4 years ago I found your channel trying to find ways to make cheap barrel stove. We as family watch your video as soon it is posted. Thank you for great contents!
People just don’t seem to realize heating a big space with a tall ceiling will result in baking the upper level. Heat rises and although you are comfortable at ground level, the upper level is baking. Heating rooms with high ceilings require a lot of circulation.
Two things to consider line the bottom barrel with 1/2 thick fire bricks makes a big difference in stove operation and longevity. Second item paint the barrels black the heat will transfer better to the outside of the barrel; the black will bring the radiant heat to the outside. Don't get too close to the rafter with the stove pipe in the event of a flue fire you need triple wall pipe or 3 feet from any combustible surface. You did a good job on the stove.
@@exposingthetruth3821 I never burned out a drum stove, just an ash bed seems to work just fine. Besides, another drum is cheaper than buying firebrick.
Nice, I have a barrel stove at my cabin. It’s been there for 20+ years. I always make sure to add sand to the bottom up to the lower dampers. Few inches of sand saves the stove for years! Nice work man looks good!
As someone who is close to his dog, seeing your old pup on your lap brought a tear to my eye. I'm glad you've got a new little friend doing the same things with you.
consider adding an external air source to feed the stove. Like a 6" stove pipe thru the wall of the shop with a damper. Right now, you are using the warm air in the shop to feed the stove. That air has to be replaced with fresh air creating drafts. By taking fresh air from the outside you avoide these pitfalls. You will use less wood and feel warmer.
I have experienced the opposite. When it is -20 and below the sir is just too cold to make a proper burn. Went back to using a small 5/8" hose to add replacement air to the building
@@metalpolishshop Winter of 1966, Mendeltna Alaska, air temp minus 81 (REAL air temp - not fake "wind Chill"). Without question you're wrong Kevin, dead wrong, our barrel stoves ALL burned just fine. - Joe -
There are some reports that say using outside air is not beneficial. Assuming that those are incorrect and it is beneficial, how does the wood stove use less wood simply because the air supply is from outside?
@@dogwoodtales Look outside at you chimney when a fire is going. That column of smoke was recently warm air inside your shop. The warm air has been replaced by cold air being sucked into replace what went up the chimney. Supplying cold air to the stove from outside breaks this loop.
Great video! My friends and I built a similar design for our shop years ago. We didn't have the benefit of the kit, but as metal fabricators it wasn't a problem. The main differences in our design were 1) The lower firebox on ours was 1 1/2 barrels long. 2) The pipe from the fire box extended almost to the top of the upper barrel while the exhaust had a pipe reaching down to near the bottom. This forced the heat to linger in the upper barrel longer before exiting (with a damper on the outlet above). 3) we included a clean-out on the back of the upper barrel for the inevitable ash and soot that would accumulate over time. 4) We enclosed the entire unit in a sheet metal box with two openings: one high on one side and another low on the opposite. The shop was big, so we added a fan from a swamp cooler to the upper opening once the heat built up and ran it all day (we were not off-grid). We were able to keep the shop warm through the coldest winter months, and it was the favorite gathering spot!
My dad built one for his home...one for our ranch home 30 years ago. Put in basement. Kept the whole house ok! Our clean, new, heavy duty barrels came from my husband's plant. Best wood stove we ever had!
Seeing Ruger on your lap and seeing Ruby on your lap brought a tear to my eye. It’s hard losing a dog who essentially is a family member. They were happy tears, but I sure miss my Max. Thanks for the awesome videos.
Red poppy ranch is the best! I have watched since almost the beginning. There is not one single con about the videos to the people the music choice and the narration. Puts me in a place of peace.💚
My dad was a machinist 1948 , and had his own machine shop. He builds one for his shop. The difference with yours, he also cut the top drum and attached a square tubing insert in it. The square tubing was the same size as your bottom door. The top drum then would have a square hole all the way through. He would warm up some of his steel in the top drum or keep a warm teapot and food to keep warm. Merry Christmas.
Brings back good memories, my dad couldn't read or write but he was good at figuring things out. The first time I'd seen a double barrel shop stove was when he built one, door, inside baffles, exhaust pipe, air inlet, stand and that's what I can remember. I really miss him some days!
If you got a chance during the summer, you might want to flip the connector between the barrels. The way you’ve got it installed, looks like you’re going to end up with creosote drips/leaks at the joints. The upper section should always slide inside the lower section, not the other way around. Cheers!
That video four years ago is the reason why I found your channel in the first place. I’m still watching. Thank you so much for sharing your life story with us.
You should have built a wire grate wood platform in the bottom barrel took keep the wood off the bottom which should help the barrel last longer. You could've even put tubes completely through the top barrel making a heat exchanger type setup, and then put a fan on the back side to blow air through on those really cold days.
In the beginning of the video I did see some burned out grates on the floor. But you are correct. I how ever have two 55 gallon stainless steel barrels that I will be doing the same. S.S will out live me.
I KNOW this was 2 years ago !! You could have put a roll of copper pipe in that top barrel an had endless hot water too ! Provided you had a good water source ..
I was born and raised in Spokane and built a few wood stoves. When I worked for Case Tractor in Bend the shop manager gave me permission to modify the barrel stove. I added an air intake in the back of the stove using the 2" bung. It went up inside the pipe between and stopped at the edge of the 2nd barrel. There was a water culvert about 10 inches in diameter already in the 2nd barrel and a box fan mounted on the 2nd barrel to push air through and get it out. Firing up the stove after i modified it made a BIG difference. The culvert got red hot. The box fan melted because of the excess heat generated by adding air. The guys in the far end of the shop said "I can feel the heat way over here!" Approximately 100 Ft. We did not change the amount of fuel we used just added air so we could burn it all. Adding air was all I did. The biggest problem with heat engines and things that make heat is NOT ENOUGH AIR
Just a suggestion - line the bottom of the lower barrel with firebrick, and burn the wood on top of the firebrick. It seems to me that the burn barrel would last longer that way.
I built one of these a few decades ago, and I lined the bottom half way up the sides with firebrick. It worked great. Never cherried the outside of the bottom barrel
Those are nice. Use one in a 40' x 64' shop. Used barrels with removable lids and built taller stand to set barrels on. Also put firebrick in bottom barrel. I've had it for 15 years now.
