I posted about this last video. I figured this was the problem. The oil from the clutch side and air is getting past the screw. No it's not supposed to be like that, someone put the wrong bolt in that hole and I'm sure used a rattlegun to put it back and punched a hole behind the boss. Glad to see my theory was correct! Edit: This bike is very clapped out sadly. If it were me, I would have someone weld it shut. The cases are going to be a bit of coin versus resale value. Everything else looks to be okay to use, and not abused too much outside of whoever didn't know how to reassemble it back together. The bog would have surly kept him from damaging it further. Also, at 48:58 you can see how the PO used a screwdriver to put the crank seal in and punched a divot in the seal boss. Will need to have that fixed too so air is also not leaking around the outer sealing edge of the new seal.
He didn't even give you a credit nor just a "Thank you". He definitely read your comment on the other video (that has 116 likes) and didn't say a thing. Shame.
You were right. I saw your comment on the other video & went back to rewatch it. Plain as day daylight thru that hole. Sealed crankcase is definitely necessary for a 2smoke to run correctly. Good eye
He didnt give you an ounce of credit, you literally fixes his bike and this dude made it look like he found the problem on his own (with bad acting might i add). Some people are rude lol
@@NjoyMoney I told him to pressure/vacuum test it on the first video he did..would of found this a month ago if he took my advice. He probably would've done the same taking mine also..why I hardly even bother with suggestions anymore.
Brother you are like a dog with a bone when it comes to solving an issue. I can really appreciate your determination to fix the bikes you are working on until the issue is resolved, like this CR250. That is not always an easy way to go, and most people would give up like the guy you bought it from.
Gota hand-it to you, Very Brave to take a deep dive into the guts of a motor. 1 minute the Bike is all together, 5 minutes later the entire motor is spread out on the floor. I admire your bravery and determination. I wish I had a buddy like you who could come over and guide me with my Dirt Bike work. Ha ha , I am sure all your subscribers would say the same thing.
Thanks man. I failed my 2 stroke exam by 2 questions but you are giving me the confidence & your experience to retake my test after 20 years. I have learned a lot from your vids and still love engine repair. ❤
Agreed, this 1995 is the best looking stock CR year. 1996 kawi had the purple similar to this year, and 1993 Yamahas also had a pink/purple accent with the white
Somebody put too long bolt in there, for sure! Use JB Weld, or get it tig welded, and just re tapped it, you dont need a new case, for sure !!! Then use shorter bolt, problem solved !! Thanks for not giving up on this, this crack sure was the problem, but you can fix it !! Try JB Weld first, clean it well, then re tapped it!!!!
That is why a pressure test is important. I do one on every two stoke I've rebuilt. I found bad gaskets and improper mainting surfaces doing a 5 minute pressure test
I have wondered why he does not have a leak down tester. I made my own, but you can buy them. Used on all my dirt bikes and road race 2 strokes (RZs and TZs).
true, but what if that bolt holded the pressure test. but as soon the engine warms up its start leaking. can be narly to figure out. but sure, having a pressure tester when working with these 2 strokes all day is a must.
As long as you get the piston in the right spot where air flows from intake through the exhaust, cap the exhaust, adapt a hose to intake and blow. You will hear and feel it, dish soapy water in spray bottle will find them. No leaks will be tight and can make a vacuum when drawed on.
Glad you found the problem Joe. As others have said, you should add a crankcase pressure test into your inital diagnostic workflow. Not necessarily universally straightforward like a compression test, but simple way of finding problems like this 👍
Good on you, Joe. That seal was clearly compromised. Driving them in, the cannot have distortions or... looking at the bolt and related hole in the case, appears to be blown out from incorrect bolt length at some point. Hope you can find a case half on the cheap.
Nice! I was worried with Joe putting out so much content lately that we wouldn't still get our Sunday morning joe ☕️ with Joe!!!!! But we got him… This one is a real nailbiter this bike…
It depends on what you are going to do with the bike but a cheap fix would be to change the bolt for a stud and JB Weld the stud into the hole. This is also a simple fix to fill the hole with weld and re-thread it - that would be the engineering solution.
I will give you one thing you never give up!!! Most people would give up just like everything you fix!! YOU ARE THE MAN!!! Wish I lived near you I would buy everything near me that people can't fix and hire you to fix all!!!
