Great Choice in the BLR. I just don't run a massive scope on mine I like a compact low power scope or peep sight. I find the scopes get hung up on evergreens and you need caps for snow, sleet, and rain days just to keep them clear.
They use to make one with a pistol grip stock in a take down model, I can't seem to find that configuration on their website anymore. But it's my favorite lever gun because of the magazine that allows you to run any of your favorite cartridges, I think even 6.5 Creed-(pay)-more and the oldies but goodies like the 30-06, and my favorite .308.
I have two Browning blr one in 7mm-08 the other .308. The 7mm-08 is pistol grip stainless version the .308 is traditional straight grip walnut and blued. I used dnz medium height one piece base and ring setup, one silver, one matte black, leupold vx-2 3.5-10×40 scopes one silver, one matte black both have duplex reticals. Both have buttstock pouch and shell holders and nice browning shoulder slings. These rifles are both great 300 yard rifles that will handle elk, deer, moose and bear. I love the blr and will probably be buying a 7mm rem mag. Just to have a long action version, thanks for the videos!!!!
I have 2 as well & like yours, one with pistol grip the other straight. Both are in 30-06. The pistol grip one is the light weight whereas the other is the older steel receiver model. I scoped the pistol grip gun since there's no barrel band & being free floated there's more potential for long range accuracy. I put a Skinner peep on the straight stocked version making it a handy short range bush gun.
I'm considering this gun in 30-06. Any long-term owners have advice for me? I also intend to put a scope on it, but not sure if it's better atop the action like this one, or further forward. I want something in Takedown format that will fit into a smaller case, which is also good for hunting deer or elk up to 200yds. EDIT: I'll defer to the experts about the decorative barrel band, but is there any truth to the barrel harmonics & accuracy in that regard? I really like the band...
I had a conventional scope on my lever action, which was functional but subsequently, I found that a red dot works better. This is especially evident in terms of target acquisition.
Great rifle. I have a takedown in 308 with a Leupold 1-4 Pig Plex. Also fitted with an adjustable cheek riser from Bushbuck. Accuracy was initially poor at 1.5” @100yds. I fixed it by unscrewing the barrel from the ForeGrip and carefully sanded down all the rough wood from the factory (being careful not to touch the bedding pads). I combined this by dremelling out a gap in the top-inside of the Barrel Band, so that when replaced there was over 1mm of clearance from the barrel. This has tightened up accuracy to the level of a bolt gun for me to a repeatable 0.5” the modification was easy and well worth it, just take your time.
Hi Peter. Please tell me, why didn't you try to remove the Barrel Band completely? From which position did you shoot 0.5", did you use a bipod? I also start shopping for a BLR takedown. Thinking of one in 6.5 Credmoor, as I already have a bolt rifle and ammo in this caliber. But chances are that maybe I will get it in 308. Because they are hard to catch in Canada. Anyways, whichever caliber I get, I will try to make it shooting sub-MOA groups. So your input is of help. Thanks.
@@SergeZz Hi. I DID remove the barrel band and Dremmeled inside the top of the band so that there was a 2mm gap between the band and the barrel. My belief in doing this is to stop the barrel touching the band when it warms up and in doing so, stopping a harmonic change, which results in Point of Impact shifts. I shoot lying prone off a Javelin bipod. The 0.5” was also using a Rear Bag. My trigger hand pull was “Thumb-Up’ style and my thumb did NOT wrap over the rear grip. (Otherwise I seem to pull to the left). The more I shoot the rifle, the smoother the trigger gets. Hope this all helps.
Just put a deposit on a browning take down stainless in .308. The nearest gun shop of any size is a 4 hour drive from here and they don’t stock that particular scope. What can you recommend that won’t break the bank ? As it is the rifle is setting me back $2100.
I just bought this in the takedown version in 30-06. Can't wait to shoot it! Have to check this scope out. Aren't you going to lose zero on the scope if you have it mounted in that position rather than mounting above the barrel?
