I just watched one of your videos for the first time. I am really impressed with the way you present subjects. You are thorough, precise, informative and have refined filming production techniques. Great job. I’ve subscribed for sure.
I learned the hard way once....ONCE about the drip pans. I have a 13 Quart model from AutoZone....that has lasted me for almost 20 years and works great. I can actually do two vehicles worth of oil changes. I try to coordinate them around the same time and make one trip back to A/Z for used oil disposal. Another cheap piece of insurance is in addition to the drain pan I also purchased a drip pan, this is different than drain pan but covers much more area around the drain pan and recovers most of what may spill over the drain pan. drip trays are easy to store since they are flat and are easy to clean. You might still spill but the drip tray should greatly reduce over spill from the drain pan. Another helpful tip is to vent the drain pan this will greatly enhance the flow rate into the drain pan and make it easier and cleaner do empty the pan at the used oil disposal site. Great video thinking of getting back into the Volvo Market...Came from a 2008 XC90 but looking at 2015 ish S60
8:22 ~ You may not like working on cars, but you have without a doubt, and this is coming from a ex 1990 Honda Accord EX 5 spd manual owner to a now 2015 XC60 T5 AWD 2.5L down to the annoying service light steps a joy to preform and a breeze to complete 2x now, THANK YOU !!💥💯👍🏾👍🏾
Another quick tip is when draining oil I recommend draining as much as possible.... The old oil should come out as a trickle, About five minutes should do it. Also drain oil, filter wait a few minutes then replace drain plug. If you have a high mileage vehicle then changing the drain plug could be in order. I have seen different videos for the oil filter, some have you remove from the bottom and some from the top. The Cartridge filters take a bit of getting used to but seem to work and are becoming more common. I have had Audi, BMC, Mercedes and Volvo and all four had the cartridge type filters and at least since about 2008 model year. Good call on the Mobil 1, Volvo recommends Castrol but I have had good luck with Mobil 1 and you can usually get the same $ 26 ish price at Costco when the oil sales rotate through to Mobil 1. For the fill part, fill top off but don't be surprised is the level drops a bit after start. That is some cycling through the filter and don't be alarmed. Those ramps that you used are the ones I have and work great. They are easy to store and also provide a very good angle for allowing maximum drain back of the old oil. Also remember when checking for leaks allow engine to idle about five minutes minimum. Keep the splash shield removed until after the leak check is complete. Easier to detect leaks immediately at the source. If for some reason you think you over serviced GENTLY crack the drain plug. The difference between a trickle and a geyser of the oil can literally be a matter of 1/4 turn. I recommend a box end wrench for the drain plug, ratchet works but I think you can control the torque better with a wrench, You could also split the middle and get a ratchet wrench. After cracking the drain plug gently twist by hand. Remember again drip and geyser can be a matter of a 1/4 turn or even less.
6:46 Gosh, I hate this part. Volvo makes it hard to do this step because I assume they want the dealerships to be the ones to change the oil. This step isn't mentioned in the owner's manual, so you have to look online...and it took me longer than you would think to find the correct way to do this. Very frustrating.
Hey Aaron, Have you ever change the fuel filter on your 2014 Volvo S60 2.5L T5? If so, can you please share your experience on that? I have spent 4 hours and I haven't been able to locate it!
Can't say what real long-term reliability looks like, sold it at just over 100k miles. Only two issues were a cracked engine mount and a warped rotor. Both taken care of before the warranty expired. Would not hesitate to buy another.
Quick question: I didn't have the proper wrench with me, so I went ahead and changed the oil without changing the filter. I will come back and do the filter in a few days. When I do, will oil come gushing out of it, or will it be like this one? Keep in mind the engine will have oil in it. Thanks.
@@aaronstestlab for future reference, I remove the oil filter without bothering the oil and it works perfectly fine. As long as the engine is cold, there is very little oil in that oil filter. It was super easy to deal with just have universal joint, a small wobble joint, a 36 mm socket, and a ratchet. Which I know you mentioned that in your video. I tried a 36 mm service wrench but couldn't get enough torque to loosen it. But the service wrench was nice for tightening.
You're probably right. Though I'm honestly convinced that when you're comparing fully-synthetic oils of the same weight, they're nears-as-makes no difference in quality.
@@aaronstestlab forms on the internet say that rotella 5w-40(Full synthetic) and mobile-1 0w-40 are better for turbo cars. I used 5w-30 full synthetic and it gets blackened quick.
@@aaronstestlab I was thinking about that too, but after looking at some of the reviews from owners with Turbos I decided to stick with the recommended Castrol Edge. Rather be safe than sorry.
Hello, Just wondering, if you or anyone else seeing this can say whether you can swap oil filter/O-ring without a drained system? (2012 Volvo S60 T5 2.5L) Looking to put in a "better" oil filter but don't the oil changed yet at least.
