@@michaelreynolds1904 I figured it out. When you go to it on the site it will have a small little green clip which takes you to the site to purchase the raffles
Really looking forward to the end result and we're ecstatic that you figured out a way to benefit a great charity. We hope the new owner will appreciate the car as much as our family did and we’re very happy that our last chapter with this car will have positive outcomes for everyone involved!
The story of this car is great. I know for a FACT that German car factories also did similar things like renting(!) a brandnew Tesla S and reverse engineering it completely, then reassemble it and returning it to the rental car company. As if it never happened. So it's plausible that Volvo did the same with that e39. Maybe they wanted the info for the engine/ECU development for the S60/V70?
👍 My 3 year old went through fetal surgery for Spina Bifida, allowing him to walk on his own now with a prior prognosis of being paralyzed waste down. Awesome cause your are supporting. You have my entry and my wife has shared it on a private spina bifida page for more traffic!
@Samcrac, The easiest way to get the bolts out is to get a well charged 12V battery, and a set of really heavy jumper cables. 1. Undo the ground cables off the engine. 2. Attach the jumper cables to the battery regularly. 3. Attach the negative of the 'car' end to the motor close to where the bolt you're trying to remove is located, but not to any mating surfaces as they can get marred. 4. Place the positive of the 'car' end of the jumper cables onto the bolt. Hold till it gets really hot. The bolt will get white hot if you let it. This is preferred. 5. While the bolt is still really hot, place a candle (any kind really, I use almost burnt up birthday candles) onto the stud as close to where it threads in as possible. 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 2-3 more times. 7. Let cool. 8. When cool, work the stud back and forth a bit with vice grips. You'll feel it free up, then turn it out a bit more till it binds a bit again, and then work it back and forth some more. You should be able to spin it out pretty quickly after it frees up one turn. 9. Do the next one. 10. When all the bolts are out, crack a wobbly pop, and raise a toast not having to machine an engine inside the car. The electricity breaks down the galvanic corrosion that's holding those bolts in, and frees them up. The heat expands the bolt more than the housing, causing the bolt to compress in the hot state, them shrink as it cools. I did that after I broke 3 trans pan bolts on grandma's car. Everyone of them came out really easily after that. It's a lot harder to read/write than to actually do.
Alternating torch to heat the stud and surrounding material, then dry ice on the stud to shrink it down. Try to turn out the stud. Repeat until success or resigned to drilling.
Bolt extraction: take a fullt charged car battery, connect the + to the stud the - to the block. Let the stud get red hot, i mean glowing hot, disconnect the battery, take a vice grip and it will come right out. I use this trick for broken of exhaust manifold bolts. Same problem, steel bolt aluminium block.
I just sold my 2002 530i 5-speed, what a great car. I still have a 1998 540i Stick, two 2000 528i’s (one auto one stick), and an 02 M5. The E39 is a phenomenal car, I’ve had like 20 of them at least. Glad they’re finally getting the respect they deserve but seeing that BaT listing makes me regret selling my 02 530i
Btw Sam the shift detent internal to the transmission is stuck, that’s why it’s defaulting to 5th if you push it forward from Neutral. The slop is of course from the shift bushings. *edit* just got to that part lol
@@robertperillo8738 i was so suprised seeing a e39 sell for 18 grand, prob some fool that didnt know how much their actualy worth, 18 grand gets you a m5 in decent condition off facebook marketplace. just amazes me how much someone actually payed for that 5 series non m. if you sold your e39 530 for around 5-8k you pretty much got what its worth, doesent go for any higher unless it has less then 50k miles with one previous owner history.
@@BmwMe-uh9sy it was very clean, 70k miles iirc that’s why it did so well but still 18k is insane. At least for now, but hey it’s where they’re headed. Look at E34s and E28s before it, super clean ones are high teens. And with the crazy inflation that’s been going on the last few months unfortunately I feel the days of sub 20k E39 M5s are just about over, unless it’s a high mileage one with issues. They’re slowly becoming unobtainable - E46s are creeping up now too. Hoard them while you can!
If the bolts are aluminum like you said, using heat is counter productive. Aluminum expands faster then steel. You could use liquid nitrogen or dry ice to cool down the bolt, spray more penetrant, and they should extract a little easier
When you go to look at a used car from a private seller, you hope and pray the entire drive over that he’s cool and meticulous about his toys like Alex is. 🤘🏻
what? except the car was full of water in the side, couldn't get into third and had holes drilled all over the engine bay? I'd be walking when i heard water.
@@twatmunro9563 the point being "meticulous about his toys" is not a statement I would apply to a guy who doesn't care that it won't change gear and is full of water.
Heat - Heat - Heat. Corrosion by two different metals is the culprit. Make sure you use never-seize on the bolts going back in. On the broken bolts. Make sure you drill straight. Would not use heli-coils but use the time sert. We use them on military tactical vehicles!!!