That crank seal was clearly bad just on inspection from the outside. I can't believe you didn't see that the first time you looked at it. There was a big obvious bend in it from someone beating on it. That was a far bigger leak than that bolt hole but both contributed.
Heat it up clean it with stainless brush v it out slightly and pre heat it again and weld it. Heck harbour freight sells alum rod too for propane torch.
You could also find a welder that does heliarc welding.He could add material to close up the hole and you could clean it up with a file or dremel.It's more work but it will be cheaper than a new case.
I just suggested the same, and then I found this comment. I think this would be a relatively easy fix. Plus, it would be a helluva lot cheaper, like you said.
I made basically the same comment above then found this one. Good to see others thinking outside the box a little. I've done SO many repairs on old engines - a LOT of marine stuff, and it's SO expensive (anything that goes near water, add a zero to the cost) so I've done a few weld / rethreads in my time. This should be a good one, get a good welder in there and it'll go fine
I have got to say, between you and the bearded mechanic, I've learned so much. I truly love watching these videos and I hope to be able to rebuild small engine machines shortly after I get home from my deployment. I'll continue to learn as I go about my adventure though
Awesome! You found the issue. It took a while but you found it through process on eliminating everything else that you gave a good going through. Good job
That hole is definitely supposed to be embossed. Probably somebody in the past used a bolt that was a little bit too long and tried bottoming it out and cracked it.
You can see the piece that's supposed to have the threads in it to hold the bolt inside the case is gone completely. The case is busted. They must have drilled and tapped it to take a longer bolt. He didnt mention it. Not sure he seen it. That's a big piece of aluminum and it's not in the case. He gets in a hurry to get his ass on the seat. I'm surprised the case isn't leaking. That bolt wasn't holding much. Gasket is just floating on that hole cause 2/3 the surface is gone. That's supposed to be a blind hole.
Admire your knowledge but especially your patience. Continuing to work the problem long after I'd have taken a sledgehammer or a match to the project and made it a planter or recycled it. IMAGINE what that would have been $$ in shop time? Owner could have bought a new Harley
These early 90’s to early 2000’s 250 all have exactly the same cases, only the cylinder porting was changed year to year. In my mind it’s tye best 250 engine they ever produced. Easy to weld that. I’ve saved these cr250 cases when they have holes in the bottom of the crankcase where the skirt of piston have spun and caught the bottom of the case as the rod rotates. Literally 1 inch holes in either case. Nice to see you using Service Honda as a parts reference too, great website.
this is exactly what i dont miss about being a automotive mechanic,,,TROUBLE SHOOTING!!!,,,dont get me wrong,, there is no better feeling than figuring out the problem,,,but when the customer expects the vehicle to be fixed yesterday ,,,and you sink many hours and possibly money into fixing the problem ,,,,,it can be a stressful ,thankless occupation ...terrific and again a very motivating and inspiring video,,now throw away that claw hammer and use a proper mechanics ball pein hammer ,,PLEASE !!!! :) ,,,best wishes from Australia
As you began tearing into the engine, i was saying "exhaust pipe" over and over in my head. And I wondered about the CD electonics, too - but the bolt and seal are quite a find!!!! I'd be tempted to replace that bolt with a stud (Loctited in) with a nut on the outside, if the threads aren't damaged. Looks like a bolt that was too long was installed. Looking forward to the next video! You are sticking with it!
Not necessarily that bolt helps hold on the top of the crank case on so it would be a hair uneven and would put more stress on the rest of the bolts and could possibly leak oil out. Buy a new crank case cover and fix it right instead of cheap fixing it. You could have more issues down the road.
I've had a similar issues. All you need to do is thread that bolt intimate the hole and take a punch and gently hammer the top of the crack so that it closes back down onto the threads, then just put a couple small spot welds over the crack. That will fix the case without having to replace it. You can do this without any more disassembly of the engine. This isn't that big of a problem. After that is fixed and the crank seal is replaced you should be good, but when your reassembling the engine put a nice bad if high temp oil resistant rtv in that hole before you thread the bolt in and you will never have any problems with it sucking air. Honestly you could just put rtv in that hole alone and it will fix it but just to be safe weld it. But don't waste money on a new case. Good luck my guy.
Joe - I like the storage unit where you keep your spare bikes. I'd love to see some more of your old machines and get your take on why you decided to keep them. Also might like to see how/where you sell the machines that you have fixed. Cheers!