Considering the filter and housing sit above the oil pan I would think it's ok. I honestly wouldn't do it though. Just wait until your next oil change. My non-mechanic inclination is that one oil filter can't be that much better than another to justify the hassle.
I was thinking the same thing...Literally had my oil changed yesterday and just had the idea come across my head just for that potential "performance increase" by using a "better" filter such as K&N...Unnecessary? Definitely, it's just that little satisfaction factor that's poking me, even if there isn't a difference. Thank you though!
A tilted car may retain 200 to 300 ml of old oil, does not matter if your oil change interval is decent - I do every 6k miles, which us sooner than volvo recommendation.
Hey bud. Thanks for the video. I’ll get on getting those tools asap. Do you have a preference for what brand of engine coolant you use? I have a 2014 s60 as well
@@aaronstestlab I measured it is 1 7/16 in. That's roughly equivalent to 36 mm. When I ordered a 36 mm socket on Amazon, lo and behold, it said, "Fits oil filters for some BMW and Volvo automobiles." I had spotted that cap and was suspicious oh, but your video confirm that I had not lost my mind, being unable to find the oil filter underneath the vehicle. Much obliged.
I used a similar contraption w a smaller 6" extension, it worked for me as my ratcheting wrench was with a swivel head that was able to bend around other parts in the way.
HELP! Guys, I can't get the oil filter housing loose. I think I'm going to break my ratchet. It's torqued so tight....I've never experienced this before. With all my might I can't get this thing off. AND, I had to buy a low profile 36mm socket off Amazon just to be able to get on the nut! This is ridiculous. I have been at this for two days.
@@aaronstestlab Yeah, I'm toast. I've tried so much I've stripped the plastic nut. Afraid my only option now is to break the thing off and buy a new housing. Any ideas on how to break this thing? Grrrr.
Except for the part where the engine on this car is known to clog the control rings, both in part due to extended interval (10k mi) and originally didn't spec full synthetic...running conventional, even with updated rings, with a turbo is just a poor idea.
@@aaronstestlab yeah service interval is 10k, but with how many people fall under severe service interval + potential clogging of the control rings if original, 5-8k mi interval makes more sense
@@aaronstestlab There is a class action lawsuit against Volvo for excessive oil consumption in these models developing in the 60K-100K milage range. It is due to defective piston rings clogging and resulting in blow-by. That oil is WAY too dark and thick and will inevitably result in large oil consumption. These models should have their synthetic changed no more than 3000 miles to delay onset of this problem. Not sure of your milage, but if you’ve been doing them at Volvo recommended intervals (and judging from its color), it may be too late for this engine.
I agree, I do 6k interval changes, but I use castrol edge full synthetic golden bottle top of the line that meets the spec in the Volvo manual Acea spec
I just watched one of your videos for the first time. I am really impressed with the way you present subjects. You are thorough, precise, informative and have refined filming production techniques. Great job. I’ve subscribed for sure.
This vid has been really useful during my ownership of this car. Thanks!
I learned the hard way once....ONCE about the drip pans. I have a 13 Quart model from AutoZone....that has lasted me for almost 20 years and works great. I can actually do two vehicles worth of oil changes. I try to coordinate them around the same time and make one trip back to A/Z for used oil disposal. Another cheap piece of insurance is in addition to the drain pan I also purchased a drip pan, this is different than drain pan but covers much more area around the drain pan and recovers most of what may spill over the drain pan. drip trays are easy to store since they are flat and are easy to clean. You might still spill but the drip tray should greatly reduce over spill from the drain pan. Another helpful tip is to vent the drain pan this will greatly enhance the flow rate into the drain pan and make it easier and cleaner do empty the pan at the used oil disposal site. Great video thinking of getting back into the Volvo Market...Came from a 2008 XC90 but looking at 2015 ish S60
Very helpful guide! With prices going up, it just made sense to start doing this.. And what luck, I have the same model! Thank you so much!
Thanks for the very informative video. I was able to change my oil for around $38 vs. $70+
8:22 ~ You may not like working on cars, but you have without a doubt, and this is coming from a ex 1990 Honda Accord EX 5 spd manual owner to a now 2015 XC60 T5 AWD 2.5L down to the annoying service light steps a joy to preform and a breeze to complete 2x now, THANK YOU !!💥💯👍🏾👍🏾
I appreciate your honesty throughout your vid. Thanks for the tutorial!
Great video man, very helpful. Really liked how you showed us your socket wrench setup!
