The men in our family were beating on that thing for half a day. I decided to look for how to videos. Came across yours. Showed the guys, they had it off 10 minutes later. Thank you!!! Your trick is awesome.
Pounded on my 2008 Impreza from New England for a couple hours before finding this video. Had both ball joints out of the steering knuckle in under 15min each using the trick! Awesome! Thanks again!
Thanks for the awesome tip! After my husband fought with our Honda Civic for an hour trying several ways to try to get the ball joint separated from the control arm, we decided to check TH-cam and found your very helpful tip. After trying this with a metal wedge and then impacting with a 5lb hammer, it broke free!
Thank you!!! After 3 hours I was ready to drive it to a shop to have them do it, but I was worried that the balljoint would collapse on the way there. I searched TH-cam and found your video, thank goodness. I used impact sockets as wedges, it took 3 ‘drops’and it worked! Thank you again! You should get a reward on TH-cam for the most helpful video!
Heck yes! Love comments like this. Happy to help. You can use the same trick to pull the joint from the socket as well. Just partially thread the stud nut back on, like most of the way. Remove the pinch joint bolt, spread the clamp a tiny bit with a chisel be gentle, and then perform the drop trick again!
@@802Garage Got the driver's side out but the ball joint is stuck on the passenger side, it's not coming out after 12 drops with the stud threaded on the control arm. I did get a big cracking sound on the first drop but the top of the ball joint is still fully seated up in the socket and it's not moving when I take a 4 lb sledge to the control arm. The wedges I'm putting in have made small dent in the control arm after so many drops. The pinch bolt has been removed, I'll try spreading the pinch clamp a little bit as you suggested. I'm also going to buy a wedge for splitting wood at Harbor Freight and will try that as a wedge instead of impact sockets. Thanks again.
@@802Garage Also, somehow in the midst of all of the drops the rotor is now turned to the right about 20 degrees while the driver's side rotor is pointing straight ahead. Not good. Do you have any idea what happened? I think it happened after I moved the rotor around by hand, pulling the bottom of the rotor toward me. Did I pull out the inner tie rod or the inner CV joint out of its socket by moving the rotor around? Any advice you can give would be much appreciated!
After 2h of hammering the bjoint on SubOut I was about to zip disk and drill this thing out. Came across your video and in ~10min on a 3rd try it came out. Thanks again guys !
Is it bad that I lifted it by the wheel hub ? I had already taken off the rotor . Did I damage anything? Also I separated that rubber boot from the bottom of the control arm and grease oozed out?
Nah shouldn't have damaged the bearing or anything it handles way more force than that. If you mean the rubber boot on the ball joint, yes it's there to contain grease. As long as you didn't pierce the boot and can put it back on, the ball joint should be fine. If you are replacing it, it doesn't matter anyways.
This worked mint on my 04 FXT. We're square in the middle of the rust belt and the pickaxe/sledgehammer method took about 4 tries before finally cracking it loose. Youre a life saver lol
@@jamesroseboro2764it’s been a while, but I think I used a wrecking bar. It’s just what I had on had that was the right size to fit between the components.
This worked for me on my daughter's 2003 Accord. Struggled for two hours and then came inside, scanned TH-cam for a better way, found this, and when I tried it it worked the first time. Thanks!
I don't normally comment on videos but need to here. I bent my expensive balljoint splitter and spent over an hour messing about. Watched this video, tried the method and it was off in 5 mins. So easy. Thanks
So glad to hear it! This has been me y experience as well. Many people will just tell you to use a pickle fork or a ball joint separator tool and I simply respond that they have never encountered a truly stuck ball joint, hahaha.
I cant thank you guys enough for this video, I spent hours banging on the control arm with no success. This trick worked on the first attempt itself. I did the control arm first to use astro pneumatic subaru balljoint puller, that did not work as I dont have any impact guns then Iput the control arm back with castle nut on this time and used your technique again to get the balljoint too. Thanks a ton my friends for this video.
I know exactly how you feel and I'm super happy to help! I wish I had covered using the trick to pull the joint from the knuckle as well, but I always tell people to do exactly what you said. Good job!
Life saving video right here!! Used a 25mm open end wrench, fit perfect between the a arm and knuckle dropped the jack and heard the most satisfying cling of all time lol
Dude. Whooped that control arm for like 2 hours trying to get the ball joint out. This took 10 minutes per side, not even. Thank you for saving my sanity. My car is 2010 WRX for anyone wondering, 236k and rusted to piss and this worked
So glad to hear it! This really is the best trick I know for Subaru. Works even better than the ball joint tools. Really appreciate the comment! I know your pain.
I have been trying to get my ball joint unstuck for 2 days. My neighbor whose family were coal miners just gave me a pix ax. He said cut the handle off i have plenty. Gonna try it today. Keep u posted 😊
I really appreciate your videos. I like that you add a vlogging personality to it and your sense of humor in the videos and your comments. You seem like a good and happy dude which I find helpful in car maintenance troubles. I’m so grateful to people who make these videos. Honestly it’s the difference between a lot of us being broke or more broke from paying for shop costs! Haha.
Hey just did this on a 1999 outback. The passenger side was the original ball joint. As a geologist I used a geology hammer instead of a pick axe. Worked first try. So much thanks.
So happy to hear it! I made a TikTok video on this and you should see how many comments say "just use a hammer" or "pickle fork" and so many are condescending. I'm like... You clearly have no idea what rust can do. I've been in your spot and this trick saved me. Glad to help!
This is the best way I’ve seen. Fought a ball joint for over 2 hours with a mine sledge, full sledge, prybar, penetrating oil you name it we tried it this worked the first time on both sides!
Thank you!!! I know the exact struggle you were going through and that's why I made this video. I have not found anything that works better including a ball joint separator tool. Really glad it worked for you and thanks for the comment!
OK, thanks you guys! It took a ten pound sledge and some solid hits, but your pickaxe trick worked on my stuck truck ball joint. Beating on it with a large ball peen hammer wasn't enough. Large sledge necessary. Had to stack a large chisel on the side of the pick to take up space and keep the pick in place. Thanks for your help!
Wow that's insane! Def as bad as the one in this video or worse. I recently made a TikTok vid about this trick and it popped without any hammering necessary, which is more normal. Really glad it helped and thanks for the comment!
@@802Garage yeah I really appreciated that video, I was at my wit's end. we have a serious mag chloride problem here in the mountains of Colorado and it corrodes parts like you wouldn't believe.
This trick is awesome! Was thinking about how to apply a lever and this is the best way so far. I had a really stubborn ball joint. I broke one ball joint separator tool. Then was hammering pretty hard. Then used your method: jacked the wheel, inserted 24mm socket, and released the jack. It still didn't come, but I only hammer once and not hard from the top, similarly to how you did on the pick axe, and just got it! Nice stuff. Just make sure that pressure is applied to the solid part of the socket. Anyways, now I know why they are selling pick axes at Harbor Freight.
