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@Liberty4Ever Thank you! Regarding the flow rate tuning, the values shown on each test print represent the multiplier that is applied to the default (prior to pass 1) or previously stored value (if running pass 2). This will either increase (positive number) or decrease (negative number), the flow rate value. Those adjustments are applied to the existing flow rate value that is stored if the material profile. This guide is meant to accompany the detailed tutorial that can be found in the Calibration drop down menu. It provides a visual aid to an existing/reliable resource and I encourage everyone to read through it if any questions arise. Always happy to extend the information either way! Thanks for your feedback and I hope this provided some clarification to that test specifically. Happy printing!

@@CovenantCustom - Not my first OrcaSlicer calibration video. :-) From watching other videos and reading through the OrcaSlicer tutorial, I knew what you were doing but a noob wouldn't. In every other case you did a very good job of explaining what you were doing and why, which is what people need to learn. It seemed noteworthy that you glossed over this one test. I only commented hoping to help you get the viewers' perspective. You clearly care about making good videos and I thought some constructive feedback could help. I did like your rationale for doing the preliminary flow rate test, then the pressure advance calibration, and then redo a finer flow rate test. I don't recall seeing that and your reasoning for that order does make sense. I need to stop playing around with new filaments and calibrate my SV08 for the filaments I use most often. Thanks for the information and the motivation.

@Liberty4Ever Had a feeling that it wasn't your first rodeo, so I left some details in the response for anyone who might have had the same question. I appreciate the constructive criticism and your perspective on that portion of the video! Now, to get that SV08 melting! Best wishes with getting it fine-tuned and providing the quality output that you're looking for! Thank you again for dropping in to provide some feedback. It is greatly appreciated! See you on the next one!

@chrisfuller1223 Happy that it helped you with your tuning process! One filament down and I'm sure, many more to follow! Happy printing!

@ShowBizGravvy Great question! It's best to think of your printer config as your overall machine operations and your slicer as a task that it is set to run. The values you alter in cfg files will set the parameters in which the machine will operate and the functions/features and even restrictions that it can provide (think confining build volume, setting input shaping values, setting rotation distance for a different gear set on the stepper motors or even fine tuning one - such as the rotation distance for your extruder - calling 100mm to be extruded and it extrudes 92mm - there is a formula to correct that, so that the length you call, is the length you get!). The slicer determines the composition of the printed file (quality, strength, speed, support and additional features to increase adhesion like using a brim to secure smaller prints/prevent the chance of warping on larger prints or selecting order of operations - i.e. sequence by layer or object and a few others that may or may not be applicable to your machines operations). If your question relates back to something like nozzle size or pressure advance, although my nozzle remains the same as my cfg value (0.4mm), the pressure advance set for the materials in these calibrations, override the preset value in your cfg. Regarding KAMP, the operation gathers bed mesh data from multiple points on the bed before isolating the area that the print will occupy. Make sure there is an include for KAMP in your printer.cfg The goal with all of my videos is to produce the same kind of content that I would be looking for if I was researching a specific topic. Truly happy to know that it has become such a great resource for you and many others in our printing community! I am looking forward to all of the projects that lie ahead and appreciate the support of everyone that is accompanying me on this journey! Until next time, happy printing!

@riodave4954 I've gone ahead to root all of my K1's and am running Guppy Screen on each. It's a different UI and provides some useful macros additionally (belt calibration for testing similarity/equivalent tension and input shaping - isolating X & Y - instead of measuring Y and applying it to both axes, among others).

@@CovenantCustom do you have a video on it? if not u wanna make one :D

@riodave4954 Have you rooted your machine yet? There are a wide variety of videos on the process using the Guilouz Helper Script. Once it is running the Helper Script, adding Guppy Screen takes 1-2 minutes! It is a really quick process to complete.

@@CovenantCustom been rooted the day it came out even when there was a hack for it. thanks!

@riodave4954 Well worth it to include Guppy Screen! There's no looking back! Have fun with it and happy printing 😎👍

@TommiHonkonen 😂😂😂

@tek9058 While this is also true, there is variation between filaments/materials that should be accounted for. Although that variation will be slim to none, depending, it is beneficial to run the VFA test with each calibration.

@Ducati1198desmo I'd run the ASA-CF and you'd have a stronger part quality than what I've been running 😎👍 That's going to change here shortly though. Almost time for a refresh!

