Helpful video for Whirlpool gas dryer. My gas dryer would run, but there was no heat. after testing the thermostat, thermal cutoff switch, and thermal fuse I also removed the exhaust vent. the culprit in my case was lint blockage in the exhaust vent. Get a good cleanout wirebrush and use this first and then try your dryer before you go through the effort to test and debug and replace parts.
2022: Thanks again! Earlier I ran on a bit about my dryer's issues. Turns out it was the switch contacts in the timer. They are very intermittent. Great video and approaches to resolve.
I found instruction video awesome, easy to follow and had great detail to help both inexpensive and your typical DYI. Mine turned out to be the heating coil, even though the continuity bell good. Wife is Happy and I'm only had to spend 80 dollars and a few hours to remove all stuff and put back together. Also the unity in your demonstration was the exact same unit mine is 7years old. thanks again for your channel I did like and subscribed. Best of the New Year Ben.
Honestly the best video I’ve seen so far about this. And I’ve been watching a ton to figure out my dryer. Great explanation of how it works and what things do, along with telling us the meaning of the readings. Great job!
Thanks Ben just bought a new to me dryer it was working yesterday when I dried a small rug. Today we washed all our clothes and it wasn’t heating at all 😅saved me from purchasing a heating element vs what I actually needed
I replaced the heating element, dryer high-limit thermostat, dryer thermal cut-off, dryer thermostat, dryer thermal fuse. I checked the relay, I cleaned out the dryer vent by removing the cover and vacuuming up on my whirlpool dryer. It was finally working again heating up!!! I put the metal cover back on and pushed the dryer back to the wall and it stopped heating up now when I tried it again? Do you have any ideas sir what could be the problem? Can’t afford a new dryer. It also seems like it’s missing? Like it will stumble then it goes away? Everything else is working great just no heat.
Thanks for the video. I have an older whirlpool and my thermal fuse is 3389946 L 350 F What are the compatible fuses? I've been having difficulty finding that exact fuse.
Just found this video. I tested the ohms on my heating element and it read a 2.9 instead of closer to a 9-10 like you mentioned. Is that possibly a bad heating element?
Check for a nP error you could just have a partiallly bad breaker. Like me. All thermostats passed test so figured it was the board and got a new dryer for 800$+. When I saw the np error on the new dryer not working I checked the breaker. The ohms reading where basically 0 on one leg and bit higher on the other. With breaker out of panel. That’s the only indication you get. It still reads 240v. I replaced breaker and new dryer works. 850$ electric lesson.
I'm glad someone noticed, lol. I've put a bit into gear recently because I did get monetized. Figured I'd re invest to make videos better. I'm using a Sony ZV-E10 camera with a Sigma 18/50mm f2.8 lense. For lighting, I found this INSANE 15,000 lumen, 125w bulb that is for overhead lighting. Then I have 2 Anweer LCD lights that can mix colors. I am using a Joby gorillapod for the oddball shots and a standard tripod with boom for the wider shots. For audio which I'm still trying to figure out... I have a Rode NT-USB mic and for on person, I have a powerdewise lav mic, with a backup Rode Video micro for the shotgun which isn't as good as I was hoping. I may upgrade that in a few months
@@bensappliancesandjunk congrats on being monetized! I’ve been watching reviews on the ZV-E10, I think even I could make it work well. I love your videos, keep ‘em coming.
I installed a new thermal fuse, plugged it in, and without turning the dryer on, turned the timer counterclockwise. This caused the fuse to blow with visible sparks. Do I need to order a new thermostat or a new timer? Any help is appreciated!
Just installed a brand new Whirlpool natural gas dryer in my home and the burner comes on for only about a minute or so, then goes out. Through the peep hole I can see the ignitor glow for about 7 seconds then go out while the drum is turning. After about 40 seconds or so, the ignitor will glow again for about 7 seconds then die down. This cycle repeats over and over. This is a brand new dryer that was delivered to my house from Lowe's and it is doing this. This replaced the Kenmore dryer that was 1970's vintage that was still working when I received the new Whirlpool. I repaired that Kenmore myself over the years and kept it in good operating order. Now I regret having gotten rid of it for a brand new "made in China" piece of shit that doesn't work. For $920, I now own a clothes dryer that doesn't dry clothes. A service tech is scheduled to come check it out next week.
