2015 Volvo S60 4 Cylinder Oil Change
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- First, I'm NOT a mechanic. I'm just an average Joe that likes to do a little work on my own cars when I can to try and save a buck or two. This video is just meant to help those like me figure out how to do an oil change on these new Volvo's that don't have a dipstick to check the oil level like on a "conventional" engine. It turned out to be pretty easy, and I'm sure if I can do it, so can you.
Here are all the instructions and tools required in writing. You'll see these steps in the video, but sometimes it's helpful to have something to print out if needed as you go thru it that first couple of times.
2015 Volvo S60 T5 Premier Drive-E 2.0 liter 4 Cylinder
Tools needed:
T30 Torx bit
T40 Torx bit
Something to put the torx bits in, screwdriver handle, ratchet, etc
17mm socket or wrench (for oil drain plug)
86 mm oil filter removal tool
3/8 ratchet for oil filter removal tool
Short (maybe 3 inch) 3/8 inch extension
Also needed:
Volvo Oil Filter kit part number 31372212
Paper towels
Large funnel
Light to see what you’re doing
6 quarts of Castrol 5W-30 full synthetic extended duration oil. You’ll only use 5.5 quarts, so you can save the other half of the 1 quart bottle for the next oil change.
1 - Set e-Brake
2 - get car jacked up or on ramps
3 - remove air dam - 8 screws. Need T30 Torx
4 - position catch basin and remove drain plug - 17 mm, let oil drain, about 5 minutes
5 - put drain plug back with new crush washer
6 - Drain oil filter - T40 Torx
7 - remove filter housing (86mm removal tool)
8 - replace filter in housing, change out all seals
9 - put completed filter back in car. Don’t forget to wipe everything down first
10 - reinstall air dam
11 - remove jacks if you have jacks
12 - fill car with oil - 5.4 to 5.5 quarts
13 - run car for about 1 minute and back down from ramps if using ramps
14 - let car sit for 2 or 3 minutes
15 - check oil level - car should be on level ground
Put Key in, hold down start until all lights and radio come on, push OK once, scroll to oil level, press OK to select Oil Level. It will only show OK, under filled, or overfilled.
16 - visually inspect for oil leaks, close the hood, and make a note of when you changed the oil
17 - reset oil life/service interval
Key in dash
Press OK Toggle to get service status
Press and hold reset
Press and hold OK
Press and release start
Press and hold start
Keep holding all 3 until the 'I" button first appears (about 10 seconds) AND IMMEDIATELY LET GO OF ALL 3! (or at lease reset + start) (if you do not let go soon enough then you miss the "window") Release start if you have not already (if car is still on then turn it off but it should be off) Then leave car alone for 3-5 minutes before you do anything else.
You can check your work by:
OK
toggle to Service Status
OK
You should see time and miles set to 12 months and 10000+ miles
This video is wicked, very informative and useful explanations as you went along. I'm confident after watching this. Loving the techniques to remove the O-Rings. Got my blooming oil change to do
Outstanding Video and thanks for including all of the tools and items that were used in completing this oil change.. AWESOME!
Concise, informative and practical - very well done, thanx!
I'm going to start servicing my car myself and save my well earned - you've really helped me, thanx again!
Oh yeah, I've got pollen filter (cabin filter) and front brakes to do as well.
Thank you! I'm glad this was able to help you. I love your user photo, by the way.
Thank you for a great video.
FYI, you have to drive the car for 20 miles or engine off for 2 hours before you can check the level again....
From the manual:
NOTE
• The system cannot detect changes in
the oil level immediately. The vehicle
must be driven approximately 20 miles
(30 km) or have been parked on level
ground with the engine off for 2 hours
before the oil level reading will be correct.
• If the necessary conditions are not met
for checking the oil level electronically
(time interval after the engine was
switched off, if the vehicle is parked on
an incline, etc.), Not available will be
displayed. This does not indicate a
problem with the oil level sensor.
According to the dealership when I asked them, for major changes such as an overfill or under-fill situation, it would detect that almost immediately. That's primarily what we're interested in, and mostly just making sure we don't overfill. If you use a specific amount of oil to fill each time, you should never have to worry about that though.
