i totally get his point. it´s more fun to hoon around in the stuff you built than to tinker around with it in the shop forever. but for us, thats the stuff we came for. it´s like when someone is totally excited to show me his vacation pics. he is excited but for me it´s more of a duty i´ve got to sit through, so that i don´t look rude.
Add a sway bar int the front also, only the back front sway bar will not save you. During cornering a lot of the load is transferred into the front, especially the outer wheel, so this will dig in and you will have a scary experience. I know most of the mass is in the back, but still the front will have a huge impact.
If he would stop making the rear independent and build it with a solid live axle it would help the rear. He over complicates his builds when he builds it the way he does
Honestly am astonished how many years I have been able to relax and feel grounded watching you configure adjust design, explaining how and why. Utube should have a special category for your masterminded creativity of metal craft CREATIONS:)
Literally. I HATE when people don’t understand shocks and get double adjustables or just regular coil overs and don’t understand that you can compress the springs with the top cups and change the valving/dampening with the adjuster
Yeah it's cool to not understand things as long as you're willing to learn. I didn't know shit about suspension tuning a couple years ago and now I have ohlins on my bicycle. It's not hard to learn. And I guarantee that thing isn't running right. The headers are still equal length it won't change it like that. All around just ignorance in this video.
Take a look at the Currie off road sway bar design and for your disconect, if needed, you make a bracket to attach the side bars up when you want them off. That way you only disconnect the bottom link on each side.
yeah i was thinking if he made a couple tabs ahead of the sway bar when not in use unhook links from the rear swing arms and swing it forward and hook the links back up to the tabs next to the seat area only would haft to pull 2 bolts that way instead of taking the bar off every time. i was thinking mounting it up at the rear of the machine behind the engine and have longer links to hook more towards the rear of the swing arms would have been more functional but not completely sure of that
watch out with the shoulder belt attachment point, my hommie.... There's a ton of Nascar and NHRA documentation that talks about people breaking their necks in relatively minor crashes because of shoulder harness attachment issues. ever heard of a guy named Dale Earnhardt?
@@ConanOmega79 It wasn’t the seatbelt that he removed, it was the neck support that he always loosened near the end if he wasn’t going at it with someone. He did loosen the shoulder straps, not remove them.
If the sway bar is actually a piece of tubing you can cut it in the middle. Weld a piece of round stock inside one half that indexes the other half to it. Weld flanges to the two halves at that now middle pivot point. Bolt the flanges together for sway bar action, unbolt to disconnect the two halves for no sway bar action.
that's overly complicated, not to mention due to anti-roll bar bushings not designed to handle that, you would also destroy them and it wouldn't work as well as you think due to the bushings being part of how an anti-roll bar works (the bushing stiffness determines dampening)
Substituting the bolt that mounts the swaybar to the suspension arm for a linchpin and R clip makes it a quick easy way of take off the sway bar. Then you can just turn the sway bar forwards and use the same linchpin and R clip against the chassis under the seat for example. I use this as swaybar disconnects on my landcruiser and it works pretty well. Good video, keep up the good work.
I have a suggestion for your rear Sway Bar, just add a tab in the front. So when you un bolt it you don't have to take it completely off you can just remove 2 bolts and swing it forward and put the bolts back in.
This is such an awesome build! 👍 Looks like the sway bar doesn't have much leverage against the suspension. If it's possible to move it back a couple inches, that should make a difference.
Win ...Lose ...Fail.... I don't care.....You Have an AWESOME channel and it has been absolutely amazing to watch . You are doing a GREAT JOB Brochacho :)
Adding them will help a little but tuning the shocks will make a night an day difference. Do se research on shocks ull learn a bunch. U need to adjust the preload an spring rate.
Having those belt straps so close to chains and sprockets gives me the heebie jeebies. Seems like that's how you turn a human into a tube of toothpaste. :X
Quick detactch would be way better. Couple pins and call it a day. Similarly to the Wrangler Rubicon. Just pull a couple pins, hold it with bungee cords and call it a day. It's not janky because it's a way a lot of off roaders do it.
With the sway bar, just do it similarly to the Wrangler Rubicon. Make it so all you do is disconnect the links from the trailing arms and hold them up. No need to remove the whole thing. Couple QD for the trailing arm side of the links, like pins or something, then just hook them up with bungee cords when you need the flexibility. Should take less than a minute.