I'm considering this exact rifle & calibre. Any advice you'd have after owning it a while? Would you recommend I stay on the 30-06 path? I'm looking for something I'll scope but also want the iron sights for range use. I'm looking for a stalking rifle, breakdown, for deer/elk up to 200yds. I'd also like to know if you've had better luck with any specific ammo. I'm possibly going to order Federal Premium Vital Shok Nosler Partition, 165gr. Also in my list is Hornady Springfield Superformance 150gr. I'm a Canadian who just got his gun license & want to get a rifle I'll keep, something I can modify & have multipurpose. Takedown imperative, since I'll have a smaller case meant for takedown. I'm considering the Sako S20 Hunter, better for long distance I'm sure, also takedown, but I want a lever action. Wanted to buy American, but found out the BLR is made in Japan - which is a compliment to its quality no doubt, but the Sako is Finnish so here we are, lol. Would also be great to know the total length of the rifle when it's taken down - the total length of both pieces side by side, unassembled. I'm looking at a takedown rifle case that's 36.5" long, 14.5" wide & 6" deep. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!
@@NunchucksHabit Well, that’s a lot of questions and unfortunately I can’t answer all of them, but I chose 30-06 because it’s still the most popular and very easy to find and it’s got enough range and power for deer, elk, black bear, even smaller brown bear. Love lever action…fast and fun to shoot. Only drawback is a little trickier when you’re lying prone. 150-200 yds should be no problem with experience. Still looking for scope for mine so can’t comment about that but best for this gun would be one that stays on the barrel after takedown so you don’t lose your zero. Love this rifle, really well built. Sako S20 looks great and would probably give you better accuracy farther out for sure, but if you want lever action and takedown, hard to beat this one. I know there is one company that is working on a 10 round mag for this as well. May or may not happen.
I just bought a new BLR in 308 and the first 5 shots of new ammo only 2 went off. light primer strikes. doing some research online Thousands people with the same issue. I got 3 answers. Grease in the bolt assembly , Timing issue, or head space issue. One guy said to take the stock off and soak the action in some kind of solvent for 24 hrs then blow it out with air gun. not what I want to do with a brand new gun. So I used some carb cleaner and a air hose. Still having misfires. I loaded 5 empty casings with federal 210 primers 4 went off. loaded 5 with WLR primers only 3 went off. 5 with CCI 200 and 250's none went off.. very little dent in the primer. The hammer hits the back of the bolt face and stops and the firing pin still has to travel another 1/8 of an inch before it touches the primer, I don't know how any rounds go off ? no solid contact between the hammer firing pin and the primer. I put all the casings that didn't go off in the BLR in my rem 700 bolt gun and they all went off no problem ... Put the BLR in my chest freezer overnight the first 6 factory shells didn't go off the 7th one did. Iv been reloading for close to 50 yrs and never seen anything like this. Don't trust this gun for anything its junk. This is the only brand new gun out hundreds that I had to spend days trying to get it to fire every time, Still cant figure it out. Its going back..
Considering the relatively small production numbers of the BLR your claim of thousands of owners is crud. Remove the bolt, disassemble it and clean out the packing grease then reassemble. You likely have a sticky firing pin which isn't going to be solved by sparing some canned solvent into the receiver or putting it into the freezer.
@@SurmaSampo Its a brand new gun .. Shouldn't have to tare it apart to get it to fire.. If you remove the bolt the gun has to be sent back to Browning to have the action retimed.. that will take mounts. The gun shop had no problem taking it back.. problem solved..
@@Hollywood41642 The timing is just alignment of the rack and pinion when reassembling. It does not need to go back to browning to be put back together unless the gun store staff are mechanically incompetent. Glad you got it resolved but I suspect that they will just clean the packing grease and solvent residue out of the bolt, re-oil and sell it to someone else.
@@SurmaSampomost gunsmiths will not touch the action of a BLR. It’s extremely complicated and the timing is NOT simple. Nobody should ever take the action apart on the BLR.
