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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Here, I run through the procedure quickly in order to show you what to look out for. I show you what happened to me when my engine was timed improperly and how I fixed it.
I believe that this is the biggest problem that you can run into when setting the timing. It's pretty sneaky and if you don't go back and carefully verify the timing before you lock everything down the timing can be off!
In parts 3 and 4 I go into more detail about parts, tools, and the procedure.
ALso dont forget to take out the timing peg before u put everything back together and try and start it or can break your block!
Underrated comment. So true!
This video is gold. I have a 2010 Mazda CX-9 and I am trying to figure out how I can verify that the engine is timed before I remove the chain
If it was running before you removed it
I would have never thought of that taking the crank boat out after you timed it it would take it out of time I have a 2012 Ford focus
This is pure GOLD...I did a 2.0 to 2.5 swap, and found your videos...Now I know that I did not time it properly. I'm very confident this will solve my issues.
you can use the impact gun to back off the crank pulley bolt and i bet the crank wont move. as you remove that bolt you can just keep an eye on your little tdc home made stick thing in the spark plug hole. By the way, that tdc stick is a great idea. Had you watched your tdc stick as you removed the crank pulley bolt you would have seen the crankshaft had moved because the stick would have went down a wee bit.
Absolute life saver. 2.3 to 2.5 swap left me scratching my head at how disgusting the car was running, fixed the problem in 30mins after watching this. started right up strait after, purrs like a kitten and sprints like and athlete!
You’re video was very informative thank you. I found that you can use the harmonic balance bolt to set the timing as long as you remove it using an impact driver. I tested it three times and my timing remained. Saves you from having to drop the starter.
This was beautifully and expertly explained, you’re no diyer lol you’re a pro
if the vehicle is manual you can utilize the drive train to rotate the crank back up against the peg after you remove the bolt, also you can load up the drive train to loosen the crankshaft bolt by selecting a gear and and locking 1 axle in a stationary position and rotating the other hub/axle, if the trans-axle/gearbox utilizes an LSD differential and the breakaway is not to light then you wont need to lock one of the axles, the torque is applied opposite so 5th gear will have the most torque but 4th gear should suffice.
One of the best youtube videos I've ever seen. You are a born educator. Thank you very much for doing this
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The series of videos you've made for timing this engine is by FAR the best resource I've found, thank you very much for putting these out. One helpful tip for those who have not pulled the engine entirely and do not have the ability to rotate the crankshaft from the back of the engine: You can cut a 1/4" thick piece of rubber sheet, then wrap it around the front of the crankshaft and secure it with a worm drive style hose clamp to make a very secure strap wrench, that assembly can then be rotated pretty easily by hand or with some channel locks without the risk of damage to the shaft.
Great tip!
I hate too say it but i hope you have more car problems so you make more videos
Very smart man. Good video
Great video, it helped me to understand the problem I have with my cx7 that my mechanic has been battling with out results
Its not just the crank bolt that did it, it would be better if keyed; when you go to back off the bolt you also reverse the tension in the Chain and compress the tensioner just enough that the crank walks back and then when you install the pulley its off by that amount.
With spark plugs out, and engine out, you can turn crank with the flex plate by hand easily. Just leave the bolt out until ready to torque balancer
You are saint. Thank you so much for sharing with us. Thank you for filming. It was a pleasure watching. You really helped me. Thank you so much
I'm Planning to do this on my Ford Ranger 2.3L engine. But, I hadn't intended to take it out of the vehicle. Can I rotate it from the back with the engine still in the vehicle?
i knew right when u popped off that crank and said, well its timed lol, i use a vicegrip and towel so i dont mar the crank to move the crank back just to make sure its hitting the peg before continuing, cuz again with the vicegrip u dont need to remove a bolt which invariable ends up moving the crank off the pin
Mazda, and Honda both had keyless cranks on their 4 cylinder engines. But, Honda has an additional shaft called a "balancer shaft" that the timing pin contacts. The balancer shaft was used to minimize vibration at higher engine rpm's. Very easy, and instructional video sir!
Rather than moving it with the back of the crankshaft (when the motor is still in the car) just use the camshafts.
How exactly would you do that please answer this if you get a notification about this god bless youu
There are flats built into one cam shaft to put a wrench on.
