Hey man. Great to see you cracking on. Personally I prefer the Brooklyn Coachworks aesthetic to the twisted one. That really classic OEM+ vibe is so much nicer than the blacked out windows and fancy wheels one. Suits a Defender so much better. See also going for big lifts and wheels/tyres and odd fitting big wheel arch flares. Just Keep it simple and classy man. Here for your journey whatever you decide mind. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hi Liam. In regards to the rear door I would put a 2002 onwards rear door on with the better rear window and door card. Better looking and much more solid!
I have been following Brooklyn Coachworks for a few years now; their philosophy is exactly the one I follow myself! Low key, classy and original. 'Those who know, know when they see one. As much fun the heavily modified ones probably are... I think BCW hits the nail on the head for defenders.
Completely off-topic, but I hope you guys know how lucky you are to have that collection of vehicles (not to mention the ford tractors!) My dad used to have 6 or 7 landys and all that's left is a half-restored 2A haha. Good luck with the rebuild!! I respect the dedication.
I replicated the Keswick Green 90 on the Brooklyn Coachworks website last year when I gave my 1987 landy a makeover. 100% worth the money. My favourite mod was removing the bulkhead behind the front seats but this may not essential if you have no seating in the rear. Does allow extra legroom in the front though! I also found a headliner with radio holder included, so now my radio is mounted just above eye level. Proper trucker vibes. Good luck with the build!
Keswick Green is a lovely colour (and one I'd consider if I were changing). I think for me personally it would be more practical to keep the bulkhead as is but I understand the appeal of removing it - also I'm not that tall so legroom isn't a concern 😄
Hi Liam, your basically doing all the mods I have started on my 110, the pioneer kit is beyond awesome, go easy on the stainless steel bolts, they react really bad with the alloy, great if you have steel on steel but nightmare if you put alloy in the mix, looking forward to the next video
Liam, make sure you buy galvanised doors, take a bit more in terms of paint prep, but fit and forget item’s particularly if you flood the frames with Lanoguard too.
Im rebuilding my 110 200TDI defender and is good to hear you mention all the brands that i am using on my rebuild (pioneer/LOF etc) . I to am replacing the bulkhead and chassis. During the dismantling of the 110 there was quite a bit of galvanic corrosion around the seat box and chassis mounts so there may be a few things from YRM which you might need but only realise once you break the defender down. I have bought all new air and water pipes as many were perished but like you due to the relatively low mileage of my vehicle only plan a few service of all the running gear. Might also be worth inspecting the front swivels. Due to space limits and storage i only made time to clean and paint the axles but would of preferred to have renovated these first before rebuilding the rolling chassis. Looking forward to seeing the parts mountain!
If you are buying a 5th gear from Ashcroft you should also get stronger axle shafts, a 1.2 ratio transfer case, and ATB diffs for front, rear, and centre. The diffs are perfect for your use case. For the engine I would recommend a VNT turbo and a bigger intercooler.
Some good choices there Liam! The 'Road Comfort' springs would be a good choice being standard height, but might be a bit soft if you decide to fit a winch bumper in the future with the extra weight. A set of +2" dampers coupled with dislocation cones would give excellent off road articulation but without the lift.
And. Heat. Cool to see Allisport matrix avail, did not know. Have a Chinese diesel heater in 110 plumbed to lower dash panel with a booster in line fan. Piping is 50mm. Only one problem....too hot, even on low. But then, don't get your winter!
Seats..yes. you need flat bolsters to base as sliding in and out especially with a suspension lift, is a pain. Use an anderson/forklift connector for battery and custom jump leads.
