dont sound like exhaust to me sounds tickey like cam follower or emission valve little end as mentioned a long screwdriver against the suss part of engine handle against ear i prefer this method to a stethoscope
Can you get copper gaskets for the manifold? If you can't, make some. Use a copper sheet between 2-3mm thick and anneal the gaskets before you fit them so the metal is as soft as possible, that way they should take the form of the gap it is sealing. ✌🏻
It may be a spark plug lead tracking to earth, that will give a ticking sound just like you have. Have a look at the HT leads in the dark which should make it easier to see.
Chin up Issac. It will get sorted. Have you tried a long screwdriver. Blade on the engine and handle to your ear. Try tracking the noise? Just an idea. Cheers.
Do you have a large enough surface plate to lay the manifold upside down on? If so blue up the faces, and rub the manifold onto the plate, that will show your high spots, then take a nice new file and just go over the high spots until you get a level surface or level enough to give you a chance of getting a good seal on to those two outside flanges. For the vertical faces, just clean up as you did the others and I would use two gaskets with paste between them and you should be good to go. But with that big mill in the shop I'd do my damnedest to get it set up, and give the two outside faces a skim with a smaller face mill.
Lee, as an ex engineer in the Coal Mining industry, I was sent away to learn how to scrape and file a surface to 98% clear blue finish. It took me 8 months of learning. I have never forgotten that skill. It works. Where you find top quality files/ rasps today is a mystery. Some of the Chinese rubbish couldn't flat surface a slab of soap. Good luck.
Do it old skool,use a file ( b'stard) file it by hand,also straight edge the heads,so you know what your dealing with,use a listening device to trace the noise,hope you solve the knocking🙏🏾💯👍🏾
You definitely need to fix your exhaust. The recording did not really give me a good idea of what the problem is. To me, it sounded more like a big spark jumping or even a heat shield.
My Merkur XR4Ti has that very tick and also lost power over 60-70 mph. I found out one, or more spark plug leads were arcing to the cam cover, intermittently, but got worse with rpm. New set of leads and the problem went away. Hope this helps. Warm regards from California.
I might be wrong but it doesn't sound like exhaust manifold to me either, it should be a uniform tick if it was, don't think you would notice any power loss through a slight manifold leak. If I'm wrong I do have a belt sander that would do the job of flattening the flanges, I'm only up the road. cheers
I've been in your shoes - first passion project. You want it fixed and you want to fix it yourself. You'll never learn more about cars than you will right now! I'd wait to fire it up until you get the composite gaskets on there as I don't think exhaust paste is a good idea pre turbo.
The noise seems too erratic to be an exhaust blow that is normally a uniform noise, it almost sounds like a rotational rattle like a loose bracket/ exhaust heat shield even a cam follower. But a screwdriver test would maybe at least give you an idea where the noise is from.
Snap on make a stethoscope with a long prod, I had a customer with a personal import Nissan, he had an annoying ticking , the Nissan main dealer had the car for a couple of days and could not locate it, he was friend of my boss and asked if I would look at it.i used my stethoscope and tracked it down to the distributor, I removed the cap and there was no grease whatsoever on the lobes of the distributor, a very easy fix and it was all down to the fact I had that stethoscope, great for tracking down annoying ticks and rattles.
I believe it’s a broken ringland. Do a compression test. 5 days of actual boost I’m assuming. And it’s hot being summer easy combo for broken ringland… misfires… do a comp test and figure out what ringland is broke..
Don't think that noise is gas escaping at flange, I would characterize that noise as a vibration of a loose item shifting around... Others have already suggested what I would do, using a single cut or mill file in the draw file technique. Cover surface of flange with Dykem or blacken with a sharpie marker so you can see cut pattern as metal is shaved off highest surfaces like this : th-cam.com/video/FaJZ2Zc2wx0/w-d-xo.html Go perpendicular at first across shortest side to even it out from arched shape it's now showing. This will cut from highest parts of ends where bolt attachments are situated. Check with straight edge and mark up with ink to avoid cutting unevenly. Finish with drawfile across long axis of now flattened flange.
That sound is too random for an exhaust leak. Exhaust leaks are typically regular in sound. That sounds more like something in the driven accessories or perhaps a relay that's really going bonkers.