Drill a hole down the middle of the bolt, then inject liquid nitrogen into the hole, this will freeze the bolt and shrink it down, if you can't get your hands on liquid nitrogen, then liquid butane (like from lighter recharge bottles) works pretty good as well, just make sure you do it in a well ventilated area and keep flames away, less you extract the bolt with a fireball.
Broken bolts - heat the shank to a high level, induction heaters are good for this; weld a nut on the end (or a bar like an old bolt at right angles). Gently tap it one way, then the other until it starts to move - do not use sheer force. If necessary use more heat then let it cool and so on until it breaks the corrosion bond. It will come out but patience is key. To my way of thinking saving the original thread is better than drilling/heli coiling which will not be accurate if done in situ.
@@Mitchell.Is.De.Naam. they are all around like camrys in the states. Not a manual but autos go from like $1500 to 3k. Good condition $5k. M3s like 15/20 for a super mint one
Just weld a nut onto the stud , there’s plenty of stud left ... and the heat from welding it will make it free from the expanding ! How does everyone not know this already??
I bought a new 2001 E39 530 sport, manual transmission, the first year they came out. Mine was Orient Blue, grey interior. Options were comfort seats, and rear window shades. I got my 530 the first year the new 3.0 liter engine came out. My wife had a 2000 528 sport, with a manual transmission. Sold my 530 around 2008, I needed more room, so I got a Volvo V70R. It was just an awesome car, super smooth ride but cornered great. Great to see another 530 after so many years!
Good video and it’s good that it’s going towards a good cause. As far as the $20k evaluation, I think that’s very wishful thinking. That car is worth $7k at best to the right bmw enthusiast but to the average person probably more like $4-5k.
My 2 cents on removing the stuck studs. Being from Minnesota, where we have major rust, I would start by spraying it with pb blaster or home made rust penetrant. Reapply often for several days if possible, or at least overnight. Try to remove but be careful not to break. I like impacts, but be careful not to give it to much if you have a high torque impact. Next heat. Studs almost red hot an slow to cool. The heat and the cooling will free some of the rust. Be careful not to apply to mush heat to the aluminum housings. Multiple cycles of heat and penetrant if needed. Next step is a high torque impact. The impact will work better than a breaker bar in freeing the stuck stud. Now if you break a stud. Carbide bits for Dremel or drills works best on harden steel. You can use a bolt with a hole drilled in the center of it if the stud breaks off deep in the hole as a guide to not damage a hole.
Broken/Seized Bolts Tip - Heat and wax. If you heat the area in the housing around the broken bolt and then press a crayon or candle to the treads the heat will pull the wax into the treads and with your extractor it should come out easily. This works like a champ with rusty nuts and bolts. I haven’t tried it with aluminum bolts seized in an iron block but it’s easy enough to try.
Amazing car. I had a 530i SE Manual (in the UK). I bought it at 6 yrs old with 120k miles on the clock, for £3500 and sold it for £2500 a year later. Silky smooth engine and built like a tank. Wish i'd kept it. Enjoy!
Awesome! I got to donate to a wonderful cause.. 100% that is great.. I sometimes think - you is a good guy - Samcrac! LOL!... BTW, if I'm the fortunate one, I will keep it as original as I get it... very interesting story behind this car. Looking forward to the rest of the build.
E39 Owner, that much water is getting in from above. Vapour barriers in the doors are notorious for leaking and the water tracks onto the tread plate area (where you have the Door Sill Protectors) where water gets into those sills(UK)/Rockers(US) and with the way the water tracks it fills the foot wells up with water too. I actually did a video as I kept getting water in those areas to see how it tracked, the rear doors are more than likely the culprit.
E39 Owner, 530i, 5 speed, sport package; what you said is so true. One of my door cards in the rear became soft due to this issue. Seal the barrier properly and all should be good.
Amazing video and excited, but please please please don’t helicoil, you could tap it and make inserts that are 10x more reliable than helicoils. When you go to take that trans out again after using helicoils it is going to be a doosey and you’re prob gonna have to tap and insert new threads anyways
I like the previous owner coming in to watch. Kind of like "this old car" where someone comes in and fixes problems they've been struggling with. You should do more videos like that where you help people diagnose their inexplicable car problems.
Alex , seems like a really nice guy , I’d really like to the whole story about the car and what it went through at Volvo , love this 5 series my favorite body style
Its probably a made up story, why on earth would they IMPORT that car from the US to Sweden just to "analyze emissions". There are plenty of those kind of cars in Sweden.. no need to import one.
If you want a e39 with a manual, no sunroof. I can ship as many as you want. Europe is flooded with them. How many you want? It's 5k usd shipped to the usa.
Weld on a nut, for the flush broken studs use a center punch-drill 1/16 no more than 3/16 depth a washer bigger than the bolt. A nut same size or equal to it and tack it in let cool finish welding the hole to nut. Old school tricks I've learned done it many times on intake and exhaust studs and there's a few TH-cam videos of old timers doing this trick also
Heat stud and use your tool to extract. If it snaps then progressively drill out bolt to point of most of bolt gone. Use a good pick or screw driver to remove what is left. Chase with correct size tap. I had to do this hundreds of times while removing broken off exhaust studs on Jeep exhaust manifold recalls. The factory was very generous with allowing all of .3ths of a hour to do this. Most of the time it was the rear bolt near the firewall!