You can extend the life of the barrel by putting a little sand in the bottom to make a flat spot, then a layer of fire brick on top of that. You can even lay up some bricks on the sides.
Heath & Ruger awesome. I heard a line the other day. "The more time I spend with people, the more I realize I love my dog".... People are okay, but a pup gives 100% unconditional love !
My buddy from Houston made my father one similar to this, but it's out of steel, 25 years ago, dad's been gone for quite awhile now, but I got that heater still in the shop it's still workn fine, I like seeing glow cherry red (sometimes) not always, it's very heavy but I can always move it if I have to with our hoist on wheels. The legs on ours are 3' high and were easily able to remove the ashes, with a wheel borrow, he even made a grote that can be removed for cleaning and can be reinstalled. Excellent project partner, always helps beat the coldness, Thanks for sharing this with me. 😊🤠✌️👍.
I also built a double barrel heater almost the same as your heater. Only differences are that I notched a rectangular opening into the back of the top drum. Size of opening 3/8" x inside diameter of the drum at the center. I inserted a steel plate as wide as notch in the back of drum x 6" short of the drum height an welded it to the back entry notch, and along both sides to create a heat directional barrier plate. My connection from bottom to top was located on back of drum. I also lined the inside bottom of the bottom barrel with brick covering 1/2 of the bottom radius. This heater lasted me for just short of 15 years. Also did not have access to kit so I fabricated all that was required. It was built in summer of 1977. Your heater is well built unit. James karwacki
Highly inspiring! Warms up the soul to see your inner strength together with your wife. You are building not only material things although beautiful your main action is raising real human beings for a better world. Blessings 🙏
As a "city-boy" your way of life wouldn't be for me BUT the life you have built for your family off grid is inspiring! You are easily one of my favorite channels on TH-cam and I look forward to your videos every week
You better be getting out of the city if you know what's good for you, but it sounds like you don't. Just give it another several months. By this time next year you will wish you were not in the city.
We had a similar double barrel wood stove in our shop at work. Worked great. We lined the bottom barrel with fire brick. Stood an electric fan on the side of it to force the heat further from it and used it for many years. Cost all of about $20 in materials.
8:25 the lighting in there is awesome, just look how light and bright it all is. Just fitted 4 double strip lights in my shed, its so bright, its brill.
- I agree! I had an old 16” mounted in corner at the ceiling blowing down right at the exchanger barrel. It made the difference between a warm concrete floor and a cold one. Also speeds up the overall feeling of warmth throughout the area. I also did a cinder block fence filled with field stones around the stove.
They have ceramic bricks for the bottom as well. My husband tried the double barrel some years ago. He couldn't get it to draw correctly. Hope you have better luck.
Built one 3 years ago add sand to cover the bottom and it'll last awhile, mine is still working great. Recently bought a house with a double barrel stove already in the garage.
Great stove for the shop. Can’t wait for you to get the overhead door installed. Little drywall on the ceiling and some insulation blown in the attic and your set. Stay warm Heath.
1: Relocate that tool box and put it farther into the corner. Missing out on extra radiant heat from the concrete walls on 2 sides. Be sure you PROTECT those walls with heat reflective panels for maximum effect. 2: Routing the chimney up is good...but send it over to the wall 1/2 way down the stack. NOT right under a joist beam and through the "attic" spaces. Thats asking for a fire at some point unless its double walled and insulated to be fireproof in those spaces. Easier to mount, secure and insulate if its run up the wall. Plus any radiant heat from the stove pipe stack and reflected off the wall behind it. Dont cheap out and rely on the joints to seal themselves...get GOOD fireplace dope and seal those joints...and install a "cleanout" port above the top barrel. You NEED to sweep the chimneys to prevent fires. A cleanout port makes this trivial.
N0T just a clean out port for the chimney, but baked creosote flakes will also collect inside the top drum naturally and require removing. Use a quality chemical flue cleaner like "Saf-T-Flue"regularly.
I worked at a farm engineers yard at Faversham in Kent in 1981 and the owner had made one of these to run on old engine oil drained from farm machinery having services. There was a round metal dish in the bottom drum, near to the front opening, there was a four inch pipe joining the two barrels together at the other end and an outlet or chimney at the front end of the top barrel. no vent holes other than the front door and the chimney outlet. a copper pipe was brazed in through the side of the bottom barrel and into the metal dish. a piece of rag was put into the metal dish and soaked with engine oil and then lit. An isolating valve on the oil line feeding the dish, was used to regulate the flame. When the flame had been regulated, the barrels could be run at 'dull red', ideal for toasting bread on a toasting fork. An amazing amount of heat was produced and the flame adjusted so very little or no smoke was visible from the chimney. So heating a large workshop, cost him nothing! A brilliant idea! But not so environmentally friendly these days!
Great video! So happy to see Ruger and then Ruby on your lap enjoying the heat along with you 😊!!! Heath, do your heat source the way you want to...you know what’s best for your situation. I’m sure you will be “perfecting” it, as you always do with everything you work on. This video just gave us a glimpse of the great resource that you created! Keep up the amazing work!!! 😎😊🔥
Very nice! As a former Minnesotain, we used to do some trick welding in a center small barrel half the size in the second barrel and add a fan blowing through. Also, we used fireplace door cord everywhere to air tight it.
Bud the best thing to do, like I did is use refactoring mud and brick that is curved on the inside. I didn't know about this in the 1st one I built like you.......but the 2nd, I learned an incredible lesson to use the brick and mortar. I have a dble that is now 32 yrs ole!.
We’ve used a double barrel stove in our shop for 30+ years and depending on what you burn (rail road ties, rubber, oil, burn a lot dirtier) you shouldn’t have any issues getting that stove to draft. You from time to time have to climb up on the roof and drop a length of chain down and rattle it around to clean out the stove pipe should be about it. Good luck! If you wanted to get fancy I’ve seen guys weld some exhaust pipe horizontally through the inside of top barrel and run a fan on it to really maximize your heat output. Some other “homestead” type TH-camr did something similar.
nice setup there.. I always close the door after starting the fire, so It will huff and puff, and pull that air in to get the wood going....keeps my tent warm while hunting in the mountains.
I didn't notice in the video whether you added sand to the bottom barrel. I've ran these in my shop for the last 25+ years. I always put the door up as high as possible on the bottom barrel and that leaves me 3"-4" of room to add sand to the bottom of the barrel. I get 10 years out of the barrels before I have to rebuild. Mine is ran daily 7 months out of the year so it gets alot of wood ran through it. I'm on my 3rd set of drums now and I'm getting new ones for it next year. These stoves really work great.