Hi Isaac, thanks for all your video inputs ! had a similar problem on my 2.5 Suburu, eventually tracked it to the power steering oil pump 'O' rink which is between the pump and the suction casting,it flattens and ages allowing air into the pump causing cavitation which is like a loud metallic ticking, used an equivalent ring from an air conditioning set and had no problems since !
There's a possibility that the noise is coming from one of the many solenoid air valves under the bonnet. My Mercedes does it occasionally. Try finding all the solenoid valves and checking each one for the ticking. It might just be a trivial fix.
I find it strange that an engineering works is reluctant to machine the flanges. Set up on the collector flange might be tricky but it ought to be doable and if the root cause is excess heat warping the flange, which I suspect, then fit new thicker flanges. It seems stupid to throw a perfectly good manifold away with a simple fixable problem when a new(?) manifold will still have the same intrinsic issue. The labour costs to engineer a solution ought not to be counted as its not a commercial project and a bit of plate or machining is therefore cheap. Besides, this TH-cam channel is about fixing engineering things not a parts bin exercise. What does it say about Barum Engines if a simple engineering project can't be tackled especially, as there are many shed based engineers who do this all the time?
Because of the shape of these headers, it will be very very difficult to hold on the mill safely. That’s the main reason we can’t really machine the headers. As you say, it would be stupid to throw away, but it can be very difficult to get a manifold like this set up. Even if I got new flanges and got them welded on, the heat from the welding would warp them straight away! It’s a conundrum for sure
@@BarumBTS I can't believe that its not possible to fabricate a fixture to hold the manifold for machining and maybe grinding would be less aggressive? Every tubular manifold has flange(s) that are welded on and then refinished if necessary so its all doable. If you aren't confident about it take the manifold to a competition exhaust specialist, it'll still be cheaper and you are guaranteed a best mating surface.
If you take the heat shields off then you'll find the manifold is 3 pieces so could leak at other joints. Ditch the shields and wrap the pipes. can't beleive it is £800 for a new set - surely Impreza ones can fit or just go with tubular ones? If there is an exhaust leak then look at the uppipe where it joins the turbo. I reused plenty of the std multi layer gaskets on Impreza manifold without issue and never needed to machine flat the flanges.
Issaac, A late comment that I hope you will tke on board, Old school exhaust shop owner from last century. Exhaust/manifold leak diagnosis. get about one metre of clear plastic hose, one end must fit in the easr go around all flanges joins and suspicious areas, the sound is unmistakeable, as the end of the hose gets burnt trim it off, for joins where I esed sealant paste once secured i heated the joins flanges with oxy/acet, try and remove the covers of the manifold, you never know whats hiding in there, Good luck. from down under.
Hi Issac, Many years ago in the early 90's i had a metro gti which developed a similar tick after some expense including manifold all moving joints in throttle body several sets of coils the problem turned out to be a bad pulley, it had what would appear a minor crack on the flange which was causing the belt to slip and as it did so the belt became damaged as it rode the pulley yep tick tick. As for the manifold do you know anyone who could build a tubular one id offer but sadly do not have the necessary bending equipment any longer
Shouldn't really be using paste pre turbo and if you do only use it sparingly, also don't use the composite gaskets for the manifold or turbo as they'll fail in no time. get some new genuine mls ones and torque to spec.
Isaac is that the carbon canister EVAP system valve ticking, there should be a vent for the fuel tank that vents through carbon or directly into the throttle body/manifold and has an electric solenoid valve that controls it ? oh and don't use paste before CATs
Be careful that you haven't put too much sealant on the gaskets, ive had it before and the excess squeezes into the manifold and then breaks off and knackers the turbo
I would have brazed the low spots on those Flanges then draw filed them checking with a Steel rule. All basic bench fitting work for an apprentice. All the best.
Use high temperature, O2 sensor safe silicone. Will work much better that the exhaust paste. Ticking sounds more like a dicky lifter to me. Exhaust leaks sound worse under load. It doesn’t sound like it’s missing at all.
Those composite gaskets are a waste of time. The genuine mls gaskets are the best. You need to take those heat shields off the rest of the manifold and check the all the joins in there.
Great vlog Issac, just a thought, I’ve not had any experience of these, is it a solid one piece manifold? Or is there another flange inside the heat shield? Just looked like a large lump in the middle. Keep at it, you’ll find the prob. Stay well.
Not a bad shout. Im not sure! There may well be. I almost took heat shield off but didn’t like the look of the rusty 10mm nuts 😂 although didn’t notice a join when I stuck borescope inside the manifold.