Wishing I had more than two thumbs to turn upward. You worked hard on this one and your persistence worked out. Patty the previous owner didn't tell you that half the bolt hole broke off and he tried to fix it with a drill, a tap and a longer bolt. I wonder what he used to install the crank seal. Might as well check the other one before ordering parts. Ya never know lol.
a good welder can weld up the hole int the casting and you can treat the hole on the cover and install a short bolt to plug it dont use this one cover bolt...
I thought that crank seal looked bad last video. Good catch on that bolt hole though and being persistent. Ive worked on quite a few chainsaws and those crank seals can also be problematic. I catch them by pressurizing the crank case with a mityvac and spraying soapy water on them.
Someone commented on that hole in the last video. Would be nice to give that guy some credit…!!! I personally would have tried also swapping the cdi and stator-plate before starting tearing it down.
I’ve often wondered how you get your bikes in the truck, I’ve seen you unload a pile of em, but I think that’s the 1st time I’ve seen you load one. I’m too old & stiff to try that. Good job!
CLEAN YOUR PARTS BEFORE WORKING ON THEM! Drill it and heli-coil type repair. Maybe even JB weld on the inside of that bol hole at the very end before it goes into the engine. Some used too long a bolt on that and maybe used an impact wrench to install it. Personally I install all bolts by hand. You pretty much won't have that issue. Good find.
Yes joe that crankcase can be welded closed in that spot. The bolt.,or you'll half to get out of that split half crankcase to have it welded up for sure though.
Joe the next time you have this problem, do one thing BEFORE you do anything else. Spray some soapy water around the top end with the engine warm. See any bubbles, then you will know you're losing compression.
I’ve said this a dozen times on this channel. You need a leak down tester. This would have solved this problem in ten minutes. I leak down test every engine I open up after I do work to it. Doing a leak down test before you put everything back together will tell you if you have a bad gasket or seal or a hole in your crankcase because a meat head tried installing too long a screw etc.
2V, ambitious investigation leads to unfortunate answer! Bad bog is bad news but that's a very clean unit so you might break even? All the best excellent video series! Thanks!
I'd go ahead and get the case half TIG welded, and run a stud in that hole to eliminate a problem like that from happening again. A rare bad design from Honda there. Someone probably stuck too long a screw in that hole, only exacerbating the problem. Thanks Joe, look forward to hearing/seeing this thing get a good rip in out at the "land".
Do you ever sell these old bikes that you restore for reasonable prices? Been wanting a dirt bike but theyre so expensive now. And ive been watching you for a couple years and you always seem to get them up and running beautifully.
I would wait until it's running properly before declaring problem solved. 4:18 upper left shows a radiator shroud bolt spinning loose with the severe vibration of a 2-stroke LOL Also? You are ruining that beautiful garage floor... use a mat or a remnant of old carpet before it's too late. Keep the good videos coming, thanks Joe.
I love working on dirt bikes and street bikes. My location i am haveing trouble to just find one love the videos jo I really learn alot from you and relates to pretty much any atv dirtbike related things.
wow... ok, the hole is easy repair friend. It can be welded and retapped carefully if you have a good shop that does these things. literally fifteen min and done without stripping it down. I did hear you have other issues so maybe not?
Probably been said 50 times already but build you a leak down test for less than 30 bucks, I used a shader valve with a pressure gauge on the intake and adjustable freeze plug for the exhaust hole.
Not sure if I sound dumb but is the crank seal in the right way around? I thought the flat side went against the bearing and the open side catches the oil. I might be wrong, just saying. Great videos, love the channel.
Just get that welded my man! I just went to a welder this week. The next day, I could pick it up, for only €20,-. Was a problem just like this. Little hole in the crankcase.
Had the exact same problem in my kx65. I swapped everything and it would still bog extremely bad and burn a lot of oil. It would draw in so much air that it only really ran on choke. I tried everything you tried plus more. Ended up being 2 bad crank seals, and a crack in the case.
Great job!!! Great troubleshooting and some of the best camera work on the tube.. camera and editing has to be a big job, you make it look easy... thanks man PS I would get a stool for getting the bikes off the truck, but then again I’m older..
It will run fine with any size jet as long as it’s clean so the jets not the issue. Maybe sucking in air from the intake side or a dirty reed. Make sure your gas flow is clean through that tube.
First off, I like the videos and bike. i know you found major leak issues. But,I noticed it sounded a little worse when you changed the carburetor. I was just wondering when you swapped carbs .Did you change the slide and needle as well?