Loving the build dude beautiful machine and great skills you have but as many people have already said, please for the sake of your safety lift the upper harness mount point to shoulder height and add a firewall dude. We all love your builds but you can't keep building if you got a broken spine and full thickness burns. When this is done and running right it will be an absolute monster it's awesome. This is not criticising you or your skills by any means you and your machines are awesome, just don't wanna see you get badly hurt dude. Keep up the great work LOVE IT 😃
Good job Chris, i can see that you are really putting a lot of effort in this project and i hope you'll be pleased by the performance (btw now that you insisted so much on jumping "this thing" you must deliver ^^ no pressure)
Yesss.. i just finished and i was like whattttt he isnt gonna tell us where the shocks came from? Then hes like by the wayyy if your wondering where..... ahhhh i feel better lmao
Turn the shocks over! It seems to me they're upside-down, meaning the valves aren't completely submerged in oil and there's no resistance (initially) which causes the "bounce" you're experiencing... unrestricted rebound during that portion and unless you put limit straps, they're flying out too fast at the end and only being stopped internally which is super bad for them and could cause them to break! No Bueno! Love the build and content as usual! Keep it up! Cheers, - Jesse
Yeah, I spotted that, too. Look at the way race car sanctioning bodies write their rules about mounting racing harnesses to get a good idea about this.
Cut the sway bar in half use a splined coupler to tie the two sides back together then use electric liner actuator to slide the coupler. And you should have put it on top and use long links to the rear axle to keep it directly over the tire.
22:12 I was going to suggest Seafoam. But at 23:36 you already knew what I was thinking. HA ha ha. Have a buddy that borrowed a Suzuki highway bike that sat for 3 years. We went on a 1000 mile trip. He added a bit of Seafoam to each tank full. The first few tanks emptied out at 50 miles each. Kind of annoying. After that, there was noticeably better mileage. Towards the end of our trip, it was making 250 miles on a tank full. I think that's a way better way of cleaning the carbs than rebuilding. No worries of getting them all sync up again.
Silver chassis with blue components would look great imo. You've already done black and green on the Grave Ninja. You might consider making the top mounting position on the rear suspension further back. That will slow it down as well. I can't wait to see this beast in action!
If you put a steel cable on every wheel to hold the wheel up and make a counter wight when you go around corners it will reduce the body roll. You could do with out the rear brakes.
If you put the swaybar around the back of the engine, and connect longer links down to the centerline of the rear wheels, it's going to have a lot more effect. Like it is now, the swingarms have a lot of mechanical advantage over the swaybar, so it doesn't do much. And if you have longer links, you can just disconnect one end of one of the links, and swing it out of the way and cabletie it to the swaybar. 10 sec. job and on with offroading 🤘
.... what you mean doing the seatbelts and stuff are not interesting? Is you crazy! We love seeing that type of stuff I think it's more of the breakdown in measuring and stuff that makes it really interesting. Like how do you go about fabricating everything. I love watching you fabricate stuff like that transmission. Even though it's a huge heavy hunk of metal. That's freaking genius!
Glad to see you this project getting along! You could just make the rear sway bar detach by removing the end links and swing it forward to a fixed mount on the chassis somewhere. Wouldn’t have to remove the entire bar that way. I’m just going to guess you might need a front sway bar as well. Cheers!
I liked your video because those eleven haters who disliked are straight up jealous, keep on going brother your skills are awesome 👌. I can't wait to see the real test drive.
As for the suspension, it seems pretty much perfect. I think it's probably the best you've ever made. If you add those shocks it's going to make the suspension feel "muddy" it's going to make the ride quality worse and it will reduce the overall handling and traction. The reason it is nose diving off of the jumps is your driving style, and not the fault of the suspension. When you approach a jump you need to have lots of power on reserve ... you don't approach a jump (shaped like the one you were jumping) at high revs. I will explain a little better. For a LONG "ski jump" or Evil Kenevil style jump... you approach with a lot of speed and you allow the shape of the long ramp guide you through the air. On a shorter jump, your front wheels will be off of the jump and starting to drop and your rear wheels will still be on the jump. You NEED to be accelerating hard until the back wheels come off of the jump so that the back wheels carry the weight of the front end of the kart. Approach at whatever speed you are comfortable, but at a steady speed... not accelerating ... do your accelerating as you are hitting the jump, and don't let off of the throttle until you touch back down. Watch a MX event where guys do tricks... if you back off of brake, the nose of the bike drops, if throttle on hard, the front comes up and if you keep an even speed it will have a tendency to stay steady. It takes practice.