I think you and your family are a credit to yourselves! I've been watching every episode for the last 3 years and to see the beautiful home you've made for yourself up in the snowy mountains is a tribute to the hard-work and immense effort you've all put in to making your venture a success. Happy holidays! - a loyal fan
Rarely have I heard music that is so peaceful on a video of this nature... so uplifting compared to the mindless rock that seemingly permeates everything from retail stores to sports in our culture. Thank you for a great video. God bless, Miles (BTW, my family and I live in WA State just 7 miles from the ID border. Considering our politics, I've often wished I lived about 8 miles east of here.)
Really surprised when you mentioned retaining more heat for the double barrel wood burner why you didn't add rocks to the second barrel. It would have been fairly easy to have a small metal grid so they don't fall down and use large rocks that would let the air flow through but still massively increase the heat retained hours after the fire has gone out. Just a thought.
Music selection and the old and new pup was everything to me in your video. We came here to build, thrive and live. Keep doing what your doing and hope rinse a second level in the shop some day. ✊🏼 Aaron, drum builder out of MN.
I built one of these from a kit about 40 years ago for my small body shop in KY. I lined my burn barrel bottom with sand and firebrick. I also welded in about 10 one inch tubes from end to end on the upper barrel and mounted a fan on the back to get more heat out of it. She would run you out of the building and was good in the winter when painting instead of the ceiling mounted gas forced air heater which blew dust everywhere.
holy crap...this is the first time ive ever heard someone doing the sand thing....i have the same setup in my shop including the sand and i used regular flat cinder flat blocks...in the summer i wire brush the bad spots off and spray with high heat stove paint to keep the summer rust down...no signs of rust through...and its been cranking out heat for the past 5 years...i also use a small cheap fireplace grate that i had laying around to give the wood some air underneath.... just put a window fan behind the stove elevated up about 7feet and angle it down toward the stove and let it blow...btw my shop is also in KY also.....Hillbilly ingenuity 💪
Greetings from Finland, I've enjoyed watching your journey since the beginning and am still in awe how wonderful it is...thank you for every week that I have a reason to get up and watch you and your family be so positive amongst this cluster f and hope we all can get back to normal asap, hugs to Ruby and everyone else, stay safe and healthy, may your Christmas be merry and bright!
Do this if you want to get more heat. In 1975, my friend in northern Idaho made a stove just like yours, with one big difference. The top barrel had a 16" pipe going through the middle. The exhaust pipe on the top barrel was located towards the front of the top barrel. That allowed the heat to circulate through the top barrel. He placed a 16" fan at the back of the hole in the top barrel. Heated his 40X40 shop with no problem. Even at -20 outside.
Drop the stack temperature too low and creosote will fill the pipe in a New York Minute. That technique was commercially produced by "Heat-o-lator" and the problem with them was that creosote formed on the pipes inside the stove and insulated the pipes from the heated gasses.
I have been following along since back before you poured the foundation. I dont think I have ever commented before. But just wanted to drop a note, what a story of challenge, struggle, success and adapting. And it all revolves around family. Merry Christmas y'all.
My parents had a double barrel stove as our main source of heat when growing up in Alaska. It seemed able to more effectively warm a cold winter house than any fireplace we have had since. It had 40+ feet of chimney and I don't remember it having any problems with draw, did have a couple stack fires though.
No need for the propane wand. Just do your first burn outside. To help them last, your can mist them with vegetable oil inside and out to season them and prevent rusting. Edit: You can make your wood last longer by drilling a hole near the top center of the bottom barrel and fitting in a double threaded 1/8 in pipe nipple, about 6" or stainless tubing then any water tight flexible tubing to an elevated 5 gallon bucket with a ball valve or spigot. You can put old motor oil or filtered cooking grease into the bucket and drip it into the stove allowing you to get the same heat with less wood. Another mod is welding a bunch of steel pipes through the top barrel to act as a radiator like in side of a train's boiler. Blowing air through them makes them even more efficient.
I made one of these 40 yrs ago. I slit the upper barrel and inserted a plate to make the flue gas make a 2nd pass in the upper barrel, welded the seam to make it gas tight. Worked great.
Another way you can heat your shop is with a compost heater using the underfloor piping you were talking about. Look up the Jean pain compost heater. Can last 18 - 24 months before you have to re do it and you end up with great compost for your garden at the end.
I remember that first one you built many years ago, that's how long I've been watching for 😯 and I've enjoyed everyone you have uploaded ( apart from the obvious one).
I have a similar stove set up. And I’m willing to bet that toolbox gets relocated. It won’t blister the paint but it will blister you every time you need a tool. Nice work
Heath, while religiously watching your videos, it just occurred to me that one of the best aspects besides the alignment with many of my own values was that the pace of your videos is just the perfect balance between time lapse and live to keep people simultaneously informed and entertained. Great work!
I made one of these 35 years ago. I took the drums outside to burn the paint off, and there was just a slight residue inside. When I took a match to it the flame shot up and melted the skin off my fingers (so be careful). Space it away from any walls and use fire resistant panels where necessary. They give off great heat and last a long time.
I made one of those for my shop in '74 and ended up working in a T-shirt with all the windows and doors open at minus 30. All I used for fuel was leftover sawdust and wood pieces. Sweet. Very sweet.
Without ceiling fans in this building, you will save a lot of money. Like in floor heating, heat will stratify... warm at floor level and starting to cool at head level. Why heat the high area above you? Use a ceiling fan if you have a lower ceiling, say 8 to 10 ft.
@@kevindawe9910 Where you live physics must be different Where I live heat rises.. Ceiling tempetures are higher than floor tempetures That is why ceiling fans have a reverse on then Blow down. Or. Suck up
Made this in the 70's also added small barrel with stand used a copper line with valve to drip used oil on wood to keep fire burning plus got rid of used oil and benifited from the extra heat, these barrel stoves really crank out the heat
My hunting gang used a drum stove for the hunting shelter. It was homemade and rough. Also we rigged a flat top and that was used to heat water. For cooking and washing. After ten years it is still in good shape. Love the barrel stoves
I'm 56 years old. In the late 70s early 80s when I was in the Boy Scouts of America. My scoutmaster Conrad Shriner built a stove identical to that and had in his shop where we had our Scout meetings. That design has been around for a long time.