Did you just take The Carb/Heart outta That ROCKSTAR Bike????? Put it back Man!!! I'd love to have a Bike like that Again. (My last one was a CR250R, in 1987) , and I had a Huskvarna 500 4 Stroke Hill Climbing Beast!! I'm 55 now. Missing the ability to just buy a bike now... too broke, and Im a US Navy Vet..
I cannot believe he didn't see that not only did someone put too long of a bolt in the case that broke through the backside, but the bottom half of the case where the bolt threads through is also broke off (that's why the bolt was soo loose) - 44:09 - look at it compared to the one next to it, only half the threads are there
They're called the power valve acquewaiter rod arm worn out.,an the stem sleeve replaceable inserts is shot out. From due to excessive usage over the years of riding it hard to. Along with possible crankcase seals are split out.,or cracked engine.,or hole in the engine block somewhere from broken aluminum.
I would get a short grub screw the same thread, cover threads with jb weld and thread it into that hole, then run the bike minus 1 bolt in the clutch cover. I dont think it will leak
I just watched this video until you started tearing the motor down after you tried everything and my original thought was wondering if there was any fuel in the crankcase that'll cause all kinds of funky issues sometimes hard to start and other times it won't rub out just a thought.. and I was curious if the exhaust is the wrong size and seems like the original one had a lot fatter of a expansion chamber
According to used right side case half on ebay you need to weld that whole inside boss the bolt goes through. Then re drill and tap hole. Weld it closed on the inside too and round it off. It can be welded. Just have to disassemble and clean the case. It has to be heated to be welded.
I posted about this last video. I figured this was the problem. The oil from the clutch side and air is getting past the screw. No it's not supposed to be like that, someone put the wrong bolt in that hole and I'm sure used a rattlegun to put it back and punched a hole behind the boss.
Glad to see my theory was correct!
Edit: This bike is very clapped out sadly. If it were me, I would have someone weld it shut. The cases are going to be a bit of coin versus resale value. Everything else looks to be okay to use, and not abused too much outside of whoever didn't know how to reassemble it back together. The bog would have surly kept him from damaging it further. Also, at 48:58 you can see how the PO used a screwdriver to put the crank seal in and punched a divot in the seal boss. Will need to have that fixed too so air is also not leaking around the outer sealing edge of the new seal.
He didn't even give you a credit nor just a "Thank you".
He definitely read your comment on the other video (that has 116 likes) and didn't say a thing.
Shame.
You were right. I saw your comment on the other video & went back to rewatch it. Plain as day daylight thru that hole. Sealed crankcase is definitely necessary for a 2smoke to run correctly. Good eye
I just made a comment that someone pointed this out, now I know it was you
He didnt give you an ounce of credit, you literally fixes his bike and this dude made it look like he found the problem on his own (with bad acting might i add).
Some people are rude lol
@@NjoyMoney I told him to pressure/vacuum test it on the first video he did..would of found this a month ago if he took my advice. He probably would've done the same taking mine also..why I hardly even bother with suggestions anymore.
Brother you are like a dog with a bone when it comes to solving an issue. I can really appreciate your determination to fix the bikes you are working on until the issue is resolved, like this CR250. That is not always an easy way to go, and most people would give up like the guy you bought it from.
I think this is more the case the previous owner had too much determination and is what resulted in the issue found LOL.
Love it Joe, good video.
He’s looking for the bone because he has no clue how to fix things
Lot of the viewers tell him what to look for not him
Gota hand-it to you, Very Brave to take a deep dive into the guts of a motor. 1 minute the Bike is all together, 5 minutes later the entire motor is spread out on the floor. I admire your bravery and determination. I wish I had a buddy like you who could come over and guide me with my Dirt Bike work. Ha ha , I am sure all your subscribers would say the same thing.
Thanks man. I failed my 2 stroke exam by 2 questions but you are giving me the confidence & your experience to retake my test after 20 years. I have learned a lot from your vids and still love engine repair. ❤
90's cr's are the best looking bikes
1985s are better.
Agreed, this 1995 is the best looking stock CR year. 1996 kawi had the purple similar to this year, and 1993 Yamahas also had a pink/purple accent with the white
No way@@toolsixsixsix
1987 is the best for yz and cr
Somebody put too long bolt in there, for sure! Use JB Weld, or get it tig welded, and just re tapped it, you dont need a new case, for sure !!! Then use shorter bolt, problem solved !! Thanks for not giving up on this, this crack sure was the problem, but you can fix it !! Try JB Weld first, clean it well, then re tapped it!!!!
