@@DreamWRLD22 That might be true, but LS or LS?? I’ve never talked bad about a Hemi!! But they use the front suspension off a shopping cart!! Always in the shadow of the Cummings!! But no matter the brand if you take good care and change all the fluids and keep up on repairs they are all good! But stay safe!!
Blew a head gasket in my 3rd year @36k miles. No mods other than a catch can. My first and probably last FCA product. Loved the car with a passion but I babied the car and it still failed me. On the other hand my dad has an 06’ 300 with the infamous 2.7 liter that he bought new and it’s still running 15 years later. I guess I was just unlucky with my 392. :,(
The modest level of intelligence at which this video is delivered sends a message to old-time car guys from the 60s-70s. Too many kids today have not the mind or practical capacity for messing with 'fast' cars and engines; they just know how to throw a ton of money at a vehicle, and then get in and step on the ego pedal.
You sir are 100% wrong I’m only 21 I’ve owned a Dodge Charger R/T, Nissan GT-R, and now a 2021 Scatpack never use eco mode 😂 I’ve also sat and test driven Mclaren specifically the 570s spider. Never have a accident or even a ticket going well over speed limits. But hey you think you buddy. Anytime now I’ll have a hellcat
These days what it takes to increase power in a stock vehicle is a lot different. Now you can do a tuner kit, maybe an intake manifold, and then things get very difficult and very expensive, very quickly. When I was a kid long ago my brother's friends would bring a brand new car home from the dealer and the next day they had the engine apart to change the cam and intake manifold and put on headers. You could tear apart the engine easily, everything was accessible and very straightforward. Now you can't begin to mess with stuff on that basis without it costing a fortune and possibly messing something up.
What a stupid take. All those hot rod shitboxes that your generation built arent around because they fell apart pumping out 300hp from a 455 big block.
@@abecx You're showing your ignorance there son. In the mid '70's, yes pollution equipment choked the heck out of the engines offered by the Big 3 but 1964 to 1971 was a wonderful era. 271 HP out of a 289, 370 HP out of a 350, 425 HP out of a 428, and don't get me started on the incredible family of 327s that in the L84 put out an amazing 375 HP! The 426 Hemi was sold as rated at 425 HP but in reality when dynoed was putting out 490 HP. So, I'll tell you what, read a few books before you come back on here running your noise-hole.
The MDS lifters are your main concern. Some dude shortened a set of stock rings, removed the MDS lifters and has a reliable boosted 5.7 he beats on constantly at the dragstrip. The last thing you want to do is keep those MDS lifters! Ignore the envious hatred of the Chevy guys lol. All the Hemi people I know have reliable cars without MDS lifters; especially the manual cars that don't even have MDS lifters...
The 392 uses 0-40 oil not 5-20. The pistons and rods are not weak. They just aren't made for a supercharger. If you want a blower buy a hellcat. If you drive the car and don't let it idle for long periods of time you shouldn't have a problem with the cam and lifters. I've had 3 of these and they probably the best cars I've ever owned. The only problem I've ever had was on one car the screen on the radio de-laminated. .
@@ThoughtMachine1 true, he’s just naming the issues that these motors are known to have. Not all of them have these issues at the same time. Ik ppl with over 100k miles on them without any major problems. Personally have over 40k miles with the only problem being only a hole in the radiator lol.
@@Disorderinthacourt yea there are still a ton of ppl who don’t wanna bother with modifying and it’s perfect for that. Maybe adding a catch can would help it but I still know ppl who don’t have them and are fine.
You can mess with them, just don't boost it over 7-8 lbs without upgrading the internals. And make sure your tuner is experienced, and don't rag on it all day every day.
@@dieseljunker9234 these people who burn out their cars think it’s normal to do doughnuts everyday, burnouts everyday and they wonder why the rear diff is fucked, trans is fucked and motor is burned out at 30k miles.
@@Theycallmekenney That's true, and from experience it takes discipline to keep your foot out of it lol. Trick is just drive it easy, be conscious of what repairs cost compared to your wallet, but don't forget why you bought it. Once in a while find an empty road and drive it like you stole it, or trade it back in for a honda.
@@dieseljunker9234 exactly!! That’s how I treat mine it’s my daily and when it’s time to rip it I rip it on the backroads and on the highway but I’m not looking to just trash it by doing doughnuts and burnouts every chance I get who am I trying to prove something to?
Good info. Thanks. I have a 2018 SRT 392. One model weakness others have noted with these engines is the water pump. Its front bearing went out for me at about 42,000 miles. The car was still within the powertrain warranty so the dealer replaced the pump. Note: If you have this kind of work done at a dealership, be sure to check the fastener torques with your own torque wrench when you get home (cool engine). The dealer guys are prone to ignore this important step. Re: the lifters (and the entire engine) - I would strongly suggest use of Amsoil Signature Series 0W-40. I realize it is more costly. But this is a full synthetic oil with demonstrated far better wear protection than most other synthetics. You can do your own online study on this. Also keep in mind that cold oil lubricates less effectively than warm oil. So when setting out with a cold engine, I suggest selecting 'Sport' mode. This deactivates MDS and keeps the gearbox in lower gears at around-town speeds. The engine running faster provides better oil pressure and flow during that cold oil period. Once oil temp warms to about 150 degrees I will deselect 'Sport' mode unless I am still chugging around town at low speeds. Last, try to avoid the "impress your friends" engine start accompanied with goosing the throttle. Sounds nice, but engine starts are always low oil flow moments, and that's not the best time to rev the engine. You are shortening engine life with this little bad habit.
i change my oil on my scat pack every 2000 miles in hopes of never experiencing that cam/lifter failure issue. once the car is paid off, i plan to do an "MDS Delete" with brand new lifters. I hear that this issue affects the MDS engines more often than the manual trans cars. Not sure how reliable that info is, but I feel that it's a good enough excuse to also throw in a custom cam & tune. :)
Removing MDS solenoids and lifters to allow full flow is the solution. MDS lifters only get oil when MDS is on. So if you remove the solenoid it allows the oil in to activate the mechanism in the lifter so this is why you want to remove them and replace with regular lifters otherwise MDS will always be on if you only delete the solenoids. This is why high idling cars have the issue way more than anything else because MDS doesn't turn when idling therefore starving lifters surfaces of oil. Very simple concept
85,000+ miles on my 2015 SRT 392 and the only engine issue I have had was a leaking intake manifold gasket. The engine runs as strong today as it did the day I bought the car back in 2016.
There was an internal engineering memo issued by Chrysler in 2015 that narrowed the lifter issue to an "anomaly within the needle bearing hardening process that was not recognized during production". Chrysler updated the specs in 2016 and then selected a different manufacturer for the lifters for the 2018 model year.
You would think tappets with roller bearings reliability would increase over flat tappets but when inferior metals are used with minimal case hardening applied, well this is what you'll see 🤷♂️
@@benkrom2737 Ford had this with the 5.4L 3V. Probably the same supplier. If there is any noise they say to replace all rockers (different setup but same idea). Not very common but it happens. That Ford engine can have oiling issues though.
@@BlackTorrent Not really man. A lot of muscle-car guys love our N/A power and sound. The unique advantage of the Hemi are the heads and their massive flow from the factory. We're talking $5k for aluminum racing heads for an LS just to get close to a factory Eagle head. That's excluding the massive camshaft an LS will have to run to support the flow as well as the pistons and rods to handle high RPM. All the Hemi guy has to do is cam, lifters, valve springs, and change pistons and rods. You don't have to do a stroker with a forged crank. With very very light porting there is no LS/LT head that can match a factory Eagle head let alone an Apache. The main problem is cost for parts due to less demand than a Chevy or Ford. That's why it's so expensive.
I have a 75th Anniversary 2021 RAM 2500 Power Wagon with the 6.4L Hemi. At about 20,000 miles, I started to notice an occasional "sewing machine" ticking when first started. At just over 21,000 miles, it became louder and more persistent, then threw a code and the check engine light came on. I took it to the local CDJR dealer and they determined that a valve had stuck and bent a pushrod. In accordance with RAM guidance, they checked for metal in the oil filter and found none, so they did the repairs (supposedly). Had they found metal, it would have necessitated replacement of the engine. The loud noise has not returned, but the sewing machine ticking is still there when it's started cold.