I'm so excited for you! Good call on not going double din. Maybe consider the Pioneer SPH-10BT (or SPH-20DAB which includes DAB) head unit that I got for my Defender. You can retract the built-in phone cradle (the position is awkward). Then there's an app for your phone which lets it work as the screen. It's not a perfect solution but one thing I really like is that you can use the buttons on the unit to switch apps (to a limited degree). For example one of the buttons opens your maps app which is much safer than fiddling on the touch screen. I was also able to set the display to a similar green to the defender dash lighting and it looks quite smart. I find a lot of these things are really ugly.
regarding shock absorber and steering stabilizer I would consider: Bilstein Offroad Advance-7005 Shock Kit and Bilstein Offroad Advance-7005s Steering Stabilizer
Really excited to see the build when you start it. If you are doing the wiper motor I can recommend the Optimill washer jet upgrade it’s a game changer for clearing the screen. LR parts do a GRP head liner which will not sag. Keep up the great work and awesome content cheers Brian
Best wishes Liam! Can I recommend: Exmoor Trim for quality; AJS 4x4 in Reigate, Surrey, UK for advice… also Britpart Lynx Eye headlamps, Clim Air window top clear shields (no draughts, no fog…)
Good video definitely use yrm for all your fixings and any body or chassis parts the fox suspension good I normally fit terrafima all galv bits for chassis seatbelt mounts turret kit and spring cups etc I use Brit parts as for door hinges optimal are very good and fit with no messing just done full set on 110 but the ex Moore good too a Def upgrade Go for optimal washer jet and motor excellent when off-road and on road I fit a lot of chassis on defenders last year did 15 only fit marsland they the best any questions a be happy to help looking forward to the build
I would consider a raptor dash rather than a mud stuff. There are lots of pre cut options and can change the layout nicely in the future, without having to replace the hole unit
Here in Canada we find Fox 2.0s really don’t last very well at all. Personally I would fit the OME but look at Gwyn Lewis with the top mount conversion so it’s a pin/pin shock, otherwise the eyes break very commonly on the OME rear shocks. Also, would highly recommend Gwyns steering upgrades, the drop arm conversion in combo with some sumo bars and an OME steering damper do an excellent job firming up the steering and adding a great deal of stength!
Sounds like an awesome project. Would be worth looking at going for the 2002 onwards dash much smarter as has the nice centre console and you can add the nice oem looking switches from MUD4x4
Instead of galvanising your L+R side cappings and corner cappings, I'd order new ones from yrm. I sandblasted mine myself, and it took me ages to get the paint on the inside and in the corners away. They need to be 100% stripped from paint and rust for the galv shop to even touch them. It's a time consuming job. Also galvanising them is a bit costly, and they got a bit distorted from the heat. Had to smash them on.😅
I am looking around your shed thinking, perhaps this chap has a bigger budget than my meager pension! But dough is dough. Standard in Denmark is probably ok as there are not so many numb nuts nicking doors etc, and the speeding fines are to European pocket clearing standard!
I have the “Fox” suspension to; and it was very satisfying! But; I don’t know how your annual technical control looks at this. I mean; in Belgium you need official papers of the suspension to pass this control. A raise of 2,5inch with the fox suspension didn’t have that kind of papers. So I needed to go back to the original.
Seats have you thought of rx8 seats you can have heated seats and if you leave the dark bolts in and put wing nuts on frount bolts you can remove base for battery just a thought cheaper
They lasted 3 years, I didnt buy them from alive tuning but they're the same shocks. Front went first then rear were failing as i removed them from my 2008 puma@@TirsbaekTV
Croytec well worth a look for hinges etc. Why not organise a meet and all your UK subscribers could bring some "gifts" with them which might save a bit of money... ;)
ive got the spectre style and big tyres are a total nightmare on the road trust me lol,ive got seats too and the are poop the side bolsters went and i had to replace them but i mounted hinges on the back of the runners so you can tilt them back and have pins at the front for them to fit on to with a clip going through the pin
Build will be great, better to do it once properly and never have to touch it. Also when are we getting a tour of Tirsbæk Gods and all the vehicles on site?
Cant wait to see the outcome . It seems building in reliability is vitally important, Land Rover seem to make cars ever more complicated and ever more unreliable. Have you tried contact lenses ?