You can do a plethora of things. An old shop trick my mentor taught me for stripped studs/bolts was put a grinder to the top and make it a deep, straight line. From there use a tool with the proper attachment (impact and I’ve seen him use an air tool) and the stud/bolt will come out. Otherwise, flatten either side on the top of the stud so you get 2 flat places to put vice grips on. Heat + vice grips + some cursing while tugging at it should do the trick. The trick in the first place was to slightly lift the trans and use some ATF+acetone the bolts
Use an induction heater on the broken bolts and then pipe wrench as the harder you turn it the tighter it grips (we often call them Stilson wrenches over here in the UK). Or weld on a nut if there is thread as the heat from welding helps break the corrosion and the nut can turn the bolt.
Cleaning the snapped off bolt up really well, and then welding a nut onto it serves two purposes: 1) Get's a good amount of heat into the bolt to help un-seize it from the aluminium casting 2) Gives a good grip to get a socket and ratchet/breaker bar on to loosen it
The Volvo story sounds pretty credible. Volvo currently have the only registered Tesla Model Y in Sweden at the moment (it's not sold in Europe yet), for exactly that purpose.
ARP Studs for install. Usually I hit the head of bolt with a hammer some to shock it, and possibly break any corrosion, then turn it to remove. Heat also has always been the stand by.
Ill be spending $680 tonight on 48 raffle tickets. Definitely love this car and want to see it go to a good home. And I'll donate to ant good cause to be able to drive this
Hi Sam, What lubricant did you use? Try PB Blaster and let it sit. When the bolt begins to move, tighten it slightly then loosen it again. PB Blaster again and let sit a few minutes, then tighten and loosen again. Repeat until the bolt starts to remove easier - go slow, and maybe PB Blaster a few more times while removing. Of course heat works wonders. BTW, You might want to put some light oil or WD40 down the window openings to help protect where the water accumulated. Drain the light oil and reinstall the plugs. Regards,
I have always good good luck heating the bolt and welding a bigger nut onto the bolt, the heat form welding will heat the bolt up and the bigger nut gives you more torque
Use the Welded nut onto the stud (whatever is left of it) and give it a turn back and forth and see if it will loosen up. I have had good success with stuck bolts using this method - it works better with steel bolt stuck in cast aluminum than steel bolt stuck in cast iron.
Heat then quench with atf repeat a few times. You can spray penitent before the next heat cycle the heat will draw it in before burning it off clearing the path for atf to reach deeper.
Heat the case with a torch and cool the shank with the liquid from canned air duster (Use a bit of tin foil or paper to direct the liquid to cool only the shank). Use a pipe wrench or some other positive grip wrench.
Heat is the easiest if possible. You may have to shield areas from flame. Use oxy-acetylene torch. Much hotter. But don't melt aluminum. The stud extractors work great, but when threads are galled you need to turn it back and forth. Weld a nut to the stud. Let it cool off before turning. Then apply the heat to the threaded area. Good luck and God Bless!
Complete CCV replacements are common necessities of maintanance repait. Use qualitt parts is my suggestion. Also a general coolant system refresh to inclyde some of the plastic coolant parts. Also normal maintanance repairs. There will be upto 5 areas of the secondary air pump syste of which any 1 to all 5 areas of that system. Also normal. Valve cover and gasket replacement or if lucky, atleast the gasket set. When you replace the CCV system, do it with the intake off. While it is off, clean the oil dip stick tube completly as it will have moisture (water) mixed in the oil. Also normal. Oh... Don't forget to verify the DISA valve is fully functional while you have it out.
Good job Sam and kudos to Alex for donating that car. I hope it goes to someone who appreciates and takes care of it. Sam, instead of trying to get those broken bolts out, get a set of helicoils and drill every one of them out and install the helicoils in every hole. Use conventional hex head bolts with antisieze and the new owner won't have the same nightmare when it comes time for the next clutch change. You might have to enlarge a hole or two in the bellhousing if any of the bolt holes aren't drilled exactly true.
A e39 Was the first car i bought, the best car i ever owned, allways worked Was great to drive comfortable and sporty and looks that still turn my head after years and years
18000$ or 20000$ for an old e39 😂🤣,maybe 1500€ to a full spec M5 e39 10000€ but the price you say made me 🤪😜😅🤣,that 3 series is more expensive but still not 18-20k ...
HUGE THANKS to Alex! One of the most generous guys in the world! If you want a shot at winning this Rare E39 Enter HERE: bit.ly/3vBq6N7
So just by donating your entered??
@@blockpartyvintage1568 I don't find a link to purchase anything either.
