I've had mine for 7 months now and the only thing I have added is the bl touch. I use a glue stick and a spray bottle of water for bed adhesion and haven't had any problems
Thank you so much for making this tutorial, I was never able to find a dual Z-axis video for the Ender 3 Max as well as a new extruder upgrade. Once again, great video!
Hello! My Ender 3 MAX is on its way, i think that the dual z axis upgrade is a must with that frame size. Thank You for the information and a montage video.
Because of your vid I did a dual z on my Ender Max, and it's fantastic now! A few other upgrades now as well, I told myself, "DO NOTBECOME A MOD FREAK" and that lasted all of 4 seconds after getting this thing haha! :D
Also had the BLT issue, fixed with a cheap ferite ring, pas the BLT cable through 3 times so 3 coils through the ring, the ring is under the machine just behind the control box, fixes the interference and glitching, easier and cheaper than screening ;)
I have been struggling a lot with trying to get the bed leveled, I wanted a bl toutch but didn't want to have to go through the hassle of soldering and all that stuff but I didn't know THAT THE CONNECTIONS ARE ALREADY THERE. Just ordered it through your affiliate link, thank you so much!
I just got it today and I had huge Z issues on my 3 max out of the box. It turns 2 out of the 3 rollers on the right (outer rollers) don't really make contact with the rail. Unscrewing and jiggling things slightly made 2 out of 3 rollers make contact and it works great.
Weird when you see one group of people have issues with something that another group doesn't....and then go on to spend X $$$'s to fix issues others don't have at all. But some of these were gold.
I happy to see someone do this! I have a max and had some of the same issues.Only Difference with mine was I used a dual z kit for a V2 because I found one for $23 and I found the lead screw on Amazon too but I used a 480mm one which is the same size as the one it came with. I had the heat creep problem too but what helped me was I changed the feed tube.With the BL touch what I did with the bed was go to Home Depot and found 1in tube spacers and got rid of the springs!! Any adjustment on first layer I use Z offset under the tune when running.I also found string happening and after hours of study I found the nozzle wasnt out the sock enough so I trimmed it back and now ZERO issues. The direct drive Im thinking about but I dont do enough flexable to justify one....YET! LOL! Sorry to be long winded about this but no one is doing what we are doing with these and I have NO CLUE how to make a video! LOL! Keep it up
Thanks for sharing. Yes my 500mm stick above the frame a bit, 480 is the size I should have done to match exactly. I will look into those tube spacers, sounds interesting. The direct drive extruder isn't necessary, it made it slightly easier for me to dial in retraction, but I think that is because my other printers are direct drive so I had some experience with relative numbers to work with.
Well I played with z offset in tune till I figured out what works for me. The biggest thing I found was being to close to the bed with the nozzle. But adding the dual Z made prints so much more stable. The solid mounts for the bed and use of a CR touch make things soo much easier on your mind. I've gone 2+ months without a fail and no adjustments. It took a lot of watching and thinking about why it was being a pain! You don't have to spend a lot of money to get it good. Like the solid mounts cost me $4, the dual z was $26& the cr touch was $36. Hope this helps
I really like your videos man! I was back and forth about a bl touch but I think I might get them for all 3 of my machines. I just recently added the ender 3 max to my collection and am now running my first big print on it…over 6 days long. You really got me thinking about these upgrades now. I also have a CR10v2 and it has the dual z rods and I love that thing! Keep up the good work 👍🏻
With the dual z kit you've used, the location of the brass nut isn't quite aligned with the position of the stepper motor. You can see this at 3:45 when you move the x-gantry down. The left lead screw leans over to the right as it is forced into place by the misaligned brass nut. I had the same thing happen to my Ender 3 V2. The fix for me was to use a 3D printed bracket instead of the metal one.
Walt, thank a bunch!!! I will going with the dual z-axis, bl-touch, and Biqu H2 DD. The fans I will pass, for now. The montage was very good! But, it does require music! A montage MUST have music! Cheers...
I would suggest an installation video about the components in detail, even though the content is great but I'm still afraid to touch those electrical stuff.
especially with replacing the power supply fan, it can be very dangerous if your bridge a connection with either your finger or something your holding (even if the psu is not plugged in), if the wattage is high enough you could die. Id recommend at least having a disclaimer that people should be very careful with opening a psu and to not attempt at all if not experienced.
