Maybe a 6th place to check should be the rain drain holes in the battery compartment. A simple procedure with a vacuum cleaner. A must do when ever you replace the battery. Thanks for the very informative video.
@@GarageTechAutomotive As I watch your videos part of me winces about the OPC costs I’ve paid for what you’re doing. My excuse is I don’t have a garage😁
@@GarageTechAutomotive After watching your video and Max's video on coolant hose leaks and getting Max's explanation about rubber aging being the cause I found a video by Scotty Kilmer where he recomends using a product called AT-205 which is made by ATP Automotive. It is a clear fluid made of Glycol Ether. Scotty is a 51 yeat mechanic with a big following and he uses it on all rubber, hoses, bushings, driveshaft boots, external rubber that is exposed to sun and he claims after 14 years of sun exposure his headhight surround rubber is soft and not cracked. I have a 2012 987.2 with 56000 miles and have just given the first treatment to the front hoses. Hoping it extends the life.
Yeah! too bad my gearshift cable broke off last year in 3rd... I wish I knew this before...fortunately I was close to a garage... Great info for the remaining too, thank you so much!
Cheers. Brilliant info on how to put in into 2nd gear should a gearshift cable break or come off. Handy tip to be able to continue emergency drive. Thanks
For the cv joint leaks you can try to wash it, degrease it and apply windshield glue. It's tough and can withstand lots of bad conditions. Must work well.
love Porsche Caymans but I'm put off by these expensive issues especially RMS, IMS bearing faults German cars are supposed to be well-engineered my Audi TT is more reliable, very informative upload
Potential RMS and IMS issues a very over-hyped. In reality, very few have these issues. Don’t let these highly unlikely issues stop you from selling TT and buying a Cayman. You will not regret it for a second. They are superbly engineered….. and no TT drives like a Porsche. I’ve done over 150k miles in 987 variants of Cayman/Boxster and apart from 1 x clutch and a water pump, have had zero mechanical problems.
Short version: Air conditioning condensers for leakage, leaves etc. Coolant leak from front left of car behind wheel arch Air oil separator (AOS) Gear shift cables Drive shafts for leaks
I’ve seen surface corrosion on this car, I’m wondering what can be done to clean that and protect the surface afterwards. I’m thinking of the pristine cars on American Porsche Club sometimes, I’ll also ask them.
I just bought 987 Boxster S and already worried about potential problems as it is a fairly old car. Hopefully, it won't cost me an arm and leg when it gets checked for MOT in 6 months time.
Very helpful video. Is there a rust preventitive that can be applied to the metal parts of the driveshaft in periodic preventative maintenance to prevent the rust from forming in the first place. For example motorcycle S100 Corrosion Protectant made in Germany, which seems like a wax. To protect my condensors and radiators I bought Zun Sport front grills from the UK and over the top of these installed common plastic bug screens used for home windows to keep small rocks and bugs from going into and filling between the fins. My idea is that it is easy to clean bugs off the front screens with a brush often rather than get damage and clogging of debris in the condensors.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment, as I have some rust already forming I’ll be using some hammerite rust paint, then over the top of that I’ll use some waxoyl. The Zun sport grills are very popular 👍🏽
Hi Sir, thanks a lot for your videos helps us a lot. I was going to buy porshce boxster 987.2 today. One car was already started when I went there and I couldn't hear cold start voice. I thought he was trying to trick me to hide a problem. Is there any problem that I need to know if owner already keep car warm? Thanks a lot again helping us a lot =)
Any advice on the water pump and thermostat? Also have you identified coolant/air hose sizes so that aftermarket silicone hoses (Mishima to, HKS, G-power, other) can be installed? Any opinion on Norma hose clamps?
Great choice, love the R. Mine’s a gen 2 S 2009 model year. I’ve done a video comparing the difference between the S and the R which you might find interesting 👍🏼
Hey, depends on where you’re located and what you want. Some items the dealer is actually the cheapest option. Service parts like oil filter and spark plugs can be found online. I’ve got another video on the cost of service parts with part number, so you can check online.
@@GarageTechAutomotive I've had it 3 weeks and it's been great so far. It's off to a specialist next week for a check over and service. Your videos are great though and will help me get stuck into some of the DIY'able jobs, so thanks!!
Annoyingly it’s quite hard to assess the ims bearing if you’re looking at buying a 987.1 . The 987.2 doesn’t have ims. First check would be to check for any metal particles in the oil and oil filter.