Hey man. Great to see you cracking on. Personally I prefer the Brooklyn Coachworks aesthetic to the twisted one. That really classic OEM+ vibe is so much nicer than the blacked out windows and fancy wheels one. Suits a Defender so much better.
See also going for big lifts and wheels/tyres and odd fitting big wheel arch flares. Just Keep it simple and classy man.
Here for your journey whatever you decide mind. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks! I agree, and OEM+ is very much the style I'm going for.
Hi Liam. In regards to the rear door I would put a 2002 onwards rear door on with the better rear window and door card. Better looking and much more solid!
Thanks, I'll look into that. What's the difference with the window?
I’d second that they are much better doors. Window is same but door seal is more modern
@@TirsbaekTV the window is more rounded and is held in with a rubber seal as opposed to the metal strips
Great list there! Good luck with it all. Looking forward to following on.
The Mat system from Exmoor is great! 👍 thanks for the shoutout
I have been following Brooklyn Coachworks for a few years now; their philosophy is exactly the one I follow myself! Low key, classy and original. 'Those who know, know when they see one. As much fun the heavily modified ones probably are... I think BCW hits the nail on the head for defenders.
Agreed! I love their style.
Completely off-topic, but I hope you guys know how lucky you are to have that collection of vehicles (not to mention the ford tractors!) My dad used to have 6 or 7 landys and all that's left is a half-restored 2A haha. Good luck with the rebuild!! I respect the dedication.
Thanks! Knowing that we have these amazing and unique surroundings (both terrain and vehicles) was one of the main reasons we started the channel 😄
I replicated the Keswick Green 90 on the Brooklyn Coachworks website last year when I gave my 1987 landy a makeover. 100% worth the money. My favourite mod was removing the bulkhead behind the front seats but this may not essential if you have no seating in the rear. Does allow extra legroom in the front though! I also found a headliner with radio holder included, so now my radio is mounted just above eye level. Proper trucker vibes. Good luck with the build!
Keswick Green is a lovely colour (and one I'd consider if I were changing). I think for me personally it would be more practical to keep the bulkhead as is but I understand the appeal of removing it - also I'm not that tall so legroom isn't a concern 😄
Hi Liam, your basically doing all the mods I have started on my 110, the pioneer kit is beyond awesome, go easy on the stainless steel bolts, they react really bad with the alloy, great if you have steel on steel but nightmare if you put alloy in the mix, looking forward to the next video
Wild. Haven't seen you guys in ages. This is going to be a great ride.
Looking forward to watching this build guys!
Liam, make sure you buy galvanised doors, take a bit more in terms of paint prep, but fit and forget item’s particularly if you flood the frames with Lanoguard too.
Will definitely be getting galvanised doors :)
Im rebuilding my 110 200TDI defender and is good to hear you mention all the brands that i am using on my rebuild (pioneer/LOF etc) . I to am replacing the bulkhead and chassis. During the dismantling of the 110 there was quite a bit of galvanic corrosion around the seat box and chassis mounts so there may be a few things from YRM which you might need but only realise once you break the defender down. I have bought all new air and water pipes as many were perished but like you due to the relatively low mileage of my vehicle only plan a few service of all the running gear. Might also be worth inspecting the front swivels. Due to space limits and storage i only made time to clean and paint the axles but would of preferred to have renovated these first before rebuilding the rolling chassis. Looking forward to seeing the parts mountain!
If you are buying a 5th gear from Ashcroft you should also get stronger axle shafts, a 1.2 ratio transfer case, and ATB diffs for front, rear, and centre. The diffs are perfect for your use case. For the engine I would recommend a VNT turbo and a bigger intercooler.
Some good choices there Liam! The 'Road Comfort' springs would be a good choice being standard height, but might be a bit soft if you decide to fit a winch bumper in the future with the extra weight. A set of +2" dampers coupled with dislocation cones would give excellent off road articulation but without the lift.