Ok, without wanting to be an ass towards Walt's.... DO NOT USE A 40X10 NOCTUA 12V FAN FOR YOUR HOTEND COOLING. When I got my ender max, the first thing I changed was the Bowden tube to the blue capricorn one. Made 6 prints averaging at 2h each, NEVER had any issues. I then received my 3 fans, the exact same as in the video. I changed the hot end fan first. I instantly started having heat creeps and that, even by lowering the nozzle temp by 10C and by raising up the printer speed by 10mm/s as well as the flow by 10% to try to prevent it. Heat creeps has now been happening within 25 mins and they were non existant before. The CFM is more or less half the one of the stock fan. So now I have to purchase another brand to make it right again. I think that the capricorn tubing being narrower might help in the heat creep process at some point. But clearly this is because of the fan. Get another brand or install a bigger Noctua fan with a new hotend shroud instead of using the A4x10 FLX model shown in this vid. I wouldn't be surprised that he ended up having heat creeps also after this installation, perhaps it was just slightly better because of the stock Bowden tube with bigger diameter. Anyhow, hopefully this message can help people not waste money on that model. The 120mm Noctua for the PSU is amazing and I love it. I have yet to install the 60mm for the Motherboard but I'm sure for that purpose it's going to be perfect.
No offense taken! Appreciate your input, especially in a non trolling way. Always happy to hear other people's opinions. And I actually get some really great advice from comments.
You made me buy BIQU H2 extruder and i have it for a month now. I finally got rid of heat creaps and all the issues related to it. Thank you for this video and i hope that in future you would publish new mods like linear rails for X axis or something similar. Also it would be greath if you could provide us link to the mounting bracket STL since the one i am using now is awful. :)
Good day sir, I'm in need of your assistance. I just finished installing a dual z axis control, direct drive extruder and also replaced the original hot end with a direct replacement onto my Ender 3 Max. I already had a BL touch installed but now for some odd reason, when I try to auto home, the z bar is about 140mm off the bed and refuses to go any lower. I'm at my wits end with this and would greatly appreciate any help trouble shooting please, thank you.
Sorry I didn't, but the ender 3 pro is the same process, I watched a video of someone doing it to an ender 3 pro and just followed that, there a few out there.
Good morning friend, the cooler you used on the psu was connected on the same connectors of the original cooler or you connected directly on the 12 volts
@@waltsreviews90 I installed one too but the cooler keeps turning on and off all the time, the source pins do not offer voltage (12v) all the time, do you know how to make the cooler work all the time?
Thank you so much for this video! I am trying to find instructions online on how to connect the fans, and the parts that need to be printed, If you know of a site that gives step by step instructions, that would be amazing.
Hi, i just bought a Ender 3D max printer... but i can't find anywhere how to install driver in Cura 12 and how to print from Cura 12 via USB cable connected to the computer . Can you please make a video? Thank you.
Toying with this Ender 3 Max at the moment, it's only a tiny amount more than the Ender 3 v2 (or about £60 more than the V3 Pro). Only thing currently putting me off it, is the lack of exact same support/amount of videos that the regular Ender 3's have.....sure most will work, some may need adapting, but when its trying to get around those workarounds that makes me wonder if best getting the smaller model purely for the level of support and videos
The V2 will be easier to find stuff on and take less time to modify because of that, if you want to get things done quick and not tinker go with V2, if you need the large size and willing to mess around a bit you can go with the max
Did you have to make any adjustments to the Z axis stepper motor power? When I installed the second Z axis, and plugged in the Y cable, the motors wouldn't lift the gantry anymore. They would make noise but not lift the gantry without some help. They go down OK. I disconnected the screws and moved the gantry by hand, it moves smoothly with no binding.
great and honest review, I was in a midst of choosing ender 3 max or the sidewinder x1, and correct me if I am wrong,. the sidewinder x1 gives the least problems out off the box, I am trying to decide which one should I get for my first 3d printer.
When you add a 2nd z-axis lead screw do you need an anti-backlash nut on that side as well? My ender 3 max came with one on the factory screw. Is that enough if going to dual screws?
Great video - would you happen to have the links to the part cooling and mounting plates you used? Did you have to create an additional mount for the BLtouch or were you able to use the stock? Thank you
The hot end fan interferes with printing abs. That's why I ordered the biqu h2. Only thing I need to know is are there any gotchas with the Ender 3 and does the thermistor require a firmware update.
Regarding the Dual Z upgrade, what will you do with the Meanwell power supply, have you found a way to mount it somewhere, or are you just going to leave it laying on the table?
I have seen people mount it laying down flat under the bed in the middle of the frame. I haven't done that because then the fan I used would be likely to have something fall into it. There are some other ways and if I get some time, I may mount it to the frame some day, but right now I just leave it off to the side. I don't move my printer often, so not a big deal for me, but if you do you would want to mount it.
About time some one posted a video about upgrades, especially the dual Z, I would have to say that Creality really needed to look at this and start using it on there printers. Thank you for sharing the links as well to all the parts.
Fantastic video Walt. You got me to pick one up an H2 for my Max. Quick question though How did you go about calibrating your printer to work with it? I cant find any information from the company. P.S. I also coupled it with the hermit crab change tool.
