Thanks also for the video, gave me confidence to diy mine. A few procedural comments after doing my 08S track only car with just over 100k miles. Tie rod separator from Advance auto worked,good price. The struggle to get the rack out led me to lower the sub-frame by about 8 or 10 bolt turns which gains you about 1/2” of space. 10 bolts. Came right out and the rebuilt TRW Maval unit went back in easy. I’ve got an electric powered hydraulic steering pump in the frunk so minimal fluid lost. My problem was decent steering turning left and very poor turning right. No leaks, hoping whatever was worn is better with this rack. Got a two year warranty. Also, no need to remove tie rods or inner rod.
Thanks for the comment and watching! Happy to hear your way worked too. Please like the video and subscribe!!!! I have outter/inner tie rod videos too. Check out the library
You’re welcome! Please like the video and consider subscribing. Costs you nothing and helps me a ton. Are you going to get new PS rack? Mine was used from a Cayman S on eBay. Saved hundreds of dollars doing it this way.
Another very clear and awesome video. Still waiting on the purge valve replacement video from you on the Cayman. Mine is broken and cant find any videos on it.
If I remember correctly, it’s under the intake plenum which is a little tough to remove. Not because it’s hard to get to but rather the hoses are very firm to release and your back starts hurting since you have to sit inside the trunk. I did my fathers Boxster years ago and haven’t needed to since. Hopefully, I don’t have to do that again anytime soon. Is your car stalling/hesitating causing CEL?
@@512TXSDIY Car starts fine when its cold but has a hard time starting when its hot which is causing a CEL (P0455 Evap Emission leak). I did perform a smoke test and there was no leaks from what i can see.
Great video! Unrelated, but: I see you have Bilsteins. What are those? How do you like them, how is ride quality? I'm deciding between B4s and B6s. Thank!
Hi Denis. The B4 (what I have here) is OEM ride quality if you’re looking for slight upgrade from stock. B6S is a sport iteration with firmer absorbers. I went with B4 because I wanted more comfort personally but I’m sure the other is awesome too. Make sure to like the video and consider subscribing.
Very cool! Thank you! I have the same spec same year Cayman. Been starting to do my own work on it. What online community do you usually follow for advice?
Congrats to you. That’s awesome. I use Planet9 which has great topic/discussions to help. What are you planning on doing next? Don’t forget to like and subscribe.
Thank you my friend! Would have been easier if i didn’t have an old man back. Haha. Pt2 follow up as in if it’s still leaking? Saw your email too and will get to it tonight ;-).
Thank you for the video. I have a 987.1S with 170K amazing miles, needless to say it needs a suspension refresh. I see that you have Kona shocks, care to share why you decided on them? I was leaning towards entry-level "coilovers" . I dont track my car, just weekend backroads etc. Appreciate your input
Thanks for watching! Make sure to like and subscribe. I have LOTS of Cayman 987.1 content in the library. I don't know what these are at this time of posting the video. What I've upgraded to are Bilsteins and LOVE THEM. Check out that video.
I need to replace my high pressure and return power steering line starting from the rack to the quick disconnect. Are they easily removable from just taking out the under tray covers?
Possibly. If you go back to 16:18 timeframe, you’ll see the front sway bar bushing. Totally forgot to replace it when I was there. Honestly, I was just trying to get this thing done so I could drive it again. Make sure to like and subscribe if you haven’t already. I’ll try to knock out the front sway bar bushing soon.
I've had some pretty bad steering wheel wheel shakes while braking. Rotors look fine and noticed when i lift my car the driver front wheel has side to side play if grip the 9 and 3 o'clock position and shake real hard. The play was definitely in the tie rod so changed out inner and outer thanks to your previous video on this. But it still has the same amount of play so this would have to be a bad rack correct? I too had a whole lot of power steering fluid in my boots when removing them for the tie rods
If you have fluid in the boots, you have a bad seal in the steering rack that needs to be replaced. I don’t think that would cause the shakes when braking though. Have you checked your front tires? 987 and 996 naturally sit lower and the chamber settings cause the tires to create under toe or cupping. Turn your wheels left, then right and check the front tires. I bet they are unevenly worn. Once that is done, it “could” be wheel bearings too if there is play.
