VW Mk1 Brake master cylinder and vacuum booster overview, Bendix, ATE, Westmoreland and German
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Brake master cylinder and vacuum booster overview and differences between Bendix and ATE. From Westmoreland and German manufactured Mk1's
If you find these videos helpful I appreciate your support! buymeacoffee.c...
July '23: Thanks for all your work and parts display, in order to put this info together. I have an '81 Diesel Pickup(Caddy) that I've owned since '94. The original master just failed, in the same way that yours did, due to me not ever flushing the brake system. I was only able to find the Chinese replacement masters, and had the same poor results with 2 of them: The pedal has almost no feel to it, for several inches, even though the brakes are actually functioning, and the booster hisses. Once this "no feel" area of pedal movement has been used up, the pedal becomes firm and will not be able to be pushed further down. Thinking I had 2 poorly built chinese master cylinders, I just ordered an NOS Ate master, which is only 4 ports like my original, and the box was labeled "Rabbit" on the part number tag. But having installed it, it give the exact same pedal feel. It's embossed on the side "20" indicating 20mm, whereas my original (and yours) VW master, is embossed "21".
I have not been able to find the Cardone 11-1885 that you show, which is clearly a rebuild VW 21 unit. In fact, RockAuto does show it, and I ordered it, but received yet another Chinese master. Do you know of any sources for the Cardone? Also, any thoughts on my "new-to-me" weird pedal function?
I'm actually tempted to put my original one back on. I took it apart, cleaned it and the pistons and cups, and gave it hone, as you did.
UPDATE: Problem Solved with video showing issue...th-cam.com/video/5P-yYW0CIcQ/w-d-xo.html
There is a rubber spacer washer inside the booster that can fall out when the Master is removed, thus creating about 1/4" of extra play in the brake actuation rod, resulting in a pedal with no feel, a pedal that goes nearly to the floor, and a hiss from the booster, every the brake pedal is stepped on.
I am in the same boat, unable to find a master for reasonable price for the 1983 GTI that I am trying to get on the road. Sorry for the delay in responding, ATE parts are easier to find and the Bendix parts for these vehicles especially the GTI since they were only made for 2 years makes this difficult. Do not throw away your cores there are companies and machine shops that can resleeve your old master cylinder although I have not used that service or searched for the companies that offer this service
@@nigel-Rollercam-channel I figured out the problem after messaging you and forgot to update my message (which I just did).
There's a rubber spacer washer inside the cup in the booster, that holds the base of the rod that actuates the master. When the old master is removed, the rod can stick to the master, and be pulled out of that cup that's in the booster. If this happens, there's a chance that the base of the rod will be stuck to the rubber spacer, pull the spacer out of the cup, and then the spacer simply falls down into the bottom of the booster. There's no way to feel or see this happening, and no way to know it's happened, unless you pull the rod, and the rubber seal out of the front of the booster, and look inside, at what the cup looks like. If the cup looks "deep" and has a round, silver, metal, center area... it means the spacer has fallen out. If the cup is not very deep, and has a black center, the spacer is still in position.
Here's my video detailing the discovery and how I repaired it: th-cam.com/video/5P-yYW0CIcQ/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful video! I'm about to install a rebuilt Bendix Booster and new MC and I was wondering if the bracket that mounts the Booster to the firewall is the same for all MK1s and MK2s?
I see some clean rust free ones for sale on ebay that I want to buy, but I'm not sure if this is a Universal part for all years like I am hoping it is. Never know if this part is pulled from a late cabriolet or a MK2.
I cannot be certain however if a part number is present on the part which is usually the case, the first 3 digits of the nine digit part number should be 171 for Mk1 and 191 for Mk2
Hi there, thank you for the video, it's very informative as I replace my brake booster and MC. Hoping you can answer a question for me. I'm swapping my MC ('82 diesel rabbit) and it has both top brake lines connected to the front ports and both rear ports are plugged with brake light sensors. This doesn't seem right to me based on the images in your video. Any idea why the lines would be connected to the front and should I connect the new one the same? Thank you!
I cannot be 100% sure about your 1982 diesel, if you have a brake light switch on the pedal cluster under the dash then you car replace your 6 port M/C with a 4 port (assuming the brake lines have not been modified) If you have electrical lines going to the 2 brake light switches and they are not just there to block the ports then you should look for a 6 port M/C. Ideally bring your old master cylinder with you to which ever parts place you go too, from what I have seen the pictures on line and many parts places just show the wrong item so you have to be very careful reading the description and looking at the images. Hope that helps, I'm really bad at responding to comments. Good luck with the work on your Rabbit, Cheers! the 4 port Cardone M/C i used has a 11-1885 part number
I have the same booster that you restored as well as the 4 port master. I notice in the Bentley book they show an O ring when it has the other style master. Does the 4 port or bendix style booster require an O ring with the master? I didn't see one on mine. Thanks for any input.
I am pretty sure that the O-ring (19:14 on the video) between the master cylinder and ATE booster is required since it assists in containing the vacuum between the servo housing, diaphragm and the giant hole that the master cylinder fits into. The Bendix uses a rubber covered metal washer that achieves the same purpose seen at 3:06.
I'm a technician (mostly domestic) working on a good buddies 1992 cab that sat for 5 years outside. Brake pedal when applied sticks down. Any quick advice? From experience im thinking master cylinder or is there I common issue i should know?
Sorry I didn't get to you sooner, The cabriolet will have the ATE parts which are similar looking but different than the Bendix parts on my Westmooreland Rabbit. You will have no trouble dealing with this considering your experience and have likely completed the work since I was so tardy in responding. I'd likely change out the wheel cylinders in the rear since I find that they get overlooked and are frequently weeping/leaking. Other than that it's same same but different than the domestics. I hope it all went/goes smoothly
@@nigel-Rollercam-channel yeah it was master cylinder. But need to give rear brakes some attention next.
Sorry, do you know which brake máster cylinder is that of a mk1 1.6d base model without brake booster. I can’t find it anywhere.
I'm definitely not familiar with that model, diesels should have a separate vacuum pump where the gas engines distributor would normally be. There should be a brake booster and likely an ATE brake master cylinder but measuring the master cylinder attachment spacing will give you clues, plus there is normally a manufacturing stamp in the M/C casting
Hi Nigel, where did you find the gaskets / washers you used to rebuild the bendix brake booster?
I was not able to find anything new to replace those old parts so I just used evaporust on the corroded parts and cleaned the rubber parts and used silicone grease to help the rubber parts seal. There are companies that offer rebuilding services for your booster where you send them in rebuild and return the booster to you, rockauto.com offers that service
What symptoms were you having?
Hi Steve, brakes were working normally when I parked it due to a fuel pump failure. Then the brake pedal went to the floor when I needed to move it about a year later. I had bled it thoroughly when I was returning it to service about 3 years before. It has a solid pedal feel now. Thanks for watching and commenting!