Where’s your gaskets?? MLS or old pressed tin …. Block aluminium - exhaust steel difference in heat expansion - the buffer =gaskets problem solved bud 👍 problem with sanding foreign debris ie glass in exhaust cause damage to turbo
I’ve got composite gaskets now, after sanding I washed manifold in parts washer and blew out, inspected with borescope. All clean. In this video I showed how bent the manifold was, it’s about 20 thou bent, and very difficult to set up on the mill!
Please don't start the car with exhaust paste before the turbo, it can only end in expensive tears. I intend to email Barum shortly as I have a couple of engines needing their expertise, one of which is a 2.0 sti which is going for a significant power upgrade so has an exhaust manifold ready to fit making the original surplus to requirement.
It does, but, the odd part is that the engine is definitely running rough now. It is down on power and stuttering as if it’s got a slight misfire. It’s reading rich and you can hear it trying to adjust the fuelling to suit. It happened suddenly as if on a switch. Very odd.
To be honest, I’m mainly trying to seal exhaust up so I can be sure it’s not contributing to it. Having a blow in the exhaust is causing the AFR reading to be wrong, and makes it loads harder to hear where the noise is coming from!
@@BarumBTS it's a job that needs doing any way, so good on you. Hopefully it helps pin point the tick. Any small noise on a rebuilt engine can be a bastard, as you won't trust it until you find it.
@@BarumBTS i'd check all the vacuum solenoids and all the vacuum pipes if you havn't already, they all split at the ends on older cars there a nightmare, good luck hope you find the problem soon 👍👍
Big no-no? Proper big belt sander with a hard flat surface is what is used to flatten cast exhaust manifolds in every shop I know of. As long as you have a good setup, it is the advised method. Obviously, for heads and block surfaces you use the mill, but not for exhausts.
Personally I would run on all three flanges.composite then steel laminate,then another composite and use high temp,O2 sensor compatible silicon sealer , not that exhaust cement that goes hard,when hot ,that stuff is ,,,,,,,,
Don't stress too much, I will probably cop a blast for this, but ordinary old window and gutter silicone will fix just about anything in the way of exhaust leaks. I have to deal with some horrible old stuff and it is my go to for the job
The exhaust paste will work enough to see if the ticking disappears, you rebuild the engine with all OEM or better parts, so I think the engine will be perfect, just run it in real good. 🤞Issac
5 minute's with a file would square up those flanges our kid. Don't the valve guides slide out of the head on these like the ej20? Common fault i recall. Or Is there a solenoid controlled idle valve on these? Could it be inside the gearbox that clunking noise?
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dont sound like exhaust to me sounds tickey like cam follower or emission valve little end as mentioned a long screwdriver against the suss part of engine handle against ear i prefer this method to a stethoscope
Can you get copper gaskets for the manifold? If you can't, make some.
Use a copper sheet between 2-3mm thick and anneal the gaskets before you fit them so the metal is as soft as possible, that way they should take the form of the gap it is sealing. ✌🏻
It may be a spark plug lead tracking to earth, that will give a ticking sound just like you have. Have a look at the HT leads in the dark which should make it easier to see.
its would also cause his misfire
Chin up Issac. It will get sorted. Have you tried a long screwdriver. Blade on the engine and handle to your ear. Try tracking the noise? Just an idea. Cheers.
Shouldnt be too difficult to narrow it down using a screwdriver as suggested if not identify it
Do you have a large enough surface plate to lay the manifold upside down on? If so blue up the faces, and rub the manifold onto the plate, that will show your high spots, then take a nice new file and just go over the high spots until you get a level surface or level enough to give you a chance of getting a good seal on to those two outside flanges. For the vertical faces, just clean up as you did the others and I would use two gaskets with paste between them and you should be good to go. But with that big mill in the shop I'd do my damnedest to get it set up, and give the two outside faces a skim with a smaller face mill.
This why mechanical fitters were (are? - doubt it,) taught to file flat.
Draw file it.👍
Lee, as an ex engineer in the Coal Mining industry, I was sent away to learn how to scrape and file a surface to 98% clear blue finish. It took me 8 months of learning. I have never forgotten that skill. It works. Where you find top quality files/ rasps today is a mystery. Some of the Chinese rubbish couldn't flat surface a slab of soap. Good luck.
Paste will be a waste of time. New gaskets should fix it. Mine were not perfect once they were cleaned up and the MLS gaskets sealed ok.