I got a ford escape 2008 hybrid since I change the valve I have been having issues with the timing
I followed ur part three video and it starts for about a minute and went off again,my engine is not removed fro. The car so that's why I need a video
I want to thank you for this 4 part series. My 2016 Ford Fusion with the 2.5 jumped time and died at a stop sign. Thanks to this video series I completely understood what I was doing when I replaced the components using the All Data DIY manual. As it turns out, it jumped time because it was missing a friction washer between the crankshaft and the sprocket. With the M6 bolt in the pulley hole the cams lined up but the engine was still another 10-15 degrees from hitting the TDC peg. I’m surprised that the engine didn’t blow up. One tip I have is to definitely use the flats on the camshaft that look like a bolt to keep it from rotating while torquing the gears down.
If the transmission is manual do you agree to avoid the shaft going back to engage the transmition on first or any speed?
Hang on... if you locked your cams from rotating how are you turning the crank?
Crank is keyless, and relies on the pulley pressure to lock. Ford manual says to do this initial alignment with the pulley on, remove the pulley, verify crankshaft is against stop, then install the cover. This process eliminates the problem stated.
Hanging out at the live stream last night was fun. I hope we can find a way to get together for a meet up (if Eric the car guy doesn't do it). You had some great visuals on this one which will make it easy to understand for anyone who is going to tackle this. Nice job.
Thanks Dave! Yeah, that was fun. Looking forward to whatever meetup comes around. Is it true that Eric O. already had one of his own?
Baxrok2 I'll send you an email.
muchas gracias por compartir su experiencia con nosotros los que comemos en trabajo de la mecánica gracias muy buen video
Thank you for this video had to do an oil pan and front main seal on a 07 Miata 2.0 and pulled off the harmonic balancer without knowing it was a keyless balancer.
2011 Ranger 2.3L. (220,000km/130,000 miles. Ford recommends changeout at 190,000km) -- Ford quoted me $1500 Canadian$ and six hours labor. My fav mechanic shop will not touch it.
-- Have a DIY friend who has some experience with keyless crankshafts; says I can do it. Will be studying your video series.
-- Not certain if I need to change sprockets also at that mileage. It will depend on observed wear when I open engine?
The first gen engines in my videos are chain driven so won't apply to belts. No need to change sprockets unless something very unusual happens to damage them.
What about the balancer shaft assembly ? How do you time the balancer shaft assembly to the crankshaft in the vehicle? Can miss timing the assembly result in catastrophic failure? We put rods and mains in a 05 escape hybrid with no thoughts to marking the balencer and the crank!
I don't know. I never removed the crank or balancer for my swap. Go to Mazda3Forums.com for some help.
sure wud be nice to have an extra hand to hold that crank in place at the flywheel
Great series as an advisor wish the techs would read the procedures before assuming they know what they are doing.
What did you do to reset the misfire correction profile without the scan tool?
Thank you Sir and you look like Robert De Niro.
Hey is the 303-507 the correct timing pin for 2006 2.3l DOHC Duratech? Because I’ve bought a few which are way off on their dimensions. Done some research and I’m seeing it’s a 38.55 mm pin (peg)… Haynes book says 63.4 mm I think they are way off. Let me me know what you think. Thanks
That looks like the right one. Says it's for the 2.3.
Thank you! I’m about to do this project.
So if the engine is still in the car.......how can I rotate the crankshaft to ensure the crank is still at TDC? The engine Im working on is in a 2015 Ford Fusion. Note: The oassenger axle does not have to be removed to install the timing peg.
Remove the starter and turn the flywheel to rotate the crankshaft.
7:30 I tried to watch the piston position "indicator" as you loosened the bolt, but you were blocking the view. Using a dial indicator and zeroing might help.
9:40 You did it again😂
Is it a fair statement to say that unless you take off the timing chain, you don't have to worry about bending the valves with the pistons while you go through the timing process with the 3 tools?
Unless the engine has jumped timing, I'd say yes. Even if you do remove the chain, just turning the crank by hand isn't going to bend a valve IMO. (Unless you go full gorilla and force it.) A piston might touch a valve as you're turning by hand but you'll know it right away.
Really appreciate the tips and the concise explanation. I will be doing this job now. After timing it, I will remove the crank bolt with an impact, rather than by hand, and I believe this will allow me to remove the bolt without moving the crank out of place. Will report back on if that works. Cheers
I agree that an impact is better than by hand.
