Thank you Micah. I bought a new LS tractor with a quick hitch and a new brush hog three months ago. All installations were done by the dealer. No instructions were given me at all. I did read the manual. l have already broken one link check chain and bent the other - most likely because there was too much sway. This video helps clear up the faulty issue. I will tighten up the sway as soon as the new link check chain is delivered.
Dealers seem to be just fine with selling you something, getting advise is another thing. The delivery guy may not know anything about what you bought.
All valid points. I bought a used tractor that came with a brush cutter and I didn't check the shear pin. I broke the flange on the PTO shaft and twisted the shaft. I replaced it with a PTO shaft with a slip clutch and a shear pin with the correct bolt. I have also done some inadvertent plowing with the tail wheel and run over large pieces of metal.
Another reason to have your brush cutter's front slightly lower than the rear is your blades are cutting material only once. With the rear lower, your blades are cutting the same material several times as you move forward, accelerating the wear of your blades. Also, a cursory survey of the area to be mowed can pay dividends. The first time I prepared to mow a grown-up powerline area on my property I found old insulators and angle iron pieces in the deep grass. I shudder to think what might have resulted from mowing over them.
Old man here with ALL the experience of what NOT to do. You sir, gave excellent advice. I would always opt for a $1.50 shear pin with nylon nut over the slip clutch anyday. I use a "bushog" to cut my fields in the fall but use a flail mower in the chestnut grove. They have their own purposes. Maybe do a video on that. Anyway....Cheers to you young man.
I've always wondered which is better, a cutter with a rounded backend such as yours or one with a squared back end. Nice tips, especially on need for heat to escape the gear box. A neighbor from south of PDX. I've got the LS 230 turbo and looking for a cutter. thanks
Most round back cutters have a larger opening on the back, which would definitely help expel more material faster. Other than that, i haven't seen much of a difference
Add a rock screen to the ROPS (I'm not telling you to weld or drill in it), my brother ,when he was 15-16 was knock off the tractor when he hit a rock. Dad was pulling a brush hog and when he turned a corner; hit a rock. The rock piece was tangerine sized and went through the side glass. I see Hwy mowers with bush hog that have chains in the front and no rock screen on the tractor, so that may be enough. Raise the bush hog when you back up into an unknown.
An elderly cousin of mine was killed when he crawled under the brush hog to remove some barb wire in the pasture. The tractor lift leaked down and he couldn't get out. So when you have to do this, put a log underneath so it will not go down.
Unless you are using your brush hog to give a finish look for custom work, they kill weeds (and some grass) better with dull blades. Look close at the brush hog's "cut".
shear pin info is backwards, they are not soft, they are hard, more brittle to break rather than bend and not break. Some shear pins have a weak spot cut into them also, read your manual to see what is recommended.
Never seen anything but #2 shear bolt. I have seen roller/tension pins used for shear in rotary mowers. The advise to check the manual is key, then buy some extras to put in your parts box.
Quick hard question. Is the Woods BB72 a better or stronger Brush Hog than the LS MRC72-SC? Is the LS unit available with the same moveable 3-point framework as the Woods?
I had the LS cutter and really liked it. It was made by Bad Boy in Arkansas. It has a floating top link like the woods. I'd say that the Woods overall may be a little more heavy duty, but the sides of the Bad Boy were a little thicker.
Thank you Micah. I bought a new LS tractor with a quick hitch and a new brush hog three months ago. All installations were done by the dealer. No instructions were given me at all. I did read the manual. l have already broken one link check chain and bent the other - most likely because there was too much sway. This video helps clear up the faulty issue. I will tighten up the sway as soon as the new link check chain is delivered.
Dealers seem to be just fine with selling you something, getting advise is another thing.
The delivery guy may not know anything about what you bought.
All valid points. I bought a used tractor that came with a brush cutter and I didn't check the shear pin. I broke the flange on the PTO shaft and twisted the shaft. I replaced it with a PTO shaft with a slip clutch and a shear pin with the correct bolt. I have also done some inadvertent plowing with the tail wheel and run over large pieces of metal.
Another reason to have your brush cutter's front slightly lower than the rear is your blades are cutting material only once. With the rear lower, your blades are cutting the same material several times as you move forward, accelerating the wear of your blades. Also, a cursory survey of the area to be mowed can pay dividends. The first time I prepared to mow a grown-up powerline area on my property I found old insulators and angle iron pieces in the deep grass. I shudder to think what might have resulted from mowing over them.
Old man here with ALL the experience of what NOT to do. You sir, gave excellent advice. I would always opt for a $1.50 shear pin with nylon nut over the slip clutch anyday. I use a "bushog" to cut my fields in the fall but use a flail mower in the chestnut grove. They have their own purposes. Maybe do a video on that. Anyway....Cheers to you young man.
I've always wondered which is better, a cutter with a rounded backend such as yours or one with a squared back end. Nice tips, especially on need for heat to escape the gear box. A neighbor from south of PDX. I've got the LS 230 turbo and looking for a cutter. thanks
Most round back cutters have a larger opening on the back, which would definitely help expel more material faster. Other than that, i haven't seen much of a difference
@@HomesteadBandwagon Thanks
Greasing the universal joints. You mentioned the shaft, but missed the joints.
Add a rock screen to the ROPS (I'm not telling you to weld or drill in it), my brother ,when he was 15-16 was knock off the tractor when he hit a rock. Dad was pulling a brush hog and when he turned a corner; hit a rock. The rock piece was tangerine sized and went through the side glass.
I see Hwy mowers with bush hog that have chains in the front and no rock screen on the tractor, so that may be enough.
Raise the bush hog when you back up into an unknown.
An elderly cousin of mine was killed when he crawled under the brush hog to remove some barb wire in the pasture. The tractor lift leaked down and he couldn't get out. So when you have to do this, put a log underneath so it will not go down.
Great reminder to chech the gearbox oil! Do you Sharpen the blades regularly?
Unless you are using your brush hog to give a finish look for custom work, they kill weeds (and some grass) better with dull blades. Look close at the brush hog's "cut".
shear pin info is backwards, they are not soft, they are hard, more brittle to break rather than bend and not break. Some shear pins have a weak spot cut into them also, read your manual to see what is recommended.
Never seen anything but #2 shear bolt. I have seen roller/tension pins used for shear in rotary mowers. The advise to check the manual is key, then buy some extras to put in your parts box.
Quick hard question. Is the Woods BB72 a better or stronger Brush Hog than the LS MRC72-SC? Is the LS unit available with the same moveable 3-point framework as the Woods?
I had the LS cutter and really liked it. It was made by Bad Boy in Arkansas. It has a floating top link like the woods. I'd say that the Woods overall may be a little more heavy duty, but the sides of the Bad Boy were a little thicker.
@@HomesteadBandwagon Thanks for the information. It's greatly appreciated. Always check out your videos.God Bless you and family.
Not very extensively researched. I can think of MANY more ways to break a brush cutter…