วีดีโอ

No, sorry I don't. Do you have failed injectors? I have heard that this has become a common problem on many Hondas. At least on some models, it seems like there was an assembly issue which caused the premature failure. On some models the warranty on the fuel injectors has been extended. So you might check with the dealer if there is a warranty extension or if they might work with you on this issue.

@@JohnsDIY just wanna know for future reference. I have 2018 Honda accord 1.5 around 44k miles. No issues with my car. I’ve done all the maintenance but like you know with these 1.5 a lot issues on some… thanks for the feedback

@@blackhawks1870 Thanks for the reply! Glad to hear no issues for you so far. I haven't had any major issues either and have over 170k miles so far on my 2018. I do have the outstanding recall for the fuel pump replacement but last I talked to the dealer, they still didn't have any fuel pumps in stock to do the recall at this point.

@@JohnsDIYyou should call other Honda dealerships near you, I called one and they’d had like 3 available I set up appt for 4 days later bc my tank was full. Service rep said it would be best if the tank wasn’t full. So I had to waste my gas lol

There are several places online which sell OEM Honda parts. I often use Majestic Honda (hondaautomotiveparts.com). They have locations in Rhode Island and Massachusetts which leads to quick shipping in the Northeast. I have always had good experiences buying from them.

I'm happy to hear that, and thanks for the comment!

I usually just use a plastic bristle brush (to not damage the rubber boot) and some brake cleaner. What method did you use to retract the inner piston? If the inner piston is not retracted (via running the motor, rotating the shaft, rotating the piston or entering maintenance mode on a scan tool) then you will not be able to just push in the outer piston.

Hello thanks for the reply I have not done the job yet but I'm planning on doing it soon I have a 2019 Honda insight I will be using the wind back method until it stops spinning then push the piston back in this will be my first time doing brakes with the epb any tips would be highly appreciated

@@luiscarrera5181 I see. In my experience, it is quite unusual to have any problem pushing back the piston due to rust/corrosion. On a vehicle only 5 years old I don't think you will have any problem. One thing I would recommend though. When you start rotating the piston, make sure that the boot is not rotating with it because you don't want the boot to get bunched up or damaged. If the boot is starting to rotate with the piston, you can just work it back and forth a bit until the boot frees up from the piston. I think you are referring to the comment that I made about wanting to use the hand pushback tool to feel the resistance. I have had a few times where it was very hard to push the piston back in and this did lead to issues down the road (sticky piston and excessive pad wear on that one wheel). In this unusual case, I think the only solution is to rebuild the caliper (remove the piston, clean it, replace the square cut seal) or get a new caliper. However, I think this is highly unlikely to be an issue on a 5 year old vehicle unless the boot had a tear in it or something. Good luck with the brake job!

Yep, If you search on ebay or Amazon for "duck head" you will find a bunch. Like this one: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CSFWP3SF/

Thanks for the comment! Are you sure that the error code was caused by windback w/o being in maintenance mode though? A common cause for the situation you describe (brake error code after brake job) is if you ever turn the vehicle on while the electric parking brake electrical connector is disconnected. This will definitely cause brake system error codes. I have never had any codes set after manually winding back a Honda caliper with EPB (electronic parking brake). Also, the Honda OEM service data includes procedures for parking brake retraction both using the HDS/Scantool/maintenance mode as well as without using a scan tool. The procedure it specifies for retraction w/o using a scantool is to simply remove the actuator and wind the shaft back by hand. It makes no mention of having to clear codes after (and in fact is the procedure if a scan tool is not used). Finally, the brake actuator has only two wires going to it. There is no position sensor or other telemetry. It is "calibrated" simply by turning on the parking brake. The motor turns on until the current increases indicating that it has fully engaged. So there is no real "calibration" of the parking brake - it simply recalibrates every time it is turned on. Therefore, there is no loss of calibration when the parking brake is manually rewound. If anyone is able to replicate this situation, I would be very interested if you were able to read back the codes and see what it is complaining about. Thanks!

Thanks for the nice comment! Appreciate that!