While this video is two years old, I'm planning on building a shop, and I've decided to install a coil in either the walls of the stove or in the stack. So I could use the stove as the heater for heated floors. Then all I would have to run is a coolant pump for the floors. I had already planned out something similar using radiators for my camper. To prevent the coolant from boiling over a radiator could be used at the end of the floor loop as well to dump the heat at the end into the building. (The coolant pump idea came from some skoolies and it's what I thought about it for my camper as it's going to be solar aswell.)
Put pipes through the top barrel and a fan behind it, almost like an inside out radiator ? Or use the top barrel as a heat exchanger and use it to heat water for radiators ?
I worked in a 4000 sq. Ft. Machine shop years ago and the cost to heat it was crazy. We built a double decker wood stove out of old boiler tubes 3ft x 8ft. And put the tubes in the top barrel like The Singularity recommened along with a fan. Some 20 deg. days we would have the doors open because it would get so warm in the shop. Love your videos and hope you and your family have a merry Christmas
My dad built something similar almost 50 years ago to heat our house. It was made from a half oil tank with a welded metal lid, ice cream freezer door and oven racks inside to elevate the wood. He would later fine tune things by using an outside metal casing from a clothes washer to surround the stove and fill the space between with rocks to help retain the heat.
We took our local Boy Scout Troop on a weekend camping trip in mid January several decades ago. The trip was more of a chance to practice on some of the skills needed for the upcoming winter jamboree, plus a reward for the boys for a high number of advancements in ranks and merit badges earned at summer camp (the reward was a "pizza pig out", with 3 cases of pizza's, 25 pizza's to a case!). I remember the shelter we stayed in had a large area to put down sleeping bags and cots, and an area with a stove and kitchen, In the center of the shelter was a double-barrel stove. That thing put out so much heat you couldn't be near it, but it heated up the area very well.
I built using the same kit but used a stainless barrel. I love mine. I heard a tip that said that if you use a regular steel barrel to put sand in the bottom of it and it won’t burn out the metal as soon.
To start the fire on cold days add a small door in the vent pipe so you can add a little bit of kindling (newspaper works fine). By lighting this fires you heat the pipe, which will draw from the bottom chamber giving you the proper draft to start it. This is how it’s done in really cold environments (which Idaho is not) in older homes which were also build with heavy masonry stoves to retain the warmth. There’s a Russian guy on TH-cam showing how it’s done if you search for it.
I've noted that others have suggested sand to improve barrel life, and through tubes to improve heat transfer. One of the other things I've seen is a set of S curves in the chimney pipe itself. Basically anything to increase your radiate surface. And as others suggested move the fireplace more into the corner to help trap the radiate heat in the concrete so it can retain and radiate it back into the shop/room. A flat plate added to the top barrel would provide an additional heat radiator while providing a flat surface to heat water/food for work meals. If it was me I'd simply cut back a portion of the top barrel's top and fit a flat plate to provide the amount of flat space I wanted.
I have the same thing in my 1200 square foot shop, and it keeps me working in my T shirt all winter. I have an additional sheet of metal that hangs off the back about 1” of air gap between the back of the stove, hanging off bolts from the top barrel. That makes a huge difference in the amount of air circulation and the heat it puts off. Cheap and easy and makes a big difference.
I clean all the 20 chimneys on my farm each year and am always thankful for the ones that are straight. Do you need that zig zag near your roof? It’s so much easier to push a brush straight through instead of taking the pipe apart each year.
I am a professional fireplace installer. Single wall stove pipe must fit so each next section of pipe fits inside the previous pipe section so that any creosote will run down to inside of fireplace not outside of pipe. You have it backwards. Clearance to combustibles is 18". Look at your truss. You should locate fireplace in the center of the building.
Nice stove! They can put out a lot of heat too! The thicker the wall on the barrels, the longer they will last without burning through . Great job and your shop is warm throughout the winter regardless of how cold it can get outside. These are Very efficient stoves! Those Idaho winters can get brutally cold too! I lived next door in Montana and it was nothing to get down below zero farenheit during some of those snow storms. Some winters would get down to 60 below zero. A stove like this one is like gold in those kind of winters.
Happy you now have Ruby but still, share your memories of Ruger with us. He was such a beautiful dog. Thank you.
4 years ago I found your channel trying to find ways to make cheap barrel stove. We as family watch your video as soon it is posted. Thank you for great contents!
Good point. I am also guilty of this. lol.
Now that you have most of the big work for the shop done and given the pace you work at you deserve to take some time off.
My wife and I watch together as well. I love the music you put on!
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People just don’t seem to realize heating a big space with a tall ceiling will result in baking the upper level. Heat rises and although you are comfortable at ground level, the upper level is baking. Heating rooms with high ceilings require a lot of circulation.
The older shot with you and your old dog was beautiful and brought a tear to this old man's eye. Regards Jim UK
Two things to consider line the bottom barrel with 1/2 thick fire bricks makes a big difference in stove operation and longevity. Second item paint the barrels black the heat will transfer better to the outside of the barrel; the black will bring the radiant heat to the outside. Don't get too close to the rafter with the stove pipe in the event of a flue fire you need triple wall pipe or 3 feet from any combustible surface. You did a good job on the stove.
Mine is ash bed only and was built in 1996. Used every year for 6 months a year or more.
@@exposingthetruth3821 I never burned out a drum stove, just an ash bed seems to work just fine. Besides, another drum is cheaper than buying firebrick.
Nice, I have a barrel stove at my cabin. It’s been there for 20+ years. I always make sure to add sand to the bottom up to the lower dampers. Few inches of sand saves the stove for years! Nice work man looks good!
I like the sand idea…
Great idea!
Don’t need sand just let ashes build up and it does the same thing
@@larryjones8928 Nahhh sand better!!
Never thought of doing that with sand. Awesome!
As someone who is close to his dog, seeing your old pup on your lap brought a tear to my eye. I'm glad you've got a new little friend doing the same things with you.
broke my heart
I caught that immediately. 😥
What a friendship a man and his dog.