@@michaelreynolds1904 I figured it out. When you go to it on the site it will have a small little green clip which takes you to the site to purchase the raffles
i8 is your dreamcar? Your funny.🤣
Really looking forward to the end result and we're ecstatic that you figured out a way to benefit a great charity. We hope the new owner will appreciate the car as much as our family did and we’re very happy that our last chapter with this car will have positive outcomes for everyone involved!
A free E39, transmission issues, and a charity giveaway? Count us in, we've got your back. Parts should be there soon Sam! 🤘🏻
You guys are great for supporting such a worthy cause 🤘🏻
🔥🔥
FCP Euro, we have your back, too! Thanks for supporting!!!
Heck yea FCP!!! You guys are the realest. Glad to say I support such an awesome business!
My Guyzzz!! Thank you so much
that guy Alex is a solid dude. Gives away his car and then goes and helps to work on it afterward.
He's not a solid guy, just a stupid
@@KWCMNY the only stupid here is you, f*ck face, because you think like this!! Go back to your cave, here is full of people!
His wife preferred a manual transmission. He married the right one. Awesome find!
True dat! That didn’t get by me either...
@@bandidobandicoot7496 xD aaaahahahahah ~! I chose the right one too.... Manual 97 Celica.
@@carronagringa hahaha okay let me rephrase, he married the right one in the US since most cars here are automatic.
@@carronagringa Indeed! 😍
The story of this car is great. I know for a FACT that German car factories also did similar things like renting(!) a brandnew Tesla S and reverse engineering it completely, then reassemble it and returning it to the rental car company. As if it never happened. So it's plausible that Volvo did the same with that e39.
Maybe they wanted the info for the engine/ECU development for the S60/V70?
So this dude is not only give you/charity the car, but he's also helping you fix it, that's a stand-up guy right there. 👍
He's looking for an intro to step-mom...
And he provided several refreshing cooling streams on a hot Florida day.
Where the car go after that ???
He probably gave it away to get a tax cut
@@Chris-hw4mq if he was just giving it away for a tax break I doubt he'd bother helping to fix it.
Good job, Sam. Spina Bifida of Jacksonville are good people doing great things.
Too bad y’all just sinking lol
@@THEREAL_GZUS wym they sinking
@@outtaroute92 the whole state is sinking
@@THEREAL_GZUS It might, it might not. Not in their lives anyway.
You should buy another bmw like this Tavarish!
👍 My 3 year old went through fetal surgery for Spina Bifida, allowing him to walk on his own now with a prior prognosis of being paralyzed waste down. Awesome cause your are supporting. You have my entry and my wife has shared it on a private spina bifida page for more traffic!
Bloke seems like a cool guy. Pretty cool background story for the car too
@Samcrac, The easiest way to get the bolts out is to get a well charged 12V battery, and a set of really heavy jumper cables.
1. Undo the ground cables off the engine.
2. Attach the jumper cables to the battery regularly.
3. Attach the negative of the 'car' end to the motor close to where the bolt you're trying to remove is located, but not to any mating surfaces as they can get marred.
4. Place the positive of the 'car' end of the jumper cables onto the bolt. Hold till it gets really hot. The bolt will get white hot if you let it. This is preferred.
5. While the bolt is still really hot, place a candle (any kind really, I use almost burnt up birthday candles) onto the stud as close to where it threads in as possible.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 2-3 more times.
7. Let cool.
8. When cool, work the stud back and forth a bit with vice grips. You'll feel it free up, then turn it out a bit more till it binds a bit again, and then work it back and forth some more. You should be able to spin it out pretty quickly after it frees up one turn.
9. Do the next one.
10. When all the bolts are out, crack a wobbly pop, and raise a toast not having to machine an engine inside the car.
The electricity breaks down the galvanic corrosion that's holding those bolts in, and frees them up. The heat expands the bolt more than the housing, causing the bolt to compress in the hot state, them shrink as it cools. I did that after I broke 3 trans pan bolts on grandma's car. Everyone of them came out really easily after that. It's a lot harder to read/write than to actually do.
My brother had spina bifida. He went to Jacksonville all the time for check ups. This is a great cause.
Alternating torch to heat the stud and surrounding material, then dry ice on the stud to shrink it down. Try to turn out the stud. Repeat until success or resigned to drilling.
23:30 - The Jamaican Priest is smart. he knows when to step in. Jah Bless
Bolt extraction: take a fullt charged car battery, connect the + to the stud the - to the block. Let the stud get red hot, i mean glowing hot, disconnect the battery, take a vice grip and it will come right out. I use this trick for broken of exhaust manifold bolts. Same problem, steel bolt aluminium block.
I just sold my 2002 530i 5-speed, what a great car. I still have a 1998 540i Stick, two 2000 528i’s (one auto one stick), and an 02 M5. The E39 is a phenomenal car, I’ve had like 20 of them at least. Glad they’re finally getting the respect they deserve but seeing that BaT listing makes me regret selling my 02 530i
Btw Sam the shift detent internal to the transmission is stuck, that’s why it’s defaulting to 5th if you push it forward from Neutral. The slop is of course from the shift bushings.