Move the swaybar mount closer to the pivot point of the trailing arms with the end links further toward the rear tire to give the swaybar more of a mechanical advantage on the trailing arm.
Rebuilding dampers is super easy. I'd seriously look at getting tighter valving from King. If you measure the swing arm length, the pivot point of the damper and the corner weights they'll be able to work out the right valving. Then it's just a matter of unscrewing the cap, let out the oil, take out the piston, change the valves, reassemble.
Disconnect the sway bar at the trailing arms. Flip it under and to the front. Locate and install tabs on the frame there. Then use hitch pins to replace that set of bolts. No need to remove the sway bar, just swing it forward and install the same hitch pins. Trail friendly since it will be "no tools" switch between having sway control and not. It'll be out of the way and work. Also, add a bar across behind the seat to mount the shoulder belts.
King shocks and add stock budget shocks for damping smh. Bro, I enjoy your builds as always, just think some research would save you ⏲️ and 💰. Still getting a thumbs 👍 but revalve those kings and use them for what they are meant for.. see ya next time!
It's kinda of disappointing to see so many people saying now you can do better, and you probably appreciate the advice but on the same side of the coin, I'm sure you know what you're doing😁
For sure then, when you combine the change in exhaust to twin outlet, with it not running that well in the beginning of that last video, it makes sense. I compared it to say a small 4 stroke dirt bike or even certain Subaru engines with the UEL header. I wondered why it wasn't a clean high pitch sound even at low RPM and that explains it.
I like this build. I agree about the shoulder straps they need to be mounted higher. Can you let me know what year the f250 Is? Or at least the part number. I need a pair for my buggy.
I am writing songs my brother and I tried to do me a turkey means taking a look at you, but your example is not very professional review work I love you so precious for me to make him come easy I follow
Soften front suspension will help nose diving over jumps and such by being able to squat front as it ramps so it loads front shocks. And handle better same can be said for stiffer rear
Appears to me your rear springed setup should be return adjustable. Set it a bit slower. And for compression stiffen a little. Small adjustments and test
Yeah those coilovers are way too nice to add another shock with them. They can be dialed in and do anything you ask them to. I've heard you can hire people to tune them just like the engine on a dyno. It might seem expensive but they are at least 600$ a piece so they are worth having done right. That being said, i love this channel
You should make your steering wheel positioning adjustable. A little tilt would help some.That is some impressive articulation. Maybe a sway bar on the front. Alas, looking forward to the first rip!
You should really attach those top straps for the harness shoulder level, or else you can compress your spine in an accident.
Slightly below shoulders, but I agree.
Was about to say the same thing hopefully he changes them
They say within 6 inches..
Yes it needs to be level
Good advice 👍
The "boring stuff," is the stuff I like. I find test drive videos monotonous. I really enjoy the videos!
Agreed. I don’t come here to watch test drives.
i totally get his point. it´s more fun to hoon around in the stuff you built than to tinker around with it in the shop forever. but for us, thats the stuff we came for.
it´s like when someone is totally excited to show me his vacation pics. he is excited but for me it´s more of a duty i´ve got to sit through, so that i don´t look rude.
yes, the test drives tend to be too long. I would much rather watch the build.
Add a sway bar int the front also, only the back front sway bar will not save you. During cornering a lot of the load is transferred into the front, especially the outer wheel, so this will dig in and you will have a scary experience. I know most of the mass is in the back, but still the front will have a huge impact.
I was just going to comment a sway bar on the front would be a better option if he's only going use one.
Summersaulting down a hill, or pinning a front corner into the ground wouldn’t be much fun.
If he would stop making the rear independent and build it with a solid live axle it would help the rear. He over complicates his builds when he builds it the way he does
Those coil overs should do everything you need them to do... I would try to tune them.
