Yeah, cheaper parts and cutting corners usually isn't good for a firebox plugged into the wall. I'm surprised this wasn't mentioned. Like most things, don't buy the most expensive or the cheapest.
Can you please remind me what your pfp is from? I knew at one point but have forgotten so I’m out of the loop. There’s gotta be thousands upon thousands of folks who use it so I was curious. Thanks
Many moons ago I worked at IBM. They had a rule against space heaters. But they had a lot of obsolete computers stored. So if you were cold, you just went and got a computer or two, stuck them under your desk, and turned them on. They were only maybe 500 watts each, but it would warm up the space under your desk.
If they were idling, they were likely only outputting < 200w each. My 10+ year old six core gaming PC doesn't even use 500w at full load. My 10+ year old 42" Sony Bravia LCD uses about 250w! I actually use it to heat my room in the winter...I put a fireplace screen saver on my old PS3 which adds another 150w or thereabouts. Even my 18w aquarium light changes the temp of my small room by a degree or so.
I never did that trick myself, so I don't know if the people who did arranged a load on the machines, but it was around 1995, so maybe they were bigger power hogs back then.
Makes perfect sense that the smaller heater is meant for a small room, even if it's higher power, because if your room is really small, the medium heater won't fit inside it.
This is typical downtalk to the nontechnical "peasants". If you try to advertise that your equipment is efficient, you don't say "uses less than 60W", you say "uses less power then a 60W lightbulb". Another one you will hear is "spins faster then an airplane propeller" (for an ad such as a garden mulcher or "awesome" food processor). But most propellers are large in diameter, and spin rather slowly as far as RPM's are concerned (2000). So the claim is "true" in a sense, but meaningless.
Brian Park most consumers aren't going to do their research if the box says it's more efficient or better than they'll probably just go with it and assume it's true you'd be surprised how many electronics have "4K" or "Gaming" arbitrarily slapped on the label what's the difference between a "gaming" desk and a normal one well you tell me they look exactly the same....its literally just a normal desk
I recently installed a 97% efficient gas furnace in my house and when I heard that the price of natural gas was going to go up by a lot in December I also installed a set back timed thermostat to turn it down at night. I kept the thermostat set fairly low both day and night trying to keep the bill down. What I didn't know is that two of my roommates had electric heaters going all day and night in their rooms...at the end of the month I got the energy bill and it was insanely higher than it had ever been before. I know that electricity is the most expensive way to heat anything. At the beginning of January we had a meeting and we agreed that I would turn up the furnace thermostat to a much warmer comfortable temperature if they would unplug their electric heaters and stop using them altogether. I just got my energy bill (gas and electricity combined) for January and the bill was exactly HALF as much as December's bill. I knew that it would probably be lower but I never expected it to be THAT much lower. Lesson learned.
@@rangyixiong Not much of the country is so close to a hydro plant that electricity is cheaper than Gas for heat. I live in the Colorado mountains at over 9,000 feet. Around here gas fired forced hot air supplemented with a good wood stove on the real cold nights is the way to go. We are not even into December and last night's low was 13 below zero F .That is -25 celsius
The 97% AFUE is in reference to how much CO2 is released into the air, or gas efficiency. That probably depends on what condenser you have as well. The higher the seer rating, the more energy efficient.
An important word on space heaters: STOP PLUGGING THEM INTO POWER STRIPS! If you can’t plug it directly into an outlet, get a quality extension cord, the shortest you can get to do the job. As an IT professional, I can’t tell you how many melted down, turning brown or black power strips I have found over the years with space heaters plugged into them. In addition, how many glitchy computer problems I have solved by removing the space heater from the same strip the computer is plugged into.
Agreed and one of the many reasons I am glad I don't really have to deal with users in an IT setting anymore. In my IT management days I was reported to my managers on a regular basis because I was being mean. Which, in my case being mean meant that I had asked a idiot users not to plug a heater or Christmas tree lights into the same power strip as their computer was plugged into. I would explain to users till I was blue in the face about how these things would cause surges which could cause issues with computers. But to no avail cause I would come in daily anything from crazy acting systems to a call center room with a smell of smoke from something that burned out. Which, in one case -- an idiot user actually stayed at a workstation while it was smoking. SMH.
You just have to love how intelligent people are. I've seen a presentation room that includes a power strip plugged into another strip plugged into an extension cord. I always unplug the two redundant strips and use the extension cord directly and wonder at who is foolish enough to use the original setup (and keeps restoring it.)
@@nameless-sn3tj I know, right? "My computer keeps crashing" Ask them to explain the crash: "I'll be doing something and it just shuts off all the sudden, and I don't get it because I have a UPS" Do some quick desk diving to find that the UPS is plugged into a surge strip, and that they have a surge strip hanging off the UPS. I try to explain how they confuse each other, but they don't get it. Just tell them to trust me and I get rid of the power strips and plug the computer and monitor directly into the UPS and the UPS directly into the wall, and they have no further problems.
I got me an off-brand, $10 1500w small space heater from wish that still gets crazy hot & quietly too after almost 2 years....outlasting the more expensive, $110 1500w Lasko branded big room heater that has only been used twice! Lesson learned here.
I used to run 3@ P4 systems of Distributed Computing programs (BOINC) in the winter, to keep my office warm. (a P4 system added 100W consumption when running at 100% when compared to idle)
I remember the old gas space heaters. My great grandmother had one with five or six fire bricks that on one surface had a "forest" of tiny evenly spaced cone shaped projections. The heater was across from the foot of a bed. Those projections at the bottom closest to the flame when hot would glow a shimmering pumpkin orange color. I remember on cold, quite winter nights staring into the fire box watching the cones change different shades or orange up and down the column of little cones, rarely reaching the top rows of cones. The "hissing" sound of the gas coming out of the gas jets, occasionally a "spark" would come flying out of the flames (i always imagined it was a bug of some kind that had gotten to close to the flame). Sometimes in the background a cold wind could be heard be whistling though the poorly fitting windows. Hypnotized by this I would eventually fall asleep and awaken to the smell of bacon, fresh biscuits and "breakfast is ready".
why did i watch this i live in a desert disclaimer because i *still* get replies about this: no i dont live in every desert on the planet, and i am now very aware that deserts can be cold. thank you
Israel too?:) We need 'em more than cold country citizens BC warm country building standards allow me to die from +12 rainy night... Why did I left Ukraine?🤓
some deserts get snow i'm in northern az but still south of flag and we get snow. it'll get up to 80 again the next damn day but we get snow and then it'll be like 26 at night. so we have heaters in our bedrooms and i run the house heat or else everyone's basically unable to move in the morning lol. a lot of the houses have tile floors and the window insulation isn't the best so it makes everything unreasonably drafty. i felt a lot more insulated in colorado because they actually build like they know it snows there, i think our houses up here could do better :P
@@kelakakku half the time they're literally labelled in chinese, he's not being racist he's pointing out that the vast majority of those with bogus claims come from china as there's no law to stop them from BSing it in their own country then selling it to gullible americans.
@@alexphillips4325 People, please read the box or package. I want to know details, such as what type of battery does this device use. If it is not indicated or it is a non-standard battery, something other than AA or AAA or a standard 9-volt battery, then that tells me I probably should not buy it. It is poorly designed, it is probably junk. Well at least some claims are obviously BS to people who actually know something about how that stuff works, and that is another reason not to buy it. They do not deserve the sale if they can not manage to represent their product honestly. Obviously no mere electric heater can possibly produce 150% efficiency, unless it is using some radical new technology such as the NWO-suppressed free-energy technology, and if so, why in the world would they not boast about that also? Americans should not be so gullible.
As a person that's lived in very cold climates in motorhomes and trailers I've tried everything. For electric heaters the radiator style oil heaters definitely work better for keeping an area at a constant temp.. but none of them compare to a good woodstove.
The image that comes to mind is a car traveling at a moderate high speed on the highway to conserve energy as opposed to one that has to stop repeatedly, then burn more fuel to get where it's going. That's why highway fuel economy ratings are always better. "Slow and steady wins the race." It's fizzicks!
I am an HVAC guy for last 30 years and really enjoyed the video from the point of view how to educate customers. Very nice narration. I do not know if you did any video on explaining that if coming to a cold house, turning thermostat way high will NOT heat the house any faster. It just makes you having to go back and turning it to comfortable level some time later. I deal with that all the time. Also, about ventilation - opening the window just a crack will not really ventilate, it is just a heat loss spot with little of actual air exchange happening. And that goes for both heating or cooling season.
I install commercial automation systems and I cannot tell you how many times I've had to explain to people that just because they want to set the thermostat lower than corporate chosen 72 degrees that it won't cool the building faster lol
while this true, for some that have it located on the opposite side of the room they are in, the higher setting can allow the heat that does come out to not cool down as much as it hits them, so THEY will feel a tad warmer.
@@NickCranford Part of the problem is that people are not educated, and they don't know that a thermostat is simply on or off, at least that is the way that it used to be, but now some systems are getting variable power output levels now. They have well pumps that can run at a rate to match the demand for water so that the pressure does not cycle from low to high to low to high as in the old days. Constant city water pressure at the cheaper price of well water. Some air conditioning systems now are variable also, for greater efficiency. The other issue, is stupid thermostats that fail to indicate whether they are actually at the moment generating a call for heat or for cooling. There should be an indicator to show this, which would make it easier to adjust the thermostat properly. Gee, how are people supposed to figure out how things work, when the displays are designed by idiots with no reasonable diagnostics being shown?
@@Bubu567 An older-style thermostat could have a LED that lights up when a call for heat or a call for cooling is indicated. Now that thermostats are computers and have complicated liquid crystal displays, there ought to be a indicator, a triangle or the word "cool" or "heat" that appears, when it actually is generating a call for heat or a call for cooling. This is a clue to the dummies that adjust the thermostat too high or too low, that what they want is already being called for. Also a diagnostic towards repair, that if there is a call for heat, and no heating is occurring after a few minutes at most, check your heating unit, because the problem doesn't appear to be with the thermostat. Since I understand how a lot of things work, I tend to trust thermostats to make the decision. If I am cold or hot, I will nudge the thermostat up or down little by little, and usually, at the point at which it generates a call for heat or cooling, I stop. And then when it is set just right, I tend to pretty much leave it alone. But I am getting really sick and tired of stupid computers and the idiot lights on dashboards, that do not bother to tell us much of anything about what is wrong. Many electrical components have a LED or something that lights up, to indicate that at least the device is powered up. On some TVs, the power LED might flash or go off momentarily, when it is receiving a signal from the remote control. That is a diagnostic, that at least it is receiving something. Somewhere, I heard of there being some special type of paper, that if you aim a TV remote at it, it will convert the invisible infrared pulses or flashes so that they can be seen within the normal visual spectrum of light. Of course I have never heard of a TV coming with a piece this special diagnostic paper. And as complicated and computerized as TVs are now, if I could design the TV's software the way that I would like to, somewhere buried deep within its menus, I would have a diagnostic screen in which you could aim any standard infrared remote at the TV, even one not set for that TV, and it would display the actual remote digital number codes that its infrared sensor is reading and the signal strength. Consider somebody building some experiment or custom project circuit. Well it needs switches or a keyboard or something to turn it on or set its modes, right? Depending on what it is, a old TV remote might be perfect, perhaps it went to an old TV that died and was thrown away. You could put some batteries in the remote, press each button, and write down a table of all the digital number codes. Then you could program those codes into your control circuitry and redefine the codes for controlling its own functions. So what would this be useful for? Oh who knows? Maybe a remote-controlled fan. You could build your speed-control module and attach it to the fan or plug the fan into it, and decide which buttons on your old TV remote would correspond to Very Low, Low, Medium, High, an off timer, etc. Or you could build a high-current-rating air conditioner control module to plug your window air conditioner into. It could be a programmable thermostat or something. But then it would need a digital readout display. Your project circuit wouldn't have to have any buttons on it, if you use an old TV remote as its input. Let's say that you need numerical input. Well the channel number buttons on the TV remote, ought to be perfect for that.
I have two oil-filled radiator heaters, one a fancy Delinghi and the other a Wally World special that cost less than half the other. Guess which one started dripping oil after its first winter?
When I was looking into buying a space heater for my work office, I noticed that the different types of heaters kind of had explanations for how quickly they could heat a room. They didn't talk about "efficiency." I ended up getting a "mid-grade" ceramic heater, and it does heat up faster than the old coil space heater I already owned for my bedroom. That cheap $10 one probably works and may even be a fast heater, but it's made from the cheapest materials, it's connections inside are probably shoddy, so the thing will probably break down, overheat, the dial on the "thermostat" break off, etc. within a few years. I honestly don't feel safe keeping a space heater on all the time and letting it turn itself on and off based on whatever setting I gave it. If I don't hear or feel it on, I might forget it's on, and leave without turning it off, so I just turn it on to full blast until I get a little too warm, then completely turn it off. It's usually a while before I feel the need to turn it on again.
@@MeyaRoseGirl Well I agree that this video ONLY talks about heating capacity and efficiency. But not about durability of the heater. Buying a more expensive one can be justified if it last twice as long.
Fun story. I my wife and I have different approaches to buying things. I like to rigorously read consumer and professional reviews and by the best value option. My wife goes to Best Buy and picks up the first (or cutest) one she sees. So when we decided we needed a space heater for our office I got to reading. She on the other hand could not wait and went to the store and bought a $15 heater. My fancier hundred dollar heater came in a few days later. What we found was that her $15 heater heated the room much quicker than mine. We pretty much always use hers now.
Let me guess the wife's one is forced air cooled and loud, based around a small dense PTC "ceramic" heating element. It just pulls 1500W continuously on the 110V line... Your premium one is silent, wire wound? Maybe tower style with a slow big fan that swivels the air slow? Then the premium one only pulls 1500w on start and goes down with heat immediately...
@@kitecattestecke2303 the small one will work harder than the big one, it will break sooner and more likely dangerous. The big one maybe will warm the room equally But in the same room both of them will take the same power to work, the big one can't magically put more power from the thin air
Watching this while crossing Transylvania in a train with a broken heating system during autumn, thank you for helping me imagine what warmth feels like
Yeah bu the duty cycle rating isn't continuous, that's why it's meant for smaller rooms. If you put it in a bigger room, it has to run longer and that little fan will fail sooner than a bigger one.
THANK YOU, mechanical engineer here and have tried to explain this to people. My poor sister fell for the "efficient Amish" heater..I have the $8.88 ones
The Amish heaters are way more aesthetically pleasing than the $8.88 Walmart one you have. It’s not “falling for” anything. It’s paying for the way something looks.
The heater itself requires space in the room. Once its cooled to the ambient temperature of the room it requires energy to heat the heater as well. So therefore its likely equally as efficient. #BigBrain
@@musicwiz40 there's still a reason why they make bigger heaters and not just everything as a "small room" fan heater. I'm guessing it's because the fan heaters overheat quickly, which makes them constantly turn on and off, which is unsuitable for larger rooms because it takes longer overall. They're probably designed to run for shorter times. If they're run in a big room, they'd have to run pretty much constantly It could also be that shifting air currents in a big room will constantly turn them on and off, which is not suitable. Also, the safety aspect of it. They can lead to fires more easily than radiator heaters. That risk is majorly increased if they are unattended and run 24/7 with no breaks.
@@marioluigi9599 I agree with this logic. The larger sirface area of radiation disperses the heat more effectively as there is more contact area also the larger mass of metal holds onto heat for longer therefore releasing heat even whilst the resistive element is off.
@@musicwiz40 if we assume that small heaters turn off because the device itself overheated then sure. But that claim needs some evidence. I’d argue that’s a design flow though if it is the case for some heaters. And if it’s just a thermostat location issue, the cool device he showed at the end to just only send power to the heater based on an external thermostat would solve that problem
@@huckthatdish your comment in no way relates to what I'm saying. Totally out in left field. I'm having trouble trying to make sense of what you've just said and how in any way that relates to what I've just said?