It's helpful to know what size wrenches etc. you'll need before getting into things. Thanks! Nicely done.
I did not know you don’t want it to be all maxed out, so thank you
Aces! Good info, and the service reset procedure works on a 2017 V60 T6 as well. Thank you!
Thank you for this video Floyd. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into making it.
Very informative!!!
Thanks for the video. I want to ditto the other comment on using jack stands as opposed to a floor jack. I just purchased a Volvo with this engine and plan to do the oil changes myself. This was helpful.
I like that so many people are safety conscious these days so thanks for that! I really want to get a set of ramps for it so I can just drive up on it, and even for those, I prefer to have jack stands as a backup too. Hope you enjoy your Volvo as much I as enjoy mine. I also have a 2009 S60 with 171,000 miles on it that is still in perfect condition. My daughter will inherit that one in a little less than a year, and with proper maintenance, she should be able to double that mileage.
Nice and clear.Thank you for this your contribution. Also diesel\ fuel filter and brake pad should be usefull. Ciao
I just got the same car . look forward to seeing you doing more vids !
Thank you Floyd! Just completed this on my 2015 Volvo S60. Video was extremely helpful ! Got all the right parts and tools. Keep up the great work! Much love from South FL!
Thanks Jesse. Glad that helped out. I think we're going to start seeing a lot more engines like this with no dipstick and no manual way to check the oil level or see what it looks like.
@frank o'brien LOVE IT!
I was reading the other day that Volvo custom-made 0W20 Oil for Drive-E vehicles but since it's not available in the US Market dealerships just use the 5W30.. the oil that Volvo made for the Drive-E is 0W20 rbs0-2ae it's not any 0W20 it has to meet the volvo vcc rbs0-2ae requirements.
Hello, I just bought a volvo s60 2017 with a 120 hp d2 engine and 61000 km on the odometer. Thank you for telling me where the fuel filter is and the mileage at which to change the timing belt.
Thanks for the great video! Now if you could make a video on how to change the transmission fluid, that would be wonderful! Thanks again!
I don't have a reason to change it on this car yet so it might be a while. I do have fluid ordered for my 2009 and plan on changing that when it arrives. It's very easy for that car I hear.
Very nice!
Thanks a lot!
Special thanks for torx sizes and etc!
Hello Floyd, I have a 2015.5 Volvo S60 Drive E Premier plus, I bought it used at 29,000 Km in 2017, the mileage that I got now is 103,000 Km. I changed the oil at 8,000 Km interval, I don't do it by myself, although I could. Recently, about 2 weeks ago, I got the message on the dash saying my oil level is low and to top up 1 Quart (1 liter) of engine oil. I bought 1 liter of the engine oil that Volvo recommends in the manual (the same one you used in your video) and top up about 800 ml to 850 ml, checked the oil on the dash and it said OK. At the time when I topped up I had 3,900 Km from the last oil change. Like I said, this never happened before, this is the first time. I read on internet some horror stories about the same year engines (2015 Drive E engine/4 Cylinders) having issues with oil consumption and had the piston rings replaced to solve the issue. Have you heard something about this issue? Have you had your oil level dropped and had to top up? 1 liter of 5,7 liters is 18%, a lot in my opinion, I am wondering if my mechanic put the right volume of oil in the engine when he replaced the oil. Now I check the oil level every week. Thanks
Yes, I have heard of that exact issue and watch for the same issue to occur on my car too. I hope I get lucky enough that it doesn't. Volvo is very quite about it, but if it happens, there are only 2 things you can do that I'm aware of. One is to live with it and add oil as needed, which may only work for a while since the issue can cause engine failure in some cases. Two is to have the pistons and rings replaced. If the cylinder walls get scored, then engine replacement is needed. You may want to call Volvo and ask to have the engine tested and push as hard as possible for out of warranty repair. Might not work, but you can at least try. It's sad that this happens. I love these cars and want to buy another Volvo after the one I have, but if they keep having issues, I'm getting a Toyota.
