Glad to hear that the brake fluid spitting is a product feature. I was worried i had some clogging in my brake lines on my k1100 rs. Thanks for sharing!
Haha ok I couldn’t have done mine without your video. But mine had sat for many years and was corroded, reservoir was dry with crusty bits and the piston was so stuck compressed air wouldn’t get it out. I had to remove the handgrip and the brake cylinder from the handlebars. The cylinder required light honing and I’m not done yet. But I’ve watched your vid and a few others to keep me on the right path and it will be back together soon. Thank you for a great vid!👍👍
Thanks Nigel, your video helped me to replace the brake piston on my 1996 R1100GS. I think BMW used exact the same on different models. Greetings from Belgium.
My front Left cqliper with abs brembo brakes it self...then i need to pill with the brake screen to take out little air.. then it want brakes itself.. then I need to this again after a while... do you know what it can be ?
Thanks for the vid. I have to replace the kit on my R1100RS. Bought from motorworks uk, £27 plus del'y plus VAT!! including the cylinder cap seal. No lube on the piston before reinsertion? Silicone oil supplied as part of my kit, or use brake fluid - which is less corrosive nowadays than in the past. BMW and Lurpak? Class.
Some of the front master-cylinders on the old K bike like this one came with defective master cylinders and there was a class action law suite to have them replaced by the manufacturer (not BMW) so there are two different models of cylinders. One an anodized cylinder and one a non-anodized cylinder. The anodized cylinder can be rebuilt, the non-anodized cylinder most likely cannot be rebuilt and that is because the cylinder has worn in an elliptical pattern and the new rebuild kit will fail in short order. That means that if your an unlucky one, you need to put up $509.00 dollars (USA) for a new Master cylinder.
Dobar dan,veliki pozdrav i hteo bih da pohvalim video koji ste postavili detaljno objasnjava sve potrebne korake,zamolio bih vas ako mozete da mi kazete dinenzije gumice koje ste zamenili na klip i prednje i zadnje
Nigel, I did this along with everything else having removed the ABS unit but I still have a brake light problem. The bushed bolt passing through the lever was seized and the hex head stripped so having removed it I replaced it with a new one. I also replaced the brake light switch. However despite thorough cleaning and lightly lubricating the faces I still have to push the lever forward to deactivate the brake light switch. There is a spring in the lever assembly which, I supposed, should put the unused lever in such a position that the brake light switch isn't touched? Have you or anyone else an idea on why, what my issue is?
Hi Lavoro. Yes I have the same with my lever. Just loosen the lever screw a fraction so the lever doesn’t bind. It worked for me and has never worked further loose.
@@NigelEaland I did wonder. Thank you Nigel. So in other words don't tighten the lever screw until it stops screwing in. Perhaps the reason why the new ones come with lock compound on?
@@Jovis8888 yes. It bothered me the first time as when I was taking it apart it was already loose. Then when I tightened it down the lever jammed. So I concluded to loosen by a quarter turn and then keep an eye on it. It never fell out so alls good.
Nigel, cycled over to my garage and pulled the machine out. It wasn't the pinch or fixing bolt/screw but the horizontal plane one on the front edge of the lever. I turned it until all the play, bar a tad, was present and now when the lever returns the switch is closed. I also noticed that within six months the bloody rebuilt front brake unit is leaking, leaving the same old nasty, grungy residue inside the rubber boot.
There’s a spring behind it. If I remember correctly I pressed the piston in with my finger and let it spring out enough that I could my finger tips on the edge of it.
Thanks, Nigel! I used your video along with a MAGURA Master Cylinder Repair Kit 06170258 to rebuild the master cylinder on my 1997 BWM R850R. The process went well, with the exception of during reassembly my not watching that the brake light switch contact was flat. I pinned the darn thing wide open causing a continuous brake light. Fixed it and now everything works perfectly. Thanks for helping me address and issue that has been bothering me for way too long.
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Glad to hear that the brake fluid spitting is a product feature. I was worried i had some clogging in my brake lines on my k1100 rs. Thanks for sharing!
Haha ok I couldn’t have done mine without your video. But mine had sat for many years and was corroded, reservoir was dry with crusty bits and the piston was so stuck compressed air wouldn’t get it out. I had to remove the handgrip and the brake cylinder from the handlebars. The cylinder required light honing and I’m not done yet. But I’ve watched your vid and a few others to keep me on the right path and it will be back together soon. Thank you for a great vid!👍👍
This was gold. Thank you for the video 👍
Very nicely done tutorial….thanks!