Good to see a good companion dog back in your lap in front of the fire.
consider adding an external air source to feed the stove. Like a 6" stove pipe thru the wall of the shop with a damper. Right now, you are using the warm air in the shop to feed the stove. That air has to be replaced with fresh air creating drafts. By taking fresh air from the outside you avoide these pitfalls. You will use less wood and feel warmer.
I have experienced the opposite. When it is -20 and below the sir is just too cold to make a proper burn. Went back to using a small 5/8" hose to add replacement air to the building
@@metalpolishshop As long as you are making up the air somehow is what matters. In your extreme climate you will have more things to consider.
@@metalpolishshop Winter of 1966, Mendeltna Alaska, air temp minus 81 (REAL air temp - not fake "wind Chill"). Without question you're wrong Kevin, dead wrong, our barrel stoves ALL burned just fine. - Joe -
There are some reports that say using outside air is not beneficial. Assuming that those are incorrect and it is beneficial, how does the wood stove use less wood simply because the air supply is from outside?
@@dogwoodtales Look outside at you chimney when a fire is going. That column of smoke was recently warm air inside your shop. The warm air has been replaced by cold air being sucked into replace what went up the chimney. Supplying cold air to the stove from outside breaks this loop.
Great video! My friends and I built a similar design for our shop years ago. We didn't have the benefit of the kit, but as metal fabricators it wasn't a problem. The main differences in our design were 1) The lower firebox on ours was 1 1/2 barrels long. 2) The pipe from the fire box extended almost to the top of the upper barrel while the exhaust had a pipe reaching down to near the bottom. This forced the heat to linger in the upper barrel longer before exiting (with a damper on the outlet above). 3) we included a clean-out on the back of the upper barrel for the inevitable ash and soot that would accumulate over time. 4) We enclosed the entire unit in a sheet metal box with two openings: one high on one side and another low on the opposite. The shop was big, so we added a fan from a swamp cooler to the upper opening once the heat built up and ran it all day (we were not off-grid). We were able to keep the shop warm through the coldest winter months, and it was the favorite gathering spot!
My dad built one for his home...one for our ranch home 30 years ago. Put in basement. Kept the whole house ok! Our clean, new, heavy duty barrels came from my husband's plant. Best wood stove we ever had!
Seeing Ruger on your lap and seeing Ruby on your lap brought a tear to my eye. It’s hard losing a dog who essentially is a family member. They were happy tears, but I sure miss my Max. Thanks for the awesome videos.
Red poppy ranch is the best! I have watched since almost the beginning. There is not one single con about the videos to the people the music choice and the narration. Puts me in a place of peace.💚
My dad was a machinist 1948 , and had his own machine shop. He builds one for his shop. The difference with yours, he also cut the top drum and attached a square tubing insert in it. The square tubing was the same size as your bottom door. The top drum then would have a square hole all the way through. He would warm up some of his steel in the top drum or keep a warm teapot and food to keep warm. Merry Christmas.
Thank you for being kind to the doggy. God Bless you.
Brings back good memories, my dad couldn't read or write but he was good at figuring things out.
The first time I'd seen a double barrel shop stove was when he built one, door, inside baffles, exhaust pipe, air inlet, stand and that's what I can remember.
I really miss him some days!
If you got a chance during the summer, you might want to flip the connector between the barrels. The way you’ve got it installed, looks like you’re going to end up with creosote drips/leaks at the joints. The upper section should always slide inside the lower section, not the other way around. Cheers!
That video four years ago is the reason why I found your channel in the first place. I’m still watching. Thank you so much for sharing your life story with us.
It's great to see you and Ruby bonding - dog's truly are man's best friend! Fire looks amazing too!
You should have built a wire grate wood platform in the bottom barrel took keep the wood off the bottom which should help the barrel last longer. You could've even put tubes completely through the top barrel making a heat exchanger type setup, and then put a fan on the back side to blow air through on those really cold days.
In the beginning of the video I did see some burned out grates on the floor. But you are correct. I how ever have two 55 gallon stainless steel barrels that I will be doing the same. S.S will out live me.
I KNOW this was 2 years ago !! You could have put a roll of copper pipe in that top barrel an had endless hot water too ! Provided you had a good water source ..
I was born and raised in Spokane and built a few wood stoves. When I worked for Case Tractor in Bend the shop manager gave me permission to modify the barrel stove. I added an air intake in the back of the stove using the 2" bung. It went up inside the pipe between and stopped at the edge of the 2nd barrel. There was a water culvert about 10 inches in diameter already in the 2nd barrel and a box fan mounted on the 2nd barrel to push air through and get it out. Firing up the stove after i modified it made a BIG difference. The culvert got red hot. The box fan melted because of the excess heat generated by adding air. The guys in the far end of the shop said "I can feel the heat way over here!" Approximately 100 Ft. We did not change the amount of fuel we used just added air so we could burn it all. Adding air was all I did. The biggest problem with heat engines and things that make heat is NOT ENOUGH AIR
So heartwarming Heath. You made me smile at A Boy and His Dog.....🐕🐕
Just a suggestion - line the bottom of the lower barrel with firebrick, and burn the wood on top of the firebrick. It seems to me that the burn barrel would last longer that way.
Adding sand will work too. It saved the barrel for another couple of years.
I built one of these a few decades ago, and I lined the bottom half way up the sides with firebrick. It worked great. Never cherried the outside of the bottom barrel
That ending got me feeling emotional!
Those are nice. Use one in a 40' x 64' shop. Used barrels with removable lids and built taller stand to set barrels on. Also put firebrick in bottom barrel. I've had it for 15 years now.
You can extend the life of the barrel by putting a little sand in the bottom to make a flat spot, then a layer of fire brick on top of that. You can even lay up some bricks on the sides.
100% agree, when you star to see pin holes forming.
Heath & Ruger awesome. I heard a line the other day. "The more time I spend with people, the more I realize I love my dog".... People are okay, but a pup gives 100% unconditional love !
I can’t believe it’s been four years I watched that then and here we are again amazing content. Keep inspiring and thank you
Awesome heartwarming video. Ruby was definitely born to fill in for Ruger. RIP Ruger
My buddy from Houston made my father one similar to this, but it's out of steel, 25 years ago, dad's been gone for quite awhile now, but I got that heater still in the shop it's still workn fine, I like seeing glow cherry red (sometimes) not always, it's very heavy but I can always move it if I have to with our hoist on wheels. The legs on ours are 3' high and were easily able to remove the ashes, with a wheel borrow, he even made a grote that can be removed for cleaning and can be reinstalled. Excellent project partner, always helps beat the coldness, Thanks for sharing this with me. 😊🤠✌️👍.
