great work! With that plate on the bottom, you might consider a throttled air intake below the plate. It would pre-heat the air, and you could hook the butterfly up to a thermostat or bimetal air regulator. you want to keep enough air flowing in to keep the exhaust hot enough to prevent condensation, and also consider a condensate drain low point in the chimney if you don't want to run it that hot.
Awesome video. I'm getting ready to build a quad barrel furnace (2x2x2). Using leftover 2/2/4 aluminum wire to make a heat exchanger/boiler/duct system. I tear down old barns and have a bunch of tin I'll be using in fabrication and hearth/wall protection. Using 6" stove pipe, no diesel pipe here. Its going in my shop as well. I'm still designing the exchanger/boiler/blower but estimating 130,000 BTU for a 40x35 pole barn. One thing I'm doing is using leftover ceramic insulation blanket in my thimble and doing 22.5 angles out to a graduating 45 for flow. Also have a ton of copper I may add to the boiler. Boiler is for hot water (cleaning, showers, food, ect), humidity for my 150+ year old wood, air density, ect. I might have $100 in the whole thing. I may make a video but not too sure. Wish me luck and great job.
$15 for 15 cutting disks. Yesterday, I paid $350 for one 4 1/2" cutting disk. Ridiculous. Cool build. I Would like to see better pictures of the hinges. As that is where I'm at on mine, and a bit stuck.
you need to be very careful about using only metal in your discharge pipe assembly exiting the studded wall !! the steel plate you are using to mount to the studs will get a whole lot hotter than you think and can actually transmit enough heat to the studs to reach their kindling temperature and cause a fire !! The best way to exit your pipe is through a ceramic thimble that has a poured concrete frame around it mounted directly between 2 studs in your wall . this method will leave no chance of extreme heat from your flue causing any wood to reach it's kindling temperature and cause catastrophic results . I ran a flue through an opening in the ceiling between studs of a shop at my parents home when I was a young man and I even lined the studs with ceramic refractory fiber ( kaowool ) with an air gap between the wool and the pipe , and the wood still got hot enough that it began to ignite the wood floor into the upstairs. If I hadn't checked the flue before I left the shop for the night , I would have had a terrible fire !! That is why I always urge folks to always use a chimney thimble or a piece of ceramic chimney liner to exit their metal flue to the outside !!! I don't want to see anyone have a catastrophic fire like I almost did !!! thanks for sharing your build , and it's always nice to see more than 1 person sharing in the work !! I sometimes get frustrated doing all the planning , fabricating , welding , and thinking to get a project done !!! Looks like you've got a good crew of guys around you !!!
@@joelalleman9591 you didn’t pay attention. It’s double insulated like a normal thimble not just the flue only and not to mention I showed after burning for hours gets up to 100 degrees. No need to worry.
Lol. Chopped barrel. I can burn full length 24" logs in my barrel. That top barrel going to clog up with soot and ash and no way to clean it out. Should of left a removal lid with ring. Also any horizontal flu pipe will clog the same.
Damper in flu and rope seal in door be a big plus . Nice work
Looks good to me you did a fine job a real fine job yeah no complaints just watching your video it looks nice
Nice job! Can't beat the price! Thanks for sharing that with us!
Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching.
Looks way cool !Gotta have heat!I love mine,......30 years. Of burning wood.
Love that you give these kids instruction and help them along the way! Need that now days!
Doing my best to raise em in church, be respectful and know how to get your hands dirty and work. Thanks for watching.
Super, great job!!! Inspires me on making my own. Thanks for taking the time and effort to produce this video!!!
great work! With that plate on the bottom, you might consider a throttled air intake below the plate. It would pre-heat the air, and you could hook the butterfly up to a thermostat or bimetal air regulator.
you want to keep enough air flowing in to keep the exhaust hot enough to prevent condensation, and also consider a condensate drain low point in the chimney if you don't want to run it that hot.
@@thedavesofourlives1 good points. Thanks for watching and explaining
Great job, thank you.
Nice work
You guys are awsome, BAD ASS
Go check out us making it a waste oil burner. Was a game changer working in the winter.
@@AutomedicGarage will do that!
Hook a old turbo up to that beauty on a thermastat
Could you use JB weld instead of welding on any of these?
I wouldn’t. Jb weld is a temporary bandaid for most things to me.
You needed a heat exchanger scraper to clean the tubes
Awesome video. I'm getting ready to build a quad barrel furnace (2x2x2). Using leftover 2/2/4 aluminum wire to make a heat exchanger/boiler/duct system. I tear down old barns and have a bunch of tin I'll be using in fabrication and hearth/wall protection. Using 6" stove pipe, no diesel pipe here. Its going in my shop as well. I'm still designing the exchanger/boiler/blower but estimating 130,000 BTU for a 40x35 pole barn. One thing I'm doing is using leftover ceramic insulation blanket in my thimble and doing 22.5 angles out to a graduating 45 for flow. Also have a ton of copper I may add to the boiler. Boiler is for hot water (cleaning, showers, food, ect), humidity for my 150+ year old wood, air density, ect. I might have $100 in the whole thing. I may make a video but not too sure. Wish me luck and great job.
$15 for 15 cutting disks. Yesterday, I paid $350 for one 4 1/2" cutting disk. Ridiculous. Cool build. I Would like to see better pictures of the hinges. As that is where I'm at on mine, and a bit stuck.
I can send you some later tonight or tomorrow if you tell me where you want them sent.
Pretty slick
Nice job but the kit was cheaper for me I don't have a welder and all the metal you have so kit and stove pipe was cheaper nice job
Correct, if you don’t have skills and resources I’m sure buying the Chinese kit is cheaper.
you need to be very careful about using only metal in your discharge pipe assembly exiting the studded wall !! the steel plate you are using to mount to the studs will get a whole lot hotter than you think and can actually transmit enough heat to the studs to reach their kindling temperature and cause a fire !! The best way to exit your pipe is through a ceramic thimble that has a poured concrete frame around it mounted directly between 2 studs in your wall . this method will leave no chance of extreme heat from your flue causing any wood to reach it's kindling temperature and cause catastrophic results . I ran a flue through an opening in the ceiling between studs of a shop at my parents home when I was a young man and I even lined the studs with ceramic refractory fiber ( kaowool ) with an air gap between the wool and the pipe , and the wood still got hot enough that it began to ignite the wood floor into the upstairs. If I hadn't checked the flue before I left the shop for the night , I would have had a terrible fire !! That is why I always urge folks to always use a chimney thimble or a piece of ceramic chimney liner to exit their metal flue to the outside !!! I don't want to see anyone have a catastrophic fire like I almost did !!! thanks for sharing your build , and it's always nice to see more than 1 person sharing in the work !! I sometimes get frustrated doing all the planning , fabricating , welding , and thinking to get a project done !!! Looks like you've got a good crew of guys around you !!!
@@joelalleman9591 you didn’t pay attention. It’s double insulated like a normal thimble not just the flue only and not to mention I showed after burning for hours gets up to 100 degrees. No need to worry.
Lol. Chopped barrel. I can burn full length 24" logs in my barrel. That top barrel going to clog up with soot and ash and no way to clean it out. Should of left a removal lid with ring. Also any horizontal flu pipe will clog the same.