None of the issues you report have spooked me about my 2019 Challenger Scat Pack. I love the power as-is & have no intention of supercharging it. If I wanted a blown engine, I’d have gotten a Hellcat. (Besides, 100K miles? How many owners will see that?) I change my oil frequently, so I have little concern w/the lifter issues. Just my opinions & thoughts.
I just sold my 05 5.7 Magnum with around 200k I abused that engine did oil changes around 10,000miles, floored it a lot, idling a lot, never experienced the hemi tick.
@@curtisnoble. exactly. As Long as you change your oil regularly and don’t idle your car for more than 5 min you are good. If you are idling let’s say in a drive thru or are waiting on someone occasionally rev the engine to 2,000 rpm so it can splash oil everywhere and keep everything lubricated. This is why you saw a lot of police chargers for sale. But since the revision you don’t see a lot of the new police chargers. Not only did they revise the lifters they also revised the camshaft which now makes the lobes higher. So Do research and you can reference everything I’m saying simply by going to a Chrysler website and check all the revisions by part number. Never buy any lifters from a parts store as they are using the old design! I learned the hard way. Always order directly from Chrysler
@@OddWrld I’ve ran the engine without coolant, overheated dozen times, floored when cold, ran on 7 cylinders once for a few miles, the engine is still strong. I’ve put 100k on the engine until I sold it, I’m sorry for the next owner but that engine shouldn’t have lasted this long.
The 6.4 is very reliable and is designed to be exactly as it is for a reason. From a company standpoint if you want some serious horse power they have got you covered, HELLCAT. The 392 is a fantastic engine and for most 485 hp is fine, considering that the bad boys of years past was 375 - 450 hp.
and that's GROSS pre emissions. even if they weren't choked their SAE net rating would be more in line of 310 - 390 hp. 485 is more than enough for most people.
I wish Dodge would make a 3600 lb car to put these engines in, even as heavy as they are they are fast, but if they lost 7-800 lbs no LS/LT or Coyote could touch them.
@@samholcombe3129 Then you would have another mustang or Camaro. If you have driven these then a Challenger it is literally night and day. Not just ride but interior space. The Challenger cannot be the same weight and keep the ride and size and that us truly what makes it what it is. Yes she is a big girl but that ride is well worth it, at least to me. Apparently to alot of people also, it has kicked the Camaro in sales for a while now and last qtr the mustang to. If you want to carve some corners then the mustang and Camaro are definitely your choice, but for a nice ride with some serious stoplight/ track action then the Challenger/Charger is a very viable option. I personally have made 3 - 600 mile trips in my SRT 392, each way. One 5oo mile in a mustang, do not recommend that especially compared to my Challenger. And with the new wide body the corner times have improved alot. Again, to combat the Lt and coyote we have the Hellcat that runs right along or slightly better.
Sup Marspeed, congrats on 100k! My parents use to have a 392 Durango, but now we have a Hellcat Durango. I think it would be cool if you can do one of those videos where you find how many are made for the Hellcat Durango, and how many Hellcat Durango was made for a color.
Hey thanks bro! Yeah I can try to do that! It’s getting harder to find production numbers but I can do my best, if you have a specific year/color I can try to find it out for you as well
@@MarspeedCars Hey I understand, when we got the Durango Hellcat, doin our application told us some numbers, like with our current Hellcat, black with blue stripes, he guess around high low digits and low double digits for the black & blue.
I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee SRT with avout 90000km on the clock, about a two months ago that loud lifter tick decided to show up. This vehicle has been well cared for and oil has been changed 2 times a year as recommended(under 6000km's every time) with recommended oil. Upon disassembley I found 2 of the non MDS lifters had needle bearing failures and 2 of the MDS lifters had failed by way of the inner body/locking mechanism rotating in the lifter body effectively not allowing them to be ridged when MDS was not active. Luckily I found this before the lifters started eating in to the cam. Cam and lifters were replaced, MDS was deleted. Now the thing runs like a top again. I also happen to have a 2015 Ram 2500 with the 6.4 that was affected by the wrist pin issue. The engine was replaced under warranty and have had no additional issues with that vehicle. All this being said the modern Hemi is an great engine and I'm not looking to replace my vehicles at this point in time.
Wish I would have known these things early on. A failed lifter is what did my motor in, and I was at 117,000 miles. Just bought a new 6.4 engine after my car been sitting for 2 years plus. The failed lifters destroyed my camshaft and initially destroyed my crankshaft as well, along with the main seal, connecting rod bearings and bent some of my push rods. As said on the video, it's very hard to catch the problem early, I experienced the misfiring codes. I thought it was spark plugs and changed that. Code still was there, so I changed coil pack, then fuel injector cause the misfiring was coming up as cyclinder 8 misfire. Even changed my camshaft sensor as well. Still the problem was there. Took it to the dealer, and they couldn't tell without opening the engine up. They want 800.00 just to open up the engine. So once the engine finally blew, I took it to my mechanic who was a mopar tech, he took my engine out, and broke it down what had occurred. Pretty much what the video person was saying. He explained mopar went cheap with another company using cheaper lifters for the 6.4 engine. 6.1 hemi doesn't have this problem like the 6.4. One sure way to know if your having lifter problems is checking your oil for metal flakes in your oil.
I have a 2014 Jeep GC SRT (bought it at 34,300 miles in 2019) and I had cylinder misfire issues around 87,800 miles. I ordered a COMP Cam, stage 2 set along with MDS solenoid delete plugs. Since the engine was cracked open I also replaced the timing chain, a Melling high-volume oil pump, gaskets and bolts. I have driven over 27,000 since the work and haven't had any issues.
Why would you buy a 392 and boost an already great engine anyway? That's dumb. If you want that then buy a Hellcat. The internals of the 392 are more than adequate to withstand the 485hp, just don't get greedy as most people do.🙄
Man I keep hearing about the lifter issues and problems but we have had 4 of the 5.7 and on the 2nd of the 6.4 for our ranch. We have luckily have never experienced ANY problems, with all of them getting 130k-175k before they get traded off and i can promise they all don't get the maint on time.
Thanks for making this! I've been currently shopping, looking at a possible 2500 with a 6.4, and it's good that it's something to be aware of. Sucks that you can't "inspect" this issue more easily so that you can tell whether or not it's good for a while, or if it's starting to show signs that it will fail and cause you bigger headaches. Thank you!
Just go ahead and spend the extra little bit of cash get the Cummins instead of the gasser it’ll save you on fuel if it’s deleted will be way more reliable and will run a million miles
Considering the guy wraps up the video recommending 5w-20 which is wrong for the 2500’s 6.4, i would take this with a grain of salt. How is taking an engine beyond factory specs by modding it a fatal flaw with the engine itself? How prevalent is the bearing issue?
6.4 HEMI 138,000 miles. No issues so far. I Change the oil with the SRT recommended Penzoil and Wix filter every 5,000 miles. I also make sure to romp the gas every once in a while
I have a 2016 392 Scatpack with what I believe is a lifter issue but Chrysler won't do anything unless I pay for the diagnostic. The ticking noise is only heard at low RPM (very noticeable) and disappears as RPM increases and has been this way forever. I always drive in Sport or Track mode so MDS never kicks in, do lots of manual shifting, change my oil using only Pennzoil 0-40 at the recommended time and never sit and idle very long. Currently I have 90,822 miles and keeping my fingers crossed.
I am sorry but you are horribly wrong with your statement. 5W20 should always be used in a 6.4L Hemi Engine. I am a mechanic for a Dodge Dealership I am super knowledgeable on EVERY aspect of this engine. Not to mention qualified to say that you are sadly mistaken.
Fatal flaws: The engine was built really well and has high compression so if you are stupid and add boost to the stock internal engine it will probably fail. If you don’t properly maintain the engine the lifters will fail and wipe out the cam somewhere around 75,000-100,000 miles. If you ignore it long enough you’ll need a new engine. Neither of these are flaws of the engine, they are flaws of the owner of the vehicle.
