This, of course, is not normal. When the converter is partially drained, the pump needs time to fill it back up, before the vehicle will move again. A worn pump bushing can cause this issue. If the bushing is indeed the issue, I'd also be looking at the dowel pins on the engine, and the corresponding pilot holes on the trans bell housing. If these are worn, it can allow for a misalignment, putting extra stress on the pump bushing....causing premature wear.
A tip I picked up years ago was to bolt housing to engine and have a dial indicator in flywheel or crank or flex plate whatever and check run out with the trans or bellhousing on the block you were using together, surprising how many times there is a stack up mismatch of production tolerances that cause bearing failures
I purchased several “O” ringed (outer portion) boost sleeve/boost valve assemblies that were made by the Sonnax company. Stick dementions are 0.471 (reverse boost) and 0.421 (load boost). The Sonnax valve is 0.531 and 0.491 respectively compared. This seems like a lot to me (the amount of increase)! I have yet to experience the effects that the larger valve may have. Any idea what I should expect? The first one is installed in a pump with a new oversized pressure regulator valve needed to restore sealing integrity to the pump.
GREAT VIDEOS!! I Subscribed. I have a 1993 k1500, have to let off gas to go into 2nd. So I rebuilt the 1-2 accumulator, servo, and while i had the pan off changing fluid and filter rebuilt the valve body with a transgo sk-4l60e kit. It's just an upgrade kit, not a high performance, I got it all back together, let it warm up and went thru gears. Had reverse for a few seconds then no reverse, so I dropped the pan to check boost valve. The c-clip came out of its groove, put it back in and everything back together. Tried reverse again, nothing, not even for a few seconds this time. In the morning, going to check c-clip again and get a new boost valve with new c-clip. Before i got into tranny, had good reverse, just the hick-up with it going into second, all other gears are fine. Any feedback greatly appreciated, Terry.
Hi Terry, it's exciting that you are fixing your 4L60E on your own. Occasional setbacks are a normal part of transmission repair. I've had plenty of my own. Mistakes can be great teachers... I am familiar with that upgrade kit. When time permits, I'm going to review the kit instructions, look over the hydraulic schematic of the 4L60E, and get back to you. For the mean time, here are my initial thoughts... Per the video, there are two clutches used to create Reverse; The Low/Reverse clutch and the Input-Reverse Clutch. The Boost Valve/Sleeve is part of the hydraulic circuit that feeds the Input-Reverse Clutch. When the Boost Valve/Sleeve fell out of it's bore, it created a huge leak in the Input-Reverse Clutch circuit. A leak this large makes it impossible for the Input-Reverse Clutch to be activated. Just to be clear, in order for Reverse to occur, two clutches must be activated, at the same time. If only one clutches comes on, then the transmission acts as though it has been placed in Neutral. If you're interested in gaining a better understanding of how the 4L60E gears are achieved, check out these videos: Planetary Gearsets: th-cam.com/video/QjT0CUG73YM/w-d-xo.html 4L60E (Manual Gears): th-cam.com/video/6kfAuXJFYFE/w-d-xo.html 4L60E (OD Gears): th-cam.com/video/IfOqbTqKubE/w-d-xo.html 4L60E (Reverse): Naturally, I have not created this one...yet. Coming soon! Terry, Did you happen to also replace, or upgrade, the Boost Valve & Sleeve?? Reason I ask: There are two (2) different lengths of sleeve. Can you measure your Boost Sleeve with a dial caliper? Note: Take the measurement at the portion of the sleeve that touches the snap ring (c-clip), and the portion that touches the large outer spring. Do not measure the "nipple" at the end of the sleeve. Note: If you need a refresher on how to use a Dial Caliper: th-cam.com/video/yBKXO9l42lQ/w-d-xo.html I look forward to your response, Terry.
Thanks for the reply.I figured out today what was going on. Put a sonnax boost valve pressure kit in, and now i have all gears. Still think the band is going south, but hope to get several thousand more miles out of it by putting in a sonnax servo pin, which is longer than the longest GM pln. Will be doing a complete rebuild this winter. The toughest part will be pulling the tranny at 70 years old. Looking forward to more of your videos, Thanks.