What firmware did you use for the BL Touch? Creality’s firmware version for 4.2.2 motherboard bl touch is giving me issues. I was able to calibrate the Z axis offset to -4.75, so when I autohomed it, it gave me a Z axis value of 14.75. Then when I move the Z axis down to 0.0 it has the perfect grip on a piece of printer paper so I stored settings. I then went into Cura and loaded a test stl file with a few skirts that covered the edges of the bed. Then I edited the start gcode to look like this: G28 ; home of axis G29 ; probe 9/9 spots on bed M412 S0 ; disable filament runout sensor M117 ; purge extruder G92 EQ ; reset extruder *Rest below is normal start gcode* After this when I start print, it follows all commands but when starting skirt, nozzle is either too close or too far. So I tried using Babystep Z axis to adjust nozzle height which worked but while it was circling the bed, the Z axis motor kept adjusting nozzle height causing it to go either up or down too much not giving me the perfect layer. Am I doing anything wrong and is there anything I can do to fix this? Any suggestions is appreciated thank you!
just fitted cr-10 dual z on my ender 3 max,spot on,just trimmed the lead screw down to make it neat,just wandering why the max has the backlash nut on top near the extruder instead of underneath any one know,all others have them underneath,thanks.
I would go with the artillery. It's physically bigger, so you can get a bigger build volume like you are looking for. Also, I've spend less time trying to repair it compared to my ender.
Odd, I got two of these machines and all stock running basicly non stop for a month with no printing issue no mod, and they lay the first layer like it was a sheet of paper and I've only had to level it once. So, you must just got a bad printer or being total blind like I am makes a differance :P
I bought 2 took my time setting both up and calibrating .. one i have to constantly lvl .. the one i got for my boy hardly ever mess w lvl once its set.
yo dude your videos are awesome. Just got my Ender 3 Max, replaced the stock blower fan, ugh. great job with these keep it up! Currently having an issue with the power supply fan. gonna keep looking. Maybe Marlin firmware upgrade would help?
Yes I will try to get that up soon, I just moved and won't have time to dig that up for a little. Just FYI I put a volcano hot end on the BIQU so my mount will only work if you do that if you don't then the BL touch won't be at the right distance.
My max (I have had it since April) was great out of the box, I started with a BLTouch so, no comparison. I did a dial gauge mount to tram the bad, got it to within half a thousandth of an inch. hen today the BLTouch started going wonky on me, can't even get a print started with the printer halting due to probing errors. Runs the self-diagnostic fine, deploys, and stows without issue but can not get through a bed leveling sequence. Any ideas?
I added the dual z access and the CR touch which has made a world of difference for me. Now I have th Biqu H2 but can't seem to find the simple mount that you printed out for it. Could you provide a link to it if you have time. Thanks for everything.
Here is a link to the one I made, I but a volcano hot end on my H2 so the tip was a little lower than just a stock H2, so not sure if this will be short enough and not interfere. drive.google.com/file/d/1QnQjVopxLLNfEoOWWmkZfEnY7PCwPfly/view?usp=sharing
with a direct drive unit on the MAX, would it be better to use a CR Touch instead of the BL Touch since the CR Touch does not use a magnetic hall effect sensor?
Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to make it. I am definitely going to add the dual Z axis, then Bl Touch and finally the Biqu H2 Extruder. I am not having any heat creep and I have printed a helmet that took over 3 days so I don't think I need the fans. Do you believe I will need them when I upgrade the hot end? Thanks again for the video and look forward to any updates you may post.
What cooling ducts did you use for the biqu ....couldn't really see from video Had my Max about a month now but immediately thinking about dual Z conversion and quietening it down as it's so noisy compared to my modded 3 pro Shame they only put silent steppers on X and Y axis! My extruder sounds like a dot matrix printer 🙉
Hi! Thanks for the video! Had some problems with my ender 3 max and bought the biqu h2 direct-drive but know Im having a hard time founding a good mount for the drive and especially the double fans that exist on the ender 3 max. What did you use? Looks like you've just used a single cooling fan for the extruder?
I think it's worth buying. It generally works very well, but does require some upkeep as do all the 3D printers. It's not an item that you can pull out of the box and start using right away.
I just used the same connections. I didn't even open the the case to the board, I detached or cut the wires that were going to the old hotend and then connected the BIQU wires to them. After that you can change the e steps and amps to match what the BIQU recommends.
@@waltsreviews90 thank you, I have been working g on a few things to get mine installed on a Ender 3 Max. Been hunting any amount of information I can find but it has been sparce to say the least. If you ever make a video about this particular part Im Sure many would be all over it.