And. Heat. Cool to see Allisport matrix avail, did not know. Have a Chinese diesel heater in 110 plumbed to lower dash panel with a booster in line fan. Piping is 50mm. Only one problem....too hot, even on low. But then, don't get your winter!
Good luck looking forward to seeing the build
good to see your committment to the project plenty parts in uk alot of us keeping original look lately all the best
Seats..yes. you need flat bolsters to base as sliding in and out especially with a suspension lift, is a pain. Use an anderson/forklift connector for battery and custom jump leads.
Hi Liam while putting heated screen wiring in, you may as well fit heated door mirrors as very little additional work for a great benefit.
Thanks, I'm also considering that. Forgot to mention it in the video.
I'm so excited for you! Good call on not going double din. Maybe consider the Pioneer SPH-10BT (or SPH-20DAB which includes DAB) head unit that I got for my Defender. You can retract the built-in phone cradle (the position is awkward). Then there's an app for your phone which lets it work as the screen. It's not a perfect solution but one thing I really like is that you can use the buttons on the unit to switch apps (to a limited degree). For example one of the buttons opens your maps app which is much safer than fiddling on the touch screen. I was also able to set the display to a similar green to the defender dash lighting and it looks quite smart. I find a lot of these things are really ugly.
Best of luck with the rebuild Liam and looking forward to seeing the result lane of you hard work 👍
Thanks Simon!
regarding shock absorber and steering stabilizer I would consider: Bilstein Offroad Advance-7005 Shock Kit and Bilstein Offroad Advance-7005s Steering Stabilizer
Really excited to see the build when you start it. If you are doing the wiper motor I can recommend the Optimill washer jet upgrade it’s a game changer for clearing the screen. LR parts do a GRP head liner which will not sag. Keep up the great work and awesome content cheers Brian
Thanks! Already installed the Optimill washer jet on the front a few years ago and I love it 😊
Hey for the door hinges you could consider offroad monky i think they are making also very high quality parts. Have a great day 🙂
Best wishes Liam! Can I recommend: Exmoor Trim for quality; AJS 4x4 in Reigate, Surrey, UK for advice… also Britpart Lynx Eye headlamps, Clim Air window top clear shields (no draughts, no fog…)
Thanks!
Hey Liam You can sell your seats and it will still be a beautiful Defender like my father's Defender 90 TD5, I am still so happy that he drives it
Good video definitely use yrm for all your fixings and any body or chassis parts the fox suspension good I normally fit terrafima all galv bits for chassis seatbelt mounts turret kit and spring cups etc I use Brit parts as for door hinges optimal are very good and fit with no messing just done full set on 110 but the ex Moore good too a Def upgrade Go for optimal washer jet and motor excellent when off-road and on road I fit a lot of chassis on defenders last year did 15 only fit marsland they the best any questions a be happy to help looking forward to the build
I would consider a raptor dash rather than a mud stuff. There are lots of pre cut options and can change the layout nicely in the future, without having to replace the hole unit
Here in Canada we find Fox 2.0s really don’t last very well at all. Personally I would fit the OME but look at Gwyn Lewis with the top mount conversion so it’s a pin/pin shock, otherwise the eyes break very commonly on the OME rear shocks. Also, would highly recommend Gwyns steering upgrades, the drop arm conversion in combo with some sumo bars and an OME steering damper do an excellent job firming up the steering and adding a great deal of stength!
Forgot to mention it in the video, but we already fitted the full Gwyn Lewis steering kit to this Defender so I'll certainly be re-using all of that.
I live in Luxembourg and get my stuff from Paddocks in the UK, all their prices will include Danish duty, quick and easy delivery.
I'll definitely be using Paddocks for a lot of parts :)
Sounds like an awesome project. Would be worth looking at going for the 2002 onwards dash much smarter as has the nice centre console and you can add the nice oem looking switches from MUD4x4
I like the look of the door cards from powerful uk, good looking and they use rivnuts so easy to remove and refit if necessary. Pricey though.