That is why a pressure test is important. I do one on every two stoke I've rebuilt. I found bad gaskets and improper mainting surfaces doing a 5 minute pressure test
I have wondered why he does not have a leak down tester. I made my own, but you can buy them. Used on all my dirt bikes and road race 2 strokes (RZs and TZs).
@@tzracer5215 Any suggestion of a good starter one that wont break the bank?
true, but what if that bolt holded the pressure test.
but as soon the engine warms up its start leaking.
can be narly to figure out.
but sure, having a pressure tester when working with these 2 strokes all day is a must.
As long as you get the piston in the right spot where air flows from intake through the exhaust, cap the exhaust, adapt a hose to intake and blow.
You will hear and feel it, dish soapy water in spray bottle will find them. No leaks will be tight and can make a vacuum when drawed on.
I agree with you 100%, a leak down test would have been a very fast and easy way to detect a very serious problem.
Glad you found the problem Joe. As others have said, you should add a crankcase pressure test into your inital diagnostic workflow. Not necessarily universally straightforward like a compression test, but simple way of finding problems like this 👍
Top ten favourite year of 2 strokes for sure❤
Good on you, Joe. That seal was clearly compromised. Driving them in, the cannot have distortions or... looking at the bolt and related hole in the case, appears to be blown out from incorrect bolt length at some point. Hope you can find a case half on the cheap.
In the first video of this series you pointed out a jb weld under the bottom end. Glad to see you got this one figured out. Goooo, Joe!
Nice! I was worried with Joe putting out so much content lately that we wouldn't still get our Sunday morning joe ☕️ with Joe!!!!! But we got him… This one is a real nailbiter this bike…
It depends on what you are going to do with the bike but a cheap fix would be to change the bolt for a stud and JB Weld the stud into the hole. This is also a simple fix to fill the hole with weld and re-thread it - that would be the engineering solution.
Looks like someone previously put a bolt that was too long in the side cover and tightened it down and the bolt broke through the back side..?
That's what it looks like to me also.
I will give you one thing you never give up!!! Most people would give up just like everything you fix!! YOU ARE THE MAN!!! Wish I lived near you I would buy everything near me that people can't fix and hire you to fix all!!!
Love the really large garden to test the bikes. It doesn't matter if the bike bogs, with greenery like that.
Your perseverance on this issue has earned my subscription....I'm many others agree.
23:42 that feeling that comes over you when you thought you had it this time but nope it’s still not fixed
I have been saying reeds all along. Guess that proves my theory wrong. Great work on a difficult problem.
I was voting for power valves being the problem. I was wrong
That crank seal was clearly bad just on inspection from the outside. I can't believe you didn't see that the first time you looked at it. There was a big obvious bend in it from someone beating on it. That was a far bigger leak than that bolt hole but both contributed.
Ol' Joe loves his dirtbikes. Fun little bike. Geez, imagine that, among your collection, you had spare parts.
Just weld this crankcase and drill new thread for bolt. It's not worth to replace it.
Agree 💯
How would weld aluminum homemade?
@@chernorizetzhrabar1313 TIG weld it. If you don't have a machine I am sure somebody around offers that service.
Heat it up clean it with stainless brush v it out slightly and pre heat it again and weld it. Heck harbour freight sells alum rod too for propane torch.
@@chernorizetzhrabar1313 TIG?
You could also find a welder that does heliarc welding.He could add material to close up the hole and you could clean it up with a file or dremel.It's more work but it will be cheaper than a new case.
I just suggested the same, and then I found this comment. I think this would be a relatively easy fix. Plus, it would be a helluva lot cheaper, like you said.
I made basically the same comment above then found this one. Good to see others thinking outside the box a little. I've done SO many repairs on old engines - a LOT of marine stuff, and it's SO expensive (anything that goes near water, add a zero to the cost) so I've done a few weld / rethreads in my time. This should be a good one, get a good welder in there and it'll go fine
I have got to say, between you and the bearded mechanic, I've learned so much. I truly love watching these videos and I hope to be able to rebuild small engine machines shortly after I get home from my deployment. I'll continue to learn as I go about my adventure though
Awesome! You found the issue. It took a while but you found it through process on eliminating everything else that you gave a good going through. Good job
That hole is definitely supposed to be embossed. Probably somebody in the past used a bolt that was a little bit too long and tried bottoming it out and cracked it.