The thing this man isnt seeing us in order to install the crankshaft pulley bolt to torque specifications or to loosen the crankshaft bolt you must install the timing alignment bolt into the hole in the pulley and screw it unto the timing cover. This will keep the crankshaft alignment true whether you loosen or tighten pulley bolt to factory specification. You don't have to do all the running back and forth trying to verify.
Keyless crankshaft.
How were you able to turn the engine if you have locked out the cam shafts and the timing chain is in place?? I think something is very strange about your video.
Keyless crankshaft. That is the point of the entire series on this engine. Keyless crankshaft!
What I don't understand is that in this design there is a tensioner on both sides, the leading side (leading from the cams to the crank), and the trailing side (going from the crank to the cams). I have seen tensioners where there is only one on the trailing side. Having one on the leading side too means I am relying that the tensioner is pushing to the max taking up all the slack. If the tensioner is but pushing to the max I could have a slightly different timing.
There is a guide on both sides, only one tensioner.
do u know how much torque value for bearing conrod engine Lf-mzr I4 2000cc, mazda 6 gg 2.0 2005
No, I don't have the service manuals anymore.
Where is cam shaft timing plate? Is auto store going to look crazy when I ask for one?
Some auto stores may have tools you can borrow, otherwise you have to order online.
Love the video series, thanks for making these, it's really giving me insight for my swap. Cheers!
I do not understand why they did not key the gears to all 3 shafts, it seems crazy to me that they rely on diamond coated friction washers to keep things in place.
Mainly the bolts since a lot of Mazdas never came with friction washers in the first place. It’s a good idea to replace camshaft and crankshaft bolts whenever taking it apart. If you look at the parts diagrams off partsouq, you can see where to put the friction washers if they are recommended and never came with your engine.
super helpful, thanks
Thank you! For real
Thanks this video saved my butt.
Great video! Thanks! Thought I did the alignment perfectly after a valve job/timing chain replacement but it was running rough with P0015, P0016 camshaft/crankshaft misalignment engine codes. This video saved the day. A couple of notes that might help some folks: 1) The pulley on my 2006 Mazda 2.0 LF lined up on the fifth tooth not the ninth when I installed the M6 bolt. 2) I got a TDC alignment bolt online that is thinner than yours and can be installed without removing the driveaxle.
Where did you buy from and what model is it?
@@MrXanitos Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YVLA0DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good videos, but you talk too much.
you are the best teacher with details we all need, thanks
you do way to much unnecessary talking blah blah just get to it.
It's funny that you said that, my son's and I were just talking about that. No worries, I'll just delete the video that way folks don't have to listen to the "blah blah."
If you don't know don't say
💝💝💝💝💝💝💝💝💖💖💞💞💕💕💝good sir
Thanks for being very thorough. One thing I do want to bring up, is this: We don't always remove the engine from the car. So turning the crank to bring back to top dead center would probably have to be done by turning the flywheel. Remove the starter and access it from there. With a large prytool it can be done and may take a few tries, it will get done. Appreciate you taking the time. Carlos
Hi i have cx7 with 2.3 l turbo , is this engine a interference or non interferenece
Interference.
Where did you put the pry bar ? Anyone know or can anyone show me please ?
I'm using the prybar on the back of the crankshaft because the engine is out of the car. I have two bolts in it and that's what I lock the prybar into to turn the crankshaft. If the engine is in the car you turn the flywheel with a strong screwdriver or small prybar through the starter opening.
Mate. Terrific tutorial
Pin in front for what?
They make a crankshaft holding tool. It bolts to the flywheel housing and holds the flywheel in place so you can move the crankshaft. Once you are at TDC, you install the hold tool. Then you will not have this issue. The professional that did your timing has access to this tool. Shame on him for taking the shortcut.
A Professional would tell you to take your losses and move on and NEVER buy a Ford,Chevy or Chrysler four cylinder. That's what junkyards are for
Hi ur videos have been so educative keep on sir.am from cameroon,pls any video on how to do tuning on ford escape hybrid 2.3 engine without removing from the car?