*edit* just got to that part lol
18:40 and that’s why the rockers rot!!
@@robertperillo8738 i was so suprised seeing a e39 sell for 18 grand, prob some fool that didnt know how much their actualy worth, 18 grand gets you a m5 in decent condition off facebook marketplace. just amazes me how much someone actually payed for that 5 series non m.
if you sold your e39 530 for around 5-8k you pretty much got what its worth, doesent go for any higher unless it has less then 50k miles with one previous owner history.
@@BmwMe-uh9sy it was very clean, 70k miles iirc that’s why it did so well but still 18k is insane. At least for now, but hey it’s where they’re headed. Look at E34s and E28s before it, super clean ones are high teens. And with the crazy inflation that’s been going on the last few months unfortunately I feel the days of sub 20k E39 M5s are just about over, unless it’s a high mileage one with issues. They’re slowly becoming unobtainable - E46s are creeping up now too. Hoard them while you can!
I was about to sell my 02 530i.... But watching this video is making me second guess myself haha.
I sort of want a 545i tho so I dunno. 😬
If the bolts are aluminum like you said, using heat is counter productive. Aluminum expands faster then steel. You could use liquid nitrogen or dry ice to cool down the bolt, spray more penetrant, and they should extract a little easier
When you go to look at a used car from a private seller, you hope and pray the entire drive over that he’s cool and meticulous about his toys like Alex is. 🤘🏻
what? except the car was full of water in the side, couldn't get into third and had holes drilled all over the engine bay? I'd be walking when i heard water.
@@sandycheeks7865 -- The car was free, FFS. Nobody gets shit fixed on a car they're giving away. Fixing that stuff is on the recipient.
Alas, it usually turns out otherwise.
@@twatmunro9563 the point being "meticulous about his toys" is not a statement I would apply to a guy who doesn't care that it won't change gear and is full of water.
Heat - Heat - Heat. Corrosion by two different metals is the culprit. Make sure you use never-seize on the bolts going back in. On the broken bolts. Make sure you drill straight. Would not use heli-coils but use the time sert. We use them on military tactical vehicles!!!
You guys manhandled that little trans!
So many jokes right here!
His stepmom would know a thing or two about being manhandled
@@og5782 yeah😭
Drill a hole down the middle of the bolt, then inject liquid nitrogen into the hole, this will freeze the bolt and shrink it down, if you can't get your hands on liquid nitrogen, then liquid butane (like from lighter recharge bottles) works pretty good as well, just make sure you do it in a well ventilated area and keep flames away, less you extract the bolt with a fireball.
Broken bolts - heat the shank to a high level, induction heaters are good for this; weld a nut on the end (or a bar like an old bolt at right angles). Gently tap it one way, then the other until it starts to move - do not use sheer force. If necessary use more heat then let it cool and so on until it breaks the corrosion bond. It will come out but patience is key. To my way of thinking saving the original thread is better than drilling/heli coiling which will not be accurate if done in situ.
Pretty much what i wrote 3 weeks later. We are on the same page. Helicoils imo are a last resort
In Europe, these 530i in great condition, satnav, massage seats, atc. are about 7000$, this one is about 2000-3000$.
Keep in mind a decent E39 (or any old BMW for that matter) is much harder to find in the states than they are in Europe.
@@Mitchell.Is.De.Naam. I realized that. It is same when I want some US car in Europe. Any US V8 cost here lot of money.
Unless its a M3 it does not cost 20k i found a manual one going for 3k
@@LAgarage1180 nah man m3 market is way higher than that.
@@Mitchell.Is.De.Naam. they are all around like camrys in the states. Not a manual but autos go from like $1500 to 3k. Good condition $5k. M3s like 15/20 for a super mint one
Great that Alex is getting into the repairs too. What a champ. You might think he was Canadian, he's so nice.
If the winner is local (or willing to drive back to Amelia next year) we will give them a free entry into Cars & Coffee at the Concours in 2022
My beautiful niece has Spina Bifida. Kudos to you, Sam.
re: bolts / studs, I'd love to see how an inductive bolt heater would work.
That interview with Alex was like an episode of of VinWiki. He's even got that deep Ed Bolian voice.
His voice is amazing haha been looking for this comment
Next time youre holding a transmission in the air, and the master wants to lecture you, ya just gotta stand there and take it.
Tip:-
Cut some threads on the broken stud, turn two nuts on it, then start turning the first (inner) nut anticlockwise.
Finally! You're the first comment with useful advice. All previous comments were fanboys.
Yeah I was also scrolling down for suggestions on removing the bolts/pins
Just weld a nut onto the stud , there’s plenty of stud left ... and the heat from welding it will make it free from the expanding ! How does everyone not know this already??
@@derekchauvinisahero2010 I guess the stud is aluminium
@@derekchauvinisahero2010 cut people some slack not everyone is as woke as you
The gentleman who helped you get transmission of the car would be fascinating to learn more about. Please consider interviewing him.