@ i did a test print of abs and one of asa-cf and put both pieces in vice grip use the plier to see which one was stronger and the asa-cf cracks easier than the abs. Abs as less as a snap when breaking it with the pliers, so I was wondering what’s better a part that snaps easier or a ABS that has more flex for that x linear mod

@Ducati1198desmo It really depends on the manufacturer in regard to the base material. Who makes each filament?

@@CovenantCustom bambu lab asa-cf and creality hyper abs

@@CovenantCustom bambu asa-cf and creality hyper ans

I worry less about the printed values than I do on the surface quality of the rectangle itself. They should however be close in finish. If they have excessive edges, it is likely that it is still caused by overextrusion as the nozzle drags through molten material and creates ridges.

@@Steni1975 Here you go! github.com/tlace17/K1-Linear-Rail-Gantry/tree/main/STLs/Printable%20Spacers

@@CovenantCustom Thank you 😊

@Steni1975 You're welcome! Happy printing 😎👍

@the_hobbyhoarder PRTouch is unaffected during this install as far as hardware/MCU connections. I.e. I can comment out the Carto cfg and uncomment the PRTouch cfg to restore factory probing at any time. You would not be utilizing factory values for PRTouch if you were to enable it as you have to take into account the limitations for bed mesh/probing/build volume with the Carto present however.

@VirgoSquawks Happy to have you here! Thanks for your support 😎👍

@jonathonodonnell253 Yes definitely! Changing nozzle sizes will require their own profile. Due to the increase of the internal diameter from 0.4mm to 0.6mm, it will require revisiting the calibration process altogether.

@@CovenantCustomsince orca has changed somethings I’ve been doing the same with all my filaments. Also redoing the cal if I changed nozzle diameter. The only other thing I do is a Califlower to measure shrinkage. Most of the stuff I print has to fit with other real world items.

@jonathonodonnell253 All necessary steps to take in order to achieve dimensionally accurate prints! You've definitely got the right idea for keeping everything in spec.

Many thanks! I like to cover projects/processes in a way that if I was searching, it would be the resource that was needed. I am happy to know that these videos can be a resource for the 3D printing community. Thanks for dropping in to provide your input. Happy printing!

Welcome to the 3D printing community, we are happy to have you here! Thank you for being proactive with your research and finding this video to help guide you. Your efforts to look for the answers instead of asking the same question that is repeatedly posted will provide a wide range of support from those that have been printing for years. Thanks for dropping in and providing your feedback, it is sincerely valued. Now go forth and print great things! Happy printing 😎👍

@nigeldarl2009 Without the collar on the K1C, the factory bed leveling is ideal to avoid marring the lead screws. You can, however, fold and place a microfiber cloth around the lead screws to act as a barrier between the pliers and lead screw to carry out the same process. Perform the second option at your own risk, but it is an option to consider.

@Sugarkryptonite I start the calibration process by heat soaking the chamber. Once it arrives at 30-35C, I begin printing. Once a calibration print is complete, I'll pull the build tray immediately following and remove the print. The chamber will hold temperature for the entirety of the process, maintaining temp as more calibration prints are sent and completed. Never have any issues with ABS/ASA which is why it is my primary material for most prints!

@@CovenantCustom Thanks for the response. So when you pull the build tray immediately, you swap in another plate?

@Sugarkryptonite Although that is an option, I simply flex the plate (running PEI textured at 100C) and the prints release after a couple of minutes.

​ @CovenantCustom Hmm okay, thanks. I found on my bigger prints with ASA if I took the plate out of the heat right after printing, warping or cracking could occur. I guess for calibration it's not so bad, though. Also curious about the volumetric max flow rate test and best layer adhesion. I've found that even if the layer lines are nice up to a certain speed, layer adhesion takes a real hit. How do you take that into account? I'm struggling with it myself. I mostly just tried to crack the layers from the volumetric flow rate test by hand at different points to see where they were stronger, but it's not scientific. I saw you measured to the point with your calipers where the layers still looked good, but I think that layer adhesion is poor at those higher levels. In my experience with ASA, anyway. I've found I can only print at 10-13mm3/s with ASA to get good adhesion, so when I saw you put 35, I was intrigued.

@Sugarkryptonite With calibration prints, there is no need to let each plate cool. If we were looking for dimensional accuracy, then I would say that measuring the print after cooling down would be a requirement, but that concern does not apply for these tests. I do swap plates on larger prints not out of concern for any warping but due to the fact that removing a part from a PEI plate too soon could result in a cosmetic imperfection as it transfers that coating to the print itself. In the temp tower, you can check the quality of layer adhesion by breaking the spires with something like an allen key. The greater the resistance it has, the better the layer adhesion will be.