Do it old skool,use a file ( b'stard) file it by hand,also straight edge the heads,so you know what your dealing with,use a listening device to trace the noise,hope you solve the knocking🙏🏾💯👍🏾
You definitely need to fix your exhaust. The recording did not really give me a good idea of what the problem is. To me, it sounded more like a big spark jumping or even a heat shield.
My Merkur XR4Ti has that very tick and also lost power over 60-70 mph. I found out one, or more spark plug leads were arcing to the cam cover, intermittently, but got worse with rpm. New set of leads and the problem went away. Hope this helps. Warm regards from California.
Previous comment about draw filing is spot on, use some high spot blue, clock it and take your time it will be better than a new one.
Correct, no need in my opinion to waste money on a new one, just toque those bolts probably and I would re toque after about a week.
If he’s an Engineering Apprentice he should be spending weeks if not months just doing filing and checking… that’s how it used to be !
Get a vehicular stethoscope. Dirt cheap, and a good diagnostic tool
Keep moving forward, you only loose when you stop trying
If the problem went away for a bit after the repair at least your looking at the right place.
Just be careful with the paste so it dont go in to the turbo because it will damage the blades and the turbo is gone.
Belt sander for the flange surfaces
Great to hear you getting advice Isaac, don’t be discouraged you’ll get there and learn as you try different approaches. Regards, Bob M. South Wales
I might be wrong but it doesn't sound like exhaust manifold to me either, it should be a uniform tick if it was, don't think you would notice any power loss through a slight manifold leak. If I'm wrong I do have a belt sander that would do the job of flattening the flanges, I'm only up the road. cheers
You will kick yourself when you locate the fault. Fault finding good practice. Chin up Mate😊
I've been in your shoes - first passion project. You want it fixed and you want to fix it yourself. You'll never learn more about cars than you will right now! I'd wait to fire it up until you get the composite gaskets on there as I don't think exhaust paste is a good idea pre turbo.
Sounded like HT sparking to me .. not mechanical..just a thought..
Please dont use gasket cement pre turbo, if it come lose its bye turbine wheel.
A good belt sander will make your flanges flat again
The noise seems too erratic to be an exhaust blow that is normally a uniform noise, it almost sounds like a rotational rattle like a loose bracket/ exhaust heat shield even a cam follower.
But a screwdriver test would maybe at least give you an idea where the noise is from.
Snap on make a stethoscope with a long prod, I had a customer with a personal import Nissan, he had an annoying ticking , the Nissan main dealer had the car for a couple of days and could not locate it, he was friend of my boss and asked if I would look at it.i used my stethoscope and tracked it down to the distributor, I removed the cap and there was no grease whatsoever on the lobes of the distributor, a very easy fix and it was all down to the fact I had that stethoscope, great for tracking down annoying ticks and rattles.
I believe it’s a broken ringland. Do a compression test. 5 days of actual boost I’m assuming. And it’s hot being summer easy combo for broken ringland… misfires… do a comp test and figure out what ringland is broke..
Don't think that noise is gas escaping at flange, I would characterize that noise as a vibration of a loose item shifting around... Others have already suggested what I would do, using a single cut or mill file in the draw file technique. Cover surface of flange with Dykem or blacken with a sharpie marker so you can see cut pattern as metal is shaved off highest surfaces like this : th-cam.com/video/FaJZ2Zc2wx0/w-d-xo.html Go perpendicular at first across shortest side to even it out from arched shape it's now showing. This will cut from highest parts of ends where bolt attachments are situated. Check with straight edge and mark up with ink to avoid cutting unevenly. Finish with drawfile across long axis of now flattened flange.
did they look into that throttle body? was it okay? .. Weird stuff .. good movie!
That sound is too random for an exhaust leak. Exhaust leaks are typically regular in sound. That sounds more like something in the driven accessories or perhaps a relay that's really going bonkers.
Hi Isaac, thanks for all your video inputs ! had a similar problem on my 2.5 Suburu, eventually tracked it to the power steering oil pump 'O' rink which is between the pump and the suction casting,it flattens and ages allowing air into the pump causing cavitation which is like a loud metallic ticking, used an equivalent ring from an air conditioning set and had no problems since !
There's a possibility that the noise is coming from one of the many solenoid air valves under the bonnet. My Mercedes does it occasionally. Try finding all the solenoid valves and checking each one for the ticking. It might just be a trivial fix.
