LMAO i know the feeling helping friends with thier P1s! this was fun to watch! for those who want to make it easier you can have a buddy put the car in gear and hold the brakes and ebrake if you dont want to remove the engine mount. but this requires having a friend....
Loving this content, reminds me of the good old days working on my C30 T5. That airbox is a bit tricky but it gave you a very hard time, when i removed mine with my buddy it didn't take us very long, though mine was a RHD facelift model. Heres some info for anybody reading from my experience. Those ECUs run hot, especially on the pre-facelift cars hence why Volvo put it in the intake system, for cooling. It will work fine on a bracket but if you sit in traffic on a hot day it will get toasty...ive seen them fail on the pre facelifts but as long as it gets some airflow it will be okay. The open intake systems like those elevate dyno higher but I think they lose power on freeway speeds due to lack of ram air effect. What you can do is add hood vents, like on the Focus RS that helps a lot, you can also leave the stock snorkel in but remove the plastic rain guard some air will come through at speed, or alternatively run the stock intake with a ECU spacer and a K&N panel filter for the max cold air effect. I didnt have much with that elevate turbo intake pipe, lots of issues with it vibrating against the AC lines and causing pedal vibration, Also if your engine mounts are worn it will knock into the AC lines during shifts. Anyway going to go provide some support on patreon for you guys !
Remember to put some duct tape or padding on the vacuum lines near the fire wall right behind the intake tube, when the engine shifts they can rub against the intake and cause damage.
I’m 2 years into building my 2011 C30 and the secret(s) to doing any work in the engine bay is to put it up on ramps so you can easily get to the top and bottom… and lots of patience, but that said, if you can’t figure it out don’t force things. These are well designed. They just crammed a lot of engine in a small car.
Just completed everything in this video....i thought it would be 2 hours...took me about 10 hours!! Air box and turbo intake pipe went flying when I finally got them off!
it may not be as efficient at the stock box but I can tell you from experience, removing it makes it easier to work around the engine and that in itself is a tremedous benefit
Thanks for the Volvo videos. Tonight I installed an Elevate intake plenum on a 2015 p*, I had a D088 performance intercooler installed. In March I will have a D088 performance turbo intake pipe installed along with a Heico E.motion piggyback ECU which came by way of Heico in Australia. This vid and the install of the plenum makes me think I will have my local performance shop do the installation for me.
I just learned the hard way with my C30 If you drop a bolt, take the time to find it especially if you don't hear it hit the ground, that bolt will bounce around on that belly pan and eventually hit a moving part... namely the serpentine belt system. I'm still asessing the damage and am hoping it's just the AC compressor pully (need a file to fix some dings.) Took out both my belts though and the alternator seems to have died at the same time.
Not sure why you battles with the airbox and ECU... Lift of the ECU lid, pull the plugs, pull the airbox towards you, slip to right and up... Many tube videos on how to get it out... Check the IPID video specifically made using a C30... Btw, why did you try loosen the ECU, it comes out with the airbox...
@@nboy7 I agree... Not sure if he's trying to scare others away or trying to make the vid more extreme but damn I took mine airbox out the same day I got my Volvo and that took like max 4 minutes... Must agree though that the rubber hose on the turbo inlet is a pita but not 2 gates away from a train wreck... On the intake is suggest attaching the lower clamp to silicone hose with duct tape after tightening it to intake pipe and then slipping it on turbo and then just tightening on clamp back down behind the motor instead of two and the second then being with pipe in place...
Working on these cars is far from being hard yes its tight but with patience you can get everything done you just need to do it the right way most of the time if you struggle to get something done than your not doing it right
So with that cone filter mounted where it is..where is it getting cold air from? From my own experience, I temporarily had the same intake setup (cone directly in front of the engine block) but i had the plastic air scoop piece still in the factory place (which connects to the tubing before the airbox) which was providing air to the cone. Performance with that setup was awful - it was great for noise but throttle and turbo spool up both suffered badly, and it heat soaked like there was no tomorrow. Plus fuel consumption suffered. A better setup would be to replicate the mk2 focus RS airbox OR mount a cone filter where you have put the ecu, that way the cone isnt soaking up heat from the engine, plus the ecu can be mounted using the mk2 focus rs ecu bracket and cover (in front of the plenum). You could order these from uk shops. Id put money on it that with this setup youre losing low down and mid range power, only to gain a little bit of flow high up in the rev range...
mcgherkinstudios yep, as i said ive experienced what its like with essentially the same intake setup, just different brand parts. It made it much slower overall.
From my experience setups like the elevate will dyno higher since the hood is usually open on a dyno run, when upto highway speed you might lose some power. Though the car will sound nicer and be a bit more responsive on the throttle. I used to use a C30Crew ECU spacer and a K&N panel filter in the stock airbox and that gave me a good balance. Though a friend of mine had focus RS vents on his C30 with a cone filter and Focus RS intake pipe and that thing was a beast.
nboy7 thats pretty much what i said. Peak dyno power doesnt translate to drivability though...low down and mid range will suffer as theres no air hitting the cone filter until youre at speed. Theres a reason why volvo used a closed air intake, cone filters just increase noise, but performance suffers.
