My forester is like that. I was gutted to find so much rust. Its in the garage but i doubt ill ever get it done.. haven't looked at it or started it for over twelve months. 😢
I'm in Wales in the UK. I've just walked back into the house after finding the rear left tower in my 98 SF Forester horrendously rusted through. Thanks for inspiring me to repair it. I love that car too much to let it die.
Y'all do amazing work! My chassis/tower rotted pretty bad, and I know my mechanic was just being ethical when he told me my 2000 forester is destined for the junk yard, but I really wish there was a subie sanctuary in Iowa.
Ya they can get pretty bad, this car was definitely one of those cases. Otherwise rest of the car decent enough that these were at least worth doing. Rust sucks… and they dont make the new subarus like the old ones.
All Subaru Foresters in the SG and SF series rust in this area. I have specialized in these cars. The only option is to rebuild them by hand, as there are no original parts. I have built a welding jig for the shock absorber plate, which allows me to remove the rust completely. Right down to the healthy sheet metal and then I rebuild the wheel arch. Since I am retired, I take my time and need about 2 days for one side. Once the rust is removed, the damage doesn't look so bad.
I have a 2005 Saab 92x that is at 198,000 miles and I have a feeling my towers will rust through to failure in about 25-50k miles. If I had the skills you have I'd do this work, but it's not worth it to me to pay someone else to do it. It was fun watching you do this great repair!
Thanks buddy, and you are correct in the worth it or not. This is a massive job and typically can replace the car for this kind of effort. I did my own bugeye wagon a few years back, would same structure as your 92x, It was a mission and no way id have been able to afford to have someone do it without doing it myself. Which even still is a lot in special tools and time. Hope you make out alright in the next car venture
Thanks brother! Me personally, when welding above my head Ill wear a glove on trigger hand (right) otherwise when welding in front or downward I often skip gloves for sake of precision. Yes, it can get a little spicy. Maybe i should shop for thinner gloves that feel better.
Glad youve saved another XT ive got a Red xt here in Scotland same story but it was £1750 with a years ticket cant complain its a manual most are automatic had too buy it from England as no manuals in Scotland
What kind of metal did you guys use? The thickness? Type? Where did you guys get it from? And how did you guys shape it to match the shock tower look? I’m looking to tackle my strut towers on my sf forester, and this info would be helpful.
@@jacobmercado5075 hey buddy! You can use 18g sheet metal, we just get it our local autoparts supplier. You would shape it with a hammer and big dolly or metal brake
@@spotthedogg this would be stronger then original, original was a perforated 2 layers of 22g, this is 18g . The subie savers towers would be ideal for sake of simplicity, i was unaware they were actually available on the market now. Either or, if you have large rust holes in the towers, then anything made of metal is going to be an improvement.
@@TheSubieSanctuary that’s 100% true, the SS towers are expensive at $799USD each but so is 50 hours plus materials. ✌🏻 As always; I love your work and projects!
My forester is like that. I was gutted to find so much rust.
Its in the garage but i doubt ill ever get it done.. haven't looked at it or started it for over twelve months. 😢
I'm in Wales in the UK. I've just walked back into the house after finding the rear left tower in my 98 SF Forester horrendously rusted through. Thanks for inspiring me to repair it. I love that car too much to let it die.
@@davidwilliams706 thats awesome, the classics are so worth fixing up.
Since its a spot thats unseen, doesnt need to be pretty. Just sturdy 🙏
Y'all do amazing work! My chassis/tower rotted pretty bad, and I know my mechanic was just being ethical when he told me my 2000 forester is destined for the junk yard, but I really wish there was a subie sanctuary in Iowa.
Ya they can get pretty bad, this car was definitely one of those cases. Otherwise rest of the car decent enough that these were at least worth doing. Rust sucks… and they dont make the new subarus like the old ones.
All Subaru Foresters in the SG and SF series rust in this area. I have specialized in these cars. The only option is to rebuild them by hand, as there are no original parts. I have built a welding jig for the shock absorber plate, which allows me to remove the rust completely. Right down to the healthy sheet metal and then I rebuild the wheel arch. Since I am retired, I take my time and need about 2 days for one side. Once the rust is removed, the damage doesn't look so bad.
Where do you live?? 😏
@@spotthedogg In Good Old Germany, Westerwald
I have a 2005 Saab 92x that is at 198,000 miles and I have a feeling my towers will rust through to failure in about 25-50k miles. If I had the skills you have I'd do this work, but it's not worth it to me to pay someone else to do it. It was fun watching you do this great repair!
Thanks buddy, and you are correct in the worth it or not. This is a massive job and typically can replace the car for this kind of effort.
I did my own bugeye wagon a few years back, would same structure as your 92x,
It was a mission and no way id have been able to afford to have someone do it without doing it myself. Which even still is a lot in special tools and time. Hope you make out alright in the next car venture
beautiful work and music
Amazing work. Just wondering why you guys don't use gloves when welding lol. That can be a little dangerous
Thanks brother! Me personally, when welding above my head Ill wear a glove on trigger hand (right) otherwise when welding in front or downward I often skip gloves for sake of precision. Yes, it can get a little spicy.
Maybe i should shop for thinner gloves that feel better.
Glad youve saved another XT ive got a Red xt here in Scotland same story but it was £1750 with a years ticket cant complain its a manual most are automatic had too buy it from England as no manuals in Scotland
Thanks! The manual ones are also very rare here.
What kind of metal did you guys use? The thickness? Type? Where did you guys get it from? And how did you guys shape it to match the shock tower look? I’m looking to tackle my strut towers on my sf forester, and this info would be helpful.
@@jacobmercado5075 hey buddy! You can use 18g sheet metal, we just get it our local autoparts supplier. You would shape it with a hammer and big dolly or metal brake
@@TheSubieSanctuarythanks!!
Nice work!
Yeh, its been saved
Is this only single layer? I’m curious if that’s structurally adequate…
Would using the Subie Savers towers be less man hours and more strong?
@@spotthedogg this would be stronger then original, original was a perforated 2 layers of 22g, this is 18g .
The subie savers towers would be ideal for sake of simplicity, i was unaware they were actually available on the market now.
Either or, if you have large rust holes in the towers, then anything made of metal is going to be an improvement.
@@TheSubieSanctuary that’s 100% true, the SS towers are expensive at $799USD each but so is 50 hours plus materials. ✌🏻
As always; I love your work and projects!
Subie Sanctuary’s very own Subie Savers.
Does it reeeeally need an alignment after this, or are you just trying to upsell here?🤨
Full send
Ouch