Haha, that would be great to be neighbors and trade repair stories! Good question! I replaced the brushes just for preventative maintenance, but it was probably much earlier than it needed to be done since even at 125k miles, the brushes were only about halfway worn down, so it seems like they would easily have made it to 200k miles or more. I have predominantly highway miles, so on a vehicle with more city miles, the brushes might wear out at somewhat lower mileage, but at 50k I expect there would be minimal brush wear. I put on a lot of miles and keep vehicles for a long time. My last Accord made it to 400k miles! So I look for these kinds of things to prevent problems down the road. Thanks for the comment!

I got it directly from the no-mar website. However, that was a while ago and now it looks like their products are white instead. Looks like they still have the same bar available though (just with the changed color). However, I did find that the no-mar bar could damage the tire bead unless you were really careful. That is why I now use the duckbill instead.

Yes, I believe that is correct. Maintenance mode causes the parking brake motor to run until the inner piston is fully retracted. However, it cannot pull in the outer piston since that just floats over the inner piston so that simply has to be pushed in which can be done without turning it.

Thanks for the nice comment!

Thanks for the nice comment and good luck with the water pump replacement! Let us know how it goes if you think of it!

@@JohnsDIY Just tackled it tonight. The one bolt on the back of the water pump was more of a pain than I expected, but I ultimately got it done once I figured out the correct combination of sockets and extensions. Thanks again for the video.

@@jobo1004 Yep, I'm with you - That bolt in the back is a real bugger to get to! Nice work getting the job done!

Thanks for the comment Steve! You have definitely got me beat on experience. I've only ever used this manual, hobbyist tire changer and never a commercial tire changer. However, I'm not sure what you mean about running it reversed? Do you mean the spin direction? I believe I was using the same effective rotational direction as is used on all the commercial automated tire changers I have seen. What might be confusing is that normally (on automated machines) the wheel rotates and the duckhead is stationary whereas on manual machines like this, the wheel is stationary and the duckhead rotates. On all the commercial tire changers I have seen (links to a few videos below for example), the tire spins in the clockwise direction. For the manual tire changer, this is equivalent to spinning the duckhead in the COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction, as I was doing in this video. Rotating the wheel clockwise is equivalent to rotating the duckhead counterclockwise. Notice that in the videos below using commercial tire changers as well as in my video with the manual changer, the trailing edge of the tire exits over the "bill" part of the duckhead because the relative rotation is the same. But let me know if you think differently or if I misunderstood your comment or if you know of other tire changers which operate differently. Here are a few examples of commercial tire changers, showing the wheel rotating clockwise (when looking down at it), which corresponds to rotating the duckhead counterclockwise in the manual tire changer: th-cam.com/video/8hOZXIr1ujE/w-d-xo.html www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsOUtR_lT th-cam.com/video/BsOUtR_lTeE/w-d-xo.html

Nope, I haven't replaced the drive belt tensioner pulley on mine. However, I did remove the belt tensioner assembly to get access to the water pump. If you want to see removal of the whole tensioner assembly, it is at about 19:00 in the following video: th-cam.com/video/hslktGrHUeY/w-d-xo.html It looks like the tensioner pulley is removed with just one bolt through the pulley. You might consider just replacing the whole tensioner assembly since the cost of the pulley plus the tensioner is more than the cost of the entire assembly. I agree, it makes sense to me to replace it if it is starting to rattle. Good luck with the repair!

@@JohnsDIY that is incredibly helpful! Thank you very much

Hi there. Well, it depends on the details. If just the outer piston slid off and the inner piston (which screws on to the rod) is still in place, then you should be fine. You can just push the outer piston back on, wind the piston back in and you should be good. However, if the inner piston unscrewed all the way then you will probably see little ball bearings coming out and it will be very difficult to reassemble because I don't know how you will get the ball bearings back in place. Let me know if that makes sense to me. I could send a picture if you don't see what I mean there.