@@512TXSDIY thank you for the response. When i move the tire back and forth at 9 and 3 o'clock though you can actually see the tie rod move in and out from the rack even after replacing both inner and outer. Either way time for a rack unfortunately which I'm not looking forward to lol
I have a leak on one of the high pressure lines on the rack itself, do you know if the rack needs to be removed to replace these or if i can access the fittings on both ends of the lines without removing the rack?
I don’t recall 100% but you will have to drop the front bottom tray for sure. Shouldn’t have to remove rack though. Front tray and the driver side rim.
@@512TXSDIY Had a look under the tray and cannot see anywhere to access the bottom nut for the pipes which is annoying so the rack will have to be removed to swap the lines. Helpful video cheers mate.
Nice! That’s a better deal than what I found. Bravo. Don’t forget to like the video and consider subscribing if you haven’t already. ** careful when removing the steering rack that you don’t bump the lower coolant elbow.
Don’t forget to like, subscribe, and leave your comments below for the group!
Excellent video, thanks for this! Diagnosing a noise on the steering mechanism so super helpful video!
You're welcome @33&Third and thank you for the comment. Please like the video and consider subscribing to the channel if you haven't already.
Thanks also for the video, gave me confidence to diy mine. A few procedural comments after doing my 08S track only car with just over 100k miles. Tie rod separator from Advance auto worked,good price. The struggle to get the rack out led me to lower the sub-frame by about 8 or 10 bolt turns which gains you about 1/2” of space. 10 bolts. Came right out and the rebuilt TRW Maval unit went back in easy. I’ve got an electric powered hydraulic steering pump in the frunk so minimal fluid lost. My problem was decent steering turning left and very poor turning right. No leaks, hoping whatever was worn is better with this rack. Got a two year warranty.
Also, no need to remove tie rods or inner rod.
Thanks for the comment and watching! Happy to hear your way worked too. Please like the video and subscribe!!!! I have outter/inner tie rod videos too. Check out the library
This saved me me and my pocketbook. Thank you 💜
You’re welcome and thank you for watching. Please like the video and subscribe.
Again, thank you for making this. I have an '07 base that's high mileage that I am building into a HPDE, AX, Track car. My PS rack is shot as well.
You’re welcome! Please like the video and consider subscribing. Costs you nothing and helps me a ton. Are you going to get new PS rack? Mine was used from a Cayman S on eBay. Saved hundreds of dollars doing it this way.
Thank you so much for tutorial 🙏, Good luck 🍀
Thank you Marek! Is yours leaking too? Please like the video and consider subscribing if you haven’t already.
Another very clear and awesome video. Still waiting on the purge valve replacement video from you on the Cayman. Mine is broken and cant find any videos on it.
Thank you. I want to say there are two purge valves but don’t recall. Is yours for EVAP or secondary air injection?
@@512TXSDIY i believe its for the EVAP and is located under one of the exhaust manifolds. Just now sure how to get to it and replace it.
If I remember correctly, it’s under the intake plenum which is a little tough to remove. Not because it’s hard to get to but rather the hoses are very firm to release and your back starts hurting since you have to sit inside the trunk. I did my fathers Boxster years ago and haven’t needed to since. Hopefully, I don’t have to do that again anytime soon. Is your car stalling/hesitating causing CEL?
@@512TXSDIY Car starts fine when its cold but has a hard time starting when its hot which is causing a CEL (P0455 Evap Emission leak). I did perform a smoke test and there was no leaks from what i can see.
Check it out: rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/1176852-porsche-boxster-fault-code-p0455-cause-and-fix.html
Really good video thank you 👍
Thank you! Please like and subscribe.
Great video! Unrelated, but: I see you have Bilsteins. What are those? How do you like them, how is ride quality? I'm deciding between B4s and B6s. Thank!
Hi Denis. The B4 (what I have here) is OEM ride quality if you’re looking for slight upgrade from stock. B6S is a sport iteration with firmer absorbers. I went with B4 because I wanted more comfort personally but I’m sure the other is awesome too. Make sure to like the video and consider subscribing.
Very cool! Thank you! I have the same spec same year Cayman. Been starting to do my own work on it. What online community do you usually follow for advice?