Another quick tip is when draining oil I recommend draining as much as possible.... The old oil should come out as a trickle, About five minutes should do it. Also drain oil, filter wait a few minutes then replace drain plug. If you have a high mileage vehicle then changing the drain plug could be in order. I have seen different videos for the oil filter, some have you remove from the bottom and some from the top. The Cartridge filters take a bit of getting used to but seem to work and are becoming more common. I have had Audi, BMC, Mercedes and Volvo and all four had the cartridge type filters and at least since about 2008 model year. Good call on the Mobil 1, Volvo recommends Castrol but I have had good luck with Mobil 1 and you can usually get the same $ 26 ish price at Costco when the oil sales rotate through to Mobil 1. For the fill part, fill top off but don't be surprised is the level drops a bit after start. That is some cycling through the filter and don't be alarmed. Those ramps that you used are the ones I have and work great. They are easy to store and also provide a very good angle for allowing maximum drain back of the old oil. Also remember when checking for leaks allow engine to idle about five minutes minimum. Keep the splash shield removed until after the leak check is complete. Easier to detect leaks immediately at the source.
If for some reason you think you over serviced GENTLY crack the drain plug. The difference between a trickle and a geyser of the oil can literally be a matter of 1/4 turn. I recommend a box end wrench for the drain plug, ratchet works but I think you can control the torque better with a wrench, You could also split the middle and get a ratchet wrench. After cracking the drain plug gently twist by hand. Remember again drip and geyser can be a matter of a 1/4 turn or even less.
Mann is a OEM supllier. They made the air filter / ecu housing
Is this the same procedure for 2015 models? Sounds the same as my 2008 XC90 except the filter cartridge housing was more on top of the engine.
Great vid, thank you. Safety first. Did you chuck one of your rear wheels? Just looking out for ya'.
Great tutorial video. One suggestion, is to degrease and wash your engine bay.
Awesome - super helpful. Thanks so much
Brilllllliant - thanks for sharing ⛵️ 👍
Great video Aaron!
Thank you for listing your tools.
Do a video of changing the exhaust / catalytic converter
6:46 Gosh, I hate this part. Volvo makes it hard to do this step because I assume they want the dealerships to be the ones to change the oil. This step isn't mentioned in the owner's manual, so you have to look online...and it took me longer than you would think to find the correct way to do this. Very frustrating.
Hey Aaron, Have you ever change the fuel filter on your 2014 Volvo S60 2.5L T5? If so, can you please share your experience on that? I have spent 4 hours and I haven't been able to locate it!
Can’t say I ever did that before trading the vehicle in
Hi Aaron, appreciate your video. Is your t5, new engine 4 cylinder drive E version?
it's the old 5 cylinder
Did you know how to change the fuel filter? Thanks!
Hey are the 2014/15 model s60 reliable for college kids
Can't say what real long-term reliability looks like, sold it at just over 100k miles. Only two issues were a cracked engine mount and a warped rotor. Both taken care of before the warranty expired. Would not hesitate to buy another.
Both items are general wear items, I have had warped rotors on Hondas in 10k miles that got worse till 50k when I finally replaced them.
Where can we get the blocks to elevate the car?
Hey great job love the vid..
Quick question: I didn't have the proper wrench with me, so I went ahead and changed the oil without changing the filter. I will come back and do the filter in a few days. When I do, will oil come gushing out of it, or will it be like this one? Keep in mind the engine will have oil in it. Thanks.
I can't say for certain. The filter sits above the oil pan so you might be alright. That said I wouldn't do it.
@@aaronstestlab Thanks for the quick reply. I'll just get a new, clean container and drain the oil, change the filter, and put the oil back in.
@@aaronstestlab for future reference, I remove the oil filter without bothering the oil and it works perfectly fine. As long as the engine is cold, there is very little oil in that oil filter. It was super easy to deal with just have universal joint, a small wobble joint, a 36 mm socket, and a ratchet. Which I know you mentioned that in your video. I tried a 36 mm service wrench but couldn't get enough torque to loosen it. But the service wrench was nice for tightening.
@@mattmgarza Right on. Thanks for checking back in and confirming.
Thank you sir, perfect tutorial. Although I pray that you returned that garbage drain pan back to Walmart with the oil still in it! ;)
lol, they would deserve it.
what about the original Volvo oil ? isn't good ? i can choose between the original volvo oil and castrol edge proffesional .. what is best ?
I've Got a Xc90 2.5t. Id use Castrol. My OEM oil filler cap says use Castrol only. Id use that
@@luvjoebacon2915
Mobile 1 oil? I thought Volvo recommends Castrol Edge Professional oil type
You're probably right. Though I'm honestly convinced that when you're comparing fully-synthetic oils of the same weight, they're nears-as-makes no difference in quality.
@@aaronstestlab Nice, I think I will switch to Castrol Edge Extended Performance for my Car next oil change.
I was thinking about giving the AmazonBasics brand full synthetic a try...$17.99 for 5 quarts.
@@aaronstestlab forms on the internet say that rotella 5w-40(Full synthetic) and mobile-1 0w-40 are better for turbo cars. I used 5w-30 full synthetic and it gets blackened quick.