I appreciate your response, Terry. Good deal on the boost valve. You can also increase the length of the pin (in essence) by using the large gold shim/washer that comes with that TransGo kit. I imagine that you've already tried that....but I thought I'd throw it out there, in case it was overlooked. For what it's worth, there may be a command issue causing the 2nd gear issue (or a sticky valve in the VB). You previously mentioned that you have to let off the gas in order for the 1-2 upshift to occur. I've got some ideas, but that's gonna have to be another conversation (or video), for another time... I've got a lot more 4L60E videos in the works; what parts fail, recommended upgrades for different types of builds, more how-stuff-works (gaining this knowledge makes parts selection easier), transmission diagnosis, etc. If you haven't done so already, subscribe and hit the notification bell...so you don't miss any future videos. Have a great weekend, Terry!
You fix it mine does the same I put the 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators acts better but still not 100% I bought the truck with 130k from original owner he just had the trans rebuilt trying this hood valve next
Great Video Presentation. I have a 2005 4 wheel drive Silverado when I back up into the driveway or up hill the truck slips out of reverse this happens intermittently, but I can shift into 1st 2nd and 3rd and drive off with no problem runs great what do you think the problem might be?
It sounds like you've got a clutch that's slipping in Reverse. Reverse is created by two clutches: 1). Reverse-Input Clutch. 2). Low-Reverse Clutch. If either clutch starts slipping, we lose Reverse (or Reverse starts slipping). There are ways to identify which clutch is slipping, while conducting a road test. A future video topic. Fluid level: If the fluid level isn't set correctly, this could also cause problem backing up a hill. The filter pickup is located near the rear of the transmission oil pan. When backing up hill, the oil is flowing towards the front of the trans...away from the pickup. Always a good practice to start with the basics...
That's very interesting. I never looked at it that way... You've got my curiosity peaked. The Input-Reverse circuit has a check-ball/orifice (in the separator plate), but no dedicated accumulator (Low-Reverse circuits are somewhat similar in setup). I previously rationalized that GM got away with not having an accumulator in this circuit, by employing the Belleville spring (dished steel plate, cushion plate...whatever you want to call it) in the Input-Reverse clutch pack. You definitely got my mind running...and I thank you for that. Thanks for dropping me a line!
It sounds like there's a leak in the Reverse circuit. By raising the RPMs, the pump will increase oil pressure, and deliver more oil, to the circuit. This extra pressure, and extra volume, can help overcome a hydraulic leak. However, if it's slipping that bad, then it's typically time to open up the trans. There are two (2) clutches that are responsible for creating Reverse. You can conduct a road test, and identify which clutch is causing the problem, before you tear into the trans, take it into a repair shop, etc. I'm happy to share more info...as time permits. Let me know if you want to learn more.
@@SouthpawAutoworks wow! That’s some good info. I was going to put a Sonnax higher PSI boost valve in, but it sounds like that at best would be a temporary fix. The high reverse gear is working fine, it’s the low reverse gear that seems to be not engaging. I’m excited to try to rebuild it myself, should I just try to do the reverse clutches or just for a full rebuild?
Yeah, if it's slipping that bad, I'm thinking that the damage is already done. Slipping clutches create a lot of heat. Chances are the clutches are smoked. Plus, the oil is probably cooked, too. If you pull the dipstick, you can examine the color of the oil, and the smell of it. White paper towel can help with identifying the color. While it is possible to replace bad clutches, and do nothing else, it's not typically the best course of action. Generally speaking, clutches don't fail all on their own. In other words, there's a reason why they failed. Always best to try to locate the "root cause" of the clutch failure. If this is overlooked, you can wind up smoking the same clutch, all over again.
Couldn't agree more. At some point, after this video, I did spend the time to create a number of animated videos...for a better viewing/learning experience. Hope you enjoy them. 4L60E: PR Valve (Part 3) Torque Signal Oil Pressure (4L60E Line Pressure): th-cam.com/video/PY1trZeLqTM/w-d-xo.html 4L60E: AFL Valve (Part 1) How it Works: th-cam.com/video/LqBkdegPjNk/w-d-xo.html 4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation): th-cam.com/video/FaChWmcsAgI/w-d-xo.html 4L60E: 1-2 Shift Valve + 1-2 Shift Solenoid (Part 1) Basic Operation: th-cam.com/video/jPhm76RDz6Y/w-d-xo.html
love the videos, great explanation. got a question, I've rebuilt about 15 4l60e's, and just did my newest 2008 with a master overhaul kit from WIT, that had the typical failed input clutch and that was it, once back together, no reverse on the lift. tore it back down and to low reverse was burnt just on the lift. not an issue before, i did do the transgo 1.9 boost valve when the one in it was a 1.8 in it. transgo says it is compatible with both but it burnt low/reverse, first was weak and would not shit to 4th on the lift. thanks for any pointers.