Here is a link to the one I made, but a volcano hot end on my H2 so the tip was a little lower than just a stock H2, so not sure if this will be short enough and not interfere. drive.google.com/file/d/1QnQjVopxLLNfEoOWWmkZfEnY7PCwPfly/view?usp=sharing
I bought one of these printers and it will print on bed after few minutes theres just a blob of filament on build plate even wont build the vase or box that comes with USB stick pla and abs filament I'm using no difference
Without actually looking at it I can only guess... But I've had a similar issue when the extruder height was not calibrated properly. If it's too low you'll scratch the bed but if it's too high, the material you are printing with won't be able to adhere to the bed and will clump up. Eventually it will get big enough and get stuck on the bed.
@@waltsreviews90 Nice. I grew up in Fort Collins! I have most of these mods on the way, thru your affil. I got the microswiss DD but the max fun shroud doesn't fit on it. I'll try that h2.
@@waltsreviews90 Also. Did you ever upgrade the board? I have a 4.2.7 board and the v2 LCD. Th3d firmware should work but I was curious if you had upgraded that too
I’m just glad it’s about the max Good video I like do dual z if get mine back going. Bout take bl touch back off go back stock least made a few prints. Lol. I’m welder mechanic by trade computer not so much just learns how clear my sd card. That’s not lol. Is there printing for dummies yellow book. Lol.
I've had mine for 7 months now and the only thing I have added is the bl touch. I use a glue stick and a spray bottle of water for bed adhesion and haven't had any problems
Great tips, thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for making this tutorial, I was never able to find a dual Z-axis video for the Ender 3 Max as well as a new extruder upgrade. Once again, great video!
Hello! My Ender 3 MAX is on its way, i think that the dual z axis upgrade is a must with that frame size. Thank You for the information and a montage video.
You're very welcome. I hope you enjoy it!
Because of your vid I did a dual z on my Ender Max, and it's fantastic now! A few other upgrades now as well, I told myself, "DO NOTBECOME A MOD FREAK" and that lasted all of 4 seconds after getting this thing haha! :D
Ha, I know the feeling!
Also had the BLT issue, fixed with a cheap ferite ring, pas the BLT cable through 3 times so 3 coils through the ring, the ring is under the machine just behind the control box, fixes the interference and glitching, easier and cheaper than screening ;)
That's a great idea, thanks for sharing.
@@waltsreviews90 Can confirm I have had zero problems for xouple of weeks now, so its nailed it for me quick and easy :)
I have been struggling a lot with trying to get the bed leveled, I wanted a bl toutch but didn't want to have to go through the hassle of soldering and all that stuff but I didn't know THAT THE CONNECTIONS ARE ALREADY THERE. Just ordered it through your affiliate link, thank you so much!
Get the Cr touch not the bl touch
No problem, thanks for using the affiliate link. Much appreciated!
Loved your video and thinking of getting a 3 max soon could you please make a tutorial on how you put all 3 fans on the printer
Is it possible to get the STL for the mounting bracket? great review, ordering the extruder right away!
Yes I just put it in the description but here it is drive.google.com/file/d/1QnQjVopxLLNfEoOWWmkZfEnY7PCwPfly/view?usp=sharing
The montage was sick my dude
Thanks man!
I just got it today and I had huge Z issues on my 3 max out of the box.
It turns 2 out of the 3 rollers on the right (outer rollers) don't really make contact with the rail. Unscrewing and jiggling things slightly made 2 out of 3 rollers make contact and it works great.
Glad you were able to resolve it so quick, hope you enjoy it!
Weird when you see one group of people have issues with something that another group doesn't....and then go on to spend X $$$'s to fix issues others don't have at all.
But some of these were gold.
Yup, luck of the draw I guess.
Great video! Convinced me to buy a BL touch
I happy to see someone do this! I have a max and had some of the same issues.Only Difference with mine was I used a dual z kit for a V2 because I found one for $23 and I found the lead screw on Amazon too but I used a 480mm one which is the same size as the one it came with. I had the heat creep problem too but what helped me was I changed the feed tube.With the BL touch what I did with the bed was go to Home Depot and found 1in tube spacers and got rid of the springs!! Any adjustment on first layer I use Z offset under the tune when running.I also found string happening and after hours of study I found the nozzle wasnt out the sock enough so I trimmed it back and now ZERO issues. The direct drive Im thinking about but I dont do enough flexable to justify one....YET! LOL! Sorry to be long winded about this but no one is doing what we are doing with these and I have NO CLUE how to make a video! LOL! Keep it up
Thanks for sharing. Yes my 500mm stick above the frame a bit, 480 is the size I should have done to match exactly. I will look into those tube spacers, sounds interesting. The direct drive extruder isn't necessary, it made it slightly easier for me to dial in retraction, but I think that is because my other printers are direct drive so I had some experience with relative numbers to work with.
Sounds awesome
Could you please explain a little more about the string/nozzle solution?
