The plastic that you speak of underneath the push plate, do you happen to know what type of plastic it is and where you sourced it from? I'm looking to do the same thing you've done and any advice on the type of plastic would be appreciated. Thanks
I have a TW5 and split maybe 35-40 cord a year. I have a six way wedge on it and i have the same problem where the wood flares out when it pushes into the wedge. The splitter has a small push block 8" tall x 6" wide and, i'm thinking about making the head bigger 10" wide x 12" tall and i think that will help combat the flaring problem with the wood. Any ideas?
I put little rudder type blades out the bottom of the horizontal wedges. Timberwolves 4 or six way just float on the cylinder I believe. So even if you had the rudders it may just lift up. Widening the push block might help. Rule of thumb on that is keep the bottom at least as long as the upright. I am curious to know what you come up with.
How were you bending the bolts on your push block? Were knotty pieces trying to force the block 'up' and therefor creating stress? Do you have any pics of what that looked like? Like I said in one of your other videos, I have a very similar setup on one that I am finishing and would like to 'head off' any possible failures. Thanks!
Mike Groat The bolts we're bending because the sled was getting forced up. The old hot rolled steel was bending and the 4 bolts closest to the wedge were getting twisted. I then changed to 5/8 bolts and merely twisted the 2 closest bolts to the wedge. But the 3/8 hot rolled steel was taking a serious beating. A local shop suggested cold rolled steel of the same thickness. Since then it has held up fine. I am about to flip the brass sliders over to start the wear on the other side. There is well over a hundred cords on the brass and the sled is just getting to the point of moving to much side to side. Hope that answers your questions.
Why do you put the push plate on top of the slider plate and not in front of the slider plate ? Won’t the slider plate put horizontal pressure on the bolts as it itself makes contact with the wood ?
It does add more pressure to the bolts on the push block. I did it this way because I wanted The push block to be tall. I can have a 8in or so log on the beam and stick a small log or a single piece on top of it and the push block catches it and splits it as well. After beefing up the bottom plates and the bolts I have not bent anything.
Graham Schuld thanks for the reply, I love your splitter you did extremely good work better then a lot of he commercial splitters I have looked at thanks again !
Graham Schuld no problem, I split fire wood when I’m home from college to make some side money would love to get as advanced as yours one day again beautiful work
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Brilliant!.love it
The plastic that you speak of underneath the push plate, do you happen to know what type of plastic it is and where you sourced it from? I'm looking to do the same thing you've done and any advice on the type of plastic would be appreciated. Thanks
I purchased it from professional plastics online. It is uhmw. I have a 1/4" 12x12 under the push block and 3/8" 4x12 on the underside of the H beam
@@ixcel83 Thank you!
Hey man did you build it or have it built? It looks like a great machine you should do some more videos on it please.
Weld Weld Hey thanks. I built it myself. I am hoping to do more videos and hopefully a picture video of it getting built.
Those timbers behind you look the A’s two years ago
I have a TW5 and split maybe 35-40 cord a year. I have a six way wedge on it and i have the same problem where the wood flares out when it pushes into the wedge. The splitter has a small push block 8" tall x 6" wide and, i'm thinking about making the head bigger 10" wide x 12" tall and i think that will help combat the flaring problem with the wood. Any ideas?
I put little rudder type blades out the bottom of the horizontal wedges. Timberwolves 4 or six way just float on the cylinder I believe. So even if you had the rudders it may just lift up. Widening the push block might help. Rule of thumb on that is keep the bottom at least as long as the upright. I am curious to know what you come up with.
How were you bending the bolts on your push block? Were knotty pieces trying to force the block 'up' and therefor creating stress? Do you have any pics of what that looked like? Like I said in one of your other videos, I have a very similar setup on one that I am finishing and would like to 'head off' any possible failures. Thanks!
Mike Groat The bolts we're bending because the sled was getting forced up. The old hot rolled steel was bending and the 4 bolts closest to the wedge were getting twisted. I then changed to 5/8 bolts and merely twisted the 2 closest bolts to the wedge. But the 3/8 hot rolled steel was taking a serious beating. A local shop suggested cold rolled steel of the same thickness. Since then it has held up fine.
I am about to flip the brass sliders over to start the wear on the other side. There is well over a hundred cords on the brass and the sled is just getting to the point of moving to much side to side.
Hope that answers your questions.
Yes, thank you. I will keep an eye on mine!
Why do you put the push plate on top of the slider plate and not in front of the slider plate ? Won’t the slider plate put horizontal pressure on the bolts as it itself makes contact with the wood ?
It does add more pressure to the bolts on the push block. I did it this way because I wanted
The push block to be tall. I can have a 8in or so log on the beam and stick a small log or a single piece on top of it and the push block catches it and splits it as well. After beefing up the bottom plates and the bolts I have not bent anything.
Graham Schuld thanks for the reply, I love your splitter you did extremely good work better then a lot of he commercial splitters I have looked at thanks again !
@@Tj11714 Thank you! It was a lot of work, but totally work it. I just split 3 1/2 cords on Friday for some customers. I love the machine.
Graham Schuld no problem, I split fire wood when I’m home from college to make some side money would love to get as advanced as yours one day again beautiful work
What are the numbers on this build how much do you have into it
scheibie There is around 6 in parts paint and materials.
Graham Schuld 600 or 6k
scheibie 6k