That's hard to say. Haven't had any issues using that particular boost valve setup. What's the line pressure with the engine idling in Park? What about drive? Reverse?
Recently tore down my first 4L60e that has a reverse not engaging, everything looks perfect from clutches to low reverse piston lip seals. When putting the car into reverse you can feel it trying to barely engage but nothing after that even with throttle applied no movement. Im hoping i find something within the boost valve area that could be the issue.
There's an aftermarket company that uses a one-size fits both (long & short)(I believe that they advertise it this way, too). However, I believe in all other instances, you'll need to have the correct length to match your application.
Hi Robert, Oggetto: "1999 Corvette C5 transmission issues". Hello, this is Christian from Italy. I hope I'm not bothering you, but I'm really struggling to solve my Corvette issue. Maybe you can help me. I'll try to be concise: the issue is related to the 4L60-E transmission on my Corvette (1999 C5 LS1 345hp). It has been rebuilt three times. The first two times it has lasted 6000 mi, while the third time only 5000 mi. At this point I decided to change mechanic in order to perform a better diagnosis. The new mechanic found out that new stronger springs, a new clutch kit, new gaskets, ect., would have solved the problem. Additionally he also raised the pressure parameters on the ECU (he assessed they were too low), reinstalling the original values. When the car finally came ready, I went to pick it up to drive it back home on a 300 mi trip. That day temperatures were above 100 degrees. Bottom line, after 150 mi, trying to pass someone on the highway, the transmission failed again!!! I'm a kind of desperate. Do you have any idea about which component could be responsible of all this? The issue looks like being related to the Driver and the third gear. First and second gear are fine. I accept any suggestion. Thank you for your time. Best regards, C. Z.
Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor? I know it sounds crazy...but it is a major load sensing device, that the PCM uses to increase line pressure in the trans. Therefore, if it the PCM doesn't know about the additional engine load (via the MAF sensor), then the line pressure will not be increased.....resulting in excessive clutch slippage....resulting in clutch failure. FYI: Andy cleans MAF on a daily basis, at the shop he works at. Just a normal part of transmission repair.
@@SouthpawAutoworks I try to do this check because at 77 miles after the last overhaul, it kept shifting gears and had never done this before. I don't know if this is a sign! A thousand thanks.
Thank you for being here!
If it feels right to you, help me spread the word about this channel…
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder (60 sec): th-cam.com/video/ZQHtrVFUHdk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your efforts!
Kewl! I'm currently experiencing an occasional hard slam into reverse from park on a 1993 C1500 5.7l with 235k miles. This video was very helpful in understanding part of the reverse hydraulic circuit.
First up on the attempts to fix is a new TPS (throttle position sensor). Obviously, the ECM gets some of its information about engine load from the TPS. If that glitches, it could be commanding harsher pressures for the shift to reverse.
Thanks for taking the time, effort, and expenditures in hard cash resources (video and illustrative equipment) to produce these quality presentations. They are detailed and extremely informative!
Really appreciate your comment.
Wishing you the best on 93 4L60E.
Awesome videos! Wish I'd watched before building race 4L70E. Your videos help me understand my upgrades!
Right on! I love it!
Thanks for dropping me a line.
These videos are amazing, have taken numerous notes, thank you
I'm really glad to hear that you're getting value from the videos.
Appreciate you dropping me a line.
Hi Im a GM technician and liked this 4l60e series very well made and good information, can you make one on 4l80e and the slight differences from oil/ pressure flow from the 4l60e? I can provide all the GM documents needed for the video if you'd like.
I just woke up lunch time, checked my phone and checking em out
Awesome! Thank you for your support. I appreciate you, Joms F.
@@SouthpawAutoworks you are welcome bro
Best information videos on the internet
Glad you think so!
Sorry for the typos, I'm using talk to text. And I missed those
No worries.
I also have a 1990 4x4 suburban 1500. Original 700 R4, I just drove it back from Florida, 1500miles, towing a heavy load, and it shifts very nice and soft, typical GM. And when it's hot cold, when you put it in drive it clunks extremely harshly. It's not the ujoints, I just changed 1. I didn't put a new accumulator in the aux valve body, as per friend's recommendation, it still does the same thing. Hot or cold, and it's only occasional. If I put it into 3rd drive. Not overdrive, it doesn't do it. Only when you put it into overdrive, and this of course standing still, normal idle speed
Info received.
Thank you so much for share this information.
You are so welcome!