Well if you use the oil made for the engine Ms12633 approved your lifter should last. The top ring location is the issue with boost. keep it under 7psi an it should be fine
My SRT 392 Challenger does not have the MDS. It is a manual transmission, which doesn't come with MDS. There are thousands of Hemi's that don't have the failure issue with the lifters. As pointed out in the video, it is mostly fleet vehicles with high idle time. Oil pressure and circulation is lower at idle. The MDS system doesn't help either. The 392 lives fine with naturally aspirated mods. Cam, headers, tuning can get you over 600 HP reliably. Don't put boost to an engine that isn't designed for it and it will live. The compression ratio for the 392 is too high for boost.
You say it's difficult to detect the failing lifter bearings. There is an easy way to diagnose this kind of fault early, which is routine practice with aero engines. At each oil change, check the drained oil for metal particles - or better still have a sample analysed. Cut open the old filter and look inside. If there is any sign that the engine is "making metal" you know it's time to act. Another handy trick is to install a magnetic sump plug - that will usually collect steel/iron particles before they get picked up and sent through the filter. Again, if you pull the plug and see that it's loaded, it's time to act. This way you'll probably get to the problem and be able to replace the roller bearings, before the cam gets damaged. Want to go further? Install a chip detector in the sump. Again, this is standard practice in aviation - especially for helicopters.
Thank you so much for you're 6.4 problems . I own a 2014 dodge 2500 with the 6.4 & spun bering . It seems to be a common problem with the 6.4 & now i know why & also know what i have to do . Thank
I have had 2 6.1s (one I put 200K miles on and the other is 150K and still going strong). I had 2 5.7s and both engines had problems with lifters. I have a 6.4 but it has an upgraded rockers, lifters, etc. and is rock solid. It is the best motor. The 6.1 felt more like a race motor, but the 6.4 has so much more low-end power it is no contest.
Is it better to invest and upgrade the 392 parts as you mentioned with better rockers, lifters, etc for better solid performance and decrease chance of failure issues with the motor ?
@masspike_kingcommander9334 that is my belief. I had a brand new engine and still upgraded the lifters and it runs like a beast. I have gapped three different scat packs
Thank you for the video. I have a 2013 challenger srt8. I know one person in my car group who has put a supercharger on their 6.4 challenger. So far it's running good I forget how much boost he's making.
@@myKurisma mine currently has over 105,000 miles on it runs good. Could run better though. I probably need to get it tuned and replace spark plugs and coils. Maybe get a larger throttle body. Congrats on the srt 300. They look great. That's gotta be a fun sedan. Looks luxurious too
What's funny about all automobile industries is there are certain years where they make a very reliable engine, parts etc. Then in the second year they make changes and most of the parts in the cars are crap like years before so they don't last. They want parts to fail by or alittle after the warranties People we're getting played
You're assessment is bogus. The 392 is one of the most reliable displacement ever created. As for the performance IT'S A MOPAR! These engines are already at the top end of It's performance limits from the factory. This has been the case from the beginning of Chrysler. Anyone who knows MOPAR history knows that if you want to increase your HP and torque bands then you basically need to do an entire rebuild. I rebuilt my 392 to a 426. Everything has been changed and I mean everything in the drive train from engine to differential. My SRT Challenger is a 2012 six speed and even though it's extremely powerful only a fool would treat it like a dragpac every second it's being driven. Everything has it's limitations. Number one reason for valve failure especially in Iron block engines is people who doesn't allow cool down time prior to shutdown. Heat spike occurs when the engine is hot and coolant needs to flow through the system to drop the temperature to a safe level to prevent valve collapse. I'm beyond over hearing the absolute absurdity.
LS factory stock engine better choice for daily driver. Lower maintenance. Just be fore warned about wobbling harmonic balancer and if that engine is equipped with AFS system.
I heard something intriguing about the mds and how it can actually help lube the roller portion better. Either way I have a tick from hell and a slight shudder while at idle. Hot or cold it does it. Sooooo a nice new set of non mds lifters and a sweet lopey cam are around the corner I guess🤷🏻♂️ 2014 JGC
My 2019 Ram has this problem. After spending 8k in repair the engine totally failed again after about 200 miles of driving. This will be my last Chrysler product ever. I have joined the class action lawsuit against Chrysler for this engine that is designed to fail.
I work at a Chrysler dealer. A few years back there was a memo that if you are running a 5.7 or 6.4 in you Challenger or Charger and using it for any type of severe service application it was recommended to use SAE 5 W 40 full synthetic instead of 5 W 20 or 0 W 40. I also use Lucas ZDDP additive to help with the cam and lifters. Increased ZDDP can't hurt as you need ZDDP to help lubricate ferrous metals under heavy pressure. This significantly helped reduce the slight tick that Hemi engines have. I also disabled the MDS. Plate C
I bought my Scat Pack specifically because I wanted an N/A car (got a Terminator for the boost 😋). IMO its the most balanced V8 Chrysler produces and its not exactly a surprise that higher compression isn’t typically as good for boost as lower is, despite internals.
Love my 2012 392 challenger every 3,000 miles she gets fully synthetic, have a tuner, cat back slp loudmouth resonater no mufflers k&n cold air thats that..love it
6.1 is king well until we see your video about them. But seriously I haven't heard anything bad about the 6.1 at all. Other then people who abuse them and cheap out on maintenance or proper oil for the motor. Which I never understood why some people buy a performance car to cheap out on service?
Agreed 100%... These "fatal flaw" conversations, as the years pass, will give them a bad rep, and only experienced people and Mythbusters will be able to fix it. Honestly this all sounds just like the consensus abour the old Dodge Stealths and 3000GTs...too complicated, too fragile, too much maintenance, not reliable, etc, which is all garbage if the prescribed maintenance was followed. How someone would buy the equivalent of a (now) $50-60k sports car, and then not do the maintenance, and then bitch when it breaks, is beyond me...!!!
@@MrCSRT8 ain't that the truth brother. Only loved the 6.1 as the 300c we got in Australia first gen look is just pure awesome wish we got the chargers to but happy to have a modern mopar with a serious hemi in it
392 with silly variable cam notwithstanding - I'm jealous of you guys down under getting several more model years of 300 SRT - the latest ones with the 8-speed - denied us in North America (FU FCA!). But my '06 300 6.1 with cam, heads, ported manifold, polished exhaust ports, stock exhaust, and stock 5-speed makes 525hp (390 kW) and 492 ft/lbs at the crank and puts down 450hp/426ft-lbs to the wheels.
As long as you change your oil regularly and don’t idle your car for more than 5 min you are good. If you are idling let’s say in a drive thru or are waiting on someone occasionally rev the engine to 2,000 rpm so it can splash oil everywhere and keep everything lubricated. This is why you saw a lot of police chargers for sale. But since the lifter revision in 2015 you don’t see a lot of the new police chargers. Not only did they revise the lifters they also revised the camshaft which now makes the lobes higher. So Do research and you can reference everything I’m saying simply by going to a Chrysler website and check all the revisions by part number. Never buy any lifters from a parts store as they are using the old design! I learned the hard way. Always order directly from Chrysler
Scary stuff. Whenever mine sits for a while I used the built in coil kill feature to spin the motor to lube it before starting my 2015 Challenger SRT 392. You depress the gas pedal fully and hit the start button.
The camshaft doesn't get bathed in oil ( like it should) because the cam bore is too high in the block. Set any modern block next to and old school block. So at idle the lifters don't get lubed properly.
Lifters are definitely a true issue on the 6.4 hemi. Had to get mine replaced with camshaft and the vehicle is completely stock with 53k miles. The notorious Hemi Lifter Tick ! It happens because of lack of lubrication. Crank is too far from the camshaft, drive about 2k RPM!
I bought my 392 knowing there wasn’t much I could do to it without spending enough that it would be like buying the Hellcat. Good to know about the possible lifters problem.
Would it be safe to say that my M6 392 will be good since I usually shift around 3k-4k rpm when cruising around town, and is kept stock? I'm at 40k miles right now and have never had an issue at this point.