@geist.3D Thank you! It's my goal in 2025 to expand the horizons, branch out and cover additional machines, projects and processes. I appreciate you stopping by whether you own a K1 or not. Looking forward to the shift of providing more videos for the 3D printing community as a whole this year. See you on the next one!

@@CovenantCustom Me too! its a good creative outlet. it's fun and you have the talent!

@@CovenantCustom uploading my next video now! 🚀

@@geist.3D I think so! I enjoy the process and knowing that it provides a resource for the 3D printing community makes it all worth it!

@@geist.3D There we go! I'm here to support it 😎👍

Giving back to the community is what it is all about! 😎Truly happy that you thought so.

@CovenantCustom I sure did. 👍

@@solidworkstraining Will be covering a gantry squaring procedure in my next video release. Will work to release it with any free time I have available in the coming week. Stay tuned!

Happy printing! 😎👍

@davids8458 If you access the Calibration drop down on the top left of the page, you can access all of the tests shown. They will automatically set your input values to produce the necessary changes through the process of each test. Happy printing!

@TheGlitterMan I'd suggest keeping the default scale just due to the values and operations that are being tested. It is a worthwhile use of filament and yields considerable returns on the 100g that is utilized.

@@CovenantCustom When I'm using Creality Print 6 the flow test didn't fit my V3SE so I have to click yes to fit the print bed. I'm still trying to figure out the right setting for Inland PLA+ WHITE that I got from MicroCenter.

@TheGlitterMan I can confirm that with the same build volume on the Creality K1 used in this video, no adjustments are required through Orcaslicer. Some filaments can be tricky to work with but knowing what to look for so that an expected value is an accurate choice was my biggest hang up when I was performing calibrations years back. Just takes a little bit of time to get the hang of is all! Happy printing!

@@CovenantCustom Hopefully I can somewhat Lessen stringing during my print. Any recommend when printing a small cylinder around 9mm?

@TheGlitterMan Make sure the filament has been properly dried and that it remains dehydrated during the print. Make sure that you arent melting the filament too hot; good rule of thumb is to stay within the range that the manufacturer suggests. Pay close attention to the retraction settings test to help eliminate stringing.

@Glockziller It could be the version of Orca that you have

@Ducati1198desmo I typically tune for 120Hz which reads 2.4 on the West3D tensioner and -4.85 on the Biqu 👍

I would personally tune each and every filament that is being run through the printer for the first time. Although some profiles may be close, the formula that each company uses may differ from not only other manufacturers but even from batch to batch. I dedicate a profile to each filament and name it by manufacturer, material, color (and can even go as far as noting the machine it was tuned on and the nozzle size). You can take an existing profile and try it on another filament if you are in a pinch which might work or get you close, requiring small adjustments. To rule out any unusual behavior while printing, I prefer calibrating the filament before I begin sending prints.

@@CovenantCustom Thanks

I've never gotten a dB reading on them but they are quite noisy. Some machines have profiles that run silent/stealth values but that isn't a concern for me. If you are talking about the MCU fan, it is set to a max temp of 100C by default. It is unlikely that it will reach that (especially if your fan is running full speed - there is actually benefit to it as it is preventing the mainboard from overheating) but definitely interesting that you are experiencing that issue. It could be possible that the fan is on its way out and showing symptoms through louder than normal operation. For example, my extruder fan on one of my machines just started screaming so I've got a replacement on the way. In contrast, I only ever hear my extruder fan as auxiliary and exhaust are useless in my prints. The MCU although on and running never presents considerable noise. Happy to hear that this helped you as it has with all of my machines and many others that received a leveling procedure this way!

@@robertwagner605 Will be something I look into for future videos. Thanks for the input!

You can also simplify the flow rate math. In his case, 0.926 * 1.05 = 0.9723. This way, you don't have to remember to divide by 100.

@@corneliofehr8001 I do this on occasion if I'm not confident in how well the layers are holding. Great tip! Appreciate you dropping in with that info for the community to put to use!

@corneliofehr8001 Another great piece of info! I tried to follow the guide as closely as possible to prevent confusion if compared/utilized alongside the video but that formula does the job as well!

@JeffWdz-u8u I believe that the gantry parts are on their final revision as other projects are now under way. I do like the idea of using the CFS upfit kit on the K1 but don't believe that BCJ will be revisiting these parts.