Honestly am astonished how many years I have been able to relax and feel grounded watching you configure adjust design, explaining how and why. Utube should have a special category for your masterminded creativity of metal craft CREATIONS:)
You need to have at least one project with the official name of "This Thing".. LOL 😆
I counted 35 This Things.... Wish I had a packet of jelly babies so I could have one each time he said it... might need two packets.
That color combination sounds perfect! I cant wait to see it finished!
Buys the most expensive, tunable shocks in the planet.
Also ruins them by putting the shitty shocks next to them. 😍😍😍😍
Awesome.
I couldnt have said this better. Its driving me nuts!
Could have sent them back to be revalved to suit weight of vehicle
Literally. I HATE when people don’t understand shocks and get double adjustables or just regular coil overs and don’t understand that you can compress the springs with the top cups and change the valving/dampening with the adjuster
yeah this bummed me out big time. putting a gross band-aid on a nice build when a little education/research is all that's needed.
Yeah it's cool to not understand things as long as you're willing to learn. I didn't know shit about suspension tuning a couple years ago and now I have ohlins on my bicycle. It's not hard to learn.
And I guarantee that thing isn't running right. The headers are still equal length it won't change it like that.
All around just ignorance in this video.
I like that you put the sway bar on the back . Atvs and most side by sides don’t have them on the front, keep up the good work!
Take a look at the Currie off road sway bar design and for your disconect, if needed, you make a bracket to attach the side bars up when you want them off. That way you only disconnect the bottom link on each side.
yeah i was thinking if he made a couple tabs ahead of the sway bar when not in use unhook links from the rear swing arms and swing it forward and hook the links back up to the tabs next to the seat area only would haft to pull 2 bolts that way instead of taking the bar off every time. i was thinking mounting it up at the rear of the machine behind the engine and have longer links to hook more towards the rear of the swing arms would have been more functional but not completely sure of that
Top mouting point of the harnas is too low, dangerous if you crash into something
Sure is!
This is my favorite project so far, can't wait to see you test her out
Love this fab channel. Its awesome that you make all your own parts
*you should considered a "firewall" or some kind of shielding between you and that radiator in case of ever overheating. Hot coolant burns arenot fun*
Yes thats a good point.
Or breaking open in a wreck.
@@DetroitMicroSound that’s fucked up you got me laughing thinkin bout niggas getting boiled from a smooshed rad full of steamy coolant
Maybe add some limiting straps so the shocks aren't the thing that stops the travel.
Those were my exactthoughts. I was also thinking wrapping the cage in some foam tubes for safety
Limit straps are for drupe, bump stops AR for bottoming travel
watch out with the shoulder belt attachment point, my hommie.... There's a ton of Nascar and NHRA documentation that talks about people breaking their necks in relatively minor crashes because of shoulder harness attachment issues. ever heard of a guy named Dale Earnhardt?
He didnt have a seat belt on
@@ConanOmega79 are you hopped up on dope?
@@dirttdude he always took his seat belt off on last lap.
Earnhardt did not die from the shoulder harness ! It was the left side lap belt/webbing that broke /stripped
@@ConanOmega79 It wasn’t the seatbelt that he removed, it was the neck support that he always loosened near the end if he wasn’t going at it with someone. He did loosen the shoulder straps, not remove them.
If the sway bar is actually a piece of tubing you can cut it in the middle. Weld a piece of round stock inside one half that indexes the other half to it. Weld flanges to the two halves at that now middle pivot point. Bolt the flanges together for sway bar action, unbolt to disconnect the two halves for no sway bar action.
that's overly complicated, not to mention due to anti-roll bar bushings not designed to handle that, you would also destroy them and it wouldn't work as well as you think due to the bushings being part of how an anti-roll bar works (the bushing stiffness determines dampening)
17:10 I like your bottle mount. It's simple, easy, looks good, & robust.
Substituting the bolt that mounts the swaybar to the suspension arm for a linchpin and R clip makes it a quick easy way of take off the sway bar.
Then you can just turn the sway bar forwards and use the same linchpin and R clip against the chassis under the seat for example.
I use this as swaybar disconnects on my landcruiser and it works pretty well.
Good video, keep up the good work.
Hey no "boring stuff" it's all good ..