We bought a space heater at a local store in Australia. The 2nd time we turned it on it went bang, lots of smoke and it tripped the fuse box. Took it back to the store and they said they had an exchange only policy so we got a new one. This one lasted three days before it blew up and shut down the fuse box. We took it back as well and finally, after a LOT of arguing, got our money back and went elsewhere. It's not just how much heat they give out, it's how safe they are.
I admire that you stuck with it and got them to relent in the end. When they tried to push back I would have wanted to ask them to put it in writing that if I took another one home and it damaged either my fuse box or caught my house on fire they agree to pay for all damages and any loss of life. 🤷♀
😮 wow! Isn't there anything like in the USA we have the UL If it's listed as UL certified (most electronic things are) they will back the item up as safe. We had a satellite box smoke..we guess tiny fire inside. They sent us a postage pass box to ship ot to them. They wanted to investigate. Once the company who's brand nane is on the product, also wanted it, plus offered upgraded box on return. This was early days of the internet. It was nice or even going to go to a store. Lol, but that thing had scared me!! Like, what if I hadn't been home and smelled it? Brand new house too!!
@@nailsofinterestThat is very interesting! I didn't know that Underwriters Laboratories would do that. Do you have any other details of how the UL scenario worked out for you?
I live in Queensland Australia, it's summer at the moment and much of the state is literally on fire and here I am watching and enjoying a video informing me about space heaters, if that isn't high praise for your videos I don't know what is.
Blake Pitcher I was surprised how beautiful Brisbane actually was. I’m from Sydney, but went there for a holiday recently, and absolutely loved it. Would definitely visit again.
@@aarongreenfield9038 I'm going to make a space heater that will make you lose weight. Just shed that fat right off you. And you can have it for only a low low price of three payments of 99.99 shipping not included
Forget the server for me. My PC with the door closed just watching these videos do a very effective job. I get the waste heat from both my TV and my PC tower and I can comfortably heat the room to a balmy 25 C and even higher if I decide to do a gaming session. Yay I love double duty items. Also though it takes a little longer with the efficiency of computer components now compared to when I was back in university (2006-2010) and watching videos all night with my AMD Athlon 64 computer.
In Australia, with 240v available in the house, we see 2,000w space heaters sold as medium sized room heater. Smaller room heaters may be rated at higher wattage, however their electrical design usually does not allow longer running at full capacity. Fast initial heating followed by thermostat limited heating.
@@samhilton4173 You know that there are Skiing regions even in Australia? (I.e. Thredbo). Even in Sydney, Winter nights could go down to 5°C and with the houses having almost no to little insulation (and single glazing windows) you DO have some use of these as well (unless you have a reverse cycle Air-con, however some of them would not work well when it would get colder. I remember 1 night where it was actually freezing when I was in Sydney :-)
@@samhilton4173 my dude, unless you're in North QLD or Darwin, even the major cities drop below 0°C in the peak of winter 😂 I still wear shorts year-round in Sydney, though, but absolutely not in Canberra/Melbourne or Adelaide. Let's not even talk about Tasmania.
I used to work at a hardware store that sold a wide selection of space heaters. People would ask me to make a recommendation, and I'd always tell them to get an oil-filled heater and a cheap box fan. Steady, quiet heat evenly dispersed throughout the space. And then when summer rolls around, Hey! - You've already got a box fan!
I've tried and tried to explain to my mother that they are all basically the same. Like talking to a wall. Everyone seems to fall for the advertising gimmicks.
It seems, that people are only willing to learn when they desire to learn something. Using my self as a example (A poor one, I know) but I have often been described as a brick wall when someone is trying to teach me something. On the flipped side, I *LOVE* watching 'educational' content (Often poorly researched and explained, but not always) and talking to people to learn information. It is an interesting dichotomy. It makes me wonder; is there is a method to encourage someone or people as a whole, to be willing to learn with a greater intensity, or have the desire more often?
@@HowardDPVT This is why I'm a firm believer in teaching how to self-teach above anything else. If you learn how to self-teach, you will learn forever. Schools will NEVER do this because it goes against their whole existence. If everyone could self-teach, people would become extra aware of how bullshit formal education often unfortunately is. School also hyper-focuses on teaching you impractical BS. As an analogy, they'd teach you everything about a wrench EXCEPT how to use it. *_Waste. Of. Time._*
I had a hell of a time convincing my fiancee that 1500W is 1500W, it doesn't matter if we buy the jumbo ultra fuck you big or the one that's the size of my shoe. The only difference is the size of the fan in it.
People are stupid. And that is what advertising relies on. If more then 5-10% of actual smart people were around, we wouldn't get BLASTED with dumbfck comercials, because they'd instantly knew what is going on and the farytales were useless !
@@ceruleanc505 that's actually a good thing, can the energy source from your furnace converted to only light, or only movement? Electricity is volatile, timewise hard to store and can replace all the other energy's easy... Fuel does not
My boss regifted me a Handy Heater. I didn't even try it out, last winter. I figured it was just a waste of time. I saw it, in my closet last week and decided to see what it could do. I was totally amazed. It's rated at only 400 watts. It fits, in the palm of your hand. It plugs directly into a wall outlet. It kept a drafty 14' x 20' room warm, (when it was 30°F outside). So much so, that it reached the pre-set 72°F, I had set it at, and turned itself off. I checked the wires, behind the outlet and they weren't even warm.
Must be made of 400 watts of pure unicorn magic lol. I have a 14x20 ish room and it takes a 2k watt 220v heater to keep it above 70F if its below 40F outside. When it drops down to the teens outside i have to crank it up to the 4k watt setting. Those dinky little pathetic heaters in the video you cant even tell they on if used. They aint even fit for a bathroom. Oil heaters are the worst junk ive ever used. The room the 220v heater is in isnt even drafty....not insulated the best most likely but not drafty at all.
Actually, after Crysis required too much from PCs, and only so many people could play those; the next two games were made increasingly softer for the machines they were released for. In other words, they were released for machines made around the time the game came out, but not high end ones per say. You know, to sell more games.
Used my PC for crypto mining and supplement heating around the time of the massive spike crypto had. Even on -20f days my room was a comfortable 64 degrees (I live in a colder climate, 64 is pretty cozy). There were times when it was in the 30s where I actually had to open my windows to keep my room from being too hot. Funnily enough, during the crypto craze there were actually tiny houses for sale in the Netherlands heated solely by cryptominers. It was actually a fairly brilliant idea.
The fact that you personally put these informational topics together for teaching the laymen PLUS editing and extra learning along with it is just incredible to me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I bought a space heater that had this safety feature. It would quit working if tipped over. Great, but the heater quit working after just a few months. So I took it apart to see what was wrong. That safety feature was a very simple relay that was normally on. Tipping it over would turn off the relay. The entire power of the heater went through this relay; which I consider a design flaw. The relay was so cheap and chintzy that regular use of the heater melted the relay down. Once I engineered my own relay - much beefier than the original, it worked again. That was 15 years ago and it's still in use every winter. But because the manufacturer used a 50 cent part instead of a $1.50 part, the heater went from 15 year life cycle, to less than 4 months. Next, I think you should go shopping for vacuums and explain to the world why vacs rated in amps is meaningless.
Engineered your own relay? That would thousands if done properly. I would just look at the specs of the old and buy an off the shelf better quality relay..(end sarcasm)💩
@@broderp It's cheaper to use 24Ga steel and a copper slug to replace the existing relay arms. All parts scrounged from my garage and given from a local metal fab shop. Cost to me: $0. Now go and try to spec a proprietary relay and buy your off the shelf replacement for $0 and let me know how that works out for ya.
It's a design decision to reduce liability and risk of litigation. If the relay fails and it tips over, it's better to let the heat melt it and cut off power. If the relay doesn't melt, then it might start a fire and burn the house down. It's a choice between having a product that fails prematurely and losing a few customers, or getting sued for millions because somebody died.
1:51 I purchased an infrared quartz space heater in 2015. I had two elements like this one as shown in the video. The switch had single or double use. And he did the room with only having one of the elements energized. About three years ago the element that got most of the use slowly faded and stopped working. Happy I was to say that I could still use the second Setting and get a few more years from the element which was rarely used. This is the seventh winter I’ve loved having my space heater.
Google peltierelement. You can get more heat energy per eletrical energy. It doesnt break the second law. But you can use the eletrical energy to move heat from a to b and thx to the second law all the work will end in heat. In some circumstances you can get 1,8 watt heat energy per 1 watt eletric energy
It's one reason why anything labeled "eco ____" gets put at the bottom of my list of things to buy: it's typically marketing over physics, arrived at by tinkering with evaluation metrics or... just flat out lying. And also, they tend to not last as long.
@@flinch622 For things like computer monitors, there's the "energy star" sticker on them. They usually refer to features that turn themselves off automatically if they haven't gotten used in a little while.
I literally read this comment at 4 pm. So now I'm confused. I think I'll watch it again when I'm sitting at my desk at work at 4am tomorrow to keep me awake lol.
The only thing I can think of is the smaller heaters are less suited to continuous duty. Although I have never had trouble with small fan heaters the elements do run hotter than large convection heaters of the same power rating. Imagine heating your room with a hair dryer. Same power but loud because the fan has to spin very fast to keep the small element cool. And it probably won't last as long. Similar to "not for commercial use" appliances. My toaster would probably complain doing 100 slices of bread in a row and I'd have to give it a "cooling break". I'd have to buy two and let the other one sit if I was doing big hotel breakfasts with it.
I've known these laws of thermodynamics for 45 yrs. I'm a retired journeyman who has done H.V.A.C . For 42 yrs as I went to school for HVAC . I'm so glad you took the effort and time to explain these physics ! I know I should have but only explained these concepts to all my friends . I laugh Everytime a commercial comes on saying a new invention has been created .Heat does not go away it just goes from a higher to a lower condition but is always in existence ! Again ,thank you for teaching these concepts to the public .
Maybe you can help me with this thought I had. Imagine you have two identical vehicles that weigh the same, and accelerate from 0-60 in the same time, however, one uses a small turbocharged engine and the other uses a big V8. Would they burn the same amount of fuel during that moment of acceleration?
@@mhess427 That is dependent on the engine efficiency. The net work done during acceleration is the same for both cars, but turbocharged engines are (usually) more efficient at extracting the chemical energy from fuel due to their cycles being less irreversible as they repurpose the kinetic energy of the exhaust gas as boundary work during compression (the most efficient processes are reversible processes but those are hypothetical processes that do not exist in real life just like ideal gasses.). Also, a big engine will have more internal friction than a smaller engine, adding to the fuel use.
@@mhess427 turbo engines are kind of unusual period as mentioned by the commenter before me they use the energy in the exhaust gases to compressor to force it into the combustion chamber. This increases the amount of air hence you require more fuel when you're in full Boost then you do when you're just cruising. Essentially the more boost use the more fuel you need to combust. There is a very strict fuel-air ratio in gasoline engines and no matter if the engine is turbocharged or not that fundamental ratio Remains the Same. So let's say you buy a turbocharged car and it's rated at 29 Mi to the gallon but you discover that you're only getting 24 miles to the gallon. The car is again brand new. The reason that you're not getting the rated mileage is that you have a heavy foot you're using too much throttle which is involving the turbocharger more so you need more fuel. Now I'm an older guy so I don't look to go as fast IDs precisely the speed limit no matter where I'm at. I've got a naturally heavy foot to be honest, so I put my cruise control on in most situations other than bumper-to-bumper traffic. I have 2019 Hyundai Elantra no turbocharger with dual clutch transmission. The EPA rating for the car is 37 miles per gallon. My style of driving around town which where I live could be up to 55 mph I get 38 miles to the gallon period and on the highway I get 42 miles per gallon. What I have noticed if I go 5 miles over 70 mph my gas mileage drops about 5 miles to the gallon. Essentially the way cars are tuned today by the automakers to meet EPA cab requirements their Peak efficiencies is going to be at 70 mph anyting over and efficiencies going to fall off dramatically. It also matters what gasoline you use. The argument that all gasoline is the same is halfway right. Refineries pump gasoline into pipelines to go all over the country. Once they go to the distribution points that's where they're combined with chemicals for each specific brand. Gasoline is one of the few things you can buy that you get exactly what you pay for period for example when I bought my 2019 Elantra I use shell regular gas. One day I was in a hurry and I went to a Wawa that was across the street and filled up. My gas mileage drop 25% within a few miles. I actually keep an eye on my gas mileage because that is your first indication that something may be wrong with your car. I know this is a very long reply and I hope you find it useful. My personal recommendation is Shell gasoline. I've been burning it in my car since 1983. And whenever I deviate from that I lose gas mileage. That is my personal experience driving probably in excess of 250 thousand miles to date.
Well it is pretty much ensured that humanity will be extict before that happens (because the sun will run out of energy, our galaxy will collide with another galaxy and eventually run out of energy) and it's predicted to happen in 10^100 years which means it's not something you should worry about :)
Yeah well just our sun burns 5 million tons of hydrogen or 3.8 x 10³³ ergs, every single second and we only get 0.01% of that so pretty sure your puny electric heater isn't going to do anything significant.
I live in a travel trailer in New Hampshire, and I have two heaters. One is a 1500W Lasko tall-and-skinny heater that oscillates. I picked this one because it has a remote control. I found a second one that is an oil-filled convective heater but is broken so that it's stuck on low and can't be turned off. I use the Lasko in the bedroom at night (nice to be able to control it without getting out of bed) and pull it into the kitchen during the day. I use the radiator when I'm away at work because it doesn't use much electricity and I just want to keep the inside of the trailer above freezing, which works well even in temperatures of 10 below. I have a fan that blows air through the fins and circulates the "warm" air very well. If it's really cold (25 below, yes I've seen it that cold) I'll run both heaters. I've gone through a lot of heaters to see which one works the best (most are used that people give to me). I have a weather station that can also measure the inside temperature, and I can view the temperature graph on a web page. I take a heater and run it until the temperature levels out and then switch to a different one. After an hour, I can see if the inside temperature dropped, rose, or pretty much stay the same. If the temperature drops, that heater is toast. If it rises, the current heater gets replaced. Currently the oscillating Lasko is the best, keeping the temperature at least 10 degrees warmer than anything else I've tried. And no, I can't use a radiant heater because it would be a fire hazard in the small confines of the trailer. One thing I have to do regardless of the heater is to place a fan near the ceiling aiming down. Heat rises so I have to push it down again to get a more even heating. In a house this isn't much of a problem, but in a travel trailer without an arctic package, it's a must. Back when I was stationed in the Army in Alaska, I had to work in a small shed to do weather balloon flights. The shed had an oil burning furnace and when running on 75 below days, it could get the air at the ceiling to about 150 degrees. Unfortunately, the air at the floor was below zero, and the air at desk height was barely above freezing. After I started working there, the engineer in me figured out a way to heat things up. I put a fan on the ceiling aiming down and the temperature became comfortable. Oil use in the heater went down substantially too. What once became the garbage job at that station became one of the best ones there. Sorry for the large post. Thought you might find it interesting.
I watch this channel every now and then and found this video while I was looking for a bigger space heater. I think I'll stick with my current "small room" 1500w unit Thank you for helping me save some cash.
Refreshing honesty ! I love people like you. I bought 4 ceramic heaters all rated the same 1500W that were not UL approved and had bad switches on them. The switches were steal springs with about a millionth on and inch copper coating on them. One was perfectly rusted over in an even coating of rust not copper. Also the cords were 16-2 wire instead of 14-2 a fiery death trap. Yes I fixed them all. Amazon was asking $170.00 for each recently ! I paid $70.00 each. After my Amazon review I could not find those heaters on Amazon. These heaters were knock offs of the original Pelonis disc heaters of which I still own one from the 1990's all metal well made and UL approved. People should be aware of products made in foreign countries not made to certified quality standards.
Just get three 500-watt halogen work lights. Install them overhead. Not only do you get heat, you also get quality lighting that feels like the summer sun 🌞
@@theoledicktwist6247 call me when they sell shades you can use rolling in the couch/bed and general lazyman uses without it digging in your face... Circadian rythm is overrated, i know, but doing nothing indoors is the best winter sport ever, and bright lights don't help much.