LS Corvette engines have harmonic balancer wobble/failures. All of these performance cars have weaknesses and cost more to repair. If you want super reliability, low maintenance, low cost get a Toyota Corolla SE HATCHBACK with 6 spd. manual transmission. Don't get CVT TRANSMISSION.
I put over 160k miles in my Trackhawk, over 120k miles in my SRT 392 Challenger, never had any issue with either of them aside from a minor electrical issue with the challenger. I
My 2012 300 SRT had a lifter issue that damaged the cam. It only has 39k miles on it one of the lifters failed and wore down the cam and it wasn't one of the MDS lifters.
@@masspike_kingcommander9334 Yes, I heard the ticking noise after the car warmed up. I just finished getting the engine rebuild, and it cost around $6,000.
So keep it factory stock for less problems. Don't do any mods. But even then you will have problems down the road with the needle pins at higher mileage. Change oil frequently based on idle time = HIGH MAINTENANCE. This is the type of vehicle to keep for a short term or lease it then turn it in before problems happen.🤯😵💫🙈🙀
Soo glad I purchased the 6 speed manual (no MDS). 2016 Challenger Skat Pack, shaker, she gets babied with 21,000 miles on her. Have had no problems and don't expect I will. Great, informative video!
Had a 2014 Ram 6.4 2500 with 30,000 miles had wrist pin noise at cold start up. I traded it in for a 2017 Ram 6.4 2500 at 35,000 miles had lifter issues. I traded it for a 2021 Tundra crew max 5.7 and love the truck. Done with the 6.4s
I have been looking for a Chrysler 300 srt8 with the 6.4. I have done a decent amount of research and a flaw that he didn’t mention was that the cylinder deactivation feature, at least on the 300 that is, (I’m not sure what other versions have deactivation) they cause problems. I’m not sure how but my guess is that the unused cylinders are running dry.
I have an 18 SRT392. I had a broken valve spring at 30,000 miles, that required the dealer to tear the top end off and replace a bunch of crap under warranty thank God. I don’t beat on the car and it’s not modded. I’m wondering if that’s also a fatal flaw of the engine. I’ve really babies it since then because I always believed these engines were very reliable.
Do your own oil changes using synthetic oil. Dealers will use recycled oil, synthetic or not. Mine gave me 300K miles until it finally blew a head gasket.
You should touch on the casting sand that plugs the heater core and radiator in these things too, every winter we do at least a dozen heater cores, and the coolant recovery bottle always has sand in the bottom.
I plan on tuning her after adding an 85 mm throttle bottle, an aFe CAI, and a standalone ECU to run on ethanol (E-85). Will the engine be able to take it? I mean the ethanol would be better for the engine. I want this to add 30-60 HP.
normally ethanol is for boosted applications where heat is a BIG problem for well...both heat and for performance. shouldn't be hard to make that 30 hp with a throttle body tune intake and maybe exhaust. Then again, they're pretty damn pegged at the power they have
I have three words for all y'all: regular oil changes. I just traded my 2012 Laramie with 135,000 miles on its 5.7 in on a newer used Power Wagon. They took my old truck in to have one of their mechanics check it out and he was amazed at how quiet the valve train was. Not a single 'tik'.
Adding a blower does not mean it’s not reliable because it wasn’t designed for boost. Thats why there’s a Hellcat. It’s not the pistons or rods it’s the NA ring gap. Once you add boost it gets hot and pushes the end of the rings together until it takes a chunk out of the piston.
Thats pretty much across the board about all stock engines aren't turbo charger or supercharger ready . The more you make them sceam the more damage your going do damage wise. These cars are fast enough leave them stock. No problems with my 2008 hemi .
I change my oil every time before it reaches 30% oil life. I don’t go by miles. Is that a good way to keep up on the oil changes. Extremely low idle times.
I’ve had 5 of these engines in various applications (Charger, Grand Cherokee, & 300) and never had an issue with this engine.
Exactly. The hemi probably one of the most reliable v8s
@@DreamWRLD22
That might be true, but LS or LS??
I’ve never talked bad about a Hemi!!
But they use the front suspension off a shopping cart!!
Always in the shadow of the Cummings!!
But no matter the brand if you take good care and change all the fluids and keep up on repairs they are all good!
But stay safe!!
Facts!!!! They are bullet proof
Blew a head gasket in my 3rd year @36k miles. No mods other than a catch can. My first and probably last FCA product. Loved the car with a passion but I babied the car and it still failed me.
On the other hand my dad has an 06’ 300 with the infamous 2.7 liter that he bought new and it’s still running 15 years later. I guess I was just unlucky with my 392. :,(
@@mikewest5529 aye I can’t say nothin bad about LS neither
I’ve got a 2004 HEMI with 174000 miles on it and it’s still going strong
100% Made WAY better back then
I have 223k miles on my 2005 model 5.7.
I’ve got 300,000 on my 2004 5.7 in my Ram 1500
161k on my ‘06 6.1 still running strong
Awesome to hear!
The modest level of intelligence at which this video is delivered sends a message to old-time car guys from the 60s-70s. Too many kids today have not the mind or practical capacity for messing with 'fast' cars and engines; they just know how to throw a ton of money at a vehicle, and then get in and step on the ego pedal.
You sir are 100% wrong I’m only 21 I’ve owned a Dodge Charger R/T, Nissan GT-R, and now a 2021 Scatpack never use eco mode 😂 I’ve also sat and test driven Mclaren specifically the 570s spider. Never have a accident or even a ticket going well over speed limits. But hey you think you buddy. Anytime now I’ll have a hellcat
@@jackgamby So?
These days what it takes to increase power in a stock vehicle is a lot different. Now you can do a tuner kit, maybe an intake manifold, and then things get very difficult and very expensive, very quickly. When I was a kid long ago my brother's friends would bring a brand new car home from the dealer and the next day they had the engine apart to change the cam and intake manifold and put on headers. You could tear apart the engine easily, everything was accessible and very straightforward. Now you can't begin to mess with stuff on that basis without it costing a fortune and possibly messing something up.
What a stupid take. All those hot rod shitboxes that your generation built arent around because they fell apart pumping out 300hp from a 455 big block.
@@abecx You're showing your ignorance there son. In the mid '70's, yes pollution equipment choked the heck out of the engines offered by the Big 3 but 1964 to 1971 was a wonderful era. 271 HP out of a 289, 370 HP out of a 350, 425 HP out of a 428, and don't get me started on the incredible family of 327s that in the L84 put out an amazing 375 HP! The 426 Hemi was sold as rated at 425 HP but in reality when dynoed was putting out 490 HP. So, I'll tell you what, read a few books before you come back on here running your noise-hole.
This is why I will be keeping my 392 completely stock!
Same!
392 is the 6.2. The 6.4 is 396 ci
760hp at the crank, with only 8lbs boost, good tune runs fine.
@@dieseljunker9234 what power adder you running? procharger?
The MDS lifters are your main concern. Some dude shortened a set of stock rings, removed the MDS lifters and has a reliable boosted 5.7 he beats on constantly at the dragstrip. The last thing you want to do is keep those MDS lifters! Ignore the envious hatred of the Chevy guys lol. All the Hemi people I know have reliable cars without MDS lifters; especially the manual cars that don't even have MDS lifters...
The 392 uses 0-40 oil not 5-20. The pistons and rods are not weak. They just aren't made for a supercharger. If you want a blower buy a hellcat. If you drive the car and don't let it idle for long periods of time you shouldn't have a problem with the cam and lifters. I've had 3 of these and they probably the best cars I've ever owned. The only problem I've ever had was on one car the screen on the radio de-laminated. .
The 6.4l stock is pretty reliable.
Stupid video. They are extremely reliable in stock form. The fact that they can't handle aftermarket boost is hardly a "fatal flaw".
@@ThoughtMachine1 true, he’s just naming the issues that these motors are known to have. Not all of them have these issues at the same time. Ik ppl with over 100k miles on them without any major problems. Personally have over 40k miles with the only problem being only a hole in the radiator lol.
I agree. If someone is satisfied with the stock HP and doesn’t want to add boost they will be just fine.
@@Disorderinthacourt yea there are still a ton of ppl who don’t wanna bother with modifying and it’s perfect for that. Maybe adding a catch can would help it but I still know ppl who don’t have them and are fine.