@@northtoalaska8058 It is no more complicated than replacing any number of parts on a car and people do that all the time. Fun fact, I just looked up the timing process for a BLR and it is far more simple than a clutch plate kit replacement on a manual gearbox. I have poor hand eye coordination and zero talent and I have stripped down and reassembled laptops more complex than this. Any gunsmith that can't reassemble a BLR should find another job. It's 4 moving parts. Gun companies just assume their customers are retarded and don't want to get sued by them. It is the same reason why CZ took away user barrel changes on the 600 series bolt actions. Retards couldn't follow a single page of instructions and fuck up their guns.
... REALITY CHECK: since when is 1.5 MOA not good enough for a lever action big game hunting rifle? ... and what's with the culvert pipe umpteen power scopes on light hunting guns? ... but what do I know? ... I spend more time in the bush actually hunting than on youtube
The "music," if you can call it that, is distracting and annoying. Do you actually have nothing to say, or is it to keep us from thinking about what you're saying?
Yes! I've been running a Browning BLR in 7mm-08 with a 3-9x40 for a few years, and love it. Very versatile, good accuracy, and fun to shoot.
Can I still find the same gun you have ?
I just ordered a 2-7 crossfire for my Henry 357X. Looking forward to it!
Great Choice in the BLR. I just don't run a massive scope on mine I like a compact low power scope or peep sight. I find the scopes get hung up on evergreens and you need caps for snow, sleet, and rain days just to keep them clear.
They use to make one with a pistol grip stock in a take down model, I can't seem to find that configuration on their website anymore. But it's my favorite lever gun because of the magazine that allows you to run any of your favorite cartridges, I think even 6.5 Creed-(pay)-more and the oldies but goodies like the 30-06, and my favorite .308.
I have two Browning blr one in 7mm-08 the other .308. The 7mm-08 is pistol grip stainless version the .308 is traditional straight grip walnut and blued. I used dnz medium height one piece base and ring setup, one silver, one matte black, leupold vx-2 3.5-10×40 scopes one silver, one matte black both have duplex reticals. Both have buttstock pouch and shell holders and nice browning shoulder slings. These rifles are both great 300 yard rifles that will handle elk, deer, moose and bear. I love the blr and will probably be buying a 7mm rem mag. Just to have a long action version, thanks for the videos!!!!
Do you prefer pistol or straight grip on the BLR?
I have 2 as well & like yours, one with pistol grip the other straight. Both are in 30-06. The pistol grip one is the light weight whereas the other is the older steel receiver model. I scoped the pistol grip gun since there's no barrel band & being free floated there's more potential for long range accuracy. I put a Skinner peep on the straight stocked version making it a handy short range bush gun.
The BLR stainless still has an aluminum receiver, only the barrel is stainless.
Ryan (I think) scoped my Dad's browning BLR with a gen 1 Viper PST years ago. I think Jimmy got the idea from him!!
It's not a bad guess... 😉
I'm considering this gun in 30-06. Any long-term owners have advice for me? I also intend to put a scope on it, but not sure if it's better atop the action like this one, or further forward. I want something in Takedown format that will fit into a smaller case, which is also good for hunting deer or elk up to 200yds.
EDIT: I'll defer to the experts about the decorative barrel band, but is there any truth to the barrel harmonics & accuracy in that regard? I really like the band...
I had a conventional scope on my lever action, which was functional but subsequently, I found that a red dot works better. This is especially evident in terms of target acquisition.
Talley says their rings don't need lapping. Perhaps the receiver screw holes were slightly off.
The front mounts are put on backwards too
Im here, coffee ready!
🙌
Great rifle. I have a takedown in 308 with a Leupold 1-4 Pig Plex. Also fitted with an adjustable cheek riser from Bushbuck. Accuracy was initially poor at 1.5” @100yds. I fixed it by unscrewing the barrel from the ForeGrip and carefully sanded down all the rough wood from the factory (being careful not to touch the bedding pads). I combined this by dremelling out a gap in the top-inside of the Barrel Band, so that when replaced there was over 1mm of clearance from the barrel. This has tightened up accuracy to the level of a bolt gun for me to a repeatable 0.5” the modification was easy and well worth it, just take your time.