The one advantage I found to the oil filled heaters, when I was living in a house that had been damaged by fire, gutted, and little no insulation, was that on cold nights I could toss my blanket over the heater and it helped to keep me warm. The surface temp got warm, very warm even, but never hot enough to actually catch anything on fire. (I of course would never suggest anyone do this, but. it worked for the very unique situation I was in at the time.) For my daytime activities the forced air building up under my desk, and blowing across me was much more refreshing and warming.
When I was a kid, my Mom would put one of those oil heaters in the bathroom during the coldest months. I would get up every morning, turn the heater on, then throw my clothes for school over the heater before eating breakfast. It would make everything nice and toasty by the time I had to get ready for school.
Oh for sure. In that sense, they seem a bit safer. Also, you could say that that other heaters aren't necessarily quite 100% efficient but very close to it The reason why I say that is because if it has a fan, you've lost a tiny amount to noise. If it has lighting you've lost a tiny amount to light. It's probably a bit pedantic to say that they're probably like 97 or 99% efficient which isn't something you'd notice ofc. My personal preference is deffo oil filled radiators because of how the heat lingers after being turned off, and tbh being fairly safe in comparison to the other ones where they can instantly set alight if you're not careful
I’ll add; in a power outage the oil heater has a good bit of heat stored and the room will cool off much more slowly (hopefully in time for the power to get fixed 🤪).
Get a Epson eco tank printer. You can print thousand upon thousands of pages without needing a refill. I went three years without needing a refill on ink.
@@stevelux9854 I often wondered about that ... Correct me if I am wrong, but I have always got the impression that, long term, a planned maintenance contract for x equipment is often more valuable, and thus generally generates more revenue than buying x in, and of, itself, especially if, like most lazy people like me, whom has taken out domestic household appliance insurance, you don't think about chopping and changing your insurer that often, if at all. So whilst decent printers are expensive, depending on how long they actually last, and depending how many ink cartridges you use (especially given their tiny volume ...), it doesn't take that long to wind up paying out as much in cartridges as you did for the initial printer ... And just to make it worse, the cartridges that come with the printer are not always filled to capacity ... so buying a new printer everytime you need new cartridges is no longer as cost saving it once was ...
My understanding from a relative of mine that used to work at HP, is that HP sells printers at cost - that is at no profit or depending on the market at a slight loss; just so they can sell higher quantities of the ink, toner, supplies, parts, service and extended warranties which is where they make their real profit. HP is a big enough mover in the printer business where other manufacturers had to follow or their sales would take a massive hit.
@@TechnologyConnections So what you call "district heating" is what we in Germany know as "Fernwärme" (lit. far (away) heat)? That's what warms me right now. We get a pipe of hot water into the house (and a flow-back pipe as well, it's strictly a closed circuit; and an enerhy-meter has temperature feelers into both pipes). It's produced by the city, though I'm not entirely certain in what kind of plant - anyway, safer than burning something locally, and presumably, more efficient, too. Outside, the pipes are below-ground and carry heavy insulation.
@@TechnologyConnections District heating is how i've lived over half of my life. It comes from the local chemical plant and research facilities using their waste heat from processes and energy production to warm up our houses. They do, sadly, have to fire up the small coal plant when it hits -25C but it is in quite short periods. I love it... It is stable, steady heat source and since the radiators line up every wall, usually below windows, the heat will spread nicely and evenly. I just happened to set up a thermometer in the ceiling level an hour ago (it was eBay package delivery day :) ) , it is showing 24C and my floor is 22.3C (i live on top of a bomb shelter, the vault below is quite cool all year round... another common feature in a Finnish apartment building..). Many forget that you need to circulate air also in the winter time... One does not need a large fan for diffusing air, even a 120mm PC fan can do it if used strategically... Electric passive radiators are maybe the best but alone they tend to create that heat "bubble" and either are glowing red hot or are barely warm.
@tan j maz First was 100% Menards. Second was WalMart. Third I think was Target based on the "conveyable" decal that looks similar to others I've seen there. But it's the only one I'm not 100% sure on.
An overlooked aspect concerns the multiple watt option. Multiple heaters on the same circuit breaker are problematic if all are 1500w. Older homes are impacted by this.
I agree with everything stated with the exception of, " buy the cheapest." There's an argument that, more cheap ones have safety issues. Yet, there is no guarantee that a higher price equals better quality or safety. Research on quality and safety should be included in the purchase, not just the price.
That's why it is still up to the consumer to do some homework don't just grab the cheapest one or the most expensive one because you think one is better or they are the same it's still up to you to do the homework and find out why the more expensive one is better or is it least more expensive
@@cpcattin Yes they pass UL testing, but they don't necessarily have features that improve safety. My cheap space heater has no tip-over protection. So if it falls on its face, it'll keep running, blowing hot air directly at the carpet. The thermostat nob setting should prevent it from getting so hot as to catch fire, but still, not ideal.
I bought a solid, brand-name heater for 40€, when the cheap models starts at 20€. I was fully aware that the wattage was the only element when it comes to heat. And yet i think it was a good thing - i have no assurance its internal components are good, but chances are they are. It certainly feels more "solid" in my hands, more heavy and stable, with no noises when i shake it. I had it for over 5years now, still working flawlessly. Honestly, i think i made the right call.
Back in the days we used to have such in the bathroom. Great for warning it up before showering and help dry it up after. Nothing fancy and genius as these. Just a big orange glowing piece of metal in a damp proof package hung high up, against direct water contact.
I bought mine because it was a $60 digital thermostat heater that I got on sale for $10 in the spring. Plus it has a 750 watt mode so the circuit isn’t always loaded. I’ve also noticed the thermostat is also effected by humidity. I like a warm bathroom when I shower. The heater set at 86f/30c will never stop running with dry air. When showering and the humidity is 100%, it’ll cut off at 75ish. 🤔
Thats most likely because the humidity takes heat away from the heater faster since the air now has more mass and capacity for heat, so the internal thermostat never gets triggered.
@@willhaney96 This is because 86°F in dry air feels equivalent to 75°F in humid air. Water is way more effective in heat transfer and dispersion. This is why we use ice cubes to cool drinks and water in car radiator to cool it down. Dry air is very poor at heat transfer and dispersion. Think metal tin coffee cups or large ice chest. They have an air void in between that doesn't allow heat transfer to occur. This Will be even more effective if they create a empty vacuum in the air void.
@@Mrkevi123 Quick note, don't use water in your radiator, use coolant (aka "antifreeze"). It's water with additives that lower its freezing temperature (sure) and, as I understand it, resist electrolysis (somehow. I'm not a chemist, nor am I a particularly smart guy), rust, and increase the boiling point (which is already increased because your coolant system is under pressure, not unlike a pressure cooker). Consider all of this information hearsay from an unreliable source
@@willhaney96 Humid air is actually less dense (look up the molar mass of air vs. water). The 3D water vapor molecules do have more heat capacity, specific and volumetric, than the diatomic oxygen and nitrogen molecules, but that means it takes more energy to heat up a volume of water vapor, or humid air, than dry air to a specified temperature.
I love that you point out that the fan actually adds all its consumed power to the room as heat. I've always tried to point that out to people when they think that a fan "cools a room off" no, you're adding 20 watts of heat to the room, you're just assisting evaporative cooling and preventing warm air from your body heat from accumulating around your body by being in a breeze, but the room air will get warmer by adding fans.
Interesting. So cooling the hundreds of watts of electric lights used to work on the inside of an aluminum fuselage on a wide body jet with hurricane fans ain’t gonna cool it down much, will it?
@@cme98 Unless your bedroom is made of aluminum or another heat conductive material, generates a lot more heat than the surrounding air, and the air being pushed around by the fans is circulated away from your heat generating, conductive room, no fans will not cool down your room.
@@cme98 Depends on if it's sucking in cooler air from the outside, exhausting the hot air to the outside, or just moving air around inside a sealed room. I know you were trying to be an asshole with your comment, but ignorance doesn't really make you look good
"And eventually this leads to the heat death of the universe 🎉" Haaaaaa. That's quality humor right there. Also truth. I'm now existentially mortified.
@aud_io What are you talking about. Heat death occurs once all the black holes have evaporated and there is only uniform dispersal of energy across the entire universe, work will be impossible (and there would be nothing to do the work anyway). Intelligent life will necessarily all be gone before heat death of the universe occurs, because an intelligent being is a big clump of energy.
I worked in IT at a large hospital system. Electric space heaters were illegal by City Code and hospital policy. There were many Nursing managers in office with cold feet. My solution was a private HP laser jet II old old printer. It was about 2000 watts with no power saving mode. My team laced it by their feet with the printer fan blowing hot air. Placing a power strip with off switch for when legs because too hot or when they went home. Due to upgrades we had a few hundred of the old HP laser jet printer- heaters. In addition they could print confidential records with out going to the open group printer.
All space heaters are 100% efficient, but the pricing isn't differentiated on efficiency (despite some dubious marketing claims). Rather, it's differentiated on materials and build quality. That small heater isn't designed to run continuously and probably will burn out its heating elements if you try. The larger heater will have more robust components (in theory), which allow it to run a heavier duty cycle.
While this may make sense in theory, it's actually quite the opposite in practice. In the follow-up video, I compared a space heater like the little ceramic one to a "large room" oil-filled unit. The large unit would not run continuously, but the ceramic one was just fine doing so. Keep in mind that the fan of the ceramic unit is effectively cooling itself all the time. It's not just for blowing air around :)
@@anujmchitale Yea but the "work" a heater does is "increasing entropy" so to speak, and there is no resistance to increasing entropy. Thus it's 100% efficient at performing its work. You might just be making a semantic joke though. Not really sure~
This video got me thinking about a lesson plan that I wrote (1977ish), called "Introduction to DC & AC Electricity". The DC part only took one lecture and one lab. Once completed, students understood what current (I), voltage(E) and resistance(R) were and how to apply Ohms Law. The AC part took a couple of days. Understanding how DC and RMS AC voltages relate to each other, the math & etc.. It finished up with safety information about 12V car batteries and 3-wire 120 & 230 AC power. By using simple analogies to water pressure and water flowing in pipes GPM etc, 'anyone' can understand current flow, voltage as potential (or pressure), fuses, loads, shorts, opens, off-on switches & etc. I believe that 7th graders could be taught these basics in about 1 week. (If they were given good handouts or video links in advance of the training, maybe only 3 days would be needed). More advance knowledge of AC isn't really needed for most users/consumers. Anyways, I think it would be worthwhile for science teachers to up their game and teach some basic electricity classes that might save some of those kids a lot of money or maybe even their life someday. Every winter people people die in fires that were started because someone didn't understand the limits of a 15A 120AC socket..
But not to physics on the electrical side.. If you take a 1500W PTC heating element force cooled and connected to 110V it pulls always the same wattage. If the fan fails it will burn itself that's why by design there's an overheat switch. The wire wound type heaters go down on wattage after first few minutes even with cooling, so a 1500W element might pull less under operation!! If you buy the wire wound self regulating heater element with 1500w from China you will notice that it pulls 4000W and more on start up, like a dead short until it reaches a higher temperature and resistance rises to stop current flow..thus less power draw and radiation of heat into the room. Force cooling needs to be extreme high pressure and volume on wire wound resistive to reach the efficiency of the dense PTC elements with same wattage, radiant constant power wise
I use a space heater and an oil filled radiator, the space heater heats the space then the oil filled heater silently takes over, Which is much better when using nighttime tariffs.
I can attest to a tiny 1500w heater being capable of heating a large room. in fact i have to turn it off after a couple hours as the room gets too hot.
me too, in fact I have the smallest version that costs 24.99 (ceramic) and it heats a high-ceiling ~800sq/ft room so well that after a few hours if I dont open the window a crack it gets too hot.
JudMan: Because electricity is inclusive for my unit and I have the thermostat cranked full all the time...shamefully conservation is not high on my list
While I do understand that everything is Built In China now, there are levels of build quality to cost out as well. As a industrial electrician I have taken many of these little heaters apart in order to try to save them once they failed. The cheap $12 units use 1500 watt. The more expensive units... 1500 watt. That's true. But I have seen cheap tip-over switches that are a plastic pogo switch to bit of steel to spring steel . No arc quenching, no encapsulation on a 10 to 15 amp switching circuit! That is scary! Under rated AWG to mains or heating grid. Grounding missing. No strain relief on mains power. Heating grid with hot spot heating and no nickle/cobalt in the grid. Yes, I have seen so called "top" quality expensive units built like shit as well. I have also taken apart quality units that are still 1500 watt that have never failed just to look. Why the cost? Rockford Microswitch tip over, perfectly loomed wiring, matched copper throughout, double insulated. Are they cheap. No. Do they put out any more heat than any other 1500 watt heater. No. Am I more confident of having one of the highest Full Load Amp (FLA) devices I could possibly own sitting on the carpet in my home? You bet your ass I am.
It's almost like buying speakers or headphones, the quality is going to vary a lot, price doesn't equal quality, and its basically impossible to know what you are getting unless you tear it apart, or have someone else do it (aka read reviews). Plenty of brands are just going to charge more for name renegotiation or the look. Just like speakers or headphones, I'll just buy the cheapest heater with 100's of positive reviews, unless I'm looking for something specific.
I was wondering about durability. I don't doubt that each unit is equally efficient at performing its task, however, it seems like if you've got a large room to heat that the heater is likely to be on for longer periods of time than a small room heater would be.
@@TheNiteNinja19 That's overkill, you're probably better off just doing that in the wet areas like the bathroom or kitchen and using GFI breaker on the entire circuit for the other areas. The other areas are much less likely to ever trip and you can save a bit of money and inconvenience by putting that all in the breaker box.
I have an old fashioned space heater. A wood stove. It's 200% efficient because the wood warms you twice. Once when you cut it, and once when you burn it.
Ewwww bitcoin. Thanks for fucking over the computer component market just so you can get richer. I hope your profits tank more than they have been and you are left with nothing.
Really, that's what you took away from this video.............. I mean i'm just thinking if they are made for 1500W then surely you can do a tweak to get more an extra 1800W out of it............
@@johndorian4078 You can't tweak more resistance from a heating coil, you can only bump voltage up to increase wattage. So unless you're running it from a generator that has a voltage drop adjustment, or feel like entirely replacing the heating coil with something homemade from several salvage heaters, there is no tweaking to be had.
Well in the USA a 110v socket is often limited to 15A, and in that case 1500watts has already used up the circuit in question. You'll flip a breaker if you draw more.
not really.... Most are truthful but they are paid to word things to attract buyers. Clever or engaging wording does not equal lying. This however does not make sense. That said none are a lie, they are all 1500 watts. They can not be sold unless tested and UL listed.
@@JwilliamsAssociates : Underwriters Laboratory (UL) is a joke. Much like Chambers of Commerce or Economic Development groups; these organizations charge membership fees for inclusion in their listing and use of their logos (UL® listed!) on product packaging, or business instruments like signage or advertising. I'd trust Consumer Reports (CR) before UL, because CR actually conducts product tests and publishes the results untarnished by paid bias.
Anyone else remember the ads in various men’s magazines in the 60’s and early 70’s that pushed ‘sexual aids/stimulants’? Get your Spurious Spanish Fly! How many bothered to look up the word spurious?
I learned about this the hard way as a result of some malicious false advice from my [now former] landlord when I first moved out of my parent's place. Our agreement involved me being responsible for the electric bill but they would cover the gas bill. When winter rolled around they advised me to use a space heater because it would be "more efficient" to only heat the room I was sleeping in at night rather than heating the whole place. When the $600+ electric bill showed up I was floored because as far as I knew I was doing the more "efficient" method of heating! A few conversations later I found out what had happened and got into a fight with my landlord. The TL;DR was that my landlord more or less lied to my face to save a few bucks on the gas bill. Literally the better solution is to just have your tenants foot the gas bill! That one MONTH cost me more than triple what an entire year of gas would have cost me!