That's why the comments about ball joint separators make me laugh. Those people have clearly never seen one break when a joint is too stuck. Absolute worse case scenario you could combine this trick, a ball joint separator, heat, and another hammer, and I'm sure almost any joint would come apart. Thanks a lot for the comment!
Well, I was beating mine Legacy for two hours.... than I watched this video, did what I saw and BAM!! First time succes... just had to do it twice to get it all the way out. So thank you very much
Guys, thank you so much for sharing your expertise. I was just about to give up and take this to the garage until I saw your video. Was difficult to find a notch to jam something in but with the wheel jacked up I was able to squeeze in a file like yours, and drop it and after a bit more punishment had the BIG crack and it was free - new drive shaft installed and back on the road ( Volvo s40 - UK ) I OWE YOU !!
Heck yes that's awesome! Glad to hear it works on some Volvo models. I have a front spring for an S40/V40 on eBay that just won't sell hahaha. Wish you were in the States I'd send it for free in case yours snaps eventually. :P
Holy smokes! I just spent hours with a pickle fork and specialty ball joint separator tool with no luck. After watching your video, I jacked the suspension up by the brake disc (didn't feel great about that, but I don't think it did any harm), jammed an old file in there and let rip. Boom! She's off in a few minutes! Thank you!
Thank you! So many people say "Just use a pickle fork." or "They make a tool for that." I'm just like, you clearly have not actually encountered a really stuck ball joint, so stop talking and learn something. Jacking up by the brake disc is fine as long as you didn't bend the dust shield and ideally you secured it with a lug nut. Either way, job done!
I had success jacking up the control arm until the space opened up between the control arm and knuckle was at the maximum. Then I pounded in a pickle fork and jammed in a flat scrap metal spacer between the tines of the pickle fork and the control arm to fill in all the loose play. I lowered the control arm slowly and it freed it ball joint the first try, after nothing else had worked. This is a great method!
After hours of bashing, pulling, scratching my head and cursing I’d given up. Then I saw your video. Got it off in 10 minutes. This is one hell of a trick. Thanks so much for sharing it.
Thank you. For making this video was fighting a stuck ball joint. And ended up going the pick axe route dam it worked well. Saved having to wait to go get tools. Thank you guys.
Hahaha, yeah you aren't the first to mention that. It was just an old piece of scrap metal to me. Usually they don't fight that hard, but now I just go straight to the pickaxe every time. Glad it helped!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! After wasting an hour plus on side one, we called it a day on side two, when it was more stuck than the first. Found this video and tried it on side two. F'ing MAGIC!!! Took two hits, the first we saw 1/4"+ movement, enough that our first insert bar was now loose (happy dance), needed a thicker item to insert, one more drop and boom!
That's so awesome! I am loving the comments on this video. People on TikTok said "just use a hammer" and I told them to have fun hammering for an hour if they live in rusty areas. All these comments are exactly what I've gone through, hahaha. Happy to help!
Dude thank you so much!! New England car too hammering for hours on control arm, ball joint end with nut on the end, hell even jacking up the whole car on the ball joint end didn’t even loosen it while hammering. That worked in literally 2 seconds. Thank you! Wish I knew this trick before would have saved like 3 hours
Subaru needs to put this into their repair manual! Was trying everything to get the ball joint loose for 2 hours - swinging a 4lb sledgehammer, hammering in chisels and pry bars with no luck. After all that, it took 3 drops of the suspension and ball joint popped right out of the knuckle!
Hahaha love to hear it! You should see how many people on TikTok told me "just use a hammer" or "swing your purse at it" like there isn't a reason for the trick.
Thanks! For the uppers you can try the same trick if there is a good spot to jam something between the arm and knuckle. Just instead of dropping the suspension, jam it in place and then jack it up. Jack it until there is a lot of pressure on it, but don't life the vehicle. Then hammer on the knuckle or arm, and hopefully the force plus the shock will pop it.
Impressive Video. Entertaining. Now I have a 2011 Toyota Rav 4. Very little, if any, room to insert anything. I'm done ''bezelling off'' the nut. Thought it would just drop. Nothing. Hammered it, use a pickle fork, separator, more hammering...nothing. What would you realistically suggest inserting in there?
Well if you can get one side of the pickle fork in further without going around the ball joint stud, that could be an option. Otherwise perhaps a crow bar of some sort? An axe head? Part of a hammer? Will have to get creative.
Beat it, heated it, sprayed it, beat it again...this thing was stuck. Saw you video and had both sides off in 5 minutes. Great trick. A file may be too brittle so I tried the handle of a crecent wrench but settled on the handle of a square chissel.
Actually one of the best parts about this trick is it doesn't damage the boot. Unlike using a pickle fork, for example. Sure, if you are very uncareful you could damage the boot, but I never have. At most it usually just pushes it aside a bit. :)
If you jack up the whole front of the car and/or disconnect the sway bar it becomes significantly easier to push the control arm down to push the stud in. I usually step on it. Can also use a metal rod as a lever if you can find a good pry point. I always grease the knuckle where the joint goes in upwards to prevent future rust. Also grease the hell out of the clamp split so the bolt doesn't rust up later.
@@802Garage right thats what I was tryna avoid lol was worried I'd have to get one so I don't mess it up putting it back in like probably get it out just putting it back in would be a pain
@@HornsHustle The tool is used to press the old one out and the new one in. I don't have a tutorial on my channel yet, but there are plenty out there. You can also rent the tool, but if you know you'll use it more in the future, I usually just buy it.
If there is any way to jam something between the ball joint and what you are trying to separate from it and then turn the steering to add force, it should work similar to this. Like if you can drive a wedge in between with a hammer, and then turning the wheel one way decreases the gap size. You can even turn the car on and use the power steering to give you a ton of mechanical advantage. Otherwise, penetrant, heat, time, vibration.
@@802Garage Yep. Tried that plus. So far I have tried. Manual Pickle Fork and hammer. Heat from Propane Torch and Manual Pickle Fork Hammering on the Pitman Arm while Pickle Fork was wedged in BJ Separator - shattered the pin and stripped the threads. Had to cut it off with an angle grinder. Larger BJ Separator - stripped the threads Heat from Propane torch plus Air Hammer with a Pickle Fork I feel like I am out of options.
@@802Garage the trick truly saved me so much time. I was basically stuck until I found the video. So truly I greatly appreciate your time effort in helping all of us.
Glad to help! If you need to get the joint out of the knuckle, you can put the stud back through with the nut on loose and repeat the trick after you pull the pinch clamp bolt.