Hi Robert ,
Great videos ,i have been rebuilding 4l60e since the late 90s.
Learned a few things regarding the oil flow paths and how they work.
I live in Australia and 4l60/ 4l60e is a very common trans
Regard Aaron
Since the 90's? Right on!!
It's crazy how many vehicles this trans is equipped in...
Appreciate you you checking out the video.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
th-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/w-d-xo.html
How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview)
th-cam.com/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/w-d-xo.html
Thank You Very helpful! But I can't seem to find part 3 can you link to it please?
I had a late 80s, aux valve body, 700R4 rebuilt for my 1984 6.2 diesel 4x4 suburban. The shop is very reputable, I know that it's a good job, I'm friendly with the owner. It shifts rock hard, which I'm fine with, because I use it for heavy towing. The only problem I have is problem but it sits for a day or 2, it takes forever to go into the driver or reverse. What is causing the fluid prime to bleed off?
It sounds like a drain-back issue.
The pump is responsible for multiple tasks. One of those tasks is filling up the torque converter with fluid. If the converter is low on fluid, it will not allow engine torque to reach the input shaft of the trans.
If the vehicle is parked for days, it's possible for the torque converter to partially drain back into the pan. This, of course, is not normal.
When the converter is partially drained, the pump needs time to fill it back up, before the vehicle will move again.
A worn pump bushing can cause this issue. If the bushing is indeed the issue, I'd also be looking at the dowel pins on the engine, and the corresponding pilot holes on the trans bell housing. If these are worn, it can allow for a misalignment, putting extra stress on the pump bushing....causing premature wear.
A tip I picked up years ago was to bolt housing to engine and have a dial indicator in flywheel or crank or flex plate whatever and check run out with the trans or bellhousing on the block you were using together, surprising how many times there is a stack up mismatch of production tolerances that cause bearing failures
Right on!
Thanks for sharing!
Great video series
Great videos
Thank you, kindly. Appreciate all of your comments.
Hp tuners talks about garage pressure. And has a channel to log. What exactly is garage pressure
I purchased several “O” ringed (outer portion) boost sleeve/boost valve assemblies that were made by the Sonnax company. Stick dementions are 0.471 (reverse boost) and 0.421 (load boost). The Sonnax valve is 0.531 and 0.491 respectively compared. This seems like a lot to me (the amount of increase)! I have yet to experience the effects that the larger valve may have. Any idea what I should expect? The first one is installed in a pump with a new oversized pressure regulator valve needed to restore sealing integrity to the pump.
GREAT VIDEOS!! I Subscribed. I have a 1993 k1500, have to let off gas to go into 2nd. So I rebuilt the 1-2 accumulator, servo, and while i had the pan off changing fluid and filter rebuilt the valve body with a transgo sk-4l60e kit. It's just an upgrade kit, not a high performance, I got it all back together, let it warm up and went thru gears. Had reverse for a few seconds then no reverse, so I dropped the pan to check boost valve. The c-clip came out of its groove, put it back in and everything back together. Tried reverse again, nothing, not even for a few seconds this time. In the morning, going to check c-clip again and get a new boost valve with new c-clip. Before i got into tranny, had good reverse, just the hick-up with it going into second, all other gears are fine. Any feedback greatly appreciated, Terry.
Hi Terry, it's exciting that you are fixing your 4L60E on your own. Occasional setbacks are a normal part of transmission repair. I've had plenty of my own. Mistakes can be great teachers...
I am familiar with that upgrade kit.
When time permits, I'm going to review the kit instructions, look over the hydraulic schematic of the 4L60E, and get back to you. For the mean time, here are my initial thoughts...
Per the video, there are two clutches used to create Reverse; The Low/Reverse clutch and the Input-Reverse Clutch. The Boost Valve/Sleeve is part of the hydraulic circuit that feeds the Input-Reverse Clutch. When the Boost Valve/Sleeve fell out of it's bore, it created a huge leak in the Input-Reverse Clutch circuit. A leak this large makes it impossible for the Input-Reverse Clutch to be activated.
Just to be clear, in order for Reverse to occur, two clutches must be activated, at the same time. If only one clutches comes on, then the transmission acts as though it has been placed in Neutral.
If you're interested in gaining a better understanding of how the 4L60E gears are achieved, check out these videos:
Planetary Gearsets: th-cam.com/video/QjT0CUG73YM/w-d-xo.html
4L60E (Manual Gears): th-cam.com/video/6kfAuXJFYFE/w-d-xo.html
4L60E (OD Gears): th-cam.com/video/IfOqbTqKubE/w-d-xo.html
4L60E (Reverse): Naturally, I have not created this one...yet. Coming soon!