@@lastexile1187 Sorry i couldnt see your whole post earlier. Towards the end with my C30 i started to try and set it up to get more top end power because i found that compared to all the new AWD hot hatches coming out that i didnt have any hope matching them off the line but often i could reel them in when upto speed. A tuned T5 has so much torque...probably too much, so i switched my tune from elevate to polestar and made changes to my intake (filter + spacer, remove rain guard). So honestly if the car is going to end up with a K16 later the cone setup isnt actually that bad an idea because if youre doing drags you really want that K16 to sing up top so you can catch your target after the inevitably slow FWD launch youll have. But id still want the RS hood vents or maybe a NACA duct.
nboy7 definitely needs some sort of cold air feed hitting the cone filter, regardless of the turbo used. I think these guys need at least 50 more horsepower over the fk8 civic they want to challenge. I mean they keep talking about how their s60r is an m3 beater but we never saw such a video 😂
All you have to do to make the stock intake come out easy is undo the engine mount under the coolant expansion tank at the front of the engine and jack the engine up a bit.
Tu travailles bien ne lâche pas! j'aime beaucoup ton projet c'est très intéressant et j'apprends beaucoup de choses sur cette génération de volvo. j'adore!
Yup, when you get more than elbow deep into the engine bay, you'll find there are a lot of what I like to call "Volvo'isms" that you'll run into. Just weird, out of left field design choices that make working on the car a fucking nightmare. That is also a very odd location for the ECU. Just WTF. In the R's it's on the left in a nice cartridge type holder. I thought that was nice. :/ Glad you got it out though! :D 8:49 - Elevate TCV on the firewall? That intake kit is beautiful! :)
I think Volvo did a pretty good job fitting the T5 into the C30 and C70. If you think about it, it's not a big engine bay and the T5 at 2.5L with turbo piping can make thinks bulky. It's not like the 850 it's more like a T5 jammed into a Civic.
I've been working on Volvo for a long time and you definitely need an assortment of extensions, sockets and crows foot wrench sockets help out alot. Torque wrench can be your friend when working on Volvos too.
Also you should relocate the battery to the trunk. I don't think there is a kit out there but it's not that hard. The new found space in engine bay is amazing.
I've just replaced the PCV Filter housing on my v50 T5 and following the FCP Euro tutorial on TH-cam had no issues getting the air box out (too five mins) but honestly, it just have to moved a bit to the right to access the bolts and it's not necessary to remove the ECU.
Yeah the air box comes out easier when you remove the engine mount and raise the engine a bit , and the ecm is located there so it pulls heat from the ecm that’s why it has a seal . 👌🏾
No need to remove the ECU. Just finished replacing the starter and thermostat. Pain in the ass taking/replacing the airbox. Did it without breaking anything. I used a rope around the middle lower slide in circular tab to pull it over the thermostat housing while sliding the airbox down to the left. I've got three torx screws leftover...it was so aggravating, I forgot where they went. 🤔
I have installed that same intake on my 2005 Volvo v50 t5 and yes it was a real pain in the ass to remove that air box. it was a hell lot easier than replacing the head gasket though which I did about 2 months ago.
Loosen the passenger side motor mount (2 bolts) then jack the engine up about one half inch and you're good to go. Did you mention how you have to separate the ECU from the airbox (hopefully before you throw it across the shop) and then relocate and secure the ECU to another location close by because of the shortness of it's wiring harness.
Lol, the woes of bolt-on... I never did relocate the vacuum assembly for the KN system... rubbed into the hood liner for 10 years... never a problem. FMIC is not going to be easier. Get a dental tool/hooked prod set (unsharpened!) and some silicone spray/dielectric grease, got to get under those boot surfaces gently! Treadmill lube is the lightest good silicone I've found, but that was a long time ago... really regretting selling the C30 but I had one that kept having water intrusion issues... once you pull the interior out once or twice it's easy to pressure wash everything!
Looking to get a C30 1.6 diesel I feel your frustration…. We that work on cars know what it’s like….. I talk to myself many times while delving below bonnets as we brits call em….I probably should be certified😂😂…. Well done😎💪🏼
I didnt want to raise the engine to get the airbox out so i cut the mountings with yes, a breadknife..... (did not have anything else at the moment) and i cut my hand pretty bad when it slanted xD Got my Simota in place ofc.. Just a bit of blood in the engine compartment :D
This was a absolute nightmare to install (especially with aus/nz/jpn RHD cars, where you need to destroy the plastic firewall cover), but the results are soo worth it. For those planning to install this, i found it way easier and safer to install the tube to the turbo silicon joiner from the bottom of the car, this way you don't risk scratching a hole through the thin aluminum.