Well I played with z offset in tune till I figured out what works for me. The biggest thing I found was being to close to the bed with the nozzle. But adding the dual Z made prints so much more stable. The solid mounts for the bed and use of a CR touch make things soo much easier on your mind. I've gone 2+ months without a fail and no adjustments. It took a lot of watching and thinking about why it was being a pain! You don't have to spend a lot of money to get it good. Like the solid mounts cost me $4, the dual z was $26& the cr touch was $36. Hope this helps
@@davidjohnson8474 Do you have any links to the 480mm lead screw?
Thanks. I was considering this printer + hotend combo and glad to see it worked out well :)
No problem!
Retraction settings for Biqu H2 extruder please. Did you also change motor current for the new extruder?
I am using stock motor and my retraction settings are 0.5 distance and 3 speed
Can you please make the full video of you installing the new lead screw and dual axis kit?
Would love to see how you jammed the 60mm fan into the motherboard enclosure. The stock fan is thinner and barely fits.
He probably printed one of the handful of replacement covers that are on thingverse.
I really like your videos man! I was back and forth about a bl touch but I think I might get them for all 3 of my machines. I just recently added the ender 3 max to my collection and am now running my first big print on it…over 6 days long. You really got me thinking about these upgrades now. I also have a CR10v2 and it has the dual z rods and I love that thing! Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thank you, it's great to hear that the videos are helpful.
With the dual z kit you've used, the location of the brass nut isn't quite aligned with the position of the stepper motor. You can see this at 3:45 when you move the x-gantry down. The left lead screw leans over to the right as it is forced into place by the misaligned brass nut. I had the same thing happen to my Ender 3 V2. The fix for me was to use a 3D printed bracket instead of the metal one.
Interesting I hadn't noticed that. Thanks for sharing, do you by chance have a link to the 3D printed bracket?
I used this one here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3742027
@@dondo8661 Thanks!
I was looking for this, nice video!
Thanks!
Walt, thank a bunch!!! I will going with the dual z-axis, bl-touch, and Biqu H2 DD. The fans I will pass, for now. The montage was very good! But, it does require music! A montage MUST have music! Cheers...
Ha, I may have to get some beats going. You're not the first person to request :)
I would suggest an installation video about the components in detail, even though the content is great but I'm still afraid to touch those electrical stuff.
Same, i would really want to take these steps but i am afraid i will mess up something.
I might do that in the future, thanks for letting me know people want that.
@@waltsreviews90 Please make a video walking us through the installation of the fans.
An Idiots guide to bl/cr touch would be amazing im struggling so much with getting this thing to work properly lol
especially with replacing the power supply fan, it can be very dangerous if your bridge a connection with either your finger or something your holding (even if the psu is not plugged in), if the wattage is high enough you could die. Id recommend at least having a disclaimer that people should be very careful with opening a psu and to not attempt at all if not experienced.
could you post another link for the buck convertor needed? The link is dead..thank you.
Great video. It's been a lot of help.
Ok, without wanting to be an ass towards Walt's.... DO NOT USE A 40X10 NOCTUA 12V FAN FOR YOUR HOTEND COOLING. When I got my ender max, the first thing I changed was the Bowden tube to the blue capricorn one. Made 6 prints averaging at 2h each, NEVER had any issues.
I then received my 3 fans, the exact same as in the video. I changed the hot end fan first. I instantly started having heat creeps and that, even by lowering the nozzle temp by 10C and by raising up the printer speed by 10mm/s as well as the flow by 10% to try to prevent it. Heat creeps has now been happening within 25 mins and they were non existant before.
The CFM is more or less half the one of the stock fan. So now I have to purchase another brand to make it right again. I think that the capricorn tubing being narrower might help in the heat creep process at some point. But clearly this is because of the fan.
Get another brand or install a bigger Noctua fan with a new hotend shroud instead of using the A4x10 FLX model shown in this vid. I wouldn't be surprised that he ended up having heat creeps also after this installation, perhaps it was just slightly better because of the stock Bowden tube with bigger diameter.
Anyhow, hopefully this message can help people not waste money on that model. The 120mm Noctua for the PSU is amazing and I love it. I have yet to install the 60mm for the Motherboard but I'm sure for that purpose it's going to be perfect.
No offense taken! Appreciate your input, especially in a non trolling way. Always happy to hear other people's opinions. And I actually get some really great advice from comments.
@@waltsreviews90 glad you didn't take it personnal :) Where did you get the stl for the motherboard cover to install the 60mm fan?