I also built a double barrel heater almost the same as your heater. Only differences are that I notched a rectangular opening into the back of the top drum. Size of opening 3/8" x inside diameter of the drum at the center. I inserted a steel plate as wide as notch in the back of drum x 6" short of the drum height an welded it to the back entry notch, and along both sides to create a heat directional barrier plate. My connection from bottom to top was located on back of drum. I also lined the inside bottom of the bottom barrel with brick covering 1/2 of the bottom radius. This heater lasted me for just short of 15 years. Also did not have access to kit so I fabricated all that was required. It was built in summer of 1977. Your heater is well built unit.
James karwacki
Highly inspiring! Warms up the soul to see your inner strength together with your wife. You are building not only material things although beautiful your main action is raising real human beings for a better world. Blessings 🙏
As a "city-boy" your way of life wouldn't be for me BUT the life you have built for your family off grid is inspiring! You are easily one of my favorite channels on TH-cam and I look forward to your videos every week
You better be getting out of the city if you know what's good for you, but it sounds like you don't. Just give it another several months. By this time next year you will wish you were not in the city.
16:10 Ruger, i miss that lad so much, i really do, what a great dog and companion he was.
We had a similar double barrel wood stove in our shop at work. Worked great. We lined the bottom barrel with fire brick. Stood an electric fan on the side of it to force the heat further from it and used it for many years. Cost all of about $20 in materials.
i can always respect a man who is a DIY'er and loves his dogs !
8:25 the lighting in there is awesome, just look how light and bright it all is. Just fitted 4 double strip lights in my shed, its so bright, its brill.
Great video, find a small fan and have it blow across the stove, it will make a tremendous difference for heat output into the shop.
- I agree! I had an old 16” mounted in corner at the ceiling blowing down right at the exchanger barrel. It made the difference between a warm concrete floor and a cold one. Also speeds up the overall feeling of warmth throughout the area.
I also did a cinder block fence filled with field stones around the stove.
Suggestion: Try putting about 2 " of sand in the bottom burn barrel, prolongs life of that barrel. All the Best
I thought they came with a grate to keep the wood off the bottom of the barrel.
Probably helps increase the thermal mass too. Good tip!
Or use that ceramic mass to cover all the walls inside?!
They have ceramic bricks for the bottom as well.
My husband tried the double barrel some years ago. He couldn't get it to draw correctly. Hope you have better luck.
Sand is a good idea, or a layer of fire brick?
Great build! Consider safety glasses, especially when using a cut off wheel. You have a family to take care of, God forbid you lose your sight.
Built one 3 years ago add sand to cover the bottom and it'll last awhile, mine is still working great. Recently bought a house with a double barrel stove already in the garage.
There is something about smoke rolling out of a chimney that just warms the heart. Great video as always.
Great stove for the shop. Can’t wait for you to get the overhead door installed. Little drywall on the ceiling and some insulation blown in the attic and your set. Stay warm Heath.
Add a cat/dog door to allow safety and warmth for the cats please❤️
Ruger!!! I got teared up. A great friend he was. So sad. :(
1: Relocate that tool box and put it farther into the corner. Missing out on extra radiant heat from the concrete walls on 2 sides. Be sure you PROTECT those walls with heat reflective panels for maximum effect. 2: Routing the chimney up is good...but send it over to the wall 1/2 way down the stack. NOT right under a joist beam and through the "attic" spaces. Thats asking for a fire at some point unless its double walled and insulated to be fireproof in those spaces. Easier to mount, secure and insulate if its run up the wall. Plus any radiant heat from the stove pipe stack and reflected off the wall behind it. Dont cheap out and rely on the joints to seal themselves...get GOOD fireplace dope and seal those joints...and install a "cleanout" port above the top barrel. You NEED to sweep the chimneys to prevent fires. A cleanout port makes this trivial.
its true, i learned about all that after i burned down my shop with a barrel
N0T just a clean out port for the chimney, but baked creosote flakes will also collect inside the top drum naturally and require removing.
Use a quality chemical flue cleaner like "Saf-T-Flue"regularly.
I worked at a farm engineers yard at Faversham in Kent in 1981 and the owner had made one of these to run on old engine oil drained from farm machinery having services. There was a round metal dish in the bottom drum, near to the front opening, there was a four inch pipe joining the two barrels together at the other end and an outlet or chimney at the front end of the top barrel. no vent holes other than the front door and the chimney outlet. a copper pipe was brazed in through the side of the bottom barrel and into the metal dish. a piece of rag was put into the metal dish and soaked with engine oil and then lit. An isolating valve on the oil line feeding the dish, was used to regulate the flame. When the flame had been regulated, the barrels could be run at 'dull red', ideal for toasting bread on a toasting fork. An amazing amount of heat was produced and the flame adjusted so very little or no smoke was visible from the chimney. So heating a large workshop, cost him nothing! A brilliant idea! But not so environmentally friendly these days!
Great video! So happy to see Ruger and then Ruby on your lap enjoying the heat along with you 😊!!! Heath, do your heat source the way you want to...you know what’s best for your situation. I’m sure you will be “perfecting” it, as you always do with everything you work on. This video just gave us a glimpse of the great resource that you created! Keep up the amazing work!!! 😎😊🔥
Very nice! As a former Minnesotain, we used to do some trick welding in a center small barrel half the size in the second barrel and add a fan blowing through. Also, we used fireplace door cord everywhere to air tight it.
Good to see you found your new buddy, Ruby!
Bud the best thing to do, like I did is use refactoring mud and brick that is curved on the inside. I didn't know about this in the 1st one I built like you.......but the 2nd, I learned an incredible lesson
to use the brick and mortar. I have a dble that is now 32 yrs ole!.
We’ve used a double barrel stove in our shop for 30+ years and depending on what you burn (rail road ties, rubber, oil, burn a lot dirtier) you shouldn’t have any issues getting that stove to draft. You from time to time have to climb up on the roof and drop a length of chain down and rattle it around to clean out the stove pipe should be about it. Good luck!
If you wanted to get fancy I’ve seen guys weld some exhaust pipe horizontally through the inside of top barrel and run a fan on it to really maximize your heat output. Some other “homestead” type TH-camr did something similar.