Probably because it's wrong misleading information 100% without a doubt hands down you don't even need to do any kind of testing hook up a small one for an hour in a room with a big one for now in the room you tell me what's cheaper and what works better
It’s because he’s making some basic mistakes, he’s done a very small amount of homework, and misrepresenting/misunderstanding what a BTU really is, he’s also not shown how each unit uses the watts to turn into heat, they are different and giving out heat in different ways. For efficiency- the small fan unit is best suited to a small room, the convector is best suited to a medium room as an oil filled radiator is better suited to larger rooms even while using the same amount of watts. His misunderstanding of what BTU ‘s are and how they are used to calculate temperature is his downfall. Anyone who has experience installing or fitting heating solutions will probably give a thumbs down, and that probably 1in 40 viewers. The like/dislike ratio is probably very accurate. As for his disdain at how ‘all of the heaters use the same amount of electricity and therefore must give out the same a amount of heat, and that these are 100% efficient’ clearly shows his lack of understanding at how each unit uses electricity, along With a basic lack of understanding of physics. Just because they are heaters it doesn’t mean they use the supply in the same way. Imagine 2 light bulbs, one LED and one incandescent, just because they both take electricity and turn it into light doesn’t mean they both use the electricity in the same way and therefore should give out the same light and there must be a conspiracy somewhere. Indeed1500w is chosen as a simple, clear, safe wattage and the device is built to stay within those tolerances, the low efficient fan heater uses electricity to produce heat quickly and gets so hot over such a small area that a fan is employed to push the heat out, the convection heater has larger heating plates or coils and therefore produces less ambient heat but over a larger area and therefore is more efficient using convection.
Some people understand that the printed maximum wattage rating is not the same thing as the actual BTUs a device can continuously produce. If he'd bother to do even a basic experiment he would immediately learn that his theory is missing a few relevant facts.
Or….. this video [somehow] managed to offend one of our precious neurotics we have today in society. Triggered by space heaters because it's not fair the haves aren't sharing their heat with the downtrodden and disenfranchised have-nots.
Hello - I have used space heaters as a “supplement” to central heating (gas) much as you describe, for many years, under the premise that I will only be in one room at a time for extended periods. Usually in my bedroom at night, but in the last few years I have expanded this to include my living room, and my den when I am working from home. My electric cost does rise dramatically, and my gas bill seems still relatively high. The space heaters also work much more slowly, and are generally not as effective in “large” rooms. Last year I went a step further and plugged each of the space heaters into heavy-duty (15A) smart plugs. With this setup, I can set up routines to ensure I don’t forget to turn off a space heater in a room I will not I occupy. I can also set routines to turn on space heaters in rooms I do expect to occupy, before actually doing so, to try to “preheat” the room. (In the summer I do this with fans to help circulate cooler air.) I later went a step further when I found wifi-enabled thermometers; with this I can set them away from the heater, and set up routines to turn the heater on/off based on trigger temperatures. I have yet to set up my space heaters for this winter because I had seen so much increase in electricity usage, but I can also track it daily using my electric utility company’s app. The gas company does not provide usage info until after the billing period. I was hoping someone might have a comparison of heat provided per unit of either gas (in mcf), and electric (in Watts), so that a cost comparison could be made. Do you have any examples of how low you can reasonably set your central heating thermostat, that space heaters will still be effective?
I have 4 Tee shirts under two sweatshirts and have two woolly hats on - warm as toast with no space heaters If I am sitting, I put a fleece throw over my gnarly ancient knees all pretty easy really ;
I only heated my house with the central unit which works with gas. And never thought to use a space heater because electricity is more expensive. Now, I switched to a provider who offers free nights of electricity and delivery from 9pm to 7am, but more expensive days. So I'm trying to find out if I can use an electrical space heater at night without risk of burning my house.
@@AdmitthatijustdiditX if you get a tariff deal like peacefrog0521, it makes financial sense to use free night time electric in resistive heating and heat battery storage. Can probably still get the old night storage radiators, but pretty simple to make one. As the daytime price is higher, it pays to get as much done at night - set immersion heaters, washing machines, dishwashers etc on timers to run late evening or at night.
No. This guy has no concept of thermodynamics.... he even says at the end of the video that "the surface of these baseboard heaters gets much hotter"...... if his point is that both heaters put out the same heat because they are 1500 watt then he just made his own point moot.
@@justinray582 I think that has to do with surface. A conventional radiator or that oil filled heater can release heat on a big surface. If you have a smaller surface like a wire that heats up it has to be at a much higher temperature to release the same amount of heat because it has a lot smaller surface. Think of an incandescent lightbulb. It doesn't release nearly as much energy as an heater yet its wire is hot enough to melt metal, because it's very small. I'm no expert so I could be wrong
@@santnox7559 does it really matter? If the surface is hotter then that means the machine is letting more heat out of the heater then another. Even though they are the same wattage.
We were living in a trilevel home and I did a two experiment. We had gas furnace central heating and during this two year experiment, I used ceramic heaters with each room having it's own thermostat to control that room's heat and the net result was there was no difference in the cost of heating our house between gas or electric heaters. We had a separate gas and electric supplier.
Overall a nice and well explained video. However, I want to point out a few things: 1. Efficiency in converting electricity to heat is one thing but efficiency to make you feel warm is another. Our body doesn't perceive temperature objectively but rather based on how much energy it (our body) gains or loses. So although an oil heater without a fan and a ceramic heater with a fan might both convert the same amount of energy into heat, the latter might make you feel warmer faster especially if you direct the fan towards you, resulting in perhaps setting it to a lower setting. 2. In a well insulated space, both a small and a big heater might have the same result (provided they are both 1500W). But in a less insulated room, it matters to pump in heat faster than it is lost through the insulation. And again, the purpose of these is to make humans feel warm. So, the ones that distribute the heat faster and more evenly at lower parts of the room (ie closer to your body and not the ceiling) will probably be more efficient in a less insulated room.
Thank you, I thought this would be obvious to anyone thinking this through one step further - if you pump 1500 watts into air with a little tiny fan you're going to get a HOT ceiling and a cold floor. If you distribute it better with a bigger fan (or mix it in the room, with a ceiling fan etc) the overall room will feel warmer. And you might have somewhat less heat loss through the ceiling or convecting into other rooms
Given a fixed input Wattage, the physical size of the unit affects the need for forced air. A smaller heater which would require a fan would not take up as much space in a smaller room, which is _perhaps_ why they suggest room sizes. The need for forced air is also likely not just for safey, but based on the average egress air temperature , which, if too high, might result in excessive air stratification. For example, if you took a small heater and removed the fan and removed the housing so that nothing melted (and altered it somehow so that the PTC didn't affect the input Wattage), then sat next to that in a room versus either a physically larger unit or smaller one with a fan, it is likely that you would not feel the heat as much (excluding radiant) unless there was other circulation in the room to help mix the air. So, I'm guessing the manufacturers thus want the consumer to make the trade-off for noise versus size taken by the product, based on the room size.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I'd argue the cheap ones are better at heating since they're more likely to start a fire.
Yeah, cheaper parts and cutting corners usually isn't good for a firebox plugged into the wall. I'm surprised this wasn't mentioned.
Like most things, don't buy the most expensive or the cheapest.
@@jonmayer Good thing civilized countries require electronics to be tested for safety before being allowed to be sold there.
@@jonmayer Thats actually very good advice
The resulting fire would bump the efficiency above %100.
@@ThatBrubakerFellow fires are very inefficient though
My advice is buy an Xbox and a 32" tv . My son's room is 10 degrees warmer than any other room in the house ! 😃
Probably batin in there.
Or my gaming pc, the room is boiling when that is on
@@splosh2070 me and my 5700xt
@@gojiragraphics6755 he said hot.. not sticky
I have a 68" plasma tv. Heats my living room. No joke.
Reminds me of the old proverb:
"Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."
HansDelbruck53 , that’s dark ....
@@rewer Some of the best humor can be found in the dark.
Or stumbled over anyway.
Pratchett? =P
this is my new reason to live.
@@rewer No, it's bright!
Id argue the oil heater wins a few points for the popping sounds it makes as it heats up. Very comfy.
True
Can you please remind me what your pfp is from? I knew at one point but have forgotten so I’m out of the loop. There’s gotta be thousands upon thousands of folks who use it so I was curious. Thanks
Deus ex
@@crazydrummer181 it's JC, the main character you play as in the original Deus Ex from the far off year of 2000
@@burnin8able thanks
Many moons ago I worked at IBM. They had a rule against space heaters. But they had a lot of obsolete computers stored. So if you were cold, you just went and got a computer or two, stuck them under your desk, and turned them on. They were only maybe 500 watts each, but it would warm up the space under your desk.
If they were idling, they were likely only outputting < 200w each. My 10+ year old six core gaming PC doesn't even use 500w at full load. My 10+ year old 42" Sony Bravia LCD uses about 250w! I actually use it to heat my room in the winter...I put a fireplace screen saver on my old PS3 which adds another 150w or thereabouts. Even my 18w aquarium light changes the temp of my small room by a degree or so.
maybe 50-150watts each unless they were put underload
I never did that trick myself, so I don't know if the people who did arranged a load on the machines, but it was around 1995, so maybe they were bigger power hogs back then.
@@AaronHendu thuban? Or shudders FX? Or those really uncommon intels of the time
Just grab a couple G5s and if they complain tell them why’d you make them so damn hot then
Makes perfect sense that the smaller heater is meant for a small room, even if it's higher power, because if your room is really small, the medium heater won't fit inside it.
RFC3514 then why bother using medium heater on a medium room when a small heater works the same as the medium heater and even saves space?
To impress your neighbours, duh!
@@RFC3514 and if you don't talk to or care about your neighbors
What type of rooms are you living in? Broom closets?
This was a sarcastic comment and it's going over everyone's heads.
I love the ads "uses only as much energy as your coffee maker" meanwhile...your coffee maker uses 1500 watts. You just don't have it on all day.
This is typical downtalk to the nontechnical "peasants". If you try to advertise that your equipment is efficient, you don't say "uses less than 60W", you say "uses less power then a 60W lightbulb". Another one you will hear is "spins faster then an airplane propeller" (for an ad such as a garden mulcher or "awesome" food processor). But most propellers are large in diameter, and spin rather slowly as far as RPM's are concerned (2000). So the claim is "true" in a sense, but meaningless.
Brian Park most consumers aren't going to do their research if the box says it's more efficient or better than they'll probably just go with it and assume it's true you'd be surprised how many electronics have "4K" or "Gaming" arbitrarily slapped on the label what's the difference between a "gaming" desk and a normal one well you tell me they look exactly the same....its literally just a normal desk
I use my Coffee maker to make Ramen and to Cook canned soup.
The average European electric kettle is 2000-3000 watts.
Probably explains why Americans aren't as fond of tea. XD
HD is also another one, even being used in computer applications, yet means nothing in that context.
I recently installed a 97% efficient gas furnace in my house and when I heard that the price of natural gas was going to go up by a lot in December I also installed a set back timed thermostat to turn it down at night. I kept the thermostat set fairly low both day and night trying to keep the bill down.
What I didn't know is that two of my roommates had electric heaters going all day and night in their rooms...at the end of the month I got the energy bill and it was insanely higher than it had ever been before. I know that electricity is the most expensive way to heat anything.
At the beginning of January we had a meeting and we agreed that I would turn up the furnace thermostat to a much warmer comfortable temperature if they would unplug their electric heaters and stop using them altogether.
I just got my energy bill (gas and electricity combined) for January and the bill was exactly HALF as much as December's bill. I knew that it would probably be lower but I never expected it to be THAT much lower.
Lesson learned.
It depends on jurisdictions - for Quebec Canada it is cheaper to heat with electricity
@@rangyixiong Not much of the country is so close to a hydro plant that electricity is cheaper than Gas for heat. I live in the Colorado mountains at over 9,000 feet. Around here gas fired forced hot air supplemented with a good wood stove on the real cold nights is the way to go. We are not even into December and last night's low was 13 below zero F .That is -25 celsius
It is more efficient to keep one temperature or vary high / low temperature only slightly
The 97% AFUE is in reference to how much CO2 is released into the air, or gas efficiency. That probably depends on what condenser you have as well. The higher the seer rating, the more energy efficient.
@@WaxWitch My home heating gas bill is much lower with my 97% AFUE furnace than it was with my old furnace.
An important word on space heaters: STOP PLUGGING THEM INTO POWER STRIPS! If you can’t plug it directly into an outlet, get a quality extension cord, the shortest you can get to do the job.
As an IT professional, I can’t tell you how many melted down, turning brown or black power strips I have found over the years with space heaters plugged into them. In addition, how many glitchy computer problems I have solved by removing the space heater from the same strip the computer is plugged into.
This really should be better known!
People love sneaking these damn things in and stashing them under their desks. Its the first thing i look for when odd problems arise on cold days.
Agreed and one of the many reasons I am glad I don't really have to deal with users in an IT setting anymore. In my IT management days I was reported to my managers on a regular basis because I was being mean. Which, in my case being mean meant that I had asked a idiot users not to plug a heater or Christmas tree lights into the same power strip as their computer was plugged into. I would explain to users till I was blue in the face about how these things would cause surges which could cause issues with computers. But to no avail cause I would come in daily anything from crazy acting systems to a call center room with a smell of smoke from something that burned out. Which, in one case -- an idiot user actually stayed at a workstation while it was smoking. SMH.
You just have to love how intelligent people are. I've seen a presentation room that includes a power strip plugged into another strip plugged into an extension cord. I always unplug the two redundant strips and use the extension cord directly and wonder at who is foolish enough to use the original setup (and keeps restoring it.)
@@nameless-sn3tj I know, right? "My computer keeps crashing"
Ask them to explain the crash: "I'll be doing something and it just shuts off all the sudden, and I don't get it because I have a UPS"
Do some quick desk diving to find that the UPS is plugged into a surge strip, and that they have a surge strip hanging off the UPS. I try to explain how they confuse each other, but they don't get it. Just tell them to trust me and I get rid of the power strips and plug the computer and monitor directly into the UPS and the UPS directly into the wall, and they have no further problems.
Haha my $10 space heater from Walmart has worked great for the past 4 years. Good on you for pointing out this bogus marketing.
Agree, the Pelonis heater is $10 and works great
loud as can be though
Eh, no worse than any other fan driven heater.
I got me an off-brand, $10 1500w small space heater from wish that still gets crazy hot & quietly too after almost 2 years....outlasting the more expensive, $110 1500w Lasko branded big room heater that has only been used twice! Lesson learned here.
@@AmandaHugenkiss2915 Pelonis ftw.
What's the point of a space heater if you can buy an Intel Core i9 processor?
Good point. Or even better one of these GPU video cards, then mine cryptos.
I heat my home with bitcoin miners. Why pay for heat when you can get paid to do it?
Or those old Pentium 4's
I used to run 3@ P4 systems of Distributed Computing programs (BOINC) in the winter, to keep my office warm. (a P4 system added 100W consumption when running at 100% when compared to idle)
It's not so great if you have to run an air conditioner in the summer. :P
I remember the old gas space heaters. My great grandmother had one with five or six fire bricks that on one surface had a "forest" of tiny evenly spaced cone shaped projections. The heater was across from the foot of a bed. Those projections at the bottom closest to the flame when hot would glow a shimmering pumpkin orange color. I remember on cold, quite winter nights staring into the fire box watching the cones change different shades or orange up and down the column of little cones, rarely reaching the top rows of cones. The "hissing" sound of the gas coming out of the gas jets, occasionally a "spark" would come flying out of the flames (i always imagined it was a bug of some kind that had gotten to close to the flame). Sometimes in the background a cold wind could be heard be whistling though the poorly fitting windows. Hypnotized by this I would eventually fall asleep and awaken to the smell of bacon, fresh biscuits and "breakfast is ready".
Wow, what a lovely memory. Thank you for sharing it with us.Those fresh biscuits sound amazing.
I loved your story. Thank you for sharing it! 😊
My granny had a Dearborn heater in the kitchen that was so comforting to watch while you ate breakfast
@@Cam-vz2zk Yeah! Its very calming, hypnotic, mesmerizing!!! That sounds an awful lot like asphyxiation!