You made me buy BIQU H2 extruder and i have it for a month now. I finally got rid of heat creaps and all the issues related to it. Thank you for this video and i hope that in future you would publish new mods like linear rails for X axis or something similar. Also it would be greath if you could provide us link to the mounting bracket STL since the one i am using now is awful. :)
Really glad to hear its working well for you! Thanks for the request on the video topic, I'll see if I have time!
drive.google.com/file/d/1QnQjVopxLLNfEoOWWmkZfEnY7PCwPfly/view?usp=sharing
Good day sir, I'm in need of your assistance. I just finished installing a dual z axis control, direct drive extruder and also replaced the original hot end with a direct replacement onto my Ender 3 Max. I already had a BL touch installed but now for some odd reason, when I try to auto home, the z bar is about 140mm off the bed and refuses to go any lower. I'm at my wits end with this and would greatly appreciate any help trouble shooting please, thank you.
Please make a video explaining how to install the fans. Thank you
Sorry I didn't, but the ender 3 pro is the same process, I watched a video of someone doing it to an ender 3 pro and just followed that, there a few out there.
Good morning friend, the cooler you used on the psu was connected on the same connectors of the original cooler or you connected directly on the 12 volts
Thanks for the heads up!
@@waltsreviews90 I installed one too but the cooler keeps turning on and off all the time, the source pins do not offer voltage (12v) all the time, do you know how to make the cooler work all the time?
Do you have a guide on how to install the biqu extruder? Just purchased one and have no idea how to install it
Thank you so much for this video! I am trying to find instructions online on how to connect the fans, and the parts that need to be printed, If you know of a site that gives step by step instructions, that would be amazing.
Hi,
i just bought a Ender 3D max printer... but i can't find anywhere how to install driver in Cura 12 and how to print from Cura 12 via USB cable connected to the computer . Can you please make a video?
Thank you.
Doesn't the ender 3 Max have a 480mm lead screw???
You added a second z-axis lead screw because you felt like it struggled a bit? In particular, what would it do?
Toying with this Ender 3 Max at the moment, it's only a tiny amount more than the Ender 3 v2 (or about £60 more than the V3 Pro). Only thing currently putting me off it, is the lack of exact same support/amount of videos that the regular Ender 3's have.....sure most will work, some may need adapting, but when its trying to get around those workarounds that makes me wonder if best getting the smaller model purely for the level of support and videos
The V2 will be easier to find stuff on and take less time to modify because of that, if you want to get things done quick and not tinker go with V2, if you need the large size and willing to mess around a bit you can go with the max
Did you have to make any adjustments to the Z axis stepper motor power? When I installed the second Z axis, and plugged in the Y cable, the motors wouldn't lift the gantry anymore. They would make noise but not lift the gantry without some help. They go down OK. I disconnected the screws and moved the gantry by hand, it moves smoothly with no binding.
3:45 quite a lot of movement in that top left!
Can you share link for the model of mount on Ender 3 Max please?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4908847
@@co3lhopt thanks a LOT!
great and honest review, I was in a midst of choosing ender 3 max or the sidewinder x1, and correct me if I am wrong,. the sidewinder x1 gives the least problems out off the box, I am trying to decide which one should I get for my first 3d printer.
My personal experience was great with the X1, I recommend that over the ender 3 max
When you add a 2nd z-axis lead screw do you need an anti-backlash nut on that side as well? My ender 3 max came with one on the factory screw. Is that enough if going to dual screws?
Great video - would you happen to have the links to the part cooling and mounting plates you used? Did you have to create an additional mount for the BLtouch or were you able to use the stock? Thank you
The hot end fan interferes with printing abs. That's why I ordered the biqu h2. Only thing I need to know is are there any gotchas with the Ender 3 and does the thermistor require a firmware update.
What mount did you use to install the H2
Regarding the Dual Z upgrade, what will you do with the Meanwell power supply, have you found a way to mount it somewhere, or are you just going to leave it laying on the table?
I have seen people mount it laying down flat under the bed in the middle of the frame. I haven't done that because then the fan I used would be likely to have something fall into it. There are some other ways and if I get some time, I may mount it to the frame some day, but right now I just leave it off to the side. I don't move my printer often, so not a big deal for me, but if you do you would want to mount it.
About time some one posted a video about upgrades, especially the dual Z, I would have to say that Creality really needed to look at this and start using it on there printers. Thank you for sharing the links as well to all the parts.
You're welcome, glad to help!
Fantastic video Walt. You got me to pick one up an H2 for my Max. Quick question though How did you go about calibrating your printer to work with it? I cant find any information from the company. P.S. I also coupled it with the hermit crab change tool.
Did you end up figuring it out?
What firmware did you use for the BL Touch? Creality’s firmware version for 4.2.2 motherboard bl touch is giving me issues. I was able to calibrate the Z axis offset to -4.75, so when I autohomed it, it gave me a Z axis value of 14.75. Then when I move the Z axis down to 0.0 it has the perfect grip on a piece of printer paper so I stored settings. I then went into Cura and loaded a test stl file with a few skirts that covered the edges of the bed. Then I edited the start gcode to look like this:
G28 ; home of axis
G29 ; probe 9/9 spots on bed
M412 S0 ; disable filament runout sensor
M117 ; purge extruder
G92 EQ ; reset extruder
*Rest below is normal start gcode*
After this when I start print, it follows all commands but when starting skirt, nozzle is either too close or too far. So I tried using Babystep Z axis to adjust nozzle height which worked but while it was circling the bed, the Z axis motor kept adjusting nozzle height causing it to go either up or down too much not giving me the perfect layer.