My husband built a double barrel stove in '78 in TN. It was still going strong when we moved in '85.
My neighbor has one of these in his shop. Works great. Keep it up guys!
He's a good man--and thorough!
M. Lebowski
nice setup there.. I always close the door after starting the fire, so It will huff and puff, and pull that air in to get the wood going....keeps my tent warm while hunting in the mountains.
I didn't notice in the video whether you added sand to the bottom barrel. I've ran these in my shop for the last 25+ years. I always put the door up as high as possible on the bottom barrel and that leaves me 3"-4" of room to add sand to the bottom of the barrel. I get 10 years out of the barrels before I have to rebuild. Mine is ran daily 7 months out of the year so it gets alot of wood ran through it. I'm on my 3rd set of drums now and I'm getting new ones for it next year. These stoves really work great.
What I look forward to every Sunday and Wednesday.
Love this idea! So much cheaper and you can fix it later when they wear through.
I think you and your family are a credit to yourselves! I've been watching every episode for the last 3 years and to see the beautiful home you've made for yourself up in the snowy mountains is a tribute to the hard-work and immense effort you've all put in to making your venture a success. Happy holidays! - a loyal fan
Rarely have I heard music that is so peaceful on a video of this nature... so uplifting compared to the mindless rock that seemingly permeates everything from retail stores to sports in our culture. Thank you for a great video.
God bless,
Miles
(BTW, my family and I live in WA State just 7 miles from the ID border. Considering our politics, I've often wished I lived about 8 miles east of here.)
you got a great voice and cadence for narrating and story telling
Good to see a glimpse of Ruger...
Look like Ruger sent someone someone to watch over you, he knows you need it. Rest in Peace Good Boy!
God Bless Ruger, sweet boy.
Really surprised when you mentioned retaining more heat for the double barrel wood burner why you didn't add rocks to the second barrel. It would have been fairly easy to have a small metal grid so they don't fall down and use large rocks that would let the air flow through but still massively increase the heat retained hours after the fire has gone out. Just a thought.
Creosote build up is why that wouldn’t be a viable option.
Music selection and the old and new pup was everything to me in your video. We came here to build, thrive and live. Keep doing what your doing and hope rinse a second level in the shop some day. ✊🏼 Aaron, drum builder out of MN.
I built one of these from a kit about 40 years ago for my small body shop in KY. I lined my burn barrel bottom with sand and firebrick. I also welded in about 10 one inch tubes from end to end on the upper barrel and mounted a fan on the back to get more heat out of it. She would run you out of the building and was good in the winter when painting instead of the ceiling mounted gas forced air heater which blew dust everywhere.
holy crap...this is the first time ive ever heard someone doing the sand thing....i have the same setup in my shop including the sand and i used regular flat cinder flat blocks...in the summer i wire brush the bad spots off and spray with high heat stove paint to keep the summer rust down...no signs of rust through...and its been cranking out heat for the past 5 years...i also use a small cheap fireplace grate that i had laying around to give the wood some air underneath.... just put a window fan behind the stove elevated up about 7feet and angle it down toward the stove and let it blow...btw my shop is also in KY also.....Hillbilly ingenuity 💪
Greetings from Finland, I've enjoyed watching your journey since the beginning and am still in awe how wonderful it is...thank you for every week that I have a reason to get up and watch you and your family be so positive amongst this cluster f and hope we all can get back to normal asap, hugs to Ruby and everyone else, stay safe and healthy, may your Christmas be merry and bright!
Do this if you want to get more heat. In 1975, my friend in northern Idaho made a stove just like yours, with one big difference. The top barrel had a 16" pipe going through the middle. The exhaust pipe on the top barrel was located towards the front of the top barrel. That allowed the heat to circulate through the top barrel. He placed a 16" fan at the back of the hole in the top barrel. Heated his 40X40 shop with no problem. Even at -20 outside.
I like this idea
Others on UTube have installed horizontal pipes through the second barrel and a fan to bring more heat out
Drop the stack temperature too low and creosote will fill the pipe in a New York Minute. That technique was commercially produced by "Heat-o-lator" and the problem with them was that creosote formed on the pipes inside the stove and insulated the pipes from the heated gasses.
I have been following along since back before you poured the foundation. I dont think I have ever commented before. But just wanted to drop a note, what a story of challenge, struggle, success and adapting. And it all revolves around family. Merry Christmas y'all.
My parents had a double barrel stove as our main source of heat when growing up in Alaska. It seemed able to more effectively warm a cold winter house than any fireplace we have had since. It had 40+ feet of chimney and I don't remember it having any problems with draw, did have a couple stack fires though.
No need for the propane wand. Just do your first burn outside.
To help them last, your can mist them with vegetable oil inside and out to season them and prevent rusting.
Edit: You can make your wood last longer by drilling a hole near the top center of the bottom barrel and fitting in a double threaded 1/8 in pipe nipple, about 6" or stainless tubing then any water tight flexible tubing to an elevated 5 gallon bucket with a ball valve or spigot. You can put old motor oil or filtered cooking grease into the bucket and drip it into the stove allowing you to get the same heat with less wood.
Another mod is welding a bunch of steel pipes through the top barrel to act as a radiator like in side of a train's boiler. Blowing air through them makes them even more efficient.
My buddy burnt down his shop doing the motor oil lol best of luck to you tho lol
Always relaxes me on Sunday watching these :D
Lining the barrels with fire brick helps longevity, also putting tubes in top barrel and fan realy helps heat output.
I made one of these 40 yrs ago. I slit the upper barrel and inserted a plate to make the flue gas make a 2nd pass in the upper barrel, welded the seam to make it gas tight. Worked great.
Yes. I agree. Sitting in front of that warm fire in the shop is so comfortable. And Peacefull. No furnace motor running. Quiet.....
Another way you can heat your shop is with a compost heater using the underfloor piping you were talking about.
Look up the Jean pain compost heater. Can last 18 - 24 months before you have to re do it and you end up with great compost for your garden at the end.
I remember that first one you built many years ago, that's how long I've been watching for 😯 and I've enjoyed everyone you have uploaded ( apart from the obvious one).