After i line up the crankshaft on the Peg and remove the bolt, i put on the timing cover and then when i put on the crankshaft pully i set the mark in the 3pm position and slightly tighten the crankshaft bolt then turn the crankshaft with a little force which moves the crankshaft and your hear it hit the peg if it had moved and continue turn the crankshaft gear which should have a little resistance until it lines up with the mark on the cover :)
Lovely
Hi sir I was so happy watching ur video so interesting, I got a ford escape engine that needs a valve timing but the engine is in the car can u help me with a video on how to do the timing without removing the engine from the car?thanks
This is a wonderful series. Thanks for putting it together. Would you happen to have the measurements for the thin portion of the camshaft positioning tool? I am trying to fabricate one but I can't find the dimensions anywhere. Thanks.
What a garbage engine
I'm hoping to do some work on my nc 2.0 so I'm trying to get tips & educate myself, you video was very clear & very useful.
Many thanks Aaron
Great video! Thank you for sharing. This confirms what I suspected went wrong on a vehicle from another shop.
You are awesome
The new ford explorers don't have a locking position for the crank pulley
Robbie-rob Garcia Cams first so you can rotate crank freely. 3 videos show all the details.
Robbie-rob Garcia Didn't know that. Which engine?
My 6 mm bolt tightens in but there is a yellow arrow at 10 o'clock on the pulley that baffles me because it is not inline with the sensor.
Weve got one that when timed up by the manual, and its reverse flowing, it runs but its exhausting on the inlet and inletting on the exhaust wtf. Came in broken with a broken pin in the exhaust cam so we have no reference to go off
You are 100%
Good info
Great video...i am attempting this next weekend with the engine still in the car...i am upgrading the cams on My 2 0 duratec focus. Would you be able to tell me the correct torque settings for the cams head bolts ect? Thankyou
Sorry, but I don't have that info. Lot's of choices though. Start with a google search for it. Then you can search the Focus forums where there will no doubt be that info available. Otherwise, consult the service manual or get a short subscription to a site like AllDataDiy. Good luck!
Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual?
Unfortunately I do not.
Sign up at Mazda3Forums. Search for the factory service manual download. You'll be glad that you did! That's where I got mine and I've used it a ton. If for some strange reason you can't find it let me know.
Use a regular ratchet and make a click sound when it feels about right. That's how the pros do it.
Thanks for the video. I was very helpful for me!
Excellent video. Thank you for posting and sharing
great i am having problem 2012 ford transit 2.0 l
Great video... well explained with what could go wrong!
Thanks. If it hadn't seen it myself, it almost didn't seem worth mentioning. If for no other reason, it at least shows the entire timing process which was something that I have yet to see on YT.
Best make sure that gear bolt is tight before turning the cam with a wrench.
Hi Mate was wondering if you could help me out again, basically I build the engine back up and the guys I worked with didn’t realise that that engine has solid tappets basically the valves were lapped but not adjusted clearances would you know what but to measure ect?
Thanks.
Sorry, I've never done any work on the valves or cams. Unfortunately, I no longer have my shop manuals either so I don't have any info to offer as far as specs, clearances, etc.
I went through this video as I had vvt/ chain issues, replaced everything, rotated the engine to double, triple check timing but when i started it, it fell out of timing and lunched the valves into the pistons....the crank bolt worked loose after torquing up. I was told I needed a new bolt as part of this procedure. Got a complete "low km" changeover engine and guess what?? Vvt issues on start up...what a shit engine. All it needed was a keyway instead of a stupid interference fit and I wouldve been rolling and not 4k out of pocket...
Sorry that you had so many problems.
Hi. I have done this swap on my 2007 Mazda 3. I did NOT change the intake camshaft timing wheel. Maybe why my car won’t start!?
No, the timing wheel swap was needed if you had a pre 2006 engine. I had a 2004 and put in a 2011 engine, so I had to do the swap. 2006 up should not need the timing wheel swap. To verify though, you can just compare them old to new.
Thx for the quick reply. I have no spark, no fuel and it pops no codes.
@@raidersnindians I'd check the crank sensor function (output, 5v, ground) and gap/position against timing wheel. Could be a lot of things though. I think it should still start without cam sensor signal, but could be wrong about that since it's been a while. lol Of course, if you've removed the crank pulley or timing chain for any reason ya might want to check the timing.
@@baxrok2. I watched your timing video’s several times. Big thank you. I timed the engine once I dropped it in the car. I was having trouble holding the crankshaft pulley to get the extra 90 degrees. I rigged up a setup and eventually got it torqued. After that I reinserted the 3 timing tools, cam shaft bar, crankshaft stop and the 6mm bolt in the crankshaft pulley. Crankshaft tooth was right on the sensor. I have not checked the voltage though, so will give that a try tomorrow. Appreciate your assistance!