@@MIFixItDad Yes, I do like Volvos. I thought to do nothing as of yet and see if it happens again. Perhaps I shouldn't wait at all, I bought the vehicle from a Volvo dealership here in town. I will go back to them and have an oil consumption test done and I will see, who knows I may be lucky and the leak will be within their Volvo limits. I will definitely book for an oil consumption test at the local Volvo dealership. I will let you know what will happen, if you'd like. Thank you.
Oil consumption can be caused by bad oil control rings, worn intake guides, or even a head gasket that allows the oil to migrate into the water cooling system, or drip down the block. Doesn't sound like you're dumping it on the ground, so must be getting burned internally (if not going into the radiator). A good first step would be to pull the spark plugs and see if any don't have a slight gray color, since oil getting burned in a cylinder will usually coat the effected spark plug. There are oil additive products you can try such as BG MOA which can increase mileage between adding a quart, but will have to factor in the price of each to find out which is more cost effective.
@@rv9flyer13brotary9 thanks
Thank you so much 🙏🏻 you make very beautiful video I really like it 👌🏻well done bro
Really solid video! I appreciate you
Excellent tutorial, have you had any expensive issues/quirks with the Drive-E other than your posted videos? I'm in the market for a new Volvo, considering 2017 T5 FWD but all this new tech scares me coming from the classic T5. Certainly seems less intuitive for the weekend Volvo hobbyist like ourselves. Where's my dipstick!? Fellow Michigander - hello from Grand Rapids
It's not just Volvo with the disappearing dipsticks and all the tech. You can find it on most brands these days. I haven't had any troubles so far. My biggest complaints is there isn't a lot of room to put stuff. My phone doesn't sit anywhere easily so I got a CD tray mounted holder that works really well. Trunk space is a bit limited for trips, but I just got a cargo carrier and hitch that solved that issue. Overall, still absolutely love the car. I got this car on 28th street in GR too!
@@MIFixItDad Very nice! Trunk space is definitely a downside in the S60. Looking at one with 46k tomorrow, out of warranty but a decent local import dealer. Not a whole lot of consumer review info out there on these newer models so appreciate your posts and experience. If you have any tips/cautions let me know!
Just a few comments on oil changes. The o-rings should have some oil applied to them before installation. Not much, just enough to make them slippery.
The filter canister should be cleaned out before reinstalling with a new filter. If you don’t have a solvent tank, use brake clean to spray it out and wipe with a lint-free rag.
Also, the drain bolt and filter both have a tightening torque spec. It seemed in your video that the filter wrench was slipping on the filter canister. You might want to get a better filter wrench and check the torque.
My XC70 didn’t have the drain in the filter canister, so I doubt I will use it in my XC60. If you wait to change the filter until after the oil cools the filter canister will not leak so much oil during removal.
You might also mention that for the electronic oil level to work properly the car must be level (off the jack stands or jack). I severely miss the dipstick.
The newer versions of that engine have a standpipe in the drain plug for getting the oil level correct. A simple oil change is becoming more and more onerous when a simple dipstick would suffice.
I like the service reset. I hope it works on my 2017 XC60.
Thanks for the reply. I do put oil on the o-ring around the canister, just not the one for the canister drain. It usually gets some just from what's on my hands, but that's not intentional. My filter wrench is indeed loose. It's a cheapie and has always been that way. It doesn't slip so I just let it go. On this one, the canister will turn until it hits the stop, then you can't turn turn it any more. I never tighten it beyond that. The o ring provides the mechanical seal and there are so many threads to get it all the way on, it could never come off. I should indeed be torquing the drain plug though. I've just done it so many times on my 2009, and the specs are the same, I just know by feel and can get it pretty darn close. There is a range from min to max that is acceptable. Max of course so you don't strip the threads, and min so it doesn't fall out. To do it the right way, it should always be torqued though, so I have to agree with you wholeheartedly. I had in my head to mention about the level spot for checking the oil too and just missed it. There is so much to remember when making one of these videos I inevitably miss something. Good catch though. Hopefully people understand, the same as with a car that has a dipstick, it has to be level to get a good reading. I'm right there with you on the dipstick too. I don't like not having one. It's simple, reliable, and cheap.