Make a copper gasket, after you run a draw file over the exhaust flange.
I find it strange that an engineering works is reluctant to machine the flanges. Set up on the collector flange might be tricky but it ought to be doable and if the root cause is excess heat warping the flange, which I suspect, then fit new thicker flanges. It seems stupid to throw a perfectly good manifold away with a simple fixable problem when a new(?) manifold will still have the same intrinsic issue. The labour costs to engineer a solution ought not to be counted as its not a commercial project and a bit of plate or machining is therefore cheap. Besides, this TH-cam channel is about fixing engineering things not a parts bin exercise.
What does it say about Barum Engines if a simple engineering project can't be tackled especially, as there are many shed based engineers who do this all the time?
Because of the shape of these headers, it will be very very difficult to hold on the mill safely. That’s the main reason we can’t really machine the headers. As you say, it would be stupid to throw away, but it can be very difficult to get a manifold like this set up. Even if I got new flanges and got them welded on, the heat from the welding would warp them straight away!
It’s a conundrum for sure
@@BarumBTS I can't believe that its not possible to fabricate a fixture to hold the manifold for machining and maybe grinding would be less aggressive? Every tubular manifold has flange(s) that are welded on and then refinished if necessary so its all doable. If you aren't confident about it take the manifold to a competition exhaust specialist, it'll still be cheaper and you are guaranteed a best mating surface.
If you take the heat shields off then you'll find the manifold is 3 pieces so could leak at other joints. Ditch the shields and wrap the pipes. can't beleive it is £800 for a new set - surely Impreza ones can fit or just go with tubular ones? If there is an exhaust leak then look at the uppipe where it joins the turbo. I reused plenty of the std multi layer gaskets on Impreza manifold without issue and never needed to machine flat the flanges.
Issaac, A late comment that I hope you will tke on board, Old school exhaust shop owner from last century. Exhaust/manifold leak diagnosis. get about one metre of clear plastic hose, one end must fit in the easr go around all flanges joins and suspicious areas, the sound is unmistakeable, as the end of the hose gets burnt trim it off, for joins where I esed sealant paste once secured i heated the joins flanges with oxy/acet, try and remove the covers of the manifold, you never know whats hiding in there, Good luck. from down under.
All you need is new HT leads, they will sort the misfire and the ticking.
Hi Issac,
Many years ago in the early 90's i had a metro gti which developed a similar tick after some expense including manifold all moving joints in throttle body several sets of coils the problem turned out to be a bad pulley, it had what would appear a minor crack on the flange which was causing the belt to slip and as it did so the belt became damaged as it rode the pulley yep tick tick. As for the manifold do you know anyone who could build a tubular one id offer but sadly do not have the necessary bending equipment any longer
the sound seems a bit like the exhaust heat shield rattling. It's very common on the Subaru, I tend to Cut them off when they start to rattle.
Shouldn't really be using paste pre turbo and if you do only use it sparingly, also don't use the composite gaskets for the manifold or turbo as they'll fail in no time. get some new genuine mls ones and torque to spec.
Exhaust Gasket is the answer with assembly paste
Isaac is that the carbon canister EVAP system valve ticking, there should be a vent for the fuel tank that vents through carbon or directly into the throttle body/manifold and has an electric solenoid valve that controls it ? oh and don't use paste before CATs
Be careful that you haven't put too much sealant on the gaskets, ive had it before and the excess squeezes into the manifold and then breaks off and knackers the turbo
Issac that tick sounds like a belt. Check aux belt has not a nick of rubber lifted out of it
Why not face the flanges on the mill👍
Sounds like spark plug slack
Keep the Videos coming Bud 👍👍Don’t give up part of looking after a performance car👍👍
I can see a new set of headers in your future. Keep going mate.
I would have brazed the low spots on those Flanges then draw filed them checking with a Steel rule. All basic bench fitting work for an apprentice. All the best.
Use high temperature, O2 sensor safe silicone. Will work much better that the exhaust paste. Ticking sounds more like a dicky lifter to me. Exhaust leaks sound worse under load. It doesn’t sound like it’s missing at all.
Could try a file and time to get a good surface.
Those composite gaskets are a waste of time. The genuine mls gaskets are the best. You need to take those heat shields off the rest of the manifold and check the all the joins in there.