Okay... soo... I started by taking out the wheels and then the caliper from the right side. I took out the old break pads, then I continued pushing the piston, until I realized I need it a specific tool to twisted like you show on the video, then I saw that you need it the computer to put it on maintenance mode, so I started searching for videos about how to do it manually, then I came across this video, where it said that there's a special way, by pressing the parking button a specific way, I fell for it and the piston went out of the "shell" after that I try twisting it back in with some pliers and it did went back but not like pushing it it was all twist

Sorry for the long text lol, I asked my friend for his computer and I put the car on maintenance mode, the left side was good it just needed the pushing but the right I think still bad, because all the panel lights are on like the (VSA, ABS, Break amber, and Break on red

​@@JohnsDIYyeah it makes sense! I watched your video and I'm like... "I still have hope that it'll get fix!"😢

@@luiscolorado4708 I see, if the outer piston went back on and you were able to screw it all the way back in, there is a good chance that everything should be okay. You might try cycling the parking brake on and off several times and see if the panel lights clear. There are very few electrical diagnostics that the PCM performs on the brake so there aren't many problems that it can detect. In fact, the only thing it can sense is the motor current into the parking brake motor.

Nice work!!! Thanks for the nice comments as well, I really appreciate it!

Good luck with the repair! Not sure which tools you mean, but if you don't have an impact driver to get out the screws, you can take a regular screwdriver and put it in the screw and give it a good whack with a hammer which really helps to loosen up the rust bond. For pulling the rotor, sometimes you can just get way with a few pounds on that hat/hub area of the rotor to loosen up the rust! Those forcing screws might work for you as well. Let us know how it goes!

@@JohnsDIY Should go okay - car is only 5 years old with 42,000 km - rotors are rust weary more than used. I do have an impact driver too as well an air powered right angle impact wrench. Biggest concern is pushing in the piston, actually. Should go okay. It's a 30 minute job but with a couple friends helping will probably take 2 hours...

@@AlanTheBeast100 Yep, should be no problem! To push in the piston, you can just rotate it in clockwise. You could use a $30 windback tool or even a $5 windback tool that has the little cube and goes into the ratchet to line up with the slots on the piston. Or you could even probably wind it back using a pair of needle nose pliers in those notches!! As long as it isn't too stuck!

@@JohnsDIY Yep - my friend provided me with a cube - seems to have various "key" points on it. Thx for the follow up!

@@AlanTheBeast100 Perfect, yep, I have successfully used one like that many times!

For a 2018 1.5T Accord, the thermostat is part #19310-6A0-A01 and includes the oring/gasket.

@@JohnsDIY Thank you 😊

Thanks very much for the nice comment! Really appreciate it!

Thanks Jose! Appreciate the comment and good luck replacing the belt on your Accord!

Interesting! Years ago it seemed like it was pretty common to have a belt shred up, but I haven't heard of that happening for quite some time! Pretty fortunate you were able to pull right into a shop though! I hope it is just the belt and not that some pulley seized up and caused the belt to shred. Let us know how you make out!

@@JohnsDIY well the car runs and the belt is spinning. Just parts of it are flopping around . I made sure all the pulleys were spinning too. Happened when I went to pass someone too. Felt like I blew a charge pipe or intercooler hose. That's what I thought it was at first. The belt had been looking kinda old. Just seems odd to have the factory honda style belt break at 66,000 miles. My car is a 19 though.

@@vermontvermont9292 That's good that it is just the belt and at least should be pretty inexpensive to fix! Yep, I'm with you, pretty surprised it would go at that little mileage/age.

@@JohnsDIY $156

​@@JohnsDIY car is STILL stuck in limp mode. Even after the new belt. I've checked every fuse, unhooked the battery, tried reseting the head unit, nothing works.

Thanks much for the nice comment! I'm actually an electrical engineer in my day job but I do like knowing how mechanical stuff works too! Thanks again!

Thanks Alex! That's a good tip! Makes sense, and I'll give that a try next time I unplug them!

Greetings to you in South Korea!! Thanks much for the nice comment! Nice to see that DIY is alive and well in South Korea too!

Nice work getting that job done yourself Daniel!! And thanks for the nice comment!