He was in Sam’s i8 series twice. He showed Sam his smart car.
This is the content we all know and love.. welcome back samcrac
Heat is your friend! Rosebud tip on an Oxy-Acetylene torch will expand the aluminum and break tension holding those bolts.
👍
Rosebud tip is kinda over kill for that small of bolts
@@Max-me9xq not if you want them out.
I bought a new 2001 E39 530 sport, manual transmission, the first year they came out. Mine was Orient Blue, grey interior. Options were comfort seats, and rear window shades. I got my 530 the first year the new 3.0 liter engine came out. My wife had a 2000 528 sport, with a manual transmission. Sold my 530 around 2008, I needed more room, so I got a Volvo V70R. It was just an awesome car, super smooth ride but cornered great. Great to see another 530 after so many years!
Good video and it’s good that it’s going towards a good cause. As far as the $20k evaluation, I think that’s very wishful thinking. That car is worth $7k at best to the right bmw enthusiast but to the average person probably more like $4-5k.
My grandma died from spina bifida, don't have much money but donated $20 to help the young man. 🙏
Happy to have bought a ticket! Glad to see all of the people coming together to help such a good cause.
Thank you so much
How are those rockers not rotted out with all of that water in there? Crazy!! Love that you're doing the raffle for such a great cause!
My E39 doesn't have the problem of the sills filling with water.
.
.
The water just flows out of the rust holes.
@@misterchow best comment here :))
Maybe because fresh water and not salt water.🤷♂️
@@stevelozano9523 "Fresh" water doesn't cause steel to rust, now? Must be a new type of water.
@@nickturner2813 👍👍👍
23:15 that's some carribean experience right there! =)
They give you a free car. Obviously they are hoping for a meet and greet with your step Mom.
It's the least he should do
My 2 cents on removing the stuck studs. Being from Minnesota, where we have major rust, I would start by spraying it with pb blaster or home made rust penetrant. Reapply often for several days if possible, or at least overnight. Try to remove but be careful not to break. I like impacts, but be careful not to give it to much if you have a high torque impact. Next heat. Studs almost red hot an slow to cool. The heat and the cooling will free some of the rust. Be careful not to apply to mush heat to the aluminum housings. Multiple cycles of heat and penetrant if needed. Next step is a high torque impact. The impact will work better than a breaker bar in freeing the stuck stud. Now if you break a stud. Carbide bits for Dremel or drills works best on harden steel. You can use a bolt with a hole drilled in the center of it if the stud breaks off deep in the hole as a guide to not damage a hole.
Bought my tickets! I have missed my E39 ever since I sold it! Very similar spec minus the manual
Broken/Seized Bolts Tip - Heat and wax. If you heat the area in the housing around the broken bolt and then press a crayon or candle to the treads the heat will pull the wax into the treads and with your extractor it should come out easily. This works like a champ with rusty nuts and bolts. I haven’t tried it with aluminum bolts seized in an iron block but it’s easy enough to try.
What a great way to flip this for an amazing cause! Everyone involved make the world a better place! God bless all of you...
Amazing car. I had a 530i SE Manual (in the UK). I bought it at 6 yrs old with 120k miles on the clock, for £3500 and sold it for £2500 a year later. Silky smooth engine and built like a tank. Wish i'd kept it. Enjoy!
2:02 W166 poking out to say hi, looks exactly like mine!
Awesome! I got to donate to a wonderful cause.. 100% that is great.. I sometimes think - you is a good guy - Samcrac! LOL!... BTW, if I'm the fortunate one, I will keep it as original as I get it... very interesting story behind this car. Looking forward to the rest of the build.
E39 Owner, that much water is getting in from above. Vapour barriers in the doors are notorious for leaking and the water tracks onto the tread plate area (where you have the Door Sill Protectors) where water gets into those sills(UK)/Rockers(US) and with the way the water tracks it fills the foot wells up with water too. I actually did a video as I kept getting water in those areas to see how it tracked, the rear doors are more than likely the culprit.
E39 Owner, 530i, 5 speed, sport package; what you said is so true. One of my door cards in the rear became soft due to this issue. Seal the barrier properly and all should be good.
LOVE that you re helping a GREAT charity and doing the work, showing you are blessed and can pass that on
Those holes are from when Volvo installed thermocouples for their testing
Exactly what I was thinking!
Trying to figure out who was cheating on emissions.
Shouldn't they have been plugged up afterwards?
@@pfsantos007 Perhaps, but my money is on revers engineering on BMWs smog control.
Thanks for the great plug for Carly. Finally pushed me over to get one.
Amazing video and excited, but please please please don’t helicoil, you could tap it and make inserts that are 10x more reliable than helicoils. When you go to take that trans out again after using helicoils it is going to be a doosey and you’re prob gonna have to tap and insert new threads anyways
THE BEAT WHEN YOU GUYS ARE DROPPING THE EXHAUST IS A BANGER! ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO SAM ;)
24:56 Bro drinkin the malt liquor on the job 😂😂😂 Respect
What is there to respect about a guy getting drunk while working in a mechanic shop?