Removing the stock air box it worth it for future maintenance alone, changing items like the PVC system, upper radiator hose and even the oil is 10x easier with the air box out of the car. As for power, you’ll see more or less the same results as with the DP, more torque but not a lot more HP.
So jealous, I'm thinking I might start working on my car.. I want my S60 to tear up the streets.. It's already around 247 hp, "high pressure" turboed from the factory
I felt the same way when I put KN intake on my 07 C70.......I was so mad that I even tried to remove the front bumper and other parts in order to get the air box out. However, I got it out somehow without damaging it or removing any other parts...there's one tricky angle and you have to pull it specifically towards a point, and it will come out in one piece......took me about 15 minutes....in the cold...
Go to FLEAbay or ??? and get a copy of the VIDA/DICE computer interface box and software. In the software is a Volvo service manual. You will find the factory recommends to break the motor mount loose and tilt the engine backwards. If you knew this you could have pulled the airbox out in minutes instead of hours. - Nice video though, and THANKS FOR POSTING!! Shifting Lanes is quickly becoming my favorite channel.
Homie should have disconnected the battery before disconnecting the ecu and that air box can come out with ecu no need to loosen the upper engine mount
Looks nice and shiny, however just a few points to consider. Firstly the MAFS is still the same internal diameter as the original intake piping, so that's somewhat of a bottleneck. As for heat soak affecting the air into the turbo, well it's passing through there very quickly and is then heated by compression of the turbo anyway, and any difference is likely negligible. Then the post turbo air still uses the old "narrow" piping under the engine to get thru to the stock I/C and into the stock intake manifold. But I presume these items will be upgraded. Also if it were my car, bearing in mind testing I read about regarding the temps that ecu heatsink develops, I'd still want airflow over it for the longevity of those components.
Of course. They're trying to sell products and dont want ppl to not buy because something looks difficult. That said some ppl have good luck. I had bad luck. Lol.
I'm thinking about putting a do88 cold air intake on a C70 with the same engine, thanks for the video and the hell I'm going to go through!! At the end of the video sucking air from the top of a hot engine seems like a terrible idea, that is not a cold air intake
What about the ECU cooling ? I wish to upgrade my C30 but ECU still remain ? I had same frustration when i wanted to disassemble housing air filter... I have disassemble all before the car. To change PCV valve and then, housing oil filter.
Have had any issues with the ECU overheating? I installed this last night, took about 2-1/2 hours. I'd taken out the airbox recently twice so this time took only a few minutes. I was sweating having to deal with the inlet reducer after watching this video but that wasn't too bad, either. But it took about 15 tries getting the intake pipe to slip into the reducer, there's definitely a trick to it. But after taking it for an easy 15-minutes drive for the system to re calibrate, etc., I noticed the ECU was hot to the touch. Didn't occur to me until just then that, hey, maybe the ECU was mounted on the airbox for a reason. Wondering if you had issues and if so how you handled it. I don't want to fry my ECU.
I have the exact same T5 same color. Would you happen to know what bolts are needed to attach an under carriage splash under the engine. I'm ordering one, but don't know what bolts or screws it takes. Would you happen to have that information handy?
I noticed the bottom half of the air box had a massive hole in the bottom aka the Swiss cheese mod do you know if this made any difference to power or sound of the turbo
Hey i just bought a 2008 volvo c30 t5, same as your car manual. ive decided from watching your videos to buy the elevate intake system. Before i go ahead and install the kit, how did you extend the vacuum line to fit the intake tubing in?? thanks a lot !
Be better with a bigger engine bay, I dunno v70 maybe!! Also be interesting to see a dyno now it’s fitted I’d bet it’s less power when hot from radiator heat soak.
I didn't have nearly as much of an issue with the stock airbox, but I had to enlist my lady and her tiny hands to get that f'ing lower clamp on and off for the charge pipe...I bled all over that thing trying to squeeze my arms in that tiny space.
And what about the overheating of ECU? Design-wise is located that air box. The back part of ECU ( cooling aluminium block ) is faced inside the Air box so the sucked air passing that block and cooling it down. Does the heat in engine bay affect the ECU now ?
I live in South Africa, i have relocated my ecu. Here where I live temps have been in the 40*C range and not issue with ECU overheating... Its a myth...
the focus st, that also uses this engine, has its ecu in a plastic box with no air flowing over it so I'm sure this being able to have air pass over it will be fine.
Ford focus have a same engine but i think they have their own ECU. Also ford doesnt have that unusual air "tunel" to battery. But good to hear, that ECU is fine without cooling in Volvo too.
I'm about to buy a few parts from Elevate, including this intake. You did move then engine back after getting the pipe in there right? May be a dumb question but I want to know if the engine will have to stay moved foward after that intake goes in.