100% - you can see its been apart before and you can see that whoever did it wasnt experienced.
Just weld it and retap it.
You can see the piece that's supposed to have the threads in it to hold the bolt inside the case is gone completely. The case is busted. They must have drilled and tapped it to take a longer bolt. He didnt mention it. Not sure he seen it. That's a big piece of aluminum and it's not in the case. He gets in a hurry to get his ass on the seat. I'm surprised the case isn't leaking. That bolt wasn't holding much. Gasket is just floating on that hole cause 2/3 the surface is gone. That's supposed to be a blind hole.
I admire your patience and analytical thinking. Way better than just changing parts
Admire your knowledge but especially your patience. Continuing to work the problem long after I'd have taken a sledgehammer or a match to the project and made it a planter or recycled it. IMAGINE what that would have been $$ in shop time? Owner could have bought a new Harley
These early 90’s to early 2000’s 250 all have exactly the same cases, only the cylinder porting was changed year to year. In my mind it’s tye best 250 engine they ever produced.
Easy to weld that. I’ve saved these cr250 cases when they have holes in the bottom of the crankcase where the skirt of piston have spun and caught the bottom of the case as the rod rotates. Literally 1 inch holes in either case.
Nice to see you using Service Honda as a parts reference too, great website.
this is exactly what i dont miss about being a automotive mechanic,,,TROUBLE SHOOTING!!!,,,dont get me wrong,, there is no better feeling than figuring out the problem,,,but when the customer expects the vehicle to be fixed yesterday ,,,and you sink many hours and possibly money into fixing the problem ,,,,,it can be a stressful ,thankless occupation ...terrific and again a very motivating and inspiring video,,now throw away that claw hammer and use a proper mechanics ball pein hammer ,,PLEASE !!!! :) ,,,best wishes from Australia
Great patience Joe.
Glad you stayed with it.
Learned a lot today.
As you began tearing into the engine, i was saying "exhaust pipe" over and over in my head. And I wondered about the CD electonics, too - but the bolt and seal are quite a find!!!! I'd be tempted to replace that bolt with a stud (Loctited in) with a nut on the outside, if the threads aren't damaged. Looks like a bolt that was too long was installed. Looking forward to the next video! You are sticking with it!
That sounds like a good idea actually 😊
Wow what a pain the butt. Good luck with the case I hope that fixes the issue.
You definitely got some devotion to fixing these bikes.
Cut the bolt down and get the whole welded up so it's capped. Really simple fix this
Not necessarily that bolt helps hold on the top of the crank case on so it would be a hair uneven and would put more stress on the rest of the bolts and could possibly leak oil out. Buy a new crank case cover and fix it right instead of cheap fixing it. You could have more issues down the road.
my old bike did the same thing it was a power valve, Watch your vids every day it gets better and better
Love learning from just watching what you do on these machines!! Looking forwforward for the next chapter on this bike!!
I've had a similar issues. All you need to do is thread that bolt intimate the hole and take a punch and gently hammer the top of the crack so that it closes back down onto the threads, then just put a couple small spot welds over the crack. That will fix the case without having to replace it. You can do this without any more disassembly of the engine. This isn't that big of a problem. After that is fixed and the crank seal is replaced you should be good, but when your reassembling the engine put a nice bad if high temp oil resistant rtv in that hole before you thread the bolt in and you will never have any problems with it sucking air. Honestly you could just put rtv in that hole alone and it will fix it but just to be safe weld it. But don't waste money on a new case. Good luck my guy.
It can definitely be welded I've done it. Not on a cr but tons of other bikes
Shove some JB weld in the hole and screw bolt in and let it cure. When pull the bolt out it should stop the leak.
Sweet glad she’s fixed
Not yet.
Joe you gotta build a big ass pole barn for your bikes!
Joe - I like the storage unit where you keep your spare bikes. I'd love to see some more of your old machines and get your take on why you decided to keep them. Also might like to see how/where you sell the machines that you have fixed. Cheers!
Well, at least you figured out the problem!