Thanks again! Hope you enjoy the XC60. I have a friend who's looking at a 2019 one of those for his wife in that beautiful burgundy. With that Thor's hammer design for the lights, that's one beautiful car!
Floyd Nash What you do helps folks. I was just hitting on a few details that folks may not be aware of when they do this, like how much the drain plug or filter should be tightened.
Kudos to you for doing the video. For me, that would be the hard part, and I’m sure I would miss attention to the details.
Thanx a lot for making this video I feel confident in doin it now
I'm glad this could help. I didn't see any full videos on how to change the oil including checking the oil level, and resetting the service reminder so I felt there was a need for this.
Thank you for a very excellent video. We have a 2019 Volvo XC60. I called Castrol and was told to use Castrol Edge 5W30 US in the black container. Castrol did not recommend using the Castro Edge Extended Performance.
10/10, thanks man
U didnt change main plug seal?
Used oil is a carcinogen, wear cloves. If the oil is that black and thickened it should've been changed sooner. The benefit of a dip stick is that you can see what the oil looks like without draining it. In my 2007 S60, I change the oil when it looks medium brown on the dip stick.
The manufacturer says change the oil at 10,000 and I don't. I go no more than 5,000. These cars don't have dipsticks so you can't use that as a test. My 2009 did, but a lot of newer cars no longer have a dipstick. Also, dark oil is not just an indication of contaminants. Heat alone will cause the oil to get dark. If you put oil in a coffee pot and put it on a hot plate, it will turn dark without using it or circulating it at all. Turbo cars generate a lot of heat and will cause the oil to get hotter, faster, thus darker. It doesn't mean it's bad, it's just something that happens when you heat oil. I've sent samples of my oil to a test lab at 5,000 miles and it was still just fine, but I still prefer not to exceed 5,000 miles at most. I did the same thing on my 2009 and my daughter is driving it now at well over 200,000 miles and going strong. Making sure to use the correct oil with the correct certifications for your car will help keep it in good shape also.
thanks bro I appreciate your video
thanks for the video, yeah, i'm like you, would prefer to see the oil once in a while, but wow, 10k between oil changes is pretty long. And I probably can't bring this to a quick lube place, with the skid plate and all. Appreciate, ty
Hi Marcus, the quick change places will be able to handle it with the skid plate. Seems like most cars these days have them so it's something they already are familiar with. I like to control the quality of what I put in my cars though.
Hi Floyd,
Thank you for good videos!!!
You know where is power steering refill location? for same car
Thank you 😊
If you also have the 2.0 engine, those cars were equipped with an electric power steering rack, so there is no fluid to check or refill.
Thank you very informative
Why are you using 5w-30 ? My Amsoil database which is pulled from the manufacturer specs calls for European blend of 0w-20 Low saps
Because the owners manual lists that as a good oil to use. The 0W-20 is only really needed for max economy. I also asked Volvo directly and they supplied me with the same info. B
@@MIFixItDad well I can tell you that if you don’t use what the book says or a customer uses our brand of oil it won’t be covered under our warranty unless the oil per the manufacturer is used or what is outlined as approved oil in our database. I let my customers use whatever weight of oil they want from us but i let them know if they are not using what is recommended by the hook then it’s at their own risk .
@@Joblessparadise What's REALLY annoying is the actual Volvo spec calls for ACAE A5/B5 oil, and recommends Castrol. The only current Castrol A5/B5 rated oil is the Professional series, which isn't sold in the US. The one in the US is the Edge full synthetic high mileage, which I believe was ACEA A3/B4 rated. Even so, that's what Volvo said to use for US residents when I asked. It's been almost a decade, so there is no good reason this oil isn't available in the US. It's out of warranty at this point anyway, so I just make sure to use the "good stuff" and change at 5000 mile intervals.