Congrats to you. That’s awesome. I use Planet9 which has great topic/discussions to help. What are you planning on doing next? Don’t forget to like and subscribe.
Nice work buddy! I can imagine what a ballache that must have been! All good now? Will there be a part two/follow up?
Thank you my friend! Would have been easier if i didn’t have an old man back. Haha. Pt2 follow up as in if it’s still leaking? Saw your email too and will get to it tonight ;-).
Thank you for the video. I have a 987.1S with 170K amazing miles, needless to say it needs a suspension refresh. I see that you have Kona shocks, care to share why you decided on them? I was leaning towards entry-level "coilovers" . I dont track my car, just weekend backroads etc. Appreciate your input
Thanks for watching! Make sure to like and subscribe. I have LOTS of Cayman 987.1 content in the library. I don't know what these are at this time of posting the video. What I've upgraded to are Bilsteins and LOVE THEM. Check out that video.
@@512TXSDIY I meant to write Bilstein but typed Koni which MacBook autocorrected. I will surely check out the video
All good. Yes, I have video of me installing the Bilsteins if you wanted to check it out.
I need to replace my high pressure and return power steering line starting from the rack to the quick disconnect. Are they easily removable from just taking out the under tray covers?
Not just the tray. I recall having to remove both front wheels and the tray to access the steering rack.
Any chance you will do a video on the front sway bar bushings?
Possibly. If you go back to 16:18 timeframe, you’ll see the front sway bar bushing. Totally forgot to replace it when I was there. Honestly, I was just trying to get this thing done so I could drive it again. Make sure to like and subscribe if you haven’t already. I’ll try to knock out the front sway bar bushing soon.
Il send $20 your way if the video is up in the next few weeks :)
@@hunterbiliouris1901 Front sway bar bushings video will be up in 1 hour. Enjoy.
I've had some pretty bad steering wheel wheel shakes while braking. Rotors look fine and noticed when i lift my car the driver front wheel has side to side play if grip the 9 and 3 o'clock position and shake real hard. The play was definitely in the tie rod so changed out inner and outer thanks to your previous video on this. But it still has the same amount of play so this would have to be a bad rack correct? I too had a whole lot of power steering fluid in my boots when removing them for the tie rods
If you have fluid in the boots, you have a bad seal in the steering rack that needs to be replaced. I don’t think that would cause the shakes when braking though. Have you checked your front tires? 987 and 996 naturally sit lower and the chamber settings cause the tires to create under toe or cupping. Turn your wheels left, then right and check the front tires. I bet they are unevenly worn. Once that is done, it “could” be wheel bearings too if there is play.
@@512TXSDIY thank you for the response. When i move the tire back and forth at 9 and 3 o'clock though you can actually see the tie rod move in and out from the rack even after replacing both inner and outer. Either way time for a rack unfortunately which I'm not looking forward to lol
@@joek1302It’s not too bad. Putting the rack back in is tricky without two people. Did you check your front tires too?
@@512TXSDIY i did, no uneven tire wear but they are really new tires
Did you ever figure out the torque for the 8mm allen head?
I’d have to rewatch this video from 2 years ago :-). Why? Did you? If so, can you share with group?
I have a leak on one of the high pressure lines on the rack itself, do you know if the rack needs to be removed to replace these or if i can access the fittings on both ends of the lines without removing the rack?
I don’t recall 100% but you will have to drop the front bottom tray for sure. Shouldn’t have to remove rack though. Front tray and the driver side rim.
@@512TXSDIY Had a look under the tray and cannot see anywhere to access the bottom nut for the pipes which is annoying so the rack will have to be removed to swap the lines. Helpful video cheers mate.
Thank you for watching!
located one with 15,000 miles on it for $250, way better than Porsche's 2k+ for a new one....
Nice! That’s a better deal than what I found. Bravo. Don’t forget to like the video and consider subscribing if you haven’t already. ** careful when removing the steering rack that you don’t bump the lower coolant elbow.
@@512TXSDIY lol turns out it wasn’t the rack and pineon but rather a coolant hose. All is fixed now!
@@jorgebaqs7370 Much easier to fix then!