Stephen King could run with this!
why did i watch this i live in a desert
disclaimer because i *still* get replies about this: no i dont live in every desert on the planet, and i am now very aware that deserts can be cold. thank you
Israel too?:)
We need 'em more than cold country citizens BC warm country building standards allow me to die from +12 rainy night... Why did I left Ukraine?🤓
And I live in South Florida. Around here some people buy space heaters when a cold front comes through, then return them to the store. 🤐
Same, but still, gets cold in the winter
Deserts tend to get cold quickly on winter nights. Still helpful on occasion.
some deserts get snow
i'm in northern az but still south of flag and we get snow. it'll get up to 80 again the next damn day but we get snow and then it'll be like 26 at night. so we have heaters in our bedrooms and i run the house heat or else everyone's basically unable to move in the morning lol.
a lot of the houses have tile floors and the window insulation isn't the best so it makes everything unreasonably drafty. i felt a lot more insulated in colorado because they actually build like they know it snows there, i think our houses up here could do better :P
Just buy the miracle heaters from China, which are labelled "150% efficiency" :)
They create new energy just like nuclear fusion! The Chinese have surely made that into a simple $4.50 home device by now.
ok racist
@@kelakakku half the time they're literally labelled in chinese, he's not being racist he's pointing out that the vast majority of those with bogus claims come from china as there's no law to stop them from BSing it in their own country then selling it to gullible americans.
@@alexphillips4325
People, please read the box or package. I want to know details, such as what type of battery does this device use. If it is not indicated or it is a non-standard battery, something other than AA or AAA or a standard 9-volt battery, then that tells me I probably should not buy it. It is poorly designed, it is probably junk.
Well at least some claims are obviously BS to people who actually know something about how that stuff works, and that is another reason not to buy it. They do not deserve the sale if they can not manage to represent their product honestly.
Obviously no mere electric heater can possibly produce 150% efficiency, unless it is using some radical new technology such as the NWO-suppressed free-energy technology, and if so, why in the world would they not boast about that also? Americans should not be so gullible.
Heat pumps are actually >100% efficient
Years ago, I was heating two bathrooms, one with a waffle iron, the other with a pop corn popper, both with the 1500 watt heating elements exposed.
My kinda guy, just doing what works.
@ I remember playing with a friend's easy-bake oven when I was 5. Are they still made? It used a 100W incandescent bulb for heat.
Wow. I hope things have gotten better for you lol.
Ah the jank heating methods
R Frizz yeah the still make them, there was even a Girl Scout one a few years ago.
As a person that's lived in very cold climates in motorhomes and trailers I've tried everything. For electric heaters the radiator style oil heaters definitely work better for keeping an area at a constant temp.. but none of them compare to a good woodstove.
The image that comes to mind is a car traveling at a moderate high speed on the highway to conserve energy as opposed to one that has to stop repeatedly, then burn more fuel to get where it's going. That's why highway fuel economy ratings are always better. "Slow and steady wins the race." It's fizzicks!
@@ItchyKneeSonYou'll still need to take a dump or drain your bladder!😂😂
Oil heating is AWFULLY expensive! I am referring to main heating not the oil space heaters.
@@leechjim8023 it's a sealed electric element heater that's filled with oil. It doesn't burn oil to create heat.
@@FINNIUSORION I was referring to oil furnace heating.
I am an HVAC guy for last 30 years and really enjoyed the video from the point of view how to educate customers. Very nice narration. I do not know if you did any video on explaining that if coming to a cold house, turning thermostat way high will NOT heat the house any faster. It just makes you having to go back and turning it to comfortable level some time later. I deal with that all the time. Also, about ventilation - opening the window just a crack will not really ventilate, it is just a heat loss spot with little of actual air exchange happening. And that goes for both heating or cooling season.
I install commercial automation systems and I cannot tell you how many times I've had to explain to people that just because they want to set the thermostat lower than corporate chosen 72 degrees that it won't cool the building faster lol
while this true, for some that have it located on the opposite side of the room they are in, the higher setting can allow the heat that does come out to not cool down as much as it hits them, so THEY will feel a tad warmer.
@@NickCranford
Part of the problem is that people are not educated, and they don't know that a thermostat is simply on or off, at least that is the way that it used to be, but now some systems are getting variable power output levels now. They have well pumps that can run at a rate to match the demand for water so that the pressure does not cycle from low to high to low to high as in the old days. Constant city water pressure at the cheaper price of well water. Some air conditioning systems now are variable also, for greater efficiency.
The other issue, is stupid thermostats that fail to indicate whether they are actually at the moment generating a call for heat or for cooling. There should be an indicator to show this, which would make it easier to adjust the thermostat properly. Gee, how are people supposed to figure out how things work, when the displays are designed by idiots with no reasonable diagnostics being shown?
@@yosefmacgruber1920 It's great when the bar indication get's smaller as you turn it up higher. Talk about deep confusion :)
@@Bubu567
An older-style thermostat could have a LED that lights up when a call for heat or a call for cooling is indicated. Now that thermostats are computers and have complicated liquid crystal displays, there ought to be a indicator, a triangle or the word "cool" or "heat" that appears, when it actually is generating a call for heat or a call for cooling. This is a clue to the dummies that adjust the thermostat too high or too low, that what they want is already being called for. Also a diagnostic towards repair, that if there is a call for heat, and no heating is occurring after a few minutes at most, check your heating unit, because the problem doesn't appear to be with the thermostat.
Since I understand how a lot of things work, I tend to trust thermostats to make the decision. If I am cold or hot, I will nudge the thermostat up or down little by little, and usually, at the point at which it generates a call for heat or cooling, I stop. And then when it is set just right, I tend to pretty much leave it alone.
But I am getting really sick and tired of stupid computers and the idiot lights on dashboards, that do not bother to tell us much of anything about what is wrong. Many electrical components have a LED or something that lights up, to indicate that at least the device is powered up. On some TVs, the power LED might flash or go off momentarily, when it is receiving a signal from the remote control. That is a diagnostic, that at least it is receiving something. Somewhere, I heard of there being some special type of paper, that if you aim a TV remote at it, it will convert the invisible infrared pulses or flashes so that they can be seen within the normal visual spectrum of light. Of course I have never heard of a TV coming with a piece this special diagnostic paper. And as complicated and computerized as TVs are now, if I could design the TV's software the way that I would like to, somewhere buried deep within its menus, I would have a diagnostic screen in which you could aim any standard infrared remote at the TV, even one not set for that TV, and it would display the actual remote digital number codes that its infrared sensor is reading and the signal strength.
Consider somebody building some experiment or custom project circuit. Well it needs switches or a keyboard or something to turn it on or set its modes, right? Depending on what it is, a old TV remote might be perfect, perhaps it went to an old TV that died and was thrown away. You could put some batteries in the remote, press each button, and write down a table of all the digital number codes. Then you could program those codes into your control circuitry and redefine the codes for controlling its own functions. So what would this be useful for? Oh who knows? Maybe a remote-controlled fan. You could build your speed-control module and attach it to the fan or plug the fan into it, and decide which buttons on your old TV remote would correspond to Very Low, Low, Medium, High, an off timer, etc. Or you could build a high-current-rating air conditioner control module to plug your window air conditioner into. It could be a programmable thermostat or something. But then it would need a digital readout display. Your project circuit wouldn't have to have any buttons on it, if you use an old TV remote as its input. Let's say that you need numerical input. Well the channel number buttons on the TV remote, ought to be perfect for that.
Last spring when my heat went out, I did find one compelling reason to buy the more expensive "fancy" heaters.... It's all the store had left
I have two oil-filled radiator heaters, one a fancy Delinghi and the other a Wally World special that cost less than half the other. Guess which one started dripping oil after its first winter?
CantankerousDave, the fancy one?
When I was looking into buying a space heater for my work office, I noticed that the different types of heaters kind of had explanations for how quickly they could heat a room. They didn't talk about "efficiency." I ended up getting a "mid-grade" ceramic heater, and it does heat up faster than the old coil space heater I already owned for my bedroom. That cheap $10 one probably works and may even be a fast heater, but it's made from the cheapest materials, it's connections inside are probably shoddy, so the thing will probably break down, overheat, the dial on the "thermostat" break off, etc. within a few years.
I honestly don't feel safe keeping a space heater on all the time and letting it turn itself on and off based on whatever setting I gave it. If I don't hear or feel it on, I might forget it's on, and leave without turning it off, so I just turn it on to full blast until I get a little too warm, then completely turn it off. It's usually a while before I feel the need to turn it on again.
@@CantankerousDave You can't leave a girl hanging like that
@@MeyaRoseGirl Well I agree that this video ONLY talks about heating capacity and efficiency. But not about durability of the heater. Buying a more expensive one can be justified if it last twice as long.
Fun story. I my wife and I have different approaches to buying things. I like to rigorously read consumer and professional reviews and by the best value option. My wife goes to Best Buy and picks up the first (or cutest) one she sees. So when we decided we needed a space heater for our office I got to reading. She on the other hand could not wait and went to the store and bought a $15 heater. My fancier hundred dollar heater came in a few days later. What we found was that her $15 heater heated the room much quicker than mine. We pretty much always use hers now.
Let me guess the wife's one is forced air cooled and loud, based around a small dense PTC "ceramic" heating element. It just pulls 1500W continuously on the 110V line...
Your premium one is silent, wire wound? Maybe tower style with a slow big fan that swivels the air slow?
Then the premium one only pulls 1500w on start and goes down with heat immediately...
@@kitecattestecke2303 the small one will work harder than the big one, it will break sooner and more likely dangerous. The big one maybe will warm the room equally
But in the same room both of them will take the same power to work, the big one can't magically put more power from the thin air
So, the lesson, as far as intelligence goes, is "Always marry UP a level! You got the memo... she didn't! You win! 🤣
Soooooo0000000
Cuter
Is
Better?
OR
U made a good choice in matrimony*
My wife is always right in my house. Obviously your wife is always right in your house. With luck you have learned this lesson.
Watching this while crossing Transylvania in a train with a broken heating system during autumn, thank you for helping me imagine what warmth feels like
Great video. I’ve been in the HVAC field for 22
years. I get tired of trying to explain this to people. Good job.
Yeah bu the duty cycle rating isn't continuous, that's why it's meant for smaller rooms. If you put it in a bigger room, it has to run longer and that little fan will fail sooner than a bigger one.
THANK YOU, mechanical engineer here and have tried to explain this to people. My poor sister fell for the "efficient Amish" heater..I have the $8.88 ones
The Amish heaters are way more aesthetically pleasing than the $8.88 Walmart one you have. It’s not “falling for” anything. It’s paying for the way something looks.
@@Hey_Jamie Is it really worth like $600 though when you're going to be just as warm either way??
@BenBenson Yea they look like shit, things look like they're sold on TV
Those Amish heaters are still a thing lol
Isn't an Amish heater a wood stove?
The bigger the heater is, the more space in the room it takes and thus the less space in the room it has to warm.
Yes, call me big brain.
The heater itself requires space in the room. Once its cooled to the ambient temperature of the room it requires energy to heat the heater as well. So therefore its likely equally as efficient. #BigBrain
@@musicwiz40 there's still a reason why they make bigger heaters and not just everything as a "small room" fan heater.
I'm guessing it's because the fan heaters overheat quickly, which makes them constantly turn on and off, which is unsuitable for larger rooms because it takes longer overall.
They're probably designed to run for shorter times. If they're run in a big room, they'd have to run pretty much constantly
It could also be that shifting air currents in a big room will constantly turn them on and off, which is not suitable.
Also, the safety aspect of it. They can lead to fires more easily than radiator heaters. That risk is majorly increased if they are unattended and run 24/7 with no breaks.
@@marioluigi9599 I agree with this logic. The larger sirface area of radiation disperses the heat more effectively as there is more contact area also the larger mass of metal holds onto heat for longer therefore releasing heat even whilst the resistive element is off.
@@musicwiz40 if we assume that small heaters turn off because the device itself overheated then sure. But that claim needs some evidence. I’d argue that’s a design flow though if it is the case for some heaters. And if it’s just a thermostat location issue, the cool device he showed at the end to just only send power to the heater based on an external thermostat would solve that problem
@@huckthatdish your comment in no way relates to what I'm saying. Totally out in left field. I'm having trouble trying to make sense of what you've just said and how in any way that relates to what I've just said?
We bought a space heater at a local store in Australia. The 2nd time we turned it on it went bang, lots of smoke and it tripped the fuse box. Took it back to the store and they said they had an exchange only policy so we got a new one. This one lasted three days before it blew up and shut down the fuse box. We took it back as well and finally, after a LOT of arguing, got our money back and went elsewhere. It's not just how much heat they give out, it's how safe they are.
I admire that you stuck with it and got them to relent in the end. When they tried to push back I would have wanted to ask them to put it in writing that if I took another one home and it damaged either my fuse box or caught my house on fire they agree to pay for all damages and any loss of life. 🤷♀
😮 wow! Isn't there anything like in the USA we have the UL
If it's listed as UL certified (most electronic things are) they will back the item up as safe. We had a satellite box smoke..we guess tiny fire inside. They sent us a postage pass box to ship ot to them. They wanted to investigate. Once the company who's brand nane is on the product, also wanted it, plus offered upgraded box on return. This was early days of the internet. It was nice or even going to go to a store. Lol, but that thing had scared me!! Like, what if I hadn't been home and smelled it? Brand new house too!!
@@nailsofinterestThat is very interesting! I didn't know that Underwriters Laboratories would do that. Do you have any other details of how the UL scenario worked out for you?
China
@@Cam-vz2zk Exactly!
I live in Queensland Australia, it's summer at the moment and much of the state is literally on fire and here I am watching and enjoying a video informing me about space heaters, if that isn't high praise for your videos I don't know what is.
@Jeremiah Rasing Brisbane, soon to be Bris-Vegas when the giant new Chinese casino is built.
Blake Pitcher I was surprised how beautiful Brisbane actually was. I’m from Sydney, but went there for a holiday recently, and absolutely loved it. Would definitely visit again.
Queensland has the best dogs.
@Roger Tickler no, Australian Cattle Dogs. The breed is nicknamed "Queensland heelers"
@Roger Tickler cant wait for the vote this october and vote the old sag out
If I manufactured 1,500-watt space heaters I'd market them as 2 horsepower.
wow thats one more horse then the competition. Definitely the better brand.
Go all the way: name your company "Horse Track Heating."
I would do them in calories!
Don't forget to put turn signals on them and sell blinker fluid
@@aarongreenfield9038 I'm going to make a space heater that will make you lose weight. Just shed that fat right off you. And you can have it for only a low low price of three payments of 99.99 shipping not included
They’re essentially short circuits with a fan behind them or something.
Well, more like a resistor with a fan behind it but I get the sentiment.
@@nickonastickable
@Gernot Schrader obviously you weren't actually trying
Csyk well its ac so...not really resistance, it would be impedance
@@Thebadbeaver9 👍🏽
Brilliant video, thank you very much! I am 55 and feel so grateful for such brilliant young people, when I encounter one, thanks again!
And that my friends is why I use a blow dryer to heat my house
lmao
why not....many of these are rated at 1500W...or more
Vacuuming works as well, they put off a fair amount of heat in a closed room.
Kimberlie Marie Box roomba ftw
A 1500watt blow drier?
There is something vaguely odd about this man, and I really appreciate that.
i think its bc he reads from a teleprompter
@@ijpg-fd7qn and he is digging in some conventional things really deep (except Lorentz law, seriously, we studied it at school)
Oh is that what you appreciate about him?
@@97marqedman It is not nearly the only thing I appreciate about his videos, but it certainly is icing on the cake.
نقطة نقطة Ok bro what the actual heck
All the waste heat from my servers is highly effective. One Pentium D processor will give those heaters a run for there money.
AND THE NOISE!!!
Forget the server for me. My PC with the door closed just watching these videos do a very effective job. I get the waste heat from both my TV and my PC tower and I can comfortably heat the room to a balmy 25 C and even higher if I decide to do a gaming session. Yay I love double duty items. Also though it takes a little longer with the efficiency of computer components now compared to when I was back in university (2006-2010) and watching videos all night with my AMD Athlon 64 computer.