@@MIFixItDad amsoil is the best you’re going to get for just about anything and that’s backed up by numerous testing and we also carry our own warranty for our oil so yes it would be covered under warranty if our oil in some rare event caused an issue or fell below spec as long as you use our recommended oil and use it at the correct interval.
Hello Floyd. How is the overall reliability so far? Does the turbo engine burn any oil btween changes? Planning to buy a used 2016 V60 @26k miles ...any concerns i should be aware of? Do you use regular or premium gas? If using mostly regular, how is the engine behaving? Thanks! Ron from "neighboring " Bloomfield Hills, Mi
Hi Ron. I have had no troubles with the car burning any oil at all between oil changes. Being a turbo doesn't automatically make it more prone to burning oil. Back in the "old" days it might have, but no more. I have a 2009 S60 2.5 turbo that doesn't burn oil with 172,000 miles on it. The only real issue I had is a fuel pressure sensor went bad, but it was replaced under warranty. I have tried regular to compare to premium, and it won't hurt the car but you can feel the difference in performance. The premium fuel allows the engine to run a much more aggressive timing profile. To achieve full rated horsepower, you have to use Premium. It's enough to notice when really pushing it on hard acceleration and passing. Comfort is exceptional. These Volvo seats are just incredibly comfortable. The sound system is exceptional, and it's just a really fun car to drive. Hopefully you have a good experience with your V60 and enjoy it as well.
My 2015 has 212,xxx miles and burns up to two quarts between intervals. I do keep it pegged at 110 on the highway sometimes though...
As info, that 2.5 was far from bulletproof. A lot of early piston ring/head gasket related issues. Great cars though. Great video
Hi,
I’m trying to replace fuel filter. Can you please share where I can locate the filter?
I'll try to get a video doing it some time. I need to replace mine too. If you look under the passenger side, you''ll see the fuel lines running down from the fuel pump/gas tank toward the front of the car. If your car has the filter, it should be just forward of the wheel well. It will be a fist sized cylinder inserted into the fuel line. Mine has one, but I hear some of these Volvo's may not have one. I don't know if that's true or not.
Actually, I got my 2009 and 2015 mixed up. It's the 2009 I had to replace the filter on. They are in the same general area though. The 2015 is near where the fill tube comes down from the fuel fill door. It sits up on top of some sort of cross member or panel, but you'll see 2 parallel fuel lines. Just follow those and they will terminate at the filter.
Maybe the filter is a “lifetime” device and is in the fuel tank. Some carmakers are doing this now.
Hi Floyd! Thank you for an amazing video. Do you know if the oil filter tool is 86 mm/ 16? I have to change my oil filter next week and I drive the D4 2.0 VEA and it should be the same oil filter cap as on the gasoline model but I'm not sure.
Yes, if it uses the same filter cartridge, then it would be 86mm.
@@MIFixItDad Thanks for the quick response. Is it 16 edges? I have found a lot of variations of 86 mm...
@@rasmuspetterssonn I haven't counted the edges but yes, I think the standard for Volvo, and I think some BMW also is 86x16
Hi Floyd do you use the oil filter cup with 16 flutes or 18 flutes? Just making sure before buying it. Thanks in advance
86mm 16 flute. Go to FCPEURO.COM and input your exact vehicle and search on oil filter wrench. I think I got mine from Rock Auto. It's been so long I can't remember any more. You can also find them on Amazon and many other places.
@@MIFixItDad thank you very much for confirming 👍. Just need to confirm the amount of flutes so I can order it from ebay. I have a '15 D4 that needs servicing soon. Did a research online apparently it uses the same filter as yours so logically their housing should be the same.
Here is the TSB on the engine number : Since your car is a early 2.0t Drive E. Im 100% sure it falls into the bad rings catergory . Does not mean it will happen but the chances are good it might . #1501327 is the point where non defective pistons and rings were used .Any engine before that is a crap shoot . Im sorry i was not able to paste the TSB here for you to view .
Is there a link, TSB number, or anything? I've googled the crap out of this and I still find nothing at all on it. I want to be able to share it, or go to my dealer and ask about it, but I have nothing to take to them right now.