@@Six4691 who said he did
Wishing I had more than two thumbs to turn upward. You worked hard on this one and your persistence worked out. Patty the previous owner didn't tell you that half the bolt hole broke off and he tried to fix it with a drill, a tap and a longer bolt. I wonder what he used to install the crank seal. Might as well check the other one before ordering parts. Ya never know lol.
what an amazing find, the casting is clearly broken and partly missing where the bolt threats are...!
that oil seal looks skeetchy...
a good welder can weld up the hole int the casting and you can treat the hole on the cover and install a short bolt to plug it dont use this one cover bolt...
I thought that crank seal looked bad last video. Good catch on that bolt hole though and being persistent. Ive worked on quite a few chainsaws and those crank seals can also be problematic. I catch them by pressurizing the crank case with a mityvac and spraying soapy water on them.
Someone commented on that hole in the last video. Would be nice to give that guy some credit…!!!
I personally would have tried also swapping the cdi and stator-plate before starting tearing it down.
Great detective work Joe you're very persistent and everyone makes mistakes but when you do you put your hands up right away love your videos
I’ve often wondered how you get your bikes in the truck, I’ve seen you unload a pile of em, but I think that’s the 1st time I’ve seen you load one. I’m too old & stiff to try that. Good job!
Congrats, great diagnostic video of step by step too.
CLEAN YOUR PARTS BEFORE WORKING ON THEM! Drill it and heli-coil type repair. Maybe even JB weld on the inside of that bol hole at the very end before it goes into the engine. Some used too long a bolt on that and maybe used an impact wrench to install it. Personally I install all bolts by hand. You pretty much won't have that issue. Good find.
Yes joe that crankcase can be welded closed in that spot. The bolt.,or you'll half to get out of that split half crankcase to have it welded up for sure though.
Good work, with Great determination, everything can be fixed!
Joe the next time you have this problem, do one thing BEFORE you do anything else.
Spray some soapy water around the top end with the engine warm.
See any bubbles, then you will know you're losing compression.
I’ve said this a dozen times on this channel. You need a leak down tester. This would have solved this problem in ten minutes. I leak down test every engine I open up after I do work to it. Doing a leak down test before you put everything back together will tell you if you have a bad gasket or seal or a hole in your crankcase because a meat head tried installing too long a screw etc.
You have a Yamaha Mini Enduro!! We had the orange metallic version of that!! I learned to use a clutch on that when I was 8 years old.
2V, ambitious investigation leads to unfortunate answer! Bad bog is bad news but that's a very clean unit so you might break even? All the best excellent video series! Thanks!
I'd go ahead and get the case half TIG welded, and run a stud in that hole to eliminate a problem like that from happening again. A rare bad design from Honda there. Someone probably stuck too long a screw in that hole, only exacerbating the problem.
Thanks Joe, look forward to hearing/seeing this thing get a good rip in out at the "land".
Do you ever sell these old bikes that you restore for reasonable prices? Been wanting a dirt bike but theyre so expensive now. And ive been watching you for a couple years and you always seem to get them up and running beautifully.
I would wait until it's running properly before declaring problem solved.
4:18 upper left shows a radiator shroud bolt spinning loose with the severe vibration of a 2-stroke LOL
Also? You are ruining that beautiful garage floor... use a mat or a remnant of old carpet before it's too late.
Keep the good videos coming, thanks Joe.
I love working on dirt bikes and street bikes. My location i am haveing trouble to just find one love the videos jo I really learn alot from you and relates to pretty much any atv dirtbike related things.
Aluminum welding rod from harbor freight, use a map gas torch and rod and fill it in, redrill and tap. Or like you have found before JB Weld
wow... ok, the hole is easy repair friend. It can be welded and retapped carefully if you have a good shop that does these things. literally fifteen min and done without stripping it down. I did hear you have other issues so maybe not?
Very good job sir!
Weld up the hole and fit new seals.job done.
Keep at it. I'm sure you finally found the problem. Looking forward to seeing you make the repairs.
Probably been said 50 times already but build you a leak down test for less than 30 bucks, I used a shader valve with a pressure gauge on the intake and adjustable freeze plug for the exhaust hole.
I’m impressed you have bought in a old Suzuki like lt230 dual range or something
Love those bikes I love the 80 fives CR 500 the YZ 490 I like to find a cool ATV that be cool or build more psycho from ground up
Sick, I had a 1991.So fast, if it sounds like your not shifting while shifting, its running perfect.
You should build a kicker at that little transition behind your house, you’ll have a perfect run up.