I had the same problem, not worth it. In retrospect i should have used a Ford RS intake pipe or a K&N typhoon, but with small mods the factory airbox can work extremely well.
Filter is good but now it will suck the hot air from the engine witch will make it worse than it was :D that filter needs to be shielded from the engine in order to take advantage from it :) airboxes from the factory are made for a reason :)
When you change the intercooler, will you reverse the flow. That’s supposed to add horsepower. Also wondering if you are going to add a strut brace. It helped the cornering on my 97 850 R. The old professor
Daniel G it's the exact same for all years of the C30 T5. I didn't have that much trouble with mine either, but I think we're the exception to the rule.
Hello I was wondering if I’m a c30 t5 if you could just remove the air box and install just a aftermarket intake filter onto the stock intake pipes, and then just get a ecu relocated piece as well? Love the videos.
Jesus, dude I installed a similar K&N kit and it was so much easier, no need to lose the motor mounts or anything, just rip the air box, install the bracket to relocate the ecu and exchange the pipes, way easier than yours
Hi guys been waiting for you guys to get round to the intake. That looked such a crap job to get that old airbox out and turbo intake hose off. My tool kit and patience is not that good was looking to do this on my driveway how long in total did it take? When you moved the ecu was the wiring able to stretch to its new position? Also when you removed it and that clamp broke how easy was to put it back on? In the uk ford focus st uses same engine but the intake system they use house the filter to the right rather than sitting in front of the motor thinking of going for that rather than elevates system. One last thing we need to hear how it sounds inside and outside the car. Cheers guys love your volvo vids👍
It took me about 6ish hours, most of which was spent trying to remove stock components. The ecu is actually closer to the wiring so that wasn't an issue at all. The clamp on the ecu was a bit fiddly to get back on, it didn't break it just poped off which apparently happens on this mod. Ill be trying to get some sound clips, right now the only difference is you can actually hear the turbo now but it isnt loud by any stretch. Thanks for watching.
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Great work, I love how u show everything is not easy, instead of editing it out, I appreciate it
Yesssss its time for volvo content....let me take my popcorn
LMAO i know the feeling helping friends with thier P1s! this was fun to watch!
for those who want to make it easier you can have a buddy put the car in gear and hold the brakes and ebrake if you dont want to remove the engine mount. but this requires having a friend....
Having a friend...there's always a catch. 😔
Loving this content, reminds me of the good old days working on my C30 T5. That airbox is a bit tricky but it gave you a very hard time, when i removed mine with my buddy it didn't take us very long, though mine was a RHD facelift model.
Heres some info for anybody reading from my experience. Those ECUs run hot, especially on the pre-facelift cars hence why Volvo put it in the intake system, for cooling.
It will work fine on a bracket but if you sit in traffic on a hot day it will get toasty...ive seen them fail on the pre facelifts but as long as it gets some airflow it will be okay.
The open intake systems like those elevate dyno higher but I think they lose power on freeway speeds due to lack of ram air effect. What you can do is add hood vents, like on the Focus RS that helps a lot, you can also leave the stock snorkel in but remove the plastic rain guard some air will come through at speed, or alternatively run the stock intake with a ECU spacer and a K&N panel filter for the max cold air effect.
I didnt have much with that elevate turbo intake pipe, lots of issues with it vibrating against the AC lines and causing pedal vibration, Also if your engine mounts are worn it will knock into the AC lines during shifts. Anyway going to go provide some support on patreon for you guys !
Thanks for the input, suggestions and support!
Remember to put some duct tape or padding on the vacuum lines near the fire wall right behind the intake tube, when the engine shifts they can rub against the intake and cause damage.
Just bought the turbo intake pipe and it keeps rattling against these pipes. Cant be good. Elevate has offered no help to resolve
I’m 2 years into building my 2011 C30 and the secret(s) to doing any work in the engine bay is to put it up on ramps so you can easily get to the top and bottom… and lots of patience, but that said, if you can’t figure it out don’t force things. These are well designed. They just crammed a lot of engine in a small car.
I lived this same experience with airbox removal. hell. pure hell.
You need to raise the engine for removal and remove the engine mount
Just completed everything in this video....i thought it would be 2 hours...took me about 10 hours!! Air box and turbo intake pipe went flying when I finally got them off!
it may not be as efficient at the stock box but I can tell you from experience, removing it makes it easier to work around the engine and that in itself is a tremedous benefit
Thanks for the Volvo videos. Tonight I installed an Elevate intake plenum on a 2015 p*, I had a D088 performance intercooler installed. In March I will have a D088 performance turbo intake pipe installed along with a Heico E.motion piggyback ECU which came by way of Heico in Australia. This vid and the install of the plenum makes me think I will have my local performance shop do the installation for me.
I feel your pain, The intake was a pain in the ass.