@@MIFixItDad Floyd go to swedespeed . Its a volvo owners chat site . Then go to 2011 to 2018 s60 section
Floyd Nash Hi Floyd. Did you found any info about the piston issue?
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10146443-9999.pdf
SERVICE:
From engine serial number: 1501327, engines have been modified from engine factory.
For service: Change to new pistons + piston rings according the attached service method.
Are these reliable? For college kids
Oh heck yes. If you get one in good shape that had preventative stuff maintained, especially the timing belt and PCV system, then they are excellent cars. Insurance is cheaper because they are notoriously safe cars too. Basic things like making sure the suspension/braking/steering components are good (brakes, control arm bushings, struts, tie rods, and sway bar links) will help it last a very, very long time and continue to drive like new. The parts are cheap and if you can do any work on cars, they are pretty easy to replace too. Timing belt I would leave to a pro. PCV system is a pain but a good home mechanic can easily tackle it. All this applies to the P2 Volvo S60, the ones made from about 2001 to 2009. The ones made after that, like the 2015, I can't speak for reliability. If it has the 2.5L 5 cylinder, I would say they would be excellent, but I can't say for the 2.0. So far so good with mine, but it has a lot more complex stuff on that engine and I think would be a lot harder, and more expensive to work on.
@@MIFixItDad thank you so much I had a 2012 and it was a great car but it had so many problems but I just love Volvo’s they drive so great and I feel safe in them
A guy I went to high school with died under a car that was jacked up. His dad had to raise the car and pull him out. Jack stands are not expensive....cheaper than your life.
Totally agree. That's why I never get under a car unless it has either a jack and stand, or 2 jacks on the same side backing each other up. Good ramps are also an acceptable choice. Most good ramps can support way more than the weight of the average car.
where did you order your oil filter?
I order thru Amazon. There are several sellers that have the OEM Volvo filters.
Hey Floyd i just realized your in Michigan , me also . Im like 10 miles west of Port Huron . Where are you at ?
I'm over on the other side of the state in Kalamazoo.
Hi floyd.. can you pls share me the diesel filter part number for your s60 . Thnx
My S60 is gasoline or petrol, not diesel, so I don't know if it's the same part number. Go to FCPEuro.com. You can enter the information for your car and engine type and it will tell you exactly what you should order.
Just want to say thank u. I wonder wld u mind to share more abt the long term maintenance cost (other than the regular engine oil and trans fluid change) for critical items/issues you had come across for this S60 T4/5/6 2011-2019? Thx a lot! God bless u!
Other than oil changes, air filter, cabin filter, and fuel, I've had no other maintenance costs. On the 4 cylinder, the timing belt change interval is 150,000 miles so I still have almost 100,000 miles to go. Volvo doesn't have a change interval for the transmission fluid. Many cars these days don't require it, although I probably will do at least a partial change at some point if I can find a drain for it. I did replace spark plugs when I got it with iridium, and I installed Max Brakes coated rotors with carbon/ceramic pads since I live in an area that salts the roads in the winter.
Hi did you check your engine serial number yet for the bad pistons and rings ?
I don't know of any reported issues like that for the 2015 model. Are you thinking of the 2012 model that had a certain engine code, like engine code 62 or something close to that, where there was a TSB or partial recall for excessive oil consumption due to faulty rings?
@@MIFixItDad No its for the early model 2015.5 S60 T5 . My engine serial number falls in the bad area of poor rings and pistons . There is no recall , If you do have issues Volvo will fix if your in warranty . im pretty mad about it . I dont have the problem yet but probably will . When was your car built ?
I have the 2015, not the 2015.5 model. It must be specific to the 2015.5. I've searched all forums and reviewed all the TSBs issued for the 2015 S60 and can't find anything relating to a piston or ring issue. If you have a source that shows what you're talking about with the issue you've seen, post it here. It could be really useful for people to be able to go look that information up for their car too.
@@MIFixItDad Is your car the Drive E ? Start /Stop function ?