I'm pretty sure my 830 turned my blue board brown from heat.
@@sarah1390 Is your cpu cooler properly seated?
My PC and monitor give off so much heat that I actually open my window during the winter so that it's not sweltering in here.
In Australia, with 240v available in the house, we see 2,000w space heaters sold as medium sized room heater.
Smaller room heaters may be rated at higher wattage, however their electrical design usually does not allow longer running at full capacity. Fast initial heating followed by thermostat limited heating.
Selling space heaters in Australia is like selling sand on the beach...
In Europe because of 220-240v we also have >= 2000w space heaters 👍
@@samhilton4173 You know that there are Skiing regions even in Australia? (I.e. Thredbo). Even in Sydney, Winter nights could go down to 5°C and with the houses having almost no to little insulation (and single glazing windows) you DO have some use of these as well (unless you have a reverse cycle Air-con, however some of them would not work well when it would get colder. I remember 1 night where it was actually freezing when I was in Sydney :-)
@@samhilton4173 my dude, unless you're in North QLD or Darwin, even the major cities drop below 0°C in the peak of winter 😂
I still wear shorts year-round in Sydney, though, but absolutely not in Canberra/Melbourne or Adelaide.
Let's not even talk about Tasmania.
In Tasmania you need still heat in the middle of summer at night, and its still bright at 8 pm, that place is wild
I used to work at a hardware store that sold a wide selection of space heaters. People would ask me to make a recommendation, and I'd always tell them to get an oil-filled heater and a cheap box fan. Steady, quiet heat evenly dispersed throughout the space.
And then when summer rolls around, Hey! - You've already got a box fan!
the oil heater sure, but how is the box fan quiet lmao
@@foojub6907 Don't be like that. On low setting, the fan is quiet enough.
@@danielpittman889 I will be like that. A box fan even on low is not quiet.
I couldn't agree more! I have tried every configuration available and your idea is the best
@@foojub6907 Perhaps you have not run a box fan on low. Or possibly yours is faulty. Mine is very quiet on low.
I've tried and tried to explain to my mother that they are all basically the same. Like talking to a wall. Everyone seems to fall for the advertising gimmicks.
It seems, that people are only willing to learn when they desire to learn something. Using my self as a example (A poor one, I know) but I have often been described as a brick wall when someone is trying to teach me something. On the flipped side, I *LOVE* watching 'educational' content (Often poorly researched and explained, but not always) and talking to people to learn information. It is an interesting dichotomy. It makes me wonder; is there is a method to encourage someone or people as a whole, to be willing to learn with a greater intensity, or have the desire more often?
@@HowardDPVT we study this stuff occasionally, in psychology, and there's loads of info in educational psychology
@@HowardDPVT This is why I'm a firm believer in teaching how to self-teach above anything else. If you learn how to self-teach, you will learn forever. Schools will NEVER do this because it goes against their whole existence. If everyone could self-teach, people would become extra aware of how bullshit formal education often unfortunately is.
School also hyper-focuses on teaching you impractical BS. As an analogy, they'd teach you everything about a wrench EXCEPT how to use it. *_Waste. Of. Time._*
I had a hell of a time convincing my fiancee that 1500W is 1500W, it doesn't matter if we buy the jumbo ultra fuck you big or the one that's the size of my shoe. The only difference is the size of the fan in it.
People are stupid. And that is what advertising relies on.
If more then 5-10% of actual smart people were around, we wouldn't get BLASTED with dumbfck comercials, because they'd instantly knew what is going on and the farytales were useless !
The last time I needed a space heater, I found out exactly what you just explained. I bought a small cheap one. Works just fine.
The problem I have with space heaters is their energy use! Prepare to spend 3x as much as running your furnace.
@@ceruleanc505 that's actually a good thing, can the energy source from your furnace converted to only light, or only movement?
Electricity is volatile, timewise hard to store and can replace all the other energy's easy... Fuel does not
@@ceruleanc505 EU now be like its 33% cheaper to use electricity instead of gas if you look at its price
@@captainheat2314 All Natural Gas users are up for extreme financial abuse starting now..
My boss regifted me a Handy Heater. I didn't even try it out, last winter. I figured it was just a waste of time. I saw it, in my closet last week and decided to see what it could do. I was totally amazed.
It's rated at only 400 watts. It fits, in the palm of your hand. It plugs directly into a wall outlet. It kept a drafty 14' x 20' room warm, (when it was 30°F outside). So much so, that it reached the pre-set 72°F, I had set it at, and turned itself off. I checked the wires, behind the outlet and they weren't even warm.
Must be made of 400 watts of pure unicorn magic lol. I have a 14x20 ish room and it takes a 2k watt 220v heater to keep it above 70F if its below 40F outside. When it drops down to the teens outside i have to crank it up to the 4k watt setting. Those dinky little pathetic heaters in the video you cant even tell they on if used. They aint even fit for a bathroom. Oil heaters are the worst junk ive ever used. The room the 220v heater is in isnt even drafty....not insulated the best most likely but not drafty at all.
@@jonpippen6998
I will admit; it significantly raised the electric bill.
Just play Crysis 3 on the highest settings on your pc, you ain't even gotta buy one of these.
Actually, after Crysis required too much from PCs, and only so many people could play those; the next two games were made increasingly softer for the machines they were released for.
In other words, they were released for machines made around the time the game came out, but not high end ones per say.
You know, to sell more games.
That’s still a thing?
That's how I survived a broken central heating for a week, just played lots of games.
@@rogerwilco2 I augmented my poor room heating by overclocking and gaming for few weeks too during winter
Used my PC for crypto mining and supplement heating around the time of the massive spike crypto had. Even on -20f days my room was a comfortable 64 degrees (I live in a colder climate, 64 is pretty cozy). There were times when it was in the 30s where I actually had to open my windows to keep my room from being too hot.
Funnily enough, during the crypto craze there were actually tiny houses for sale in the Netherlands heated solely by cryptominers. It was actually a fairly brilliant idea.
The fact that you personally put these informational topics together for teaching the laymen PLUS editing and extra learning along with it is just incredible to me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
They sent me off college, to gain a little knowledge. But all I wanted to do is learn how to score! Ask Jimmy Buffett.
I bought a space heater that had this safety feature. It would quit working if tipped over. Great, but the heater quit working after just a few months. So I took it apart to see what was wrong. That safety feature was a very simple relay that was normally on. Tipping it over would turn off the relay. The entire power of the heater went through this relay; which I consider a design flaw. The relay was so cheap and chintzy that regular use of the heater melted the relay down. Once I engineered my own relay - much beefier than the original, it worked again. That was 15 years ago and it's still in use every winter.
But because the manufacturer used a 50 cent part instead of a $1.50 part, the heater went from 15 year life cycle, to less than 4 months.
Next, I think you should go shopping for vacuums and explain to the world why vacs rated in amps is meaningless.
It was prob designed to fail
Engineered your own relay? That would thousands if done properly. I would just look at the specs of the old and buy an off the shelf better quality relay..(end sarcasm)💩
@@broderp It's cheaper to use 24Ga steel and a copper slug to replace the existing relay arms. All parts scrounged from my garage and given from a local metal fab shop. Cost to me: $0. Now go and try to spec a proprietary relay and buy your off the shelf replacement for $0 and let me know how that works out for ya.
It's a design decision to reduce liability and risk of litigation. If the relay fails and it tips over, it's better to let the heat melt it and cut off power. If the relay doesn't melt, then it might start a fire and burn the house down. It's a choice between having a product that fails prematurely and losing a few customers, or getting sued for millions because somebody died.
I had one that where you tip it over it stopped and also if it got too warm.
I took it apart and cleaned out the dust... Worked after that just fine.
1:51 I purchased an infrared quartz space heater in 2015. I had two elements like this one as shown in the video. The switch had single or double use. And he did the room with only having one of the elements energized. About three years ago the element that got most of the use slowly faded and stopped working. Happy I was to say that I could still use the second Setting and get a few more years from the element which was rarely used. This is the seventh winter I’ve loved having my space heater.
Basically "efficiency" for a space heater is the same thing as "inefficiency" for anything else.
The second law of thermodynamics wins again.
It always does...
Damn Laws!
Google peltierelement. You can get more heat energy per eletrical energy. It doesnt break the second law. But you can use the eletrical energy to move heat from a to b and thx to the second law all the work will end in heat. In some circumstances you can get 1,8 watt heat energy per 1 watt eletric energy
It's one reason why anything labeled "eco ____" gets put at the bottom of my list of things to buy: it's typically marketing over physics, arrived at by tinkering with evaluation metrics or... just flat out lying. And also, they tend to not last as long.
@@flinch622 For things like computer monitors, there's the "energy star" sticker on them. They usually refer to features that turn themselves off automatically if they haven't gotten used in a little while.
Who would win
Sleeping at 4 AM
vs
Watching an almost 20 minute long video on space heaters (while in the middle of summer)
Who needs sleeping anyway
At 4 am you've lost anyway.
omg you're me
I literally read this comment at 4 pm. So now I'm confused. I think I'll watch it again when I'm sitting at my desk at work at 4am tomorrow to keep me awake lol.
Perfect time to buy one, they're probably cheapest in summer
remember to also use an old thin extension cord to get even more heat out of the heater
Added bonus! The thin extension cord acts as a fuse!
And a 5w fuse.
@@Mrfort what is a 5w fuse?
@KevinT Creations ༼ つ ◕_◕ ༽つ YA Very Very True ッ ッ ッ
haha although that's humorous it's not true unless the extension cord catches on fire
The only thing I can think of is the smaller heaters are less suited to continuous duty. Although I have never had trouble with small fan heaters the elements do run hotter than large convection heaters of the same power rating. Imagine heating your room with a hair dryer. Same power but loud because the fan has to spin very fast to keep the small element cool. And it probably won't last as long.
Similar to "not for commercial use" appliances. My toaster would probably complain doing 100 slices of bread in a row and I'd have to give it a "cooling break". I'd have to buy two and let the other one sit if I was doing big hotel breakfasts with it.
This channel is great for the time of night when one would rather think about anything other than what normally clutters one's thoughts.
tell me about it
I didn't come here to be attacked wtf 😅
Like the heat death of the universe
Ah the intrusive thought fighter
Reading this at 3am while I should be sleeping and feeling a bit called out, thanks.
I've known these laws of thermodynamics for 45 yrs. I'm a retired journeyman who has done H.V.A.C . For 42 yrs as I went to school for HVAC . I'm so glad you took the effort and time to explain these physics ! I know I should have but only explained these concepts to all my friends . I laugh Everytime a commercial comes on saying a new invention has been created .Heat does not go away it just goes from a higher to a lower condition but is always in existence ! Again ,thank you for teaching these concepts to the public .
Maybe you can help me with this thought I had. Imagine you have two identical vehicles that weigh the same, and accelerate from 0-60 in the same time, however, one uses a small turbocharged engine and the other uses a big V8. Would they burn the same amount of fuel during that moment of acceleration?
@@mhess427 That is dependent on the engine efficiency. The net work done during acceleration is the same for both cars, but turbocharged engines are (usually) more efficient at extracting the chemical energy from fuel due to their cycles being less irreversible as they repurpose the kinetic energy of the exhaust gas as boundary work during compression (the most efficient processes are reversible processes but those are hypothetical processes that do not exist in real life just like ideal gasses.). Also, a big engine will have more internal friction than a smaller engine, adding to the fuel use.
@@mhess427 turbo engines are kind of unusual period as mentioned by the commenter before me they use the energy in the exhaust gases to compressor to force it into the combustion chamber. This increases the amount of air hence you require more fuel when you're in full Boost then you do when you're just cruising. Essentially the more boost use the more fuel you need to combust. There is a very strict fuel-air ratio in gasoline engines and no matter if the engine is turbocharged or not that fundamental ratio Remains the Same. So let's say you buy a turbocharged car and it's rated at 29 Mi to the gallon but you discover that you're only getting 24 miles to the gallon. The car is again brand new. The reason that you're not getting the rated mileage is that you have a heavy foot you're using too much throttle which is involving the turbocharger more so you need more fuel. Now I'm an older guy so I don't look to go as fast IDs precisely the speed limit no matter where I'm at. I've got a naturally heavy foot to be honest, so I put my cruise control on in most situations other than bumper-to-bumper traffic. I have 2019 Hyundai Elantra no turbocharger with dual clutch transmission. The EPA rating for the car is 37 miles per gallon. My style of driving around town which where I live could be up to 55 mph I get 38 miles to the gallon period and on the highway I get 42 miles per gallon. What I have noticed if I go 5 miles over 70 mph my gas mileage drops about 5 miles to the gallon. Essentially the way cars are tuned today by the automakers to meet EPA cab requirements their Peak efficiencies is going to be at 70 mph anyting over and efficiencies going to fall off dramatically. It also matters what gasoline you use. The argument that all gasoline is the same is halfway right. Refineries pump gasoline into pipelines to go all over the country. Once they go to the distribution points that's where they're combined with chemicals for each specific brand. Gasoline is one of the few things you can buy that you get exactly what you pay for period for example when I bought my 2019 Elantra I use shell regular gas. One day I was in a hurry and I went to a Wawa that was across the street and filled up. My gas mileage drop 25% within a few miles. I actually keep an eye on my gas mileage because that is your first indication that something may be wrong with your car. I know this is a very long reply and I hope you find it useful. My personal recommendation is Shell gasoline. I've been burning it in my car since 1983. And whenever I deviate from that I lose gas mileage. That is my personal experience driving probably in excess of 250 thousand miles to date.
"...and eventually this leads to the heat death of the universe"
woa, that got dark really fast
Let's just get all the small space heaters and throw them in space duh
Well it is pretty much ensured that humanity will be extict before that happens (because the sun will run out of energy, our galaxy will collide with another galaxy and eventually run out of energy) and it's predicted to happen in 10^100 years which means it's not something you should worry about :)
and cold
Yeah well just our sun burns 5 million tons of hydrogen or 3.8 x 10³³ ergs, every single second and we only get 0.01% of that so pretty sure your puny electric heater isn't going to do anything significant.
Heat death of the universe 🎉
That was way more interesting than I thought it was going to be. Well done you!
I live in a travel trailer in New Hampshire, and I have two heaters. One is a 1500W Lasko tall-and-skinny heater that oscillates. I picked this one because it has a remote control. I found a second one that is an oil-filled convective heater but is broken so that it's stuck on low and can't be turned off. I use the Lasko in the bedroom at night (nice to be able to control it without getting out of bed) and pull it into the kitchen during the day. I use the radiator when I'm away at work because it doesn't use much electricity and I just want to keep the inside of the trailer above freezing, which works well even in temperatures of 10 below. I have a fan that blows air through the fins and circulates the "warm" air very well. If it's really cold (25 below, yes I've seen it that cold) I'll run both heaters.
I've gone through a lot of heaters to see which one works the best (most are used that people give to me). I have a weather station that can also measure the inside temperature, and I can view the temperature graph on a web page. I take a heater and run it until the temperature levels out and then switch to a different one. After an hour, I can see if the inside temperature dropped, rose, or pretty much stay the same. If the temperature drops, that heater is toast. If it rises, the current heater gets replaced. Currently the oscillating Lasko is the best, keeping the temperature at least 10 degrees warmer than anything else I've tried. And no, I can't use a radiant heater because it would be a fire hazard in the small confines of the trailer.
One thing I have to do regardless of the heater is to place a fan near the ceiling aiming down. Heat rises so I have to push it down again to get a more even heating. In a house this isn't much of a problem, but in a travel trailer without an arctic package, it's a must. Back when I was stationed in the Army in Alaska, I had to work in a small shed to do weather balloon flights. The shed had an oil burning furnace and when running on 75 below days, it could get the air at the ceiling to about 150 degrees. Unfortunately, the air at the floor was below zero, and the air at desk height was barely above freezing. After I started working there, the engineer in me figured out a way to heat things up. I put a fan on the ceiling aiming down and the temperature became comfortable. Oil use in the heater went down substantially too. What once became the garbage job at that station became one of the best ones there.
