Nice vid. Doing mine tomorrow due to the throw out bearing. Have you done a vid or planing on doing one, bleeding the new clutch. I've seen in a few threads people are having problems bleeding the clutch.
If you try to bleed the clutch on your own without a pipe with a one way valve in it then it will be a very very long day. You can get one man brake and clutch bleeder that have a one way valve so only fluid can come out and no air can go back in, also remember the fluid needs to be topped off to the max or you'll bleed below the clutch and let air back in which sucks because then you need to bleed it through the entire line. I've never had an issue myself but I can see why you could...
Unless there are severe heat marks or cracks in the surface of the flywheel then it can just be cleaned with a bit of fine sandpaper or a scotchbrite pad. When you look at the procedures from the manufacturer for a clutch replacement they don't specify that the flywheel must be machined, it only says if necessary. Hope this helps and thanks for the comment!
No worries, thank you. I work at a truck dealership and in our industry we either get it machined or replaced. I don't work with cars, so I am not used to that side of things.
When I do a clutch on anything that has a dual mass flywheel, we just replace them and larger motors with higher torque or anything that carries sustained load or towing pretty much always needs machining... We only do commercial vehicles that are smaller lorries not articulated lorries 7.5t or less
Nice vid. Doing mine tomorrow due to the throw out bearing. Have you done a vid or planing on doing one, bleeding the new clutch. I've seen in a few threads people are having problems bleeding the clutch.
If you try to bleed the clutch on your own without a pipe with a one way valve in it then it will be a very very long day. You can get one man brake and clutch bleeder that have a one way valve so only fluid can come out and no air can go back in, also remember the fluid needs to be topped off to the max or you'll bleed below the clutch and let air back in which sucks because then you need to bleed it through the entire line. I've never had an issue myself but I can see why you could...
What grade oil do you put back in the box? Also do you know how much oil it takes?
API GL-4SAE 75W-80
2.6L total capacity
@@maxautouk thankyou, my nans clutch is slipping on hers so a job for me next week 👍🏼
@@maxautouk I heard they were filled from the plastic cap at the front of the gearbox? Also do you remember what tool is used to undo the drain plug?
All the best, hope you get on well with it!
@@maxautouk do you remember what tool you used for the transmission plugs to drain them and then refill the box?
I have a 2008 nissin micra can you tell me if it's cable or hydrolic please asap
It is hydraulic
Can it be adjusted?
@@maxautouk can it be adjusted ??
Sadly no it cannot be adjusted
No machining of the flywheel?
Unless there are severe heat marks or cracks in the surface of the flywheel then it can just be cleaned with a bit of fine sandpaper or a scotchbrite pad. When you look at the procedures from the manufacturer for a clutch replacement they don't specify that the flywheel must be machined, it only says if necessary. Hope this helps and thanks for the comment!
No worries, thank you. I work at a truck dealership and in our industry we either get it machined or replaced. I don't work with cars, so I am not used to that side of things.
When I do a clutch on anything that has a dual mass flywheel, we just replace them and larger motors with higher torque or anything that carries sustained load or towing pretty much always needs machining... We only do commercial vehicles that are smaller lorries not articulated lorries 7.5t or less
@@maxautouk sweet! Thanks for explaining that. Makes sense.
Hi. Is this an automatic box?
No this is a manual transmission