Thank you for the instructions. Did my brakes for the first time using wind back method and everything seems to be working well. Just had such a hard time taking out the old rotor had to drill out the old screw.
Good luck with the repair! Not sure which tools you mean, but if you don't have an impact driver to get out the screws, you can take a regular screwdriver and put it in the screw and give it a good whack with a hammer which really helps to loosen up the rust bond. For pulling the rotor, sometimes you can just get way with a few pounds on that hat/hub area of the rotor to loosen up the rust! Those forcing screws might work for you as well. Let us know how it goes!
@@JohnsDIY Should go okay - car is only 5 years old with 42,000 km - rotors are rust weary more than used. I do have an impact driver too as well an air powered right angle impact wrench. Biggest concern is pushing in the piston, actually. Should go okay. It's a 30 minute job but with a couple friends helping will probably take 2 hours...
@@AlanTheBeast100 Yep, should be no problem! To push in the piston, you can just rotate it in clockwise. You could use a $30 windback tool or even a $5 windback tool that has the little cube and goes into the ratchet to line up with the slots on the piston. Or you could even probably wind it back using a pair of needle nose pliers in those notches!! As long as it isn't too stuck!
That's a good question Robert! I don't believe the order matters. The service data says to enable and disable the parking brake twice. This drives out the inner piston to contact the pad and then backs it off slightly. That is the only "calibration" needed for the parking brake. As you mention, it is always a good idea to pump the brakes several times until the pedal is firm before you put the car in gear in order to make sure the piston is hydraulically ready to activate. I don't think the order matters though.
Yep, exactly, you can just rotate it in clockwise (looking at the top of the piston) until it stops rotating and then press it in the rest of the way until flush.
Great video, if I don't remove the electric cable and do the pads replacement would it affect the electronics in any way? One of the videos tells to keep the car on accessory mode while doing pads replacement.
Thanks for the nice comment! No, it is fine to leave the cable connected if you want to as long as you have enough room with the cable connected to still get the caliper off. Removing the cable can make it a little easier to manipulate the caliper by eliminating that restriction though. Obviously, you'll want to make sure that the parking brake does not get turned on when the caliper is removed from the vehicle though or else you might push the piston all the way out which can be a real problem! Removing the electrical cable prevents that possibility but as long as you ensure the parking brake doesn't get activated until you put the caliper back on then you will be fine. I don't understand the rationale behind putting the car in accessory mode during pad replacement. I also don't see any mention of doing that in the service data. You should make sure that the parking brake is turned off before you start though. And if you have the automatic parking brake feature enabled then you will want to disable that.
The brake service mode can be used to retract the inner parking brake piston fully so that it is not necessary to wind back the piston manually. However, this is not necessary as you can wind the piston back manually as shown in this video. In the brake job shown in the video, the brake service mode was not used. You should make sure you turn off the parking brake before starting (and disable the auto-parking brake feature if you use that). If interested, I have an entire video about options to retract the piston on this vehicle: th-cam.com/video/ocLzmxy2RyM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the instructions. Did my brakes for the first time using wind back method and everything seems to be working well. Just had such a hard time taking out the old rotor had to drill out the old screw.
Perfect. Parts will be here tomorrow. Don't have those tools - hopefully a reversed puller will do the job.
Good luck with the repair! Not sure which tools you mean, but if you don't have an impact driver to get out the screws, you can take a regular screwdriver and put it in the screw and give it a good whack with a hammer which really helps to loosen up the rust bond. For pulling the rotor, sometimes you can just get way with a few pounds on that hat/hub area of the rotor to loosen up the rust! Those forcing screws might work for you as well. Let us know how it goes!
@@JohnsDIY Should go okay - car is only 5 years old with 42,000 km - rotors are rust weary more than used. I do have an impact driver too as well an air powered right angle impact wrench.
Biggest concern is pushing in the piston, actually.
Should go okay.
It's a 30 minute job but with a couple friends helping will probably take 2 hours...
@@AlanTheBeast100 Yep, should be no problem! To push in the piston, you can just rotate it in clockwise. You could use a $30 windback tool or even a $5 windback tool that has the little cube and goes into the ratchet to line up with the slots on the piston. Or you could even probably wind it back using a pair of needle nose pliers in those notches!! As long as it isn't too stuck!
@@JohnsDIY Yep - my friend provided me with a cube - seems to have various "key" points on it. Thx for the follow up!
@@AlanTheBeast100 Perfect, yep, I have successfully used one like that many times!
Clear and concise. What an extremely well done video.
Thanks Bruce! Really appreciate that! I still feel like I get all tongue-tied with the camera on but hopefully improving!
Thanks for all the videos so far, especially this one. U r very thorough on this brake job. Much appreciated!!!!
Thanks for the nice comment Chris! Appreciate it!
When done, do you pump the brakes first or apply the electric parking brakes first ? in order to reset the calipers
That's a good question Robert! I don't believe the order matters. The service data says to enable and disable the parking brake twice. This drives out the inner piston to contact the pad and then backs it off slightly. That is the only "calibration" needed for the parking brake. As you mention, it is always a good idea to pump the brakes several times until the pedal is firm before you put the car in gear in order to make sure the piston is hydraulically ready to activate. I don't think the order matters though.
So for that piston you basically just rotated it to the RIGHT until it stops then press in flush correct? Thanks
Yep, exactly, you can just rotate it in clockwise (looking at the top of the piston) until it stops rotating and then press it in the rest of the way until flush.
Great video, if I don't remove the electric cable and do the pads replacement would it affect the electronics in any way? One of the videos tells to keep the car on accessory mode while doing pads replacement.
Thanks for the nice comment! No, it is fine to leave the cable connected if you want to as long as you have enough room with the cable connected to still get the caliper off. Removing the cable can make it a little easier to manipulate the caliper by eliminating that restriction though. Obviously, you'll want to make sure that the parking brake does not get turned on when the caliper is removed from the vehicle though or else you might push the piston all the way out which can be a real problem! Removing the electrical cable prevents that possibility but as long as you ensure the parking brake doesn't get activated until you put the caliper back on then you will be fine.
I don't understand the rationale behind putting the car in accessory mode during pad replacement. I also don't see any mention of doing that in the service data. You should make sure that the parking brake is turned off before you start though. And if you have the automatic parking brake feature enabled then you will want to disable that.
Thank you for the clear explanation!
Great job bud. Where you a honda mechanic before ?
Thanks again BIG OSSO! Nope, I am an engineer though and as a result I think I like to do things by the book whenever possible!
Does the car need to be in service mode for this?
The brake service mode can be used to retract the inner parking brake piston fully so that it is not necessary to wind back the piston manually. However, this is not necessary as you can wind the piston back manually as shown in this video. In the brake job shown in the video, the brake service mode was not used. You should make sure you turn off the parking brake before starting (and disable the auto-parking brake feature if you use that). If interested, I have an entire video about options to retract the piston on this vehicle:
th-cam.com/video/ocLzmxy2RyM/w-d-xo.html
@@JohnsDIY great info!! Thank you!!