Sorry for the large post. Thought you might find it interesting.
I just got a Lasko oscillating heater with a remote. Never heard of the brand before but I like it. The remote is super convenient
Lets look at the comments. Oh. They're 1500 watts.
WHat?
Heaters gonna heat!
1.5 killer whats
Yeah, in Europe the comments go up to 2.5kW.
@Ethan Ansell Calm down, Ethan. Christ.
I watch this channel every now and then and found this video while I was looking for a bigger space heater. I think I'll stick with my current "small room" 1500w unit Thank you for helping me save some cash.
Deadmeme64 You can't go bigger than 1500 watts in the US because of the feeble voltage. Plug two in one room and you're likely to trip the breaker.
@@spencerwilton5831 however, if you have a single plug on its own circuit, it can easily be changed to 240. :O
Refreshing honesty ! I love people like you.
I bought 4 ceramic heaters all rated the same 1500W that were not UL approved and had bad switches on them. The switches were steal springs with about a millionth on and inch copper coating on them. One was perfectly rusted over in an even coating of rust not copper.
Also the cords were 16-2 wire instead of 14-2 a fiery death trap. Yes I fixed them all.
Amazon was asking $170.00 for each recently ! I paid $70.00 each. After my Amazon review I could not find those heaters on Amazon. These heaters were knock offs of the original Pelonis disc heaters of which I still own one from the 1990's all metal well made and UL approved.
People should be aware of products made in foreign countries not made to certified quality standards.
Technically, if a motor is bad enough, it can be an electric resistive heater
"every machine is a smoke machine if you operate it wrong enough"
A very noisy heater!
Vacuum cleaners touting 'a powerful 10 Amp motor'.
A paperclip poked into an outlet will draw 20 Amps, thus is much more powerful.
Hilariously, unless you completely block the axle, efficiency is back in the formula as the host predicted, being "wasted" on rotational momentum.
@@lorenzoboyd6889 paperclip draws more current but not for long-
Thank you for putting quotes around "digital" on that heater.
I spent 25 years in equipment rental and have had this basic conversation a thousand times! Thanks!
I live in my car, and i bought an Ecoflow Wave 2 heat pump/ air conditioner(with the add on battery). It's the best purchase I've made in decades
Just get three 500-watt halogen work lights. Install them overhead.
Not only do you get heat, you also get quality lighting that feels like the summer sun 🌞
What if i have very sensitive eyes?
@@mindbreak666 then you get the added benefit of wearing glasses, it's a totally trendy fashion statement
@@theoledicktwist6247 call me when they sell shades you can use rolling in the couch/bed and general lazyman uses without it digging in your face...
Circadian rythm is overrated, i know, but doing nothing indoors is the best winter sport ever, and bright lights don't help much.
@@mindbreak666,
Google "goggles."
@@favoritemustard3542 i guess you don't rest on your side much
You present information in a way my ADHD brain seems to love
omg same
Only had to playback one time
SAME!
Ah, the club. Yes, one of the few tech channels where I don't need Methylphenidate to get through 20 minutes of video :D
Another club member checking in. Good times, good times.
I think he is ND himself because my autistic adhd brain loves him as well... just my thoughts on it anyway
It's been 4 years since you uploaded this, but I just watched it for the first time.
Truly an eye-opener. Thanks for the information!
The one advantage I found to the oil filled heaters, when I was living in a house that had been damaged by fire, gutted, and little no insulation, was that on cold nights I could toss my blanket over the heater and it helped to keep me warm. The surface temp got warm, very warm even, but never hot enough to actually catch anything on fire. (I of course would never suggest anyone do this, but. it worked for the very unique situation I was in at the time.)
For my daytime activities the forced air building up under my desk, and blowing across me was much more refreshing and warming.
When I was very poor one year and only had an oil filled heater, I sat on it most of the time.
When I was a kid, my Mom would put one of those oil heaters in the bathroom during the coldest months. I would get up every morning, turn the heater on, then throw my clothes for school over the heater before eating breakfast. It would make everything nice and toasty by the time I had to get ready for school.
Oh for sure. In that sense, they seem a bit safer. Also, you could say that that other heaters aren't necessarily quite 100% efficient but very close to it
The reason why I say that is because if it has a fan, you've lost a tiny amount to noise. If it has lighting you've lost a tiny amount to light. It's probably a bit pedantic to say that they're probably like 97 or 99% efficient which isn't something you'd notice ofc.
My personal preference is deffo oil filled radiators because of how the heat lingers after being turned off, and tbh being fairly safe in comparison to the other ones where they can instantly set alight if you're not careful
I’ll add; in a power outage the oil heater has a good bit of heat stored and the room will cool off much more slowly (hopefully in time for the power to get fixed 🤪).
@@waqasahmed939 won't light and noise be converted into heat anyways?
Can you expose the Printer Ink Scam next?
I have an HP printer that need a cartridge change twice a month. What a gyp!!
Get a Epson eco tank printer. You can print thousand upon thousands of pages without needing a refill. I went three years without needing a refill on ink.
Is it really a scam, or is it a marketing model? They lose money on the printers to make it up with the ink/toner.
@@stevelux9854
I often wondered about that ...
Correct me if I am wrong, but I have always got the impression that, long term, a planned maintenance contract for x equipment is often more valuable, and thus generally generates more revenue than buying x in, and of, itself, especially if, like most lazy people like me, whom has taken out domestic household appliance insurance, you don't think about chopping and changing your insurer that often, if at all.
So whilst decent printers are expensive, depending on how long they actually last, and depending how many ink cartridges you use (especially given their tiny volume ...), it doesn't take that long to wind up paying out as much in cartridges as you did for the initial printer ...
And just to make it worse, the cartridges that come with the printer are not always filled to capacity ... so buying a new printer everytime you need new cartridges is no longer as cost saving it once was ...
My understanding from a relative of mine that used to work at HP, is that HP sells printers at cost - that is at no profit or depending on the market at a slight loss; just so they can sell higher quantities of the ink, toner, supplies, parts, service and extended warranties which is where they make their real profit. HP is a big enough mover in the printer business where other manufacturers had to follow or their sales would take a massive hit.
Don't forget district heating. Very important in places where heating is no luxury item. It can use heat from power stations to heat homes.
Ooh, yes! I wish this were common in the States. Such a great way to capture what would otherwise be wasted.
I've never heard of district heating but it sounds pretty niffty for people who live close to power stations.
@@TechnologyConnections So what you call "district heating" is what we in Germany know as "Fernwärme" (lit. far (away) heat)? That's what warms me right now. We get a pipe of hot water into the house (and a flow-back pipe as well, it's strictly a closed circuit; and an enerhy-meter has temperature feelers into both pipes). It's produced by the city, though I'm not entirely certain in what kind of plant - anyway, safer than burning something locally, and presumably, more efficient, too. Outside, the pipes are below-ground and carry heavy insulation.
@@GaiaGoddessOfTheEarth District heating can distribute heat from any centralised heating source. Any thermal power station can be a heating source.
@@TechnologyConnections District heating is how i've lived over half of my life. It comes from the local chemical plant and research facilities using their waste heat from processes and energy production to warm up our houses. They do, sadly, have to fire up the small coal plant when it hits -25C but it is in quite short periods. I love it... It is stable, steady heat source and since the radiators line up every wall, usually below windows, the heat will spread nicely and evenly. I just happened to set up a thermometer in the ceiling level an hour ago (it was eBay package delivery day :) ) , it is showing 24C and my floor is 22.3C (i live on top of a bomb shelter, the vault below is quite cool all year round... another common feature in a Finnish apartment building..).
Many forget that you need to circulate air also in the winter time... One does not need a large fan for diffusing air, even a 120mm PC fan can do it if used strategically... Electric passive radiators are maybe the best but alone they tend to create that heat "bubble" and either are glowing red hot or are barely warm.
Thank you. As a retired HVAC design engineer, finally something about heating on TH-cam that actually makes sense!
The fact I can tell what stores you went to just based on the Sale tags tells me I worked in retail too long....
@tan j maz First was 100% Menards. Second was WalMart. Third I think was Target based on the "conveyable" decal that looks similar to others I've seen there. But it's the only one I'm not 100% sure on.
Menards, Walmart, and Ace. I wouldn't know the Home Depot tags.
You can always tell WalMart because they’re always out of everything you need. I don’t know how they stay in business.
Yep, first one was the ‘nards for sure
I like the calm “that’s actually a good idea” as he looks over the outlet thermostat. Very Wholesome.
I can't believe I sat through a fifteen minute video about space heaters. This was a lot easier to watch than I thought it would be.
An overlooked aspect concerns the multiple watt option. Multiple heaters on the same circuit breaker are problematic if all are 1500w. Older homes are impacted by this.
"...which leads to the heat death of the universe." {Party horn blows}!!
Hilarious!
agreed.
Ayye! How heat death of the universe gonna happen if we've got SPACE heaters?
TrolololololololoMan Can I use that? Please?
@@dewiz9596
Sure
This made my day 🤣
That is a fantastic play on words.
Checkmate universe!
I agree with everything stated with the exception of, " buy the cheapest." There's an argument that, more cheap ones have safety issues. Yet, there is no guarantee that a higher price equals better quality or safety. Research on quality and safety should be included in the purchase, not just the price.
All mainstream heaters must pass UL testing. Nothing to do with aesthetics or noise. Just safety.
That's why it is still up to the consumer to do some homework don't just grab the cheapest one or the most expensive one because you think one is better or they are the same it's still up to you to do the homework and find out why the more expensive one is better or is it least more expensive
@@cpcattin Yes they pass UL testing, but they don't necessarily have features that improve safety. My cheap space heater has no tip-over protection. So if it falls on its face, it'll keep running, blowing hot air directly at the carpet. The thermostat nob setting should prevent it from getting so hot as to catch fire, but still, not ideal.
I bought a solid, brand-name heater for 40€, when the cheap models starts at 20€. I was fully aware that the wattage was the only element when it comes to heat. And yet i think it was a good thing - i have no assurance its internal components are good, but chances are they are. It certainly feels more "solid" in my hands, more heavy and stable, with no noises when i shake it. I had it for over 5years now, still working flawlessly. Honestly, i think i made the right call.
Back in the days we used to have such in the bathroom. Great for warning it up before showering and help dry it up after. Nothing fancy and genius as these. Just a big orange glowing piece of metal in a damp proof package hung high up, against direct water contact.
I bought mine because it was a $60 digital thermostat heater that I got on sale for $10 in the spring. Plus it has a 750 watt mode so the circuit isn’t always loaded. I’ve also noticed the thermostat is also effected by humidity. I like a warm bathroom when I shower. The heater set at 86f/30c will never stop running with dry air. When showering and the humidity is 100%, it’ll cut off at 75ish. 🤔
Thats most likely because the humidity takes heat away from the heater faster since the air now has more mass and capacity for heat, so the internal thermostat never gets triggered.
@@willhaney96
This is because 86°F in dry air feels equivalent to 75°F in humid air.
Water is way more effective in heat transfer and dispersion. This is why we use ice cubes to cool drinks and water in car radiator to cool it down.
Dry air is very poor at heat transfer and dispersion. Think metal tin coffee cups or large ice chest. They have an air void in between that doesn't allow heat transfer to occur. This Will be even more effective if they create a empty vacuum in the air void.
@@Mrkevi123 Quick note, don't use water in your radiator, use coolant (aka "antifreeze"). It's water with additives that lower its freezing temperature (sure) and, as I understand it, resist electrolysis (somehow. I'm not a chemist, nor am I a particularly smart guy), rust, and increase the boiling point (which is already increased because your coolant system is under pressure, not unlike a pressure cooker).
Consider all of this information hearsay from an unreliable source
@@willhaney96 Humid air is actually less dense (look up the molar mass of air vs. water). The 3D water vapor molecules do have more heat capacity, specific and volumetric, than the diatomic oxygen and nitrogen molecules, but that means it takes more energy to heat up a volume of water vapor, or humid air, than dry air to a specified temperature.
@@Kungfujoe1110 use what your auto manufacture says to use. That's about 50% ethylene glycol and 50% water.
I love that you point out that the fan actually adds all its consumed power to the room as heat. I've always tried to point that out to people when they think that a fan "cools a room off" no, you're adding 20 watts of heat to the room, you're just assisting evaporative cooling and preventing warm air from your body heat from accumulating around your body by being in a breeze, but the room air will get warmer by adding fans.
It might increase heat loss through walls by mixing the air around
Interesting. So cooling the hundreds of watts of electric lights used to work on the inside of an aluminum fuselage on a wide body jet with hurricane fans ain’t gonna cool it down much, will it?
@@TimpBizkit Or achieve the opposite effect when it's hotter on the outside than inside. But it's probably immesurable anyways.
@@cme98 Unless your bedroom is made of aluminum or another heat conductive material, generates a lot more heat than the surrounding air, and the air being pushed around by the fans is circulated away from your heat generating, conductive room, no fans will not cool down your room.
@@cme98 Depends on if it's sucking in cooler air from the outside, exhausting the hot air to the outside, or just moving air around inside a sealed room.
I know you were trying to be an asshole with your comment, but ignorance doesn't really make you look good
"And eventually this leads to the heat death of the universe 🎉"
Haaaaaa. That's quality humor right there.
Also truth. I'm now existentially mortified.
Don't worry you won't be here by then. consider worrying about something that could actually happen like getting killed by stray bullets or lightning.
Nick C I know! I loved the reference 😂
Nick C yeah that was funny as hell
@aud_io What are you talking about. Heat death occurs once all the black holes have evaporated and there is only uniform dispersal of energy across the entire universe, work will be impossible (and there would be nothing to do the work anyway). Intelligent life will necessarily all be gone before heat death of the universe occurs, because an intelligent being is a big clump of energy.
I worked in IT at a large hospital system. Electric space heaters were illegal by City Code and hospital policy. There were many Nursing managers in office with cold feet. My solution was a private HP laser jet II old old printer. It was about 2000 watts with no power saving mode. My team laced it by their feet with the printer fan blowing hot air. Placing a power strip with off switch for when legs because too hot or when they went home.
Due to upgrades we had a few hundred of the old HP laser jet printer- heaters. In addition they could print confidential records with out going to the open group printer.
All space heaters are 100% efficient, but the pricing isn't differentiated on efficiency (despite some dubious marketing claims). Rather, it's differentiated on materials and build quality. That small heater isn't designed to run continuously and probably will burn out its heating elements if you try. The larger heater will have more robust components (in theory), which allow it to run a heavier duty cycle.
While this may make sense in theory, it's actually quite the opposite in practice. In the follow-up video, I compared a space heater like the little ceramic one to a "large room" oil-filled unit. The large unit would not run continuously, but the ceramic one was just fine doing so.
Keep in mind that the fan of the ceramic unit is effectively cooling itself all the time. It's not just for blowing air around :)
@@TechnologyConnections We also would have accepted "it's not just blowing hot air."
No heat engine in 100% efficient, period!
@@shikkonin Any energy conversion system/ process has an equivalent heat engine.
Else entropy would not have risen for every energy process.
@@anujmchitale Yea but the "work" a heater does is "increasing entropy" so to speak, and there is no resistance to increasing entropy. Thus it's 100% efficient at performing its work. You might just be making a semantic joke though. Not really sure~
This video got me thinking about a lesson plan that I wrote (1977ish), called "Introduction to DC & AC Electricity". The DC part only took one lecture and one lab. Once completed, students understood what current (I), voltage(E) and resistance(R) were and how to apply Ohms Law. The AC part took a couple of days. Understanding how DC and RMS AC voltages relate to each other, the math & etc..
It finished up with safety information about 12V car batteries and 3-wire 120 & 230 AC power.
By using simple analogies to water pressure and water flowing in pipes GPM etc, 'anyone' can understand current flow, voltage as potential (or pressure), fuses, loads, shorts, opens, off-on switches & etc. I believe that 7th graders could be taught these basics in about 1 week. (If they were given good handouts or video links in advance of the training, maybe only 3 days would be needed). More advance knowledge of AC isn't really needed for most users/consumers.