There are enough nutters on here like me who like all this stuff 😁👍
Great video
you need to turn over the king shocks they are upside down it does matter !!!!!!!! the valving inside the shock is not in the oil
Bloody hell. I've been watching the build from the start, And I didn't notice that ! :D
Wrong. he has them the right way. ive not seen a single rig with the tubes on the bottom.
I really don’t think he has them charged with nitrogen. They don’t even act as a shock In the before test lol
I have a suggestion for your rear Sway Bar, just add a tab in the front. So when you un bolt it you don't have to take it completely off you can just remove 2 bolts and swing it forward and put the bolts back in.
U definitely deserve a bunch of recognition keep up the good work
Now that the vehicle is built call king and talk with their support center and they can shoose the springs and valving that'll work properly
I'm all for the black and neon green color scheme. Been my favorite color scheme since the 80s!
This is such an awesome build! 👍
Looks like the sway bar doesn't have much leverage against the suspension. If it's possible to move it back a couple inches, that should make a difference.
You are a great fabricator and are thinking things through Rocket science like if you know what I mean Keep up the good work
I love the paint scheme that you are planning.
Win ...Lose ...Fail.... I don't care.....You Have an AWESOME channel and it has been absolutely amazing to watch . You are doing a GREAT JOB Brochacho :)
Awesome builds my man very talented fabricator and maker of things haha can’t wait to see the 3 cyl 2smoker go kart rip
Adding them will help a little but tuning the shocks will make a night an day difference. Do se research on shocks ull learn a bunch. U need to adjust the preload an spring rate.
The whole sway bar doesn’t need removed you just need to disconnect the links on the end
He could have snaked it through the frame above the suspension to keep it from being a big stump catching tumor on the bottom had he realized this...
@@bradley3549 agreed, that’s what I thought! Granted I couldn’t do half of what he has done.
@@lestrotter8557 You can't question his motivation. It's inspiring. But some of the face-palm moments... he has a lot of experience to gain :)
Swing the forward after disconnecting and bolt it to a tab. Would work great if the floor allows it.
The sway bar without the end links will just droop and hang down.
Not a great design for a disconnect sway bar. 🤷🏻♂️
Having those belt straps so close to chains and sprockets gives me the heebie jeebies. Seems like that's how you turn a human into a tube of toothpaste. :X
the best thing to do with the sway bar is use disconnects and not having to unbolt it all the time
These newer longer vidjas are the best! Keep it going brotha!
Love your videos bro ,, all the way from the uk 🇬🇧
Great work !
Keep it up 👍
Looks like to disconnect the swaybar, you would only have to remove the two lower link bolts and rotate the swaybar forward and wire tie it.
jenky as fucc
I was thinking the same, only 2 bolts and is done.
@@punkopata Myself, I would put quick pins in it and be able to pin the sway bar forward also, no tools required.
@@larrymunday7519 sound the best....
Quick detactch would be way better. Couple pins and call it a day. Similarly to the Wrangler Rubicon. Just pull a couple pins, hold it with bungee cords and call it a day. It's not janky because it's a way a lot of off roaders do it.
I can’t wait to see you test it again...
Keep us updated and ride hard!!!
Paint scheme sounds awesome
With the sway bar, just do it similarly to the Wrangler Rubicon. Make it so all you do is disconnect the links from the trailing arms and hold them up. No need to remove the whole thing. Couple QD for the trailing arm side of the links, like pins or something, then just hook them up with bungee cords when you need the flexibility. Should take less than a minute.
Front sway bar is more important for handeling in my opinion. With only the back one, it can understeer too much. Love the Vids bro!
Loving the build dude beautiful machine and great skills you have but as many people have already said, please for the sake of your safety lift the upper harness mount point to shoulder height and add a firewall dude. We all love your builds but you can't keep building if you got a broken spine and full thickness burns. When this is done and running right it will be an absolute monster it's awesome. This is not criticising you or your skills by any means you and your machines are awesome, just don't wanna see you get badly hurt dude. Keep up the great work LOVE IT 😃
Omg I love the color scheme I just built my truck motor those exact colors you'll love it I did! It grows on ya lol
Good job Chris, i can see that you are really putting a lot of effort in this project and i hope you'll be pleased by the performance (btw now that you insisted so much on jumping "this thing" you must deliver ^^ no pressure)
Yesss.. i just finished and i was like whattttt he isnt gonna tell us where the shocks came from? Then hes like by the wayyy if your wondering where..... ahhhh i feel better lmao
Ven liftingk Chris, Benz da nees! Benz da nees! German ski instructor accent added...