I like the previous owner coming in to watch. Kind of like "this old car" where someone comes in and fixes problems they've been struggling with. You should do more videos like that where you help people diagnose their inexplicable car problems.
Alex , seems like a really nice guy , I’d really like to the whole story about the car and what it went through at Volvo , love this 5 series my favorite body style
Its probably a made up story, why on earth would they IMPORT that car from the US to Sweden just to "analyze emissions". There are plenty of those kind of cars in Sweden.. no need to import one.
@@slonkijippie Different emissions laws between EU and US? I'm not sure if there were any real differences back then, but it could make sense.
I bet that whole car has been torn down and benchmarked if it was at Volvo.
@@slonkijippie Because mr knowitall the euro cars don't have US emissions equipment. Entirely different from euro spec cars in that department.
If you want a e39 with a manual, no sunroof. I can ship as many as you want.
Europe is flooded with them.
How many you want? It's 5k usd shipped to the usa.
I like these Eurocharger guys, they are always fun, especially that old dude with his accent :D
Weld on a nut, for the flush broken studs use a center punch-drill 1/16 no more than 3/16 depth a washer bigger than the bolt. A nut same size or equal to it and tack it in let cool finish welding the hole to nut. Old school tricks I've learned done it many times on intake and exhaust studs and there's a few TH-cam videos of old timers doing this trick also
Wow. That cuts deep. My father's deceased fiance had spinal bifida.
Raffle tickets purchased. Thanks so much for donating to a great cause! You rock, Sam!!
Rasta to the rescue 💪🏾
If you look at the TH-cam videos of flying Wheels.... Kinda makes me feel like that's his brother lol
@@hacatan24 That was my first thought as well 😊
Heat stud and use your tool to extract. If it snaps then progressively drill out bolt to point of most of bolt gone. Use a good pick or screw driver to remove what is left. Chase with correct size tap. I had to do this hundreds of times while removing broken off exhaust studs on Jeep exhaust manifold recalls. The factory was very generous with allowing all of .3ths of a hour to do this. Most of the time it was the rear bolt near the firewall!
Hello I have an E39 as well only different, mine is an M5 ESS superchargerd.. I have all the original parts as well
You can do a plethora of things. An old shop trick my mentor taught me for stripped studs/bolts was put a grinder to the top and make it a deep, straight line. From there use a tool with the proper attachment (impact and I’ve seen him use an air tool) and the stud/bolt will come out. Otherwise, flatten either side on the top of the stud so you get 2 flat places to put vice grips on. Heat + vice grips + some cursing while tugging at it should do the trick. The trick in the first place was to slightly lift the trans and use some ATF+acetone the bolts
This is so awesome!!
It actually is. To catch a reversed engineered car from a competitor out in the wild must be pretty rare.
your awesome randy
@@yohanceh7862 thank you 😊
Fake Randy. Please stop pretending to be someone else's account. We can all see you're not verified.
@@sourwords1808 bro click on his acc its the real one
Use an induction heater on the broken bolts and then pipe wrench as the harder you turn it the tighter it grips (we often call them Stilson wrenches over here in the UK). Or weld on a nut if there is thread as the heat from welding helps break the corrosion and the nut can turn the bolt.
"No wood.... not a good job!" that was what she said!
Cleaning the snapped off bolt up really well, and then welding a nut onto it serves two purposes:
1) Get's a good amount of heat into the bolt to help un-seize it from the aluminium casting
2) Gives a good grip to get a socket and ratchet/breaker bar on to loosen it
The Volvo story sounds pretty credible. Volvo currently have the only registered Tesla Model Y in Sweden at the moment (it's not sold in Europe yet), for exactly that purpose.
So Volvo have a model y to figure out how Tesla are doing the emissions? Right ....
@@frankcastle5341 Not emissions, obviously. But for studying competing products, clearly.
@@masterzedric so not 'exactly that purpose' then.
ARP Studs for install. Usually I hit the head of bolt with a hammer some to shock it, and possibly break any corrosion, then turn it to remove. Heat also has always been the stand by.
Ill be spending $680 tonight on 48 raffle tickets. Definitely love this car and want to see it go to a good home. And I'll donate to ant good cause to be able to drive this
Also weld nuts onto the broken off bolts. The heat will allow them to free up and come out. It might take a couple tries but it works.
Why not weld sockets or nuts on those etorx bolts? The heat alone would have prob broken then free
He said they bolts are made from aluminum!
@@rks9612 then tig em on
Hi Sam,
What lubricant did you use?
Try PB Blaster and let it sit. When the bolt begins to move, tighten it slightly then loosen it again.
PB Blaster again and let sit a few minutes, then tighten and loosen again.
Repeat until the bolt starts to remove easier - go slow, and maybe PB Blaster a few more times while removing.
Of course heat works wonders.