@@aaronstestlab I was thinking about that too, but after looking at some of the reviews from owners with Turbos I decided to stick with the recommended Castrol Edge. Rather be safe than sorry.
Where did you get these things you put under your tyres? Are they plastic?
Here they are - amzn.to/2Z2vo8x - Associate Link
Hello,
Just wondering, if you or anyone else seeing this can say whether you can swap oil filter/O-ring without a drained system? (2012 Volvo S60 T5 2.5L) Looking to put in a "better" oil filter but don't the oil changed yet at least.
Considering the filter and housing sit above the oil pan I would think it's ok. I honestly wouldn't do it though. Just wait until your next oil change. My non-mechanic inclination is that one oil filter can't be that much better than another to justify the hassle.
I was thinking the same thing...Literally had my oil changed yesterday and just had the idea come across my head just for that potential "performance increase" by using a "better" filter such as K&N...Unnecessary? Definitely, it's just that little satisfaction factor that's poking me, even if there isn't a difference. Thank you though!
Life saver!
ANY IDEA HOW MANY MILES TILL THE SERVICE INTERVAL GOES OFF AGAIN ONCE RESET? IS IT 10K MILES OR 7.5K MILES?
I think it defaults to 10K
@@aaronstestlab THANKS, WILL CONFIRM ONCE IT GOES OFF. GREAT VID, THANKS.
@@aaronstestlab YEAH, THAT IS RIGHT.
are you related to chelsea denofa?
I don't know who that is
How do you drain all the oil if the car is not leveled by raising it like that ....??
Drain plug is on the rear-side of the oil pan. When you life the front, it becomes the low point. Might be a problem if the plug was on the front.
A tilted car may retain 200 to 300 ml of old oil, does not matter if your oil change interval is decent - I do every 6k miles, which us sooner than volvo recommendation.
Hey bud. Thanks for the video. I’ll get on getting those tools asap. Do you have a preference for what brand of engine coolant you use? I have a 2014 s60 as well
Have you done the cam seals on your car?
Hi Aaron, how many bottles of oil did you use?
He used a little more than 5. The owner's manual says the T5 needs 5.8 Quarts of oil. Each bottle is a Quart. Hope this helps
I agree I put 5.6 quarts in it today - my 2013 s60 T5 AWD.
What size socket for the Filter Cap?
can't remember off the top of my head but links to everything are in the description
@@aaronstestlab I measured it is 1 7/16 in. That's roughly equivalent to 36 mm. When I ordered a 36 mm socket on Amazon, lo and behold, it said, "Fits oil filters for some BMW and Volvo automobiles." I had spotted that cap and was suspicious oh, but your video confirm that I had not lost my mind, being unable to find the oil filter underneath the vehicle. Much obliged.
Right on...glad it worked out for ya
I used a similar contraption w a smaller 6" extension, it worked for me as my ratcheting wrench was with a swivel head that was able to bend around other parts in the way.
HELP! Guys, I can't get the oil filter housing loose. I think I'm going to break my ratchet. It's torqued so tight....I've never experienced this before. With all my might I can't get this thing off. AND, I had to buy a low profile 36mm socket off Amazon just to be able to get on the nut! This is ridiculous. I have been at this for two days.
Use a cheater bar(1" pipe slid over the ratchet handle)...or head over to any hardware store and buy a breaker bar.
@@aaronstestlab Yeah, I'm toast. I've tried so much I've stripped the plastic nut. Afraid my only option now is to break the thing off and buy a new housing. Any ideas on how to break this thing? Grrrr.
thanks so much
You don’t need full synthetic just because it has a turbo. Diesels run dyno oil all the time
True, but gas engine turbos have to deal with higher exhaust temps and higher RPMs
Except for the part where the engine on this car is known to clog the control rings, both in part due to extended interval (10k mi) and originally didn't spec full synthetic...running conventional, even with updated rings, with a turbo is just a poor idea.
S 80 2015 T5 Volvo
Next time drive car in then line up ramps close to front tires
6 month not 12
5,000 miles, not 10👍
incorrect
@@aaronstestlab yeah service interval is 10k, but with how many people fall under severe service interval + potential clogging of the control rings if original, 5-8k mi interval makes more sense
@@aaronstestlab There is a class action lawsuit against Volvo for excessive oil consumption in these models developing in the 60K-100K milage range. It is due to defective piston rings clogging and resulting in blow-by. That oil is WAY too dark and thick and will inevitably result in large oil consumption. These models should have their synthetic changed no more than 3000 miles to delay onset of this problem. Not sure of your milage, but if you’ve been doing them at Volvo recommended intervals (and judging from its color), it may be too late for this engine.
I agree, I do 6k interval changes, but I use castrol edge full synthetic golden bottle top of the line that meets the spec in the Volvo manual Acea spec