@@warrior78fb Ah gotcha. Glad it worked for something non-Subaru. My advice above is fairly Subaru specific. When you finally get it to break free is the best feeling! 😌
Needed a new axle on a Japanese rust bucket shirt box of mine... Used penetrating oil, torch, hammering, you name it for 3 hours. The ball joint nut just snowed rust and wouldn't budge, so I almost gave up. Finally went good ole West prospecting' with a camping axe like in the video and "KARRACK" saved the day! Had the new axle in the next 10 minutes. Thanks!
Def won't work on all vehicles. For an upward pointing joint if there is a good spot to stick a tool for leverage, you can put the tool in between the arm and knuckle and then jack the suspension up to create the leverage force. Hope that makes sense. Not an instant fix, but may help with the hammering!
That's bad ass I jacked them up before thanks for the tech I hate rusty cars.. do yall have any tips on the wheel bearing I have a air hammer and any tips on pressing ball joints in
I actually have tutorials on my channel on both pulling and pressing in new wheel bearings. So check those videos out if you want and make sure to check out the note in the description or pinned comment. If you mean Subaru ball joints specifically, they don't need to be pressed in, just pushed in and then bolted. In general for pressing and wheel bearings you're going to want to get a wheelbarring press tool that either goes around the control arm and pushes on the back of the ball joint or that pulls it through using the threads of the ball joint.
I leave it partially threaded on usually. You have to loosen it to pull the stud though of course. You can also use this trick to pull the ball joint from the knuckle by removing the pinch bolt, threading the castle nut back on, and repeating the trick.
Used the astro pneumatic puller today and it ripped the threads right off the ball joint. It is stuck in the knuckle. Got the castle nut threaded back on so going to give this a try tomorrow.
I have one of those two and I usually end up using this method, partially for that exact reason! Worry about losing the threads or pulling the ball out of the joint.
Like so many other Subaru owners had to replace my control arm bushings, the stuck ball joint on the control arm stopped me cold, was going to take it to a shop let them fight with it. After looking at your cool trick to pop that bad boy loose I'm going to attack it again. I'm sure it will pop off, good one 892 garage !!!!
Agreed. a nice one can be pricey though. A lot of the cheap ones would have snapped trying to remove that passenger ball joint. Most people don't know how to take advantage of the cheap ones too, by just applying a lot of tension and then hammering the suspension arm like normal. This method works well in a pinch or when you don't have the right tools. I've had to do plenty of jobs there is a right tool for with all the wrong equipment! Hahaha.
But how do you remove the entire ball joint from the knuckle for replacement? This is only half of what I am struggling to accomplish. Removing from the control arm is the easy part.
You can use the exact same method. Remove the pinch clamp bolt. If it is hard to remove, lubricate and heat repeatedly and try again. If you break it, drill it out. You can replace it with a bolt and nut. Once the pinch clamp bolt is removed, spread the pinch clamp slightly with a chisel or hefty screwdriver and a hammer. Don't go crazy, just a tiny bit of spread. Put the ball joint stud back in the control arm and tighten the nut most of the way, but not hard obviously. Repeat the trick and it should pull the ball joint from the knuckle. Remove the nut on the stud, remove joint. Hope this helps.
Had to come back and give a big thanks 2015 Chevy sonic it was rusted in there 3 hours of beating and cussing, I found your video used a flat pry bar for nails all I had dropped the rotor and bam came half way out after a few more drops it was out, got the new one in after cleaning in about 20 minutes. Thanks for the tip ❤
Now that's an effective way to strike gold with auto repairs! We got to all remember to use a pickaxe when it comes to digging deep for them auto repairs! Great performance guys!
That was a really stuck joint. I had a joint get stuck to my lip once. But that's another story. I'm enjoying your workshop vids, mate. Very informative for newbie home-mechanics. EDIT: I still call them castellated nuts. Same thing. And for trivia sake, they are so-named because they look like the top of a castle parapet. Hence the name being modified to 'castle' nut.
That sounds awful! Castellated nut is the right term, isn't it? I think I just say castle for short. What did I say in the video? Lock nut or something? Should start calling them rook nuts just to confuse people. :)
It can be a huge pain! Get a pickle fork and a torch. Hammer the pickle fork in and heat the stud. Do that several times and eventually it will come free. Just another suggestion.
I was ready to take my 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis to the garage. Then I saw your video. Worked in dislodging the ball joint from the lower control arm and my file didn't break. Unfortunately the stud remains seized in the control arm. So some progress thanks to your video.
Yes I probably should have taken more time to advise people to be careful and do so at their own risk etc. Good call on the rotor, def gotta pay attention. You can jack it up by the ball joint stud as well which I do often.
Great video! If you don't have a pick axe handy, a 4" C clamp works really well too. The "top" of the C tapers just like the pick axe and can be wedged in there similarly. Likely takes up less space too if you don't have the car jacked up very high.
After spending around 8 hours trying to murder out my ball joint by splintering wood on the top of the control arm and blasting it with a pickle fork countless times. This is the method that worked immediately! Took 5 minutes tops. You are a genius. Thank you 🤘🏻
Eyyy! That's awesome. Thanks a lot for the comment. Been really glad to hear about this helping people since I have been through the same struggle many times.
You can actually use the same trick! Remove the pinch clamp bolt, which yes I know can be a pain. Heat, beat, lube, and drill out if it breaks. Spread the pinch camp slightly with a chisel, only slightly. Put the nut back on the ball joint stud and tighten very lightly. Repeat the trick, and it should pull the joint from the knuckle. Good luck!
@@802Garage Really, the ball are very shinny and no rust on it. When I check the ball joint with pushing the wheel, it is quite solid so it seemed good. I don't know if it is my fault(I did several times) or because of the ball joint is bad itself.
@@802Garage The ball joint is original one I believe. When I check it, the inside plastic layer feels good. I planed to change another ball joint to an aftermarket part because Honda doesn't sell ball joint seperately. Do you think Autozone's Duralast is a good choice? Thanks
*WARNING* Some concerned viewers noted, and I should have too: PLEASE wear safety glasses any time you attempt a job like this. Wear PPE whenever you use a sledge hammer! Also, a metal file isn't a proper tool for this job. Files can shatter if struck in general. Only use solid steel objects such as pry bars or chisels. Stay safe and thank you! Let me know if this trick helped you and about other cars it does or doesn't work on. If you haven’t subscribed already, please do. Also subscribe to Rust Belt Garage if you enjoyed the running commentary. th-cam.com/channels/shx1rLmk19dLVuTxY9_T9Q.html
It's the same principle no matter what, just have to open the joint angle then close it. You may need to do it opposite by dropping suspension, putting something in as a wedge, and then jacking up. Or just get a ball joint tool.
@@802Garage Yah i borrowed an air hammer from my friend and it popped out after a few tries! finished intalling all my parts. Went full Megan Race coilovers and arms etc.