Спасибо Вам за ваши ролики! Они очень объективные, для тех, кто в этом мало понимает)
Thanks Sir)
An extremely useful tutorial. Thanks Nigel.
Thanks Nigel, your video helped me to replace the brake piston on my 1996 R1100GS. I think BMW used exact the same on different models.
Greetings from Belgium.
Thanks for watching and I’m glad it helped.
My front Left cqliper with abs brembo brakes it self...then i need to pill with the brake screen to take out little air.. then it want brakes itself.. then I need to this again after a while... do you know what it can be ?
Interesting tutorial. Thank you! Gives me confidence to repair my hand brake myself now after seeing this. :-)
Thanks for the vid. I have to replace the kit on my R1100RS. Bought from motorworks uk, £27 plus del'y plus VAT!! including the cylinder cap seal.
No lube on the piston before reinsertion? Silicone oil supplied as part of my kit, or use brake fluid - which is less corrosive nowadays than in the past.
BMW and Lurpak? Class.
Thank you very much for showing. Good video's you make.
Well done Nigel ! I have the same bike, 1995 LT (SE)
Nice job...and very well explain
Very nice video. I would appreciate a video with you flushing the system as well. Havent found any such yet.
I will be posting a video in the next few days. Thanks for watching.
Some of the front master-cylinders on the old K bike like this one came with defective master cylinders and there was a class action law suite to have them replaced by the manufacturer (not BMW) so there are two different models of cylinders. One an anodized cylinder and one a non-anodized cylinder. The anodized cylinder can be rebuilt, the non-anodized cylinder most likely cannot be rebuilt and that is because the cylinder has worn in an elliptical pattern and the new rebuild kit will fail in short order. That means that if your an unlucky one, you need to put up $509.00 dollars (USA) for a new Master cylinder.
That is just sick .
Good job
Dobar dan,veliki pozdrav i hteo bih da pohvalim video koji ste postavili detaljno objasnjava sve potrebne korake,zamolio bih vas ako mozete da mi kazete dinenzije gumice koje ste zamenili na klip i prednje i zadnje
Nigel, I did this along with everything else having removed the ABS unit but I still have a brake light problem. The bushed bolt passing through the lever was seized and the hex head stripped so having removed it I replaced it with a new one. I also replaced the brake light switch. However despite thorough cleaning and lightly lubricating the faces I still have to push the lever forward to deactivate the brake light switch. There is a spring in the lever assembly which, I supposed, should put the unused lever in such a position that the brake light switch isn't touched? Have you or anyone else an idea on why, what my issue is?
Hi Lavoro. Yes I have the same with my lever. Just loosen the lever screw a fraction so the lever doesn’t bind. It worked for me and has never worked further loose.
@@NigelEaland I did wonder. Thank you Nigel. So in other words don't tighten the lever screw until it stops screwing in. Perhaps the reason why the new ones come with lock compound on?
@@Jovis8888 yes. It bothered me the first time as when I was taking it apart it was already loose. Then when I tightened it down the lever jammed. So I concluded to loosen by a quarter turn and then keep an eye on it. It never fell out so alls good.
@@NigelEaland Great. Thanks Nigel.
Nigel, cycled over to my garage and pulled the machine out. It wasn't the pinch or fixing bolt/screw but the horizontal plane one on the front edge of the lever. I turned it until all the play, bar a tad, was present and now when the lever returns the switch is closed. I also noticed that within six months the bloody rebuilt front brake unit is leaking, leaving the same old nasty, grungy residue inside the rubber boot.
Can you help me how to install the rubber parts on the piston
It is not better than just swap the brake grom other motorcycle ?
Excellent video, one question, how do you get the piston out!
There’s a spring behind it. If I remember correctly I pressed the piston in with my finger and let it spring out enough that I could my finger tips on the edge of it.
@@NigelEaland Thank you!
Thanks, Nigel! I used your video along with a MAGURA Master Cylinder Repair Kit 06170258 to rebuild the master cylinder on my 1997 BWM R850R. The process went well, with the exception of during reassembly my not watching that the brake light switch contact was flat. I pinned the darn thing wide open causing a continuous brake light. Fixed it and now everything works perfectly. Thanks for helping me address and issue that has been bothering me for way too long.
I can laugh now but I did exactly the same with the switch on another occasion taking it apart and re assembling.
why didn't you say the price of replacement kit ò.ó
It was an outrageous price of £81.50.