@@raidersnindians There is a spec for the gap, but I don't recall what it is.
So why does it have a thrust washer?
Because thata day the engineers smoke something different 😂
You can use the Engine TDC pin with the engine in chassis you slide the boot off the axle end opposite the wheel end I just warmed it up with an old hair drier I keep in the shop same when I reinstalled it . You slide the boot off and you have plenty of access to install and remove the TDC timing pin it can be done in a matter of minutes.
Great info sir. Thanks!
Wondering where you're from. I'm seriously considering doing this to my 3. And I may need some help along the way. This series has really got me interested in the swap.
Go for it, it's not hard. Watch the videos and for sure join the guys over at Mazda3Forums. Also there appears to be a Facebook page devoted to these swaps and apparently the guys are super helpful. Watch my So How Much Did It Cost video for the Facebook page name. Some guy posted the link just the other day.
Thank you for the great video! Wish I found it before I changed a bunch of parts! My mechanic swore he had it timed.
I get it. That's what a mechanic told me too!
Sir
Can you explain the position of the vvt camshaft cz I opened that and no marking for that.. can you explain please
The service manual does not have any information for the parts inside the VVT gear. Here is a video that might help you: th-cam.com/video/O3GfxForZE4/w-d-xo.html
I hello my engine is still together can this be done with the top end together? your awesome man I found you videos very informative.
Yes it can. I have another video called 2005 Mazda 3 - 2.3L to 2.5L Engine Swap. Timing Fix! where I do it in the car. Good luck!
Please help, I have to replace my oil pump on my Ford Focus. Do you know if the oil pump has to be timed or not. If the answer is yes how do you set time.
I'm not aware of any pump timing. Some older engines I do think needed pump timing. Here's a video where you can watch the guy install a pump and then set the timing on the engine. Hope this helps and good luck! th-cam.com/video/F1RLtSiREok/w-d-xo.html
Very informative and professional. Thank you
Thanks!
Thanks for your effort .I came from Taiwan .
Please add automatic captions. Thanks you
Hi, can that procedure applicable to Ford Escape 2003 2.0 engine?
No, that engine is different. There are other videos on youtube for that engine.
Hmmm? I get that it will pull off the peg when you loosen the bolt @ But if you leave the peg in - won’t it realign when you tighten the bolt
Well, I suppose it might if the cams never move or the crank never moves! Very unlikely plus a small amount off of TDC can make the engine run or not. That's what happened to me. Go to the ~10 minute mark and I show you what happens and why it happens. Either way, you have to check and verify in order to get it right.
This seems confusing no offense. But in my case someone attempted to change the crank pulley and messed up timing. I just took it all apart took off chain set timing top and bottom used tool kit to hold everything in place. Loosen the cam sprockets put chain and guides on then tensioner, then torque the cam bolts down. Once everything was torque i put gasket maker on the timing cover put that on then i put on the crank pulley with washer made sure the crank hole was at six o’clock position i put the screw through the crank hole and secured it to the timing cover so i could torque the crank bolt down once crank bolt was torque, i removed the screw along with the cam holding tools and the balance shaft stopper nut spun the crank 2 revs and everything lined just fine i at no point needed a pry bar. The first time i did one of these it was a blown head gasket i didn’t have any of the special tools needed but i still made it work with a straight edge file and a long screw for cam stopper.
No offense taken Mark. My style of 'too much information' isn't for everyone. I just did what I thought would help people the most. Thanks!
Baxrok2 makes it sound harder than what it really is thats all.
So bad "timing chain", does it throw any codes? Have a Mazda 6 project car with a 2.3....no idle...no codes thrown...156k miles
If the chain is stretched it might allow the timing to jump. If it jumps, I'd think it would still idle but very poorly. When it comes to codes, I would expect a code to be thrown, but Mazda's aren't very reliable with codes when it comes to timing in my experience.
@@baxrok2.
Good to know. Was given some information that it could be a vacuum leak ...Shevis, a Mazda owner and manager of an auto parts store, said a few mechanic friends in the area informed him of the plastic intake developing cracks. Going to check these theories out. I appreciate the reply