@@ahdasick Awesome! Air hammers can do great things, I just know not everyone has an air compressor and access haha. I'd be interested to hear how you like the MR coilovers!
Any time I beat on a control arm like this, after about 15 different athletic attempts and strategy’s when the last one works I try that first on the next one. Just to be disappointed that it didn’t work this time 😭🤣
@@802Garage I’m looking for a way to do this but the unserviceable ball joint is connected the other way, horizontally so gravity doesn’t help me. Have oxyacetylene, big sledge, press tools, no avail. Got one side out so I know it’s possible but damn you would think they are really just one piece the way it doesn’t move. I’m a big guy, can hit very hard. Any idea for a ball joint that has horizontal orientation?? 95’ sc400
@@dackbowland1876 I just looked it up and that is a weird setup! I see there is nowhere to get the leverage you need. My advice would be a ball joint puller tool like they show in the DIY Guide for Lower Ball Joints on Lexus Club. I would lube the hell out of the stud area, heat and cool the arm where the knuckle goes in multiple times, then install the ball joint press tool with a lot of pressure, heat the arm again, then smack it with a hammer repeatedly. If it doesn't come out, I mean damn there's not much else to do other than maybe heat and a crazy powerful air hammer or remove the entire arm and put it in a press. The only other option would be to cut the ball joint off where the boot is and try drilling some holes in it to relieve pressure and push it out with the ball joint press tool.
@@802Garage you’re right. Probably have to take out the whole knuckle and drill/press on bench. My only fear is then if something goes wrong with the 27 year old upper control arm, subframe need to come down in order to replace that one. What a pain. Oh well.
The men in our family were beating on that thing for half a day. I decided to look for how to videos. Came across yours. Showed the guys, they had it off 10 minutes later. Thank you!!! Your trick is awesome.
Hahaha THAT is amazing. Probably my fav comment so far. Thank you and really glad it helped!
Pounded on my 2008 Impreza from New England for a couple hours before finding this video. Had both ball joints out of the steering knuckle in under 15min each using the trick! Awesome! Thanks again!
That is too awesome. Love getting these comments. Has been such a massive time saver for me. Thanks!
Three days of trying to get this done! Thank you sir!!!! Finally got it out. I even heard the pop!.
That's awesome you're very welcome. The pop is super satisfying. 😁 Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the awesome tip! After my husband fought with our Honda Civic for an hour trying several ways to try to get the ball joint separated from the control arm, we decided to check TH-cam and found your very helpful tip. After trying this with a metal wedge and then impacting with a 5lb hammer, it broke free!
Thanks much for the comment! Very glad to help.
I spent hours today trying to pry my old ball joint out. Finally found your video and after a couple drops the thing popped out! Thank you!
Heck yes thanks for the comment!
You just saved my life. Would've been hammering away at this thing for 4 more hours, your trick fixed it in 2 minutes
Too awesome! Really appreciate the comment.
Thank you!!! After 3 hours I was ready to drive it to a shop to have them do it, but I was worried that the balljoint would collapse on the way there. I searched TH-cam and found your video, thank goodness. I used impact sockets as wedges, it took 3 ‘drops’and it worked! Thank you again! You should get a reward on TH-cam for the most helpful video!
Heck yes! Love comments like this. Happy to help. You can use the same trick to pull the joint from the socket as well. Just partially thread the stud nut back on, like most of the way. Remove the pinch joint bolt, spread the clamp a tiny bit with a chisel be gentle, and then perform the drop trick again!
@@802Garage Got the driver's side out but the ball joint is stuck on the passenger side, it's not coming out after 12 drops with the stud threaded on the control arm. I did get a big cracking sound on the first drop but the top of the ball joint is still fully seated up in the socket and it's not moving when I take a 4 lb sledge to the control arm. The wedges I'm putting in have made small dent in the control arm after so many drops. The pinch bolt has been removed, I'll try spreading the pinch clamp a little bit as you suggested. I'm also going to buy a wedge for splitting wood at Harbor Freight and will try that as a wedge instead of impact sockets. Thanks again.
@@802Garage Also, somehow in the midst of all of the drops the rotor is now turned to the right about 20 degrees while the driver's side rotor is pointing straight ahead. Not good. Do you have any idea what happened? I think it happened after I moved the rotor around by hand, pulling the bottom of the rotor toward me. Did I pull out the inner tie rod or the inner CV joint out of its socket by moving the rotor around? Any advice you can give would be much appreciated!
After 2h of hammering the bjoint on SubOut I was about to zip disk and drill this thing out. Came across your video and in ~10min on a 3rd try it came out. Thanks again guys !
Dude it freaking works!! A buddy of mine and I were having such issues, found this video, and it worked first time! Sounded so good 👌🏻
Hahaha I am so happy to hear it! Literally this trick has saved me hours. The crack is actually satisfying. Thanks for the comment!
Is it bad that I lifted it by the wheel hub ? I had already taken off the rotor . Did I damage anything? Also I separated that rubber boot from the bottom of the control arm and grease oozed out?
Nah shouldn't have damaged the bearing or anything it handles way more force than that. If you mean the rubber boot on the ball joint, yes it's there to contain grease. As long as you didn't pierce the boot and can put it back on, the ball joint should be fine. If you are replacing it, it doesn't matter anyways.
This worked mint on my 04 FXT. We're square in the middle of the rust belt and the pickaxe/sledgehammer method took about 4 tries before finally cracking it loose. Youre a life saver lol
Really really glad to hear that! Always saves my bum as well.
No way, literally just did this after I lost all hope, and turned to youtube for help. Worked perfectly 1st go, thank you so much.
Amazing! Love to hear it. 😁
What did you wedge between the ball joint and control arm?
@@jamesroseboro2764it’s been a while, but I think I used a wrecking bar. It’s just what I had on had that was the right size to fit between the components.
Yes It Worked ! Wooo Weee, thanks so much . My 04 Honda Civic ball joint was seized up; it popped & broke free on the first drop !
That's awesome thanks for the comment!
Works a treat, had a super stubborn on my skoda octavia, this sorted it in no time
Glad to hear it!
This worked for me on my daughter's 2003 Accord. Struggled for two hours and then came inside, scanned TH-cam for a better way, found this, and when I tried it it worked the first time. Thanks!
Awesome I love to hear it!
I don't normally comment on videos but need to here. I bent my expensive balljoint splitter and spent over an hour messing about. Watched this video, tried the method and it was off in 5 mins. So easy. Thanks
So glad to hear it! This has been me y experience as well. Many people will just tell you to use a pickle fork or a ball joint separator tool and I simply respond that they have never encountered a truly stuck ball joint, hahaha.