I'll take a look, thanks!
Instead of galvanising your L+R side cappings and corner cappings, I'd order new ones from yrm. I sandblasted mine myself, and it took me ages to get the paint on the inside and in the corners away. They need to be 100% stripped from paint and rust for the galv shop to even touch them. It's a time consuming job. Also galvanising them is a bit costly, and they got a bit distorted from the heat. Had to smash them on.😅
Thanks, I think new ones is likely the way I'll go.
Hey Liam, replacing the front doors have a look for puma ones as there stronger
Looks like the Tirsbaek estate has been a longtime serial buyer of Land- and Rangerovers
I am looking around your shed thinking, perhaps this chap has a bigger budget than my meager pension! But dough is dough. Standard in Denmark is probably ok as there are not so many numb nuts nicking doors etc, and the speeding fines are to European pocket clearing standard!
Have sent you an email for some potential help for the heater and to work in tandem with the swanky Alisport matrix. 😊
I have the “Fox” suspension to; and it was very satisfying! But; I don’t know how your annual technical control looks at this. I mean; in Belgium you need official papers of the suspension to pass this control. A raise of 2,5inch with the fox suspension didn’t have that kind of papers. So I needed to go back to the original.
I'm not planning to lift it, I will run at standard height so I think it will be ok.
Seats have you thought of rx8 seats you can have heated seats and if you leave the dark bolts in and put wing nuts on frount bolts you can remove base for battery just a thought cheaper
Great video. My Fox shocks failed so I’m back with OME. You may read on the forums the fox shocks aren’t great in salty environments 👌
Interesting! How long did they last and what failed exactly?
They lasted 3 years, I didnt buy them from alive tuning but they're the same shocks. Front went first then rear were failing as i removed them from my 2008 puma@@TirsbaekTV
Croytec well worth a look for hinges etc.
Why not organise a meet and all your UK subscribers could bring some "gifts" with them which might save a bit of money... ;)
Off Road Monkey Hinges would be the better choice imo. Also have a look at the new Bilsteins from Alive, thats what im going for over the Fox.
ive got the spectre style and big tyres are a total nightmare on the road trust me lol,ive got seats too and the are poop the side bolsters went and i had to replace them but i mounted hinges on the back of the runners so you can tilt them back and have pins at the front for them to fit on to with a clip going through the pin
😂 That's why you need multiple Land Rovers for every occasion
@@TirsbaekTV that's why I actually do have multiple landys just not as many as you guys I e only got 5 lol
hinges powerfuluk or optimill is a good choice
Have a look at paddock spares and accessories in uk for parts
Will definitely be using Paddocks for many parts :)
That will be a ginourmous budget ! Any estimate?
It would be interesting to know but I understand if he doesn't want to say.
I don't have a fixed budget in mind, however I will do a full breakdown of the cost once the build is finished.
Build will be great, better to do it once properly and never have to touch it.
Also when are we getting a tour of Tirsbæk Gods and all the vehicles on site?
Hej, just curious which chassis / bulkhead you decided to order ?
Richards via 4wd.nu
@@TirsbaekTVhave you had a second thought about Maer chassis and bulkhead?
Esp stainless steel bulkhead ?
Who did those mud guards?
The mud flaps are from Tuff Rok, who are no longer in business.
Wow, what is your overall budget?
Whatever it takes!
I don’t know if it was just me but when I took my mud guards off to do my chassis, the cross member was still full of mud anyway
I guess you can never eliminate 100% of it, but I'm sure they help.
@@TirsbaekTV o I think they are a great product. I would just leave them off the crossmember and use a power hose.
Cant wait to see the outcome . It seems building in reliability is vitally important, Land Rover seem to make cars ever more complicated and ever more unreliable. Have you tried contact lenses ?
Dont just do the wiper motor. get new gearboxes and rack cable too.
Add electric windows . I wouldnt give mine up