Alright, in that case, we can only hope that a member of the community takes the initiative to create a modification to make the kit compatible. It would truly be amazing to combine both and fully enjoy the benefits of each mod. In the meantime, I already have all the parts needed to complete the Linear Rail mod-now it’s just a matter of hoping!

@@JeffWdz-u8u We will have to wait and see! In order to make the necessary changes, the CAD drawings/step files would need to be released to make any alterations. The improvement provided through quality output and performance make this mod worth installing but I do agree, having an MMU with this set up is tempting. Due to the price to perform the CFS upgrade and the delay in bringing it to market, I may have already found another option to consider altogether. Details will be discussed in the coming months!

Yes, that’s exactly why I planned to install it! I had just ordered all the parts, and with your installation video, it was perfect. Honestly, I don’t think the upgrade is that expensive, especially since you get a new extruder, the filament sensor integrated directly into the print head, and no more little waste. Plus, we can finally do multicolor printing! And if I’m not mistaken, it’s the same price as Bambulab’s AMS. Oh really, what are you considering as an alternative? Because I’ve also pre-ordered the CFS.

@Stummel01 The tensioners received more thought for the linear rail upgrade. Being easy to access/adjust is well worth it. Especially if you have to tear down the motion system regardless. I wouldn't see a reason not to but belt pathing is similar and may work temporarily if you had wanted to try!

Welcome to the 3D printing community, we're happy to have you here! This video should help provide some foundational knowledge to your printing process. Thank you for the feedback, it is greatly appreciated! In regard to the mention of markers on the calibration tests, I actually prefer that they don't! The reason behind this is, a higher level of precision can be achieved by using calipers and a formula for that specific test. The max volumetric test for example shows the steps but regardless of them being present, I will always try to find the best measurement when filament tuning and a set of calipers is necessary for that approach. It is an incredibly helpful tool to have in the collection and used among a variety of printer related projects otherwise! I will be covering my go to tools in an upcoming video. Thanks for stopping by and I look forward to seeing you on the next one! Happy printing!

I appreciate that! My approach for every video is to capture each process in a way that is easy to follow and apply. Happy to know that I was able to provide that for you! 3D printed upgrades are always fun, especially when they provide better output/performance/stability 😎Thanks for your feedback and happy printing!

@Meszaross3D Same mounting points as factory! Just uses the existing threads and mounts right up.

​@@CovenantCustom super, few item is on the way, rest are already had, my x axis is stuck graphs are bad. Bearings also screaming after 350h printing lol

@Meszaross3D You will benefit greatly from this modification! I enjoyed the process and the results it provided! Over 1000 hours in on both machines

@10rodri The goal is to have no resistance and graphene rods are naturally low-friction because of their make up. Move the printhead along X and confirm there is no binding first. If there is build up, clean the rods before all else. Retest, and if there is still resistance, consider using graphite as a lubricant. Especially so with the graphene rods.

@CovenantCustom thank you very much! I was just about to do the maintenence on mine and ad beginner it worries me!. Going to get super lube and mobil for the other rods.

@10rodri Since you aren't running a linear rail, to save a few dollars, you can run super lube on Y/Z linear rods and lead screws 👍👌

@hwm2342 The purpose for this is to let the Y rods find positioning during the install of the gantry back into the top frame and additionally, the top frame being reinstalled onto the machine. Once reinstalled and the gantry is squared, it is suggested to perform the necessary calibrations after the appropriate cfg values have been input. Send some prints and after it has seen some use (5-10 hours), the Y rods should have settled in a good position where you can tighten the set screws. Just check them during your routine maintenance/service every 250-500 hours of run time and you're good to go! Feel free to check out my recent service video where I cover my go to checks and procedures. Happy printing!

@herrrenato Big improvements coming for your machine! Happy to know that this guide will be here to help you through the process. Take your time, don't rush it, and enjoy the project! Happy printing 😎

@CovenantCustom I already finished, works great

@herrrenato Sounds like you made quick work of it! Wishing you nothing but great prints! Take care of the printer and it will return the favor. Enjoy!

@@CovenantCustom thanks a lot! I made it because it was frustrating seeing my overtuned ender 3v2 to print way better then the k1max. I did so many things but nothing helped that much as the rail conversion. Now it's only a little z-wobble that disturbes me. The next mod will be a trident kit😅

@herrrenato I know what you mean! I could appreciate the performance that these machines provided out of the box (quite literally - I bought them used with a few spares included) but wanted to perform modification to improve the issues that they were delivered with. These machines could definitely benefit from oldham couplers on the lead screws. I fully support the Trident thought process. Grow your collection and enjoy the journey. I will be adding more machines to mine next month. Hint: They are not more K1's Stay tuned!