I cant thank you guys enough for this video, I spent hours banging on the control arm with no success. This trick worked on the first attempt itself. I did the control arm first to use astro pneumatic subaru balljoint puller, that did not work as I dont have any impact guns then Iput the control arm back with castle nut on this time and used your technique again to get the balljoint too. Thanks a ton my friends for this video.
I know exactly how you feel and I'm super happy to help! I wish I had covered using the trick to pull the joint from the knuckle as well, but I always tell people to do exactly what you said. Good job!
Life saving video right here!! Used a 25mm open end wrench, fit perfect between the a arm and knuckle dropped the jack and heard the most satisfying cling of all time lol
That's awesome! It really is super satisfying.
Dude. Whooped that control arm for like 2 hours trying to get the ball joint out. This took 10 minutes per side, not even. Thank you for saving my sanity. My car is 2010 WRX for anyone wondering, 236k and rusted to piss and this worked
So glad to hear it! This really is the best trick I know for Subaru. Works even better than the ball joint tools. Really appreciate the comment! I know your pain.
This gentlemen, has finally solved my issue. Three days of torching, blasting, freealling, pounding, jacking, and repeating.... thank you.
Very welcome glad it worked!
I had to modify the process but this method saved me a huge headache!! I wedged a file in there and then jacked up the a arm. Thanks!!
Awesome glad to hear it! Just to note, I still don't recommend using a file. Wish I hadn't in this video, hahaha. Just happy I helped though.
Very impressive! I’ll keep this in mind next week when I have to replace a front wheel bearing.
Love to hear it!
My boyfriend was so stressed until he found your video! Banging away at that thing until pickaxe time made it all better!! Thank you!!!
Hahaha that's awesome thanks so much for the comment!
I have been trying to get my ball joint unstuck for 2 days. My neighbor whose family were coal miners just gave me a pix ax. He said cut the handle off i have plenty. Gonna try it today. Keep u posted 😊
Hahaha I love that really hope it works.
Fricken life saver!! It worked! Been pounding for an hour and that worked in a minute!
Awesome to hear! I know the frustration. Thanks for the comment.
2010 Mazda CX 9 took about 6 tries popped right out it was really seized used a fork and a pry bar. Thank you!
@@bobbymholloman4191 That's awesome thanks for the comment!
I really appreciate your videos. I like that you add a vlogging personality to it and your sense of humor in the videos and your comments. You seem like a good and happy dude which I find helpful in car maintenance troubles.
I’m so grateful to people who make these videos. Honestly it’s the difference between a lot of us being broke or more broke from paying for shop costs! Haha.
Hey just did this on a 1999 outback. The passenger side was the original ball joint. As a geologist I used a geology hammer instead of a pick axe. Worked first try. So much thanks.
Hahaha that's awesome thank you!
OH MY GOD you saved my life. I attacked mine for like 2 hours with a ball joint fork and sledgehammer before trying this method. Thanks and subbed!
So happy to hear it! I made a TikTok video on this and you should see how many comments say "just use a hammer" or "pickle fork" and so many are condescending. I'm like... You clearly have no idea what rust can do. I've been in your spot and this trick saved me. Glad to help!
This is the best way I’ve seen. Fought a ball joint for over 2 hours with a mine sledge, full sledge, prybar, penetrating oil you name it we tried it this worked the first time on both sides!
Thank you!!! I know the exact struggle you were going through and that's why I made this video. I have not found anything that works better including a ball joint separator tool. Really glad it worked for you and thanks for the comment!
My son and I have been working on his 2003 Ranger Edge and we’ve tried everything. Except this. Lol Here goes...
Been oiling that sucker dor 2 days in a ram 🤦♂️
Brilliant! Worked first try!
I love to hear it.
What did you wedge between the ball joint and control arm?
OK, thanks you guys! It took a ten pound sledge and some solid hits, but your pickaxe trick worked on my stuck truck ball joint. Beating on it with a large ball peen hammer wasn't enough. Large sledge necessary. Had to stack a large chisel on the side of the pick to take up space and keep the pick in place. Thanks for your help!
Wow that's insane! Def as bad as the one in this video or worse. I recently made a TikTok vid about this trick and it popped without any hammering necessary, which is more normal. Really glad it helped and thanks for the comment!
@@802Garage yeah I really appreciated that video, I was at my wit's end. we have a serious mag chloride problem here in the mountains of Colorado and it corrodes parts like you wouldn't believe.
This trick is awesome! Was thinking about how to apply a lever and this is the best way so far. I had a really stubborn ball joint. I broke one ball joint separator tool. Then was hammering pretty hard. Then used your method: jacked the wheel, inserted 24mm socket, and released the jack. It still didn't come, but I only hammer once and not hard from the top, similarly to how you did on the pick axe, and just got it! Nice stuff. Just make sure that pressure is applied to the solid part of the socket.
Anyways, now I know why they are selling pick axes at Harbor Freight.
That's why the comments about ball joint separators make me laugh. Those people have clearly never seen one break when a joint is too stuck. Absolute worse case scenario you could combine this trick, a ball joint separator, heat, and another hammer, and I'm sure almost any joint would come apart. Thanks a lot for the comment!
@@802Garage I'd add a rotary hammer probably on top :) Obviously, with the rotary function turned off.
Thank you very much. Greetings from Germany.
Helped a lot with the ball joints of the control arms on my BMW E36.
That's awesome! Super glad it helped and good to know it works for an E36. Always loved them!
Well, I was beating mine Legacy for two hours.... than I watched this video, did what I saw and BAM!! First time succes... just had to do it twice to get it all the way out. So thank you very much
Awesome! Love to hear it and thanks for the comment.
I'll be needing this trick this week. From reading other comments it's probably going to be a life saver. Liked and subscribed. Thanks!
Thanks a ton! Hope it helps.
Man I was out here beating on this thing for like an hrs and this worked in like a second thank you
@@mgvaper Heck yeah!
Guys, thank you so much for sharing your expertise.
I was just about to give up and take this to the garage until I saw your video. Was difficult to find a notch to jam something in but with the wheel jacked up I was able to squeeze in a file like yours, and drop it and after a bit more punishment had the BIG crack and it was free - new drive shaft installed and back on the road ( Volvo s40 - UK )
I OWE YOU !!
Heck yes that's awesome! Glad to hear it works on some Volvo models. I have a front spring for an S40/V40 on eBay that just won't sell hahaha. Wish you were in the States I'd send it for free in case yours snaps eventually. :P
Holy smokes! I just spent hours with a pickle fork and specialty ball joint separator tool with no luck. After watching your video, I jacked the suspension up by the brake disc (didn't feel great about that, but I don't think it did any harm), jammed an old file in there and let rip. Boom! She's off in a few minutes! Thank you!
