I removed some metal. very, very small amount. You need to be careful. It could lead to problems if not. there are some excellent videos on how to do that. if you choose to try i would have an extra hammer and sear on hand just in case.
@@LivewithfreedombydandThanks. I’ve been looking for videos specific to the BLR but not come up with anything particularly informative yet. Having some spare trigger components on hand is a non-starter for me (we can’t get them here) so I might just polish them.
Thanks for this vid. May I ask exactly what spring did you replace? The extremely short one, maybe a quarter inch long , visible behind the sear. ? I removed from the bottom, didn't have to remove the push lever rod,, I just want to be sure. Thanks
I have this same rifle in the same caliber, Have you had any issues with it being hard to eject spent casings after you have shot it 2 or 3 times? I can sometimes barley operate the lever after shooting.
Never. It has always loaded and ejected very smoothly. It can even load empty brass from the magazine quickly, which I thought was impressive. Does your rifle have the same problems with different brands of ammo?
I experienced this same thing with new hornady 50 gr varmint ammo. I believe it's the case pressure being so high, or the chamber needs polished. The older lead tipped winchesters had no issues tho,,,,
No. I also worked the sear and hammer. I’m not sure the part number for the spring. I showed what package it came in and gave the thickness of the spring. If you call wolf and give the thickness you wish they will send you springs . Good luck.
With the hammer spring and push rod removed, you can slide the spring over a punch and insert it from the hole the hammer spring plunger threaded into. guide the spring with the punch into the hole in the sear that is made to hold the sear spring. Then use a small flat head screw driver to hold and compress the sear spring while you remove the punch. This is the tricky part. use the small screw diver to compress and guide the other end of the sear spring into the indentation for the sear spring that is on the aluminum carrier. I do this with the hammer installed and the sear engaged in the safety position. hope this makes sense
I have a 300 wsm takedown, constant problem of light primer strikes even with different brands and premium ammo, its a real shame its basically been like this right out of the box, just to unreliable to carry in alaskan bear country!
I had that problem once I found that it was some crud from a primer stuck in the area where the fire pin is. I would check that out. It has been a very reliable gun in mud ,snow and dust. thousands rounds through it. Also if you purchased it used it could have been taken a part and not put back together correctly. The bolt should be very close to flush when closed. It is ok if there is a little play in it. Another thing that could cause it is if the primers are not seated all the way in the case. They should be flush also or slightly seated bellow. Don’t give up. Let me know what you find out.
Just happened on this video of someone fixing/loosening their blr firing pin. Might be of use for you. th-cam.com/video/SlDUxQAh9UU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=naRCavIJHz2iIT06
Would have loved it if you had recorded the actual work.
Still, I appreciate what you’ve shared.
Very helpful video, thanks. When you say you worked the hammer and the sear, did you remove metal or did you just polish them?
I removed some metal. very, very small amount. You need to be careful. It could lead to problems if not. there are some excellent videos on how to do that. if you choose to try i would have an extra hammer and sear on hand just in case.
th-cam.com/video/Ljb9i4SaDcg/w-d-xo.html
@@LivewithfreedombydandThanks. I’ve been looking for videos specific to the BLR but not come up with anything particularly informative yet. Having some spare trigger components on hand is a non-starter for me (we can’t get them here) so I might just polish them.
Thanks for this vid. May I ask exactly what spring did you replace? The extremely short one, maybe a quarter inch long , visible behind the sear. ? I removed from the bottom, didn't have to remove the push lever rod,, I just want to be sure. Thanks
I just changed the one behind the sear.
I have this same rifle in the same caliber, Have you had any issues with it being hard to eject spent casings after you have shot it 2 or 3 times? I can sometimes barley operate the lever after shooting.
Never. It has always loaded and ejected very smoothly. It can even load empty brass from the magazine quickly, which I thought was impressive. Does your rifle have the same problems with different brands of ammo?
I experienced this same thing with new hornady 50 gr varmint ammo. I believe it's the case pressure being so high, or the chamber needs polished. The older lead tipped winchesters had no issues tho,,,,
Hi. So you just replace, (modified) the sear's spring? And what the Wolff part number, as Im in Canada?
No. I also worked the sear and hammer. I’m not sure the part number for the spring. I showed what package it came in and gave the thickness of the spring. If you call wolf and give the thickness you wish they will send you springs . Good luck.
How did you actually get the spring in position did you remove the trigger
With the hammer spring and push rod removed, you can slide the spring over a punch and insert it from the hole the hammer spring plunger threaded into. guide the spring with the punch into the hole in the sear that is made to hold the sear spring. Then use a small flat head screw driver to hold and compress the sear spring while you remove the punch. This is the tricky part. use the small screw diver to compress and guide the other end of the sear spring into the indentation for the sear spring that is on the aluminum carrier. I do this with the hammer installed and the sear engaged in the safety position. hope this makes sense
I have a 300 wsm takedown, constant problem of light primer strikes even with different brands and premium ammo, its a real shame its basically been like this right out of the box, just to unreliable to carry in alaskan bear country!
I had that problem once I found that it was some crud from a primer stuck in the area where the fire pin is. I would check that out. It has been a very reliable gun in mud ,snow and dust. thousands rounds through it. Also if you purchased it used it could have been taken a part and not put back together correctly. The bolt should be very close to flush when closed. It is ok if there is a little play in it. Another thing that could cause it is if the primers are not seated all the way in the case. They should be flush also or slightly seated bellow. Don’t give up. Let me know what you find out.
Send it back to Browning for warranty work?
They have a authorized service center in Anchorage at Wild West Guns.
Just happened on this video of someone fixing/loosening their blr firing pin. Might be of use for you.
th-cam.com/video/SlDUxQAh9UU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=naRCavIJHz2iIT06
Thanks for the info!! I will definitely look into wild west
... lots of steps missing
Video quality sucks