Hi Peter. Please tell me, why didn't you try to remove the Barrel Band completely? From which position did you shoot 0.5", did you use a bipod? I also start shopping for a BLR takedown. Thinking of one in 6.5 Credmoor, as I already have a bolt rifle and ammo in this caliber. But chances are that maybe I will get it in 308. Because they are hard to catch in Canada. Anyways, whichever caliber I get, I will try to make it shooting sub-MOA groups. So your input is of help. Thanks.
@@SergeZz Hi. I DID remove the barrel band and Dremmeled inside the top of the band so that there was a 2mm gap between the band and the barrel. My belief in doing this is to stop the barrel touching the band when it warms up and in doing so, stopping a harmonic change, which results in Point of Impact shifts. I shoot lying prone off a Javelin bipod. The 0.5” was also using a Rear Bag. My trigger hand pull was “Thumb-Up’ style and my thumb did NOT wrap over the rear grip. (Otherwise I seem to pull to the left).
The more I shoot the rifle, the smoother the trigger gets. Hope this all helps.
Awesome Setup !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just put a deposit on a browning take down stainless in .308. The nearest gun shop of any size is a 4 hour drive from here and they don’t stock that particular scope. What can you recommend that won’t break the bank ? As it is the rifle is setting me back $2100.
... did removing the barrel band actually improve the accuracy of your Browning BLR???
Dr Brown had one in Back To The Future 3. Some scope.
I just bought this in the takedown version in 30-06. Can't wait to shoot it! Have to check this scope out. Aren't you going to lose zero on the scope if you have it mounted in that position rather than mounting above the barrel?
I'm considering this exact rifle & calibre. Any advice you'd have after owning it a while? Would you recommend I stay on the 30-06 path? I'm looking for something I'll scope but also want the iron sights for range use. I'm looking for a stalking rifle, breakdown, for deer/elk up to 200yds. I'd also like to know if you've had better luck with any specific ammo. I'm possibly going to order Federal Premium Vital Shok Nosler Partition, 165gr. Also in my list is Hornady Springfield Superformance 150gr.
I'm a Canadian who just got his gun license & want to get a rifle I'll keep, something I can modify & have multipurpose. Takedown imperative, since I'll have a smaller case meant for takedown. I'm considering the Sako S20 Hunter, better for long distance I'm sure, also takedown, but I want a lever action. Wanted to buy American, but found out the BLR is made in Japan - which is a compliment to its quality no doubt, but the Sako is Finnish so here we are, lol.
Would also be great to know the total length of the rifle when it's taken down - the total length of both pieces side by side, unassembled. I'm looking at a takedown rifle case that's 36.5" long, 14.5" wide & 6" deep.
Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!
@@NunchucksHabit Well, that’s a lot of questions and unfortunately I can’t answer all of them, but I chose 30-06 because it’s still the most popular and very easy to find and it’s got enough range and power for deer, elk, black bear, even smaller brown bear. Love lever action…fast and fun to shoot. Only drawback is a little trickier when you’re lying prone. 150-200 yds should be no problem with experience. Still looking for scope for mine so can’t comment about that but best for this gun would be one that stays on the barrel after takedown so you don’t lose your zero. Love this rifle, really well built. Sako S20 looks great and would probably give you better accuracy farther out for sure, but if you want lever action and takedown, hard to beat this one. I know there is one company that is working on a 10 round mag for this as well. May or may not happen.
@@gcruishank9663 Appreciate your advice, much appreciated!
A piece of me dies inside every time I see rings set like that in the same direction.
Why?
@@JEJAK5396 they aren’t supposed to be like that. The front one should be flipped.
@@PredatorSlayer41 Ok, why?
I’ve got the same rifle and same scope but it’s chambered in 325
I’d like to see the accuracy and trigger pull weight of this rifle.