Thank you! So many people say "Just use a pickle fork." or "They make a tool for that." I'm just like, you clearly have not actually encountered a really stuck ball joint, so stop talking and learn something. Jacking up by the brake disc is fine as long as you didn't bend the dust shield and ideally you secured it with a lug nut. Either way, job done!
this method works. i have used it for 40 years
Omg!! Two days of this madness!!! Prospector method did the trick! We felt your pain, bro! Thank you!
Hahaha OMG thanks so much for this comment. Really glad it helped!
I had success jacking up the control arm until the space opened up between the control arm and knuckle was at the maximum. Then I pounded in a pickle fork and jammed in a flat scrap metal spacer between the tines of the pickle fork and the control arm to fill in all the loose play. I lowered the control arm slowly and it freed it ball joint the first try, after nothing else had worked. This is a great method!
Awesome! I've had to get creative like that as well. Thanks for the comment.
After hours of bashing, pulling, scratching my head and cursing I’d given up. Then I saw your video. Got it off in 10 minutes. This is one hell of a trick. Thanks so much for sharing it.
It's crazy right?! So glad to hear it!
Thank you. For making this video was fighting a stuck ball joint. And ended up going the pick axe route dam it worked well. Saved having to wait to go get tools. Thank you guys.
Haha that's awesome glad it worked! Gotta get medieval sometimes.
I was cringing seeing you hit a file but damn, this trick actually worked! (didn't use a file). Life saver.
Hahaha, yeah you aren't the first to mention that. It was just an old piece of scrap metal to me. Usually they don't fight that hard, but now I just go straight to the pickaxe every time. Glad it helped!
@@802Garage I was at my wits end and couldn't actually believe it! Thanks again.
@@toxaq Haha exactly what this trick is for! Thanks for the comments. :)
Thx man it worked, i thought i had tried everything. Never gonna forget this trick
THANK YOU SO MUCH! After wasting an hour plus on side one, we called it a day on side two, when it was more stuck than the first. Found this video and tried it on side two. F'ing MAGIC!!! Took two hits, the first we saw 1/4"+ movement, enough that our first insert bar was now loose (happy dance), needed a thicker item to insert, one more drop and boom!
That's so awesome! I am loving the comments on this video. People on TikTok said "just use a hammer" and I told them to have fun hammering for an hour if they live in rusty areas. All these comments are exactly what I've gone through, hahaha. Happy to help!
Dude thank you so much!! New England car too hammering for hours on control arm, ball joint end with nut on the end, hell even jacking up the whole car on the ball joint end didn’t even loosen it while hammering. That worked in literally 2 seconds. Thank you! Wish I knew this trick before would have saved like 3 hours
Hell yeah I love to hear it thanks for the comment!
I had to smash that like button because you just got my 40 year old Vanagon to comply!! Thank you!
Awesome! Love to hear it. :D
Subaru needs to put this into their repair manual! Was trying everything to get the ball joint loose for 2 hours - swinging a 4lb sledgehammer, hammering in chisels and pry bars with no luck. After all that, it took 3 drops of the suspension and ball joint popped right out of the knuckle!
Hahaha love to hear it! You should see how many people on TikTok told me "just use a hammer" or "swing your purse at it" like there isn't a reason for the trick.
Honda as well :))
This is great! I'll be trying this today on my sons 97 Nissan Hardbody. I haven't gotten any of them to break loose. Any help for the uppers?
Thanks! For the uppers you can try the same trick if there is a good spot to jam something between the arm and knuckle. Just instead of dropping the suspension, jam it in place and then jack it up. Jack it until there is a lot of pressure on it, but don't life the vehicle. Then hammer on the knuckle or arm, and hopefully the force plus the shock will pop it.
Bro, you can not even begin to comprehend how much I appreciate you and this quick jack drop trick. Thank you!
You're so welcome I really appreciate the comment!
Impressive Video. Entertaining. Now I have a 2011 Toyota Rav 4. Very little, if any, room to insert anything. I'm done ''bezelling off'' the nut. Thought it would just drop. Nothing. Hammered it, use a pickle fork, separator, more hammering...nothing. What would you realistically suggest inserting in there?
Well if you can get one side of the pickle fork in further without going around the ball joint stud, that could be an option. Otherwise perhaps a crow bar of some sort? An axe head? Part of a hammer? Will have to get creative.
@@802Garage I did...got a bigger pickle fork and let it rip with my hammer. Came flying out after 2 tries...Thanks
@@HartsGap Sweet!
Beat it, heated it, sprayed it, beat it again...this thing was stuck. Saw you video and had both sides off in 5 minutes. Great trick. A file may be too brittle so I tried the handle of a crecent wrench but settled on the handle of a square chissel.
Awesome I love to hear it! Thanks for the comment.
This happens to my truck lower control arm ball joint EVERY time I need to remove it, and it's not corroded...just always a pain in the ass...
Yeeep gotta love it! I love small tricks that can save a ton of time.
good but that ball joint rubber gaitor will be no good now, so new balljoint?
Actually one of the best parts about this trick is it doesn't damage the boot. Unlike using a pickle fork, for example. Sure, if you are very uncareful you could damage the boot, but I never have. At most it usually just pushes it aside a bit. :)
Amazing. Spent probably hours whacking at it and this does it in 5 minutes.
@@crtme Isn't it crazy?
Any trick to put new one in without messen it up?
If you jack up the whole front of the car and/or disconnect the sway bar it becomes significantly easier to push the control arm down to push the stud in. I usually step on it. Can also use a metal rod as a lever if you can find a good pry point. I always grease the knuckle where the joint goes in upwards to prevent future rust. Also grease the hell out of the clamp split so the bolt doesn't rust up later.
@@802Garage I gotta 95 ecoline turd I need to do it too lol thank man
@@HornsHustle Ohhh aren't those press in? In that case I recommend picking up one of these.
amzn.to/3oaLMBj
@@802Garage right thats what I was tryna avoid lol was worried I'd have to get one so I don't mess it up putting it back in like probably get it out just putting it back in would be a pain
@@HornsHustle The tool is used to press the old one out and the new one in. I don't have a tutorial on my channel yet, but there are plenty out there. You can also rent the tool, but if you know you'll use it more in the future, I usually just buy it.
Any suggestions for the pitman arm / drag link BJ? I have broken two BJ separators.
If there is any way to jam something between the ball joint and what you are trying to separate from it and then turn the steering to add force, it should work similar to this. Like if you can drive a wedge in between with a hammer, and then turning the wheel one way decreases the gap size. You can even turn the car on and use the power steering to give you a ton of mechanical advantage. Otherwise, penetrant, heat, time, vibration.
@@802Garage Yep. Tried that plus.
So far I have tried.
Manual Pickle Fork and hammer.
Heat from Propane Torch and Manual Pickle Fork
Hammering on the Pitman Arm while Pickle Fork was wedged in
BJ Separator - shattered the pin and stripped the threads. Had to cut it off with an angle grinder.