Turn the shocks over! It seems to me they're upside-down, meaning the valves aren't completely submerged in oil and there's no resistance (initially) which causes the "bounce" you're experiencing... unrestricted rebound during that portion and unless you put limit straps, they're flying out too fast at the end and only being stopped internally which is super bad for them and could cause them to break! No Bueno!
Love the build and content as usual!
Keep it up!
Cheers,
- Jesse
The shoulder belts should be mounted at shoulder level not down low if you where to crash the belts would pull you down and compress your spine
Yeah, I spotted that, too. Look at the way race car sanctioning bodies write their rules about mounting racing harnesses to get a good idea about this.
Cut the sway bar in half use a splined coupler to tie the two sides back together then use electric liner actuator to slide the coupler. And you should have put it on top and use long links to the rear axle to keep it directly over the tire.
Cool. It's going to look like The Grave Ninja's big brother. Which, I suppose it is.
Nice. Look forward to the off road test.
22:12 I was going to suggest Seafoam. But at 23:36 you already knew what I was thinking. HA ha ha.
Have a buddy that borrowed a Suzuki highway bike that sat for 3 years. We went on a 1000 mile trip. He added a bit of Seafoam to each tank full. The first few tanks emptied out at 50 miles each. Kind of annoying. After that, there was noticeably better mileage. Towards the end of our trip, it was making 250 miles on a tank full. I think that's a way better way of cleaning the carbs than rebuilding. No worries of getting them all sync up again.
Silver chassis with blue components would look great imo. You've already done black and green on the Grave Ninja. You might consider making the top mounting position on the rear suspension further back. That will slow it down as well. I can't wait to see this beast in action!
Can't wait to see "the thing" running or painted whatever comes first. :)
Sounds great love the dual exhaust set up you did. Like how it dont sound like stupid crotch rocket. More of a four stroke sound love it.
did you changed the spark plugs? they are expensive, but it really helped me with poor engine running
Super expensive. So much so, I’m not sure that’s realistic.
I go flat with the same color as the shocks! Neon green 🤔😒... can’t wait to see it rip!!!
Super siked to see this thing off road!! I think it'll be incredible!
If you put a steel cable on every wheel to hold the wheel up and make a counter wight when you go around corners it will reduce the body roll. You could do with out the rear brakes.
If you put the swaybar around the back of the engine, and connect longer links down to the centerline of the rear wheels, it's going to have a lot more effect. Like it is now, the swingarms have a lot of mechanical advantage over the swaybar, so it doesn't do much. And if you have longer links, you can just disconnect one end of one of the links, and swing it out of the way and cabletie it to the swaybar. 10 sec. job and on with offroading 🤘
Passion it's something that you can't turn your back on, keep doing mate
I'm gonna recommend the air powered brake bleeder from HF. I always struggled with brakes til I go that. Quality investment
Amazing job!!! 👏👏👏👏
.... what you mean doing the seatbelts and stuff are not interesting? Is you crazy! We love seeing that type of stuff I think it's more of the breakdown in measuring and stuff that makes it really interesting. Like how do you go about fabricating everything. I love watching you fabricate stuff like that transmission. Even though it's a huge heavy hunk of metal. That's freaking genius!
Glad to see you this project getting along! You could just make the rear sway bar detach by removing the end links and swing it forward to a fixed mount on the chassis somewhere. Wouldn’t have to remove the entire bar that way. I’m just going to guess you might need a front sway bar as well. Cheers!
I like the "boring stuff"
I liked your video because those eleven haters who disliked are straight up jealous, keep on going brother your skills are awesome 👌. I can't wait to see the real test drive.
black and red can look awesome 👌
5 inches less flex is actually a lot man. Its gonna drive way better
Nice colour choice. Greets from Germany
This is the birth of the Ultra Cross Kart.
I absolutely approve the color scheme, can't wait to see it!
Lool when he starts with another topic he screams “okeeeyy” always 😂
As I was reading your comment he was saying that! LOL!
White and neon yellow!
As for the suspension, it seems pretty much perfect. I think it's probably the best you've ever made. If you add those shocks it's going to make the suspension feel "muddy" it's going to make the ride quality worse and it will reduce the overall handling and traction.