... consider yourself lucky if your new BLR trigger pull is less than 7 pounds outa the box
270
Beautiful!
I have the same rifle! What ammo are you shooting?
Talley specifically says not to lap them
You want to sell that rifle?
I just bought a new BLR in 308 and the first 5 shots of new ammo only 2 went off. light primer strikes. doing some research online Thousands people with the same issue. I got 3 answers. Grease in the bolt assembly , Timing issue, or head space issue. One guy said to take the stock off and soak the action in some kind of solvent for 24 hrs then blow it out with air gun. not what I want to do with a brand new gun. So I used some carb cleaner and a air hose. Still having misfires. I loaded 5 empty casings with federal 210 primers 4 went off. loaded 5 with WLR primers only 3 went off. 5 with CCI 200 and 250's none went off.. very little dent in the primer. The hammer hits the back of the bolt face and stops and the firing pin still has to travel another 1/8 of an inch before it touches the primer, I don't know how any rounds go off ? no solid contact between the hammer firing pin and the primer. I put all the casings that didn't go off in the BLR in my rem 700 bolt gun and they all went off no problem ... Put the BLR in my chest freezer overnight the first 6 factory shells didn't go off the 7th one did. Iv been reloading for close to 50 yrs and never seen anything like this. Don't trust this gun for anything its junk. This is the only brand new gun out hundreds that I had to spend days trying to get it to fire every time, Still cant figure it out. Its going back..
Considering the relatively small production numbers of the BLR your claim of thousands of owners is crud.
Remove the bolt, disassemble it and clean out the packing grease then reassemble. You likely have a sticky firing pin which isn't going to be solved by sparing some canned solvent into the receiver or putting it into the freezer.
@@SurmaSampo Its a brand new gun .. Shouldn't have to tare it apart to get it to fire.. If you remove the bolt the gun has to be sent back to Browning to have the action retimed.. that will take mounts. The gun shop had no problem taking it back.. problem solved..
@@Hollywood41642 The timing is just alignment of the rack and pinion when reassembling. It does not need to go back to browning to be put back together unless the gun store staff are mechanically incompetent.
Glad you got it resolved but I suspect that they will just clean the packing grease and solvent residue out of the bolt, re-oil and sell it to someone else.
@@SurmaSampomost gunsmiths will not touch the action of a BLR. It’s extremely complicated and the timing is NOT simple. Nobody should ever take the action apart on the BLR.
@@northtoalaska8058 It is no more complicated than replacing any number of parts on a car and people do that all the time.
Fun fact, I just looked up the timing process for a BLR and it is far more simple than a clutch plate kit replacement on a manual gearbox. I have poor hand eye coordination and zero talent and I have stripped down and reassembled laptops more complex than this.
Any gunsmith that can't reassemble a BLR should find another job. It's 4 moving parts.
Gun companies just assume their customers are retarded and don't want to get sued by them. It is the same reason why CZ took away user barrel changes on the 600 series bolt actions. Retards couldn't follow a single page of instructions and fuck up their guns.
What height scope rings do you use with the 44mm?
Depends on how big the tube of the riflescope is! Let us know what you're planning on mounting and we can help you pick out some rings that will work!
Does Browning make a large loop for their BLRs?
The BLR is no longer in production.
Wrong. Made in Japan currently.@@SurmaSampo
No large loops, maybe aftermarket.
@@bp814 Then why did Browning announce they were ceasing production of the BLR 2 years ago? I sure hope they keep making them.
WOW!
... REALITY CHECK: since when is 1.5 MOA not good enough for a lever action big game hunting rifle? ... and what's with the culvert pipe umpteen power scopes on light hunting guns? ... but what do I know? ... I spend more time in the bush actually hunting than on youtube
The "music," if you can call it that, is distracting and annoying. Do you actually have nothing to say, or is it to keep us from thinking about what you're saying?
I put a scope on a lever gun, because it offends the supposed traditionalists