I have a similar stove set up. And I’m willing to bet that toolbox gets relocated. It won’t blister the paint but it will blister you every time you need a tool. Nice work
Heath, while religiously watching your videos, it just occurred to me that one of the best aspects besides the alignment with many of my own values was that the pace of your videos is just the perfect balance between time lapse and live to keep people simultaneously informed and entertained. Great work!
I made one of these 35 years ago. I took the drums outside to burn the paint off, and there was just a slight residue inside. When I took a match to it the flame shot up and melted the skin off my fingers (so be careful). Space it away from any walls and use fire resistant panels where necessary. They give off great heat and last a long time.
I made one of those for my shop in '74 and ended up working in a T-shirt with all the windows and doors open at minus 30. All I used for fuel was leftover sawdust and wood pieces. Sweet. Very sweet.
It's just my opinion
But ceiling fans to bring the heat back down should help a lot
And sealing up drafts from the big garage door
Without ceiling fans in this building, you will save a lot of money. Like in floor heating, heat will stratify... warm at floor level and starting to cool at head level. Why heat the high area above you? Use a ceiling fan if you have a lower ceiling, say 8 to 10 ft.
@@kevindawe9910
Where you live physics must be different
Where I live heat rises..
Ceiling tempetures are higher than floor tempetures
That is why ceiling fans have a reverse on then
Blow down. Or. Suck up
I was literally just thinking of RPR, and whether there was a new video. 2 minutes later bang why yes, yes there is. 😂
Made this in the 70's also added small barrel with stand used a copper line with valve to drip used oil on wood to keep fire burning plus got rid of used oil and benifited from the extra heat, these barrel stoves really crank out the heat
My hunting gang used a drum stove for the hunting shelter. It was homemade and rough. Also we rigged a flat top and that was used to heat water. For cooking and washing. After ten years it is still in good shape. Love the barrel stoves
I'm 56 years old. In the late 70s early 80s when I was in the Boy Scouts of America. My scoutmaster Conrad Shriner built a stove identical to that and had in his shop where we had our Scout meetings. That design has been around for a long time.
WW II old fuel barrels.
While this video is two years old, I'm planning on building a shop, and I've decided to install a coil in either the walls of the stove or in the stack. So I could use the stove as the heater for heated floors. Then all I would have to run is a coolant pump for the floors. I had already planned out something similar using radiators for my camper.
To prevent the coolant from boiling over a radiator could be used at the end of the floor loop as well to dump the heat at the end into the building. (The coolant pump idea came from some skoolies and it's what I thought about it for my camper as it's going to be solar aswell.)
Put pipes through the top barrel and a fan behind it, almost like an inside out radiator ? Or use the top barrel as a heat exchanger and use it to heat water for radiators ?
Interesting idea!
I worked in a 4000 sq. Ft. Machine shop years ago and the cost to heat it was crazy. We built a double decker wood stove out of old boiler tubes 3ft x 8ft. And put the tubes in the top barrel like The Singularity recommened along with a fan. Some 20 deg. days we would have the doors open because it would get so warm in the shop. Love your videos and hope you and your family have a merry Christmas
My dad built something similar almost 50 years ago to heat our house. It was made from a half oil tank with a welded metal lid, ice cream freezer door and oven racks inside to elevate the wood.
He would later fine tune things by using an outside metal casing from a clothes washer to surround the stove and fill the space between with rocks to help retain the heat.
We took our local Boy Scout Troop on a weekend camping trip in mid January several decades ago. The trip was more of a chance to practice on some of the skills needed for the upcoming winter jamboree, plus a reward for the boys for a high number of advancements in ranks and merit badges earned at summer camp (the reward was a "pizza pig out", with 3 cases of pizza's, 25 pizza's to a case!). I remember the shelter we stayed in had a large area to put down sleeping bags and cots, and an area with a stove and kitchen, In the center of the shelter was a double-barrel stove. That thing put out so much heat you couldn't be near it, but it heated up the area very well.
I built using the same kit but used a stainless barrel. I love mine. I heard a tip that said that if you use a regular steel barrel to put sand in the bottom of it and it won’t burn out the metal as soon.
To start the fire on cold days add a small door in the vent pipe so you can add a little bit of kindling (newspaper works fine). By lighting this fires you heat the pipe, which will draw from the bottom chamber giving you the proper draft to start it. This is how it’s done in really cold environments (which Idaho is not) in older homes which were also build with heavy masonry stoves to retain the warmth. There’s a Russian guy on TH-cam showing how it’s done if you search for it.
I literally drop everything I'm doing to watch this
Me too.
I've noted that others have suggested sand to improve barrel life, and through tubes to improve heat transfer. One of the other things I've seen is a set of S curves in the chimney pipe itself. Basically anything to increase your radiate surface. And as others suggested move the fireplace more into the corner to help trap the radiate heat in the concrete so it can retain and radiate it back into the shop/room. A flat plate added to the top barrel would provide an additional heat radiator while providing a flat surface to heat water/food for work meals. If it was me I'd simply cut back a portion of the top barrel's top and fit a flat plate to provide the amount of flat space I wanted.
I have the same thing in my 1200 square foot shop, and it keeps me working in my T shirt all winter. I have an additional sheet of metal that hangs off the back about 1” of air gap between the back of the stove, hanging off bolts from the top barrel. That makes a huge difference in the amount of air circulation and the heat it puts off. Cheap and easy and makes a big difference.
I clean all the 20 chimneys on my farm each year and am always thankful for the ones that are straight. Do you need that zig zag near your roof? It’s so much easier to push a brush straight through instead of taking the pipe apart each year.
love these notifications, means it's time to get the kettle on and enjoy it. God bless you
I am a professional fireplace installer. Single wall stove pipe must fit so each next section of pipe fits inside the previous pipe section so that any creosote will run down to inside of fireplace not outside of pipe. You have it backwards. Clearance to combustibles is 18". Look at your truss. You should locate fireplace in the center of the building.
Simply awesome! Blessed are the hands that build.. and nothing brings greater reward than building your own!
Perfect, instruction, video, time lapse, narration and music, just perfect x
Nice stove! They can put out a lot of heat too! The thicker the wall on the barrels, the longer they will last without burning through . Great job and your shop is warm throughout the winter regardless of how cold it can get outside. These are Very efficient stoves! Those Idaho winters can get brutally cold too! I lived next door in Montana and it was nothing to get down below zero farenheit during some of those snow storms. Some winters would get down to 60 below zero. A stove like this one is like gold in those kind of winters.