after buying this one back we decided to try and fix it. here's the progress... Check out the Merch Store for all your Hardcore Gear!! my-store-ba53c...
I bought a locked up 1992 2.5 with 80K back in 2000. An old man had Alzheimer's and blew the head gasket. Cracked the head in 17 places. Heads were plentiful back then so I got another and had the same machine shop rework the head. Dude handed dad back a bag of parts with the old head. Put the good head on the truck after rebuilding the bottom end. The compression would test 130 on most of the cylinders some of the time, but 3 cylinders would test 85 about every other time. This is the hydraulic roller engine so we started thinking the lifters weren't staying pumped. Changed the lifters, just because dad worked there and we bought them there. It was a good 6 months before dad happened to think about the bag of parts. I have little doubt they put the overheated valve springs on the good head. I later bought new cast iron factory rockers and springs from Autozone for a good deal and that helped even more. Gave her a little more HP, so most likely they were warped/and the overheated ones perhaps. Maybe a rookie mistake on their part, but yes when you throw things like that in the mix it hurts. My real problem now, is after having the intake pulled away from the block to get the lifters out, I've got a vacuum leak and the entire TBI and lines removed and get her cleaned again. BUT after all these years the dash is ready to fall in my lap, and the turn signal is messed up from a ground backfeed in the steering column switch deep down inside. Heck I got a 1970 350/300 to rebuild and stick right onto the 5 speed. Yet she's such a beast, I may as well tear it totally apart and put all new seals in the body and windows...... Last thing you want to do is deal with that rear seal on the oil pan. The gasket kit from fel pro had an orange rubber seal that was 3/32" too thick. On the 92 model, there is no lip on the main journal or the oil pan gasket surface to stay in place, so really even when its good, the seal is virtually ready to bust out of the gap. Mine has stayed but I didn't like it when I put it in. I had seen it squish out 15 times just trying to get the pan on rebuilding it. Actually just a problem with having rubber and cork gaskets mixed on the same pan. She's driven 3 good years since. Just couldn't get her inspected, the dash thing really does suck. Hard to find interior parts around here anyways. Turns out with the back feeding from the switch, I don't think the water temp gauge ever worked. The gauge itself had an issue showing "normal" temp all the time. I bet the older guy never noticed it went out. I've reset it and it still goes back to normal and stays after that. From the time I got it the speedometer and gas gauge would increase when you would rev the engine up. Every gauge but the thermostat.
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I bought a locked up 1992 2.5 with 80K back in 2000. An old man had Alzheimer's and blew the head gasket. Cracked the head in 17 places. Heads were plentiful back then so I got another and had the same machine shop rework the head. Dude handed dad back a bag of parts with the old head.
Put the good head on the truck after rebuilding the bottom end. The compression would test 130 on most of the cylinders some of the time, but 3 cylinders would test 85 about every other time.
This is the hydraulic roller engine so we started thinking the lifters weren't staying pumped. Changed the lifters, just because dad worked there and we bought them there. It was a good 6 months before dad happened to think about the bag of parts.
I have little doubt they put the overheated valve springs on the good head. I later bought new cast iron factory rockers and springs from Autozone for a good deal and that helped even more. Gave her a little more HP, so most likely they were warped/and the overheated ones perhaps. Maybe a rookie mistake on their part, but yes when you throw things like that in the mix it hurts.
My real problem now, is after having the intake pulled away from the block to get the lifters out, I've got a vacuum leak and the entire TBI and lines removed and get her cleaned again.
BUT after all these years the dash is ready to fall in my lap, and the turn signal is messed up from a ground backfeed in the steering column switch deep down inside. Heck I got a 1970 350/300 to rebuild and stick right onto the 5 speed. Yet she's such a beast, I may as well tear it totally apart and put all new seals in the body and windows......
Last thing you want to do is deal with that rear seal on the oil pan. The gasket kit from fel pro had an orange rubber seal that was 3/32" too thick. On the 92 model, there is no lip on the main journal or the oil pan gasket surface to stay in place, so really even when its good, the seal is virtually ready to bust out of the gap. Mine has stayed but I didn't like it when I put it in. I had seen it squish out 15 times just trying to get the pan on rebuilding it. Actually just a problem with having rubber and cork gaskets mixed on the same pan.
She's driven 3 good years since. Just couldn't get her inspected, the dash thing really does suck. Hard to find interior parts around here anyways.
Turns out with the back feeding from the switch, I don't think the water temp gauge ever worked. The gauge itself had an issue showing "normal" temp all the time. I bet the older guy never noticed it went out. I've reset it and it still goes back to normal and stays after that. From the time I got it the speedometer and gas gauge would increase when you would rev the engine up. Every gauge but the thermostat.
The memories these things create is awesome
✌🏻