I left the ECU on until the box was out though. was a lot easier.
I just learned the hard way with my C30 If you drop a bolt, take the time to find it especially if you don't hear it hit the ground, that bolt will bounce around on that belly pan and eventually hit a moving part... namely the serpentine belt system. I'm still asessing the damage and am hoping it's just the AC compressor pully (need a file to fix some dings.) Took out both my belts though and the alternator seems to have died at the same time.
Not sure why you battles with the airbox and ECU... Lift of the ECU lid, pull the plugs, pull the airbox towards you, slip to right and up... Many tube videos on how to get it out... Check the IPID video specifically made using a C30... Btw, why did you try loosen the ECU, it comes out with the airbox...
Lol yeah my friend and i removed this off my C30 during a lunchbreak, it was fiddly by nowhere near as bad as how he struggled.
@@nboy7 I agree... Not sure if he's trying to scare others away or trying to make the vid more extreme but damn I took mine airbox out the same day I got my Volvo and that took like max 4 minutes... Must agree though that the rubber hose on the turbo inlet is a pita but not 2 gates away from a train wreck... On the intake is suggest attaching the lower clamp to silicone hose with duct tape after tightening it to intake pipe and then slipping it on turbo and then just tightening on clamp back down behind the motor instead of two and the second then being with pipe in place...
Working on these cars is far from being hard yes its tight but with patience you can get everything done you just need to do it the right way most of the time if you struggle to get something done than your not doing it right
More Volvo videos!!!
Nice job, Chad! Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.
I’ll never own a Volvo, but it’s nice to see someone overcome frustrating procedures.
So with that cone filter mounted where it is..where is it getting cold air from? From my own experience, I temporarily had the same intake setup (cone directly in front of the engine block) but i had the plastic air scoop piece still in the factory place (which connects to the tubing before the airbox) which was providing air to the cone. Performance with that setup was awful - it was great for noise but throttle and turbo spool up both suffered badly, and it heat soaked like there was no tomorrow. Plus fuel consumption suffered. A better setup would be to replicate the mk2 focus RS airbox OR mount a cone filter where you have put the ecu, that way the cone isnt soaking up heat from the engine, plus the ecu can be mounted using the mk2 focus rs ecu bracket and cover (in front of the plenum). You could order these from uk shops. Id put money on it that with this setup youre losing low down and mid range power, only to gain a little bit of flow high up in the rev range...
mcgherkinstudios yep, as i said ive experienced what its like with essentially the same intake setup, just different brand parts. It made it much slower overall.
From my experience setups like the elevate will dyno higher since the hood is usually open on a dyno run, when upto highway speed you might lose some power. Though the car will sound nicer and be a bit more responsive on the throttle.
I used to use a C30Crew ECU spacer and a K&N panel filter in the stock airbox and that gave me a good balance. Though a friend of mine had focus RS vents on his C30 with a cone filter and Focus RS intake pipe and that thing was a beast.
nboy7 thats pretty much what i said. Peak dyno power doesnt translate to drivability though...low down and mid range will suffer as theres no air hitting the cone filter until youre at speed. Theres a reason why volvo used a closed air intake, cone filters just increase noise, but performance suffers.
@@lastexile1187 Sorry i couldnt see your whole post earlier.
Towards the end with my C30 i started to try and set it up to get more top end power because i found that compared to all the new AWD hot hatches coming out that i didnt have any hope matching them off the line but often i could reel them in when upto speed. A tuned T5 has so much torque...probably too much, so i switched my tune from elevate to polestar and made changes to my intake (filter + spacer, remove rain guard).
So honestly if the car is going to end up with a K16 later the cone setup isnt actually that bad an idea because if youre doing drags you really want that K16 to sing up top so you can catch your target after the inevitably slow FWD launch youll have. But id still want the RS hood vents or maybe a NACA duct.
nboy7 definitely needs some sort of cold air feed hitting the cone filter, regardless of the turbo used. I think these guys need at least 50 more horsepower over the fk8 civic they want to challenge. I mean they keep talking about how their s60r is an m3 beater but we never saw such a video 😂
All you have to do to make the stock intake come out easy is undo the engine mount under the coolant expansion tank at the front of the engine and jack the engine up a bit.
They don’t call them bricks for nothing!!
damn that twilight car is a pain to work on
lol
@@NeoAndersonn It's really not. These guys are going for drama. The learning curve is strong with this one.
Tu travailles bien ne lâche pas! j'aime beaucoup ton projet c'est très intéressant et j'apprends beaucoup de choses sur cette génération de volvo. j'adore!
Wd40 would have loosened those rubber mounts
Yup, when you get more than elbow deep into the engine bay, you'll find there are a lot of what I like to call "Volvo'isms" that you'll run into. Just weird, out of left field design choices that make working on the car a fucking nightmare. That is also a very odd location for the ECU. Just WTF. In the R's it's on the left in a nice cartridge type holder. I thought that was nice. :/ Glad you got it out though! :D 8:49 - Elevate TCV on the firewall? That intake kit is beautiful! :)
Yes to the TCV! Good spot. Thanks man!