@RocktCityTim If you've tuned and tested it with good results, I'd say to keep printing but if you are genuinely curious or if your prints aren't as precise as you are hoping for, by all means, try it out!

@joesrevoloution While running carto the build volume will be 226.5, 204, 252. This still allows me to fit most prints and if they don't fit, it is not likely that they would have in stock configuration. Great mod overall and I've been pleased with both of my machines that are equipped with it! One thing I did notice over time is that the factory MCU is a bottleneck and struggles to run the Carto due to the required bandwidth. I would start with the gantry mod and revisit the Carto as it's best chance will be operating under the power of a different mainboard altogether. By experiencing these problems first hand (even with an attempt to resolve it by running Simple AF), it allows me the opportunity to discuss potential hang ups. The Creality mainboard is definitely one of them but I'll be working on producing a video project on how to overcome that in the not so distant future.

@CovenantCustom awesome thanks very much! Looking forward to the new video.

@joesrevoloution Looking forward to having you here for its release. My K1's are running around the clock currently but when I have some replacement printers, I'll be able to pull the one outfitted with a Carto to complete it!

I'd suggest trying another browser if that is the case. Just to check, I opened up the document page and the links were all functioning as intended. Doesn't appear to be related to the bill of materials links unfortunately.

@@CovenantCustomso another question. I have a K1 max. Is there any way to keep LiDar?

@ThatRCchannelNC In theory, it should be possible to retain. Worst case scenario, you limit your X max value or do as I did and remove it from the machine altogether.

Always happy to help out the community. Happy printing!

@brownlkt Unfortunately it would not due to mounting location on the 270 hinges conflicting with the braces.

@@CovenantCustom Thanks

@brownlkt We all start somewhere and it's a process where you just keep on learning! I cover what I'm familiar with to help those that are unfamiliar. As time progresses, my knowledge will expand and so will yours through whatever resources you find provide the greatest help! Thanks for stopping by and showing your support. Happy to have you here!

@eqnish This flanged bearing option is an improvement over idlers in terms of performance in rotation, however you should be able to utilize the pulleys in the factory mounts if you would like. With a majority of the belt seated on the bearing sleeve, the pressure is distributed well enough that after hundreds of hours on both of my linear rail swapped machines, I can confirm the concern that you have with the flanged bearings is a non-issue. I do tend to run my belts at a higher tension (130Hz) than the 110-120Hz margin that is suggested, which would in theory, contribute to additional wear but it has not. This configuration is just my preference. If you'd like to install pulleys instead, I'd support that decision if it's your preference. Happy printing! 😎

@@CovenantCustom thanks for the feed back, I have not really liked the Creality designed/chosen use of pulleys, specifically using flat pulleys where the belts "teeth" run against...In the few printers I have built I always but teeth to teeth (if that makes since) and smooth to smooth) on my current K1 Maxs I am seeing build up on the flat pulleys which I never saw on my other printers... but who knows, I'm not an engineer :) Thanks again for the feed back

@eqnish Being a car enthusiast, I agree with you on belts and their pathing with various drive/idler pulleys. The engineers certainly do it for good reason! This application meets the expectations that I was looking to receive and after plenty of use (this video covered the upgrade on my second machine - 6 months after consistent use on my first K1 which had received the same upgtade) I support the process/equipment.

@jasperder Welcome to the 3D printing community, we're happy to have you! I really do appreciate that, it means a lot! As you are new to printing, all of this is relatively new to me and I'm happy that others are enjoying the material in these videos. Thanks for dropping into the comments to share. I've got some simple video projects coming up that may not improve your printer but will improve your printing experience. Stay tuned!

@CovenantCustom thank you 🙂. I will watch them but dont stress yoursellf your content ist greait its worth waiting on it 🙂.

@@jasperder It is a goal of mine to be able to dedicate the time necessary to share more helpful information with this close knit community! Look forward to seeing you on the next one!

@@ThePrintableWatchCo These printers will definitely give back what you put in. I'm happy to know that you've found it useful!

Tune filament, empty a spool, swap in another, repeat 😎 Happy printing!

In theory, the value that you set it to in the calibration as well as the filament profile should effectively change the value for that filament. I can confirm this as my filament profiles, differ from my cfg values and it still produces the desired results with the appropriate value set in the slicer.