JB WELD IT AND RETAP HOLE!!! Don’t even have to remove engine!!!
Not sure if I sound dumb but is the crank seal in the right way around? I thought the flat side went against the bearing and the open side catches the oil. I might be wrong, just saying. Great videos, love the channel.
You have really good audio. At 15 minutes in the 170 jet is not the answer. You got me thinking.....
Great sleuth work. J.B. Weld and send it!
Just get that welded my man!
I just went to a welder this week. The next day, I could pick it up, for only €20,-. Was a problem just like this. Little hole in the crankcase.
Had the exact same problem in my kx65. I swapped everything and it would still bog extremely bad and burn a lot of oil. It would draw in so much air that it only really ran on choke. I tried everything you tried plus more. Ended up being 2 bad crank seals, and a crack in the case.
Joe, love the channel, why didn’t we look at the 1998 case bolt hole area for comparison? It was right there and torn down right? Rich in California
Good work on analyzing where the problem lays, i wouldnt have expected this one (thought maybe the pipe). Big Up!
Great job!!! Great troubleshooting and some of the best camera work on the tube.. camera and editing has to be a big job, you make it look easy... thanks man PS I would get a stool for getting the bikes off the truck, but then again I’m older..
Two ramps is in his future !
Dude you stay at it. Good job.
It will run fine with any size jet as long as it’s clean so the jets not the issue. Maybe sucking in air from the intake side or a dirty reed. Make sure your gas flow is clean through that tube.
My favourite are 500cc Cr kx old school built by j Wagner awesome machine's
This has been like solving a murder mystery 😂. I hope you’re able to find some new cases or a way to fix the hole
First off, I like the videos and bike.
i know you found major leak issues.
But,I noticed it sounded a little worse when you changed the carburetor. I was just wondering when you swapped carbs .Did you change the slide and needle as well?
Nice looking bike, shouldn't be a long-term project
Did you just take The Carb/Heart outta That ROCKSTAR Bike????? Put it back Man!!! I'd love to have a Bike like that Again. (My last one was a CR250R, in 1987) , and I had a Huskvarna 500 4 Stroke Hill Climbing Beast!! I'm 55 now. Missing the ability to just buy a bike now... too broke, and Im a US Navy Vet..
I cannot believe he didn't see that not only did someone put too long of a bolt in the case that broke through the backside, but the bottom half of the case where the bolt threads through is also broke off (that's why the bolt was soo loose) - 44:09 - look at it compared to the one next to it, only half the threads are there
They're called the power valve acquewaiter rod arm worn out.,an the stem sleeve replaceable inserts is shot out. From due to excessive usage over the years of riding it hard to. Along with possible crankcase seals are split out.,or cracked engine.,or hole in the engine block somewhere from broken aluminum.
that’s cool mate long process but got there in the end nice one mate ❤ you got it
Nice find! That was an insane issue.
All the bikes you haul you should look into canyon dancer bar straps. They are worth it
Great "Never give up" attitude.
I would get a short grub screw the same thread, cover threads with jb weld and thread it into that hole, then run the bike minus 1 bolt in the clutch cover. I dont think it will leak
I'm so curious..once this is fixed...which bike do u like better...the 95..or the 98.?...keep us posted
Those 90’s models Need the Back pressure from the Silencer Packing ,
It is loud af.
yep sounds like a Cr 80
Backpressure??? The silencers are straight through. Last thing a 2 stroke needs is backpressure.
@@Nismo-gy3wz what you think a power valve does for a Two stroke , and why it’s in the Exhaust port 🥵
@@Nismo-gy3wzwhy is a 2stroke Pipe Coned ?
I found a case half on E-Bay for my 90 RM-250 for $50 and did this, or you could weld and tap it.
I just watched this video until you started tearing the motor down after you tried everything and my original thought was wondering if there was any fuel in the crankcase that'll cause all kinds of funky issues sometimes hard to start and other times it won't rub out just a thought.. and I was curious if the exhaust is the wrong size and seems like the original one had a lot fatter of a expansion chamber
According to used right side case half on ebay you need to weld that whole inside boss the bolt goes through. Then re drill and tap hole. Weld it closed on the inside too and round it off. It can be welded. Just have to disassemble and clean the case. It has to be heated to be welded.
Black JB Weld. Good as new!
Nice work again Joe, young Bob Ross of engines😂