I think Volvo did a pretty good job fitting the T5 into the C30 and C70. If you think about it, it's not a big engine bay and the T5 at 2.5L with turbo piping can make thinks bulky. It's not like the 850 it's more like a T5 jammed into a Civic.
@@willriley1619 Very true. Almost the same engine as the R in that tiny car lol. I want to see it with the same power, it'll be a little monster. :)
youtubasoarus I would relocate the battery to the trunk. More space
@@willriley1619 Yup, that's where the S60's have 'em. I'd recommend that too. :)
I've been working on Volvo for a long time and you definitely need an assortment of extensions, sockets and crows foot wrench sockets help out alot. Torque wrench can be your friend when working on Volvos too.
Also you should relocate the battery to the trunk. I don't think there is a kit out there but it's not that hard. The new found space in engine bay is amazing.
Holy crap ...I've been at it for 3 hours no airbox out yet
I've just replaced the PCV Filter housing on my v50 T5 and following the FCP Euro tutorial on TH-cam had no issues getting the air box out (too five mins) but honestly, it just have to moved a bit to the right to access the bolts and it's not necessary to remove the ECU.
2:00 That bolt is why I am looking on YT right now. Thanks for the video!
a closed plastic intake gets significantly less heat soak than a painted metal pipe with exposed filter in the engine bay
I speak metric and I am pleased, well done.
Man, I'd love it if the Volvo 850 T-5R could be in the mix!
Airintake is a pain 🤣 Removing it makes everythig so much easier. Even oil change is walk in a park after that.
Yeah the air box comes out easier when you remove the engine mount and raise the engine a bit , and the ecm is located there so it pulls heat from the ecm that’s why it has a seal . 👌🏾
No need to remove the ECU. Just finished replacing the starter and thermostat. Pain in the ass taking/replacing the airbox. Did it without breaking anything. I used a rope around the middle lower slide in circular tab to pull it over the thermostat housing while sliding the airbox down to the left. I've got three torx screws leftover...it was so aggravating, I forgot where they went. 🤔
Well done sir. 👍👍
I have installed that same intake on my 2005 Volvo v50 t5 and yes it was a real pain in the ass to remove that air box.
it was a hell lot easier than replacing the head gasket though which I did about 2 months ago.
Loosen the passenger side motor mount (2 bolts) then jack the engine up about one half inch and you're good to go. Did you mention how you have to separate the ECU from the airbox (hopefully before you throw it across the shop) and then relocate and secure the ECU to another location close by because of the shortness of it's wiring harness.
I was lucky with my air box the rubber mounts had already got to old to hold it lol
Lol, the woes of bolt-on... I never did relocate the vacuum assembly for the KN system... rubbed into the hood liner for 10 years... never a problem. FMIC is not going to be easier. Get a dental tool/hooked prod set (unsharpened!) and some silicone spray/dielectric grease, got to get under those boot surfaces gently! Treadmill lube is the lightest good silicone I've found, but that was a long time ago... really regretting selling the C30 but I had one that kept having water intrusion issues... once you pull the interior out once or twice it's easy to pressure wash everything!
Looking to get a C30 1.6 diesel I feel your frustration…. We that work on cars know what it’s like….. I talk to myself many times while delving below bonnets as we brits call em….I probably should be certified😂😂…. Well done😎💪🏼
I didnt want to raise the engine to get the airbox out so i cut the mountings with yes, a breadknife..... (did not have anything else at the moment) and i cut my hand pretty bad when it slanted xD
Got my Simota in place ofc.. Just a bit of blood in the engine compartment :D
is the audio cutting out right as he says 'the solution is' for anyone else?
This was a absolute nightmare to install (especially with aus/nz/jpn RHD cars, where you need to destroy the plastic firewall cover), but the results are soo worth it.
For those planning to install this, i found it way easier and safer to install the tube to the turbo silicon joiner from the bottom of the car, this way you don't risk scratching a hole through the thin aluminum.
Welcome to the REAL world of automotive repair!
Removing the stock air box it worth it for future maintenance alone, changing items like the PVC system, upper radiator hose and even the oil is 10x easier with the air box out of the car. As for power, you’ll see more or less the same results as with the DP, more torque but not a lot more HP.
I did the same thing with my intake . But I'm saving it for some crazy reason.
So jealous, I'm thinking I might start working on my car.. I want my S60 to tear up the streets.. It's already around 247 hp, "high pressure" turboed from the factory
I felt the same way when I put KN intake on my 07 C70.......I was so mad that I even tried to remove the front bumper and other parts in order to get the air box out. However, I got it out somehow without damaging it or removing any other parts...there's one tricky angle and you have to pull it specifically towards a point, and it will come out in one piece......took me about 15 minutes....in the cold...