Im sorry Floyd im swamped right now i will get some info and post it for you
HEADS UP . manual is wrong i have just been through this with Volvo and dealer . its 6.2 qts. Do some double and triple checking on your own but i think you will find 6.2 is correct
For the 2.0 4 Cylinder, it's 5.4 Liters, which is 5.7 Quarts. The 5 cylinder takes 5.8 quarts, and the 6 cylinder takes a whopping 7.2 quarts. With the 2.0, you can add up to a maximum of 5.9 liters, which is 6.2 quarts of total oil in the car without causing damage, but you'll want to make sure to check the oil level and make sure it's not showing overfilled if you do that. If so, remove some about 1/4 of a quart at a time until it registers in the normal zone. A normal oil change would only need 5.5 to 5.7 quarts. What burns me is, after doing that oil change, I realized the US oils only go to a max ACAE A1/B1 standard, not the A5/B5 that Volvo recommends. The Castrol oil I put in it is ACEA A1/B1 spec only. If I change it a bit more frequently and don't drive it like a race car, that's probably more than sufficient, but it still ticks me off. If I really want a true Volvo spec oil, I have to get something like the Liquid Moly LM20204 from FCP Euro or the Ravenol brand from BlauParts.com. Either one with filter and shipping is probably going to run you about $75.
@@MIFixItDad I know i have been internet surfing for hours trying to find castrol a5 . Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 is A5 . Walmart website is 25 bucks . Are u aware A5 is a conbination that the oil covers both specs a1 and a3 ? Thats what i was told and read. Also where did you read about 5.9 l max ? I have not seen that anywhere ? And also (lol) you see in the manual about oil specs , it doesnt give a acea till it talks about severe service . then it says 0w30 A5 . Makes me wondet for shorter oil changes if A3 is fine like black bottle castrol 5w30 ?
My oil reading keeps saying not available???
Try checking it with the engine cold (not sub-zero cold, just before you start it for the day) and on a level surface. You can get that message if you check it too soon after shutting off the engine, if the car is on an incline in any direction, or if the temperature outside is very cold. According to Volvo "The car must have been driven approx 30km and have been stationary for 2 hours with the engine switched off and on level ground before the oil level indication is correct"
5w30 dont you mean 0w20 on a VED engine
Craig Megson The 0w20mis for 4 cylinders. U can get what type of oil and how much oil u need from advance auto parts website. They will give u the answer. Nice parts store!
No, the manual, and the Volvo techs I talked to said the 5w30 was fine to use for every day driving. When you are trying to maximize mileage, the 0w20 would be a bit better, but for most people like me that turn off the start/stop feature 90% of the time, it's not required. At least it's getting easier to find in the stores though. Just 2 years ago, I never saw it on the shelves in the stores.
thanks
Why is it that these Volvo's have a "service port" that let's Volvo service Tech's check oil with a dip stick and not the owner? Blue dyed hair 20 year Olds, that's why. 10k between oil changes? Not me!
I don't agree that it has anything to do with youth or hair color. Plenty of my kids friends (college age) dye their hair but also have used cars (broke azz college kids after all), and know how to check their oil. It's the parents that are the reason manufacturers aren't putting a way to check the oil on modern cars. They are more interested in taking selfies it seems, than in knowing how anything works. I know one lady that never checked her oil, ignored the warning lights on the dash, and ended up with a seized engine. Her kids warned her too! Either way, I still don't like it. I want my dipstick.