I have a Amana dryer similar to the one shown in the video. However, Im not getting continuity for F on my timer, I’m able to get it between X and T when I have my timer adjusted at certain times. Could that be the culprit? I’ve checked everything else and seems to be working fine
Hi Ben, I did all the tests shown in this video, and I didn't find anything wrong. I got 0 resistance in the two thermostats on the right. The one on the left that has the red and purple wires also works good and also the four-prong connector in the timer. Everything seems fine, but my drier is still blowing cold air. Is there anything beyond this tests that I could do?
Test for 220V at the heating element during operation. Be careful. If you see zero volts, you know your problem is before the heating element. If you see 220V, you know your problem is the heating element. I had to wiggle the wires on my heating element to find the break, I couldn't see it even with careful inspection.
My dryer would not heat. I removed the heating element and expected it to look burnt and broken, but it looked fine. I put the continuity tester on it and didn't get a clear reading. It didn't read continuity, but also didn't give a clear indication of lack thereof. The reading seemed to fluctuate. I tried testing it in sections by holding the meter lead just a few inches down from the start of the wire but that didn't work, I think the wire has a coating of grime and carbon on it that prevents contact. Not wanting to take a chance that I would replace the element and still not get heat, I was stymied for some days. My next steps were to test the 220V at the power block in the dryer, and then test for voltage at the heating element during operation, but I just had to assume it was the element but couldn't be sure. So, as per usual, what was hopefully an easy no-brainer job was going to be difficult. Today, after, like, two weeks of delay, I got back to it. Carefully inspecting every inch of wire on the heating element, I could see no problem. So then I gently wiggled the wire, working through each section and VOILA, found a break. Probably it was just there and not obvious with a visual inspection, or else it was barely welded together and when I wiggled it I broke it apart. YAY!!!!
Maybe I missed it but at what point, if any did you unplug the unit? Would be nice if the multi meters had similar functionality. Mine isn't even remotely like yours and neither are the readings.
I've tried everything, vents all clean with plenty of ventilation, replaced thermal switches and fuses, replaced heating element, but the thermal fuse on heating Element housing still keeps blowing, what else is left? Its either the dump or bypass the fuse, because except for the fuse blowing, it works perfectly. Oh, and it's old so it does not have a control board and timer works because I have power at thermal fuse..
Make sure element isn't grounded to can or the thermostat is fused open. The thermostat should close at around 250f. Another thing may be a motor contact is fused open, constantly sending heat as well
Clothes getting hot but not dry is always an air issue. The air is not circulating in the drum and then outside. You will have to trace down why it is not circulating. it could be a problem inside the unit like the blower is blocked where the filter has junk on it or something's wrong with the vent, but it's definitely gonna be an issue where air is not flowing outside properly.
Since we moved buildings, we haven't set up access to a propane outlet yet. But as soon as we can get one, that's a fantastic idea... ill see if I can do a video on how to convert as well as diagnosis of a dryer that's similar... or two. We just don't deal with a lot of gas or propane systems where we live.
How do you remove the top to replace spark module from a gas cooktop seal burner with no screws on the burner itself? Only the summer burner back left has a tiny screw on it. Sc8640edb4
Usually the whole top needs to be separated and that varies heavily by manufacturer.... Usually screws in the knobs where you adjust temps need taken out then top can be pivoted up
@@bensappliancesandjunk this one is weird. No screws on burner. Not a 1. I see the screws underneath knob. But can't lift up if burners are not separated. Idk
Thank you for your great teaching. However -- in the future, please check out the video before downloading it to your website☺☺and, PLEASE, PLEASE go back & replace this video with one that has loud enough volume for a senior to hear !!!
All videos are levelized to -4db. All of them. If you cannot hear it, please turn the volume up because if you are having an issue I assure you it's not the video itself.
I wish there was a way to find the contacts inside of the timer instead of the whole timer. I am running in to a TON of these Whirlpool built dryers with those awful Invensys timers in them that the contacts burn up and they won't make heat.
I've already submitted the schematics to factories to be able to build and sell me the timer pieces to just repair them instead of by the whole housing. I'm having trouble finding the right factory but at some point I will actually carry and sell those as a kit
@@bensappliancesandjunk you get those in stock ill order a pile! I ran into this issue 4 times today refurbishing dryers. Luckily my used parts stock looks alot like yours and I had used ones.
Please perform the most common fixes. No need for random fixes and info that aren't common. You'll prob increase views with common fixes and actually perform them.