The reason it is nose diving off of the jumps is your driving style, and not the fault of the suspension. When you approach a jump you need to have lots of power on reserve ... you don't approach a jump (shaped like the one you were jumping) at high revs. I will explain a little better.
For a LONG "ski jump" or Evil Kenevil style jump... you approach with a lot of speed and you allow the shape of the long ramp guide you through the air.
On a shorter jump, your front wheels will be off of the jump and starting to drop and your rear wheels will still be on the jump. You NEED to be accelerating hard until the back wheels come off of the jump so that the back wheels carry the weight of the front end of the kart. Approach at whatever speed you are comfortable, but at a steady speed... not accelerating ... do your accelerating as you are hitting the jump, and don't let off of the throttle until you touch back down.
Watch a MX event where guys do tricks... if you back off of brake, the nose of the bike drops, if throttle on hard, the front comes up and if you keep an even speed it will have a tendency to stay steady. It takes practice.
great vid! love your builds man
Move the swaybar mount closer to the pivot point of the trailing arms with the end links further toward the rear tire to give the swaybar more of a mechanical advantage on the trailing arm.
A good test would be drop it. Lift the back 2 feet drop it with and with out the shocks. Build looks amazing!
Rebuilding dampers is super easy. I'd seriously look at getting tighter valving from King.
If you measure the swing arm length, the pivot point of the damper and the corner weights they'll be able to work out the right valving. Then it's just a matter of unscrewing the cap, let out the oil, take out the piston, change the valves, reassemble.
Disconnect the sway bar at the trailing arms. Flip it under and to the front. Locate and install tabs on the frame there. Then use hitch pins to replace that set of bolts. No need to remove the sway bar, just swing it forward and install the same hitch pins. Trail friendly since it will be "no tools" switch between having sway control and not. It'll be out of the way and work. Also, add a bar across behind the seat to mount the shoulder belts.
King shocks and add stock budget shocks for damping smh. Bro, I enjoy your builds as always, just think some research would save you ⏲️ and 💰. Still getting a thumbs 👍 but revalve those kings and use them for what they are meant for.. see ya next time!
Looking forward to seeing it rip.
Does the overflow tank have a breather hole in the cap? If not, it will not work. You could also check if you have one in your parts motorcycles.
It's kinda of disappointing to see so many people saying now you can do better, and you probably appreciate the advice but on the same side of the coin, I'm sure you know what you're doing😁
I love your passion
Yeah nice colour choice
6:49 nice crack bro
For sure then, when you combine the change in exhaust to twin outlet, with it not running that well in the beginning of that last video, it makes sense. I compared it to say a small 4 stroke dirt bike or even certain Subaru engines with the UEL header. I wondered why it wasn't a clean high pitch sound even at low RPM and that explains it.
I like this build. I agree about the shoulder straps they need to be mounted higher. Can you let me know what year the f250 Is? Or at least the part number. I need a pair for my buggy.
Nice work man 👨 and always I watch with pleasure
I am writing songs my brother and I tried to do me a turkey means taking a look at you, but your example is not very professional review work I love you so precious for me to make him come easy I follow
What the actual fuck?!
Soften front suspension will help nose diving over jumps and such by being able to squat front as it ramps so it loads front shocks. And handle better same can be said for stiffer rear
Please take the time and tune the king shocks!! Call king shocks and they can help with the direction of tuning you need.
Appears to me your rear springed setup should be return adjustable. Set it a bit slower. And for compression stiffen a little. Small adjustments and test
Yeah those coilovers are way too nice to add another shock with them. They can be dialed in and do anything you ask them to. I've heard you can hire people to tune them just like the engine on a dyno. It might seem expensive but they are at least 600$ a piece so they are worth having done right. That being said, i love this channel
i find the "boring" parts more intresting then the test drives, they really matter.
I'm just curious shouldn't those shocks have high-speed and low dampening and separate rebound damping
I was going to say the same thing. I would think higher priced shocks like those should have some sort of adjustment.
The kings are adjustable!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
great progress, keep it up
You should make your steering wheel positioning adjustable. A little tilt would help some.That is some impressive articulation. Maybe a sway bar on the front. Alas, looking forward to the first rip!