Totally agree brother.
So they are fine unless someone screws with them. Ok.
Exactly!!!! It’s reliable until these goofballs get their hands on em
You can mess with them, just don't boost it over 7-8 lbs without upgrading the internals. And make sure your tuner is experienced, and don't rag on it all day every day.
@@dieseljunker9234 these people who burn out their cars think it’s normal to do doughnuts everyday, burnouts everyday and they wonder why the rear diff is fucked, trans is fucked and motor is burned out at 30k miles.
@@Theycallmekenney That's true, and from experience it takes discipline to keep your foot out of it lol. Trick is just drive it easy, be conscious of what repairs cost compared to your wallet, but don't forget why you bought it. Once in a while find an empty road and drive it like you stole it, or trade it back in for a honda.
@@dieseljunker9234 exactly!! That’s how I treat mine it’s my daily and when it’s time to rip it I rip it on the backroads and on the highway but I’m not looking to just trash it by doing doughnuts and burnouts every chance I get who am I trying to prove something to?
Good info. Thanks. I have a 2018 SRT 392. One model weakness others have noted with these engines is the water pump. Its front bearing went out for me at about 42,000 miles. The car was still within the powertrain warranty so the dealer replaced the pump. Note: If you have this kind of work done at a dealership, be sure to check the fastener torques with your own torque wrench when you get home (cool engine). The dealer guys are prone to ignore this important step.
Re: the lifters (and the entire engine) - I would strongly suggest use of Amsoil Signature Series 0W-40. I realize it is more costly. But this is a full synthetic oil with demonstrated far better wear protection than most other synthetics. You can do your own online study on this.
Also keep in mind that cold oil lubricates less effectively than warm oil. So when setting out with a cold engine, I suggest selecting 'Sport' mode. This deactivates MDS and keeps the gearbox in lower gears at around-town speeds. The engine running faster provides better oil pressure and flow during that cold oil period. Once oil temp warms to about 150 degrees I will deselect 'Sport' mode unless I am still chugging around town at low speeds.
Last, try to avoid the "impress your friends" engine start accompanied with goosing the throttle. Sounds nice, but engine starts are always low oil flow moments, and that's not the best time to rev the engine. You are shortening engine life with this little bad habit.
i change my oil on my scat pack every 2000 miles in hopes of never experiencing that cam/lifter failure issue. once the car is paid off, i plan to do an "MDS Delete" with brand new lifters. I hear that this issue affects the MDS engines more often than the manual trans cars. Not sure how reliable that info is, but I feel that it's a good enough excuse to also throw in a custom cam & tune. :)
Nothing to do with MDS, but lifter roller bearing design weakness in early Gen 3 production.
Who cares bro
You know there's going to be a problem in the future and he still wants to do some upgrades to your bucket.
Removing MDS solenoids and lifters to allow full flow is the solution. MDS lifters only get oil when MDS is on. So if you remove the solenoid it allows the oil in to activate the mechanism in the lifter so this is why you want to remove them and replace with regular lifters otherwise MDS will always be on if you only delete the solenoids. This is why high idling cars have the issue way more than anything else because MDS doesn't turn when idling therefore starving lifters surfaces of oil. Very simple concept
@@corruption1724 non MDS Hemi have same lifter failures. Not oiling problem.
The rods are powdered metal, fractured big end. Very good rods, and the hyper-pistons are great for high performance non- power adder applications.
So Don’t Add boost, unless you’ve prepared the engine first!!!
85,000+ miles on my 2015 SRT 392 and the only engine issue I have had was a leaking intake manifold gasket. The engine runs as strong today as it did the day I bought the car back in 2016.
Do the lifters now. Mine failed at 100k. Not a matter of if... only when
How did you begin to notice this? My car just started shooting out white smoke on some cold starts, wondering if this could be the reason.
@@Gonzo0624 mine started with a intermittent ticking... sometimes light, you almost write it off. Best thing to do, replace them before 100k
@@perfectedsounds This is so true.
@@perfectedsoundsmy rt had that problem I should of listen after 100k like you stated (106k) 2 cylinders started misfiring
There was an internal engineering memo issued by Chrysler in 2015 that narrowed the lifter issue to an "anomaly within the needle bearing hardening process that was not recognized during production". Chrysler updated the specs in 2016 and then selected a different manufacturer for the lifters for the 2018 model year.
My 2016 Town&Country had 6 rockers fail at 87k miles
You would think tappets with roller bearings reliability would increase over flat tappets but when inferior metals are used with minimal case hardening applied, well this is what you'll see 🤷♂️
@@benkrom2737 Ford had this with the 5.4L 3V. Probably the same supplier. If there is any noise they say to replace all rockers (different setup but same idea). Not very common but it happens. That Ford engine can have oiling issues though.
@@Sam-656 2016 Town&Country don't have a 6.4 in it
This is good to know as I bought a 2019.
Best to stroke the 392 to 426 with all forged internals. But that ain’t cheap that’s for sure
@@raymondrocco8607 I’ve already done it. Lol
@@raymondrocco8607 no. Stroked my stock 392 to 426 with all forged internals.
@@Disorderinthacourt how much $
@@almucc6319 I did a lot more than just pistons and rods. Cam, long tube headers, fuel system upgrade, etc…. Total for all that was about 15k
@@BlackTorrent Not really man. A lot of muscle-car guys love our N/A power and sound. The unique advantage of the Hemi are the heads and their massive flow from the factory. We're talking $5k for aluminum racing heads for an LS just to get close to a factory Eagle head. That's excluding the massive camshaft an LS will have to run to support the flow as well as the pistons and rods to handle high RPM. All the Hemi guy has to do is cam, lifters, valve springs, and change pistons and rods. You don't have to do a stroker with a forged crank. With very very light porting there is no LS/LT head that can match a factory Eagle head let alone an Apache. The main problem is cost for parts due to less demand than a Chevy or Ford. That's why it's so expensive.
Thank you for this video 🙌. Good thing I always drive in Sport Mode on my Scat Pack Challenger to avoid MDS kicking in.
First thing I do when starting it up. Sport mode!
@@cgkuch4184 same 💯😂
You did an excellent job explaining this issue, thank you for the knowledge on the 5.7L hemi
My dad has a 2019 Dodge Charger RT Scat Pack with the 392 Hemi V8 and man its a beast.
I have a 75th Anniversary 2021 RAM 2500 Power Wagon with the 6.4L Hemi. At about 20,000 miles, I started to notice an occasional "sewing machine" ticking when first started. At just over 21,000 miles, it became louder and more persistent, then threw a code and the check engine light came on. I took it to the local CDJR dealer and they determined that a valve had stuck and bent a pushrod. In accordance with RAM guidance, they checked for metal in the oil filter and found none, so they did the repairs (supposedly). Had they found metal, it would have necessitated replacement of the engine. The loud noise has not returned, but the sewing machine ticking is still there when it's started cold.
None of the issues you report have spooked me about my 2019 Challenger Scat Pack. I love the power as-is & have no intention of supercharging it. If I wanted a blown engine, I’d have gotten a Hellcat. (Besides, 100K miles? How many owners will see that?) I change my oil frequently, so I have little concern w/the lifter issues. Just my opinions & thoughts.
The first owners won't, but the next guy that buys it used is going to have a bad time.
2014-16 they revised the lifters so it’ll hardly happen now.
I just sold my 05 5.7 Magnum with around 200k I abused that engine did oil changes around 10,000miles, floored it a lot, idling a lot, never experienced the hemi tick.
@@curtisnoble. exactly. As
Long as you change your oil regularly and don’t idle your car for more than 5 min you are good. If you are idling let’s say in a drive thru or are waiting on someone occasionally rev the engine to
2,000 rpm so it can splash oil everywhere and keep everything lubricated. This is why you saw a lot of police chargers for sale. But since the revision you don’t see a lot of the new police chargers. Not only did they revise the lifters they also revised the camshaft which now makes the lobes higher. So
Do research and you can reference everything I’m saying simply by going to a Chrysler website and check all the revisions by part number. Never buy any lifters from a parts store as they are using the old design! I learned the hard way. Always order directly from Chrysler
@@OddWrld I’ve ran the engine without coolant, overheated dozen times, floored when cold, ran on 7 cylinders once for a few miles, the engine is still strong. I’ve put 100k on the engine until I sold it, I’m sorry for the next owner but that engine shouldn’t have lasted this long.
