Thank you everyone for your nice comments. I just answered some of the questions. Sorry I neglected this video for so long! This model began as simply an experiment to see what paper modeling was like. After a while, I was amazed at how nice the model was turning out, and this motivated me to do more with it. I had never intended to finish the model, but it was so enjoyable that I continued. I took the completed model to ship model conferences and the most common question I heard was "what kind of wood did you use?" The second most common question I heard was "This is PAPER???" I hope more people will try these kits. It takes some effort, but it also gives you a lot of opportunity to make something fun and interesting.
Выкройки от "Shipyard" очень точные . Я сам пользовался ими , но не оригинальными , а ксерокопиями . Потому приходилось окрашивать все детали акрилом . Палубы делал из листов шпона . Собрал "яхту для отдыха" и двухмачтовый "Granado" . Думаю попробовать трёхмачтовый "Belona" , детали которлго я увеличил с А4 на А3 , т.к. там очень много мелких дельных вещей . Слышал , что бумажные выкройки деталей переводят на фанеру и шпон и собирают уже полностью деревянные модели . Спасибо за видео и пояснения в коментариях . Очень полезно .
I’m in the same business and for the paper parts I always use the white Kittifix, a German product. Beware: they also make a colourless version, but that one is less suitable for paper.
I built this model using mostly ordinary yellow wood glue. I tried other glues, but found that this works pretty well. However, I used other glues as well, depending on the specific purpose. For instance, to laminate sheets of paper together to build-up the thickness of parts, I used 3M spray adhesive. Since it contains no water, it is less likely to cause a distortion of the paper. When I am working with very delicate parts, I have found that touching it with thin Cyanoacrylate glue (CYA or super glue) - the paper will soak up the glue and become stiff, like plastic. This makes it easier to cut sharp edges. Also, I can work with the piece with less concern about ruining the piece. I can also carve the CYA treated paper , since it is like plastic.
The laser-cut framework is a heavy card stock. It is heavier than the paper used for the parts and the laser-cutting is PERFECT. Everything fits together so nicely, and in a very short time, you have a complete framework for the model that is pretty sturdy. Sorry we didn't answer you sooner! As for the paper format for the printed parts, the parts are mostly on large sheets of glossy heavy paper. For parts that are not visible on the final model, simple blank and white print on generally thinner stock is provided - similar to printer paper.
It's probably about as difficult as a wooden model kit, except you don't need as many tools as a wooden kit, and you don't make a mess. There is no wood dust! You can do this on the kitchen table without making your spouse upset. It just all paper and a little glue. The most difficulty is that there are a LOT of little parts to cut, so it takes time. I used brass cannon barrels and wooden blocks, which saved some time and look very nice. The more time you spend on the model and the more careful you are, the nicer the model will turn out. But, if you are in a bit of a rush, you can still build the model, but it may not look as nice. In that sense, the model is not difficult, but getting the nicest results is more difficult.
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I just bought this model as a gift for myself for christmas. It will be my first model build, i'm super excited! :)
Good job! Very nice vessel too!
Beautifully done
That is awesome!!!!!
Thank you everyone for your nice comments. I just answered some of the questions. Sorry I neglected this video for so long!
This model began as simply an experiment to see what paper modeling was like. After a while, I was amazed at how nice the model was turning out, and this motivated me to do more with it.
I had never intended to finish the model, but it was so enjoyable that I continued. I took the completed model to ship model conferences and the most common question I heard was "what kind of wood did you use?" The second most common question I heard was "This is PAPER???"
I hope more people will try these kits. It takes some effort, but it also gives you a lot of opportunity to make something fun and interesting.
Выкройки от "Shipyard" очень точные . Я сам пользовался ими , но не оригинальными , а ксерокопиями . Потому приходилось окрашивать все детали акрилом . Палубы делал из листов шпона . Собрал "яхту для отдыха" и двухмачтовый "Granado" . Думаю попробовать трёхмачтовый "Belona" , детали которлго я увеличил с А4 на А3 , т.к. там очень много мелких дельных вещей .
Слышал , что бумажные выкройки деталей переводят на фанеру и шпон и собирают уже полностью деревянные модели .
Спасибо за видео и пояснения в коментариях . Очень полезно .
NICE, i make Hikawa Maru ship and my big brother is Antarctic Observation Ship "Soya"
Помню такие кораблики собирал, шпангоуты приходилось переводить через копирку и вручную ножницами вырезать)) А сейчас - все на лазерном станке...
Да, сегодня это намного проще!
very good model turned out
Bravo
What adhesive are you using
I’m in the same business and for the paper parts I always use the white Kittifix, a German product. Beware: they also make a colourless version, but that one is less suitable for paper.
I built this model using mostly ordinary yellow wood glue. I tried other glues, but found that this works pretty well. However, I used other glues as well, depending on the specific purpose. For instance, to laminate sheets of paper together to build-up the thickness of parts, I used 3M spray adhesive. Since it contains no water, it is less likely to cause a distortion of the paper. When I am working with very delicate parts, I have found that touching it with thin Cyanoacrylate glue (CYA or super glue) - the paper will soak up the glue and become stiff, like plastic. This makes it easier to cut sharp edges. Also, I can work with the piece with less concern about ruining the piece. I can also carve the CYA treated paper , since it is like plastic.
Еxcellent work !
Еxcellent! what type of paper format for printed parts and what kind material for laser cut framework(or just material for framework)?
Thanaphol Chumkhammool I hope they reply to you! I’d love to move on from plastic kits.. I’m hoping they come in booklets?!
The laser-cut framework is a heavy card stock. It is heavier than the paper used for the parts and the laser-cutting is PERFECT. Everything fits together so nicely, and in a very short time, you have a complete framework for the model that is pretty sturdy. Sorry we didn't answer you sooner!
As for the paper format for the printed parts, the parts are mostly on large sheets of glossy heavy paper. For parts that are not visible on the final model, simple blank and white print on generally thinner stock is provided - similar to printer paper.
I tried a paper model kit from temu and I gave up, I guess wood is much easier than paper or the temu kit is on the wrong paper or something
build this model difficult?
It's probably about as difficult as a wooden model kit, except you don't need as many tools as a wooden kit, and you don't make a mess. There is no wood dust! You can do this on the kitchen table without making your spouse upset. It just all paper and a little glue.
The most difficulty is that there are a LOT of little parts to cut, so it takes time.
I used brass cannon barrels and wooden blocks, which saved some time and look very nice.
The more time you spend on the model and the more careful you are, the nicer the model will turn out. But, if you are in a bit of a rush, you can still build the model, but it may not look as nice. In that sense, the model is not difficult, but getting the nicest results is more difficult.
Это дерево? Я нашел в интернете эту модель, но она продается частями с журналами.