I have 3 different videos on the element swap. The most recent video I did on my channel was for that specific dryer: th-cam.com/video/PotP3R0nmNU/w-d-xo.html
J Dub: It's not that cut and dried. The most common fixes are also the most obvious ones, and many people will already know how or can figure out how to troubleshoot and fix those. Also, most tutorials will focus on the most common fixes, making "yet another video on the obvious" less valuable in the ecospace. There is a real need for vidoes that focus on the less common and less obvious, as in "I've checked the 7 most common fixes and still no success, what else can i check?" Also known as the unlucky bug-a-boo that is the story of my life. I never ever ever get a problem that is covered by the 7 most common reasons. Believe me, if you get one of those, and I have one on my dryer right now, it gets old quickly watching video after video that all cover the same elementary ground.
Good grief. There are 2 screws to remove the element. You need a thermostat on the new element. I would buy a new thermostat but you can also reuse the old one.
Helpful video for Whirlpool gas dryer. My gas dryer would run, but there was no heat. after testing the thermostat, thermal cutoff switch, and thermal fuse I also removed the exhaust vent. the culprit in my case was lint blockage in the exhaust vent. Get a good cleanout wirebrush and use this first and then try your dryer before you go through the effort to test and debug and replace parts.
Out of several videos I watched about the issue, this is the best one! Thank you for all the explanations! 🙏🙏🙏
2022: Thanks again! Earlier I ran on a bit about my dryer's issues. Turns out it was the switch contacts in the timer. They are very intermittent. Great video and approaches to resolve.
I found instruction video awesome, easy to follow and had great detail to help both inexpensive and your typical DYI. Mine turned out to be the heating coil, even though the continuity bell good. Wife is Happy and I'm only had to spend 80 dollars and a few hours to remove all stuff and put back together. Also the unity in your demonstration was the exact same unit mine is 7years old.
thanks again for your channel I did like and subscribed. Best of the New Year Ben.
Great walk-through. I bought a kit from Amazon ($30) and fixed my dryer in about an hour!
This was great it walked me step by step through the process. I was able to buy the parts and replace them for about $80.00
thanks ben for sharing trouble shooting on the dry this will help me be more productive on doing repairs
Maaaaaan the way you walked me through this 🙌🏿. Subscribed. Now I know it’s my high temperature thermostat. Thank you!
Honestly the best video I’ve seen so far about this. And I’ve been watching a ton to figure out my dryer. Great explanation of how it works and what things do, along with telling us the meaning of the readings. Great job!
Best most detailed and thorough video I've found yet. YOU DA MAN!
Thanks!
Thanks Ben just bought a new to me dryer it was working yesterday when I dried a small rug. Today we washed all our clothes and it wasn’t heating at all 😅saved me from purchasing a heating element vs what I actually needed
Thanks. This advice helped me find that the heater coil had a break after detecting a continuity test failure.
The best video on dryer service.
Thank you
Great video Ben. I’ve been repairing appliances for a while now and always learn something from you
I replaced the heating element, dryer high-limit thermostat, dryer thermal cut-off, dryer thermostat, dryer thermal fuse. I checked the relay, I cleaned out the dryer vent by removing the cover and vacuuming up on my whirlpool dryer.
It was finally working again heating up!!! I put the metal cover back on and pushed the dryer back to the wall and it stopped heating up now when I tried it again?
Do you have any ideas sir what could be the problem? Can’t afford a new dryer. It also seems like it’s missing? Like it will stumble then it goes away? Everything else is working great just no heat.
Thanks for all the tips. It really did help me find my problem.
This is the most helpful video I’ve ever seen 💯
Very good directions. Thank you
Thanks for the video.
I have an older whirlpool and my thermal fuse is 3389946 L 350 F
What are the compatible fuses?
I've been having difficulty finding that exact fuse.
Great Talking with you- awesome vid
Just found this video. I tested the ohms on my heating element and it read a 2.9 instead of closer to a 9-10 like you mentioned. Is that possibly a bad heating element?
Check for a nP error you could just have a partiallly bad breaker. Like me. All thermostats passed test so figured it was the board and got a new dryer for 800$+. When I saw the np error on the new dryer not working I checked the breaker. The ohms reading where basically 0 on one leg and bit higher on the other. With breaker out of panel. That’s the only indication you get. It still reads 240v.
I replaced breaker and new dryer works. 850$ electric lesson.
Thank you , I really appreciate the time and experience you share , helpful to fix my problem!!