That airbox comes out very easy...unplug the ECU..pull the airbox up with force..slide it to your right...and it's out
Finally some wrenching and not just talking :-)
Go to FLEAbay or ??? and get a copy of the VIDA/DICE computer interface box and software. In the software is a Volvo service manual. You will find the factory recommends to break the motor mount loose and tilt the engine backwards. If you knew this you could have pulled the airbox out in minutes instead of hours. - Nice video though, and THANKS FOR POSTING!! Shifting Lanes is quickly becoming my favorite channel.
That intake looks amazing in that engine bay
How the f can you make entire clip 22min and not spend like 10 sec for this epic sound that the engine could make ...... we want it started ! :D
Homie should have disconnected the battery before disconnecting the ecu and that air box can come out with ecu no need to loosen the upper engine mount
Looks nice and shiny, however just a few points to consider. Firstly the MAFS is still the same internal diameter as the original intake piping, so that's somewhat of a bottleneck. As for heat soak affecting the air into the turbo, well it's passing through there very quickly and is then heated by compression of the turbo anyway, and any difference is likely negligible. Then the post turbo air still uses the old "narrow" piping under the engine to get thru to the stock I/C and into the stock intake manifold. But I presume these items will be upgraded. Also if it were my car, bearing in mind testing I read about regarding the temps that ecu heatsink develops, I'd still want airflow over it for the longevity of those components.
Elevate made a video of how to change the air intake and it doesn't look this difficult at all 😂😂😂😂
Of course. They're trying to sell products and dont want ppl to not buy because something looks difficult.
That said some ppl have good luck. I had bad luck. Lol.
I'm thinking about putting a do88 cold air intake on a C70 with the same engine, thanks for the video and the hell I'm going to go through!! At the end of the video sucking air from the top of a hot engine seems like a terrible idea, that is not a cold air intake
Dont get a CAI. Stock box makes more power.
CAI makes fun turbo noises tho
Did you really pull the ECU with the battery connected?
No, it looks that way but the terminal was definitely disconnected.
"Pain in the ass" is the phrase of the day.
So whats the trick on taking it off? I saw the mounts on the back of the box closer to the motor and I have no idea how you can get a tool in there!
They put the ecu there for cooling. Other C30s have it farther back on the drivers side with ducting to it.
Good job man!!
Teasing us with that intake sound.. I know it will sound awesome :)
What about the ECU cooling ? I wish to upgrade my C30 but ECU still remain ?
I had same frustration when i wanted to disassemble housing air filter... I have disassemble all before the car. To change PCV valve and then, housing oil filter.
I have a v40 and I custom fitted an dreamscience cai off a focus st225
Have had any issues with the ECU overheating? I installed this last night, took about 2-1/2 hours. I'd taken out the airbox recently twice so this time took only a few minutes. I was sweating having to deal with the inlet reducer after watching this video but that wasn't too bad, either. But it took about 15 tries getting the intake pipe to slip into the reducer, there's definitely a trick to it. But after taking it for an easy 15-minutes drive for the system to re calibrate, etc., I noticed the ECU was hot to the touch. Didn't occur to me until just then that, hey, maybe the ECU was mounted on the airbox for a reason. Wondering if you had issues and if so how you handled it. I don't want to fry my ECU.
I did the reverse process for my S40 T5 :p Getting the airbox back in was was a major pita...
Yup, feel your pain. Looks like the V50....so Fn tight. 1\4" ratcheting wrench w/ nut drivers like you use with a cordless drill
I have the exact same T5 same color.
Would you happen to know what bolts are needed to attach an under carriage splash under the engine. I'm ordering one, but don't know what bolts or screws it takes. Would you happen to have that information handy?
09:28 Still contemplating killing the guy who designed the air box 😂
True story.
Damn not even a start up to hera em mosses
You made that job more difficult than it is. 😀
Very probable
I don’t know how I did it but I managed to remove that air box from my v50 without even scratching it.
You have to loosen up top engine mount
I noticed the bottom half of the air box had a massive hole in the bottom aka the Swiss cheese mod do you know if this made any difference to power or sound of the turbo
its from him throwing it, wasnt like that before taking it off
I understand it was late but a quick fire up and rev is how the video should've ended. Is the an Instagram post in the works to fulfill this request?
Hey i just bought a 2008 volvo c30 t5, same as your car manual. ive decided from watching your videos to buy the elevate intake system. Before i go ahead and install the kit, how did you extend the vacuum line to fit the intake tubing in?? thanks a lot !
Did you have to remove the motor mount to shift the motor?
Be better with a bigger engine bay, I dunno v70 maybe!! Also be interesting to see a dyno now it’s fitted I’d bet it’s less power when hot from radiator heat soak.
