Okay, I understand getting a nice fresh surface for the mating of head and block. What I don't understand is how you removed all the abrasives that came off the sanding block? I'd be real nervous about leaving even trace amounts of the grit.
I blew a head gasket on my 1990 s10, decked the block and put it all back together and bent my #4 exhaust pushrod. Did removing material off the head cause the adjustment on the valve train to be off? With my new pushrods and lifter would I need shims?
Depending on how much material was removed it could potentially have caused your issue, it also could have just been by chance, perhaps the pushrod wasn't seated 100%, I've done that before.
All were torqued, GM manual states they are done so with #1 at TDC, however, I've always rolled engines over and rechecked Lash, these like most engines are zero lash engines, the rocker arms have a shanked stud with a pivoting ball, allowing the nut to only be torqued to the end of that shank not allowing for lash adjustment like you would have on something like say a traditional SBC. Mopar Magnum V8s are done so similarly, using a select mark on the balancer to fasten and torque the rocker arms.
Thank you very much. I have a 1945 Willys Jeep with that engine swapped but it has been difficult to find parts because there are so many applications that it was used in, and small issues make it hard at the parts store due to young employes not understanding if you don't give them the right application Lol. I have tried looking up the block number but to no avail, seems you can look up all GM engines except the Iron Duke. Thanks again!@@therealguygarage2668
This is excellent. Super helpful and very thorough
Very helpful. I did not do the engine work on my truck. Hope the guy that did was as patiently detailed as you.
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Can the cylinder liners be removed or are they built into the block?
These rngines are parent bore, they do not use liners, the cylinder bores are machined into the block.
Okay, I understand getting a nice fresh surface for the mating of head and block. What I don't understand is how you removed all the abrasives that came off the sanding block? I'd be real nervous about leaving even trace amounts of the grit.
Everything was washed off with solvents, after its run the first time all fluids get changed.
I blew a head gasket on my 1990 s10, decked the block and put it all back together and bent my #4 exhaust pushrod. Did removing material off the head cause the adjustment on the valve train to be off? With my new pushrods and lifter would I need shims?
Depending on how much material was removed it could potentially have caused your issue, it also could have just been by chance, perhaps the pushrod wasn't seated 100%, I've done that before.
So only first cylinder needs to be set to TDC and torque to 24ft vs each cylinder?
All were torqued, GM manual states they are done so with #1 at TDC, however, I've always rolled engines over and rechecked Lash, these like most engines are zero lash engines, the rocker arms have a shanked stud with a pivoting ball, allowing the nut to only be torqued to the end of that shank not allowing for lash adjustment like you would have on something like say a traditional SBC.
Mopar Magnum V8s are done so similarly, using a select mark on the balancer to fasten and torque the rocker arms.
Is that the 151ci - 2.5 Iron Duke? Thanks. nice vid!
Yes it absolutely is!
Thank you very much. I have a 1945 Willys Jeep with that engine swapped but it has been difficult to find parts because there are so many applications that it was used in, and small issues make it hard at the parts store due to young employes not understanding if you don't give them the right application Lol. I have tried looking up the block number but to no avail, seems you can look up all GM engines except the Iron Duke. Thanks again!@@therealguygarage2668
Are those pushrods all the same length?
Yes, the pushrods are all of equal length.