Great vlog Issac, just a thought, I’ve not had any experience of these, is it a solid one piece manifold? Or is there another flange inside the heat shield? Just looked like a large lump in the middle. Keep at it, you’ll find the prob. Stay well.
Not a bad shout. Im not sure! There may well be.
I almost took heat shield off but didn’t like the look of the rusty 10mm nuts 😂
although didn’t notice a join when I stuck borescope inside the manifold.
Where’s your gaskets?? MLS or old pressed tin …. Block aluminium - exhaust steel difference in heat expansion - the buffer =gaskets problem solved bud 👍 problem with sanding foreign debris ie glass in exhaust cause damage to turbo
I’ve got composite gaskets now, after sanding I washed manifold in parts washer and blew out, inspected with borescope. All clean. In this video I showed how bent the manifold was, it’s about 20 thou bent, and very difficult to set up on the mill!
Engineers blue and file
Please don't start the car with exhaust paste before the turbo, it can only end in expensive tears. I intend to email Barum shortly as I have a couple of engines needing their expertise, one of which is a 2.0 sti which is going for a significant power upgrade so has an exhaust manifold ready to fit making the original surplus to requirement.
Pop us an email! I’m sure you’ve got it but email is: barumenginesltd@gmail.com
The rattle sounds sort of like something loose like a bolt with a nyloc nut on it being shaken in sync with the idling of the engine.
It does, but, the odd part is that the engine is definitely running rough now. It is down on power and stuttering as if it’s got a slight misfire. It’s reading rich and you can hear it trying to adjust the fuelling to suit. It happened suddenly as if on a switch. Very odd.
sounds a bit more of a rattle than a tick
You’re not wrong! It is a rattle sound really
If it was the exhaust, it would be uniform! Sounds like a bearing breaking down.. check tensioner pulley, alternator pulley etc. and good luck.
To be honest, I’m mainly trying to seal exhaust up so I can be sure it’s not contributing to it. Having a blow in the exhaust is causing the AFR reading to be wrong, and makes it loads harder to hear where the noise is coming from!
@@BarumBTS it's a job that needs doing any way, so good on you. Hopefully it helps pin point the tick. Any small noise on a rebuilt engine can be a bastard, as you won't trust it until you find it.
Couldn't you file them flat?
I could (and probably will) but at the moment, just trying to diagnose. If this seals up ok and makes no difference, then I know to look elsewhere!
Its a subaru just turn up the radio, seams too work for the ones that go by my house.
I wish, radio don’t work 😂😂
Also not really an issue I can ignore, it’s a little bit down on power too :(
@@BarumBTS i'd check all the vacuum solenoids and all the vacuum pipes if you havn't already, they all split at the ends on older cars there a nightmare, good luck hope you find the problem soon 👍👍
Big no-no? Proper big belt sander with a hard flat surface is what is used to flatten cast exhaust manifolds in every shop I know of. As long as you have a good setup, it is the advised method. Obviously, for heads and block surfaces you use the mill, but not for exhausts.
Personally I would run on all three flanges.composite then steel laminate,then another composite and use high temp,O2 sensor compatible silicon sealer , not that exhaust cement that goes hard,when hot ,that stuff is ,,,,,,,,
Good jawb. Dont quit. Keep going .. had same issue with Golf and Polo from Das Reich
Composite gaskets are way more forgiving. I'd still use a slight smear of high-temp silicone sealant.
Don't stress too much, I will probably cop a blast for this, but ordinary old window and gutter silicone will fix just about anything in the way of exhaust leaks. I have to deal with some horrible old stuff and it is my go to for the job
They are a dime a dozen in the United States. Look over here first because you can get get one shipped for less than 200 pounds
The exhaust paste will work enough to see if the ticking disappears, you rebuild the engine with all OEM or better parts, so I think the engine will be perfect, just run it in real good. 🤞Issac
Try to grind it with grinding paste and a piece of glass. Old school but I have had some success with it
Definitely not engine
I agree. Way too irregular!
In a way, would be easier if it was an engine noise…. Would be easier to diagnose!
If it works it works
those flanges should have gaskets im my experience
They do, currently has MLS gaskets but will soon have Composite gaskets
What a money pit
Bin the Subaru , it's a bottomless drain of money .
Shame really as they look nice .
5 minute's with a file would square up those flanges our kid. Don't the valve guides slide out of the head on these like the ej20? Common fault i recall. Or Is there a solenoid controlled idle valve on these? Could it be inside the gearbox that clunking noise?