Terry,
Did you happen to also replace, or upgrade, the Boost Valve & Sleeve??
Reason I ask: There are two (2) different lengths of sleeve.
Can you measure your Boost Sleeve with a dial caliper?
Note: Take the measurement at the portion of the sleeve that touches the snap ring (c-clip), and the portion that touches the large outer spring. Do not measure the "nipple" at the end of the sleeve.
Note: If you need a refresher on how to use a Dial Caliper: th-cam.com/video/yBKXO9l42lQ/w-d-xo.html
I look forward to your response, Terry.
Thanks for the reply.I figured out today what was going on. Put a sonnax boost valve pressure kit in, and now i have all gears. Still think the band is going south, but hope to get several thousand more miles out of it by putting in a sonnax servo pin, which is longer than the longest GM pln. Will be doing a complete rebuild this winter. The toughest part will be pulling the tranny at 70 years old. Looking forward to more of your videos, Thanks.
I appreciate your response, Terry.
Good deal on the boost valve.
You can also increase the length of the pin (in essence) by using the large gold shim/washer that comes with that TransGo kit. I imagine that you've already tried that....but I thought I'd throw it out there, in case it was overlooked.
For what it's worth, there may be a command issue causing the 2nd gear issue (or a sticky valve in the VB). You previously mentioned that you have to let off the gas in order for the 1-2 upshift to occur. I've got some ideas, but that's gonna have to be another conversation (or video), for another time...
I've got a lot more 4L60E videos in the works; what parts fail, recommended upgrades for different types of builds, more how-stuff-works (gaining this knowledge makes parts selection easier), transmission diagnosis, etc.
If you haven't done so already, subscribe and hit the notification bell...so you don't miss any future videos.
Have a great weekend, Terry!
You fix it mine does the same I put the 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators acts better but still not 100% I bought the truck with 130k from original owner he just had the trans rebuilt trying this hood valve next
Doesn't the inner spring also contribute to the minimum pressure at 55 psi?
Great Video Presentation. I have a 2005 4 wheel drive Silverado when I back up into the driveway or up hill the truck slips out of reverse this happens intermittently, but I can shift into 1st 2nd and 3rd and drive off with no problem runs great what do you think the problem might be?
It sounds like you've got a clutch that's slipping in Reverse.
Reverse is created by two clutches:
1). Reverse-Input Clutch.
2). Low-Reverse Clutch.
If either clutch starts slipping, we lose Reverse (or Reverse starts slipping).
There are ways to identify which clutch is slipping, while conducting a road test. A future video topic.
Fluid level:
If the fluid level isn't set correctly, this could also cause problem backing up a hill. The filter pickup is located near the rear of the transmission oil pan. When backing up hill, the oil is flowing towards the front of the trans...away from the pickup.
Always a good practice to start with the basics...
It is also worth noting, that the isolator spring and boost valve also act as an accumulator for the Reverse Input Clutch.
That's very interesting. I never looked at it that way...
You've got my curiosity peaked.
The Input-Reverse circuit has a check-ball/orifice (in the separator plate), but no dedicated accumulator (Low-Reverse circuits are somewhat similar in setup). I previously rationalized that GM got away with not having an accumulator in this circuit, by employing the Belleville spring (dished steel plate, cushion plate...whatever you want to call it) in the Input-Reverse clutch pack.
You definitely got my mind running...and I thank you for that.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
@@SouthpawAutoworks could this explain the condition of no reverse but then suddenly engaging at high rpm’s? If the boost valve is malfunctioning?
It sounds like there's a leak in the Reverse circuit. By raising the RPMs, the pump will increase oil pressure, and deliver more oil, to the circuit. This extra pressure, and extra volume, can help overcome a hydraulic leak. However, if it's slipping that bad, then it's typically time to open up the trans.
There are two (2) clutches that are responsible for creating Reverse. You can conduct a road test, and identify which clutch is causing the problem, before you tear into the trans, take it into a repair shop, etc.
I'm happy to share more info...as time permits. Let me know if you want to learn more.
@@SouthpawAutoworks wow! That’s some good info.
I was going to put a Sonnax higher PSI boost valve in, but it sounds like that at best would be a temporary fix.
The high reverse gear is working fine, it’s the low reverse gear that seems to be not engaging.