The 6.4 is very reliable and is designed to be exactly as it is for a reason. From a company standpoint if you want some serious horse power they have got you covered, HELLCAT. The 392 is a fantastic engine and for most 485 hp is fine, considering that the bad boys of years past was 375 - 450 hp.
and that's GROSS pre emissions. even if they weren't choked their SAE net rating would be more in line of 310 - 390 hp. 485 is more than enough for most people.
Yep. 485 is plenty.
@@thomasl911e154 It sure is brother.
I wish Dodge would make a 3600 lb car to put these engines in, even as heavy as they are they are fast, but if they lost 7-800 lbs no LS/LT or Coyote could touch them.
@@samholcombe3129
Then you would have another mustang or Camaro. If you have driven these then a Challenger it is literally night and day. Not just ride but interior space. The Challenger cannot be the same weight and keep the ride and size and that us truly what makes it what it is. Yes she is a big girl but that ride is well worth it, at least to me. Apparently to alot of people also, it has kicked the Camaro in sales for a while now and last qtr the mustang to. If you want to carve some corners then the mustang and Camaro are definitely your choice, but for a nice ride with some serious stoplight/ track action then the Challenger/Charger is a very viable option. I personally have made 3 - 600 mile trips in my SRT 392, each way. One 5oo mile in a mustang, do not recommend that especially compared to my Challenger. And with the new wide body the corner times have improved alot.
Again, to combat the Lt and coyote we have the Hellcat that runs right along or slightly better.
Seems to be similar to LS issues, wrist pins and pistons. I know there are LS/LT running low boost on stock internals with no problem.
I think the 392 not liking boost is another way of saying if you want a boosted HEMI, get a Hellcat.
Sup Marspeed, congrats on 100k! My parents use to have a 392 Durango, but now we have a Hellcat Durango. I think it would be cool if you can do one of those videos where you find how many are made for the Hellcat Durango, and how many Hellcat Durango was made for a color.
Hey thanks bro! Yeah I can try to do that! It’s getting harder to find production numbers but I can do my best, if you have a specific year/color I can try to find it out for you as well
@@MarspeedCars Hey I understand, when we got the Durango Hellcat, doin our application told us some numbers, like with our current Hellcat, black with blue stripes, he guess around high low digits and low double digits for the black & blue.
Ask and you shall receive. (sometimes) www.dodgedurango.net/threads/any-updates-on-the-2021-durango-hellcat.79353/page-47 scroll down a bit.
I run sport mode in my Charger Scat Pack 90% of the time to disable MDS. Also, change your oil regularly with the recommended Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.
0w40?
@@coolbreezeNYC1 Yep, 0W40 on the 6.4Ls. All these issues now days with every manufacturer comes down to one thing....oil changes.
I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee SRT with avout 90000km on the clock, about a two months ago that loud lifter tick decided to show up. This vehicle has been well cared for and oil has been changed 2 times a year as recommended(under 6000km's every time) with recommended oil. Upon disassembley I found 2 of the non MDS lifters had needle bearing failures and 2 of the MDS lifters had failed by way of the inner body/locking mechanism rotating in the lifter body effectively not allowing them to be ridged when MDS was not active. Luckily I found this before the lifters started eating in to the cam. Cam and lifters were replaced, MDS was deleted. Now the thing runs like a top again.
I also happen to have a 2015 Ram 2500 with the 6.4 that was affected by the wrist pin issue. The engine was replaced under warranty and have had no additional issues with that vehicle.
All this being said the modern Hemi is an great engine and I'm not looking to replace my vehicles at this point in time.
ottimi motori dici ?? con questi problemi a questi chilometraggi ?? io non credo .
On SRT 6.4L 392 Hemi's. They use ( SAE 0W-40, Synthetic API oil). Page 194 in the 2015 Challengers Owners Manual. Not 5w 20 oil.
Wish I would have known these things early on. A failed lifter is what did my motor in, and I was at 117,000 miles. Just bought a new 6.4 engine after my car been sitting for 2 years plus. The failed lifters destroyed my camshaft and initially destroyed my crankshaft as well, along with the main seal, connecting rod bearings and bent some of my push rods. As said on the video, it's very hard to catch the problem early, I experienced the misfiring codes. I thought it was spark plugs and changed that. Code still was there, so I changed coil pack, then fuel injector cause the misfiring was coming up as cyclinder 8 misfire. Even changed my camshaft sensor as well. Still the problem was there. Took it to the dealer, and they couldn't tell without opening the engine up. They want 800.00 just to open up the engine. So once the engine finally blew, I took it to my mechanic who was a mopar tech, he took my engine out, and broke it down what had occurred. Pretty much what the video person was saying. He explained mopar went cheap with another company using cheaper lifters for the 6.4 engine. 6.1 hemi doesn't have this problem like the 6.4. One sure way to know if your having lifter problems is checking your oil for metal flakes in your oil.
oil change at 6000 ( six month ) miles or not ?
.@@alexvivinc They say you can go for 6,000. I changed mines every 3,000 to 5,000 though.
What year was your hemi?
@@STARFIGHT88 2012
I have a 2014 Jeep GC SRT (bought it at 34,300 miles in 2019) and I had cylinder misfire issues around 87,800 miles. I ordered a COMP Cam, stage 2 set along with MDS solenoid delete plugs. Since the engine was cracked open I also replaced the timing chain, a Melling high-volume oil pump, gaskets and bolts. I have driven over 27,000 since the work and haven't had any issues.
Why would you buy a 392 and boost an already great engine anyway? That's dumb. If you want that then buy a Hellcat. The internals of the 392 are more than adequate to withstand the 485hp, just don't get greedy as most people do.🙄
Congrats on 100k! Keep it up and you'll hit a million before you know it
Most people boost there 392 to 7 pounds as the engine is said to be optimized from the factory ! , congrats on the 100,000 milestone
Man I keep hearing about the lifter issues and problems but we have had 4 of the 5.7 and on the 2nd of the 6.4 for our ranch. We have luckily have never experienced ANY problems, with all of them getting 130k-175k before they get traded off and i can promise they all don't get the maint on time.
Thanks for making this! I've been currently shopping, looking at a possible 2500 with a 6.4, and it's good that it's something to be aware of. Sucks that you can't "inspect" this issue more easily so that you can tell whether or not it's good for a while, or if it's starting to show signs that it will fail and cause you bigger headaches. Thank you!
Just go ahead and spend the extra little bit of cash get the Cummins instead of the gasser it’ll save you on fuel if it’s deleted will be way more reliable and will run a million miles
@@dorianclinton3740 but they won't sell me a Cummins in a challenger
Considering the guy wraps up the video recommending 5w-20 which is wrong for the 2500’s 6.4, i would take this with a grain of salt. How is taking an engine beyond factory specs by modding it a fatal flaw with the engine itself? How prevalent is the bearing issue?
That was my mistake unfortunately as I had used the slide from a similar video I did for the 5.7L Hemi
@@dorianclinton3740 Cummins charger now.
My lifter problem occurred at 39k miles on my 2012 300 SRT.
6.4 HEMI 138,000 miles. No issues so far. I Change the oil with the SRT recommended Penzoil and Wix filter every 5,000 miles. I also make sure to romp the gas every once in a while
Hey bro what’s “romp”? … asking b/c I do the same with the oil changes on my JEEP SRT.
@@tonymunoz7400 he means to floor it
Personally I've only driven a rental with the Hemi 392 and I thought it was great - too much fun!
I have a 2016 392 Scatpack with what I believe is a lifter issue but Chrysler won't do anything unless I pay for the diagnostic. The ticking noise is only heard at low RPM (very noticeable) and disappears as RPM increases and has been this way forever. I always drive in Sport or Track mode so MDS never kicks in, do lots of manual shifting, change my oil using only Pennzoil 0-40 at the recommended time and never sit and idle very long. Currently I have 90,822 miles and keeping my fingers crossed.