Am I doing anything wrong and is there anything I can do to fix this?
Any suggestions is appreciated thank you!
just fitted cr-10 dual z on my ender 3 max,spot on,just trimmed the lead screw down to make it neat,just wandering why the max has the backlash nut on top near the extruder instead of underneath any one know,all others have them underneath,thanks.
Is there any way you can add the STL file for the biqu H2 mount? But great content man.
They stopped selling this one on amazon or at least last time I checked so started ordering it from the company. but thanks for the input.
Would you buy an ender 3 max or an artillery X2 if you where just starting out and wanted a big build volume?
I would go with the artillery. It's physically bigger, so you can get a bigger build volume like you are looking for. Also, I've spend less time trying to repair it compared to my ender.
Odd, I got two of these machines and all stock running basicly non stop for a month with no printing issue no mod, and they lay the first layer like it was a sheet of paper and I've only had to level it once. So, you must just got a bad printer or being total blind like I am makes a differance :P
Yes I think I just got unlucky, I have heard mostly good things about Creality.
I bought 2 took my time setting both up and calibrating .. one i have to constantly lvl .. the one i got for my boy hardly ever mess w lvl once its set.
yo dude your videos are awesome. Just got my Ender 3 Max, replaced the stock blower fan, ugh. great job with these keep it up! Currently having an issue with the power supply fan. gonna keep looking. Maybe Marlin firmware upgrade would help?
I have two of the ender 3 max and I was tempted to take the lead screw off the second one to have a dual lead screw set up, what do you think?
Can you provide the slt model of the supports?
Yes I will try to get that up soon, I just moved and won't have time to dig that up for a little. Just FYI I put a volcano hot end on the BIQU so my mount will only work if you do that if you don't then the BL touch won't be at the right distance.
Is there a better option for a large format 3D printer out of the box?
Nice video, Did you only replace the main van on the hot end or also the 2 side fans? And is it still working?
Can you make upgrades for this printer?
Great video, How did you mount the Noctura and the blower fans to the Biqu?
Gday mate if you buy the accessories kit with screw do you need to still buy the other screw on its own??
My max (I have had it since April) was great out of the box, I started with a BLTouch so, no comparison. I did a dial gauge mount to tram the bad, got it to within half a thousandth of an inch. hen today the BLTouch started going wonky on me, can't even get a print started with the printer halting due to probing errors. Runs the self-diagnostic fine, deploys, and stows without issue but can not get through a bed leveling sequence.
Any ideas?
Yes, for me it was electrical interference. This fixed it amzn.to/3hbHDHq
What is the largest print you have done?? also can you only print 275x275 due to the offsets for the printhead in Cura??
I have only printed 200 by 300 so far, I not sure but I don't think cura will limit it to 275.
I added the dual z access and the CR touch which has made a world of difference for me. Now I have th Biqu H2 but can't seem to find the simple mount that you printed out for it. Could you provide a link to it if you have time. Thanks for everything.
Here is a link to the one I made, I but a volcano hot end on my H2 so the tip was a little lower than just a stock H2, so not sure if this will be short enough and not interfere.
drive.google.com/file/d/1QnQjVopxLLNfEoOWWmkZfEnY7PCwPfly/view?usp=sharing
@@waltsreviews90 Thank you for sharing.
What is the proper size for the z axis, it looks like they updated the listing and added more sizes
His description says 500mm so you can look up 500mm 8mm t8x8 on Amazon and it’ll come up. Looks like his listing they removed the 500mm option.
with a direct drive unit on the MAX, would it be better to use a CR Touch instead of the BL Touch since the CR Touch does not use a magnetic hall effect sensor?
I can't answer since I haven't used a CR touch, but you logic makes sense to me.
Curious about the bed temperature issue. Guessing you decided to just live with it? edit: the outer bed temperature being much lower
Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to make it. I am definitely going to add the dual Z axis, then Bl Touch and finally the Biqu H2 Extruder. I am not having any heat creep and I have printed a helmet that took over 3 days so I don't think I need the fans. Do you believe I will need them when I upgrade the hot end? Thanks again for the video and look forward to any updates you may post.
No if you did a 3 day print, your fan is working great. Also the H2 comes with its own fan which is smaller too just FYI.
Added the dual Z axis, ordered the CR Touch.
I had the same z axis problem. I solved it with 4 washers. I paid 0,16€ for them.