Glad to help!
Thanks!
Nice!
So helpful, thank you.
Should the dryer be unplugged first? Thanks
The quality of your videos has improved greatly! Care to share what video gear you are using? Great work my friend.
I'm glad someone noticed, lol. I've put a bit into gear recently because I did get monetized. Figured I'd re invest to make videos better.
I'm using a Sony ZV-E10 camera with a Sigma 18/50mm f2.8 lense.
For lighting, I found this INSANE 15,000 lumen, 125w bulb that is for overhead lighting. Then I have 2 Anweer LCD lights that can mix colors. I am using a Joby gorillapod for the oddball shots and a standard tripod with boom for the wider shots.
For audio which I'm still trying to figure out... I have a Rode NT-USB mic and for on person, I have a powerdewise lav mic, with a backup Rode Video micro for the shotgun which isn't as good as I was hoping. I may upgrade that in a few months
@@bensappliancesandjunk congrats on being monetized! I’ve been watching reviews on the ZV-E10, I think even I could make it work well. I love your videos, keep ‘em coming.
I installed a new thermal fuse, plugged it in, and without turning the dryer on, turned the timer counterclockwise. This caused the fuse to blow with visible sparks. Do I need to order a new thermostat or a new timer? Any help is appreciated!
U said clockwise when going counter clockwise will possibly damage the dryer timer??
It can goof up cogs yes
SUBSCRIBED!!!! THANKS!!!
for the middle wire in the terminal block supposed to be grounded?
Could there be a problem with the resistor installed on the chip on the left (temperature control)?
Just installed a brand new Whirlpool natural gas dryer in my home and the burner comes on for only about a minute or so, then goes out. Through the peep hole I can see the ignitor glow for about 7 seconds then go out while the drum is turning. After about 40 seconds or so, the ignitor will glow again for about 7 seconds then die down. This cycle repeats over and over. This is a brand new dryer that was delivered to my house from Lowe's and it is doing this. This replaced the Kenmore dryer that was 1970's vintage that was still working when I received the new Whirlpool. I repaired that Kenmore myself over the years and kept it in good operating order. Now I regret having gotten rid of it for a brand new "made in China" piece of shit that doesn't work. For $920, I now own a clothes dryer that doesn't dry clothes. A service tech is scheduled to come check it out next week.
Check the vent hose for kinks, binds, lint, and where the lint leaves the house. It could be starved for air
Good ole China shit 😂😂
I have a Amana dryer similar to the one shown in the video. However, Im not getting continuity for F on my timer, I’m able to get it between X and T when I have my timer adjusted at certain times. Could that be the culprit? I’ve checked everything else and seems to be working fine
Are the purple prongs supposed to beep close to 0? The red wire prongs did beep but not the purple ones.
Hi Ben, I did all the tests shown in this video, and I didn't find anything wrong. I got 0 resistance in the two thermostats on the right. The one on the left that has the red and purple wires also works good and also the four-prong connector in the timer. Everything seems fine, but my drier is still blowing cold air. Is there anything beyond this tests that I could do?
Check voltage and verify 240v at the terminal block. After that, check the timer contacts between A and C on high heat
Test for 220V at the heating element during operation. Be careful. If you see zero volts, you know your problem is before the heating element. If you see 220V, you know your problem is the heating element. I had to wiggle the wires on my heating element to find the break, I couldn't see it even with careful inspection.
@TheLarryBrown I did this and I'm not getting voltage to the element but 240 is coming into the terminal block
@@bensappliancesandjunk So basically what you’re saying, is to follow what your video says 😅
My dryer would not heat. I removed the heating element and expected it to look burnt and broken, but it looked fine. I put the continuity tester on it and didn't get a clear reading. It didn't read continuity, but also didn't give a clear indication of lack thereof. The reading seemed to fluctuate. I tried testing it in sections by holding the meter lead just a few inches down from the start of the wire but that didn't work, I think the wire has a coating of grime and carbon on it that prevents contact. Not wanting to take a chance that I would replace the element and still not get heat, I was stymied for some days. My next steps were to test the 220V at the power block in the dryer, and then test for voltage at the heating element during operation, but I just had to assume it was the element but couldn't be sure. So, as per usual, what was hopefully an easy no-brainer job was going to be difficult. Today, after, like, two weeks of delay, I got back to it. Carefully inspecting every inch of wire on the heating element, I could see no problem. So then I gently wiggled the wire, working through each section and VOILA, found a break. Probably it was just there and not obvious with a visual inspection, or else it was barely welded together and when I wiggled it I broke it apart. YAY!!!!