31216 technical journal
I pay 300 usd for my s60 to get serviced every 10 k miles
Itd save you alot to do it yourself. Oil and filter is around $60
V 3 imgur.com/gallery/lx7sYzK. Here it is Floyd
I did find it once I had the TB number. Thank you very much for that. I appreciate the work and follow up. Unless you look in the right spot on a couple of forums, there sure isn't much about this out there. I did do a good bit of research yesterday though, and it doesn't look like it's actually faulty rings or pistons, just a design that makes them very prone to carbon causing the rings to bind and not do their job properly. It appears most of the issue is caused when people use regular gas and cheap oil changes. These cars and many like them are designed to operate best with premium gas, even though it's not required. Regular gas actually burns quicker than premium, so the timing has to be retarded, which increases particulates and carbon, and reduces power. The ring grooves on the pistons are very high up on the piston, which means they get hotter. If carbon starts to build up, then that increases the heat in the cylinder and on the head of the piston and can cause troubles when the piston ring is in that higher heat zone. Other manufactures have gotten around the issue by simply saying premium fuel is required, not optional. Premium allows the timing to be advanced, the burn is actually cleaner and more thorough, and that creates less carbon buildup. It's still a bad deal by Volvo. If they are going to allow regular gas, then the pistons and rings should be able to handle it. I think if you use top tier premium fuel exclusively, and the recommended oils, you should be OK. I sure as *&%%) hope so anyway because I just got this thing and have several thousand dollars left to pay on it. I'll be contacting my dealer, and a local independent that specializes in Euro cars to see what they say as well. I'm going to be really pissed if it gets just out of the warranty and starts consuming oil. Keep me posted on your results and findings too.
@@MIFixItDad Thanks for getting back to me . Im in same boat as you , i just got mine and i just turned 30k . Was hoping to get many years out of it . I just did a borescope of cylinder 3 to see what it looked like . It looked good no carbon at all . I suggest you get one then you can do periodic checks . The oil im using is Pennzoil ultra 5w30 it is supposed to be great for keeping engine clean . Walmart has it online for 24 bucks , which is great . It is A1/A5 so it has the approved ACEA criteria . Also im going to do 4k changes , I sure would not do 10K , no way . What do you think of adding a good cleaner to the gas now and then ? Gumout has good treatments with PEA. That chemicle is the only on market that works on carbon . Keep in touch , good luck to us both .
I think the first thing I'm going to do is remove the plugs and take a look. I have a friend with a USB boroscope I might try to borrow also but I don't think I'll find anything either. It would be cool to have one of the boroscopes and I see you can get them on Amazon cheap so I might just get one to have it for various things. I thought of the Penziol too. That is the only oil readily available in the US that meets the A5/B5 ACAE spec. I actually wrote Volvo to let them know that the recommended Castrol Edge Pro isn't available in the US, that the closest available is the Edge extended protection I use in the video that meets an A3/B3 spec, and asked them what I should be using. Their answer was to use Castrol, so I'm going to stick with that for now. The A3/B3 spec is actually supposed to offer a slightly better wear protection than the A5/B5 if I understand correct. The A5/B5 handles longer oil changes better. I'm like you though... that won't matter since I don't plan on going 10,000 miles per change. I'll probably do 5000 like I've always done on my 2009 S60. It has 180,000 miles on it and runs like a Swiss watch. I use the occasional cleaner in the 2009 so as the 2015 gets a little older, I will probably use one in it also. I have a Costco membership and try to use the top tier Premium there exclusively as well. I know I can't when I travel, so I look for the branded stations to hopefully get the best quality gas I can. I guess at this point, all we can do is maintain, document, and keep our fingers crossed.
100 bucks! Ha ha try 400
Holy cow! Where do you take it that charges that much? That's horrible!
Don't be fooled by the Volvo badge,,your really driving a geely,,Volvo is now Chinese owned and made with Chinese parts,,you can buy this same car in china but with a geely badge for one third the price,,These basically disposable cars with very cheap components in them,,Just like before 2017 All volvos were basically fords,,
Actually, most of that statement is false. When Ford owned Volvo, very little Ford ended up in Volvo except electronics, switches, etc. Ford actually took the superior construction and design and integrated it into some of their products, such as that incredibly reliable 2.5L 5 cylinder. Geely now owns them but most of the design still remains with Volvo in Sweden. Unfortunately a lot of the cheap plastics from China can now be found on the interior. The cheap "Volvo" you see in China, is usually a copy, not an actual Volvo. Chinese companies are great at copying other products and making a crappy, cheap alternative for use in China. Overall, I can't say I trust Volvo to be reliable any more since Geely took over. They are pretty, but I don't get the feeling that any of the new ones will be joining that million mile Volvo club.