What do you recommend?
I got the same year...but track mode is the only one that disables mds
9:30 the recommended oil for the 392 is 0W-40, not 5W-20 (that one is for the 5.7)
I am sorry but you are horribly wrong with your statement. 5W20 should always be used in a 6.4L Hemi Engine. I am a mechanic for a Dodge Dealership I am super knowledgeable on EVERY aspect of this engine. Not to mention qualified to say that you are sadly mistaken.
Fatal flaws:
The engine was built really well and has high compression so if you are stupid and add boost to the stock internal engine it will probably fail.
If you don’t properly maintain the engine the lifters will fail and wipe out the cam somewhere around 75,000-100,000 miles. If you ignore it long enough you’ll need a new engine.
Neither of these are flaws of the engine, they are flaws of the owner of the vehicle.
Well if you use the oil made for the engine Ms12633 approved your lifter should last. The top ring location is the issue with boost. keep it under 7psi an it should be fine
Glad my little 3.2 pentastar has been so reliable with not one problem since bought in 2015.
My SRT 392 Challenger does not have the MDS. It is a manual transmission, which doesn't come with MDS. There are thousands of Hemi's that don't have the failure issue with the lifters. As pointed out in the video, it is mostly fleet vehicles with high idle time. Oil pressure and circulation is lower at idle. The MDS system doesn't help either.
The 392 lives fine with naturally aspirated mods. Cam, headers, tuning can get you over 600 HP reliably. Don't put boost to an engine that isn't designed for it and it will live. The compression ratio for the 392 is too high for boost.
You say it's difficult to detect the failing lifter bearings. There is an easy way to diagnose this kind of fault early, which is routine practice with aero engines.
At each oil change, check the drained oil for metal particles - or better still have a sample analysed. Cut open the old filter and look inside. If there is any sign that the engine is "making metal" you know it's time to act.
Another handy trick is to install a magnetic sump plug - that will usually collect steel/iron particles before they get picked up and sent through the filter. Again, if you pull the plug and see that it's loaded, it's time to act. This way you'll probably get to the problem and be able to replace the roller bearings, before the cam gets damaged.
Want to go further? Install a chip detector in the sump. Again, this is standard practice in aviation - especially for helicopters.
Thank you so much for you're 6.4 problems . I own a 2014 dodge 2500 with the 6.4 & spun bering . It seems to be a common problem with the 6.4 & now i know why & also know what i have to do . Thank
This is my favorite mopar engine their is
*there
I have had 2 6.1s (one I put 200K miles on and the other is 150K and still going strong). I had 2 5.7s and both engines had problems with lifters. I have a 6.4 but it has an upgraded rockers, lifters, etc. and is rock solid. It is the best motor. The 6.1 felt more like a race motor, but the 6.4 has so much more low-end power it is no contest.
I totaled my 6.1 Saturday. Been shopping around looking at 392s. They’re definitely faster, but how are they for a daily?
Is it better to invest and upgrade the 392 parts as you mentioned with better rockers, lifters, etc for better solid performance and decrease chance of failure issues with the motor ?
@carsonbynum4017 great daily driver. As long as you update the lifters
@masspike_kingcommander9334 that is my belief. I had a brand new engine and still upgraded the lifters and it runs like a beast. I have gapped three different scat packs
Thank you for the video. I have a 2013 challenger srt8. I know one person in my car group who has put a supercharger on their 6.4 challenger. So far it's running good I forget how much boost he's making.
how many miles on your srt? Getting my 2012 6.4L 300 this weekend with 75,xxx miles. Curious if you’ve had any issues regarding the Cam/lifters
@@myKurisma mine currently has over 105,000 miles on it runs good. Could run better though. I probably need to get it tuned and replace spark plugs and coils. Maybe get a larger throttle body. Congrats on the srt 300. They look great. That's gotta be a fun sedan. Looks luxurious too
What's funny about all automobile industries is there are certain years where they make a very reliable engine, parts etc. Then in the second year they make changes and most of the parts in the cars are crap like years before so they don't last. They want parts to fail by or alittle after the warranties People we're getting played
I don't have a lot of money and they're not that expensive compared to a lot of other cars.
With 485 horsepower what more do you need.
You're assessment is bogus. The 392 is one of the most reliable displacement ever created. As for the performance IT'S A MOPAR! These engines are already at the top end of It's performance limits from the factory. This has been the case from the beginning of Chrysler. Anyone who knows MOPAR history knows that if you want to increase your HP and torque bands then you basically need to do an entire rebuild. I rebuilt my 392 to a 426. Everything has been changed and I mean everything in the drive train from engine to differential. My SRT Challenger is a 2012 six speed and even though it's extremely powerful only a fool would treat it like a dragpac every second it's being driven. Everything has it's limitations. Number one reason for valve failure especially in Iron block engines is people who doesn't allow cool down time prior to shutdown. Heat spike occurs when the engine is hot and coolant needs to flow through the system to drop the temperature to a safe level to prevent valve collapse. I'm beyond over hearing the absolute absurdity.
Which is more reliable a 392 motor or an 6.2 LS motor? I'm talking about stock to stock and no modification just for a normal everyday use.
LS factory stock engine better choice for daily driver. Lower maintenance. Just be fore warned about wobbling harmonic balancer and if that engine is equipped with AFS system.
Don't know where you got the 5W-20 weight from but my 392 scat pack requires 0W-40 synthetic as per manufacture. Penzoil Platinum is what I run.
Yeah that was my mistake I used the slide from my 5.7 video which uses 5W-20. Scat is 0W-40
I heard something intriguing about the mds and how it can actually help lube the roller portion better. Either way I have a tick from hell and a slight shudder while at idle. Hot or cold it does it. Sooooo a nice new set of non mds lifters and a sweet lopey cam are around the corner I guess🤷🏻♂️ 2014 JGC
2014 gc here as well. Get hellcat lifted and a cam. You'll be fine 🙃 people love my Jeep.
@Nebowore that's interesting. But we can agree that hemi tick occurs with OEM 392 and 345 lifters.
My dream would be to have an Indigo Blue Scat Pack Challenger. I heard the water pump was a common issue on the 6.4 as well.
This is true about the water pump, mine started leaking around 38000 miles. I have a 2013 Challenger SRT manual trans.
2011 SRT 8 ....125,000 miles. Strong as ever. Very healthy.
My 2019 Ram has this problem. After spending 8k in repair the engine totally failed again after about 200 miles of driving. This will be my last Chrysler product ever. I have joined the class action lawsuit against Chrysler for this engine that is designed to fail.
I work at a Chrysler dealer. A few years back there was a memo that if you are running a 5.7 or 6.4 in you Challenger or Charger and using it for any type of severe service application it was recommended to use SAE 5 W 40 full synthetic instead of 5 W 20 or 0 W 40. I also use Lucas ZDDP additive to help with the cam and lifters. Increased ZDDP can't hurt as you need ZDDP to help lubricate ferrous metals under heavy pressure. This significantly helped reduce the slight tick that Hemi engines have.
I also disabled the MDS.
Plate C
My 2012 RT Challenger didn’t have problems but I traded it in for a Vetter way before the 100,000 mile mark.
I bought my Scat Pack specifically because I wanted an N/A car (got a Terminator for the boost 😋). IMO its the most balanced V8 Chrysler produces and its not exactly a surprise that higher compression isn’t typically as good for boost as lower is, despite internals.
Love my 2012 392 challenger every 3,000 miles she gets fully synthetic, have a tuner, cat back slp loudmouth resonater no mufflers k&n cold air thats that..love it
6.1 is king well until we see your video about them. But seriously I haven't heard anything bad about the 6.1 at all. Other then people who abuse them and cheap out on maintenance or proper oil for the motor. Which I never understood why some people buy a performance car to cheap out on service?
Agreed 100%... These "fatal flaw" conversations, as the years pass, will give them a bad rep, and only experienced people and Mythbusters will be able to fix it. Honestly this all sounds just like the consensus abour the old Dodge Stealths and 3000GTs...too complicated, too fragile, too much maintenance, not reliable, etc, which is all garbage if the prescribed maintenance was followed. How someone would buy the equivalent of a (now) $50-60k sports car, and then not do the maintenance, and then bitch when it breaks, is beyond me...!!!