I would just yank that filter cover off to unlock some ponies. Unless it's super inclement weather
I didn't have nearly as much of an issue with the stock airbox, but I had to enlist my lady and her tiny hands to get that f'ing lower clamp on and off for the charge pipe...I bled all over that thing trying to squeeze my arms in that tiny space.
13:29 the solution is…
13:30 sounds goes out for the next 3 minutes.
Good job.
And what about the overheating of ECU? Design-wise is located that air box. The back part of ECU ( cooling aluminium block ) is faced inside the Air box so the sucked air passing that block and cooling it down. Does the heat in engine bay affect the ECU now ?
I live in South Africa, i have relocated my ecu. Here where I live temps have been in the 40*C range and not issue with ECU overheating... Its a myth...
the focus st, that also uses this engine, has its ecu in a plastic box with no air flowing over it so I'm sure this being able to have air pass over it will be fine.
Have had my V50 with relocated ECU for over a year and no issues.
Ford focus have a same engine but i think they have their own ECU. Also ford doesnt have that unusual air "tunel" to battery. But good to hear, that ECU is fine without cooling in Volvo too.
@@MeefMoaf the st yes. The rs, no.
Now I know why mechanic hourly rates are so high, it's a pain in the ass to work on!
I'm about to buy a few parts from Elevate, including this intake. You did move then engine back after getting the pipe in there right? May be a dumb question but I want to know if the engine will have to stay moved foward after that intake goes in.
how long did this take. I was hoping to do this to my c30 someday but I have little background for mechanics.
Lol my Elevate intake and turbo pipe took me and a BMW tech 3 hours to install :(
I had the same problem, not worth it. In retrospect i should have used a Ford RS intake pipe or a K&N typhoon, but with small mods the factory airbox can work extremely well.
Thanks for speaking metric!
Filter is good but now it will suck the hot air from the engine witch will make it worse than it was :D that filter needs to be shielded from the engine in order to take advantage from it :) airboxes from the factory are made for a reason :)
why dont u disconnect the battery before relocate the ecu??
Dope. When does the new badass cast aluminum intake manifold go on? Lol, I kid, I kiddd...
Halfway thru this video, I thought we'd have to put Chad on suicide watch, y'all.
😂😂😂😂😂
Dat horsepower formula tho
When you change the intercooler, will you reverse the flow. That’s supposed to add horsepower. Also wondering if you are going to add a strut brace. It helped the cornering on my 97 850 R.
The old professor
Make a video on how to replace engine motor mounts
Did these wheels have any rubbing issues when you had them?
Sorry to hear it was a pain with the box I managed to do it without to much hassle
RCNITROPRODRIVERS yeah, I don't remember struggling with that part... but mine is a 2012 so maybe it was different after the facelift 🤷🏻♂️
Daniel G it's the exact same for all years of the C30 T5. I didn't have that much trouble with mine either, but I think we're the exception to the rule.
Daniel G for the record it's a s40 t5 2004
But they are exactly the same
Michal Hobson it's funny cause I can remove the custom intake in less than 5 minutes
RCNITROPRODRIVERS right?!?
Hello I was wondering if I’m a c30 t5 if you could just remove the air box and install just a aftermarket intake filter onto the stock intake pipes, and then just get a ecu relocated piece as well? Love the videos.
Probably but it would likely result in less power. Stock airbox is still the best for making power.
Just installed my intake on saturday, but forgot to get a K&N Filter. Same day unfortunately i messed up my alignment by cracking into a pothole :(
Dang that stinks
Jesus, dude I installed a similar K&N kit and it was so much easier, no need to lose the motor mounts or anything, just rip the air box, install the bracket to relocate the ecu and exchange the pipes, way easier than yours
That's a hot air intake. Right behind the radiator and fan. Looks nice but yuk. Intake temps will be crap.
Are you a greenkeeper by any chance seeing all the Toro and kushmans in the background... loving the Volvo content!!!!!
Hi guys been waiting for you guys to get round to the intake. That looked such a crap job to get that old airbox out and turbo intake hose off. My tool kit and patience is not that good was looking to do this on my driveway how long in total did it take? When you moved the ecu was the wiring able to stretch to its new position? Also when you removed it and that clamp broke how easy was to put it back on? In the uk ford focus st uses same engine but the intake system they use house the filter to the right rather than sitting in front of the motor thinking of going for that rather than elevates system. One last thing we need to hear how it sounds inside and outside the car. Cheers guys love your volvo vids👍
It took me about 6ish hours, most of which was spent trying to remove stock components. The ecu is actually closer to the wiring so that wasn't an issue at all. The clamp on the ecu was a bit fiddly to get back on, it didn't break it just poped off which apparently happens on this mod. Ill be trying to get some sound clips, right now the only difference is you can actually hear the turbo now but it isnt loud by any stretch. Thanks for watching.