1 hard to check because the seller will just have re-gassed it for 75 bucks, prior to selling it So checking will tell you nothing in the long run 2 Don't look for drips, the rusted brackets are a dead give away. 3 I don't see how anybody non mechanical can do much checking on those. No seller will let some random amateur yank loose oil lines on his engine because a youtube told him too either the car blows smoke or it doesnt and a lil puff on cold start really is no drama.. 4 Another hard check for the non mechanic If the car has good shifts, I would not bother looking here. Most non mechanic folks will just get confused and disoriented looking down there at the tranny. Anybody who can do this, will not be worried bout replacing it himself. 5 The corosion on that thing is horrible.. That entire car actually looks horrible underneight probably never seen a garage in its life. I would look elsewhere Why don't you check the coil packs?? very important and quite expensive if they need replacing. easy to see when they are swollen and about to burst out of the pack
Any video talking about a pre purchase inspection that doesn’t mention bore score, is a useless video in my book. Both 987.1 and .2 are at high risk of developing bore score, people think that 987.2 is immune to bore score, but they are delusional, it’s just taking .2 cars longer to reach their failure point because they are newer. The only cars which are relatively immune to bore score are the base models because they have forged pistons, and produce less heat in general. The rest of the items are pretty easy cheap to fix, there are after market cable ends, to replace the worn ones, I’ve done them and I have 400,000km on my car’s original cables. They will NOT easily break if you’re not brutal with them. The half shafts have an issue with rust for sure, I’ve replaced inner and outer x4 boots twice. One half shaft wore on the inside and replaced it with a used one. They last a very long time there’s no point of spending $1500 on a new one. The AOS is a DYI that cost under $100. I would do it preemptively every 100,000 km. My advice NEVER buy these cars without scoping all 6 cylinders for scoring.
Maybe a 6th place to check should be the rain drain holes in the battery compartment. A simple procedure with a vacuum cleaner. A must do when ever you replace the battery. Thanks for the very informative video.
Best Video on the Cayman I have seen here on youtube ... well done M8
Nice videos you're knocking out about the Porsche Cayman. Keep it up... Max (Porsche Cayman fanboy)
Cheers Max, watched many of yours too 👍🏼 looking forward to getting it out on the road now, just finishing those dam coolant pipes 🤪
@@GarageTechAutomotive As I watch your videos part of me winces about the OPC costs I’ve paid for what you’re doing. My excuse is I don’t have a garage😁
@@MAXREVS that would be a good enough excuse for me 😆, especially over the winter. some of these jobs are not five minutes
@@GarageTechAutomotive After watching your video and Max's video on coolant hose leaks and getting Max's explanation about rubber aging being the cause I found a video by Scotty Kilmer where he recomends using a product called AT-205 which is made by ATP Automotive. It is a clear fluid made of Glycol Ether. Scotty is a 51 yeat mechanic with a big following and he uses it on all rubber, hoses, bushings, driveshaft boots, external rubber that is exposed to sun and he claims after 14 years of sun exposure his headhight surround rubber is soft and not cracked. I have a 2012 987.2 with 56000 miles and have just given the first treatment to the front hoses. Hoping it extends the life.
Yeah! too bad my gearshift cable broke off last year in 3rd... I wish I knew this before...fortunately I was close to a garage... Great info for the remaining too, thank you so much!
Excellent informative video! great job.
Cheers. Brilliant info on how to put in into 2nd gear should a gearshift cable break or come off. Handy tip to be able to continue emergency drive. Thanks
For the cv joint leaks you can try to wash it, degrease it and apply windshield glue. It's tough and can withstand lots of bad conditions. Must work well.
Hi you give us beautiful idea thanks a lot
Cracking little vid!
Great information. Thank you. !
love Porsche Caymans but I'm put off by these expensive issues especially RMS, IMS bearing faults German cars are supposed to be well-engineered my Audi TT is more reliable, very informative upload
2006 onwards Caymans don't have IMS issues.
Potential RMS and IMS issues a very over-hyped. In reality, very few have these issues. Don’t let these highly unlikely issues stop you from selling TT and buying a Cayman. You will not regret it for a second. They are superbly engineered….. and no TT drives like a Porsche.
I’ve done over 150k miles in 987 variants of Cayman/Boxster and apart from 1 x clutch and a water pump, have had zero mechanical problems.
Short version:
Air conditioning condensers for leakage, leaves etc.
Coolant leak from front left of car behind wheel arch
Air oil separator (AOS)
Gear shift cables
Drive shafts for leaks
I’ve seen surface corrosion on this car, I’m wondering what can be done to clean that and protect the surface afterwards. I’m thinking of the pristine cars on American Porsche Club sometimes, I’ll also ask them.
Thanks for the insightful video!:)
I just bought 987 Boxster S and already worried about potential problems as it is a fairly old car. Hopefully, it won't cost me an arm and leg when it gets checked for MOT in 6 months time.
did it cost you an arm and a leg?