The 6.1 is way more reliable than the 6.4.
@@MrCSRT8 ain't that the truth brother. Only loved the 6.1 as the 300c we got in Australia first gen look is just pure awesome wish we got the chargers to but happy to have a modern mopar with a serious hemi in it
392 with silly variable cam notwithstanding - I'm jealous of you guys down under getting several more model years of 300 SRT - the latest ones with the 8-speed - denied us in North America (FU FCA!).
But my '06 300 6.1 with cam, heads, ported manifold, polished exhaust ports, stock exhaust, and stock 5-speed makes 525hp (390 kW) and 492 ft/lbs at the crank and puts down 450hp/426ft-lbs to the wheels.
In short; don't bother trying to add power to it. Just be happy with what you got already.
As long as you change your oil regularly and don’t idle your car for more than 5 min you are good. If you are idling let’s say in a drive thru or are waiting on someone occasionally rev the engine to
2,000 rpm so it can splash oil everywhere and keep everything lubricated. This is why you saw a lot of police chargers for sale. But since the lifter revision in 2015 you don’t see a lot of the new police chargers. Not only did they revise the lifters they also revised the camshaft which now makes the lobes higher. So
Do research and you can reference everything I’m saying simply by going to a Chrysler website and check all the revisions by part number. Never buy any lifters from a parts store as they are using the old design! I learned the hard way. Always order directly from Chrysler
Scary stuff. Whenever mine sits for a while I used the built in coil kill feature to spin the motor to lube it before starting my 2015 Challenger SRT 392. You depress the gas pedal fully and hit the start button.
Pretty sure dodge put weak rods/pistons in the 392 so we couldn’t throw a whipple on it and have a hellcat for less money!!
The camshaft doesn't get bathed in oil ( like it should) because the cam bore is too high in the block. Set any modern block next to and old school block. So at idle the lifters don't get lubed properly.
Lifters are definitely a true issue on the 6.4 hemi. Had to get mine replaced with camshaft and the vehicle is completely stock with 53k miles. The notorious Hemi Lifter Tick ! It happens because of lack of lubrication. Crank is too far from the camshaft, drive about 2k RPM!
👍You got that right.
What year?
Use full synthetic oil that seems to solve the problems. I got 400,000 miles on my 5.7 and the head gasket went bad. That's it the lifters are fine.
I bought my 392 knowing there wasn’t much I could do to it without spending enough that it would be like buying the Hellcat. Good to know about the possible lifters problem.
Would it be safe to say that my M6 392 will be good since I usually shift around 3k-4k rpm when cruising around town, and is kept stock? I'm at 40k miles right now and have never had an issue at this point.
LS Corvette engines have harmonic balancer wobble/failures. All of these performance cars have weaknesses and cost more to repair. If you want super reliability, low maintenance, low cost get a Toyota Corolla SE HATCHBACK with 6 spd. manual transmission. Don't get CVT TRANSMISSION.
I put over 160k miles in my Trackhawk, over 120k miles in my SRT 392 Challenger, never had any issue with either of them aside from a minor electrical issue with the challenger. I
Thanks for making this informative and interesting video
Again another great video!! Keep the videos coming!!
My 2012 300 SRT had a lifter issue that damaged the cam. It only has 39k miles on it one of the lifters failed and wore down the cam and it wasn't one of the MDS lifters.
Did your vehicle display warning signs ⚠️ such as a ticking noise, vehicle misfire at times at all ?
@@masspike_kingcommander9334 Yes, I heard the ticking noise after the car warmed up. I just finished getting the engine rebuild, and it cost around $6,000.
So keep it factory stock for less problems. Don't do any mods. But even then you will have problems down the road with the needle pins at higher mileage. Change oil frequently based on idle time = HIGH MAINTENANCE. This is the type of vehicle to keep for a short term or lease it then turn it in before problems happen.🤯😵💫🙈🙀
Soo glad I purchased the 6 speed manual (no MDS). 2016 Challenger Skat Pack, shaker, she gets babied with 21,000 miles on her. Have had no problems and don't expect I will. Great, informative video!
can be said of every engine out there, regardless of the manufacturer.
Nice showing and States Marines we thank you a bunch of the guys got that car thank you
Had a 2014 Ram 6.4 2500 with 30,000 miles had wrist pin noise at cold start up. I traded it in for a 2017 Ram 6.4 2500 at 35,000 miles had lifter issues. I traded it for a 2021 Tundra crew max 5.7 and love the truck. Done with the 6.4s
I have been looking for a Chrysler 300 srt8 with the 6.4. I have done a decent amount of research and a flaw that he didn’t mention was that the cylinder deactivation feature, at least on the 300 that is, (I’m not sure what other versions have deactivation) they cause problems. I’m not sure how but my guess is that the unused cylinders are running dry.
Fatal? I guess we should ignore the fact that they have a reputation for being among the most reliable engines available today.
Exactly. Any time you boosting an engine or doing heavy modifications you run this risk.
@@omcx1e the 392 was not designed to be boosted considering it doesn’t have forged internals.
I have an 18 SRT392. I had a broken valve spring at 30,000 miles, that required the dealer to tear the top end off and replace a bunch of crap under warranty thank God. I don’t beat on the car and it’s not modded. I’m wondering if that’s also a fatal flaw of the engine. I’ve really babies it since then because I always believed these engines were very reliable.
Congrats on 100k big dawg. Get that $
Do your own oil changes using synthetic oil. Dealers will use recycled oil, synthetic or not.
Mine gave me 300K miles until it finally blew a head gasket.
Thanks. You just told me what to do to my 392….Forge forge
My parts cannon would be giving Militec1 an opportunity to lubricate internals long term.
I forget where but I also heard the SRT engineers said the 6.4 is good for something like a 70 shot of NOS stock.
You should touch on the casting sand that plugs the heater core and radiator in these things too, every winter we do at least a dozen heater cores, and the coolant recovery bottle always has sand in the bottom.
I’ve heard that was a bigger issue on the 3.6L Pentastars but didn’t know it affected these as well thanks for sharing
@@MarspeedCars no problem, we maintain about 20 Ram 2500/3500 trucks from 2013-2016, and honestly, I'm not a big fan.
Uh I bought mine to be exactly what I wanted and I’m happy, no mods going on my last call scat pack.
There is a lot of controversy on “the last call” and I’m not so sure it truly is the “last call” we will see what dodge produces
Flaws of engine, and you start out with modifications and failures. Get out of here! Wasting my time with click-bait title.
I plan on tuning her after adding an 85 mm throttle bottle, an aFe CAI, and a standalone ECU to run on ethanol (E-85). Will the engine be able to take it? I mean the ethanol would be better for the engine. I want this to add 30-60 HP.
normally ethanol is for boosted applications where heat is a BIG problem for well...both heat and for performance. shouldn't be hard to make that 30 hp with a throttle body tune intake and maybe exhaust. Then again, they're pretty damn pegged at the power they have
I have three words for all y'all: regular oil changes. I just traded my 2012 Laramie with 135,000 miles on its 5.7 in on a newer used Power Wagon. They took my old truck in to have one of their mechanics check it out and he was amazed at how quiet the valve train was. Not a single 'tik'.
I think that fact needs to up power in the truck version maybe like 450 hp and 550 tq
Adding a blower does not mean it’s not reliable because it wasn’t designed for boost. Thats why there’s a Hellcat. It’s not the pistons or rods it’s the NA ring gap. Once you add boost it gets hot and pushes the end of the rings together until it takes a chunk out of the piston.
Para evitar esos problemas la solucion es simple usar el aceite correcto
So a supercharger would be a bad idea ?
Thats pretty much across the board about all stock engines aren't turbo charger or supercharger ready . The more you make them sceam the more damage your going do damage wise. These cars are fast enough leave them stock. No problems with my 2008 hemi .
I change my oil every time before it reaches 30% oil life. I don’t go by miles. Is that a good way to keep up on the oil changes. Extremely low idle times.
485 HP is more than enough, mods aren't necessary.