I'll have to try that out, thank you for the tip.
What cooling ducts did you use for the biqu ....couldn't really see from video
Had my Max about a month now but immediately thinking about dual Z conversion and quietening it down as it's so noisy compared to my modded 3 pro
Shame they only put silent steppers on X and Y axis!
My extruder sounds like a dot matrix printer 🙉
5015 blower fan: amzn.to/3xb12xH is what I used for part cooling.
@@waltsreviews90 did you not use a nozzle to direct it onto the print?
Hi! Thanks for the video! Had some problems with my ender 3 max and bought the biqu h2 direct-drive but know Im having a hard time founding a good mount for the drive and especially the double fans that exist on the ender 3 max. What did you use? Looks like you've just used a single cooling fan for the extruder?
What firmware did you use? My BL-Touch failed with the firmware from the creality site.
hi,can anyone tell me if the 4.2.7 silent board will work on the ender 3 max as iv heard it has the same electronics as th ender 3 pro.
The H2 is good, but not at all the 'best' extruder there is. There are other great options, some of them better than the H2 in its current state.
how did you manage to get the z offset right?
Is the ender 3 max worth buyin any pros or cons with this printer
I think it's worth buying. It generally works very well, but does require some upkeep as do all the 3D printers. It's not an item that you can pull out of the box and start using right away.
@@waltsreviews90 do u gotta replace the extruder as well on the ender 3 max and Bowden tube to
Any knowledge of how exactly to install the biqu h2 to a reality 4.2.2 board? there are 0 videos that show that step. :/
I just used the same connections. I didn't even open the the case to the board, I detached or cut the wires that were going to the old hotend and then connected the BIQU wires to them. After that you can change the e steps and amps to match what the BIQU recommends.
@@waltsreviews90 thank you, I have been working g on a few things to get mine installed on a Ender 3 Max. Been hunting any amount of information I can find but it has been sparce to say the least. If you ever make a video about this particular part Im Sure many would be all over it.
Do you have the STL for H2 mounting bracket? I'm having a hard time finding any that people don't complain about.
I also need the STL for the H2
Here is a link to the one I made, but a volcano hot end on my H2 so the tip was a little lower than just a stock H2, so not sure if this will be short enough and not interfere.
drive.google.com/file/d/1QnQjVopxLLNfEoOWWmkZfEnY7PCwPfly/view?usp=sharing
hi,could put the cr-10 dual z kit on my ender 3 max please.
I can't say for sure, sorry. I would guess yes, but thats just a guess.
@@waltsreviews90 ok thanks,just thinking about the stepper motor,if its the same,thanks
I bought one of these printers and it will print on bed after few minutes theres just a blob of filament on build plate even wont build the vase or box that comes with USB stick pla and abs filament I'm using no difference
Without actually looking at it I can only guess... But I've had a similar issue when the extruder height was not calibrated properly. If it's too low you'll scratch the bed but if it's too high, the material you are printing with won't be able to adhere to the bed and will clump up. Eventually it will get big enough and get stuck on the bed.
dual z for the ender 3 pro fit on max ??
Yes but you have to buy a longer rod seperate.
Oh shoot you're in Colorado? Where at?
Northern CO
@@waltsreviews90 Nice. I grew up in Fort Collins! I have most of these mods on the way, thru your affil. I got the microswiss DD but the max fun shroud doesn't fit on it. I'll try that h2.
@@waltsreviews90 Also. Did you ever upgrade the board? I have a 4.2.7 board and the v2 LCD. Th3d firmware should work but I was curious if you had upgraded that too
We got are Ender-3 max and we have not done any upgrades. We are doing a big print right now and it has been ruining for 21 hours none stop.
Awesome, glad to hear that it is running well!
I’m just glad it’s about the max Good video I like do dual z if get mine back going. Bout take bl touch back off go back stock least made a few prints. Lol. I’m welder mechanic by trade computer not so much just learns how clear my sd card. That’s not lol. Is there printing for dummies yellow book. Lol.
lol
does anyone have this stl?
I have the same problem on the z axis, i will buy the ender pro kit and a separate axis. Do you know how many entries the spindle thread is?
Oops... I found it here in the description. thank you very much. It's hard because here in Brazil everything is very expensive
men can you upload you firmware in github plz ? :)
stock firmware
Yeah most video’s say max then whammy it’s pro or joe or freakin something. Lol but not max.
meant to say could i.
Seeing what all these little parts costs, you could have bought 2x proper printers than Creality garbage ;)
That wasn't a montage. Where's the music? You make the 80's sad. Arnold is sad. Rocky and Rambo are sad. Nerd's are sad. Ski and beach movies are sad.
EYE OF THE TIGER!!!
@@waltsreviews90 There you go! Haha. Thanks for your videos. I just bought one of these.
What fan duct you using?