Very helpful video. Is there a rust preventitive that can be applied to the metal parts of the driveshaft in periodic preventative maintenance to prevent the rust from forming in the first place. For example motorcycle S100 Corrosion Protectant made in Germany, which seems like a wax.
To protect my condensors and radiators I bought Zun Sport front grills from the UK and over the top of these installed common plastic bug screens used for home windows to keep small rocks and bugs from going into and filling between the fins. My idea is that it is easy to clean bugs off the front screens with a brush often rather than get damage and clogging of debris in the condensors.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment, as I have some rust already forming I’ll be using some hammerite rust paint, then over the top of that I’ll use some waxoyl. The Zun sport grills are very popular 👍🏽
Hi Sir, thanks a lot for your videos helps us a lot. I was going to buy porshce boxster 987.2 today. One car was already started when I went there and I couldn't hear cold start voice. I thought he was trying to trick me to hide a problem. Is there any problem that I need to know if owner already keep car warm? Thanks a lot again helping us a lot =)
You should have added the poor coolant pump factory fitted to the PC 987, Good video though, thanks.
Any advice on the water pump and thermostat? Also have you identified coolant/air hose sizes so that aftermarket silicone hoses (Mishima to, HKS, G-power, other) can be installed? Any opinion on Norma hose clamps?
POR-15 would work perfect for the axles rust, just remove the loose rust then apply the por-15. POR-15 needs surface rust to work.
Good shout 👍🏼
Nice Vid!
How much would a mechanic charge to change the drive shafts?
Do you know how to the cayman fast mine very slow
Thanks for the information! Just purchased Cayman R (987.2) so this may prove useful. what year and model is your Cayman?
Great choice, love the R. Mine’s a gen 2 S 2009 model year. I’ve done a video comparing the difference between the S and the R which you might find interesting 👍🏼
It will be very nice if anyone could help me from where to buy Porsche spare parts new beside the dealer
Hey, depends on where you’re located and what you want. Some items the dealer is actually the cheapest option. Service parts like oil filter and spark plugs can be found online. I’ve got another video on the cost of service parts with part number, so you can check online.
I replaced everything when I start white smoke
Great, 5 more things to worry about! (joke: i was already worrying about 3 of them)
Don’t worry, they’re great cars, all cars have their common problems, some just more expensive than others 🤣
@@GarageTechAutomotive I've had it 3 weeks and it's been great so far. It's off to a specialist next week for a check over and service. Your videos are great though and will help me get stuck into some of the DIY'able jobs, so thanks!!
@@WeirdNeville hey, no worries, hope it goes well, enjoy 😊
What about the ims?
Annoyingly it’s quite hard to assess the ims bearing if you’re looking at buying a 987.1 . The 987.2 doesn’t have ims. First check would be to check for any metal particles in the oil and oil filter.
@GarageTechAutomotive thank you for your answer!
You should show better, where exactly things are located instead of a direct close-up.
Top
1 hard to check because the seller will just have re-gassed it for 75 bucks, prior to selling it
So checking will tell you nothing in the long run
2
Don't look for drips, the rusted brackets are a dead give away.
3
I don't see how anybody non mechanical can do much checking on those.
No seller will let some random amateur yank loose oil lines on his engine because a youtube told him too
either the car blows smoke or it doesnt
and a lil puff on cold start really is no drama..
4
Another hard check for the non mechanic
If the car has good shifts, I would not bother looking here.
Most non mechanic folks will just get confused and disoriented looking down there at the tranny.
Anybody who can do this, will not be worried bout replacing it himself.
5
The corosion on that thing is horrible..
That entire car actually looks horrible underneight probably never seen a garage in its life.
I would look elsewhere
Why don't you check the coil packs?? very important and quite expensive if they need replacing.
easy to see when they are swollen and about to burst out of the pack
Over my head , I’d just get a PPI .
Any video talking about a pre purchase inspection that doesn’t mention bore score, is a useless video in my book.
Both 987.1 and .2 are at high risk of developing bore score, people think that 987.2 is immune to bore score, but they are delusional, it’s just taking .2 cars longer to reach their failure point because they are newer. The only cars which are relatively immune to bore score are the base models because they have forged pistons, and produce less heat in general.
The rest of the items are pretty easy cheap to fix, there are after market cable ends, to replace the worn ones, I’ve done them and I have 400,000km on my car’s original cables. They will NOT easily break if you’re not brutal with them. The half shafts have an issue with rust for sure, I’ve replaced inner and outer x4 boots twice. One half shaft wore on the inside and replaced it with a used one. They last a very long time there’s no point of spending $1500 on a new one.
The AOS is a DYI that cost under $100. I would do it preemptively every 100,000 km.
My advice NEVER buy these cars without scoping all 6 cylinders for scoring.
Thank you. Very good information.