Larger BJ Separator - stripped the threads
Heat from Propane torch plus Air Hammer with a Pickle Fork
I feel like I am out of options.
Thanx for the trick. Really helped. Still sucked on the 04 Subaru Forester
You're welcome! Glad it helped.
@@802Garage the trick truly saved me so much time. I was basically stuck until I found the video. So truly I greatly appreciate your time effort in helping all of us.
@@joshwilkins606 Love to hear it! It has saved me a ton too. :D
I gotta say smart man, I was having trouble and I put a chisel from harbor freight and works perfect thanks a lot man
Glad to help! If you need to get the joint out of the knuckle, you can put the stud back through with the nut on loose and repeat the trick after you pull the pinch clamp bolt.
@@802Garage thanks a lot man, for now just needed to remove the knuckle. I’m doing a lift kit swap on my 2004 Sierra
First try no more than 10 seconds and I felt like I was the new guy hahah
@@warrior78fb Ah gotcha. Glad it worked for something non-Subaru. My advice above is fairly Subaru specific. When you finally get it to break free is the best feeling! 😌
@@802Garage yeah man thanks again, works perfect and you be surprised someone else’s way can go a long way for someone else like me 👍🏻
It worked, I love you, you’re the man!!!
Best feeling! Thank you for the comment. Did you come from TikTok by chance? You're welcome!
Needed a new axle on a Japanese rust bucket shirt box of mine... Used penetrating oil, torch, hammering, you name it for 3 hours. The ball joint nut just snowed rust and wouldn't budge, so I almost gave up. Finally went good ole West prospecting' with a camping axe like in the video and "KARRACK" saved the day! Had the new axle in the next 10 minutes. Thanks!
Hahaha yesss! We love to see it. Prospecting works. 😁
Very cool. Have to do a 2003 Taurus wednesday and trying to preemptively create success. Thank you guys.
Like the trick but my 98 devilles ball joint stud is pointing upward the reverse that trick will not work on deville
Def won't work on all vehicles. For an upward pointing joint if there is a good spot to stick a tool for leverage, you can put the tool in between the arm and knuckle and then jack the suspension up to create the leverage force. Hope that makes sense. Not an instant fix, but may help with the hammering!
That's bad ass I jacked them up before thanks for the tech I hate rusty cars.. do yall have any tips on the wheel bearing I have a air hammer and any tips on pressing ball joints in
I actually have tutorials on my channel on both pulling and pressing in new wheel bearings. So check those videos out if you want and make sure to check out the note in the description or pinned comment. If you mean Subaru ball joints specifically, they don't need to be pressed in, just pushed in and then bolted. In general for pressing and wheel bearings you're going to want to get a wheelbarring press tool that either goes around the control arm and pushes on the back of the ball joint or that pulls it through using the threads of the ball joint.
That was a moment of pure victory when it broke free.
Hahaha I was amazed how stuck this one was!
Did you remove the crown nut before doing this? I was trying to look closely and I didn't see the crown nut.
I leave it partially threaded on usually. You have to loosen it to pull the stud though of course. You can also use this trick to pull the ball joint from the knuckle by removing the pinch bolt, threading the castle nut back on, and repeating the trick.
Used the astro pneumatic puller today and it ripped the threads right off the ball joint. It is stuck in the knuckle. Got the castle nut threaded back on so going to give this a try tomorrow.
I have one of those two and I usually end up using this method, partially for that exact reason! Worry about losing the threads or pulling the ball out of the joint.
Let me know if it works! Can always add a vise grip gor some extra support or weld the nut on I suppose. Then cut it off later.
It worked! Huge thanks man. Had to use a variety of different sizes in the gap but eventually it let loose.
@@85mmonroe Haha there you go glad to hear it!
Mate your video saved me yesterday. I would have never separated the the old ball joint. Luckily I had a pick ax in the shed 😄
Hahaha it's amazing you actually used a pick ax too. Thanks for the comment!
Like so many other Subaru owners had to replace my control arm bushings, the stuck ball joint on the control arm stopped me cold, was going to take it to a shop let them fight with it. After looking at your cool trick to pop that bad boy loose I'm going to attack it again. I'm sure it will pop off, good one 892 garage !!!!
Thank you really hope it worked for you!
Ball joint separator makes life easier. Good investment thus far. Many joints popped.
Agreed. a nice one can be pricey though. A lot of the cheap ones would have snapped trying to remove that passenger ball joint. Most people don't know how to take advantage of the cheap ones too, by just applying a lot of tension and then hammering the suspension arm like normal. This method works well in a pinch or when you don't have the right tools. I've had to do plenty of jobs there is a right tool for with all the wrong equipment! Hahaha.
But how do you remove the entire ball joint from the knuckle for replacement? This is only half of what I am struggling to accomplish. Removing from the control arm is the easy part.
You can use the exact same method. Remove the pinch clamp bolt. If it is hard to remove, lubricate and heat repeatedly and try again. If you break it, drill it out. You can replace it with a bolt and nut. Once the pinch clamp bolt is removed, spread the pinch clamp slightly with a chisel or hefty screwdriver and a hammer. Don't go crazy, just a tiny bit of spread. Put the ball joint stud back in the control arm and tighten the nut most of the way, but not hard obviously. Repeat the trick and it should pull the ball joint from the knuckle. Remove the nut on the stud, remove joint. Hope this helps.
Works gtreat on lower A-arm ball joint, but how do you remove a seized TIE ROD BALL JOINT?
Watched.
Went to shed, grabbed sledge & ⛏
Thanks for posting. Works🍾
That's amazing. Thanks so much for the comment!
Had to come back and give a big thanks 2015 Chevy sonic it was rusted in there 3 hours of beating and cussing, I found your video used a flat pry bar for nails all I had dropped the rotor and bam came half way out after a few more drops it was out, got the new one in after cleaning in about 20 minutes. Thanks for the tip ❤
@@hogglegg420 That's awesome! Glad to help. Thanks for the comment. 😁
Now that's an effective way to strike gold with auto repairs! We got to all remember to use a pickaxe when it comes to digging deep for them auto repairs! Great performance guys!
Hahaha dang straight! Thanks a lot. 😁
This is the neatest tip I have ever seen Worked first time..Thank You
Bossss! We love to see it.
Best editing I've seen on a mechanic instructional video
Haha well thanks very much! I hope I've only improved since filming this. 😁
That was a really stuck joint. I had a joint get stuck to my lip once. But that's another story. I'm enjoying your workshop vids, mate. Very informative for newbie home-mechanics. EDIT: I still call them castellated nuts. Same thing. And for trivia sake, they are so-named because they look like the top of a castle parapet. Hence the name being modified to 'castle' nut.