Way to go!
Maybe I missed it but at what point, if any did you unplug the unit? Would be nice if the multi meters had similar functionality. Mine isn't even remotely like yours and neither are the readings.
I've tried everything, vents all clean with plenty of ventilation, replaced thermal switches and fuses, replaced heating element, but the thermal fuse on heating Element housing still keeps blowing, what else is left? Its either the dump or bypass the fuse, because except for the fuse blowing, it works perfectly. Oh, and it's old so it does not have a control board and timer works because I have power at thermal fuse..
Make sure element isn't grounded to can or the thermostat is fused open. The thermostat should close at around 250f.
Another thing may be a motor contact is fused open, constantly sending heat as well
Hello Ben, I replaced the heating coil and the clothes are still not dry, just getting hot but not dry. Vent is clean dryer not over loaded. Help
Clothes getting hot but not dry is always an air issue. The air is not circulating in the drum and then outside. You will have to trace down why it is not circulating. it could be a problem inside the unit like the blower is blocked where the filter has junk on it or something's wrong with the vent, but it's definitely gonna be an issue where air is not flowing outside properly.
Can you do some Gas Dryers in future videos.👍
Since we moved buildings, we haven't set up access to a propane outlet yet. But as soon as we can get one, that's a fantastic idea... ill see if I can do a video on how to convert as well as diagnosis of a dryer that's similar... or two. We just don't deal with a lot of gas or propane systems where we live.
This helped I found that my power cord was damaged
How do you remove the top to replace spark module from a gas cooktop seal burner with no screws on the burner itself? Only the summer burner back left has a tiny screw on it. Sc8640edb4
Usually the whole top needs to be separated and that varies heavily by manufacturer.... Usually screws in the knobs where you adjust temps need taken out then top can be pivoted up
@@bensappliancesandjunk this one is weird. No screws on burner. Not a 1. I see the screws underneath knob. But can't lift up if burners are not separated. Idk
Thank you for your great teaching. However -- in the future, please check out the video before downloading it to your website☺☺and, PLEASE, PLEASE go back & replace this video with one that has loud enough volume for a senior to hear !!!
All videos are levelized to -4db. All of them. If you cannot hear it, please turn the volume up because if you are having an issue I assure you it's not the video itself.
When you check it dryer has electrical on it or no.
Generally leave it unplugged unless testing electric at back Of unit
*You can but it’s dangerous if your not careful. It’s safer without power and test continuity and ohms*
the door safety switch is common failure
Next video has that in it
I wish there was a way to find the contacts inside of the timer instead of the whole timer. I am running in to a TON of these Whirlpool built dryers with those awful Invensys timers in them that the contacts burn up and they won't make heat.
I've already submitted the schematics to factories to be able to build and sell me the timer pieces to just repair them instead of by the whole housing. I'm having trouble finding the right factory but at some point I will actually carry and sell those as a kit
@@bensappliancesandjunk you get those in stock ill order a pile! I ran into this issue 4 times today refurbishing dryers. Luckily my used parts stock looks alot like yours and I had used ones.
Your background music is too loud and annoying making your voice inaudible…no need for music
Please perform the most common fixes. No need for random fixes and info that aren't common. You'll prob increase views with common fixes and actually perform them.
I need the element changed and yet it was briefly talked about but not done.
I have 3 different videos on the element swap. The most recent video I did on my channel was for that specific dryer:
th-cam.com/video/PotP3R0nmNU/w-d-xo.html
J Dub: It's not that cut and dried. The most common fixes are also the most obvious ones, and many people will already know how or can figure out how to troubleshoot and fix those. Also, most tutorials will focus on the most common fixes, making "yet another video on the obvious" less valuable in the ecospace. There is a real need for vidoes that focus on the less common and less obvious, as in "I've checked the 7 most common fixes and still no success, what else can i check?" Also known as the unlucky bug-a-boo that is the story of my life. I never ever ever get a problem that is covered by the 7 most common reasons. Believe me, if you get one of those, and I have one on my dryer right now, it gets old quickly watching video after video that all cover the same elementary ground.
Huge need for these “random fixes” that aren’t random at all.
Good grief. There are 2 screws to remove the element. You need a thermostat on the new element. I would buy a new thermostat but you can also reuse the old one.