I’m excited to try to rebuild it myself, should I just try to do the reverse clutches or just for a full rebuild?
Yeah, if it's slipping that bad, I'm thinking that the damage is already done. Slipping clutches create a lot of heat. Chances are the clutches are smoked. Plus, the oil is probably cooked, too. If you pull the dipstick, you can examine the color of the oil, and the smell of it. White paper towel can help with identifying the color.
While it is possible to replace bad clutches, and do nothing else, it's not typically the best course of action.
Generally speaking, clutches don't fail all on their own. In other words, there's a reason why they failed. Always best to try to locate the "root cause" of the clutch failure. If this is overlooked, you can wind up smoking the same clutch, all over again.
Nice explanation bro but try to some animation to explain some complicated systemes and opration
Couldn't agree more. At some point, after this video, I did spend the time to create a number of animated videos...for a better viewing/learning experience. Hope you enjoy them.
4L60E: PR Valve (Part 3) Torque Signal Oil Pressure (4L60E Line Pressure): th-cam.com/video/PY1trZeLqTM/w-d-xo.html
4L60E: AFL Valve (Part 1) How it Works: th-cam.com/video/LqBkdegPjNk/w-d-xo.html
4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation): th-cam.com/video/FaChWmcsAgI/w-d-xo.html
4L60E: 1-2 Shift Valve + 1-2 Shift Solenoid (Part 1) Basic Operation: th-cam.com/video/jPhm76RDz6Y/w-d-xo.html
love the videos, great explanation. got a question, I've rebuilt about 15 4l60e's, and just did my newest 2008 with a master overhaul kit from WIT, that had the typical failed input clutch and that was it, once back together, no reverse on the lift. tore it back down and to low reverse was burnt just on the lift. not an issue before, i did do the transgo 1.9 boost valve when the one in it was a 1.8 in it. transgo says it is compatible with both but it burnt low/reverse, first was weak and would not shit to 4th on the lift. thanks for any pointers.
That's hard to say.
Haven't had any issues using that particular boost valve setup.
What's the line pressure with the engine idling in Park?
What about drive? Reverse?
Recently tore down my first 4L60e that has a reverse not engaging, everything looks perfect from clutches to low reverse piston lip seals. When putting the car into reverse you can feel it trying to barely engage but nothing after that even with throttle applied no movement. Im hoping i find something within the boost valve area that could be the issue.
Did you find the problem?
I ALSO HAVE 6L50 GEAR BOX 1AND 2 GEAR SLIP WHAT SHOULD I DO???
4l65 e parts guy sent me an early boost valve an sleeve that is longer than than the later 06 an up. Can I still use the longer one
There's an aftermarket company that uses a one-size fits both (long & short)(I believe that they advertise it this way, too). However, I believe in all other instances, you'll need to have the correct length to match your application.
Hi Robert, Oggetto: "1999 Corvette C5 transmission issues". Hello, this is Christian from Italy. I hope I'm not bothering you, but I'm really struggling to solve my Corvette issue. Maybe you can help me. I'll try to be concise: the issue is related to the 4L60-E transmission on my Corvette (1999 C5 LS1 345hp). It has been rebuilt three times. The first two times it has lasted 6000 mi, while the third time only 5000 mi. At this point I decided to change mechanic in order to perform a better diagnosis. The new mechanic found out that new stronger springs, a new clutch kit, new gaskets, ect., would have solved the problem. Additionally he also raised the pressure parameters on the ECU (he assessed they were too low), reinstalling the original values. When the car finally came ready, I went to pick it up to drive it back home on a 300 mi trip. That day temperatures were above 100 degrees. Bottom line, after 150 mi, trying to pass someone on the highway, the transmission failed again!!! I'm a kind of desperate. Do you have any idea about which component could be responsible of all this? The issue looks like being related to the Driver and the third gear. First and second gear are fine. I accept any suggestion. Thank you for your time. Best regards, C. Z.
Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor? I know it sounds crazy...but it is a major load sensing device, that the PCM uses to increase line pressure in the trans. Therefore, if it the PCM doesn't know about the additional engine load (via the MAF sensor), then the line pressure will not be increased.....resulting in excessive clutch slippage....resulting in clutch failure.
FYI:
Andy cleans MAF on a daily basis, at the shop he works at. Just a normal part of transmission repair.
@@SouthpawAutoworks I try to do this check because at 77 miles after the last overhaul, it kept shifting gears and had never done this before. I don't know if this is a sign!
A thousand thanks.
Mazda2 move slowly when transmission is cold