Anyways, I think it would be worthwhile for science teachers to up their game and teach some basic electricity classes that might save some of those kids a lot of money or maybe even their life someday.
Every winter people people die in fires that were started because someone didn't understand the limits of a 15A 120AC socket..
Been trying to tell this stuff to people for years, before seeing your vid. Glad to know someone pays attention to basic math, and thermal physics.
But not to physics on the electrical side.. If you take a 1500W PTC heating element force cooled and connected to 110V it pulls always the same wattage. If the fan fails it will burn itself that's why by design there's an overheat switch.
The wire wound type heaters go down on wattage after first few minutes even with cooling, so a 1500W element might pull less under operation!!
If you buy the wire wound self regulating heater element with 1500w from China you will notice that it pulls 4000W and more on start up, like a dead short until it reaches a higher temperature and resistance rises to stop current flow..thus less power draw and radiation of heat into the room.
Force cooling needs to be extreme high pressure and volume on wire wound resistive to reach the efficiency of the dense PTC elements with same wattage, radiant constant power wise
I use a space heater and an oil filled radiator, the space heater heats the space then the oil filled heater silently takes over, Which is much better when using nighttime tariffs.
I can attest to a tiny 1500w heater being capable of heating a large room. in fact i have to turn it off after a couple hours as the room gets too hot.
You should lower the temp setting., you know...
me too, in fact I have the smallest version that costs 24.99 (ceramic) and it heats a high-ceiling ~800sq/ft room so well that after a few hours if I dont open the window a crack it gets too hot.
808v1 huh? Why open the window? Those heaters should all have thermostats.
@@JuddMan03 I've owned a few super cheap ones that didn't. and a few more that did, but their Thermostats had two settings Arctic Seawater and Mordor.
JudMan:
Because electricity is inclusive for my unit and I have the thermostat cranked full all the time...shamefully conservation is not high on my list
Bringing me back to my days in the Home Depot electrical department... Great job; saving people from themselves, one customer at a time.
While I do understand that everything is Built In China now, there are levels of build quality to cost out as well. As a industrial electrician I have taken many of these little heaters apart in order to try to save them once they failed. The cheap $12 units use 1500 watt. The more expensive units... 1500 watt. That's true. But I have seen cheap tip-over switches that are a plastic pogo switch to bit of steel to spring steel . No arc quenching, no encapsulation on a 10 to 15 amp switching circuit! That is scary! Under rated AWG to mains or heating grid. Grounding missing. No strain relief on mains power. Heating grid with hot spot heating and no nickle/cobalt in the grid. Yes, I have seen so called "top" quality expensive units built like shit as well. I have also taken apart quality units that are still 1500 watt that have never failed just to look. Why the cost? Rockford Microswitch tip over, perfectly loomed wiring, matched copper throughout, double insulated. Are they cheap. No. Do they put out any more heat than any other 1500 watt heater. No. Am I more confident of having one of the highest Full Load Amp (FLA) devices I could possibly own sitting on the carpet in my home? You bet your ass I am.
Why I replaced every standard receptacle as GFCI.
Problem is price =/= quality. Some nsme-brand $90 units are component level clones of $20 brands.
It's almost like buying speakers or headphones, the quality is going to vary a lot, price doesn't equal quality, and its basically impossible to know what you are getting unless you tear it apart, or have someone else do it (aka read reviews). Plenty of brands are just going to charge more for name renegotiation or the look. Just like speakers or headphones, I'll just buy the cheapest heater with 100's of positive reviews, unless I'm looking for something specific.
I was wondering about durability. I don't doubt that each unit is equally efficient at performing its task, however, it seems like if you've got a large room to heat that the heater is likely to be on for longer periods of time than a small room heater would be.
@@TheNiteNinja19 That's overkill, you're probably better off just doing that in the wet areas like the bathroom or kitchen and using GFI breaker on the entire circuit for the other areas.
The other areas are much less likely to ever trip and you can save a bit of money and inconvenience by putting that all in the breaker box.
I have an old fashioned space heater. A wood stove. It's 200% efficient because the wood warms you twice. Once when you cut it, and once when you burn it.
One winter you preapare wood for heating, next winter you use that wood for heating. 👍
Love that; Burn some calories then burn some wood.
Why ia youe wood not cut during the fall?
I used to keep 6 years cut and stacked
Wood burning stoves are glorious.
Oh my goodness an outlet thermostat. I've thought this for years having a basement bedroom and dealing with heaters for ever. Thanx.
he made that company a lot of money
@@Raeilgunne ironically the best product shown in this video has 0 marketing and none of us know about it.
I have used an outlet thermostat in my greenhouse for years. It's great.
@@Raeilgunne Thank you for not saying _alot_ of money, as Alot is a town in India.
My space heater also plays Minecraft and Mines Bitcoin.
Lol
AMD?
That is how I described my 55" plasma screen. Very reliable, but it generated a lot.Of heat. Cat loved it during the winter.
Ewwww bitcoin.
Thanks for fucking over the computer component market just so you can get richer.
I hope your profits tank more than they have been and you are left with nothing.
I bet its heat output is a fraction of 1500 W.
The one thing I took away from this video: How many hairdryers do I need to heat a small room and what brand do you recommend? Hahaha!
Just one does the trick. The Ferrari one is pretty fast.
for how many minutes ?
@@devforfun5618 At what temperature?
Really, that's what you took away from this video..............
I mean i'm just thinking if they are made for 1500W then surely you can do a tweak to get more an extra 1800W out of it............
@@johndorian4078 You can't tweak more resistance from a heating coil, you can only bump voltage up to increase wattage. So unless you're running it from a generator that has a voltage drop adjustment, or feel like entirely replacing the heating coil with something homemade from several salvage heaters, there is no tweaking to be had.
Well in the USA a 110v socket is often limited to 15A, and in that case 1500watts has already used up the circuit in question. You'll flip a breaker if you draw more.
Marketing dept is just another name for professional lying dept.
not really.... Most are truthful but they are paid to word things to attract buyers. Clever or engaging wording does not equal lying. This however does not make sense. That said none are a lie, they are all 1500 watts. They can not be sold unless tested and UL listed.
Depends on the country, in mine they aren’t allowed to lie in any way, or attack another brand.
@@JwilliamsAssociates : Underwriters Laboratory (UL) is a joke. Much like Chambers of Commerce or Economic Development groups; these organizations charge membership fees for inclusion in their listing and use of their logos (UL® listed!) on product packaging, or business instruments like signage or advertising. I'd trust Consumer Reports (CR) before UL, because CR actually conducts product tests and publishes the results untarnished by paid bias.
Anyone else remember the ads in various men’s magazines in the 60’s and early 70’s that pushed ‘sexual aids/stimulants’? Get your Spurious Spanish Fly! How many bothered to look up the word spurious?
@@glenndespres5317 : Ain't it curious that it was spurious; why wud the guy need spanish fly; if he can't please her, don't bother to tease her!
I learned about this the hard way as a result of some malicious false advice from my [now former] landlord when I first moved out of my parent's place. Our agreement involved me being responsible for the electric bill but they would cover the gas bill. When winter rolled around they advised me to use a space heater because it would be "more efficient" to only heat the room I was sleeping in at night rather than heating the whole place. When the $600+ electric bill showed up I was floored because as far as I knew I was doing the more "efficient" method of heating! A few conversations later I found out what had happened and got into a fight with my landlord.
The TL;DR was that my landlord more or less lied to my face to save a few bucks on the gas bill. Literally the better solution is to just have your tenants foot the gas bill! That one MONTH cost me more than triple what an entire year of gas would have cost me!
lol how gullible you must have been
@@Progan666 Ah yes a crucial piece of info I left out. The landlord was my uncle.
What a shitty Landlord...
You're still an idiot for not knowing how to calculate cost of electricity.
@@GabeSweetMan Your own uncle did that to you?? Did he help cover any of the $600? That's so awful, I'm sorry
Why so many dislikes? Lol. Must be Space heater manufacturers.
Probably because it's wrong misleading information 100% without a doubt hands down you don't even need to do any kind of testing hook up a small one for an hour in a room with a big one for now in the room you tell me what's cheaper and what works better
He doesn't take into account the size of the fan that's moving the heated air, that's why.
It’s because he’s making some basic mistakes, he’s done a very small amount of homework, and misrepresenting/misunderstanding what a BTU really is, he’s also not shown how each unit uses the watts to turn into heat, they are different and giving out heat in different ways. For efficiency- the small fan unit is best suited to a small room, the convector is best suited to a medium room as an oil filled radiator is better suited to larger rooms even while using the same amount of watts. His misunderstanding of what BTU ‘s are and how they are used to calculate temperature is his downfall. Anyone who has experience installing or fitting heating solutions will probably give a thumbs down, and that probably 1in 40 viewers. The like/dislike ratio is probably very accurate.
As for his disdain at how ‘all of the heaters use the same amount of electricity and therefore must give out the same a amount of heat, and that these are 100% efficient’ clearly shows his lack of understanding at how each unit uses electricity, along With a basic lack of understanding of physics. Just because they are heaters it doesn’t mean they use the supply in the same way. Imagine 2 light bulbs, one LED and one incandescent, just because they both take electricity and turn it into light doesn’t mean they both use the electricity in the same way and therefore should give out the same light and there must be a conspiracy somewhere. Indeed1500w is chosen as a simple, clear, safe wattage and the device is built to stay within those tolerances, the low efficient fan heater uses electricity to produce heat quickly and gets so hot over such a small area that a fan is employed to push the heat out, the convection heater has larger heating plates or coils and therefore produces less ambient heat but over a larger area and therefore is more efficient using convection.
Some people understand that the printed maximum wattage rating is not the same thing as the actual BTUs a device can continuously produce. If he'd bother to do even a basic experiment he would immediately learn that his theory is missing a few relevant facts.
Or….. this video [somehow] managed to offend one of our precious neurotics we have today in society. Triggered by space heaters because it's not fair the haves aren't sharing their heat with the downtrodden and disenfranchised have-nots.
Hello - I have used space heaters as a “supplement” to central heating (gas) much as you describe, for many years, under the premise that I will only be in one room at a time for extended periods. Usually in my bedroom at night, but in the last few years I have expanded this to include my living room, and my den when I am working from home. My electric cost does rise dramatically, and my gas bill seems still relatively high. The space heaters also work much more slowly, and are generally not as effective in “large” rooms.
Last year I went a step further and plugged each of the space heaters into heavy-duty (15A) smart plugs. With this setup, I can set up routines to ensure I don’t forget to turn off a space heater in a room I will not I occupy. I can also set routines to turn on space heaters in rooms I do expect to occupy, before actually doing so, to try to “preheat” the room. (In the summer I do this with fans to help circulate cooler air.)
I later went a step further when I found wifi-enabled thermometers; with this I can set them away from the heater, and set up routines to turn the heater on/off based on trigger temperatures.
I have yet to set up my space heaters for this winter because I had seen so much increase in electricity usage, but I can also track it daily using my electric utility company’s app. The gas company does not provide usage info until after the billing period.
I was hoping someone might have a comparison of heat provided per unit of either gas (in mcf), and electric (in Watts), so that a cost comparison could be made.
Do you have any examples of how low you can reasonably set your central heating thermostat, that space heaters will still be effective?
I have 4 Tee shirts under two sweatshirts and have two woolly hats on - warm as toast with no space heaters If I am sitting, I put a fleece throw over my gnarly ancient knees all pretty easy really ;
I only heated my house with the central unit which works with gas. And never thought to use a space heater because electricity is more expensive. Now, I switched to a provider who offers free nights of electricity and delivery from 9pm to 7am, but more expensive days. So I'm trying to find out if I can use an electrical space heater at night without risk of burning my house.
Resistive electric heat is usually 3x the price per "BTU" compared to gas. Or about the same price as oil heat.
@@AdmitthatijustdiditX if you get a tariff deal like peacefrog0521, it makes financial sense to use free night time electric in resistive heating and heat battery storage. Can probably still get the old night storage radiators, but pretty simple to make one. As the daytime price is higher, it pays to get as much done at night - set immersion heaters, washing machines, dishwashers etc on timers to run late evening or at night.
Why don’t you just wear a self-contained bubble suit ? !!
WHAT?! Marketing departments are dishonest?
More on this at 11.
@@Metroid4ever
More on this at 23 : 00.
12-hour time is so outdated. Why do we even use it anymore? It never was practical.
No. This guy has no concept of thermodynamics.... he even says at the end of the video that "the surface of these baseboard heaters gets much hotter"...... if his point is that both heaters put out the same heat because they are 1500 watt then he just made his own point moot.
@@justinray582 I think that has to do with surface. A conventional radiator or that oil filled heater can release heat on a big surface. If you have a smaller surface like a wire that heats up it has to be at a much higher temperature to release the same amount of heat because it has a lot smaller surface. Think of an incandescent lightbulb. It doesn't release nearly as much energy as an heater yet its wire is hot enough to melt metal, because it's very small.
I'm no expert so I could be wrong
@@santnox7559 does it really matter? If the surface is hotter then that means the machine is letting more heat out of the heater then another. Even though they are the same wattage.
We were living in a trilevel home and I did a two experiment. We had gas furnace central heating and during this two year experiment, I used ceramic heaters with each room having it's own thermostat to control that room's heat and the net result was there was no difference in the cost of heating our house between gas or electric heaters. We had a separate gas and electric supplier.
The savings rises from only heating occupied spaces, not each and every unoccupied room.
@@MoSportsUSA Way to let someone know their experiment was dumb without telling them their experiment was dumb. 😂😂😂
Dude, I absolutely love what you do. Informative, meticulous, and FUNNY. Thanks so much for the knowledge and laughs. You're a treasure. Cheers!
Overall a nice and well explained video. However, I want to point out a few things:
1. Efficiency in converting electricity to heat is one thing but efficiency to make you feel warm is another. Our body doesn't perceive temperature objectively but rather based on how much energy it (our body) gains or loses. So although an oil heater without a fan and a ceramic heater with a fan might both convert the same amount of energy into heat, the latter might make you feel warmer faster especially if you direct the fan towards you, resulting in perhaps setting it to a lower setting.
2. In a well insulated space, both a small and a big heater might have the same result (provided they are both 1500W). But in a less insulated room, it matters to pump in heat faster than it is lost through the insulation. And again, the purpose of these is to make humans feel warm. So, the ones that distribute the heat faster and more evenly at lower parts of the room (ie closer to your body and not the ceiling) will probably be more efficient in a less insulated room.
Thank you, I thought this would be obvious to anyone thinking this through one step further - if you pump 1500 watts into air with a little tiny fan you're going to get a HOT ceiling and a cold floor. If you distribute it better with a bigger fan (or mix it in the room, with a ceiling fan etc) the overall room will feel warmer. And you might have somewhat less heat loss through the ceiling or convecting into other rooms
Given a fixed input Wattage, the physical size of the unit affects the need for forced air. A smaller heater which would require a fan would not take up as much space in a smaller room, which is _perhaps_ why they suggest room sizes. The need for forced air is also likely not just for safey, but based on the average egress air temperature , which, if too high, might result in excessive air stratification.
For example, if you took a small heater and removed the fan and removed the housing so that nothing melted (and altered it somehow so that the PTC didn't affect the input Wattage), then sat next to that in a room versus either a physically larger unit or smaller one with a fan, it is likely that you would not feel the heat as much (excluding radiant) unless there was other circulation in the room to help mix the air.
So, I'm guessing the manufacturers thus want the consumer to make the trade-off for noise versus size taken by the product, based on the room size.
"Please leave your complaints below." This man TH-cams.
Watching a year late - great info!
It boosts engagement, doncha know.
NVidia GPUs and Intel CPUs make good substitutes for space heaters.
As a Canadian, AMD works better, I can actually feel radiant heat coming off my Ryzen.
@@erikpark Nahh you need a Bulldozer. Ryzen has nothing on Bulldozer and Netburst.
Ayy
You need a FX 9590 and a R9 295x2 or two.
Nah. 4 socket 3.0 ghz netburst system with 4-8 r9 295x2's