That sounds awful! Castellated nut is the right term, isn't it? I think I just say castle for short. What did I say in the video? Lock nut or something? Should start calling them rook nuts just to confuse people. :)
Careful not to burn your lips! Lol
Thanks so much.... I was not having a good time... watched your video and was done first try after!
Boo yah! Love to hear it.
Mine was stuck just like this and it popped right out doing this. Thanks for the tip.
Super glad to help!
Actually worked a treat! Thanks man! Did it on my yamaha rhino 660.
Hah that's awesome! Thanks for commenting.
This worked for me thank you guys 🙏🏻
Very welcome!
That’s awesome. Thank you! Been trying to get this apart for hours!
Very welcome! Bit of leverage and banging. 🤭
Im having the same problem on my 98 honda prelude driverside. I gave up for now
It can be a huge pain! Get a pickle fork and a torch. Hammer the pickle fork in and heat the stud. Do that several times and eventually it will come free. Just another suggestion.
I was ready to take my 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis to the garage. Then I saw your video. Worked in dislodging the ball joint from the lower control arm and my file didn't break. Unfortunately the stud remains seized in the control arm. So some progress thanks to your video.
Oof! Progress is progress. Hope you got it eventually.
have you ever experienced damage to the rotor? Thank you for the video.
From jacking up by it? Nah definitely not and I've done this a lot.
Thanks for the comment.
i have damaged a rotor using a press to raise the car.
Thanks for the tip.
Sketchy but got the job done. Don't let the rotor spin and slip off the jack when you don't expect it, happened to me!
Yes I probably should have taken more time to advise people to be careful and do so at their own risk etc. Good call on the rotor, def gotta pay attention. You can jack it up by the ball joint stud as well which I do often.
Now I have to wander the neighborhood looking for a broken pick ax. Mine is half way out and it won't budge.
An axe head or a big metal stake might work too, hahaha. Got any railroad spikes? :P
Great video! If you don't have a pick axe handy, a 4" C clamp works really well too. The "top" of the C tapers just like the pick axe and can be wedged in there similarly. Likely takes up less space too if you don't have the car jacked up very high.
Oh love that thanks a lot!
After spending around 8 hours trying to murder out my ball joint by splintering wood on the top of the control arm and blasting it with a pickle fork countless times. This is the method that worked immediately! Took 5 minutes tops. You are a genius. Thank you 🤘🏻
Eyyy! That's awesome. Thanks a lot for the comment. Been really glad to hear about this helping people since I have been through the same struggle many times.
Thanks. Ended up cutting the stud off.
If it works it works!
Hey bro, your hack saved my day haha! i cant get mine out and when i watched your video it was easy
We love to see it! Awesome.
now how do you get the ball joint out of the pinch knuckle?
You can actually use the same trick! Remove the pinch clamp bolt, which yes I know can be a pain. Heat, beat, lube, and drill out if it breaks. Spread the pinch camp slightly with a chisel, only slightly. Put the nut back on the ball joint stud and tighten very lightly. Repeat the trick, and it should pull the joint from the knuckle. Good luck!
I did this morning and I ended up with the BALL getting out of the ball joint, so I have to find a mechanic solving the mess.
@@wegeenan6006 Ouch. That's a seriously bad ball joint then. Was about ready to fail. Bummer.
@@802Garage Really, the ball are very shinny and no rust on it. When I check the ball joint with pushing the wheel, it is quite solid so it seemed good. I don't know if it is my fault(I did several times) or because of the ball joint is bad itself.
@@wegeenan6006 Very strange, but there have been cases of poorly manufactured joints in the past.
@@802Garage The ball joint is original one I believe. When I check it, the inside plastic layer feels good. I planed to change another ball joint to an aftermarket part because Honda doesn't sell ball joint seperately. Do you think Autozone's Duralast is a good choice? Thanks
*WARNING* Some concerned viewers noted, and I should have too: PLEASE wear safety glasses any time you attempt a job like this. Wear PPE whenever you use a sledge hammer! Also, a metal file isn't a proper tool for this job. Files can shatter if struck in general. Only use solid steel objects such as pry bars or chisels. Stay safe and thank you!
Let me know if this trick helped you and about other cars it does or doesn't work on. If you haven’t subscribed already, please do. Also subscribe to Rust Belt Garage if you enjoyed the running commentary. th-cam.com/channels/shx1rLmk19dLVuTxY9_T9Q.html
@pjd412 👍
my rear lower arm ball joint is facing towards the engine bay so how do i get leverage? i’m stuck rn lol
It's the same principle no matter what, just have to open the joint angle then close it. You may need to do it opposite by dropping suspension, putting something in as a wedge, and then jacking up. Or just get a ball joint tool.
@@802Garage dang wish i could send you a pic of it but its a pretty tight area and getting a joint remover tool on it has been difficult
@@ahdasick Sorry about that. Hope you got it.
@@802Garage Yah i borrowed an air hammer from my friend and it popped out after a few tries! finished intalling all my parts. Went full Megan Race coilovers and arms etc.
@@ahdasick Awesome! Air hammers can do great things, I just know not everyone has an air compressor and access haha. I'd be interested to hear how you like the MR coilovers!
Any time I beat on a control arm like this, after about 15 different athletic attempts and strategy’s when the last one works I try that first on the next one. Just to be disappointed that it didn’t work this time 😭🤣
Bahahahaha I feel this so much! This trick works every time for me even if I have to try it a couple times or hammer a lot.
@@802Garage I’m looking for a way to do this but the unserviceable ball joint is connected the other way, horizontally so gravity doesn’t help me.
Have oxyacetylene, big sledge, press tools, no avail. Got one side out so I know it’s possible but damn you would think they are really just one piece the way it doesn’t move. I’m a big guy, can hit very hard.
Any idea for a ball joint that has horizontal orientation?? 95’ sc400
@@dackbowland1876 I just looked it up and that is a weird setup! I see there is nowhere to get the leverage you need. My advice would be a ball joint puller tool like they show in the DIY Guide for Lower Ball Joints on Lexus Club. I would lube the hell out of the stud area, heat and cool the arm where the knuckle goes in multiple times, then install the ball joint press tool with a lot of pressure, heat the arm again, then smack it with a hammer repeatedly. If it doesn't come out, I mean damn there's not much else to do other than maybe heat and a crazy powerful air hammer or remove the entire arm and put it in a press. The only other option would be to cut the ball joint off where the boot is and try drilling some holes in it to relieve pressure and push it out with the ball joint press tool.
@@802Garage you’re right. Probably have to take out the whole knuckle and drill/press on bench. My only fear is then if something goes wrong with the 27 year old upper control arm, subframe need to come down in order to replace that one. What a pain. Oh well.
@@dackbowland1876 Sometimes it's one thing after another. 🥲