BTW, You might want to put some light oil or WD40 down the window openings to help protect where the water accumulated. Drain the light oil and reinstall the plugs.
Regards,
Alex is a real champ
The look on Shane's face when Sam had the sawzall in the engine was priceless. LOL
Yeah Man
Rastaman ✊🏾🇯🇲🇪🇹
Finally the E39 gets some love on this channel! I'm so happy to drive my manual Sienarot Metallic 2 525i!
Customer states: “My car sounds like the ocean!”
I have always good good luck heating the bolt and welding a bigger nut onto the bolt, the heat form welding will heat the bolt up and the bigger nut gives you more torque
Hey man, I have a detailing business in the area, I’d love to be a part of the project and get the e39 refreshed and protected! Let me know!!
E mail him
Couldn’t even acknowledge this guys offer !!!
We were able to get in touch!
Use the Welded nut onto the stud (whatever is left of it) and give it a turn back and forth and see if it will loosen up. I have had good success with stuck bolts using this method - it works better with steel bolt stuck in cast aluminum than steel bolt stuck in cast iron.
23:15 I wonder if that's German's cousin from flying Wheels lol
That was my first thought as well. German's cousin Jamaican 😉
It has to be
We need more guys like that. Awesome dude, giving away a car and Sam fixing it up for charity 👍
20k? Don’t believe it. You can find lower mileage examples of these cars in Germany starting from about 3k.
hes selling in us, not eu
@@BmwMe-uh9sy no I know, as a European, this seems to me like a bit of a scam. Idk maybe they really are worth that much in America
Definitely TEAM WORK got that Trans out ! Hope all the rest of the broken bolts come out just fine.
17:56 Sounds like a good beat for a song LMAO 😂
Heat then quench with atf repeat a few times. You can spray penitent before the next heat cycle the heat will draw it in before burning it off clearing the path for atf to reach deeper.
That Jamaican dude is a boss!..I knew that when he laughed at you on that I8.
Naw hes just a scam artist.
@@frontspring1 what makes you say he’s a scam artist? Every video he’s in he is very friendly and helpful.
Heat the case with a torch and cool the shank with the liquid from canned air duster (Use a bit of tin foil or paper to direct the liquid to cool only the shank). Use a pipe wrench or some other positive grip wrench.
Nearly $20k? This guy will get a heart attack seeing this 😂😂
Heat is the easiest if possible. You may have to shield areas from flame. Use oxy-acetylene torch. Much hotter. But don't melt aluminum. The stud extractors work great, but when threads are galled you need to turn it back and forth. Weld a nut to the stud. Let it cool off before turning. Then apply the heat to the threaded area. Good luck and God Bless!
The mystic Rasta Guru has returned.
Complete CCV replacements are common necessities of maintanance repait. Use qualitt parts is my suggestion. Also a general coolant system refresh to inclyde some of the plastic coolant parts. Also normal maintanance repairs. There will be upto 5 areas of the secondary air pump syste of which any 1 to all 5 areas of that system. Also normal. Valve cover and gasket replacement or if lucky, atleast the gasket set. When you replace the CCV system, do it with the intake off. While it is off, clean the oil dip stick tube completly as it will have moisture (water) mixed in the oil. Also normal. Oh... Don't forget to verify the DISA valve is fully functional while you have it out.
130k miles, stick shift e39… that’s a lot of money he’s giving away.
They're only a few thousand over here in Europe. Can't believe how much more they go for in the US.
@@aqa321 yeah for real 😂 found a bunk of them for like 1-2k euro
@@weavingshroud hunded of then 😂😂😂😂
Good job Sam and kudos to Alex for donating that car. I hope it goes to someone who appreciates and takes care of it. Sam, instead of trying to get those broken bolts out, get a set of helicoils and drill every one of them out and install the helicoils in every hole. Use conventional hex head bolts with antisieze and the new owner won't have the same nightmare when it comes time for the next clutch change. You might have to enlarge a hole or two in the bellhousing if any of the bolt holes aren't drilled exactly true.
20k for a normal E39? wth they are supeer cheap in Germany
Sup Jerri, What's the best forums to buy one from europe for export? Thank you.
Nah that cars worth 5-7k max in the states even with the story. It’s just a 530 with some crappy aftermarket stuff 😂
@@jackpatterson20 looks clean n all but not worth 20k lmao
Time-Serts are great! I used one on a n20 with stripped female threads for the oil drain plug. They’re are expensive kits but well worth it.
His wife daily drives manual BMW
My sister daily drives a manual type r
A e39 Was the first car i bought, the best car i ever owned, allways worked Was great to drive comfortable and sporty and looks that still turn my head after years and years
18000$ or 20000$ for an old e39 😂🤣,maybe 1500€ to a full spec M5 e39 10000€ but the price you say made me 🤪😜😅🤣,that 3 series is more expensive but still not 18-20k ...
right, i was like whos gonna pay 20 grand for that... heck, even a e92 m3 is going for that much used.